A TRAMP ABROAD
Illustrations taken from an 1880 First Edition
ILLUSTRATIONS:
CONTENTS
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I A Tramp over Europe—On the Holsatia—Hamburg—Frankfort-on-the-Main—How it Won its Name—A Lesson in Political Economy—Neatness in Dress—Rhine Legends—“The Knave of Bergen” The Famous Ball—The Strange Knight—Dancing with the Queen—Removal of the Masks—The Disclosure—Wrath of the Emperor—The Ending |
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II At Heidelberg—Great Stir at a Hotel—The Portier—Arrival of the Empress—The Schloss Hotel—Location of Heidelberg—The River Neckar—New Feature in a Hotel—Heidelberg Castle—View from the Hotel—A Tramp in the Woods—Meeting a Raven—Can Ravens Talk?—Laughed at and Vanquished—Language of Animals—Jim Baker—Blue-Jays |
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III Baker’s Blue-Jay Yarn—Jay Language—The Cabin—“Hello, I reckon I’ve struck something”—A Knot Hole—Attempt to fill it—A Ton of Acorns—Friends Called In—A Great Mystery—More Jays called A Blue Flush—A Discovery—A Rich Joke—One that Couldn’t See It |
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IV Student Life—The Five Corps—The Beet King—A Free Life—Attending Lectures—An Immense Audience—Industrious Students—Politeness of the Students—Intercourse with the Professors Scenes at the Castle Garden—Abundance of Dogs—Symbol of Blighted Love—How the Ladies Advertise |
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V The Students’ Dueling Ground—The Dueling Room—The Sword Grinder—Frequency of the Duels—The Duelists—Protection against Injury—The Surgeon—Arrangements for the Duels—The First Duel—The First Wound—A Drawn Battle—The Second Duel—Cutting and Slashing—Interference of the Surgeon |
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VI The Third Duel—A Sickening Spectacle—Dinner between Fights—The Last Duel—Fighting in Earnest—Faces and Heads Mutilated—Great Nerve of the Duelists—Fatal Results not Infrequent—The World’s View of these Fights |
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VII Corps—laws and Usages—Volunteering to Fight—Coolness of the Wounded—Wounds Honorable—Newly bandaged Students around Heidelberg—Scarred Faces Abundant—A Badge of Honor—Prince Bismark as a Duelist—Statistics—Constant Sword Practice—Color of the Corps—Corps Etiquette |
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CHAPTER VIII The Great French Duel—Mistaken Notions—Outbreak in the French Assembly—Calmness of M Gambetta—I Volunteer as Second—Drawing up a Will—The Challenge and its Acceptance—Difficulty in Selection of Weapons—Deciding on Distance—M. Gambetta’s Firmness—Arranging Details—Hiring Hearses—How it was Kept from the Press—March to the Field—The Post of Danger—The Duel—The Result—General Rejoicings—The only One Hurt—A Firm Resolution |
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IX At the Theatre—German Ideal—At the Opera—The Orchestra—Howlings and Wailings—A Curious Play—One Season of Rest—The Wedding Chorus—Germans fond of the Opera—Funerals Needed —A Private Party—What I Overheard—A Gentle Girl—A Contribution—box—Unpleasantly Conspicuous |
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X Four Hours with Wagner—A Wonderful Singer, Once—” Only a Shriek”—An Ancient Vocalist—“He Only Cry”—Emotional Germans—A Wise Custom—Late Comers Rebuked—Heard to the Last—No Interruptions Allowed—A Royal Audience—An Eccentric King—Real Rain and More of It—Immense Success—“Encore! Encore!”—Magnanimity of the King |
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XI Lessons in Art—My Great Picture of Heidelberg Castle—Its Effect in the Exhibition—Mistaken for a Turner—A Studio—Waiting for Orders—A Tramp Decided On—The Start for Heilbronn—Our Walking Dress—“Pleasant march to you”—We Take the Rail—German People on Board—Not Understood—Speak only German and English—Wimpfen—A Funny Tower—Dinner in the Garden—Vigorous Tramping—Ride in a Peasant’s Cart—A Famous Room |
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XII The Rathhaus—An Old Robber Knight, Gotz Von Berlichingen—His Famous Deeds—The Square Tower—A Curious old Church—A Gay Turn—out—A Legend—The Wives’ Treasures—A Model Waiter—A Miracle Performed—An Old Town—The Worn Stones |
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XIII Early to Bed—Lonesome—Nervous Excitement—The Room We Occupied—Disturbed by a Mouse—Grow Desperate—The Old Remedy—A Shoe Thrown—Result—Hopelessly Awake—An Attempt to Dress—A Cruise in the Dark—Crawling on the Floor—A General Smash-up—Forty-seven Miles’ Travel |
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XIV A Famous Turn—out—Raftsmen on the Neckar—The Log Rafts—The Neckar—A Sudden Idea—To Heidelberg on a Raft—Chartering a Raft—Gloomy Feelings and Conversation—Delicious Journeying—View of the Banks—Compared with Railroading |
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CHAPTER XV Down the River—German Women’s Duties—Bathing as We Went—A Handsome Picture: Girls in the Willows—We Sight a Tug—Steamers on the Neckar—Dinner on Board—Legend “Cave of the Spectre “—Lady Gertrude the Heiress—The Crusader—The Lady in the Cave—A Tragedy |
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XVI An Ancient Legend of the Rhine—“The Lorelei”—Count Hermann—Falling in Love—A Sight of the Enchantress—Sad Effect on Count Hermann—An Evening visit—A Sad Mistake—Count Hermann Drowned—The Song and Music—Different Trans lations—Curiosities in Titles |
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XVII Another Legend—The Unconquered Monster—The Unknown Knight —His Queer Shaped Knapsack—The Knight Pitied and Advised—He Attacks the Monster—Victory for the Fire Extinguisher—The Knight rewarded—His Strange Request——Spectacles Made Popular—Danger to the Raft—Blasting Rocks—An Inglorious Death in View—Escaped—A Storm Overtakes us—GreatDanger—Man Overboard—Breakers Ahead—Springing a Leak—Ashore Safe—A General Embracing—A Tramp in the Dark—The Naturalist Tavern—A Night’s Troubles—“It is the Cat" |
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XVIII Breakfast in a Garden—The Old Raven—Castle of Hirschhorn—Attempt to Hire a Boat—High Dutch—What You Can Find out by Enquiring—What I Found out about the Students—A good German Custom—Harris Practices It—AnEmbarrassing Position—A Nice Party—At a Ball—Stopped at the Door—Assistance at Hand and Rendered—Worthy to be an Empress |
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XIX Arrive at Neckarsteinach—Castle of Dilsberg—A Walled Town—On a Hill—Exclusiveness of the People—A Queer Old Place—An Ancient Well—An Outlet Proved—Legend of Dilsberg Castle—The Haunted Chamber—The Betrothed’s request—The Knight’s Slumbers and Awakening—Horror of the Lover—The Wicked Jest—The Lover a Maniac—Under the Linden—Turning Pilot—Accident to the Raft—Fearful Disaster |
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XX Good News—“Slow Freight”—Keramics—My Collection of Bric-a-brac—My Tear Jug—Henri II. Plate—Specimen of Blue China—Indifference to the Laugh of the World—I Discover an Antique En-route to Baden—Baden—Meeting an Old Acquaintance—A young American—Embryo Horse Doctor—An American, Sure—A Minister Captured |
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XXI Baden—Baden—Energetic Girls—A Comprehensive Yawn—A Beggar’s Trick—Cool Impudence—The Bath Woman—Insolence of Shop Keepers—Taking a Bath—Early and Late Hours—Popular Belief Regarding Indians—An Old Cemetery—A Pious Hag—Curious Table Companions |
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XXII The Black Forest—A Grandee and his Family—The Wealthy Nabob—A New Standard of Wealth—Skeleton for a New Novel—Trying Situation—The Common Council—Choosing a New Member Studying Natural History—The Ant a Fraud—Eccentricities of the Ant—His Deceit and Ignorance—A German Dish—Boiled Oranges |
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XXIII Off for a Day’s Tramp—Tramping and Talking—Story Telling—Dentistry in Camp—Nicodemus Dodge—Seeking a Situation—A Butt for Jokes—Jimmy Finn’s Skeleton—Descending a Farm—Unexpected Notoriety |
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XXIV Sunday on the Continent—A Day of Rest—An Incident at Church—An Object of Sympathy—Royalty at Church—Public Grounds Concert—Power and Grades of Music—Hiring a Courier |
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XXV Lucerne—Beauty of its Lake—The Wild Chamois—A Great Error Exposed—Methods of Hunting the Chamois—Beauties of Lucerne—The Alpenstock—Marking Alpenstocks—Guessing at Nationalities—An American Party—An Unexpected Acquaintance—Getting Mixed Up—Following Blind Trails—A Happy Half—hour—Defeat and Revenge |
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XXVI Commerce of Lucerne—Benefits of Martyrdom—A Bit of History—The Home of Cuckoo Clocks—A Satisfactory Revenge—The Alan Who Put Up at Gadsby’s—A Forgotten Story—Wanted to be Postmaster—A Tennessean at Washington—He Concluded to Stay A While—Application of the Story |
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XXVII The Glacier Garden—Excursion on the Lake—Life on the Mountains—A Specimen Tourist—“Where’re you From?”—An Advertising Dodge—A Righteous Verdict—The Guide-book Student—I Believe that’s All |
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XXVIII The Rigi-Kulm—Its Ascent—Stripping for Business—A Mountain Lad—An English Tourist—Railroad up the Mountain—Villages and Mountain—The Jodlers—About Ice Water—The Felsenthor—Too Late—Lost in the Fog—The Rigi-Kulm Hotel—The Alpine Horn—Sunrise at Night |
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XXIX Everything Convenient—Looking for a Western Sunrise—Mutual Recrimination—View from the Summit—Down the Mountain—Railroading—Confidence Wanted and Acquired |
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XXX A Trip by Proxy—A Visit to the Furka Regions—Deadman’s Lake—Source of the Rhone—Glacier Tables—Storm in the Mountains—At Grindelwald—Dawn on the Mountains—An Explanation Required—Dead Language—Criticism of Harris’s Report |
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XXXI Preparations for a Tramp—From Lucerne to Interlaken—The Brunig Pass—Modern and Ancient Chalets—Death of Pontius Pilate—Hermit Home of St Nicholas—Landslides—Children Selling Refreshments—How they Harness a Horse—A Great Man—Honors to a Hero—A Thirsty Bride—For Better or Worse—German Fashions—Anticipations—Solid Comfort—An Unsatisfactory \ Awakening—What we had Lost—Our Surroundings |
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XXXII The Jungfrau Hotel—A Whiskered Waitress—An Arkansas Bride—Perfection in Discord—A Famous Victory—A Look from a Window—About the Jungfrau |
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XXXIII The Giesbach Falls—The Spirit of the Alps—Why People Visit Them—Whey and Grapes as Medicines—The Kursaal—A Formidable Undertaking—From Interlaken to Zermatt on Foot—We Concluded to take a Buggy—A Pair of Jolly Drivers—We meet with Companions—A Cheerful Ride—Kandersteg Valley—An Alpine Parlor—Exercise and Amusement—A Race with a Log |
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XXXIV An Old Guide—Possible Accidents—Dangerous Habitation—Mountain Flowers—Embryo Lions—Mountain Pigs—The End of The World—Ghastly Desolation—Proposed Adventure—Reading-up Adventures—Ascent of Monte Rosa—Precipices and Crevasses—Among the Snows—Exciting Experiences—lee Ridges—The Summit—Adventures Postponed |
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XXXV A New Interest—Magnificent Views—A Mule’s Prefereoces—Turning Mountain Corners—Terror of a Horse—Lady Tourists—Death of a young Countess—A Search for a Hat—What We Did Find—Harris’s Opinion of Chamois—A Disappointed Man—A Giantess—Model for an Empress—Baths at Leuk—Sport in the Water—The Gemmi Precipices—A Palace for an Emperor—The Famous Ladders—Considerably Mixed Up—Sad Plight of a Minister |
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XXXVI Sunday Church Bells—A Cause of Profanity—A Magnificent Glacier—Fault Finding by Harris—Almost an Accident—Selfishness of Harris—Approaching Zermatt—The Matterhorn—Zermatt—Home of Mountain Climbers—Fitted out for Climbing—A Fearful Adventure —Never Satisfied |
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XXXVII A Calm Decision—“I Will Ascend the Riffelberg”—Preparations for the Trip—All Zermatt on the Alert—Schedule of Persons and Things—An Unprecedented Display—A General Turn—out—Ready for a Start—The Post of Danger—The Advance Directed—Grand Display of Umbrellas—The First Camp—Almost a Panic—Supposed to be Lost—The First Accident—A Chaplain Disabled—An Experimenting Mule—Good Effects of a Blunder—Badly Lost—A Reconnoiter—Mystery and Doubt—Stern Measures Taken—A Black Ram—Saved by a Miracle—The Guide’s Guide |
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XXXVIII Our Expedition Continued—Experiments with the Barometer—Boiling Thermometer—Barometer Soup—An Interesting Scientific Discovery—Crippling a Latinist—A Chaplain Injured—Short of Barkeepers—Digging a Mountain Cellar—A Young American Specimen—Somebody’s Grandson—Arrival at Riffelberg Botel—Ascent of Gorner Grat—Faith in Thermometers—The Matterhorn |
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XXXIX Guide Books—Plans for the Return of the Expedition—A Glacier Train—Parachute Descent from Gorner Grat—Proposed Honors to Harris Declined—All had an Excuse—A Magnificent Idea Abandoned—Descent to the Glacier—A Supposed Leak—A Slow Train—The Glacier Abandoned—Journey to Zermatt—A Scientific Question |
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XL Glaciers—Glacier Perils—Moraines—Terminal Moraines—Lateral Moraines—Immense Size of Glacier—Traveling Glacier——General Movements of Glaciers—Ascent of Mont Blacc—Loss of Guides—Finding of Remains—Meeting of Old Friends—The Dead and Living—Proposed Museum—The Relics at Chamonix |
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XLI The Matterhorn Catastrophe of 1563—Mr Whymper’s Narrative—Ascent of the Matterhorn—The Summit—The Matterhorn Conquered—The Descent Commenced—A Fearful Disaster—Death of Lord Douglas and Two Others—The Graves of the Two |
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XLII Switzerland—Graveyard at Zermatt—Balloting for Marriage—Farmers as Heroes—Falling off a Farm—From St Nicholas to Visp—Dangerous Traveling—Children’s Play—The Parson’s Children—A Landlord’s Daughter—A Rare Combination—Ch iIIon—Lost Sympathy—Mont Blanc and its Neighbors—Beauty of Soap Bubbles—A Wild Drive—The King of Drivers—Benefit of getting Drunk |
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XLIII Chamonix—Contrasts—Magnificent Spectacle—The Guild of Guides—The Guide—in—Chief—The Returned Tourist—Getting Diploma—Rigid Rules—Unsuccessful Efforts to Procure a Diploma—The Record-Book—The Conqueror of Mont Blanc—Professional Jealousy —Triumph of Truth—Mountain Music—Its Effect—A Hunt for a Nuisance |
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XLIV Looking at Mont Blanc—Telescopic Effect—A Proposed Trip—Determination and Courage—The Cost all counted——Ascent of Mont Blanc by Telescope—Safe and Rapid Return—Diplomas Asked for and Refused—Disaster of 1866—The Brave Brothers—Wonderful Endurance and Pluck—Love Making on Mont Blanc—First Ascent of a Woman—Sensible Attire |
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XLV A Catastrophe which Cost Eleven Lives—Accident of 1870—A Party of Eleven—A Fearful Storm—Note-books of the Victims—Within Five Minutes of Safety—Facing Death Resignedly |
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XLVI The Hotel des Pyramids—The Glacier des Bossons—One of the Shows—Premeditated Crime—Saved Again—Tourists Warned—Advice to Tourists—The Two Empresses—The Glacier Toll Collector—Pure Ice Water—Death Rate of the World—Of Various Cities—A Pleasure Excursionist—A Diligence Ride—A Satisfied Englishman |
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XLVII Geneva—Shops of Geneva—Elasticity of Prices—Persistency of Shop-Women—The High Pressure System—How a Dandy was brought to Grief—American Manners—Gallantry—Col Baker of London—Arkansaw Justice—Safety of Women in America—Town of Chambery—A Lively Place—At Turin—A Railroad Companion—An Insulted Woman—City of Turin—Italian Honesty—A Small Mistake —Robbing a Beggar Woman |
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XLVIII In Milan—The Arcade—Incidents we Met With—The Pedlar—Children—The Honest Conductor—Heavy Stocks of Clothing—The Quarrelsome Italians—Great Smoke and Little Fire—The Cathedral—Style in Church—The Old Masters—Tintoretto’s great Picture—Emotional Tourists—Basson’s Famed Picture—The Hair Trunk |
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XLIX In Venice—St Mark’s Cathedral—Discovery of an Antique—The Riches of St Mark’s—A Church Robber—Trusting Secrets to a Friend —The Robber Hanged—A Private Dinner—European Food |
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L Why Some things Are—Art in Rome and Florence—The Fig Leaf Mania—Titian’s Venus—Difference between Seeing and Describing A Real work of Art—Titian’s Moses—Home |
| APPENDIX |
| A—The Portier analyzed |
| B—Hiedelberg Castle Described |
| C—The College Prison and Inmates |
| D—The Awful German Language |
| E—Legends of the Castle |
| F—The Journals of Germany |