At length, on Wednesday the 13th of June, we commenced our journey from Naples, although not without much insolence and altercation on the part of the vittureno, with respect to our fare; we finally settled this, by agreeing to pay six dollars each for our conveyance, dinners and beds included; which, as we were to occupy four days on the journey, was not unreasonable.
We had, however, to provide our own breakfasts, for which purpose we took with us the requisite materials for one in the English fashion and in particular a supply of butter, an article which is rarely to be met with in travelling through this country; even the bread is not always eatable, as the corn of which it is made, is thrashed out by horses or oxen trampling upon it, and then gathered up with not a little of the accompanying dirt, and which they are not always careful to purify it from, before sending it to the mill.
The innkeepers on the road, however, looked shy at our travelling provisions; but contrived, whenever they supplied us with eggs or milk, to make us pay exorbitantly for them.
We set off in company with the voiture for which we had delayed our journey on the Monday, but did not get clear of Naples before seven o’clock; after which we breakfasted at Capua, and reached St. Agatha in the evening; at the latter place we witnessed a violent quarrel between two Austrian officers, which however was carried through with the same weapons that it commenced with—their tongues.
Before setting off in the morning, we were informed that the courier from Rome to Naples, had been obliged to return to Mola on the previous night, to procure a stronger escort, in consequence of intelligence from a peasant, that he was way-laid by a band of thirteen robbers, near the spot where Mrs. A—’s carriage had been attempted at the time of my journey to Naples. On our way, we observed a number of sledges loaded with hay, and which were similar to those used for travelling over the snow in North America. We breakfasted at Mola, and arrived at Terracina about eight in the evening, after a considerable detention at Fondi, by custom-house officers, and which was repeated on entering the papal territories; throughout the Neapolitan states, we passed numerous parties of Austrian soldiers posted on the road.
At Terracina our passports were again examined, but we avoided the inspection of baggage by getting the trunks leaded with the custom-house stamps; and afterwards, unexpectedly escaped inspection at Rome, in consequence of one of our party having had the precaution to write for a lascia passare. This gentleman was the person whose illness had detained us a day longer in Naples; and which, after we came to know him, we had no cause to regret, as he proved a most agreeable gentlemanly companion. Major le Chevalier de S—, was gentleman of the chamber, and aid-de-camp to the king of Denmark; and we had afterwards the gratification of a considerable intercourse with him. It is singular that many years before, I should have had the pleasure of waiting upon his father, who was governor of St. Thomas’s at the time I visited that island in a British frigate.
On Friday the 15th, the morning being fine, we walked several miles by the side of the voiture, until our driver found it necessary to push on faster. After this we arrived for breakfast, in the middle of the Pontine marshes, where we were put into an apartment only fit for the accommodation of cattle, and congratulated ourselves in being provided with our own breakfast. The afternoon proved cold and wet. At seven o’clock we reached Veletri, where from our bed-room windows might be seen extensive views over the Pontine marshes, reaching as far as Terracina.
On Saturday, we arrived at Albano for breakfast, when my friend C— walked to the lake, to view the famous tunnel constructed by the ancient Romans, to convey water by a magnificent aqueduct to Rome. At three o’clock in the afternoon we arrived at the latter city; at the gates whereof Major S— found his lascia passare which enabled us to proceed without delay to C—’s old lodgings, where we not only met with accommodations for ourselves, but also for Major S—, who was induced to attach himself to our party: after securing this point, we dined together at the Armellino.
We spent only three days in the, now comparatively deserted, city of Rome; during which time we occupied ourselves, chiefly, in preparations for our journey to Florence, and purchasing little articles of mosaic, &c. for our friends. The only time devoted to vertu, was on the Monday, when we accompanied Major S— to Count Therwaston’s collection of statues. In one room, in order to ascertain whether I knew the difference, my friends placed my hand on the leg of a living man, put into a posture for having a mould taken from him, and this without apprising me that it consisted of animate, instead of inanimate nature. In this collection, amongst others, were busts of Lord Byron, and the crown prince and princess of Denmark.
On Tuesday the 19th, we took our departure from Rome for Florence, by way of Perrugia, at six o’clock in the morning. When we had proceeded about sixteen miles, before descending a hill for Baccano, my friends had a last view of this once famous, and yet interesting city. Besides Mr. C—, and Major S—, and myself, our voiture contained a Prussian medical officer, a very intelligent agreeable gentleman, and a member of the regency, who had travelled in our consort voiture from Naples, and with whom we had in consequence, a previous acquaintance, so that we were as comfortable as if we had occupied our own carriage, although we had to pay only ten dollars each for a seven days’ journey, supper and beds included.
We breakfasted at Baccano, contrary to the wish of our driver, which we afterwards regretted that we did not comply with, as, according to his representation, we found a most insolent unaccommodating landlord. After this, we passed over Monte Rosi, through the deserted looking town of Nepi, and arrived at Civita Castellana between seven and eight in the evening. In the course of this afternoon, we passed a beautiful female on horseback, riding after the fashion of men.
After sleeping at Civita Castellana, where our supper and bed were both intolerably bad, we recommenced our journey at day-break, and passed through Borghetto, when we crossed the Tiber at Ponte Felice, a stately bridge, built by the popes Sextus V. and Clement VIII. upon the ruins of the old and magnificent one of Augustus.
From hence we proceeded to Otricoli and Narsi. At noon, we reached the once celebrated city of Terni, anciently Interamnia, which, however, has now only to boast of its former greatness, and of having given birth to Tacitus the historian, and the emperors Tacitus and Florian. After a hasty breakfast, we engaged a small open carriage, and went to view the falls of the Velino, distant about five miles. This river, formed by various streams and mountain torrents, from the Appennines, flows quietly for some miles, along a nearly level plain, which at length terminates in one precipitous fall of three hundred feet in depth, exclusive of minor ones, one of which is two hundred, and another eighty feet perpendicular; over these, the stream rushes with tremendous force, dashing upon the rocky bed below with such violence, that a vast cloud of watery smoke is raised around it, and which, to the eye of the spectator placed above, appears to throw the bottom into profundity. From this point, the river runs foaming over a rocky bed, successively tumbling over the minor precipices, until shortly afterwards, it finishes its course in the Nera.
This grand and romantic spectacle will be best witnessed from below, to which a guide should be taken to conduct you, by a narrow steep footway, the carriage returning and awaiting your arrival at the termination of the falls; there will be however, a considerable distance to walk.
We did not return to Terni before five o’clock, when, at the instance of our driver, although contrary to my own inclinations, my companions were induced to drive on to Spoletto, to accomplish which journey, we had an additional horse for the first post, and afterwards a pair of oxen attached to our voiture, to enable us to ascend to Mount Somma, said to be two thousand feet in height; it was, however, too dark to see, from this elevated spot, the delightful scenery around it, and over the beautiful plains of Terni, which we had just quitted, and Clitumnus, on which we were entering.
At ten o’clock, we arrived at Spoletto, which appeared to be a fine ancient town, with a beautiful cathedral, fountains, and other public buildings. The inhabitants are not a little proud of their city having held out against Hannibal, when he besieged it, after his signal defeat of the Romans at Thrasymene.
At Spoletto we had a comfortable bed and supper, in comparison to what we enjoyed the preceding night, when we were unfortunate enough to be anticipated by a large party of English ladies, attended by one gentleman; and I suppose we should have been placed in the same situation, throughout our journey, had not the latter been taken so seriously ill at Terni, as to be unable to proceed.
On Thursday, we set out with day-light; breakfasted at Foligno, and reached Perrugia at nine in the evening, between which places, the road turns off on the right for Lorretto, Ancona, and Venice. On our arrival, it was so cold, that, notwithstanding, we were in the centre of Italy at Midsummer, it was necessary to order a fire; indeed the sensation was so urgent, that, I believe, had we been compelled to give up this or our supper, the latter would have been abandoned. Perrugia is situated on very elevated ground, so that we were obliged to call in the assistance of a couple of oxen, for the last hour, to drag us up to it, and had experienced cold heavy rain throughout the greater part of the day. In the course of the afternoon, we were rather surprised at having once more to cross the Tiber.
The following morning was exceedingly cold as we left Perrugia, but as the day advanced, and we descended into a more champaign country, the day became finer, as well as comfortably warm. We now, after passing through the village of Torricelli, arrived at the borders of the renowned lake of Thrasymene, where we travelled by its side, along a tolerably level road, through Passignano, from whence we passed over a small plain to Borghetto, the lake being constantly on our left, and the Appennine mountains surrounding this plain on our right.
“It was in the centre of this plain, that Hannibal encamped at the head of the African and Spanish troops; the Baleares, and the light-armed forces, he placed on the recesses of the mountains all around, while his cavalry were commissioned to occupy a defile in rear of the Romans, as soon as they had passed through it. The consul entered by Borghetto, with his characteristic rashness and impetuosity, and hastened to attack the army which he beheld in front; when a sudden shout bursting all around, informed him that he was beset on all sides; a thick mist rising from the lake, darkened the air; noise, confusion, dismay, defeat, and slaughter, immediately followed.”
We breakfasted at Casa del Piano, and after the various ceremonies of entering the Tuscan territories, reached Castiglione Fiorentino at half after seven in the evening. This is a beautiful village, and we could not avoid contrasting, as I believe all other travellers do, the appearance of the country and people, with the Roman states. We had a good supper, and some excellent wine of Monte Pulciano, and moreover, the felicity of being waited upon by a neat, interesting young female.
On the following morning, as we were preparing to depart, we found our fair attendant had laid out a breakfast of coffee, &c., in so clean and inviting a manner, that we could not resist breaking through our usual custom of travelling a stage before we took breakfast. We found it so good, compared to what we had for some days been accustomed to, that we could not refrain from loudly expressing our preference of Tuscany. After this repast, we felt inclined for walking, and as the morning was delightful, Major S— and myself, accompanied our voiture in this way for ten miles, until, near Arezzo, the inconvenience of several droves of cattle, intended for a fair at that place, induced us to re-enter the carriage. At this place, we regretted parting from Major S—, who left us for Sienna, promising however to rejoin us in a few days at Florence, where, he said, he had a brother, belonging to the Danish navy, with whom he should be happy to make us acquainted.
It was at this town that a monk, named Guido l’Aretino, in the eleventh century, first invented the present scale of musical notes. Our vittureno did not appear in haste to leave it, because he was desirous of picking up, if possible, a couple of passengers, to fill the now vacant places of Major S— and his servant. This gave us nearly three hours to explore the place, which we found a pretty large and pleasing town.
At eleven we set out again, when just out of town, our driver took up a female into the cabriolet, accompanied by a man, probably her husband, who afterwards kept up with the carriage on foot, all the way to Florence. After passing through a variety of towns and villages, at nine in the evening, we reached the village of Piano, where we stopped at the post-house. On the following morning, Sunday the 24th, we left Piano at four o’clock, and after travelling through a very hilly country for four hours, got upon a fine plain, which carried us to the gates of Florence, where we arrived about ten o’clock, and having the custom-house stamps on our luggage, were only detained to inspect the passports, after which we proceeded directly to my old quarters, the house of Madame Hembert.
Having now travelled between Florence and Rome, both by way of Sienna and Perrugia, I feel in some degree competent to give an opinion of the comparative advantages of each route. It is almost worth while, to pass once by the former, to enjoy the luxury of returning by the latter, the roads and accommodations of which are so infinitely superior. The way by Sienna may answer very well to do penance upon, and I know no other sentimental consideration which would induce a man to undertake it a second time. It is true, by Perrugia, the distance is more than fifty miles greater, but notwithstanding, the journey maybe completed in quite as short a space of time.