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The steeple-jack's instructor

Chapter 22: TOP OF POLES
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About This Book

A practical manual that teaches the trade of steeple-jacking, offering step-by-step methods for rigging, climbing, and repairing tall structures such as smokestacks, towers, standpipes, water tanks, church spires, flagstaffs, and poles. It explains how to enter the trade, emphasizes safety and professional conduct, and details rigging techniques both with and without gimblet wires, reguying, tripping, handling decayed or lined stacks, and installing ladders and self-supporting fittings. A substantial section catalogs knots, hitches, bends and their uses. Practical advice on pricing, workmanship, and time management rounds out the handbook as a tradesman’s guide to maintaining and inspecting lofty structures.

TOP OF POLES

At any time you are working on a flagpole and the work consists of replacing a truck, ball or spindle, the only thing to do is to make sure of the pole being solid enough for a little swaying. If so, take a sling, lash yourself to the pole under the arms as a back brace, then reach up and pull yourself up and stand in the chair. Avoid shaking the pole as much as you possibly can. Then draw up the saw.

Saw off about one foot of the top, take a brace and bit, drill the holes, chip off around the edges and set your new truck on. The spindle should be set about from 8 to 10 inches down in the pole, then wedge in with small sticks to make it solid.

In painting a flagpole use the halyard to hold your paint. Twist the rope several times to keep it at the same distance as yourself. In painting a pole work down as you work up.

Working the Top of a Flagstaff

S Hook Used for Tripping Purpose

Swivel Snap

Cleat

Top of Flagstaff

Five-inch Brush Is Mostly Used by Steeple-Jacks

Come-along Used for Tightening Guy Wire

Double Steel Ball-bearing Block Is Preferred by the Stack Man

Single Steel Block

Clip

Guy Wire with Clips

Turn-buckle

Gimblet Block

Extension Ladder