Cathedral (Pl. E, 5; visible from the sea), begun by the Norman Roger I. with materials from the ancient theatre (p. 161), but almost entirely destroyed by the earthquake of 1169. In the choir repose the Aragon sovereigns of the 14th cent.; in the right side-apse are treasured the remains of St. Agatha, who, like St. Rosalia (p. 152), was one of the most famous saints of Sicily, and whose veil is said to have diverted the lava-stream of 1669 (Pl. B, 1–3) from the city at a point near the Benedictine monastery (see below). Opposite, on the right, is the monument of the viceroy Acuña (d. 1494), quite Spanish in style. By the second pillar on the right is the tomb of Vinc. Bellini, the composer, a native of Catania (1802–35).
In the Piazza del Duomo rises a fountain with an antique elephant in lava, bearing an Egyptian obelisk of granite. Past its N. side runs the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, with the Piazza dei Martiri and the statue of St. Agatha at its E. end (Pl. G, 5). We follow the Corso to the W. to the Via Sant’Agostino, by the church of that name (Pl. D, 5), and here turn to the N. past the entirely altered Roman Odeum (comp. p. 349) to the Via del Teatro Greco. Here, near the corner on the right, at No. 37, is the entrance to the—
Ancient Theatre (Pl. D, 4, 5; custodian at No. 33; fee 50 c.), once a fine structure, but now so buried in lava that some parts of it can be explored only by candle-light. The foundations alone date from the Greek period.—In the Piazza Dante, a little to the N.W., is the suppressed Benedictine monastery of—
San Nicolò (Pl. C, D, 4), or San Benedetto, dating in its present form from the early 18th cent., with an imposing baroque church. The extensive buildings now contain barracks, a school, the civic museum, the library, and the observatory. The church-tower (entr. through the portal to the S. of the façade; gratuity) commands a panoramic *View of the town, Mt. Ætna, and the Sicilian and Calabrian coasts, which is finest before 9 a.m.
At the Piazza Dante begins the Via Lincoln (Pl. D-F, 4), the second great thoroughfare of the town running W. to E., partly hewn through the lava-stream of 1669. This street is crossed by the—
Via Stesicoro Etnea (Pl. E, 5–1), which intersects the whole town, from the Piazza del Duomo (see above) to the N. end. Here rise the chief public buildings of Catania, the Municipio (Pl. E, 5), the University, and the Prefettura (Pl. E, 4).
Farther to the N. is the Piazza Stesicoro; on its left side is the church of San Cárcere (Pl. E, 3), with an interesting Norman portal brought from the cathedral. Close by the N. part of a Roman Amphitheatre has been laid bare (greater diameter 138, smaller 116 yds.); the unusually large arena (77 by 55 yds.) is second only to that of the Colosseum (94 by 59 yds.).
Still farther to the N., on the left, is the entrance to the Villa Bellini (Pl. E, 2), a public park with fine views.
After returning to the Porto Vecchio we may follow the Via Scuto to the picturesque Castello Ursino (Pl. D, 6), dating from the time of Emp. Frederick II. (after 1239). The quarter to the E. of the castle is almost the only relic of the old town.
On the Voyage to Syracuse the steamer proceeds to the S.E. at some distance from the Piana di Catania (p. 159), affording a splendid view astern of Mt. Ætna, and passes Capo Campolato, Capo Santa Croce (p. 159), and the Bay of Megara.
As we enter the Bay of Syracuse, bounded on the N. by the plateau of Capo Santa Panagia (p. 159), and on the S.E. by the low Penisola della Maddalena (177 ft.), the ancient Plemmyrion, we obtain an excellent idea of the site of the present island-city, and of the vast extent of the ancient city on the mainland to the N.W., stretching up the hill to the village of Belvedere (p. 166).
The entrance to the inner bay of the Porto Grande, now much choked with sand, between the lighthouse at the end of the island and that of the peninsula, behind the cliff of La Galera, is only 1312 yds. across. In the swampy and in summer malarious plain on the W. bank of the harbour are the mouths of the rivers Anăpo and Ciani, the ancient Anapos and Kyane.
Syracuse.—Arrival by Sea. The steamers anchor near the landing-place at the Porta Marina (Scalo; comp. Map). Landing or embarkation 50 c., with baggage 1 fr.
Railway Stations. The Central Station (Stazione, see Map) is on the Floridia road (p. 165), 1 M. to the N.W. of the town. The expresses run down to the Stazione Porto.
Hotels (advisable to ask charges beforehand). *Grand-Hôt. Villa Politi (V. P. on the Map), on the mainland, near and in the Latomia dei Cappuccini (p. 165), with beautiful garden and fine views, R. 4–8, B. 1½, déj. 3½, D. 5, pens. 10–16, omn. 1½ fr; *Hôt. des Etrangers (formerly Casa Politi), near the Arethusa Fountain, similar charges; *Grand-Hôtel, Piazza Mazzini, close to the busy harbour, similar charges.—Second-class: Alb. Roma, Via Roma 64, R. 1¾–3 fr., well spoken of; Alb. Firenze, Via Roma 73, R. from 1½ fr; Alb. Cavour, Via Savoia, behind the Dogana, R. 1½–3 fr.; these three with restaurants (Ital. cuisine).
Café. Croce di Savoia, Piazza del Duomo.
Cabs. (Night fares from ½ hr. after sunset till sunrise. Fares should be ascertained before starting.) Per drive in the town (incl. harbour-station) 40 c., with pair 1 fr., at night 70 c. or 1½ fr.; to or from chief station 65 c. or 1½ fr., at night 90 c. or 1 fr. 90 c. (luggage over 25 kilos or 55 lbs. 25, over 50 kilos or 1 cwt. 50 c.); first hour 1½ or 2½ fr., each addit. ½ hr. 60 c. or 1½ fr.—For a long drive it is best to choose one’s own vehicle in the Piazza del Duomo. For an afternoon (noon till ½ hr. after sundown) 5 or 10 fr., whole day 10 or 20 fr. Cheaper fares may generally be agreed upon out of the season.
Steamboat Agents.—Società Nazionale, Via Ruggiero Settimo 38, close to the Dogana; Hungarian Adria Co., also Lloyd’s Agents, Gaet. Bozzanca & Figlio.
British Vice-Consul, Joseph Lobb.—Post & Telegraph Office, Via Roma.
English Church Service in winter.
One Day. The chief sights in the modern town are the Cathedral, the Museum, and the Arethusa Fountain (p. 164). The greater part of the day should be devoted to the ancient town. The most interesting places there (the Euryelus excepted) may be visited by carriage in 3–4 hrs.: Latomia dei Cappuccini (p. 165), Catacombs of San Giovanni (p. 165), Amphitheatre (p. 166), Hiero’s Altar (p. 166), Greek Theatre (p. 166; best towards sunset for the sake of the view). Walkers should ferry direct from the Prigioni in the town to the N. bank of the Porto Piccolo (10 c.).
Syracuse, Ital. Siracusa, the most populous town in Sicily in ancient times, and indeed the most important of all the Hellenic cities, now a mere shadow of its glorious past, with 27,000 inhab. only, lies on an island separated from the mainland by a narrow strait. It was founded under the name of Syracusae by Corinthians, in 734 B. C., on the island then called Ortygia, where a Phœnician settlement had perhaps already existed. Endless party conflicts between the nobles and the townspeople led in 485 to the intervention of the tyrant Gelon of Gela, who made Syracuse his residence. In alliance with Theron of Acragas (Girgenti) he defeated the Carthaginians at the battle of Himera in 480, the same year in which the victory of Salamis (p. 506) saved the mother-country from destruction. The Syracusans thereafter gradually extended their sway over the greater part of Sicily till the year 415 when to their dismay the Athenians, instigated by Alcibiades, intervened in Sicilian politics, and with the aid of the neighbouring towns of Catana and Leontinoi (p. 159) proceeded to besiege the city. In 413 the might of Athens was for ever shattered before the walls of Syracuse, but the dread of being attacked anew by the Carthaginians induced the Syracusans to entrust their government to the tyrant Dionysius I. (406–367), next to the Persian monarchs the most powerful prince of his age, who refortified and embellished the city. The tyrant Agathocles (317–289) conducted a brilliant expedition against Carthage, but without permanent success. The last phase of the glory of Syracuse was witnessed in the long reign of Hiero II. (275–216). As the Syracusans, after his death, allied themselves with Hannibal, their city was besieged by Marcellus in 214–212, and after its capture was sacked and destroyed. Since then it has never again taken any part in political life, but in spite of its downfall it is still one of the most interesting places in the whole of Sicily, while the beauty of its environs is hardly less fascinating than the monuments of its glorious past.
a. The Modern Town.
From the harbour-station (p. 162) the broad Corso Umberto Primo (p. 165) crosses the strait to the island on which lies the Modern Town, whose narrow winding streets are still of mediæval type. A pleasant walk, with a view of Mt. Ætna, is by the Foro Vittorio Emanuele Secondo and Passeggio Aretusa, leading from the Piazza Mazzini and the landing-place (p. 162) along the harbour.
In the grounds at the S. end of the promenade is a statue of the famous mathematician Archimedes, who defended his native city against Marcellus. Near it is the Fontana Aretusa, enclosed by papyrus-shrubs. From this point the Via Maniace leads to the S.E. to the Castello Maniace, a Hohenstaufen castle at the S. end of the island, completed under Emp. Frederick II. in 1239, but now modernized. To the N. of the Fontana lies the Piazza del Duomo.
The Cathedral is built into a Doric temple, probably of Minerva, the beauty of which was extolled by Cicero in his oration against Verres (p. 157). It stood on a basement of three steps, about 61 yds. long and 24 yds. broad. The ancient columns with their entablature still project on the N. side, and in the interior nineteen columns also are visible.
The Archæological Museum, opposite the cathedral, to the N.W., contains valuable antiquities, mostly Sicilian, from the earliest ages down to the Christian period. Adm. on week-days, Oct.–June 9–3, July-Sept. 8–2, 1 fr.; Sun. (not all rooms accessible) 10–2, free.
Ground Floor. In Room I, Early-Christian inscriptions and the sarcophagus of Adelfia (5th cent.) from the catacombs of San Giovanni (p. 165). In Rooms III-V, Greek inscriptions, sarcophagi, cinerary urns, and architectural fragments. Room VI. Earthenware sarcophagi from Gela (6–5th cent. B. C.), Hellenistic and Roman sculptures. Room VII. Chiefly Greek sculptures. In Room VIII, a fine Venus Anadyomene (Hellenistic).
The Staircase and First Floor (Rooms XI and XVII-XIX) contain the ancient historical collection, showing the progress of Sicilian culture from the pre-Greek period (from the 15th cent.) down to the 5th cent. B. C.—Rooms XII, XIII. Greek vases from Sicily and Lower Italy, archaic bronzes and coins from ancient Sicily. Rooms XIV-XVI. Terracottas.
The mediæval and modern collections of the Museum are to be transferred to the Palazzo Bellomo, a building of the 15th cent., in the Via Capodieci running to the E. from the Fontana Aretusa.
The Via Cavour leads to the N. from the Piazza del Duomo to the Via Diana, where on the left are the ruins of the so-called Temple of Diana (keys at the barber’s opposite; fee 30 c.), but now believed to have been dedicated to Apollo. This is one of the most curious of Greek temples. In front stood two rows of six columns each. The side-walls were of unusual length and were each probably flanked by nineteen columns.
b. The Ancient City.
Long before the Athenian campaign (p. 163) Ancient Syracuse had extended her boundaries far beyond her island of Ortygia and across the high plateau to the N. to the bay of Trogilos and the present tonnara near Cape Santa Panagia (p. 159). The earliest extension consisted in the Achradina, the smaller half of which lay between the great harbour and the plateau, while the larger half occupied the E. margin of the latter, and was enclosed by a wall whose ruins still exist. Adjoining the Achradina on the W. were the Neapolis, or new city, on a terrace above the great harbour, and the quarter named Tyche after a temple of the goddess of Fortune. The Epipolae, the fifth and highest quarter, on the W. side of the plateau, was the chief base of the Athenian besiegers; but it was only completed after Dionysius I. had (about 402–385) enclosed the entire half of the plateau stretching from the Achradina wall westwards, with a huge city-wall, and had built the fortress of Euryelus at its W. end. The circumference of the city, which however embraced a good deal of unoccupied land, was thus no less than 17 M. Of the enclosing wall 10½ M. still exist.
We begin with the Achradina. The Corso Umberto Primo (p. 163), the main street of the new suburb on the mainland, leads in 10 min. to a round piazza whence radiate the Floridia road, passing the central station, and the Catania and Noto roads. The remains of columns on the drilling-ground between this piazza and the small harbour probably belonged to a superb Agora or market-place.
From this point we follow the Catania road to the N., whence an avenue soon diverges to the right to the Porto Piccolo (ferry, see p. 163), now choked with sand, and leads along the shore, below the suburb of Santa Lucia, and across a railway cutting, to (25 min.) the Capuchin Monastery (now a poor-house). Close by, on the right, is the entrance to the—
*Latomía dei Cappuccino (adm. 30 c.), one of the wildest and grandest of the old quarries of Syracuse, now clothed with rich vegetation. It was here probably that the 7000 Athenian prisoners of war languished in 413 B. C.
Following the road to the W. we skirt the plateau and pass the Cimitero to (10 min.) the road coming from the upper Achradina, and go on by a cart-road, whence, by the Latomia del Casale, we see the Catania road before us and the church of San Giovanni below, on the left.
San Giovanni occupies the W. part of an old Norman basilica; steps in the N.E. corner lead to the crypt of St. Marcian (4th cent.). A monk, who shows the church also if desired (fee ½–l fr.; ring, on the S. side, door to the E. of the vestibule), conducts us to the—
*Catacombs of San Giovanni, which like most of the catacombs of Syracuse and its environs, far surpass those of Rome in extent. The main passage of this great burial-place (4–7th cent. A. D.), 10 ft. high and 6 ft. wide, runs through the rock from W. to E. for 116 yds., and from it diverge short lateral passages ending in circular chambers. Of the mural decoration little is now left.
A little farther to the W. we cross the Catania road to the region of Neapolis, and follow the road leading to the Greek theatre. To the left, in 5 min., we reach the house of the custodian (½ fr.) of the Roman—
Amphitheatre, constructed in the time of Augustus, 153 by 130 yds. in area. In the arena lie many blocks of the marble parapet belonging to a restoration of the 3rd century.
About 120 yds. farther to the W. is the entrance, also on the left, to the great Altar of Hiero II. (30–50 c.). On this vast altar, 219 yds. long and 25 yds. broad and originally rising in two huge steps to a height of 34½ ft., were probably sacrificed the annual hecatombs of 450 bulls in memory of the expulsion of the tyrant Thrasybulus (466).
Opposite we see the Latomia del Paradiso, an ancient quarry 95–130 ft. deep, so-named from the most luxuriant vegetation which now clothes it (entrance through the gateway on the left). In its W. slope is the so-called Ear of Dionysius (entrance below, on the left), an S-shaped cavern, 71 yds. deep, 6–12 yds. wide, and 76 ft. high, tapering at the top, with remarkable acoustic properties. As the tyrant is said to have had prisons where from a certain spot he could hear every whisper, the tradition has been arbitrarily associated with this cavern.
The road next passes under the modern arches of the aqueduct and reaches, on the right, the *Greek Theatre (5th cent. B. C.), one of the largest in the Hellenic world. It is hewn in the rock, forming more than a semicircle. Its diameter is 147 yds.; 46 tiers of seats are still preserved; the eleven lower rows were covered with marble. Towards sunset we have a delightful *View of the town, the Porto Grande, the headland of Plemmyrion, and the sea.
Above the theatre is the so-called Nymphaeum, a grotto into which the aqueduct (see below) was led. On its left side the Via delle Tombe, hewn in the rock, ascends in a curve for 165 yds., with many lateral cuttings and tomb-chambers of the late-Roman age.
From the Catania road, ¼ M. to the N. of the branch-road to the Greek theatre, diverges to the left the New Euryelus Road, 3 M. long. It leads to the W., soon passing the Casa dei Gesuiti, to which walkers may ascend direct from the Nymphæum. It runs parallel with an Ancient Aqueduct (‘Acquedotto Galermi’), crosses the desolate plateau, very hot in summer, once the site of the Greek Neapolis and of Epipolae (p. 165), and joins the old Euryelus road beyond the S. wall of Dionysius I. A little farther, where the road diverges to the left to the village of Belvedere and the Posto Semafórico or Telégrafo (617 ft.; fine view), is the Casa dei Viaggiatori (rfmts.; open from 15th Jan. to 15th May). Our road ends on the W. side of Euryelus, 130 yds. from the custodian’s house.
The *Euryelus (adm. 50 c.), the ‘outer fort’ of the Epipolæ, built about 400 B.C., at the junction of the N. and S. walls of Dionysius, is one of the best-preserved of ancient Greek fortifications. The five massive towers on the W. side, whence we survey the whole site of ancient Syracuse and enjoy a fine view ranging from Mt. Ætna to Calabria, are flanked with two deep moats hewn in the rock. In the first of these are subterranean apertures for sallying purposes.
We may return to Syracuse by the Old Euryelus Road. On the S. side of the plateau it joins the Floridia road, 1¼ M. from the station.