The workwoman's guide

Cut a piece along the selvage, 7 nails long, and three nails wide; double it in half its length, making it only 3½ nails. Let F A (see Fig. 27) be the doubled part, and on the opposite end, measure off one nail from C to B, and cut it off in a direct line from B to A. F D is the front of the hood. The horse-shoe crown (Fig. 26) must be cut next, for which take another piece of 2¼ nails long, down the selvage, and 2 nails wide. Fold it half the width, and slope off a third of a nail from the bottom, B to D, also round off the top. For the tippet or curtain, form a perfect circle, from a square of 8 nails, from which take out the triangular piece (see Fig. 30, A B C), the distance from B to C being 2 nails along the line. In making up the hood, cut a lining of silk or satin the same size; also one of fine flannel, wadding, or demet; then sew the crowns into the head-pieces of each of the three materials separately. The merino hood may be piped with silk or satin, braided with silk braid or worked in chain-stitch, with netting silk, round the horse-shoe crown, after which, place the flannel lining between the merino and silk, and stitch them firmly together with small neat stitches, as close to the piping or braid as possible. Next run them all together at the edges, admitting a piece of chip or thin whalebone to give a little stiffness. Two runners are made three quarters of a nail from the edge, and from each other; these runners must be of sufficient width to admit the three-penny width ribbon. These ribbons are fastened at one side of the hood, and drawn up to the proper size, and then tacked down at the other, leaving sufficient ribbon to allow of the hood being undrawn entirely, when it is wanted; another ribbon is put behind. A rosette of satin ribbon is worn on the left side, if a boy, and in front, if a girl, and a small bow behind. The curtain is sewed on plainly along the horse-shoe, but fulled from thence to the ears.

These hoods will draw out to last a child twelve months after its birth, and will clean well, when of merino.

For children’s hats and bonnets, see Plate 19.

COVER FOR A
BASSINETTE.

PLATE 5. FIG. 1, 2, 3, 4.

A bassinette (see Fig. 4) is a very small cradle made of wicker-work, about 3 feet long, 18 inches wide, and 15 inches high. It is very useful for carrying about, and may be set upon a table, sofa, or bed, taken in a carriage, or even upon the lap with little inconvenience. For a delicate child, and in the winter, it is very desirable, being much warmer than a larger cradle.

Bassinettes are fitted up with a coloured lining under a thin dimity or muslin covering. The lining is sometimes made of white, blue or pink satin or silk, but more generally, and more sensibly, of glazed calico. It should be put on the outside of the wicker-work, and also very neatly fulled in regular folds inside it. The cover is made about half a yard deep down the selvage, and 4½ yards wide. When all the breadths are sewed together, a deep hem is made at the top, with a runner for a string (the hem and runner together to be about 1 nail). If the material is thick, it is better to sew to it, quite plainly, a deep frill, of a finer texture, to give it lightness, instead of having the frill made of the same; through the runner pass a tape, which will draw it all round to the proper size, to fit the body of the cradle; a second hem at the bottom will also be required for the same purpose (see Plate 5, Fig. 1). The head-piece, Fig. 2, is made, so that when drawn up, it will fit the head of the bassinette. Cut a piece of ½ a yard down the selvage, and 1 yard 2 nails in width. As there must be no seam in the width, if the material be not wide enough, it would be better to cut the width down the selvage-way instead. It must be doubled in half the width (the 1 yard 2 nails), see Fig. 2, and sloped off from B to C in a very gradual curve, the space from A to B is 3 nails. Hem each of the two straight sides, and make a runner from B to C for a tape. Next full the straight part, D A, to the exact size round the front of the head; let the fulling lie towards the middle, and when ready, sew on the double frill, which is made of fine clear muslin. The frill, Fig. 3, is cut in strips width-way, of 3 nails each; sew these strips together till you have about 4 yards length of frilling; make a narrow hem on each side of the frill, and then begin to put it upon the front, or fulled part of the head-piece; for this purpose, double the frilling exactly in half, and while thus doubled, allow from the centre ¼ of a nail for the frilling, and make another even crease all along. Open the frills, and turning down at the one side, begin to run; and, dividing it, of course, into quarters, gather it evenly; when done, sew it firmly to the cover, at within ¼ of a nail from the edge; after which, turn down the other outer crease at the proper distance from the centre of the frill, and do the same with it; when ready, sew it on to the edge itself of the head-piece. This frilling should stand up well, and not he flat against the cover; for this end, not quite so much as ¼of a nail should be allowed between the two seams. A ribbon the same colour as the lining runs through the puffing, and fastens the cover on in front, while the tape or ribbon, through the other runner, ties it at the bottom of the head, and draws it up to the right size.

CRADLE COVER.

PLATE 5. FIG. 5, 6, 7, 8.

A cradle merely requires a little drapery over the head, to form curtains, in order to guard the infant from the sun, or from draughts of air, while asleep, and to give an air of comfort and cleanliness.

The drapery should always be perfectly white, of dimity, twilled muslin, or other neat strong material. Some ladies put covers of thin muslin over a coloured lining, but nothing looks so well as perfectly white curtains. The dimity, &c. should be about 1 yard wide; take two breadths of the proper length from the head of the cradle to the floor, about 14 nails, pin them evenly together, and sew up the seam from A to B (Fig. 5), about the distance of ½ a yard, but this must be determined by the cradle, observing to sew up until it begins to curve. As the curve must be cut while the material is fitted on the cradle itself, the dimity should be pinned along the bottom of the cradle from A to E, and also from A to B at the back. Then fit it accurately by pinning the breadths exactly, though easily together, along the curve, allowing enough for shrinking in washing, and when nicely fitted on, cut off the superfluous part and stitch it along, while on the cradle; the rough edges may afterwards be turned over, and hemmed down. The remainder of the dimity in front, is intended to hang over the cradle top, to form little curtains; hem round each side, and connect them together with small stitches, by running a cord up one hem, and down the other (Fig. 5, C D), the piece is drawn up to a small compass. This drawn up piece will require a bow or rosette of muslin (see Fig. 8); the whole piece may be trimmed with fringe, or turned up with a piping, which, if the cover be lined with glazed coloured calico, should be of the same. A loop of cord should come from underneath, and encircle the rosette (see Fig. 8).

For noblemen’s families, these covers are sometimes edged with silk fringe, or turned up with silk or satin, to accord with a lining of the same.

CRIB COVERS.

PLATE 5. FIG. 16.

These are generally made with a horse-shoe back, reaching from the top to the bottom of the crib; it is piped all round, and a piece of the proper width to go from side to side over the hoops is cut selvage-way, and either sewn plainly or fulled on to the horse-shoe back. This piece may either be finished in front like that over the cradle head, by drawing it up, and thus forming curtains; or two half-breadths may be fulled evenly round to this head-piece. Crib covers are frequently lined with blue or other coloured calico, which is sometimes made larger than the cover, to admit of being turned up so as to form a little border outside.

INFANT’S HANGING COT.

PLATE 5. FIG. 9.

This is a convenient shape, as it easily takes to pieces when not in use. The sides are either made entirely of wood, when no drapery is necessary; but they are usually merely frames to which ticking or any other material is fixed.

If it is furnished with ticking, it is laid on plain, though almost any other material, which will not wash is laid in plaits or fulled. The material is bound all round, and nailed on at the inner side, after which, an inside lining of glazed calico, or other material is put.

If the material is a washing one, glazed calico, chintz, twill, or white dimity is used; and this last is particularly neat and nice, and in the country might be made to keep clean a long time; the pieces should be fulled into some strong binding, to which very small loops might be sewn, large enough to admit of the nail to confine it firmly to the crib, so that when the covering is removed for washing, the loops alone are torn by the nails, and they can be easily replaced. The head drapery is similar to that of Fig. 16. Cotton fringe and gimp set all round, both above and below, gives a pretty finish to the whole. The ropes of the cots should be often looked to, and frequently renewed, as they wear out quickly, and the child’s safety depends on their strength.

THE TRAVELLING COT.

PLATE 5. FIG. 10,11,12, 13.

This is a most convenient crib for mothers to use when travelling with young children, as it is extremely light, and can be put up in two minutes, and if kept in a leathern case, with straps (see Fig. 10), it can easily be attached to the roof, or below a carriage, and be perfectly free from damp.

The stand (see Fig. 13) is made of strong beech-wood, and when taken to pieces, is in seven parts. The upright posts are fastened together two by two, by the short bits of wood, A and B, which are screwed tight into the legs by long iron screws, with brass heads. The long bar, C D, connects the two sides together also, by means of screws. These screws should be attached to the posts or bars they belong to, by a string, as the loss of one would render the crib unsafe. The lower parts of the four posts are much thicker than the upper, to give support to the crib. This is formed of five pieces of wicker-work (see Fig. 11), the bottom and four sides. The four sides are fastened firmly to the bottom, allowing, however, ample room to give full play for the sides to fold backwards or forwards. At each extreme corner is fastened a ring of iron, brass, or strong wicker-work. These rings are so placed, that when the sides are turned up to form the crib, the two rings at each corner shall slip over the top of each post of the stand, by which means all will remain firm.

The wicker crib should be 4 feet long, 2 feet 6 inches wide, and 15 inches deep. The one narrow end might be made deeper to give more protection to the head; and one or two hoops might be put into a ring or staple at the sides of the wicker-work, by which means a head-piece is easily made.

The stand posts should be 30 inches high, letting from E to G be 13 inches, from G to H, 7 inches, and from H to J be 10 inches.

The head drapery might be made similar to Fig. 15. The lining should be very simple and easily put on; also very warm, on account of the open wicker-work sides. Wadding or flannel should be quilted well over, between two folds of Holland, coloured glazed calico, or chintz, and made to tie on inside. This lining should be very thin, else it will take room in packing. When the crib is packed up, the posts are unscrewed, and the basket is folded with the sides inwards, so as to require as small a case as possible. A pillow from any bed is all that would be required, as bedding for the crib.

A child’s cradle or crib contains the following articles:—

Some ladies have their mattresses filled with finely cut chaff, others with sea-weed or with beech leaves. Chaff keeps particularly dry, and is cool and pleasant to lie on in the summer.

BABY’S BASKET.

PLATE 5. FIG. 31.

A baby’s basket should be lined either with the finest dimity or cambric muslin; in the latter case, an inner lining of coloured glazed calico or silk is often added. The cover should be very full—about three times the length round the basket, or more. After cutting the strips width-way, and sewing together sufficient to form the length required, make a small hem or runner along one side; after which, another is made about ½ a nail or more from it, according to the exact width of the ledge at the top of the basket. Upon the outer of these two runners is sewed a double frill, and between this and the inner runner, slits are cut in the proper places to admit the four handles, which are neatly hemmed round. At the bottom, on the other side of the strip, there is also a runner, through which a cord is drawn. A piece of the dimity is next fitted to the bottom of the basket, after which, the strip that goes round it being drawn up evenly, it is sewed on very neatly and firmly to the bottom piece. To the four corner strings are sewed, which being passed through the straw work of the basket, tie the cover firmly down to it.

The strings for the top are put in as follows:—four long pieces of cord are cut off, about 1½-yard each; they are doubled in two, so that one end is only a ¼ of a yard long: these cords are sewed firmly in the runner, each to the one side of each of the four handles, letting the short end of the cord be drawn through the runner at that shortest side next the corner, while the long cord has to be drawn past the handle and along to the furthest corner, where, on meeting the short end of another cord, it is tied firmly under the ledge of the basket. Of course these cords cannot be run in until the covering is actually upon the basket.

It may not be considered as out of place here, to state the usual contents of a basket, when prepared for an infant at its birth.

At the bottom, after putting in the bottle, with its leather or parchment suck, the other things are placed in the following order:—

The large flannel shawl, the calico bed-gown, night-flannel, night-cap, shirt, napkins, flannel cap and band, soft towels, sponge, hair brush, powder-bag, or box. Quite at the top are the receiver, the pincushion, with large and small pins, large pair of scissors, and a ball of strong thread or fine twine.

THE PINCUSHION.

PLATE 5. FIG. 17.

One kind, out of the numerous sorts known to every body, is alone mentioned here, as being the best, on account of its steadiness and the depth, which renders it safer, should it chance to get into the hands of a young child.

It is rather longer than it is broad, being about 7 nails by 6 nails, and nearly 3 nails deep. This will hold the largest pins without danger of their pricking through to the other side. The top and bottom should be made alike, with a frill all round, as seen in the Plate. These pincushions are sometimes made of muslin over satin or silk, but, if intended to be useful, white dimity is by far the best.

THE LEATHER SUCK
FOR BOTTLES.

PLATE 5. FIG. 15.

As most of the articles used by infants have been entered upon in turn, it is considered advisable to mention also the mode of making and fastening on the leather or parchment suck to the bottle. The suck is cut in the shape of the figure, so that when doubled down the middle, it resembles the upper part of the thumb of a glove. The two sides and the top are either joined together in the button-hole stitch or back-stitch; and if the latter, the suck must be turned inside out, that the smooth side may come in contact with the infant’s mouth. If mothers follow the rather dangerous practice of putting a bit of sponge inside the suck, it should be first well tied round and fastened to the nose of the bottle, and the string brought round the ledge of the hole (see Fig. 15), and brought again to the nose of the bottle and fastened. The sucks are merely fastened on by a strong thread wound round the nose.

LINING FOR CHAIRS.

PLATE 5. FIG. 30.

These little chairs, without legs, which are so useful to set upon the table or floor, for those children to sit in who cannot support themselves safely, should be softly lined throughout. A piece of flannel and wadding, cut to fit the chair, should be quilted together with the material the chair is to be covered with, either Holland, chintz, or calico. The whole should be very neatly bound, and then sewn or tacked on to the chair. A little cushion, stuffed with bran or horse-hair, should be put for the seat. These chairs should have sticks, with large knobs to screw on at each end. They should also be made with the sides or arms to lay flat, or turn up and fasten at pleasure, as they can, when flat, be easily packed in a trunk or laid under the carriage seats; and these comforts, when travelling, are well worth attending to. These little chairs, when the child can walk, come in nicely for swings, when, of course, the sides require lacing up firmly. For the baby’s night-chair should be made a flannel cushion to sit upon. Three or four doubles of flannel, cut to the size of the seat, with a hole stitched round in the centre, and run over in diamonds, is both neat and serviceable.

A child’s travelling night-stool is so great a convenience in the carriage, during long journeys, that it is here mentioned, though there is little to be said as to its fitting up. The lid should be covered with cloth, stuffed well with horse-hair or wool, to make it soft as a seat. This cloth should be nailed all round with smooth brass-headed nails. The lid should open with a spring, and the seat inside be covered with soft quilted flannel or Indian rubber cloth. The pan, which is of block-tin or crockery, should have a lid made to fit it tightly. These little stools should be about 9 inches high, and 10 inches square.