The workwoman's guide

PLATE 6.

Shifts are generally made of fine Irish linen or calico, for the upper classes, and of stout linen, or strong but soft calico for poor children.

Shifts are cut out differently, according to the width of the cloth. If it is wide, the shift takes 2 breadths in the skirt, and gores are cut off from the top to sew on the bottom to widen the skirt.

If the cloth is still wider, so as to admit of only 1½ breadth in the shift, or else very narrow, so that 2 breadths are barely sufficient, the shift is crossed. The tops vary, as do also the shapes of the sleeves. The following are those generally worn.

In goring a shift, the 2 breadths may be cut in one length, to prevent a seam on the shoulder. Fold your piece of cloth in two, and pin the sides very accurately together, or with long stitches tack them up the selvages. Next double the shift in half its length, from A to B, and put in pins to mark the crease in the middle, C C. Unfold the shift and double it again very carefully the width-way, so as to let the four selvages lie very evenly one upon another. Measure from the top, B, the space, B D, to be cut off, crease the linen in a straight line, from D to C, and cut it carefully off through the four thicknesses of cloth. The gores thus cut from off the top are reversed and sewed on to the bottom, to widen the skirt. The dotted lines in the Plate shew the width of the cloth, and the dark clear lines are intended to represent the shape of the shift. When the gores are sewed in, shifts are generally hollowed out at the back, and may either be also hollowed in front or have a flap cut, as seen in Fig. 2. The hollowing at the back is not so deep as in the front, therefore, great care must be taken in cutting the one not to injure the shape of the other; and in order to insure the two halves of each side being cut to correspond, it is advisable to cut the shape of the parts to be hollowed out in paper, to lay the paper on the linen, and cut by it. When the breadths are cut separately, as in some cases they must be, the seams on the shoulders should be sewed previously to the parts behind and before being hollowed. If the flap in front is preferred, it may either be cut straight down, as in Fig. 2, or in a slanting direction, as the shoulder in Fig. 6. This last plan is usually followed, and a button-hole is worked near the front of the shoulder-strap, which, being folded over to a button sewed on the shoulder-strap of the stays, neatly confines all straps, &c., in the fold.

There is another mode of cutting out the top of a shift, and, from its simplicity and economy, is preferable to any other. The shoulder-straps are cut separately from the skirt, which is, consequently, cut shorter, and is made quite straight at the top. The shift, after being gored or crossed, has little bosom gores put in front. The top is then hemmed, both before and behind, and the straps put on. A neat frill may be added, to give a finish to the whole.

The sleeves are sometimes cut out of the width of one of the breadths of the skirt, when the material is a little too wide; but unless you have linen of an awkward width by you, it is a wasteful plan, as the strip thus cut off is generally twice as long as the quantity required for the sleeves. Observe, if this plan be adopted, to cut off the length for the sleeves all in one piece, and not length by length from each separate breadth, as much waste would arise from so doing. If the sleeves are to be made as in Fig. 2, they may be cut in one length, sleeve and gusset together, down the selvage (see Fig. 17, 18, 19), and so many lengths in the width of the cloth. If they are to be made according to Fig. 6, an extra nail in length must be allowed for the plaiting. The gussets are reduced in size, according to the Scale, and a band to gather the sleeve into, at the bottom, is neatly stitched.

CROSSED SHIFTS.

PLATE 6. FIG. 3, 4, 5.

Before crossing a shift, sew the 2 breadths or the 1½ breadth, whichever it happens to be, together, and next, after flattening the seams with your thumb nail, crease the skirt, so that these two seams shall lie exactly one upon the other, and tack or pin them firmly together; or, to give a neater effect, the seams are brought, one in front and the other behind, so as to divide it in exact thirds. Fig. 4 represents the skirt when sewn up, A A being intended for the seam. Measure off 1¼ nails at the left hand of the top B D, and on the right hand of the bottom B D of the skirt, and double it from D to D, as in Fig. 5; and that you may be sure your measurements are accurate, it is better to double it again upwards, at X and Y, so that B D at the bottom, should lie upon B D at the top, and the corner C upon C, as in Fig. 3. If they do not exactly correspond, the shift is not correctly folded. After pressing these creases with the hand, unfold C from C, as it was before (see Fig. 5), and cut evenly from D to D. The skirt must then be turned. The two wide ends are for the bottom—the two narrow ones for the top of the shift.

It is made up as follows:—After sewing and felling the seams, and hemming the bottom, the hem at the top must be turned down, as if for hemming, and then turned back again and sewed all round, which is much stronger than a common hem. The sleeves are generally set in plainly, excepting, of course, in those intended to be full, as in Fig. 6.

CHILD’S SHIFT.

PLATE 6. FIG. 9, 10, 11.

This is a particularly neat pattern for a child from five years up to any age, and is generally the first shift used after leaving off the little shirt which is seen in the baby-linen.

As these shifts consist of 1½ breadth of 9 yards long, an even number, as 2, 4, or 6, should be cut out at the same time to prevent waste.

Two gores, of 2¼ nails at the top, and ¾ of a nail at the bottom, are cut off the whole breadth (see Fig. 9), which reduces the body to 8 nails at the top, and 11 at the bottom, which is the proper width of the shift. These gores are sewn on to the half-breadth, which makes it exactly correspond with the other side. After sewing the two halves together, leaving 2¾ nails from the top for the arm-holes, cut down the slits for the bosom flaps 2 nails deep, leaving 1½ nail space for the shoulders. Next, cut out the sleeve flaps (see Fig. 11) of 1¼ nail deep, and 3 nails long, and, after hemming them all round, sew them with firm small stitches to the shoulder. At the edge, B, sew on a piece of tape, in which make a button-hole, which buttons over the shoulder to the button, K, and confines all straps, as seen in the sleeve marked A, in Fig. 11, where the flap is represented as turned back over the shoulder, as it is when worn; whereas in the sleeve, marked B, the flap is unturned. The sleeves are hemmed all round, and then one end is turned up to form the gusset, to one side of which the other end of the sleeve is sewn, as in Fig. 17, 18, 19; they are then put plainly into the arm-hole, which must be previously hemmed.

The lining is put in last, and is turned down once a deep fold, all round. It is neatly felled inside to the shift. The lining is 7 nails long, and 1⅓ nail wide. It is sewn in a little below the arm-hole, and carried over the shoulder to the corresponding place on the other side of the shift. Strings are sewn to the points of the flaps, both before and behind. Children’s sleeves are sometimes fulled on the shoulder. The work should be close and strong. The flaps are sometimes made of fine lawn, edged with a cambric frill or worked muslin, and allowed to lie over the shoulder, outside the dress, which has a clean and neat appearance.

A SECRET WORTH KNOWING.

HOW TO SAVE ONE SEAM AND TWO FELLS
IN MAKING UP TWO SHIFTS.
PLATE 6. FIG. 12, 13, 14, 15.

This is a useful hint for those who make up much linen at home. It is done as follows:—

Take 3 breadths of the wide-width cloth, and sew them all together like a bag; then lay two of the seams very exactly one upon the other, and either pin or tack them firmly together; fold the whole piece in half, width-wise, so as to have four thicknesses of linen lying upon one another. Cross it like a common shift, Fig. 15, measuring it top and bottom to see if it is even, and it will cut into four pieces, one of which, Fig. 12, will have no seam at all; one, Fig. 13, will have a straight seam down the middle; the other two, Fig. 14, have each a piece like a gore on one side. These shifts, when neatly made, are just as serviceable and as good as those cut in the usual way, and it saves a great deal of work.

PLATE 6. FIG. 8, 16.

This is a pretty variety of sleeve, and is most suitable for young children. It is intended to fall over the frock. Fig. 8 represents the shape of the sleeve when cut out, and Fig. 16 when it is finished. The sleeve is cut all in one piece, taking care that the slope of the flap, C, when turned back, corresponds with the slope of the sleeve, D. The sleeve and flap are frilled with cambric, work, or lace. The advantage of this shape is, that both sleeve and flap are in one.

TROWSERS OR DRAWERS.

PLATE 7.

These are worn by men, women, and children of all classes, and almost all ages, under the different names of trowsers and drawers. They are made in a great variety of ways. Those mentioned here are the kinds most generally approved. Drawers for ladies and children are usually made of calico, twill, and cambric muslin. Those ladies who are invalids, or who ride much, frequently wear flannel or wash-leather drawers, with or without white calico leglets. For men, drawers are composed of very strong twill, calico, linen, flannel, and stockinet.

CHILD’S TROWSERS.

PLATE 7. FIG. 1, 2.

This is a child’s first pair of trowsers, and should be made of fine twill or calico. Each leg is cut in one piece, and, when folded, is 4½ nails wide; therefore, to prevent waste, the material should be 9 nails in width.

Cut off the 2 breadths for the two legs, of the proper length, and observe the following directions:—

Slope off from A to C, and cut from A to B, taking off ½ a nail from the width at the top.

In making, sew up the legs and join them at the seam in front, leaving them open behind, with a broad hem on each side, formed by laying a strip of the same material at each end, which is run at the edge on the wrong side, turned over to hide the stitches, and hemmed or back-stitched near the edge. The legs are then tucked, and the work or frill sewn on. The whole is next set into a band, ¾ of a nail deep when doubled, and 5 nails long, which buttons behind. Shoulder-straps, with button-holes, are attached to the trowsers by means of buttons before and behind. This plan is far more convenient than that of sewing on the straps, as, when they are only buttoned on, if it is necessary to change the trowsers in the course of the day, they may be simply unbuttoned without undressing the child, and the clean trowsers fastened to the shoulder-straps, which still remain over the shoulder.

A CHILD’S LARGER
TROWSERS.

PLATE 7. FIG. 3, 4.

This resembles Fig. 1 and 2 in every respect, excepting that the top is sloped or hollowed at the back.

Procure your material 10½ nails wide, to admit exactly of one leg being cut in the width.

Slope from G to E, and again from E to C, through A; after which, cut at the top of one fold from A to B, and of the other from B to C. Take care to cut the pair to match, so that the outer, or hollowed parts of the legs should rise, the one towards the right, and the other towards the left side. These are made up in a similar manner to Fig. 1.

GIRL’S TROWSERS.

PLATE 7. FIG. 5, 6.

Each leg of these trowsers is also made in the entire breadth.

Procure your material 10 nails broad.

Cut each breadth 8 nails long, not including the tucks, which, if they are deep, will add about 2 nails more. Supposing it but 8 nails long, cut as follows, after folding the breadth in half its width.

Slope from E to G. Cut in a straight line from G, past C, to H. Cut one fold from C to B, and the other from H to B.

If the tucks require 2 nails length in addition to the above size, continue the width of the legs, the same as from C to E (3 nails), to the end.

In making up, sew the trowsers up before and behind, and cut two slits, one on each side, to the depth of 3 nails. These slits have broad hems laid on all round them; to form which, cut two strips of 4½ nails long, and 2 nails broad; split each length down the middle, to within 1½ nail from the end (see Fig. 2). This strap is laid close to the edge and run all round the two sides of the slit, turned over, and hemmed down. This false hem greatly strengthens these slits.

The whole is then set into two bands, one for the front, and the other for the back of the trowsers. These bands are 5½ nails long, and ¾ of a nail wide, when doubled. A button-hole is strongly worked, in a slanting direction, at each corner of the bands, by which they are fastened to two buttons sewed upon the stays.

TROWSERS FOR A
BOY OR GIRL.

PLATE 7. FIG. 7, 8, 9.

This is a pretty body and trowsers, and is very suitable to little boys, especially if they are at all delicate, being particularly warm.

The body is composed of one middle piece, 6 nails long, and two side pieces, 3½ nails long each. They are 2½ nails deep, and, when sewed together, the middle is hollowed so as to make it only 2¼ nails.

The trowsers are made as follows:—

• Width of material, 12 nails.
• Length of each breadth, 11½ nails.
• Fold each breadth in two (see Fig. 8).

Slope from H to B; also from H, past F, to G, at the top of the breadth, whence it is cut to E, for the hollowed fold, while the under one is cut straight from E to F.

This trowser opens at the side; there is also a small opening in front (see K, Fig. 7). The body is hemmed all round, and sewed on plainly to the front band of the trowser, but it is left loose, as in Fig. 7, beyond the arm-holes on each side. The two bands button to each other at the sides, the body ties behind, and may, or may not be fastened also to the band of the trowsers at each side, having button-holes to correspond with the buttons. A little pocket should be sewed inside the slit down the sides, as in Fig. 9, where it is represented as if drawn out, or turned inside out.

LEGLETS.

PLATE 7. FIG. 10.

These are useful to put over the legs of children’s trowsers, when they are soiled or tumbled, before it is necessary to put on an entirely clean pair. They are usually made of some finer material than the trowser itself, and look well for an evening, when they are of fine cambric muslin, with open work, or small tucks. They are fastened by three or four buttons and button-holes or loops, the buttons being sewed to the trowsers. Sometimes the trowser itself only reaches to the knee, and leglets are always attached to it, by means of small buttons; they should be put on pretty closely, to make the leglets fit well, say six or eight on each leg; button-holes are made to correspond in the leglets. They are especially advantageous for children who play a great deal out of doors, or who live in a town, they will sometimes soil one or two pair in a day.

WOMEN’S DRAWERS.

PLATE 7. FIG. 11, 12.

These are formed of two separate legs sewed into a band, which is made to button before or behind, at pleasure. For a moderate size, Fig. 12 will be a good guide.

Width of material, 14 nails.

Length of each breadth, 15 nails.

Fold each breadth in half its width, letting D be the doubled part, and measure as follows:—

Cut in a straight line from S to G; cut also from E to Z, the point Z being within ½ a nail from the side. Hem the bottoms of the legs, after sewing up the seams, and hem round the slits, or open part; set them into the band, making them overlap each other (see Fig. 11). The band is 11 nails long, and 3 nails wide.

ANOTHER SHAPE.

PLATE 7. FIG. 13, 14.

Some persons, both ladies and children, wear bodies attached to their drawers, as in the figure, which represents a child’s size.

Procure your material 10½ nails wide.

Cut each breadth 9 nails long.

Let D be the doubled part, and mark as follows:—(Fig. 14.)

Cut from G to H, H being 4½ nails from the doubled side.

Cut from H to C.

Let the body be 2½ nails deep, and 10 nails long, fold it in four, cut out the arm-holes, and sew on the shoulder-straps.

In making up the trowsers, sew the legs together in front, after they have been run up, leaving them open behind, and laying on a broad tape (see T T, Fig. 13), sew on the body, and it is completed.

TURKISH TROWSERS.

PLATE 7. FIG. 15, 16.

These Turkish or full trowsers are often worn by little girls.

Procure your material 10 nails wide, to admit one leg exactly in the breadth.

Cut each breadth the proper length, say 9 nails long.

Fold each breadth in half, letting D be the doubled part (Fig. 16.)

Cut one fold from E to F, and the other from E to G. Cut from G to C in a straight line.

In making, sew up from B to C, and either gather the bottom, A B, into a band, to which a frill is set on, or else make a deep hem to admit of a ribbon, which draws it up to the proper size, and ties in a bow. To this hem is sewed a broad frill or handsome piece of work. The latter is the most convenient plan of the two for the washerwoman, as the leg will lie quite flatly to be ironed.

TROWSERS FOR A
LITTLE BOY.

PLATE 7. FIG. 17, 18, 19.

This is a particularly good pattern, and very suitable for a boy.

Procure your material 10 nails wide, to admit of one leg in the breadth.

Cut each breadth 7½ nails long.

Double the leg so as to leave 2 nails unfolded, or rather, fold it to within two nails of the selvage. Let D, Fig. 19, be the doubled part. From A to B is 2 nails, and is not double. From B to C is 4 nails, the one fold being cut in a slight curve from B to C, and in a sweep from A to C. The bottom of the leg is 3 nails wide. Slope from G to C, G being nearly 2 nails from the bottom.

The body is 10 nails long, and 2½ nails deep; fold it in four, and cut out the arm-holes (see Fig. 18).

In making, sew up each leg from K to G, and hem round every other part; next, make the body, hemming it all round, after which, sew the legs firmly to the body, making the flap, A L C, of one leg, overlap or lie across the flap of the other leg. These two flaps, after being firmly set into the band, are farther secured by back-stitching them together along the dotted line. Fig. 17.

MEN’S DRAWERS.

PLATE 7. FIG. 20, 21, 22.

These are men’s strong drawers, made of coarse twill or calico.

Procure your material 14 nails wide.

Cut each breadth 13 nails long.

Fold the breadths in half, letting D, Fig. 20, be the doubled part. The drawers are quite straight at the top, the piece, C H F, being an extra bit put in (see Fig. 20).

Cut from G to B, and one fold from G to E; the other is from G to F.

A triangular piece is put in at the top of the back, of 3 nails in continuation from F to H.

The pair of drawers has two bands of about 7 nails long each, and 1½ nail deep, when doubled.

In making, sew up the legs, and put on the extra piece at the back. Sew the two legs together at the back, and hem the slit on each side in front. Set each leg into a separate band, leaving them open before and behind. Work four little oylet-holes in the band behind, to admit tapes, which are laced through them and tie; in front, metal buttons are put, and button-holes made. Down each leg, in the front, a broad tape or piece of strong calico is laid, to strengthen it. A slit of about 2 nails long is made at the bottom of each leg. Broad tape is laid on round each leg at the bottom, forming a sort of hem, and oylet holes are worked on each side of the slit, for tape to come out at, which draws them to the proper size.

Fig. 20 represents the back of the drawers cut out.

Fig. 21 represents the back of the drawers made up.

Fig. 22 represents the front of the drawers made up.

WOMAN’S NIGHT-JACKET.

PLATE 8. FIG. 1, 2, 3.

Night jackets for the higher classes are made of linen, lawn, cambric muslin, and fine calico; also of dimity and twilled calico; and for the lower orders, of linen or calico. The calico should be soft and strong; and the unbleached or grey calico, as it is usually called by Linen Drapers, is warmer and often more durable than the white.

Fig. 1 represents the plan or picture of a piece of cloth of the proper width, on which all the parts for forming a woman’s jacket are accurately marked, with the exception of the shoulder-straps, which, as they do not fit in, might be made of any extra bits.

Cut out the two breadths of the skirt in one length, to avoid a seam on the shoulder. Fold it very exactly in half, and, after leaving 3 nails at each end of the folded side, to allow for the shoulders, slit open the neck from A to G, after which, measure carefully and find the middle of the neck, C, and slit it down to the bottom, D, to form the opening in front of the jacket.

The sleeves, which are 10 nails long, and the two cut in the width, are either sloped off towards the wrist, fulled into a wristband, as in Fig. 10, or else neatly run, at a sufficient distance from the edge, to form a kind of frill (Fig. 9). This running is done in two rows, extended nearly all round the cuff, and neatly stretched upon a piece of tape, which is laid inside, and carried all round the cuff.

Fig. 3 represents a plan for cutting out twelve jackets, which is the most economical number, cut out at once, to avoid waste. The pieces in the Plate are marked with the initial letter for their use, and the width of the piece, thus, S 7, signifies sleeve 7 nails wide. On the left hand of the plan is marked the length of each piece, and on the right hand is set down the number of those lengths required to be cut to form the set complete, thus, 12 L means 12 lengths. The frills are generally of fine lawn or cambric, or else corded, jaconet, checked, or other muslins.

NIGHT-GOWN.

PLATE 8. FIG. 5.

This shape is not so much worn as that of Fig. 4, nor perhaps has it so neat and finished an appearance, but on many accounts it is the most desirable, being in the first place, more economical; it also washes more easily, and above all, is particularly convenient in time of sickness, when it is very essential to a weak or suffering person to be able to draw open the gown at the neck and wrists, so as to have full play for the arms in changing her linen, or having blisters, leeches, &c. applied; whereas those night dresses confined at the neck in collars are very irksome, and cause much unnecessary suffering in being removed. The scale and plans so clearly explain the size, shape, &c. that nothing remains to be said, except that a band is sometimes worn round the waist, with a narrow frill sewn round the ends, which are sloped off, according to fancy.

It is better economy to cut three or six gowns together, as the gussets, binders, &c. take about the third of a breadth, so that in cutting out one, there is an unavoidable waste of the other two-thirds of a breadth. The two sleeves cut in the width, and are, for the largest size, 9 nails long.

ANOTHER NIGHT GOWN.

PLATE 8. FIG. 4.

It is more economical to buy your material of a sufficient width to merely gore it, if only one gown is to be cut out.

It is better to cross the skirt, and use 1½ breadth of very wide material, if six are to be cut.

All the other parts are the same as in the scale for the crossed gown.

In cutting out six crossed gowns, tear off the 9 breadths for the skirts, allowing 1½ breadth to each; after which, cut off the 6 lengths (9 nails long each) for the sleeves; two sleeves cut in the width. Next cut off a piece 10 nails long, which divide width-way into twelve binders of 1½ nail wide each. Afterwards, cut off another breadth of 8 nails long, to divide width-way into six collars of 4 nails width. The gussets will require two breadths of 3 nails deep, to be divided width-way also, in six of 3 nails width.

The wristbands are 4 nails long; and as only nine of 2 nails width can be cut in 1 breadth, the remaining three must be cut off a second breadth, which will leave sufficient cloth over, exactly to cut the 12 neck-gussets, in two rows deep of 2 nails square. By this arrangement, no waste whatever is made.

The one gored gown is cut according to the scale; Fig. 8 is a bosom-bit, which adds much to the strength of the slit. It is impossible to cut out one of these gowns alone, without a little waste.

PLATE 8. FIG. 6.

This is an exceedingly neat looking night-dress, and for full size is cut according to the following dimensions. Cut two breadths of 1 yard wide, and 1½ yard long each, and sew up the seams, leaving 3 nails from the top for arm-holes. Cut out two shoulder-pieces according to Fig. 7, which represents half, the letter D being the doubled part. If it is made of calico, put a neat piping round the one shoulder-piece, as it materially strengthens the night-dress; and after fulling the skirt evenly round to the other, and setting in the sleeves, lay the upper shoulder-piece over the lower one. Pipe and frill it up the neck, and if preferred, a collar may be added, with a second frill above. If the night-dress is made of linen, it must be neatly stitched instead of piped. The sleeves are 8 nails square, and the wristband, as in Fig. 11, 4 nails square, to which a frill is added.

FLANNEL WAISTCOAT
FOR A LADY.

PLATE 8. FIG. 12.

Cut a piece of flannel 12 nails wide, and 7 nails deep; fold it in two, and at 2 full nails from the middle or doubled part, cut the arm-holes, which are 2 full nails wide, and 1¼ nail deep, leaving 2 nails for half the back; hollow the front half a nail. At the bottom of the waistcoat, immediately under the arm-holes, cut a slit upwards to the distance of 3 nails, and put into these slits, gores of 3 nails wide at the bottom, sloped off to a point, being 3 nails long. These gores are differently cut to most others, being sloped equally on both sides, instead of having one side straight, so that the point is in a straight line with the middle of the gore at the bottom (see Fig. 12).

Cut two other slits to admit of bosom gores of similar shape, but smaller size, being 1¾ nail broad, and 1¾ nail long. They are put in 1 nail from the shoulder-strap.

In making up, herring-bone all round the waistcoat; the slits and gores, and the seams also, are herring-boned with strong thread, the seams being turned flatly back, and laid side by side on the finger, so that the one row of herring-boning shall join the two compactly together (see Fig. 15). Some persons lay a broad tape, say a nail wide, down the front, on which the buttons are sewed, and button-holes worked. Tape shoulder-straps complete the whole. This waistcoat buttons in the front.

A BOY’S WAISTCOAT.

PLATE 8. FIG. 13, 14.

The following size is suitable for a child of 12 years old:—

The waistcoat is made in three parts; the middle piece should be 7 nails wide, and 6½ nails deep; the side-pieces must be the same depth, and 5 nails wide. Sew up the seams, and fold the waistcoat in four, like a pinafore, then cut out the arm-holes, which, while thus doubled, are 1½ nail in width, and the same in depth; the waistcoat is then opened, and hollowed out in the front (see Fig. 13).

In making up, tape is sewed all round the edge, at the inside, and broad tapes down the sides, in which the button-holes are cut. Straps are sewed on, and the whole is finished.

A WAISTCOAT
FOR AN INVALID BOY
OF THE WORKING CLASS.

PLATE 8. FIG. 16.

Take a breadth and a half of flannel, each 9 nails long, and sew them together, leaving them open in the front. Fold the waistcoat in four, and cut the shoulders, and slits for the arm-holes, as in a pinafore; the shoulders are 1½ nail deep, and the arm-holes 2½ nails long. Hollow it a little at the top, and after sewing up the shoulders, gather it at the top into a tape the proper length (say 5 nails). Put in sleeves without gussets, which are 7 nails long, and 4 nails wide before being sewed up; hem the fronts, and lay on a broad tape at the inside of the hem, in which the button-holes are made; herring-bone the bottom and sleeves.

A MAN’S UNDER WAISTCOAT.

PLATE 8. FIG. 17, 18.

This is generally made of fine calico, and is cut out according to the Plate.

For the back (Fig. 17), cut your paper pattern 9 nails long, and 7 nails wide: double it in half its width, and, as in the Plate, letting D be the doubled part, mark as follows:—

Curve from A to B, and from A through C to E.

The front is cut as follows:—Let your pattern be 11 nails long, and 8 nails wide (see Plate 8, Fig. 18).