The workwoman's guide

The arm-hole is sloped, and is rather difficult to manage, but by looking at the Plate, and following the directions, as nearly as possible, the same shape may be attained.

Curve from R to the bottom, also from D to B, and cut out the arm-hole.

In making up, sew the pieces together, lay on a broad piece of calico all down the front, lay a tape round the neck, and set on your buttons down the front, with button-holes to correspond.

This shape, but varying of course in size, will do for boys of all ages.

BOY’S VEST OR
UPPER WAISTCOAT.

PLATE 8. FIG. 19, 20.

This is made of cloth, jean, or nankeen. The size here given, would suit a boy ten or eleven years old.

The vest is in three parts, viz.—one back and two fronts. To cut out the front (Fig. 19), let your paper pattern be 3½ nails wide, by 4¼ nails long.

Curve in for the arm-hole, from E to A, cut from A to B, and curve from B to C.

For the back (Fig. 20), let your paper be 5 nails long, by 3¼ nails wide.

Curve slightly from A to B, cut in a straight line from B to C, hollow for the arm-hole from C to F, cutting into the cloth about 1¼ nail, slope from F to E.

In making up, join the two shoulders together, then sew E G, Fig. 19, to F E, Fig. 20; line it, bind with galloon or tape round the neck, arm-holes, waist, and up the fronts, put on buttons, and make button-holes to correspond in front. Buttons are also put on round the waist, to which the trowsers are to button, as no braces are worn with this vest.

CHILD’S NIGHT VEST.

PLATE 8. FIG. 21, 22.

Some children are in the habit (when in bed) of kicking off their sheets; and it is very desirable for such to wear fine flannel or demet waistcoats under their night-gowns in winter, and calico ones in summer, to prevent their catching cold. These waistcoats or vests, if for children under five or six, may be cut two in the width of the flannel, and about 8, 10, or 12 nails long, according to the size of the child. After cutting off the pieces required, fold each in half its length, and sew up the side-seams, leaving 1½ nail from the top on each side, to form the arm-holes, which are neatly herring-boned round. The top is hollowed thus: leave about 1¼ nail on each folded side for the shoulders, and hollow down to 1½ nail in front, for the bosom, and to 1 nail behind, for the back. Herring-bone flatly all round, and the vest is completed.

CHILD’S DAY VEST.

PLATE 8. FIG. 23, 24.

Delicate children are often recommended to wear flannel shirts or vests next their skin. They should be of the finest flannel, with plenty of nap, which should be next the skin. These are cut much in the same shape as babies’ second shirts (see Plate 2, Fig. 30), excepting that the back is hollowed out, and it has no sleeves. Two shirts might be cut in the width, of 8 or 10 nails long. When folded in two, and sewed up at the seams, leaving 1½ nail for the arm-hole, the front should be cut. Leave 1¼ nail in each folded side for the shoulders, cut down nearly straight to 1½ nail for a front flap, and slope down behind to the same depth.

BATHING GOWN.

PLATE 8. FIG. 25.

Bathing gowns are made of blue or white flannel, stuff, calimanco, or blue linen. As it is especially desirable that the water should have free access to the person, and yet that the dress should not cling to, or weigh down the bather, stuff or calimanco are preferred to most other materials: the dark coloured gowns are the best for several reasons, but chiefly because they do not shew the figure, and make the bather less conspicuous than she would be in a white dress.

As the width of the materials, of which a bathing gown is made, varies, it is impossible to say of how many breadths it should consist. The width at the bottom, when the gown is doubled, should be about 15 nails: fold it like a pinafore, slope 3½ nails for the shoulders, cut or open slits of 3½ nails long for the arm-holes; set in plain sleeves 4½ nails long, 3½ nails wide, and make a slit in front 5 nails long.

In making up, delicacy is the great object to be attended to. Hem the gown at the bottom, gather it into a band at the top, and run in strings; hem the opening and the bottom of the sleeves, and put in strings. A broad band should be sewed in about half a yard from the top, to button round the waist.

WOMEN’S CAPS.

Women’s caps are generally made of checked, spotted, clear, or twilled muslin, widow’s lawn, and if for night-caps for the poor, sometimes of soft fine calico. The borders are of corded, cambric, jaconet, or clear muslin, and are sometimes, for ladies’ caps, edged with narrow lace, or are made entirely of hemmed net.

WOMAN’S DAY OR
NIGHT-CAP.

PLATE 9. FIG. 1, 2

This is a favourite shape for a day-cap among the poor.

Observe, that in the Plates the letter D always stands for the doubled part of the muslin.

In cutting out these caps, it is by far the most economical to cut out 24 at a time, as, if half that number is cut, half the width of the length of cloth from which the puffing is cut, is wasted, whereas the 24 exactly fit in.

The crown must be rounded off at the top, for which purpose, double it in half its width, and at 2 nails from the top corner each way, round, or slope off the piece from A to B (see Plate 9, Fig. 1).

The cap is made up as follows:—

Double the bands in two, and turn down the edges as if for sewing. Hem the crown-piece with a very narrow hem up each side, to the distance of half a nail, and sew it firmly to each end of one of the bands; after which, whip and stroke evenly the remaining part of the crown, and sew it to the rest of the band in the middle. To the other side of the band, full on the head-piece or puffing, which is afterwards confined on the other side by being whipped and sewed to the second band. The double border is sewed on in front, and a single one behind, where previously there has been a pretty deep hem made, to admit of strings to draw behind. These strings are sewed into the cap, each at the opposite end of the hem to that on which it comes out. The strings are hemmed at the end, being either pointed or rounded, according to taste. Some ladies prefer their being 1 nail wide and rounded at the end, with a narrow frill or edging sewed on to the distance of 3 or 4 nails round the ends.

A VERY NEAT
NIGHT-CAP.

PLATE 9. FIG. 3, 4, 5, 6.

This, when made of checked muslin, with a border of corded muslin, has a very pretty appearance, and is particularly comfortable for a night-cap, as it sets close to the head.

The most economical number of caps of this pattern to cut at once, is eight, and should be done as follows, to prevent waste (see Fig. 3). Tear off two lengths of 14 nails, which, when torn each in four, will form the eight head-pieces. The horse-shoe crowns must be cut in two rows deep, four in each row, of 2½ nails wide, which will require 10 nails of the breadth, leaving a piece 8 nails wide and 7 nails long. This piece will cut the eight pairs of strings, which are each half a nail wide, and 7 nails long. After cutting out the cap, shape the head-pieces according to Fig. 4 in the Plate, by which it will be seen that 1¼ nail is taken off in a direct line from A to B. The piece for the horse-shoe crown must be folded, and rounded carefully at the top, and then sloped off in a direct line, thus cutting off half a nail from each side.

In making up the cap, place the straight part of the head-piece in front, and put two runners, besides hem, at equal distances from each other in front, say ¾ of a nail. Whip the back neatly, and after hemming the horse-shoe crown, sew the head-piece firmly to it. Some people hem a cord round the horse-shoe which gives it a greater firmness, and looks like a piping when the head-piece is sewed in, as it ought to be, to the bottom, instead of the top of the hem. A hem is made at the bottom of the cap for a string to draw. Double borders in front, a single one behind, and the strings sewed on, complete the cap.

A YOUNG SERVANT’S
NEAT DAY-CAP.

PLATE 9. FIG. 7, 8.

This shape is generally made of clear muslin, widow’s lawn, or jaconet, and is particularly adapted for girls on first going to service, from its neat simplicity.

The cap is folded in half the width, and cut according to Fig. 7. The side marked D is the doubled part. Mark on the opposite side 2 nails from the top, E, and slope or hollow out a piece from E to H very gradually, letting the greater width of the piece thus hollowed out not exceed half a nail.

Next slope off gradually from H to L at the distance of ½ a nail from the bottom; after which, cut the straight line E K, which is 1 nail in length, the letter K being situated about ¾ of a nail from the side and 1¼ from the top, and then slope gradually to M. In making up the cap, sew from E to K, and gather in the top from K to M, as in Fig. 8. A single or double border is put in front. This is a small size.

Fig. 18, 19, 27, and 28 are different shaped strings for caps.

ANOTHER NEAT CAP
FOR SERVANTS.

PLATE 9. FIG. 9, 10.

This shape is particularly liked by the poor, from the ease with which it is made up and washed, as, upon undrawing the string, it opens readily at the top, and lies quite flat to be ironed.

As the shape is peculiar, if many are to be cut at once, it would be the least wasteful plan to cut out on a doubled piece of paper, the pattern of the cap, according to Fig. 9; open it out and lay it on the material in such directions as to cut to most advantage. If only one is to be cut, procure a piece of muslin 8 nails wide and 5½ nails long; which, when folded evenly in half its width, shape as follows, according to the Plate. The side marked D is the doubled part; from E at the bottom to F is 2¼ nails. From the top, G to H, measure 2¼ nails, and cut off in a sloping line from I, at the top of the doubled corner, to H, again cut from H to F, after which cut off from F to about ½ a nail above E, and then the shape of the cap is formed.

Strings of the usual size, ½ nail wide and 7 nails long, complete the cap.

In making it up, sew from H to Y, and then hem all round the open part along Y to I, and sew on a full frill of ¾ nail deep, and about 18 nails long. Afterwards hem the front and back of the cap, put double borders in front, and a single one behind, of 1 nail deep, and 3 breadths of 16 or 18 nails wide.

ANOTHER SHAPE.

PLATE 9. FIG. 11, 12.

This is a very simple shape, and for washing and making up is equally convenient with Fig 10. It answers well for a bonnet cap for ladies, in which case it might be made of net or tulle, with a quilling or lace border.

Fold the cap in half its length, making D the doubled part (see Fig. 11). Sew and fell from A to B, to the depth of 1 nail, and hem round the rest of the opening behind, to admit of a ribbon. Let there be two runners besides the hem in front, to admit of tape or narrow ribbon. The border must depend upon the purpose for which the cap is intended: if for a night-cap, a double border in front and single behind will be required: if for a bonnet cap, a double border or quilling only, in front will be sufficient. It may be as well also to remark, that if it is meant for a night-cap, the length of the cap down the selvage should be greater, say 11 or 12 nails; and the width of the material, to cut to the best advantage, must, of course, be either exactly the same, or double.

A NEAT SCHOOL-GIRL’S CAP.

PLATE 9. FIG. 13, 14.

This pattern needs little further explanation, the shape and size are so clearly given in the Plate. The head-piece is sloped off at the ears, beginning to cut at 1 nail above the corner, to 1 nail beyond the corner, at the bottom of the cap.

This cap is for school girls, and is particularly neat if of checked muslin with corded muslin frills.

A FAVOURITE CAP FOR
LADIES AND POOR WOMEN.

PLATE 9. FIG. 15, 16, 17, 18, 19.

This cap is pretty and not expensive if made without the band and weepers, which, of course, add much to the cost; twelve is the best number to cut out at once. They are generally made for ladies of sprigged muslin, when the head-piece should be of strong muslin or fine calico. The borders are cambric, muslin, or net, edged with Valenciennes lace, or other neat trimming. The weepers are also frilled and edged, as also the rounded ends of the band. The crown is sloped off a little at the corner, as seen in Fig. 16, at A, which is about 2 nails from the corner. The weepers are also shaped to a point, as in Fig. 19 (see B). The band (Fig. 18) is gathered in at about 1½ nail from the end, which is rounded, with edging sewed on. The middle of the band is plaited, and sewed firmly on to the middle of the head-piece, in front.

A NEAT COMFORTABLE
DAY OR NIGHT-CAP.

PLATE 9. FIG. 20.

This is a shape particularly suitable for day-caps for young servants, or night-caps for any age or station. If intended for day-caps, they should be made of clear or jaconet muslin; if for night-caps, of check or calico.

The head-piece is a little sloped off at the ear from A to B, and is made up double, so as to be only 2 nails deep, when the cap is completed.

ANOTHER CAP.

PLATE 9. FIG. 21.

This shape is very suitable for a servant’s day or bonnet cap; it is simple and pretty in appearance, and not expensive.

In making it up, the band is doubled in half, the crown whipped and sewed to it, leaving it plain from A to B, for the space of 1¾ nail. A double border is sewn on in front.

AN OLD WOMAN’S CAP.

PLATE 9. FIG. 22, 23.

This shape is generally preferred by old women, as it sets comfortably over the ears.

It is almost impossible to cut out a number of these caps without a little waste.

The head-pieces, when torn off, are 7 nails long, and 1¾ wide; double them in half their length, and then slope off from A to B, one nail. The straight part is the front, to which a border is sewed. The crown is next shaped, according to Fig. 23, for which purpose, double the piece in half its width, and from the corner, B, measure 7 nails on the side to A, and 1 nail on the bottom, to C, and cut off in a straight line from A to C. Round off the corner at the top, from A to D. The crown is sewed on plain for the space of 1½ nail from the bottom, and then evenly fulled into the remainder of the head-piece.

A POOR WOMAN’S
NIGHT-CAP.

PLATE 9. FIG. 24, 25, 26.

This shape is sometimes made of linen, but generally of strong calico or check.

The head-piece is sloped off, as in Fig. 24, from A, which is 1½ nail above the corner, B, to C.

The crown, after being rounded, is evenly fulled into the head-piece, which latter is sewed neatly together behind, at the opening, D C.

ANOTHER CAP.

PLATE 9. FIG. 27, 28.

This is a pretty shape for almost any purpose, and in any thin material; it is cut out in front very much in the same manner that a baby’s cap is cut behind, which will be seen if the Plate is turned round, so as to place the doubled part, D, at the top.

In making up the cap, sew neatly from A to B, and then full in the part from E to C, evenly to the part between C and B; a hem in the front and at the back, is next made for a ribbon or tape, and a small bow, either of the same material (see Fig. 17), or white or coloured ribbon may be put at B (Fig. 28).

BATHING CAP.

These are made of oil-silk, and are worn, when bathing, by ladies who have long hair. Cut a piece of oil-silk, 4 nails long and 8 nails wide; double it so as to make a square; let the doubled part be the back of the cap, and slope off the corner at the top, towards the back, in a curve, so as to shape it to the form of the back of the head. Sew up along the top of the bathing cap, binding it with tape at the seam, both at the top and in the front. Lay on a tape behind to form a hem, making oylet-holes at the ears, and passing a string through each oylet-hole, which is fastened down at the opposite side; these strings draw up the cap, when worn, to the size required.

It is advisable, however, for those who have not long hair, to bathe in plain linen caps, so as to admit the water without the sand or grit, and thus the bather, unless prohibited on account of health, enjoys all the benefit of the shock without injuring the hair.

These caps are often worn by children when the head is shaved, if subject to diseases in the head, as ring-worm, scald-head, &c.

DRESSING-GOWNS.

PLATE 10.

Dressing-gowns are generally made of warm materials, for the winter, as flannels, either printed or plain, merino, shawl, either the real or imitation, and for gentlemen, of cloth or jean. For summer, they are of dimity, calico, twilled muslin, and sometimes, though rarely, of silk. There are various ways of making them; only a few of the most approved shapes will be here mentioned.

PLATE 10. FIG. 1.

A PLAIN USEFUL SHAPE,
ESPECIALLY FOR MEN.

This gown is made with a deep hem turned up, and a strong piping at the top of it. It is divided into four, and the arm-holes left in the two front seams, sloping the flannel 1 nail deep, and 2½ nails long, for the shoulders. The neck-gusset is put in double, and the shoulder-strap laid over it. The gown must be neatly plaited behind and in front, set firmly into the double collar, and stitched with strong thread near the edge. Some people pipe every seam of a dressing-gown with white or coloured muslin, linen, or glazed calico. The back is drawn up by means of a string-case, over which a band should button. A large button is put on the band, and on the collar, and the button-holes should be very firmly sewed round, either with tape or with button-hole stitch. After putting in the sleeves, run or back-stitch the plaits firmly down again, at about ¼ nail below the gathering, to make them lie flat.

PLATE 10. FIG. 2.

This figure represents a dressing-gown made of dimity. A deep hem of 3 or 4 nails is made at the bottom, insertion-work is sewed up the fronts, and round the cape, collar, and wrists, at the edge of the work a frill is put on. The gown is fulled in evenly to the shoulder-strap and neck-gusset at the top, and may be confined or not, at the waist behind, according to pleasure. The front is generally left unconfined, so that the band alone arranges it in folds.

FIG. 2, 3.

PLATE 10. FIG. 3.

This gown, made of flannel, either plain or printed, is plaited in small regular folds at the neck, where a string-case of muslin or white ribbon is put for a string to pass through. The gown is again plaited in the same folds at the waist, in two rows, to which another string-case is sewed all round the waist. A deep hem is made at the bottom, and turned up with a piping of white; or if it is a printed flannel, of some coloured glazed calico or muslin; the ribbons in front are the same colour, and a flannel band is piped with it, as well as the wristbands and every seam on the shoulders, round the sleeves, &c. The sleeves should be stitched down about 1 nail below the shoulder, to make the fulness lie close and flat. If made of printed flannel, it is useful to wear at the sea-side, as a walking dress, to and from bathing.

CLOAK DRESSING-GOWN.

PLATE 10. FIG. 4.

This is a comfortable simple pattern; it can be made either of flannel or lighter material, and is equally suitable for men, women, and children; it is very convenient for the latter when taken out of a bath, or for sitting up in bed.

After the seams have been herring-boned up, the cloak is folded in four, to find the shoulders, which are cut in a gentle slope to the proper width, and sewed up. The arm-holes having been left, the sleeves are next put in, after which, the gown is fulled evenly into the double shoulder-piece; the collar and cape are next put on; the hem at the bottom should be deep, and turned up with a flannel or tape piping; down the sides and round the cape, collar, &c., should be bound with flannel binding, to give a finish. Some persons omit the sleeves, having merely slits for the arms.

A DRESSING JACKET.

PLATE 10. FIG. 5, 6.

Some persons merely wear a little flannel, calico, or twilled muslin dressing jacket, and as it is usually made to fit the figure, the breadths are much gored; for the purpose, therefore, of better explaining the shape, a figure is made of the breadth when cut out. Fig. 5 A, is half of the back breadth, which is doubled in two, and Fig. 5 B is the whole of one of the front breadths.

FIG. 5 A.

Or half the back of the jacket when cut out, supposing the breadth to be folded exactly in two.

Let A L be the folded side.

FIG. 5 B.

Or the whole of one of the front breadths.

In making up this jacket, sew the 3 breadths together, putting in at the bottom two gussets or triangular pieces. Make a narrow hem at the bottom, sew up the shoulders, and put in the sleeves. Set the back breadth plainly into the collar, but full it at each end into the neck gusset, and also in front. Put the string-case about a nail lower than the arm-holes.

FLANNEL PETTICOATS.

PLATE 10. FIG. 7.

The breadths of flannel are cut according to the height of the person, allowing a good tuck besides, to be let down after the petticoat has been washed.

SCALE.