The Spell of Switzerland

In 1760 Catherine de Chandieu, then a girl of nineteen, was at Geneva and saw Voltaire’s play “Fanime,” given extremely well by Madame Denis, Madame Constant-Pictet, Mademoiselle de Basincourt and Voltaire himself. She describes him thus: “Voltaire was dressed in a way which was enough to make one choke with amusement; he wore huge culottes which came down to his ankles, a little vest of red silk embroidered with gold; over this vest a very large vest of magnificent material, white embroidered in gold and silver; it was open at one side so as to show the undervest and on the other it came down below the knee; his culottes were of satin cramoisi; over his great vest he wore a kind of coat of satin with silver, and over the whole a blue mantle doublé de cramoisi galooned with gold and superb; when he appeared on the stage many people began to laugh and I was one of them; he had a huge white beard which he had to readjust several times, and a certain comic look even in the most tragic passages.”

Madame de Genlis went to Geneva on purpose to call on M. de Voltaire, though she had no letter to him. He invited her to dinner, and, by a mistake, she arrived too early. She gives a very entertaining account of her experiences. One little passage is characteristic:

“What an effect the presence of such a man as Voltaire must have had on the pious Genevans may be imagined when this story was told of him. Shortly after the publication of ‘Emile,’ Voltaire was discussing Rousseau’s marvellous picture of the sunrise. ‘I must try it,’ said he. ‘I, too, will go some morning on the top of a mountain; I should like to know if one is really compelled to adore the Creator at daybreak.’ The necessary preparations were made; they set out at night and reached just before dawn the Col de la Faucille in the Jura. The sunrise was splendid.... Voltaire knelt down, gazed in silence and then said: ‘Yes, Creator of heaven and earth, I adore you before the magnificence of your works.’ ... Then getting up, he rubbed his knees and cried: ‘Mais quant à monsieur votre fils et à madame sa mère, je ne les connais pas!’

“When Rousseau heard that he became pensive and then said, ‘Oh, that man, that man, he would make me hate the page of my works which I like best.’

“When the earthquake at Lisbon shocked the whole world Pastor Vernes preached a celebrated sermon which led Voltaire to write: ‘Sir, it is said you have written such a beautiful sermon on the event that it would have been really unfortunate had Lisbon not been destroyed, for we should have been deprived of a magnificent discourse.’”

Another plan which occupied me in the hours which I consecrated to regular work was for an article on the village festivals of Switzerland:—The charming Narcissus Festival of Montreux, celebrated in May, the great Fête of the Abbé des Vignerons, so fascinatingly described by Juste Olivier and so cleverly worked by James Fenimore Cooper into his novel, “The Headsman.” It would include processions through picturesque streets and the rejoicings at the return of the cows from the Alp with the Ranz des Vaches:—

I gathered any quantity of material about Swiss authors and composers: Jacques Hoffmann, Johanna Spyri, Töpfer, Amiel, Olivier,—none, perhaps, stars of the first magnitude—unless the Painter Böcklin—but all interesting.

When winter came we went to see the winter sports at Saint-Moritz—the skiing where it was not uncommon for some of the French and Norwegian champions to leap almost thirty meters. Indeed, one man flew through the air forty-six meters, but could not keep his balance when he struck far down the slope. I was not tempted to try it.

Switzerland in winter is even more beautiful than in summer. The uniform blanket of dazzling snow, though its curves are filled with vivid tints of violet and blue, may be hard on the eyes. The mercury may go low but the purity of the atmosphere and its exhilaration atone for the discomfort of cold. In the house we kept warm and cozy. The children were well and happy and I stayed on and on: I could not resist the Spell.

THE END.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Abraham, George D.: The Complete Mountaineer

Abraham, George D.: Mountain Adventures at Home and Abroad

Agassiz, Louis: A Journey to Switzerland and Pedestrian Tours in that Country

Anteisser, Roland: Altschweizerische Baukunst

Auvigne, Edmund B. d’: Switzerland in Sunshine and Snow

Bauden, Henry: Villas et Maisons de Campagne en Suisse

Bernowilli, A.: Balci Descriptio Helvetiae

Bonstetten, Albrecht von: Editor Descriptio Helvetiae

Burnet, Gilbert: Bishop of Salisbury. Travels or Letters containing an account of what seemed most remarkable in Switzerland

Collings, Henry: Switzerland as I Saw It

Cook, Joel: Switzerland, Picturesque and Descriptive

Coolidge, W. A. B.: Swiss Travel and Swiss Guide-Books

Cooper, James Fenimore: Excursions in Switzerland

Dauzat, Albert: La Suisse moderne

Dumas, Alexandre: La Suisse

Edouard, Desor, and Favre, Leopold: Le bel âge du bronze lacustre en Suisse

Elton, Charles Isaac: An Account of Shelley’s Visits to France, Switzerland and Savoy in 1814 and 1816

Ferguson, Robert: Swiss Men and Swiss Mountains

Gribole, Francis: The Early Mountaineers

Guerber, Hélène Adeline: Legends of Switzerland

Guillon, Louis Maxime: Napoleon et la Suisse

Hasler, Fr. and H.: Galerie berühmter Schweizer der Neuzeit. In Bildern mit biographischem Text von Alfred Hartmann

Havergal, Frances Ridley: Swiss Letters and Alpine Poems

Heer, J. C.: Album der Schweiz: 450 Bildern ... Nach Schilderungen. Edited by Alexander B. Freiherr von Bergenroth

Howard, Blanche Willis: One Year Abroad

Howells, William D.: A Little Swiss Sojourn

Istria, la Comtesse Dora d’ (Princess Helena Koltsova-Masalskaya): La Suisse Allemande et l’ascension du Mönch

Kuhns, Levi Oscar: Switzerland, Its Scenery, History and Literary Associations

Lerden, Walter: Recollections of an old Mountaineer

Lubbock, Sir John: The Scenery of Switzerland

LeDuc, Violet: Mont Blanc

MacCrackan, William D.: Romance and Teutonic Switzerland

Mummery, A. F.: My Climbs in the Alps and the Caucasus

Orelli, Johann Caspar von: Editor Inscriptiones Helvetiae, Collectae et explicatae

Rey, Guido: The Matterhorn. Translated by J. E. C. Eaton

Rickmers, W. Rickmer: Ski-ing for Beginners and Mountaineers

Rhys, Isobel L.: The Education of Girls in Switzerland and America

Rook, Clarence: Switzerland, the Country and its People

Saitschik, Robert M.: Meister der Schweizerischen Dichtung des 19. Jahrhunderts

Scheuber, Joseph: Die mittelalterlichen Chorstühle in der Schweiz

Schneider, Albert: Die neuesten römischen Ausgrabungen in der Schweiz

Sennett, Alfred Richard: Across the Great Saint Bernard

Stephen, Leslie: The Playground of Europe

Stock, E. Elliott: Scrambles in Storm and Sunshine among the Swiss and English Alps

Stoddard, Frederick Wolcott: Tramp through Tyrol

Symonds, John Addington: Our Life in the Swiss Highlands

Tyndall, John: Hours of Exercise in the Alps

Umlauft, F., P. H. D.: The Alps. Translated by Louisa Brough

Usteris, Martin: Pilatus und St. Dominick unter Benutzung einer Handschrift

Webb, Frank: Switzerland of the Swiss

Whymper, Edward: Scrambles Amongst the Alps

Wood, Edith Elmer: An Oberland Châlet

Zsigemondy, Dr. Emil: Im Hochgebirge: Wanderungen

—— Annuaire du Club Alpin Français

—— Geschichte der Vermissungen in der Schweiz, als historische Einleitung zu den Arbeiten der schweiz. geodätischen Commission

—— Musée cantonal vaudois. Antiquités lacustres. Album publié par la Société d’histoire de la Suisse romande et la Société academique vaudoise, avec l’appui du Gouvernement vaudois

INDEX

• Abraham, age of, 433.
• “Abraham’s Sacrifice,” drama by Theodore de Bèze, 41.
• Acaunum, old name of Saint-Maurice, 340, 341.
• Adams, Charles Francis, at Geneva, 248.
• Addison, Joseph, on the Alps, 223;
• makes trip round Lake Leman, 291-294.
• Aeroplane, 279.
• Agassiz, Louis, studies glacial action, 373.
• Agesilaus, hero of Rousseau, 236.
• Aiguille du Midi, 377.
• Aile, Château de l’, 120.
• Airolo, captured, 423.
• Aix-les-Bains, 30.
• Alabama claims, settled at Geneva, 247, 248.
• Albano, Lake of, 34.
• Alexander, Father, gives amulets, 265.
• Allalinhorn, ascent of, 368, 369.
• Allemanni, invasions of, 48;
• relics of, 269, 441.
• Allobrogi, 208;
• attack the Carthaginians, 387;
• freedom loving, 433.
• Alpenglow, 11, 147;
• described by Javelle, 359;
• from Bern, 412.
• Alphubel, the, 369.
• Alpine Club, shelters of the, 362;
• Annuaire of, 372.
• Alps, formation of, 12, 13;
• description of, 163;
• described by Amiel, 184;
• time in crossing, 272;
• effect on Geneva, 293;
• view of, 340, 348, 353;
• motion of, 366;
• ancient passages of, 382;
• from the Lake of Zürich, 441.
• Altorf, 422.
• Amédée VIII, Duc, monument to, at Lausanne, 61.
• Amiel, Henri-Frédéric, quoted, 184, 468.
• Amphion, Spring of, 177.
• Anchor Inn, Byron at, 138.
• Andermatt, capture of, 423.
• Angeville, Mlle. Henriette d’, climbs Mont Blanc, 278.
• Annecy, Madame de Warens at, 239;
• Rousseau at, 240;
• M. Venture at, 243.
• Aoste, 382.
• Apostles, Gate of the (Lausanne Cathedral), 58, 59.
• Ardon, 348.
• Areuse, River, 403.
• Argentière, Mont, seen by Byron, 141, 370, 375.
• Arianna, Musée, treasures of, 269.
• Aristocracy, in Switzerland and Spain, 71.
• Aristotle, hero of Rousseau, 236.
• Arnold, Sir Edwin, poem on Pilatus, 448, 449.
• Arpille, the, 348.
• Art, village of, 309.
• Arval, Mont, 122.
• Arve, River, 123, 162;
• junction with the Rhône, 199, 203;
• in Coleridge, 329;
• in Shelley, 333;
• dammed, 375.
• Arveiron, River, 329.
• Aubigné, T. A. d’, tablet to, 212.
• Aubonne, M. d’, writes a play, 242.
• Aubonne, torrent of, 288.
• Augustus, Emperor, conquers the Wallisi, 343.
• Auldjo, M., shows limit of vision, 273.
• Aulph, Saint Jean d’, hamlet of, 183.
• Auvergnier, lake-dwellings at, 16.
• Auvermé, 404.
• Avalanches, 108, 367, 458.
• Avenches, a modern Pompeii, 408.
• Aventicum, relics of, 408.
• Avignon, 30.
• “Avis au Peuple,” 312.
• Aymon, Count, bestows Chamonix valley, 371.
• Aztecs and Egyptians, 17.
•  
• Bacon, Lord, on travel, 323-325.
• Baedecker’s Guide-book, 322.
• Bagration, 426, 429.
• Bâle (Basel), 78;
• Chatillon at, 251, 404, 439.
• Balfrin, height of the, 352.
• Balgrist, view from the, 440.
• Balmat, Jacques, climbs Mont Blanc, 273-275;
• monument to, 374.
• Balme, Grotte de, 217.
• Banc du Travers, 110.
• Barthélemy, Château de Saint, 51.
• Batiaz, La, castle at, 346.
• Baulion, La Dent de, 297, 298, 300.
• Bears of Bern, 411.
• Beaufort, Antoine de, 127.
• beine, the, 34, 160, 168.
• Bellegarde, 200.
• Bellinzona, 423.
• Belotte, La, view of, 196.
• Bergues, Hôtel des, 197.
• Bern, robs Lausanne, 60;
• takes possession of Lausanne, 63, 72, 78;
• government of, 79;
• separate from Rome, 126;
• persecutes Rousseau, 246;
• joins Geneva, 252;
• lands of, 263;
• receives appeal from Geneva, 267;
• owns Vaud, 292;
• bandière of, 405;
• arcaded streets of, 410;
• militarism of, 419.
• Bern, The Headsman of, 110.
• Bernard, Pass of Saint, 123, 342.
• Berthe, Queen, 48.
• Berthold V, founds Bern, 410.
• Betzberg, 423.
• Bevaix, Abbey of, 403, 404.
• Bex, “smiling village” of, 338.
• Bèze, Theodore de, at Lausanne, 40;
• at Geneva, 257;
• offers prayer, 266.
• Bich, Jean Baptiste, reaches top of Matterhorn, 356.
• Biel, 405.
• Bienne, 78;
• lake of, 246, 408.
• Bionnassay, Glacier of, 272.
• Birds of Lake Leman, 194.
• Bise, la, 138, 162.
• Blackie, John Stuart, poem of, 363.
• Blancherose, Doctor, asks inconvenient questions, 64.
• Blécheret, Jacques, city physician at Lausanne, 311.
• Blegno, Val di, 422.
• Bloch, Baron von, war museum, 446.
• Blonay, castle of, 71, 402.
• Blümlisalp, 108, 413.
• Bobbio, Abbey of, 123.
• Bodensee, 434.
• Bois d’Amont, Le, 302.
• Bois de la Bâtie, 204.
• Bolsec, Jerome, gets better of Calvin, 211, 212.
• Bomilcar, King, 383.
• Bonaparte, Joseph, castle of, 288.
• Bonivard, Francis, career, 126, 127;
• dungeon of, 131;
• character of, 137;
• prison of, 154;
• at University of Geneva, 250;
• petitions Council of University, 256.
• Bonnet, Charles de, influence of, 52.
• Bonneville, 381, 403.
• Bons, M. de, describes rockfall, 190.
• Bonstetten, Karl Viktor von, 52.
• Borgne, the gorge of, 350.
• Bossey, Rousseau at, 228, 236.
• Bossons, Glacier des, 374, 381.
• Boston, at Lausanne, 69.
• Bourbourg, Brasseur de, theory of, 17.
• Bourg, Rue du, 69.
• Bourgoin, 382.
• Bourrit, Marc-Théodore, “Historian of the Alps,” 272;
• discovers the Col du Géant, 273.
• Boutry, 403.
• Bovannaz, 108.
• Boveret, 154.
• Bozen, 444.
• Bregaglia, rockfall at, 291.
• Brenets, Les, 463.
• Bretigny, Seigneur de, gift of, 51.
• Brévent, Le, climbed by De Saussure, 271.
• Brevoort, Miss, attempts Matterhorn, 356.
• Brienz, 452, 459.
• Brionne, Comtesse de, 315.
• Broccone Pass, 444.
• Brogny, Cardinal Jean de, builds chapel, 213;
• attempts to found University of Geneva, 249.
• Brontë, Charlotte, 119.
• Broye, the, 408.
• Brunegghorn, the, 352.
• Brunn, Frederika, “Chamouni at Sunrise,” 327.
• Brutus, hero of Rousseau, 236.
• Bryant, William Cullen, describes the Arve, 376.
• Bultogerus, Henricus, 431.
• Bürkli, Karl, leadership of, 21.
• Byron, Lord, criticizes Switzerland, 87;
• memories of, 121, 135;
• sonnet on Lake of Geneva, 137;
• at Sécheron, 137;
• excursion with Shelley on Lake Leman, 138;
• writes third canto of “Childe Harold,” 140;
• criticized by “Dora d’Istria,” 149;
• at Coppet, 281, 286;
• at Aubonne, 288;
• on music of cowbells, 454.
•  
• Cæsar, Julius, 208;
• names Nyon, 287;
• mentions Octodurus, 342.
• Calvaires, 184.
• Calvin, John, banished by Geneva, 65;
• burial-place of, 209;
• chair of, 211;
• adopted by Geneva, 232;
• lacks monument, 234;
• takes charge of University, 251.
• Calvinism, 72, 75.
• Carcassonne, 29.
• Carrel, Jean Antoine, reaches top of Matterhorn, 356.
• Carrel, Miss, attempts Matterhorn, 356.
• Carthage, destruction of, 382.
• Cassaccia, 422.
• Castillio, driven out of Geneva, 65.
• Cau, Mont, 155.
• Caucasus, the, 32, 33.
• Cenis, Mont, tunnel of, 354;
• used by Hannibal (?), 382.
• Cerjat, Gaston de, buys Château de Saint-Barthélemy, 52.
• Cellemberg, Comte de, sings delicious airs, 94.
• Cerlier, 403.
• Cervin, Le, 350;
• glimpse of, 354-356;
• form of, 357, 369.
• Chablais, 183;
• under Duke of Savoy, 263, 292.
• Chambéry, seized by France, 267;
• Jean Volat de, 311.
• Chamblais, Province of, 123.
• Chamonix, 185;
• summit of, 263, 271;
• discovery of, 279, 372;
• poems on, 327-336;
• name of, 371;
• glaciers at, 373;
• formation of, 374;
• centre of traffic, 377, 451.
• Champéry, starting-point for la Dent du Midi, 185.
• Chandieu, Charles de, 49;
• family of, 49, 50;
• Catherine de, 51, 465.
• Chanvan, Château de, 305.
• Charlemagne, Emperor, presents Saint-Maurice with ewer and crozier, 341.
• Charles II, Duke of Brunswick’s gift to Geneva, 204;
• monument to, 205, 407.
• Charles Emmanuel of Savoy, attacks Geneva, 264;
• characterizes his general, 266.
• Charles Augustus, Duke of Weimar, 308.
• Charles the Bold, defeat of, at Grandson, 62, 402-406.
• Charles III, Duke of Savoy, 128.
• Charles IV, Emperor, attempts to found University at Geneva, 249.
• Charrière, Madame de, writes a play, 94;
• balloon of, 118, 318;
• Professor d’Apples de, 314.
• Chastelard, 403.
• Châtelard, manoir of, 155.
• Chatillon, Sébastien, professor at Geneva, 251.
• Chaumény, mountain, 154.
• Chaumont (at Neuchâtel), 408.
• “Childe Harold,” 140.
• Chillon, Castle of, 106, 121, 122-136;
• described by Juste Olivier, 146;
• finest aspect of, 147;
• described by “Dora d’Istria,” 154;
• mentioned by Rogers, 169;
• from La Dôle, 304.
• “Cid, The,” performed at Geneva, 258.
• Cité, La (Lausanne), 80.
• Clairmont, Jane, with Shelley at Sécheron, 138.
• Clarens, 121, 155, 161.
• Claude, Canonici of Saint, 302.
• Claudius, makes Octodurus market-town, 344.
• Clavel, arms of, 48.
• Clavière, Etienne, banished from Geneva, 267.
• Cluges, 381.
• Cockburn, Sir Alexander J. E., at Geneva, 247.
• Coire, Russians at, 430.
• Col de la Seigne, 382.
• Col du Midi, 370.
• Coleridge discussed, 327-332, 451.
• Collanges, Avenue de, 37, 40.
• Colombier, 404, 463.
• Combin, Le Grand, 106.
• Comte, Auguste, 30.
• Confignon, Rousseau at, 238.
• Conrad, Duke of Zähringen, builds convent, 401.
• Conrad, Emperor, founds Church of St. Peter at Geneva, 210.
• Concise, lake dwellings at, 432.
• Constance, Lake of, 434.
• Constans, 382.
• Constant de Rebecque, Benjamin, as a musician, 95;
• love-affair with Mme. de Staël, 281;
• adoration of, 285.
• Constantin Pavlovitch, Grand Duke, 422, 426, 428.
• Coolidge, W. A. B., describes Matterhorn, 357.
• Cooper, James Fenimore, 109;
• describes Lake Leman, 110, 111;
• on neglected views, 224;
• at Geneva, 261;
• describes Lake Leman, 262, 467.
• Coppet, Barony of, 84;
• mentioned by Rogers, 169;
• Madame de Staël at, 280-286.
• Corcelle, 404.
• Cordier, Mathurin, resigns as professor at Geneva, 251.
• “Corinne,” 281;
• Madame de Staël in character of, 285.
• Cormondrèche, 404.
• Cornaz, Jacques-Daniel, sells Château de l’Isle, 51.
• Corneille, 263.
• Cortailloud, 403.
• Coryat, Thomas, “Crudities” of, 431.
• “Cossacks, The,” quoted, 32.
• Côte, Montagne de la, climbed, 272, 274.
• Courland, Pierre de, 317;
• at Lausanne, 317.
• Couteau, H., painter, 16.
• Crassy (Crassier), town of, 79.
• Credo, Mont, 305.
• Crêt d’eau (Credo), 185.
• Crêtes, Château des, 121.
• Criant, Pierre, 18, 21, 201, 202, 203.
• Crissier, portrait at Château de, 314.
• Crousaz, Jean Pierre de, “Logic” of, 77.
• Crousaz, Madame de (Montolieu), 321.
• Cully, 119.
• Curchod, Mlle. Suzanne, 79;
• her beauty, 80.
• Curchod, Pastor, death of, 82.
•  
• Dard, Cascade du, 381.
• Daudet, Alphonse, 30.
• David fountain at Bern, 412.
• Davoz-Platz, 444.
• Debate between Catholic and Protestant parties, 63, 64.
• Delilah, 438.
• Dent, Blanche, la, 361.
• Dent du Midi, la, 38;
• height of, 66, 105;
• description of, 106;
• ascent of, 185.
• Devil, Swiss names of the, 220.
• Devil’s Bridge, 424;
• granite cross at, 430.
• Devonshire, Georgianna, Duchess of, dinner to, 92.
• Dexter, Lord Timothy, example of, 53.
• Deyverdun, Georges, 56;
• plays the spinet, 94;
• death of, 96;
• inspires Gibbon, 98;
• society founded by, 68;
• early diaries of, 77;
• invites Gibbon to Lausanne, 85, 86;
• indolence of, 88.
• Diablerets, Les, 45;
• dance of Wotan on, 217.
• Diodati, Villa, Byron at, 139.
• Dissentis, 422.
• Dol, town of, 26.
• Dôle, la, 178;
• Gœthe’s ascent of, 295-307.
• Dolomites, the, 9, 401.
• Dom, the, 353.
• Donnerbrühl, 411.
• Dorannaz, 108.
• Douglas, Lord Edward, death of, 355;
• body lost, 356.
• Dranse, La, 162, 180;
• valley of, 183;
• cone of, 193, 342;
• overflow of, 346;
• robbed by the Rhône, 348.
• Druidical rites, 105.
• Ducommun, Abel, Rousseau’s master, 237.
• Dufour, General, places plaques on le Niton, 65;
• reckons heights, 66.
• Duluth, compared in latitude to Lausanne, 112.
• Dumas, Alexandre, Père, quoted, 103.
• Duvillard, map of, 260.
•  
• Ecluse, Fort l’, 305.
• Edelspitze, the, 353.
• Education of Rousseau, 236;
• of French children, 237.
• Egli, Emil, discovers 9th century MS., 340.
• Eiger, the, seen from Bern, 413.
• “Ekkehard,” 434.
• Elephants cross the Rhône, 385;
• pass the Alps, 391.
• Eliot, George, portrait of, at Geneva, 260.
• Elton, Sir Charles Abraham, translator of Silius Italicus, 394.
• Emerson, Ralph Waldo, parodied, 36;
• on travel, 326.
• “Emile,” shocks Calvinists, 233, 466.
• Emmenthal, 150.
• Enoch, Louis, Regent of Geneva University, 251.
• Entebüchel, remains at, 440.
• Enville, Duc d’, studies glacial action, 372.
• Epaune, destruction of, 187.
• Erlach, Rudolf von, statue to, 411.
• Erlenbach, 221.
• Ermenonville, Rousseau dies at, 246.
• Escalade, fountain of the, 264;
• episode of, 264-266.
• Escher, Alfred, autocracy of, 21.
• Escheray, Comte d’, trips with Rousseau, 463.
• Estavayer, Catherine de, loved by Otho de Grandson, 60.
• Estavayer, Gérard de, duel with Otho de Grandson, 60.
• Etruscans, perhaps settled Zürich, 433.
• Eugster, Fidèle, aerial railway of, 377.
• Evarts, William M., at Geneva, 248.
• Everest, Mount, 33.
• Evian, Byron and Shelley at, 139;
• night at, 177.
• Evionnaz, catastrophe at, 188.
• Eynard, Charles, Life of Dr. Tissot, 13-18.
•  
• Fairy of Lake Leman, The, 114.
• Falzarego, new road of the, 444.
• “Fanime,” Voltaire’s play, 465.
• Farel, banished by Geneva, 65.
• Faucigni (Faucigny), mountains of, 263, 296.
• Faucille, Col de la, 466.
• Faulhorn, the, 352.
• Félicité, Col de, 356.
• Felix V, Pope, at Lausanne, 61, 62.
• Ferney, 169, 197, 464.
• Finetta, 218, 337.
• Finsteraarhorn, the, 108;
• seen from Bern, 413.
• Fish of Lake Leman, 194.
• Flegère, view from, 381.
• Flims, derivation of, 192.
• Flon, River, 69, 75.
• Flowers of the Alps, 152, 450.
• Fog, Alpine, 156, 177, 299.
• Fontaine, Mme. de, Voltaire’s letter to, 464.
• Forces Motrices at Geneva, 199.
• Forclaz, Col de la, 310.
• Forel, M., 34.
• Foron, torrent of, 193.
• Four Cantons, Lake of, 444, 450.
• Franche-Comté, 300, 303, 361.
• François I, court of, 40.
• Fraumünster, the, at Zürich, 436.
• Frederick the Great, 246;
• treated by Dr. Tissot, 314.
• Frères Mineurs, Monastery of the, 249.
• Fribourg, Rousseau at, 243;
• bandière of, 405;
• charm of, 409, 439.
•  
• Gabelhorn, the, conquered, 353.
• Galba, holds council of war, 342.
• Gallatin, Albert, in America, 256.
• Gallatin, Jean, buys University gardens at Geneva, 256.
• Garnier, comedy by, performed at Geneva, 258.
• Géant, Col de, discovered by Bourrit, 273;
• sunset from, 276, 278.
• “Geierstein, Anne of,” 173, 180;
• tower of, described by Sir Walter Scott, 173-176.
• Geneva, 30, 34, 41, 65;
• harbour of, 65, 138;
• centre of Calvinism, 73;
• typhoid fever at, 113;
• children of, 126;
• lawsuit with Vaud, 161, 195, 197-267;
• pride in Rousseau, 232;
• streets of, 246;
• Alabama claims settled at, 248;
• University of, 249-260;
• Constitution of, 267;
• described by Addison, 292;
• Château de Monnitier, 295;
• fog over, 299;
• trophy at, 407;
• Voltaire at, 464.
• Geneva, Lake of, phenomena of, 109;
• described by J. F. Cooper, 110, 111;
• depth of, 112;
• fairy of, 114;
• first steamboat on, 115;
• described by Byron, 135;
• his sonnet to the lake of Geneva, 137;
• described by Dora d’Istria, 150;
• in winter, 156;
• sunset on, 158;
• islands in, 160;
• rise of, 161;
• winds of, 162;
• described by Rogers, 170;
• fascinations of, 182;
• birds of, 194;
• origin of name, 208;
• Madame de Staël on, 222;
• Rousseau’s apostrophe to, 230;
• Rousseau’s farewell to, 231;
• made famous by Rousseau, 246;
• described by Cooper, 262;
• view from Aubonne, 288;
• Addison on, 291;
• fog on, 304;
• from Madame de Crousaz’s, 321;
• shores of, 340;
• compared with Lake of Zürich, 441.
• Genlis, Madame de, on neglected views, 224;
• at Lausanne, 320;
• visits Voltaire, 466.
• Genthod, home of scientists, 269, 275.
• Geology, 11, 12, 13, 14, 34, 35, 192, 222, 290, 348.
• Gesner, Konrad von, 40.
• Gex, Bonivard at, 127;
• under France, 292, 303.
• Gibbon, Edward, 43, 55;
• on caste, 71;
• secures a maid-servant, 90;
• prestige of, 91;
• characterized, 94;
• finishes History, 96;
• love for nature, 98;
• requirements in a wife, 100;
• converted to Catholicism, 74;
• converted back to Orthodoxy, 77;
• trip through Switzerland, 78;
• engaged to Suzanne Curchod, 81, 82;
• letter about the Neckers, 84;
• fame of, 85;
• wit of, 86;
• aspect of, 88;
• manner of life of, 89;
• in Byron’s sonnet, 137;
• mentioned by Rogers, 169;
• reports political situation of Geneva to Lord Sheffield, 267;
• and the Neckers, 280;
• nickname of, 281;
• dances the minuet, 318.
• Giessbach, 452.
• Glaciers, 187, 275, 357, 358, 365;
• action of, studied, 372, 373, 374, 375, 456.
• Glarus, stones from, 221, 427;
• captured, 429.
• Gloucester, Duke of, at Lausanne, 317.
• Gobbera Pass, 444.
• Gobelin tapestries, 49.
• Goethe, Johann Wolfgang von, 159, 263;
• asks advice of De Saussure, 277, 307;
• climbs La Dôle, 295-307;
• helps Schiller, 451.
• Goldau, 308, 309.
• Goliath, 412, 418.
• Gorner glacier, 351, 359;
• grat, 364;
• avalanche from, 367.
• Göschenen Valley, 423.
• Gothard, Saint (Gotthard), R. R., 22.
• Goujon, Jean, sculpture of, at Geneva, 255.
• Gourze, Tower of, 48.
• Goutier, Captain, duel with Isaac Rousseau, 236.
• Grammont, Le, 163;
• ascent of, 166;
• views from, 166, 167.
• Grandson, Otho de, duel of, 60, 61;
• castle of, 402;
• battle of, 403-407.
• Gräppelen, origin of name, 288.
• Gray, Thomas, 308;
• quoted, 453.
• Gregory X, Pope, 58.
• Grenoble, 30.
• Grimsel-Pass, 373, 461.
• Grindelwald, 458, 461.
• Grisons, hotel-keepers of the, 370, 430.
• Gross-Münster at Zürich, 438.
• Grotte, La, bequeathed by Georges Deyverdun, 97;
• tower of, 62.
• Gruet, Jacques, tortured, 65.
• Gruyères, shepherds of, 108.
• Gstaad, name of, 287.
• Guibert, Comte de, and Mlle. Necker, 281.
• Guizot, 30.
• Gurten, view from the, 412.
•  
• Hadloub, poem by, 437.
• Hadow, David, loses life, 355.
• Haller, Albrecht von, influence of, 52.
• Handeck Fall, 461.
• Hannibal, passage of the Alps, 382-399;
• boats of, 433.
• Hanno commands troops, 383.
• Hapsburgs, the, 442.
• Harold, Childe, 31.
• Harpe, General F. C. de la, 160, 161;
• Ile de la, 160.
• Harvard University, Albert Gallatin at, 256;
• like Geneva University, 258.
• Hauk, Minnie, 446.
• Haute-Champagne, 361.
• Havergal, Frances Ridley, describes la Tête Noire, 371.
• Heine, quoted, 11.
• Heliogabalus, Emperor, 208.
• Héloïse, La Nouvelle, 70, 150, 280.
• Helvetia, Eye of, 47.
• Helvetii, capital of the, 408.
• Himalaya, mountains of the, 362.
• Henry IV, 212.
• Hercules, 438.
• Hérens, Val d’, 350.
• Hesse-Wartegg, Ernst von, 446.
• Hessians as mercenaries, 69.
• Hetch-Hetchy valley, 202.
• Hobhouse, John Cam, with Lord Byron, 136.
• Hockthorn, the, 455.
• Hogg, Thomas Jefferson, calls Chillon ugly, 124.
• Hohberghorn, the, 352.
• Hoffmann, Jacques, 467.
• Hohentwil, Castle of, 434.
• Holmes, Oliver Wendell, 409.
• Holroyd, Maria, surprised at Gibbon’s choice of Lausanne, 90.
• Holroyd, J. B., see Sheffield, Lord.
• Hospinianus, Rodolphus, 431.
• Houghton, Lord, poem on English travellers, 87.
• Huascaran, Mt., 33.
• Hudson, Charles, attains top of Matterhorn, 355.
• Hughes de Pierre, chronicle of, 403-406.
• Hugo, Victor, autograph of, at Chillon, 135;
• dislikes Geneva, 206, 266;
• describes sunset, 308-310.
• Huns (Saracens) incursion of, 48.
• Huss, John, 435.
• Hutten, Ulrich von, 442.
• Hydro-aeroplane, on Lake Leman, 115, 116, 117.
• Hypsometry, bases of Swiss, 65.
•  
• Icarus, feelings of, 118.
• Ilanz, 430.
• Illens, family of d’, 60.
• Imfeld relief-maps, 364.
• “Indergand, Albin,” 421.
• Initiative and referendum, value of, 19, 20.
• Insurance, Workmen’s Compulsory, 23.
• Interlaken, 452.
• Isle, Château de l’, 49.
• Istria, Dora d’, criticizes Lord Byron, 149;
• describes Lake Leman, 150-159.
•  
• Jaman, Dent de, 105, 107, 121.
• Javelle, Etienne, describes a rock-fall, 186-191;
• tells about the dragon of the Jorat, 219;
• climbs Matterhorn, 356;
• describes sunset from Matterhorn, 358.
• Javernaz, 108.
• Jews, prejudice against, 21, 124.
• Johnson, Samuel, refuses to shake hands with a freethinker, 91.
• Jolimont, stones of, 221.
• Jorat, Heights of, 46, 47, 103, 127, 168;
• Col de, 186;
• dragon of, 219.
• Joseph II, Emperor, secures Dr. Tissot place at Pavia, 314.
• Jost, Haldebrandt, exorcises rockfall, 188.
• Joux, L’Abbaye de, 301.
• Jungfrau, 10, 11, 33, 108;
• seen from Le Grammont, 166;
• from Bern, 413, 452.
• Jura, the, 46, 79, 93;
• at night, 142;
• inhabitants of, 163;
• seen from Le Grammont, 166;
• pine-clad heights of, 171;
• forests of, 181;
• from Geneva, 255;
• torrents of, 280;
• character of, 290;
• Addison on, 293;
• meaning of, 297;
• stone from, 346;
• profile of, 361;
• view of, 401.
•  
• Kamor, the, 108.
• Kant, Immanuel, 119;
• description of Switzerland, 326;
• on freedom, 433.
• Kauffman, Angelica, paints portrait of Dr. Tissot, 314.
• Keith, Marshal, welcomes Rousseau, 246.
• Keller, Ferdinand, discoveries of, 432.
• Kilauea, lava-flow on, 55.
• Kinzig pass, Russians in the, 425.
• Kipfen, gorge of, 352.
• Kletsgerberg, 455.
• Klöntalersee, the, 428.
• Kóltsova-Masalskaya, the Princess Helena, criticizes Lord Byron, 149;
• describes Lake Leman, 150-159.
• Köppen, Herr, plays the flute, 95.
• Korsákof, defeated at Zürich, 427.
• Kubel, Nicolas, climbs Matterhorn, 356.
• Kunchinjunga, 33.
• Kunoskephale, meaning of, 107.
•  
• Lake-dwellers, 16, 17, 34, 161, 432.
• Lambert, Saint, silenced by Rousseau, 232.
• Landeron, 403, 405.
• Langenthal, linen-market of, 79.
• Langern, M. de, 405.
• Laupen, 411.
• Lausanne, 8, 30, 34, 35, 38, 40, 45, 47;
• cathedral of, 42, 57, 60, 64, 66;
• university of, 40, 42, 43, 45;
• name of, 53, 54;
• stone of, 57;
• subject to Bern, 63, 64;
• size of, 69;
• education at, 70;
• people of, 75, 158;
• emigrés at, 89;
• forest of, 105;
• situation of, 112;
• memories of, 121;
• mentioned by Rogers, 168;
• life in, 182;
• Rousseau at, 243;
• Mathurin Cordier at, 251;
• Addison at, 294;
• seen from La Dôle, 296;
• Goethe at, 308;
• Tissot at, 311-321;
• Bishop of, at Fribourg, 409;
• hurt by Pilate, 448.
• Lavey, spring discovered at, 187.
• Law, William John, on Hannibal’s passage of the Alps, 382.
• Lebrun, Madame, portrait of Madame de Staël, 285.
• Leman, Lake, phenomena of, 109;
• described by J. F. Cooper, 110, 111;
• depth of, 112;
• Fairy of, 114;
• first steamboat on, 115;
• described by Byron, 135;
• in “Childe Harold,” 141-145;
• described by “Dora d’Istria,” 150;
• in winter, 156;
• sunset on, 158;
• islands in, 160;
• rise of, 161;
• winds of, 162;
• described by Rogers, 169;
• fascination of, 182;
• birds of, 194;
• origin of name, 208;
• Madame de Staël on, 222;
• Rousseau’s apostrophe to, 230;
• Rousseau’s farewell to, 231;
• made famous by Rousseau, 246;
• described by Cooper, 262;
• by Auguste de Sales, 263;
• view from Aubonne, 288;
• Addison on, 291;
• fog on, 304;
• from Madame de Crousaz’s, 321;
• shores of, 340;
• compared with Lake Zürich, 441.
• Lessert, family of, own Château de Saint-Barthélemy, 51.
• “Lettres de la Montagne,” Rousseau’s, cause hubbub in Geneva, 234.
• Liène, crossing of the, 350.
• Limmat, valley of the, 440.
• Lion of Lucerne, 452.
• Lis, Dent de, 108.
• Lisbon, earthquake of, 110, 466.
• Liubomirska, Princess, expelled from Lausanne, 316.
• Lizards at Montreux, 152.
• Loetschberg, tunnel of the, 354.
• London, Lausanne preferred to, 90.
• Lorraine, Prince Louis de, 315.
• Louis le Débonnaire, 122.
• Loup, Plains of La, 62.
• Lovenex, Lake of, 163.
• Lowerz, Lake of, 309.
• Loys, Sebastien Isaac de, 462.
• Lubbock, Sir John, quoted, 12, 13;
• on beauty of high snow-fields, 364.
• Lucerne, Lake, 34;
• bandière of, 405;
• horns of, 406;
• lion of, 452.
• Lucerne, City of, 78, 180.
• Luternan, Auguste de, first bailiff of Chillon, 128.
• Luther, Martin, 442.
• Lutin, Salle, treasures of the, 260.
• Lutry, 105, 119.
• Lützelau, Island of, 422.
•  
• Maeterlinck, Maurice, 94, 126.
• Magenhorn, the, 352.
• Maintenon, Madame de, 213.
• “Manfred,” quoted, 455, 457, 458, 459.
• Mannes, Heinrich, founds Library, 436.
• Mannesse, Rüdiger, song books of, 436.
• Mansard, Francois, architect, 49.
• Maracaibo, Lake, piles on, 16, 17.
• Maria Theresa tries to engage Dr. Tissot, 314.
• Marsens, Renée de, 48.
• Martel, Pierre, visits Chamonix, 372.
• Martel, S. A., quoted, 202.
• Martigny, Roman remains at, 342-346;
• return to, 370.
• Martin, Tower of Saint, 120;
• miracles of, 461.
• Martinach, 307.
• Masséna, 427.
• Matterhorn, 350;
• glimpse of, 354;
• conquest of, 354-356;
• form of, 357, 369.
• Matter-Visp, the, 368.
• Mattmark See, boulder near, 221.
• Maurice, Saint, described by Rogers, 340;
• mutiny at, 340-342.
• Mauricius, leader of Thebaean legion, 341.
• Maximilian, Emperor, enrolls legion, 340.
• Mediterranean, the, 35, 46;
• not seen from Mont Blanc, 273.
• Meillerie, squall off, 139;
• quarries of, 168, 320.
• Mercier, 91.
• Mer de Glace, movement of the, 373.
• Meschersky, Prince, killed, 425.
• Meyringen, 452.
• Mex, estate of, 51.
• Midi, Dent du, 38, 66, 105.
• Milan, 123.
• Milyutin, Nikolaï, quoted, 425, 426.
• Mirage, on Lake Leman, 114.
• Misaucus, Barons of, 287.
• Mischabel, the, 361.
• Mittaghorn, the, 352.
• “Modern Painters,” Ruskin’s, quoted, 199.
• Moléson, described and sung, 108.
• Moncels, les Sept, 302, 303.
• Mönch, the, seen from Bern, 413.
• Monnetier, Château de, 295.
• Mon Repos, at Lausanne, 317, 464.
• Monrion, château of Voltaire, 463.
• Montagny, Major Georges de Molin de, inherits La Grotte, 97.
• Mont-Allègre, Shelley at, 139.
• Montana, plateau of, 357.
• Mont Blanc, 33, 45, 107, 111;
• seen by Byron, 141;
• Alpenglow on, 147;
• seen from Le Grammont, 166;
• described by Rogers, 171;
• view of from Geneva, 216;
• route to, 271;
• curiosities of, 276;
• first women to climb, 278;
• Bride of, 279;
• view from Nyon, 288;
• seen from La Dôle, 296, 300;
• Coleridge’s poem to, discussed, 327-332;
• named, 372;
• Thomas Moore on, 380.
• Mont Blanc, Quai du (at Geneva), 196, 205.
• Mont du Chat, 382.
• Montet, boulder at, 221.
• Montez, Col des, 370.
• Montgolfier Brothers, balloon of, 118.
• Monthey, boulders near, 222.
• Montigl, origin of name, 287.
• Montolieu, Madame de, 281, 321.
• Montreux, 115, 121, 123;
• shops of, 128, 151;
• views from, 153;
• the Riviera of Switzerland, 459;
• Narcissus Festival, 467.
• Montyon, Baron Auget de, at Lausanne, 317.
• Moore, Thomas, poem on Mont Blanc, 380.
• Morat, battle of, 63;
• Lake of, 373, 405, 408.
• Morcles, Dent de, 105, 187, 348.
• Morge, the, 161, 348.
• Morges, 289.
• Moritz, Saint, 468.
• Mozon, the River, 178.
• Mulets, les Grands, 378;
• les Petits, 274, 279.
• Muotta, the, 425, 428.
• Murray, John, Byron’s letter to, 140.
• Muveran, le Grand, 45.
•  
• Naegueli, Jean François, takes possession of Lausanne, 64.
• Napoleon, called a Genghis Khan, 95;
• reviews army, 96;
• mentioned by Rogers, 171, 288, 391;
• foresight of, 417;
• a myth, 451.
• Napoleon III, 204.
• Narcissus Festival, 467.
• Naye, Rochers de, 105, 107.
• Necker, Jacques, marries Mlle. Suzanne Curchod, 84;
• Director of Treasury of France, 85;
• purchases barony of Coppet, 280.
• Nemi, Lake of, 34.
• Nernier, 195;
• la Pointe de, 110.
• Neuburg, Lake of, 305.
• Neuchâtel, lacustrians of, 18, 78;
• meeting at, 373;
• troops at, 403;
• gift to, 407.
• Neuchâtel, Lake of, 34, 178, 402;
• ghost of, 217;
• mountains of, 300.
• Neuhaus, 456.
• Ney, Marshal, 266.
• Niagara Falls, 203, 377, 452, 462.
• Nice, route to, 369.
• Niège, Crêt de la, 178.
• Niton, Pierre de, 223.
• Noir Mont, 297, 299, 301, 303.
• Noirmontier, Island of, 23.
• North Sea, 35.
• Novel, 162, 163.
• Novi, battle of, 421.
• Nozon, the, 47.
• Nyon, origin of name, 287;
• poem on, 288;
• Addison at, 295, 307.
•  
• Oberalp Lake, 422, 423.
• Oberhasli, Valley of, 459.
• Oberland, Bernese, 306, 370, 460.
• Oche, la Dent d’, 163.
• Octodurus, old name of Martigny, 342;
• captured by Romans, 343.
• Oelenschlæger, Adam Gottlob, 285.
• Oeningen, fossils of, 15.
• Oeusannaz, 108.
• Oex, Château d’, 455.
• Olivier, Juste, Swiss poet, quoted, 67, 68, 108;
• describes Chillon, 146;
• describes the Rhône, 336-338;
• advises Alpine climbing, 339;
• describes les Vignerons, 467, 468.
• Omar Khayyâm, 41, 408.
• Omblière, fishing-bank of, 154.
• Orbe, the River, 401.
• Ordre du Collège, at Geneva, 257.
• Orlof, Prince Gregory, at Lausanne, 316.
• Orlova, Princess, tomb of, at Lausanne, 61.
• Ortler, the, 361.
• Ouchy, 36, 103;
• Byron at, 138;
• waves at, 162.
• Oxford, expels Gibbon, 74.
•  
• Paccard, Dr. Michel, reaches top of Mont Blanc, 274;
• unjust claims of, 275.
• Pache, Samuel (Gibbon’s protégé), 90.
• Paderewski, Ignaz, villa of, 446.
• Palermo, 445.
• Palmer, Sir Roundel, at Geneva, 248.
• Panixer Pass, snow on, 429.
• Paudèze, valley of the 104.
• Paul, Grand Duke of Russia, at Lausanne, 317.
• Pavilliard, Daniel, character of, 75;
• discussions with, 77;
• letter to Mrs. Porten, 78.
• Pavilliard, Madame Carbonella, meanness of, 75.
• Peacock, Thomas Love, Byron’s letter to, 139, 140.
• Peilz, Tour de, 121;
• Ilot de, 160.
• Pélerin, Mont, 48.
• Perrinists, enemies of Calvin, 252.
• Perte du Rhône, La, 201.
• Pestalozzi, Johann Heinrich, school of, 402.
• Peter, Church of Saint, Geneva, 210.
• Petrarca, 30.
• Peyron, M. du, botanist, 463.
• Pezay, Marquis de, apostrophe of, 419.
• Pfyn, 351.
• Pheidippides, 410.
• Philippe II, threatens Geneva, 252.
• Phillipin, Syndic of Geneva, pays fine, 253.
• Pichard, Adrien, bridge of, 56.
• Pictet de la Rive, François Jules, 269;
• Raoul, 270.
• Pierra-Portay, tombs at, 104.
• Pierre, Count of Savoy, 121;
• fortifies Chillon, 123;
• at Chillon, 146.
• Pierre Pointue, 378.
• Pierre à Voire, view from, 348.
• Pilate, legend of, 448.
• Pilatus, Mont, 180;
• sunset behind, 308;
• proverb about, 447.
• Pitt, William, might have married Mademoiselle Necker, 281.
• Piz Corvatsch, 444.
• Piz della Marga, 444.
• Piz Grialetsch, 444.
• Piz Güz, 444.
• Piz Kesch, 444.
• Piz Michel, 444.
• Piz Vadret, 444.
• Plainpalais, cemetery of, 204;
• origin of name, 209.
• Planches, Les, 155.
• Plater, Count Broel-, founds Polish Museum, 442.
• Po, plain of the, 393.
• Pococke-Windham party discovers Chamonix, 372.
• Polybius, on Hannibal, 382;
• describes passage of Alps, 383-393.
• Polytechnikum at Zürich, view from, 437.
• Pomponius, Titus, altar of, 346.
• Pont, Le, village of, 298, 299, 301.
• Pontareuse, 403.
• Pontresina, origin of name, 434.
• Pontverre, M. de, attempts to convert Rousseau, 239.
• Pope’s Guard, 69.
• Pordoi, new road of the, 444.
• Potocka, Countess, patient of Dr. Tissot, 315;
• head-dress of, 316.
• Poudrière, Academie de la, 80.
• Prangins, Château de, 288.
• Pregny, 269.
• Printemps, Société du, 80.
• Promenthoux, torrent of, 288.
• “Punica,” quoted, 393.
• Purry, David de, gift to Neuchâtel, 407.
• Pyremont, 200.
•  
• Quebec, compared in latitude to Lausanne, 112.
•  
• Racine, 263.
• Randa, 353.
• Ranz des Vaches, 467.
• Rapperswyl, 442.
• Rasse, La, overwhelmed, 189;
• procession at, 191.
• Ravoire, inscription at, 346.
• Raynal, Abbé, 91.
• Redcliffe, Lady Henrietta Stratford de, 61.
• Redon, Torrent of, 193.
• Reichenbach, Falls of the, 459.
• René, Duke of Lorraine, 411.
• Reuss, the, 423.
• Rheinfelden, battle of, 213.
• Rhentelin, archers of, 403.
• Rhine, the, 47, 178, 192;
• falls of, 435.
• Rhône, the, 30, 45, 47;
• current of, 109, 138, 141, 144, 161;
• les troublons du, 113;
• delta of, 167;
• la correction du, 168;
• valley of, 186;
• blocked, 188, 191;
• junction with the Arve, 199, 204;
• damming of, 200;
• La Perte du, 201;
• boulder near, 222;
• view of, 264;
• guided by Providence, 294;
• described by Juste Olivier, 336-338;
• leap from the Alps, 340;
• as a robber, 348;
• view of, 351;
• might of, 351;
• Les Iles du, 337;
• colour of, 377;
• crossed by Hannibal, 383-387;
• Hannibal’s boats, 433;
• refuses Pilate’s body, 448.
• Riddes, 348.
• Rigi-Kulm, 130, 132;
• Goethe at, 308, 450.
• Rimpfischhorn, the, 369.
• Rinegg, origin of, 287.
• Ripaille, hermitage of, 180.
• Riponne, Place de la, 40.
• Ritz, Raphael, discovers Roman remains, 344.
• Rivers, names of, 54.
• Rocca, Albert de, marries Madame de Staël, 282.
• Roche, Jean, prints Calvin’s “Institution,” 253.
• Rochemont, Sieur de, punished at Geneva, 259.
• Rochers Rouges, 273.
• Rock-falls, 185, 193, 291.
• Rodolphe, Duke of Hapsburg, invades Vaud, 123.
• Rogers, Samuel, on Lake Leman, 169;
• on Rousseau, 238;
• on the Hospice of St. Bernard, 395-399.
• Rohan, Duke of, buried at Geneva, 213.
• Rolle, 289;
• road of the, 444;
• waters of, 312.
• Rome, Gibbon’s journey to, 83.
• Ropraz, Château de, 48.
• Roquemaure, 382.
• Rosa, Monte, 359.
• Rosenberg, Lieutenant-General, bivouacs on Alps, 422;
• drives French, 423;
• protects the Russian rear, 425;
• master-stroke of, 429.
• Roset, Michel, reads Ordre du Collège at Geneva, 257.
• Rossberg, 309.
• Rosstock, the, 425.
• Rothhorn, the, 352, 361.
• Rothschild, Château, 269.
• Rousseau, Isaac, character of, 235;
• duel with Captain Goutier, 236.
• Rousseau, Jean-Jacques, influence of, 52, 119;
• memories of, 121, 135;
• mentioned in Byron’s sonnet, 137;
• criticized by “Dora d’Istria,” 149;
• “Fraternité cup,” invented by, 183;
• Ile Rousseau, 197;
• lover of Nature, 222, 228;
• invitation to Switzerland, 225;
• description of sunrise, 227, 466;
• recipe for mountain-climbing, 229;
• apostrophe to Lake Leman, 230;
• farewell, 231;
• silences Saint-Lambert, 232;
• criticizes Voltaire, 233;
• books burned, 234;
• birth-place marked, 235;
• education of, 236;
• converted to Catholicism, 239;
• writes “Narcisse,” 242;
• at Vevey, 245;
• at Geneva, 245;
• driven out of Neuchâtel, 246;
• describes the Escalade, 266;
• influence of, 282;
• track of, 462;
• trips with Comte d’Escheray, 463.
• Rousses, Lac des, 299, 302, 303.
• Route des Alpes, La, 369.
• Rubli, Le, 108;
• supernatural beings of, 221.
• Rumine, Palais de, 40, 42.
• Ruskin, John, describes the Rhône, 199.
•  
• Saanen, fame of, 455, 456.
• Saas-Fee, 368, 369.
• Saasgrund, 368.
• Saastal, 368.
• Saint-Barthélemy, glen of, 186, 188, 189.
• Saint-Bernard, rocks from, 65, 382;
• Rogers’s poem on, 395-399.
• Sainte-Beuve, Ch. Aug. describes life at Coppet, 282.
• Saint-Cergue, 295, 306, 307.
• Saint-Gingolph, 154, 161, 162.
• Saint-Gingoux, Byron and Shelley at, 140.
• Saint-Lambert, silenced by Rousseau, 232.
• Saint-Laurent, Place de, view of Lausanne Cathedral from, 66.
• Saint-Leonard, 357.
• Saint-Maurice, curé of, 188;
• ancestry of, 340, 382, 391.
• Saint Michel de la Cluse, Abbey of, 371.
• Saint-Niklaus, 353.
• Saint-Sulpice, Grove of, 95, 96, 289.
• Saint-Theodore, founds Abbey of Saint-Maurice, 341.
• Salanfe, Herdsmen of, 219.
• Sales, Auguste de, describes view of Lake Leman, 263.
• Sales, Saint Francis de, life of, 263.
• Salève, the, 261, 264.
• Sallanches, Canons of, 371, 372.
• Samson, 438.
• Sand, George, at Chillon, 135.
• San Francisco, vandals of, 202.
• Saracens, remains of, 434.
• Sarine, River, 60, 409;
• described by Byron, 455.
• Sarnen, 452.
• Sarraz, La, 178.
• Satan, works of, 221.
• Saules, Sentier des, 203.
• Saulnier, see Sonier.
• Saussure, Horace-Bénédict de, measures Leman tides, 110;
• sketch of, 271, 272;
• describes sunset, 276;
• receives visit from Goethe, 277, 307;
• visits Chamonix, 372.
• Sauvebelin, forest of, 105.
• Savoy, mountains of, 53;
• conquered by Bern, 128;
• peaks of, 156;
• Forbes’s Travels in, 222;
• seen from Geneva, 255;
• French invade, 267;
• becomes part of France, 268;
• in haze, 289;
• seen by Goethe, 296;
• Alps of, 339;
• glaciers of, 372.
• Saxon, Castle of, 348.
• Scala, Princes della, 205.
• Schächental, the, 425, 430.
• Schadau, Castle of, 456.
• Scheffel, Viktor von, 434.
• Schiller, Friedrich von, quoted, 218;
• compared to Goethe, 263;
• never in Switzerland, 451.
• Schlegel, August W. von, at Coppet, 281;
• describes Madame de Staël, 284.
• Schneffer, Counsellor, letter to, 284.
• Schwarzhorn, the, 352.
• Schwyz, bandières of, 405, 425, 428.
• Sclopis, Count Federigo, arbitrator of Alabama claims, 248.
• Scott, Sir Walter, never in the Alps, 173;
• quotation from “Anne of Geierstein,” 173-176.
• Seattle, compared in latitude to Lausanne, 112.
• Sécheron, Shelley at, 138.
• Seduni, hold pass, 342.
• Seedorf, 425.
• Seiches, les, explanation of, 109, 110.
• Selli, gorge of, 353.
• Serfs, French, 302.
• Servetus, 41;
• burnt at stake, 65, 246.
• Seti, Gregorio, describes Geneva, 207;
• on St. Peter’s Church, 211, 213;
• on fishing, 214.
• Setirg Dörfli, 444.
• Sévery, Salamon de Charrière de, 51.
• Sévery, Madame de, letters of, 182;
• treated by Dr. Tissot, 313.
• Sheffield, Lord, 84, 86;
• receives letter from Gibbon, 267.
• Shelley, Percy Bysshe, at Chillon, 135;
• at Sécheron, 138;
• poem “Mont Blanc” discussed, 328-336.
• Siebenthal, 405.
• Sierre, 357, 352.
• Signal, the (Lausanne), 44, 53, 317.
• Silberhorn, the, 108.
• Silius Italicus, poem on Hannibal, 393-394.
• Sils, 444.
• Simmenthal, 456.
• Simplon, tunnel of, 45, 354.
• Sion, Bishop of, exorcises a rock-fall, 188.
• Sion, three-legged horse of, 217;
• Goethe at, 308;
• castles at, 346.
• Soleure, 78, 405;
• trophy at, 407.
• Solothurn, mountains of, 300, 305;
• martyrdoms at, 341.
• Sonchaud, 155.
• Sonchaux, Mont, 122.
• Sonier, Antoine, directs “Grande Eschole” at Geneva, 250;
• heckled by the Council, 251.
• Splügen Pass, 430.
• Spyri, Johanna, 468.
• Staël, Madame de, mentioned in Byron’s sonnet, 137;
• mentioned by Rogers, 169;
• cares little for scenery, 222;
• at Coppet, 280-286.
• Staël-Holstein, Baron de, marries Mlle. Necker, 281.
• Stalden, 352, 368.
• Stamepfli, Jacob, arbitrator of Geneva claims, 248.
• Staubbach, the, 200, 452;
• described by Byron, 456, 457.
• Stockalper, Kaspar, builds canal, 166.
• Stockhorn, the, 108.
• Stoves, tiled, 8, 39.
• Strassbourg, mourning in, 417.
• Sudois, Le, wind on Lake Leman, 195.
• Sugana, Val, 444.
• Sully, Duc de, scheme of, 213.
• Suvórof, Field-Marshal, passage of the Alps, 420-430.
• Swiss, characteristics of the, 47;
• freedom of, 167.
• Symonds, John Addington, 444.
•  
• Talent, the River, 401.
• Tanay, lake of, 163.
• “Tancrède,” played at Coppet, 283.
• Tartarin de Tarascon, 30;
• at Chillon, 128, 129.
• Täsch, village of, 353.
• Täschhorn, the, 352.
• Taugwalder, guides, 355.
• Taurus, Mont, fall of, 187.
• Tavernier, J. Baptiste, builds château at Aubonne, 289;
• on Switzerland, 223, 224.
• Tell, William, a myth, 129, 451.
• Tendre, Mont, 49, 178.
• Tenevière, described, 161.
• Tennyson, Alfred, quoted, 117;
• on Monte Rosa, 367.
• Territe, 121.
• Tête Noire, described, 370, 371.
• Tevent, Hill of, 352.
• Thebaean Legion, 340, 341.
• Theodorus, Bishop, 347.
• Théodule glacier, 359;
• pass, 347.
• Thièle River, 401.
• Thonon, wines of, 182;
• beauty of, 183.
• Thun, 460.
• Thun, Lake of, 413, 456.
• Ticknor, George, at Coppet, 281.
• Tinère, torrent of, 122.
• Tines, Passage des, 375.
• Tissot, Dr. Auguste, 91;
• sketch of, 311-321;
• house of, 464.
• Toepfer, R., novels of, 415, 450.
• Toggenburg, Count Krafto von, 436.
• Tolstoï, Count L. N., 340, 418.
• Totensee, der, 461.
• Touguës, Port de, 195.
• Tourbillon, Château de, 348.
• Trebbia, battle of the, 421.
• Treytorrens, M. de, lover of music, 244.
• Trient, les Gorges du, 307, 370.
• Trifthorn, the, 352.
• Trilex, 295.
• Triphon, Saint, once an island, 104.
• Trois Arbres, Les, expedition to, 264.
• Troublons du Rhône, les, 113.
• Trümmelbach, 200.
• Tunnels, 354.
• Turin, Rousseau at, 242.
• Turner, J. F. T., depicts Switzerland, 168.
• Turretini, engineer of Geneva, 199.
• Tyndall, Professor, conquers the Weisshorn, 353-356.
• Typhoid fever at Geneva, 113.
• Tyrol, trip to the, 443.
•  
• Ufenau, Island of, 442.
• Unterwald, 405.
• Urner Loch, 423, 462.
• Urserental, 374.
• Ury, trumpet of, 406.
• Usteri, Léonard, poem by, 230.
•  
• Valais, giants of le, 361.
• Valeria, Castle of, 349.
• Vapours, origin of, 230.
• Vaud, Pays de, 68;
• aristocracy of, 71;
• women of, 152;
• landscapes of, 230;
• meaning of, 287;
• under Bern, 291.
• Vaumarcus, 406.
• Venezuela, 16, 17.
• Venice, beginnings of, 17.
• Venoge, the River, course of, 178.
• Veragri, hold pass, 342.
• Veraye, torrent of, 122.
• Vergil, 393.
• Vernes, sermon of Pastor, 467.
• Vernet, Jacob, writes Rousseau, 234.
• Vernex, 116, 118, 121;
• gulf of, 157.
• Verraux, Rochers de, 105.
• Versonnex, François de, endows High School at Geneva, 249.
• Vevey, 103, 119;
• misfortunes of, 120;
• possesses Chillon, 128;
• mentioned by Rogers, 169;
• from La Dôle, 304, 344.
• Vevey-La-Tour, 120.
• Veveyse, torrent of, 123.
• Veytaux, 155, 156, 157.
• Victor Amédée of Savoy, 181.
• Victor, Priory of Saint, 126.
• Vienna, Pilate at, 448.
• Vienne, 382.
• Views, mountain, 44, 53.
• Vignerons, Abbaye des, 467.
• Villeneuve, 147, 161, 168, 336.
• Villette, 119.
• Vinet, Alexandre Rodolphe, 41, 42.
• Viollet-le-Duc, 42.
• Viret, Pierre, 40;
• wins debate, 64.
• Viso Alps, 361.
• Visp, the, 350, 352, 353.
• Voirons, the, view from, 261.
• Voltaire, 49, 85, 119;
• mentioned in Byron’s sonnet, 137, 197;
• neglects view, 222;
• criticized by Rousseau, 233;
• at Ferney, 282;
• example of, 460;
• theatrical ventures of, 463;
• letters from, 464;
• dress of, 465;
• prayer of, 466;
• mocks Pastor Vernes, 467.
• Vouvry, 166.
• Vuache, Mont, 305.
• Vuarnen, Château de, 295.
• Vully, 403.
•  
• Waalwyck, Madame de, gives a concert, 94.
• Wahlenstadt, 287.
• Waite, Morrison, at Geneva, 248.
• Waldmann, improves Cathedral of Zürich, 439.
• Walker, Miss Lucy, climbs Matterhorn, 356.
• Walla, Count, 123.
• Wallensee, 427.
• Wallisi, hold the Dranse, 342;
• put to flight, 343.
• Warens, Madame de, 72;
• robs her husband, 239;
• gets money from Rousseau, 245, 462.
• War Museum at Lucerne, 446.
• Waserus, Gaspar, 431.
• Washington, 352.
• Weather proverbs, 102.
• Weisshorn, view of the, 351, 361.
• Welch, origin of, 287.
• Wengern Mountain, 457.
• Werner, Zacharias, at Coppet, 284;
• letter to Counsellor Schneffer, 284, 285;
• characteristics of, 285.
• Wetterhorn, 457.
• Wetzikon, Elizabeth von, 437.
• Wetzweil, 221.
• Weyrother, Colonel, a poor guide, 422.
• Whymper, Edward, climbs the Matterhorn, 355.
• Winterthür, 39.
• Wordsworth, quoted, 3.
• Würtemburg, Duchess of, appears at a picnic, 95.
•  
• Yolande, Duchess of Savoy, 62.
• Yverdon, 35, 78, 401.
• Yvoire, Point d’, 193;
• beauty of, 194, 195.
•  
• Zahn, Ernst, 421.
• Zähringen, Berthold V, of, 41.
• Zähringen, Conrad, Duke of, 402.
• Zähringen-Kyburg, Castle of, 460.
• “Zaïre,” 464;
• played at Coppet, 283.
• Zauchet, giant ox of, 217.
• Zeppelin dirigible, 45.
• Zermatt, blue-haired donkey of, 217;
• views from, 354.
• Zermettje, châlets of, 353.
• Zug, Lake of, 309.
• Zürich, politics in, 21, 23, 78;
• receives appeal from Geneva, 267;
• martyrdoms at, 341;
• bandières of, 404;
• visit to, 414-420, 431-443;
• battle of, 419, 440.
• Zürich, Lake of, 150;
• colour of, 441.
• Zwingli, 435, 442.