INDEX
- "Accomplish'd Cook (The)," Robert May's, 99
- Ahasuerus (King), feast of, 12
- Aigrefeuille (M. d'), as an epicure, 69, 70, 129
- Aldergrove (John), on game, 354
- "Almanach des Gourmands," quoted, 70;
- referred to, 73, 112 et seq., 157, 184, 233, 336;
- its purpose, 132;
- aphorisms of, 138-139. Vide also "G. de la Reynière"
- "Almanach Gourmand (L')," referred to, 225
- "Almanach Gourmand (Le Double)," quoted, 258
- Alsace, excellence of its cooks, 149
- "Ancienne Alsace à Table (L')," 148-150
- Angelica, 434
- Anne (Queen), as a gourmande, 102
- "Apician Morsels," a piratical volume, 336
- Apicius, as a cook, 29;
- referred to, 40, 41, 50, 200
- Apios tuberosa, or ground-nut, 255
- Appetites (great), anecdote of the Vicomte de Viel-Castel, 214;
- anecdote of a Swiss guard, 218;
- anecdote of a French drummer, 218;
- anecdote of an English chaplain, 288
- Archestratus, his lost poem on gastronomy, 13
- "Art Culinaire (L')," 121, 347, 408
- "Art de Diner en Ville (L')," 76
- "Art de la Cuisine Française au Dix-neuvième Siècle (L')," 206
- "Art du Cuisinier (L')," 71-72
- Arthus (Désiré), on old tavern-signs, 68
- "Art of Cookery (The)," Mrs. Glasse's, 107-111, 316
- "Art of Cookery (King's)," quoted, 93, 344
- "Art of Dining (The)," Thos. Walker's, 319;
- Abraham Hayward's, 331 et seq.
- Arts (the) and their masters, 131
- Athenæus, quoted, 8, 13, 16, 18, 21-23
- Attendance, importance of perfect, 321
- Audubon, on game, 362, 363, 370
- Autumn, glories of, 373 et seq., 398
- "Avalanche" (the), of Carême, 200
- Azincourt (Albouis), referred to, 130
- Baba, its history and virtues, 434
- Babiroussa (the), anecdote of, 212
- Bakers, the art of the German, 146, 171
- Baking, an ancient form of cooking, 10
- Balzac, quoted, 5, 351;
- referred to, 177;
- as a gastronomer, 219
- Banquets, early English, 90, 91
- Banville (Théodore de), quoted, 227;
- referred to, 341, 445
- Baron Brisse, quoted, 32, 180, 344, 371, 405, 417;
- as a gastronomer, 227-228;
- his splendid gastronomic axiom, 228
- Barras (Vicomte de), dinner of, 65
- Baryé, referred to, 246
- Basting, importance of, 228
- Baudelaire (Charles), referred to, 445
- Beauvilliers, referred to, 6, 69, 70, 199, 202, 213, 386, 435;
- quoted, 71, 110, 234, 442
- Béchamel, referred to, 54-55
- Beecher (Rev. Henry Ward), on pies, 436
- Beef, baron of, a royal dish, 92;
- sirloin of, its origin, 99
- Beer, quotation in praise of, 145
- Beer-gardens, German, 151 et seq.
- Beers, of Germany, 163-164, 168
- Bellone (Dr. de la), on the truffle, 390, 395
- Bénédictine, liqueur of, its history, 283-284
- Béranger, poem on the restaurant, 140
- Berchoux, referred to, 58, 72, 184;
- his poem on gastronomy, 73 et seq., 385
- Bernard (Gentil), referred to, 73
- Bertinazzi (Carlin), referred to, 129
- Beverages, importance of, 4;
- their relation to national cookery, 151-152, 163-164
- Bignon, anecdotes of, 342-343
- Bishop (a) of Burgundy, anecdote of, 304
- Blaze de Bury, on women, 433
- Blot (Pierre), 435
- Boar, the wild, 26, 39, 234, 236, 243, 246-247, 366
- Boar's-head, carols on the, 91, 93
- Boileau, axiom on punctuality, 269
- Boiling, a primitive method of cooking, 11
- "Boke of Keruynge," quoted, 85-87
- "Boke of Nurture," quoted, 84-85
- Bonaparte, Napoleon, as a gastronomer, 76
- Bonnechose (Cardinal), his famous mot, 284
- Bossuet, his "Oraison Funèbre" referred to, 232
- Bramble (Mathew), referred to, 324
- Bratwurst-Glöcklein, 163
- Breadstuffs, the first, 7;
- used by the early English, 83
- Breckenridge (Vice-Pres.), anecdote of, 253-255
- Brontë (Charlotte), on the curate's dinner, 288
- Brouwer (Adrian), referred to, 445
- Browne (Wm.), sonnet on the mushroom, 400
- Bryant, "Lines to a Waterfowl," 292
- Bubble and Squeak, 278
- Buckland (Frank), referred to, 243
- Buffon, anecdote of, 385
- Bulwer, on the fox, 161
- Cæsar, his prodigal feasts, 44
- Café (vide also "Restaurant,") Véry, referred to, 6, 52, 213, 220, 258;
- Voisin, referred to, 52;
- Hardy, referred to, 52, 69, 220;
- Riche, referred to, 52, 220, 250;
- Véfour, referred to, 213, 258;
- de Paris, referred to, 214, 219, 220, 221, 222, 258;
- its great vogue in the '40's, 219;
- Anglais, referred to, 220, 258;
- Philippe, referred to, 258
- Caligula, referred to, 43
- Cambacérès, as a gastronomer, 69, 205;
- referred to, 195
- Camerani (M.), referred to, 129
- Capon (the), as a favourite of the clergy, 306
- Caraway-seed, abuse of, in Germany, 169
- Carême, referred to, 13, 70, 194, 199-207, 211, 223, 229, 348-349, 350, 385, 408, 443;
- eulogy of, 207
- Carp (the), as a favourite of the clergy, 306, 308
- Carver, Vatel's definition of a, 60
- Carving, importance of, 87, 138;
- a novel monastic method of, 307
- "Castle of Indolence (The)," quoted, 238
- Cèpes. Vide "Mushrooms"
- Charles II, as an epicure, 99
- Châteauroux (Duchesse de), 63
- Chatillon-Plessis, gastronomical axiom of, 265
- Cheese, Martin Schookius' book on, 146;
- German varieties of, 167;
- its proper place at dinner, 263;
- its place and mission at dinner, 440
- Child (Theodore), as a false dietetic mentor, 417
- Civet of hare, 51
- Claré, 96
- Claudius, his great dining-room, 43
- Clergy (the), elaborate banquets given by, 90;
- table excesses of, in old Alsace, 149.
- Vide also individual references
- Climate vs. alimentation, 168, 270, 334
- Clough (Arthur Hugh), poem on "The Dinner," 336
- "Cobbe's Prophecies," quoted, 80
- Cocktail, physiology of the, 196
- Coffee, remote use of, 9
- Colbert, referred to, 55
- "Compleat Housewife (The)," Mrs. E. Smith's, 98, 106, 109
- "Compleat Practical Cook (The)," Charles Carter's, 103
- Compots, 157, 174, 432
- Condé (Prince de), referred to, 54, 58, 60
- Contades (Maréchal de), referred to, 159
- Cook, Montaigne's reference to a, 51-52;
- Berchoux's reference to a, 74;
- importance of a good, 113;
- attributes necessary for a good, 203, 207;
- anecdote of a new, 259;
- anecdote of a, 393
- Cook-book, the ideal, defined, 442-446
- Cook-books, early Italian, 49;
- early Spanish, 50;
- early French, 52;
- early English, 81 et seq., 317;
- 17th-century English, 93 et seq.;
- old German, 147-148, 150;
- modern (vide specific references), written by the clergy, 281
- Cookery, its relation to life and health, 3, 70, 71, 251, 257-258, 286, 430;
- modern progress in, 4;
- vs. matrimony, 6;
- Italian school of, 6, 49, 51, 195;
- compared to painting, 6, 203;
- in Biblical times, 7, 8, 9;
- of the ancient Persians, 11, 12;
- of the ancient Greeks, 13 et seq.;
- of the ancient Sicilians, 14;
- of the ancient Romans, 24 et seq.;
- period of its greatest distinction in Rome, 25;
- decline of ancient, 48;
- vs. literature and art, 48;
- the renaissance of, 49 et seq.;
- of Spain, 50, 423;
- its relation to the mind, 64, 176;
- vs. diplomacy, 70;
- home vs. the haute-cuisine, 72, 350, 429;
- cry of its decadence, 79, 258;
- Parisian school of, in England, 99;
- of the English rural classes, 101, 102;
- modern English, 111, 269 et seq.;
- importance of good writers on, 113, 199;
- period of its greatest distinction in France, 116;
- complementary to national beverages, 151, 153;
- excellence of German, 156, 174;
- Carême's and the Marquis de Cussy's opinion of old Roman, 201;
- of America, 249 et seq.;
- of the modern French, 259 (vide also special references);
- its relation to the church, 280 et seq.;
- a difficult art, 442.
- Vide also "Gastronomy"
- Cooking-schools, 251, 260
- Cooks, jealousy of, 14, 202;
- regulating the health of, 136
- "Cook's Oracle (The)," 316 et seq.
- Cordon-bleu, origin of the term, 62
- Cucumber, remote use of, 9;
- its virtues, 425
- Cuisine, the ideal, defined, 258
- Cuisine classique (the), 200
- "Cuisinier Parisien (Le)," quoted, 203;
- referred to, 206, 349
- Curaçoa sec, as a digestive, 192
- Curé, anecdote of a, 293
- Cussy (Marquis de), referred to, 67, 127, 211, 213, 225, 305;
- quoted, 120, 181, 201, 346, 383, 408
- Cuyp, referred to, 6, 203, 245
- Davis, Lieutenant-Colonel Newnham, 337-339
- De Candolle, referred to, 256
- Deffand (Mme. du), on strawberries, 144
- Delavigne (Cassimir), on dinners, 112
- "Délices de la Campagne (Les)," 59
- Délille (l'Abbé), on gardening, 71
- De Quincey on midday dining, 146
- "De re Culinaria," 29, 41, 50
- Désaugiers, poem on women, 119
- Dessert, its mission defined, 430;
- etymology of the term, 438
- Dickens (Charles), on dining, 329
- Dinner, hours of, 83;
- a good one, a simple one, 116, 320, 322, 324;
- punctuality at, 126, 269, 291, 318, 319;
- a wineless, 127, 263-266, 294, 295;
- inhuman hours of, 145-146, 150;
- its true hygienic hour, 146, 268, 269;
- Savarin's definition of a perfect, 190;
- Carême's classic, at the Baron Rothschild's villa, 200;
- Dumas' definition of a good, 213;
- of the Vicomte de Viel-Castel, 214;
- the Sunday engorgement, 266;
- evils of the "theatre", 267;
- a good, as defined by an eminent Baptist ecclesiast, 299;
- by the Ettrick Shepherd, 309;
- by Thackeray, 315;
- by Kitchener, 318;
- by the Earl of Dudley, 320;
- French definition of a perfect, 320;
- importance of variety in the bill of fare, 329;
- the graceful liar as an adjunct to, 331;
- Arthur Hugh Clough's poem on the, 336
- Dinners, poor "company," 126, 261, 321, 329;
- ministerial, 195;
- similarity of, 195, 325, 328;
- false etiquette of, 331
- "Dinners and Diners," 337-339
- Dish, the first recorded, 7
- Dishes, new, 72, 353, 380;
- testing of, 135;
- Hungarian, 167;
- abuse of certain, 261
- Dom Gobelot, anecdote of, 310
- Domitian, referred to, 43
- Dom Pérignon, the inventor of champagne, 283
- Don Quixote, referred to, 50
- "Double Almanach Gourmand (Le)," referred to, 340
- Douw (Gérard), referred to, 197
- Drayton (Michael), quoted, 360
- Dreams, viands provocative of, 197
- Drinking-Cups, of the ancients, 31
- Du Barry (Mme.), a supper of, 62
- Dubufe, referred to, 234
- Duck, wild, the art of carving a, 87;
- "When Father carves the" (poem), 87;
- canvasback, 249, 369;
- canvasback, Rev. Joseph Barber's poem on, 292;
- wild, 359, 366, 369
- Dumas (Alexandre), quoted, 5, 49, 56, 206, 213, 214, 224, 225, 383;
- referred to, 131, 149, 211-225, 321;
- as a cook, 211;
- as a gastronomer, 221;
- anecdote of, as a chef, 222, 223
- Dumas fils (Alexandre), referred to, 5
- Dumonteil (Fulbert), his saying about truffles, 10
- Eating, evils of irregular, 267
- Egyptians, table appointments of, 10
- Elephant, proper sauce to eat one with, 345
- Ely (Rev. Joseph A.), translation of poem on the pig, 232
- Emerson, his mot on pies, 437
- Emetics, use of, among the ancients, 15
- English, meals of the early, 82;
- not appreciative of fine cooking, 210, 274
- "Englishman in Paris (An)," quoted, 222
- Epicure, definition of an, 128, 131
- "Epicurean (The)," referred to, 353
- Epicurus, his maxims, 15
- Evelyn (John), on salads, 411
- Exercise, virtues of, 75, 378
- "Faerie Queene (The)," quoted, 235
- Fairy-rings. Vide "Mushrooms"
- Fayot (M.), quoted, 3, 5;
- referred to, 321
- "Feasts of Autolycus (The)," quoted, 343
- Fête champêtre. Vide "A shooting jaunt"
- Fieldfare, 361
- Fig-pecker (the), 44, 192, 361
- Fish, fondness of the old Latins for, 26;
- days in Elizabeth's era, 90, 308;
- omelettes and pâtés of, 149;
- variety and superiority of American, 251;
- its complementary wine, 309;
- proper cookery of, 368
- Flamingo (the), as a table bird, 44
- Fletcher (John), quoted, 96
- Flint cracker, origin of the, 263
- Fouquet, referred to, 54, 55, 58
- Francatelli, referred to, 6, 106, 199, 208, 226, 350
- France (Anatole), his mot on the pâté de Chartres, 434
- Frederick the Great, his poem to his cook, 146
- Frog (the), his first leap into the frying-pan, 150
- Fruit, after dinner, 267
- Fruits, the first cultivated, 9;
- glass-grown in England, 273;
- superiority of those of western New York, 274
- Frying, theory of, 179
- Fuger (Bishop), anecdote of, 310 et seq.
- Game, Savarin's references to, 192, 193, 197;
- Anthony Hayward on its cookery, 333;
- preservation and protection of, 357-358;
- definition of the term, 358;
- effect of food upon flavour of, 359-360, 362-363, 370;
- proper wines to accompany, 372;
- species, haunts, pursuit, protection, value, and cookery of, Vide chapter "The Spoils of the Cover"
- Garum, of the ancients, 46
- Gastaldy (Dr.), anecdote of, 120;
- as an epicure, 130
- Gastronomer, the ideal, defined, 442-446
- Gastronomic tests, Savarin's illustration of, 190
- Gastronomy, Archestratus' lost poem on, 13;
- Berchoux's poem on, 73-76, 184;
- as defined by M. de Borose, 81;
- as defined by La Reynière, 128;
- French vs. German, 145, 151, 152;
- finesse of its ethics, 157-158;
- one of the most important arts, 176;
- as defined by the "Dictionnaire de la Conversation," 184;
- as defined by Savarin, 184;
- cry of its decadence, 194;
- its mainspring the pig, 229 et seq.;
- as promoted by the religious orders, 285 et seq., 335;
- in relation to sauces, 345;
- St. Ange's disquisition on, 378-381;
- in relation to sport, 354, 356, 445.
- Vide also "Cookery," "Dinners," and individual references
- Gavarni, his mot on the mushroom, 407
- Gemüthlichkeit, of the Germans, 153, 174
- Gérard (Charles), referred to, 148-150
- Gerarde, quoted, 256, 400, 411
- Gibson (W. Hamilton), 406, 407
- Glacer à la flamme, 203
- Glatigny (Albert), quoted, 63, 341
- Gluttony, as defined by woman, 343
- Goethe, referred to, 147, 430;
- poem on game, 169
- Goldsmith (Oliver), quoted, 108
- Gonthier (Johann), referred to, 52
- Good-will, a sportsman's waste of, 381
- Goose (the), merits of, in Germany, 156;
- in Strassburg and Alsace, 159-161;
- and applesauce, 244
- "Goret (La Mort du)," poem, 232
- Gouffé (Jules), referred to, 199, 225-226, 227, 229, 445
- Gourmand, La Reynière's definition of a, 127-128
- Gourmandise, as defined by Savarin, 186;
- vs. beauty, 187;
- Gérard (Charles), quoted, 199
- Gout, 143, 270, 346, 444;
- prevalence of, among the ancients, 46;
- prevalence of in England, 96, 102;
- vs. pâté de foie gras, 162
- Grace before meat, 291, 297
- Graces, the three spirituous, 196
- "Grad' aus dem Wirthshaus," German convivial song, 173
- "Grand Dictionnaire de Cuisine," 211 et seq.
- Greeks, meals of the ancient, 19;
- gluttony of the ancient, 23
- Greeley (Horace), anecdote of, 239
- Grog, origin of the word, 97
- Grouse, ruffed, 356, 359, 364, 366, 370, 375, 376, 411;
- pinnated, or prairie-chicken, 363, 365
- Hafiz, quoted, 423
- Hagenmark, 432
- Hamerton, referred to, 243
- "Hare, first catch your," origin of the term, 110
- Harvest-home, poem on the celebration of, 101
- Hasenbraten and Hasenpfeffer, 168
- Hayward (Abraham), referred to, 331 et seq.
- Hayward (Anthony), on a chaplain's appetite, 288
- Heidelberg, a dinner at the Wolfsbrunnen, 152
- Heliogabalus, gluttony of his reign, 46-48;
- inventor of vol-au-vent à la financière, 48
- Henry VIII, his fondness for sweets, 430
- Herodotus, quoted, 10
- Herrick, quoted, 79, 102
- Herring, the "marinirte," 167
- Hertford (Lord), anecdote of, 333
- Hervilly (Ernest d'), referred to, 233
- Hippocras, 57, 93, 94, 96
- Hirztag, a strange custom of that festival, 150
- Hollar, quoted, 358
- Homer, quoted, 20
- Hone (Wm.), poem on mince-pie, 435
- Hood (Thomas), referred to, 316
- Horace, quoted, 11, 26, 39, 40, 113, 398;
- referred to, 38, 39;
- his fondness for sweets, 428-429
- Host, a delicate, as defined by La Reynière, 139;
- vs. guest, Baron Brisse's aphorism on, 228;
- his duty to his guests, 264-265, 330-331
- Housewife, troubles of the, 260
- Hugo (Victor), referred to, 341
- Hunt (Leigh), on pig-driving, 239
- Ice-cream, discoverer of, 434
- Indian summer, poem on, 373
- Indigestion, La Reynière on the causes of, 133
- Ingoldsby (Thomas), referred to, 289;
- quoted, 280, 291, 306, 438
- Jacque (Charles), referred to, 233, 245
- Janin (Jules), referred to, 5, 211, 213, 348, 445
- Jefferies (Richard), on feasting the chapel-pastor, 287
- Johnson (Dr.), quoted, 111, 248
- Jordaens, referred to, 6
- Jury dégustateur (the), 120 et seq.
- Juvenal, referred to, 34, 37, 40;
- quoted, 37, 42
- "Kalendare de Potages dyuers," 88, 90
- Kempis (Thomas à), his fondness for salmon, 309
- King (Wm.), poem on cookery, 279
- Kitchener (Dr. Wm.), referred to, 106
- Kuchen, merits of the German, 169, 174
- "Kuchenmeisterey," 171
- La Bruyère, quoted, 229, 380
- Lacroix (Octave), his tribute to Dumas, 211
- La Fontaine, referred to, 116
- Laguipière, referred to, 6, 201, 202
- Lamb (Charles), referred to, 17, 239, 240-242, 430;
- his apology to the pig, 240
- Lampridius, quoted, 47
- Larding (art of), its discoverer, 281
- La Reynière (Grimod de), referred to, 66, 72, 112 et seq., 178, 196, 213, 225, 317, 336, 361, 443;
- poem of, 117;
- quoted, 118, 233, 236, 287, 345, 348, 383, 411;
- his home kitchen, 131, 132;
- as a gastronomer, 132;
- denounced by Savarin, 158;
- his tribute to Savarin, 177.
- Vide also "l'Almanach des Gourmands"
- La Rochefoucauld, quoted, 5
- Leckerbissen and Frauenessen, 172
- Lennox (Lady), anecdote of, 335
- Liar, charm of the accomplished, 331
- Liqueurs (celebrated), of monastic invention, 283-285
- "Livre de Cuisine (Le)," 225
- Locust (the), as an article of diet, 7
- Louis XIII, as a gastronomer, 53;
- XIV, as a gastronomer, 64 et seq.;
- XV, as a gastronomer, 61;
- XVIII, as a gastronomer, 76, 78
- Lucullus, as an epicure, 41-43;
- referred to, 45, 200, 201
- Luncheon, an ideal woodland, 375 et seq.
- Lyne (Bishop de), referred to, 149
- Macaroni, Dr. Gastaldy on, 120
- Macaroni, Rossini's lost recipe for, 220
- Madeleine (the), Dumas' story of, 169
- Mæcenas, referred to, 38, 39
- Magee (Bishop), anecdote of, 394
- Mahony (Rev. Francis), poem on pâté de foie gras, 161;
- his "Watergrasshill Carousal," 309
- Maintenon (Mme. de), referred to, 67, 63, 340
- Maître d'hôtel, duties and importance of the, 136-138, 204
- "Maître d'Hôtel Français (Le)," 206
- "Manuel des Amphitryons," quoted, 69;
- referred to, 93-95
- Markham (Gervaise), referred to, 93-95;
- quoted, 409
- Marriage, Balzac's definition of, 351
- Martial, quoted, 24, 31, 33, 44;
- referred to, 37, 38, 40
- Marvell (Andrew), referred to, 81, 252
- Mauri (Cardinal), his fondness for "Est, Est, Est," 311
- Mead, its composition, 97
- Medici (Catherine de), 52, 433
- Melons, 9, 273, 298
- "Memoirs of a Stomach," quoted, 271
- "Memorials of Gormandizing," 329
- Metheglin, 96, 98, 439
- Metzelsuppe, Uhland's poem on, 166
- Mézeray (Mlle.), referred to, 117-119, 125, 126
- Mind vs. stomach, 5
- Mistletoe-thrush, 361
- "Modern Cook (The)," 208
- Mohrenkeller, of Nürnberg, 163
- Molière, referred to, 57, 58, 113
- Monselet (Charles), quoted, 175, 194, 206, 264;
- referred to, 211, 225, 232, 340
- Montaigne, quoted, 6, 51, 200, 376, 414;
- referred to, 147, 283
- Montauron (Seigneur de), 54
- Montausier (Duc de), 54, 55
- Montespan (Mme. de), 58, 63
- Montgomery (James), poem on the daisy, 424
- Morellet (l'Abbé), anecdote of, 304
- Morgan (Lady), referred to, 62;
- quoted, 200
- Mouchy (Maréchal de), anecdote of, 64
- Moynier (M. M.), referred to, 394, 396
- Müller (Wilhelm), poem of, quoted, 311
- Mullet, a much-valued fish, 32, 47;
- origin of the name, 33
- Murger (Henri), referred to, 341
- Mushrooms, 362;
- species, qualities, history, haunts, literature, and cookery of, 397-408
- Musset (Alfred de), quoted, 219
- Mutton, Pré-Salé and Southdown, 359, 380
- Napoleon I, as a gastronomer, 61
- Nasidienus, the feast of, 39, 40
- Nero, his Domus aurea, 43
- Ninon de l'Enclos, referred to, 175, 178, 200
- North, (Christopher), 309, 316
- "Nouvel Almanach des Gourmands," quoted, 220
- Nudels, 167
- Oaks, list of truffle-producing, 391
- Oil and vinegar, 415-416
- "Old Cookery Books," quoted, 275
- Olive-oil, remote use of, 8
- Olla podrida, 50;
- en grande, 50
- Omelette (the curé's), anecdote of, 299-302
- Onderdonk (Bishop), anecdote of, 295
- Onion, an ancient vegetable, 9;
- tribe, virtues of the, 100, 107, 231, 387
- "Original (The)," 319 et seq.
- Orsay (Comte d'), on French cookery, 258
- Ortolans, 76, 361
- Ostade, referred to, 74, 445
- Oudry, referred to, 234
- Ovens, Carême's remarks on, 202
- Oyster-beds, first artificial, 27
- Oysters, ancient modes of cooking, 89;
- superiority of American, 252
- Pain perdu, 89
- Painting, Italian school of, 6, 48, 245;
- Dutch and Flemish schools of, 6, 246, 445;
- French school of, 246
- "Panthropeon, or History of Food (The)," 17, 209
- Papabotte (the), 362-363
- Parkinson (John), 81, 411
- Parsley, virtues of, 106, 231
- Pastry, La Reynière's definitions of, 138;
- Carême's definition of, 202
- Pâte de foie gras, 7, 130, 156, 158, 161, 162, 189, 235, 236, 397;
- La Reynière's account of a, 123;
- its history, 159;
- d'écrevisses, 203;
- de Chartres, 434
- "Pâtissier français (Le)," 59
- Pennell (Elizabeth Robins), quoted, 107, 342
- Pensey (Henrion de), his famous gastronomic axiom, 252
- Pepper, superiority of adulterated, 417
- Pepys (Diary of), quoted, 99-101
- Perdrix à l'espagnol, 50
- Perfumes, use of, at feasts, 13, 28
- Petit-Radel (M.), anecdote of, 77
- "Petite Cuisine (La)," 227
- Petrarch, on wine, 293
- Petronius Arbiter, referred to, 35, 37
- Pheasant (the), 289, 359
- Philippe d'Orléans, as a gastronomer, 61
- "Philosopher's Banquet (The)," quoted, 106
- Physicians, as gastronomers, 78, 267
- "Physiologie du Goût (La)." referred to and quoted, 175 et seq., 206, 351, 395.
- Vide also "Savarin"
- Pie (pumpkin), its origin, 273;
- a game, 372
- Pies, 249, 430 et seq.;
- wild boar, 89;
- strange early English, 95
- Pig (the), his popularity as a signboard, 67;
- of Westphalia and Rothenburg, 164;
- as a factor of gastronomy, 229 et seq.;
- "Dissertation sur le Cochon," 231;
- "Gli Elogi del Porco," 231;
- M. Pouvoisin's eulogy of, 232;
- Rev. Joseph A. Ely's eulogy of, 232;
- Monselet's eulogy of, 232;
- Southey's eulogy of, 232;
- La Reynière's eulogies of, 233, 236;
- Ernest d'Hervilly's sonnet to, 233;
- Spenser's and Thomson's unjust strictures on, 235, 238;
- the Southern razorback, 235, 306;
- fondness for truffles, 236, 389;
- Leigh Hunt's essay on, 239;
- Charles Lamb's apology to the elder animal, 240;
- as a retriever of game, 244;
- a German eulogy of, 244;
- his influence upon the polite arts, 245-246;
- "Rôti-Cochon," 261, 414
- "Pig-Driving, On the Graces and Anxieties of," 239
- Planked shad, origin of, 253 et seq.
- Pliny, quoted, 31;
- referred to, 40, 384, 395
- Plover, upland or grass, 361 et seq.
- Plum-porridge, 435
- Plum-pudding, and history of, 334, 434-435
- Pompadour (Marquise de), 63
- Pope, quoted, 83, 103
- Pork, the favourite dish of the ancients, 17;
- origin of, 230
- Pork-pie, 89
- Porridge, use of, by the ancients, 24
- Potato, history of the, 255-256, 306
- Potatoes, in England, 272, 330
- Pot-au-feu, importance of the, 224
- Propertius, quoted, 38
- Prout (Father). Vide Rev. Francis Mahony "Psalm, a penitential," 286
- Puff-balls. Vide "Mushrooms"
- Punch, origin of the word, 97
- Punctuality. Vide "Dinner, punctuality at"
- Pumpkin, an ancient vegetable, 9
- Recipes
- A Blue-violet Salad ("The Story of My House"), 426
- "A Bride's Pie" (Mrs. Glasse), 110
- A good brown gravy (Mrs. Glasse), 109
- A liver-pudding boiled (Mrs. Glasse), 109
- Bakewell pudding, 276
- Bouillon, Dumas' mode of preparing, 224
- Brook trout (Savarin), 179;
- (Baron Brisse's formulas), 180
- Cabbage, Apicius' recipes for, 29
- Cèpes (Vuillemot's recipe for), 405
- Chicken, Artimidor's recipe for, 18
- Cock ale, Markham's formula for, 98
- "Dish of Roses" (the). Laurentius' recipe for, 18
- Flounder-souchy (Kitchener), 327
- Gigot de mouton à la Richelieu (St. Ange), 380
- Guisado, the Spanish, 51
- How to collar a pig (Mrs. Smith), 109
- How to roast a pig (Mrs. Glasse), 110
- Kalter Aufschnitt, 169
- Mutton Cutlets (Mrs. Walter Ellis), 276
- Partridge aux choux (Baron Brisse), 371
- Pheasant à la Sainte-Alliance (Savarin), 193
- Potage aux choux (Dumas), 224
- Quail à la financière (Gouffé), 226
- Roast goose à l'allemande, 157
- Sack-posset (Sir Fleetwood Fletcher), 439
- Sauce for venison, mutton, and game (Francatelli), 208;
- for green geese and ducklings, 278;
- à la Schönberg (Her Gracious Serenity), 352
- Spare-rib (Charles Lamb's new formula), 242
- "The Curé's Omelette" (Savarin), 302
- The hunter's sandwich, 441
- Ranhofer (Charles), referred to, 353
- Récamier (Mme.), referred to, 300
- Reed-birds, 359, 361
- Rembrandt, referred to, 6
- Restaurants, first Parisian, 64, 66;
- excessive charges of Parisian, 140, 220, 342;
- Bignon, referred to, 219;
- American, 250;
- advantage of dining at, 339;
- Glatigny's sonnet on, 341;
- Bignon's, 341-343;
- Trois Frères Provençeaux, referred to, 258;
- a dinner at, in 1860, 297;
- English, 270, 275, 338.
- Vide also "Cafés," and specific references
- Retz (Cardinal de), referred to, 171
- Réveillé-Parise (Dr.), referred to, 339
- Richelieu (Cardinal de), 54, 302, 380;
- (Maréchal, Duc de), 303, 348
- Riquette, referred to, 202
- Ristori (Mme.), referred to, 220
- Roasting, as defined by the Marquis de Cussy, 120
- Robert, referred to, 6, 69, 194, 201, 202
- Rocher de Cancale (restaurant of), 52, 115, 117, 118, 187, 221;
- a celebrated menu of, 140-142
- Rohan (Cardinal), referred to, 150
- Romans, luxury of the ancient, 25 et seq.;
- meals of the ancient, 27
- Ronsard, referred to, 52;
- quoted, 79
- Roques (Joseph), 408
- "Royal Cookery" (Patrick Lamb's), 102
- Rubens, referred to, 6, 245
- Ruffs and reeves, 335
- Ruysdael, referred to, 6
- Sack-posset, 96
- St. Ange, gastronomic homily of, 378-382
- Ste. Beuve, quoted, 381
- Saint-Simon, quoted, 55
- Salad, 362;
- virtues of, as defined by Savarin, 301, 411;
- virtues of, as defined by La Reynière, 411;
- its mission and place at the dinner, 418
- Salads, remote use of, 10
- Salmis. La Reynière's lost monastic recipe for, 286
- Sandpiper (Bartramian). Vide "Plover" and "Papabotte"
- Sanzai (Archbishop), anecdote of, 304
- Sardanapalus, as a gastronomer, 12
- Sauce, a good, as defined by Baron Brisse, 334;
- a good, as defined by La Reynière, 345;
- anchovy, 345;
- (a good), its qualification, 349
- Sauce tartare, a novel, 256
- Sauces old English, 84;
- best for brook trout, 191;
- (Francatelli's), for mutton and game, 209, 368;
- (English), 277;
- merits of, 249, 345;
- Harvey's, origin and anecdote of, 277;
- bread, 289, 368;
- their relation to gastronomy, 345;
- Marquis de Cussy on, 346;
- mayonnaise, its history and etymology, 348-349, 421;
- à la Schönberg, 352;
- a list of, for the home cuisine, 352;
- apple, 368;
- à la Richelieu, 381
- Saucier (the), 346
- Sauerkraut, 371;
- when invented, 150;
- (French), not to be commended, 223
- Sausages, the German the master-maker of, 152, 423;
- German species and varieties of, 163-166
- Savarin, referred to, 75, 113, 114, 225, 305, 351, 370, 434, 443;
- denounced by M. de Courchamps, 158;
- as a gastronomer, 181, 206;
- his discourtesy to La Reynière, 195;
- poem of, 197;
- quoted, 300-302, 383, 395, 411.
- Vide also "Physiologie du Goût (La)"
- Scott (Sir Walter), referred to, 309
- Seasonings, used by the ancients, 28-30;
- used by the English, 83, 108;
- importance of, 446
- Seneca, quoted, 5, 31, 32, 41, 46;
- referred to, 40, 44
- Sévigné (Marquis de), referred to, 175, 200
- Shakespeare, quoted, 246, 441
- Shelley, referred to, 234
- Shooting jaunt, a, 375 et seq.
- Shuttleworth (Canon), his famous "grace," 291
- Signboards (old), and their mottoes, 67
- Smell (the), its influence on the taste, 182
- Smith (Rev. Sydney), his mot on pâté de foie gras, 158;
- gastronomic anecdote of, 249;
- his mot on the pheasant, 286;
- his poem on roast mutton, 290;
- on fanatics, 294;
- his poem on salad, 412
- Sneyders, referred to, 6, 234, 445
- Snipe, 356, 359, 365, 366, 411
- Société des Mereredis, 118, 129, 130
- Solomon, his table, 11
- Sora, or rail (the), 360
- Soubise (Prince de), anecdote of his chef, 37
- Soup, bisque d'écrevisses, 150;
- aux choux, 224;
- croûte-au-pot, 224, 275;
- Julienne, 281;
- first mention of, 281
- "Soupers de la Cour (Les)," 62
- Soups, German, 167
- Southey, referred to, 232
- Soyer, referred to, 17, 106, 199, 209-210
- Spartan black broth, 13
- Spätzle, 167
- Speaking-tube, invented by La Reynière, 126
- Speisekarte, a typical, 154
- Spenser, quoted, 235;
- referred to, 238
- Sport. Vide chapter "The Spoils of the Cover"
- Stimulants, before dinner, 196
- Stomach (the), its joys and sorrows, 5;
- its offices, 267, 317, 319
- Strawberries vs. gout, 143, 432
- —— —— —— (Rev. Dr.), anecdote of, 296-299
- Sweetmeats, 379
- Sweet potato, 256
- Sydney (Sir Robert), anecdote of, 89
- Tables volantes, 62
- Talleyrand (Prince de), as a gastronomer, 69, 202
- Talon (Joseph), discoverer of truffle culture, 388
- Taste (the), Savarin's analysis of, 181-184;
- influence of smell on, 182
- Teniers, referred to, 6, 445
- Tennyson, referred to, 316
- Thackeray, referred to, 159, 195, 387;
- as a gastronomer, 315, 329;
- quoted, 327, 340
- Thomson, quoted, 238
- Thoreau, on the mushroom, 402, 403
- Tiberius, death from poisoned mushrooms, 43;
- as an epicure, 44;
- his fondness for cucumbers, 425
- Timon (Bishop), of Buffalo, anecdote of, 293
- Toast, a celebrated French, to femininity, 283
- Toasts, form of, among the ancients, 27
- Tobacco, introduction of, 28
- Total abstainer, anecdote of a, 265;
- abstinence, poem on, 295
- Total abstainers vs. guests, 263-266;
- brandied peaches, 433
- Trimalchio, dinner of, 35
- Trout, brook, best sauce for, 181;
- of the English chalk-streams, 364;
- American vs. the European, 365
- "Truffe (De la)," 394
- "Truffe (La)," 390
- Truffles, 143, 159, 210, 235, 434;
- species, qualities, history, cultivation, cookery, literature, and phenomena of. Vide chapter "Two Esculents par excellence"
- Turbot (the), 33
- Turkey, a truffled, 122, 304, 385;
- history of the, 304, 305;
- wild, 369-370;
- wild vs. the domestic, 369, 370
- Turtle feasts, American, 267
- Ude, referred to, 6, 106, 190, 207
- Uhland, referred to, 163, 166
- Ulric (St.), festival of, 308
- Urbain-Dubois, referred to, 199, 226
- Van Mieris, referred to, 197
- Vatel, referred to, 6, 54, 58, 130;
- on carving, 59
- Vegetables, used by the ancients, 9, 10, 28, 29;
- poor cookery of, in Great Britain, 272;
- importance of good, 330
- Verneuil (G. de), referred to, 130
- Véron (Dr.), anecdote of, 221;
- on the restaurant, 339
- Verres, referred to, 43
- Viel-Castel (Vicomte de), anecdote of, 214
- Vienna roll (the), origin of, 171
- Vincent La Chapelle, 61
- Vineyards (celebrated), first founded by the ecclesiasts, 282
- Virgil, referred to, 234
- Vitellius, referred to, 43, 44
- Vol-au-vent à la financière, 203;
- inventor of, 48
- Vopallière (Marquis de), referred to, 71
- Vuillemot, referred to, 212, 213
- Walker (Thos.), 106, 195, 319 et seq.;
- as a gastronomer, 326
- Walton (Isaac), referred to, 81
- Ward (Artemus), his mot on hasty pudding, 134;
- his mot on pies, 437
- Weenix, referred to, 234, 445
- Wheat, original home of, 9
- Wheatears, 335, 361
- White (Gilbert), referred to, 243, 272;
- quoted, 360
- Whitebait, as eulogized by Thackeray, 328, 387
- Whitefish (the), 45
- Wines, of the ancients, 13, 17, 30, 40;
- of the ancient Romans, 30;
- in use in England, 96-98;
- difficulty of testing, 135;
- German, 168;
- of old Alsace, 159;
- brut champagne, 262, 431;
- importance of good, 262, 264, 265;
- champagne, 262, 270, 323, 337, 438;
- champagne, its virtues, 283, 379;
- their relation to the clergy, 282, 291, 293, 295, 309 et seq.;
- "Est, Est, Est," history of, 310 et seq.;
- importance of a sufficient variety, 322-323;
- their relation to game, 356, 372;
- to truffles and mushrooms, 394, 408;
- Château Yquem, crême, of 1861 and 1864, 427;
- as a medium of hygiene, 444
- Woman, jealousy of, 14;
- imitating man's excesses, 46;
- Talleyrand's precept regarding, 79;
- compared to peaches, 119;
- as gastronomers, 125, 343, 351;
- La Reynière's distinction of, as guests, 139;
- created for the selfish wishes of man, 174;
- her fondness for sweetmeats, 174, 429, 430, 433;
- Savarin's references to, 192;
- as an addition to a shooting-party, 192-193, 378;
- a French toast to, 283;
- as an adjunct to the dinner, 320;
- disadvantages of dining with, 338, 340;
- in the eighteenth century, 347;
- how she may hypnotise the sterner sex, 350, 429;
- a toast in sparkling St. Péray to her, 351;
- Balzac's reference to, 351;
- the wise one defined, 351;
- vs. champagne, 379, 429;
- compared to mushrooms, 398;
- pretty one should mix a salad, 420;
- her relation to cookery, 429;
- a foil for man's mistakes, 431;
- as a garnish to an omelette, 432;
- her pet tipples in colonial times, 438, 439
- Woodcock, 355, 359, 365, 366, 376
- Wordsworth, referred to, 240