The workwoman's guide

PLATE 17. FIG. 4.

• The most economical plan of cutting six shirts, the size of Fig. 3:—
• Two sleeves in the breadth, five nails long, six breadths.
• Six linings, B B, seven nails long, two breadths.
• Four collars, C C, six nails and a half long, one breadth.
• Two collars and twelve straps, S S, six nails and a half long,
• one breadth.
• Six sleeve-gussets, G G, two nails long, two breadths.
• Four wristbands (leaving two nails over), three nails long,
• three breadths.

The remainder, two nails wide, and nine nails long, to be cut up into six neck-gussets, N N, one nail and a half square, leaving a piece, half a nail wide and nine long, to form the remainder of the gussets.

PLATE 17. FIG. 6,

• Is the most economical plan of cutting six shirts of the same size,
• as Fig. 5.
• Take off twelve sleeves, eight nails wide, and six long, twelve
• lengths.
• From the long strip cut two binders, in width eight nails and a
• half, six lengths.
• And two wristbands in the width, W W, three nails and a quarter
• long, six lengths.
• The whole strip is thus exactly used up.
• Three collars, C C, to be three nails wide and a piece over,
• seven nails long, two lengths.
• The piece left over of the breadth to be cut into
• Twelve shoulder-straps, S S, four in the width, four nails long,
• three breadths.
• Also two neck-gussets, N N, two nails square.
• Four sleeve-gussets, G, three nails square, and one neck-gusset,
• N, in the width, three nails square, three breadths.
• Thirteen flap and bosom-gussets, one nail square, one breadth.

PLATE 17. FIG. 8,

• Represents the best plan of cutting six shirts, similar in size to Fig. 7.
• Cut twelve sleeves, S S, seven nails and a half wide, seven
• nails long, twelve lengths.
• In the remainder of the breadth, two binders in the width, of
• Eleven nails long, six lengths.
• Twelve sleeve-gussets, G G, three nails square, six lengths.
• After which, cut as follows:—
• Four collars, C C, three nails wide and eight nails long,
• leaving a strip one nail and a half wide for little
• gussets, one length.
• Two collars and six wristbands, W W, eight nails long,
• one length.
• Three wristbands, and six neck-gussets, N N, four nails long,
• two lengths.
• Twelve shoulder-straps, S S, four nails long, one length.

A PLAN FOR CUTTING SIX SHIRTS
OF THE SAME SIZE AS FIG. 9.

PLATE 17. FIG. 10.

• Measure off the whole length for sleeves, eight nails square, twelve lengths.
• From the remainder of the breadth cut
• Two linings, B B, in the width, of twelve nails long, six lengths.
• Two collars, C C, in the width, of eight nails long, three lengths.
• The strip is thus exactly made up;—
• Cut six wristbands, W W, in the width, four nails long, two lengths.
• Four gussets, of three nails square and two nails over, three lengths.
• From the piece over, cut two shoulder-straps, four nails long,
• and a piece over.
• Six neck-gussets, two nails square in the breadth, one length.
• Ten shoulder-straps in the width, four nails long, one length.
• Fourteen gussets in the breadth, one nail square, one length.

A PLAN FOR CUTTING SIX SHIRTS
SIMILAR IN SIZE TO FIG. 11.

PLATE 17. FIG. 12.

• Measure off the twelve sleeves, eight nails wide, and ten long, twelve lengths.
• Two binders in the width, twelve nails long, six lengths.
• Two collars in the width, eight nails long, three lengths.
• Two wristbands in the width, four nails long, six lengths.
• The strip is thus exactly used up, after which,
• Cut four sleeve-gussets in the width, three lengths.
• Six shoulder-straps, five nails long, two lengths.
• Six neck-gussets in the width, one length.
• Twelve flap-gussets in the width, two lengths.

EXPLANATION OF MAKING UP SHIRTS.

Double the long piece for the skirt in two, making the front breadth one nail shorter than the back breadth.

Measure the proper distance from the top for the arm-holes, and the proper distance from the bottom for flaps, and put in pins for marks.

The skirt is usually simply sewed up, but it is preferable, especially with gentlemen’s shirts, to make a hem the whole length of the skirt, on each side, and then sew up between the arm-holes and flaps, firmly, with thick even stitches.

Proceed next to stitch the collar and wristbands. Let the stitching be made about six threads from the edge, and carried all round both the wristbands and collar; taking care not to pass the stitches through both folds of them, at the opening or part, in which the fulness of the sleeve or shirt is to be gathered.

Next prepare the straps by turning them in, and drawing the threads; do the same with the neck and other gussets.

Now sew up the sleeves, putting in the large gussets, the little wrist-gussets and gathering them into the wristbands, to prepare them for putting into the shirts. Then put in the side-gussets, and hem the flaps and bottom of the shirt. These gussets are fixed by sewing them on at the wrong side of the shirt to within a quarter of an inch less than the square, and felling the other side nearly over. The neck gussets are next managed in the same manner, taking care to put the stitched part on the right side.

The shoulder-strap is then doubled in half, and slightly tacked on the middle of the shoulder in the inside; then place each side flat on the shirt, and stitch it in the lines that have been prepared for it.

The bosom is then stitched; and the button-holes made, or if, as in gentlemen’s shirts, a piece is let into the front, it must be arranged according to the taste of the wearer.

The lining is now neatly felled on, and the neck gathered, and set into the collar, after which the sleeves are gathered and put in. The bosom-bit may then be sewed in, and when the buttons are put on the whole is completed.

The shirt is marked about an inch below the left hip or gusset.

GENTLEMEN’S SHIRTS.

PLATE 18.

Gentlemen’s shirts are usually made of fine Irish linen or lawn, and sometimes of long cloth. Some gentlemen wear striped calico, but seldom, unless engaged in sporting, boating, or fishing. Gentlemen’s sons, up to ten or eleven years of age, or persons going into hot climates, wear strong calico, it being considered more healthful than linen, the latter is, however, the best wearing of the two, but more expensive. Care should be taken to procure the proper width, according to the size wanted; and the proper quantity, according to the number required. The Suffolk hemp is considered the best for shirting.

Gentlemen’s shirts are cut much on the same principle, but upon a more liberal plan than those mentioned for the labouring classes, with a few exceptions: such as some varieties in the pattern and size of binders, collars, shoulder-straps, &c. In most of them also, a piece of the linen is cut out in the front or bosom, and two pieces of cambric, or fine lawn, either plaited, or fulled in the place, to form the two sides or half fronts to the shirt. A scale is first given of different sizes, and then the best of the various patterns will be explained.

GENTLEMEN’S SHIRT FRONTS.

PLATE 18.

There are various modes of making up fronts, dependant on the age and taste of the wearer, as well as upon the changes of fashion. The material of which the front is made, should be of a width as to allow of the two half fronts being cut in the breadth; the length is measured from the top of the shoulder to the bottom of the opening prepared for it, allowing plenty to turn in at each end. The two halves having been made up according to fancy, are put into the front, making them overlap each other a full nail, exactly in the middle (see Fig. 2), which prevents the slit opening and exposing the skin. The most approved fronts, and those in general use, are the following:—

A YOUNG CHILD’S FRONT.

PLATE 18. FIG. 1.

Is generally quite plain, with a broad hem and small pearl buttons; it should overlap half a nail.

A BOY’S FRONT.

PLATE 18. FIG. 2.

This is neatly gathered in, and at the end marked A, the fulling is set into a band of calico or linen, according to the material of the shirt, into which the shirt itself is also gathered.

AN OLDER BOY’S FRONT.

PLATE 18. FIG. 3.

These are usually secured in broad or narrow plaits, according to taste, at both ends, but not stitched down the whole way. The advantage of this is to permit of the first being pulled over when washed and ironed, at the same time that it naturally arranges itself in regular plaits whilst worn. The hem is sometimes made to project from the collar to half its depth at the top, where a little corner is left, attached to which is a button-hole which buttons it over to the other side of the collar.

ANOTHER BOY’S FRONT.

PLATE 18. FIG. 4.

This is arranged in small neat tucks, and is more adapted to young boys than the last. The make of this shirt differs from the others in most particulars. The front is entire, but with false buttons, and it opens behind, where there is a slit for the purpose in both shirt and collar. Many boys have their shirts made in this manner, but the washerwomen complain much of the trouble of ironing these closed fronts.

A GENTLEMAN’S SHIRT.

PLATE 18. FIG. 5.

This front is stitched down with the greatest neatness, in the most perfectly regular plaits, either broad or narrow, according to the fashion. The distance of the spaces between the plaits also varies much; sometimes an equal distance with the width of the plait is observed, at others only a half or a quarter, and sometimes the plaits are made to overlap one another: this last mode looks heavy and common. Either buttons or two sets of button-holes are put, to admit of shirt studs, in which case, the buttons of one side are straight down the hem, and the corresponding button-holes on the other side are cut width-wise.

ANOTHER GENTLEMAN’S FRONT.

PLATE 18. FIG. 6.

This is fulled evenly at the top and bottom, and a frill of the finest cambric, sewed on to both sides. Sometimes the front is sewed in plain, and two frills sewed on one side, without any on the other, but this is rather an old fashioned shirt.

SHOULDER-STRAPS.

The shoulder-straps to gentlemen’s shirts vary also a little, but the plain long strap, Fig. 1 and 7, is the one most usually approved of, nevertheless the few following shapes will be explained, for the benefit of those who may like to adopt them.

A CHILD’S SHOULDER-STRAP.

PLATE 18. FIG. 2.

The skirt of this shirt is carried straight up to the neck-gusset, which alone forms the strap, while an extra neck-gusset, the same size, is sewed on to the skirt at B, to lengthen the shoulder; this gusset must be cut in two parts, to admit of the fulling of the sleeve between the pieces. All the sleeve is fulled into this gusset, and the sleeve-gusset below, forms the rest of the arm-holes.

A SHOULDER-STRAP FOR
ANY SIZED SHIRT.

PLATE 18. FIG. 3, 8, 9.

Some straps, instead of being continued over the neck-gusset, are divided, or split into two parts, for about half their length, and are made to be laid along, the one on each side of the neck-gusset. The piece is cut in a straight length, and merely slit far enough to admit of the neck-gusset between.

ANOTHER SHOULDER-STRAP.

PLATE 18. FIG. 4, 10.

This forms shoulder-strap and neck-gusset at once, and has a neat appearance. The strip of cloth must be of the proper length and width for straps when gored, as mentioned in the Scale: after being gored, this piece of cloth is set on the shoulder, with, of course, the wide end towards the collar.

SLEEVES FOR LITTLE SHIRTS.

Young boys often have short sleeves confined into a band, as in the right hand sleeve of the shirt marked Fig. 1.

ANOTHER SLEEVE.

PLATE 18. FIG. 2.

This is often worn by children of the working classes, and is merely a large gusset doubled, and sewed on double (see the right hand sleeve of Fig. 2).

AN OLDER BOY’S SLEEVE.

PLATE 18. FIG. 3.

This is made similar to those of a regular shirt, excepting that sometimes half a gusset only is sewed on to the sleeve instead of a square. This is less clumsy, and with a thin arm is more comfortable, though, generally speaking, the square gusset is the best, both for wear and for appearance.

VARIOUS WAYS OF PLAITING
THE SKIRT IN FRONT.

When the part is cut out in front, a piece of cambric that is not so wide is put in for the front, so that the skirt below the slit is full and requires confining; this is done in various ways:—

• Sometimes in regular fulling, as in Fig. 2.
• Sometimes in regular plaits, as in Fig. 3.
• Sometimes in gathers, brought much in front, as Fig. 4.
• Sometimes in double plaits.
• Sometimes in plaits, stitched down, as in Fig 5.

VARIOUS SHAPES OF
WRISTBANDS.

The most common shaped wristband, and one of the neatest, is that which is perfectly straight, and stitched neatly all round.

ANOTHER SHAPE.

PLATE 18. FIG. 1, 13.

Fig. 13 is a favourite shape, especially for boys. It is pointed; care must be taken in stitching it, to make the right side lie on the outside, when turned back, as in Fig. 1 (see the wristband attached to the sleeve).

ANOTHER SHAPE.

PLATE 18. FIG. 11.

This is a very neat shape, and accords with the collar of the shirt, Fig. 6. It is stitched all round, neat button-holes made, and buttons sewed on.

ANOTHER SHAPE.

PLATE 18. FIG. 12.

This is remarkably pretty, and is much worn. The wristband when unturned is nearly as wide again as its proper width, not including the stitched hems.

BINDERS AND LININGS.

Shirts should always have binders or linings, and these vary in a few particulars. The binder is intended to strengthen that part of the shirt brought most into play by the movement of the arms, especially at the back, and also prevent the wear and tear of the braces.

Gentlemen’s shirts have usually the binders very narrow, so as to leave a pretty wide space between each binder and the front, as in Fig. 4. It is however thought preferable by prudent wives, either to increase the width of the binder, so as to join the front, as in Fig. 5, or else to have a second binder or lining smaller than the first, between the regular lining and the front (see A, Fig. 6).

GENTLEMEN’S AND BOYS’
COLLARS.

These vary so very much, according to the make of the neck and chin, as also the taste of the wearer, that only a few general patterns will be introduced as guides.

Many gentlemen prefer having a narrow band sewed on to the shirt, as in Fig. 5, about three-quarters of a nail deep, on which they fasten the collar, by letting the shirt button slip through a button-hole made in the middle of the collar.

Collars are always of double lawn or linen.

A LITTLE BOY’S
COLLAR.

PLATE 18. FIG. 1,

is a neat finish to a shirt, being a simple broad band back-stitched, and a fine cambric or lawn frill crimped and sewed at the top. The band should be one nail deep, when made up.

AN OLDER BOY’S
COLLAR.

PLATE 18. FIG. 2.

This is a very pretty collar also for the children of friends, being particularly simple. It is, when made up, about two nails and a half deep. As it falls over the jacket, observe to stitch it properly. It would suit the wristbands in Fig. 12.

OTHER COLLARS FOR
OLDER BOYS.

PLATE 18. FIG. 3,

Is merely a straight band about one nail deep, and Fig. 4 is the same a little curved, so as to be deeper and more pointed in front than at the back, which gives a light appearance.

A MAN’S COLLAR.

PLATE 18. FIG. 6.

See Fig. 6. This is a very neat collar, for an elderly gentleman especially, and when made up, is about two nails and a quarter deep. The front is curved, and rather deeper than the back (say half a nail): to this collar should be worn wristbands, Fig. 11.

ANOTHER COLLAR.

PLATE 18. FIG. 14.

This is a neat shape, but, as it is doubtful whether it would suit every one, it should be cut in paper, and tried on. The Plate only represents one half, the letter A being the centre. It should be sewed into a band.

A NEAT GENTLEMAN’S
COLLAR.

PLATE 18. FIG. 15.

This is the most approved sort, and may be sewed to the shirt, or to a loose band. The half or gills, are cut crosswise of the cloth, and four of them make one collar, as they are double; in sewing them on the band, two places are left to form a kind of long button-hole, through which the strings are put when tying it on. A button-hole in the middle of the collar, enables it to be firmly fastened to the shirt, as also do the two strings sewed to the band. Fig. 17 is one gill, and Fig. 18, the band.

ANOTHER GENTLEMAN’S
COLLAR.

PLATE 18. FIG. 27.

This is also sewed upon a band, and is a remarkably pretty shape, if cut according to the plan of the drawing, on which the measurements of the nails are marked. The band, Fig. 28, has in it two button-holes; it is about one nail deep, and eight nails long. The collar is cut all in one length, and slit down in the middle to within half a nail of the bottom, thus making the slit one nail deep.

A LITTLE BOY’S
COLLAR.

PLATE 18. FIG. 20, 21.

These are particularly pretty collars for little boys of from six to eight or nine. They are made of double Irish linen stitched round, and made to fall over the dress. Frills are sometimes attached to them, and suit young children very well; two or three button-holes are made in them, to attach them to the shirt. A broad black ribbon is generally worn with them round the neck.

A MAN’S FRONT.

PLATE 18. FIG. 19.

These are worn by men and boys, to put on over a soiled or tumbled shirt, to give a neat appearance; they are, however, seldom used, it being much better to put on a clean shirt at once. It has two sides of fine lawn, with a front of cambric, which is plaited or gathered, according to pleasure, with a false hem down the middle, and buttons, so as to appear to open. This is hollowed under the neck, to the depth of a nail; two neck-gussets are attached, of one nail and a half square.

The gussets and front are sewed to a band or collar eight nails long, and about one nail and a half in depth before it is made up.

A BOY’S CHEAT
OR FRONT.

PLATE 18. FIG. 23, 24, 25.

This is a kind of habit-shirt, to which a collar with a frill is attached. Fig. 23 is the collar, which should be neatly stitched, and a frill of fine lawn or cambric, half a nail in the whole depth, set on round it. Fig. 24 is the habit-shirt of the dimensions marked on the Plate, and Fig. 5 is the cheat completed, when sewed together.

A GENTLEMAN’S STOCK.

PLATE 18. FIG. 26.

Gentlemen’s stocks are worn round the neck over the collar, and are made of stuff, muslin, horse-hair or buckram: the Figure is the shape of half of one. The halves are sewed firmly together up the centre (see M); they are bound round the edge with leather, and covered with satin, mode, or rich twilled silk. They are sometimes made, as in Fig. 29, with a fold of silk in the middle, through which two ends are passed; these are of one piece of silk, cut the cross way, and are four nails broad, and seven nails long, rounded a little at the ends.

CRAVATS.

They are generally made of fine muslin, and are the shape of a half handkerchief, being cut from a square of eighteen nails.

CLERGYMAN’S DRESS.

The cassock, the gown, the surplice, the badge or sash, the scarf or hood, and the bands, constitute the chief.

THE CASSOCK.

PLATE 18. FIG. 34, 35.

It is made sometimes of stuff, sometimes of rich black silk, in the following manner:—Cut four breadths of silk, one yard and a half long each. Two breadths form the front, and are sewed together; after which, a gore is cut from each outer side, the width of half the breadth at the top, sloped to a point at the bottom, by which means, when reversed and the seams are sown, the front is increased at the bottom to three breadths, while at the top it is reduced to one.

The other two breadths form the back; they are gored in the same manner, excepting that the gore is only a quarter of a breadth wide at the bottom.

• The shoulder is hollowed down two nails.
• The shoulder is two and a half or three nails long.
• The arm-hole is three nails deep.
• The arm-hole is cut into the stuff one nail.
• The collar is six nails long, four nails wide behind,
• and two nails wide in front.

The sleeve is shaped like a coat sleeve, with two seams down it, three-quarters of a yard long, and the whole width of the silk, which just admits of its being shaped off in the width. The wristband is four nails long, and about two nails wide. The pocket is six nails long, and just the width of the breadth of silk, which, when doubled, forms it.

In making up, run and fell the seams very neatly, making the two gores fall together between the front and back breadths.

The hem down the opening in front, is half a nail broad.

The back has a piece of sufficient width cut out from the top, A, to the waist, B (Fig. 35), to admit of its setting plain to the figure, and from the waist the skirt is left open; the extra fulness may be confined in two large plaits behind.

The top of the front is cut on each side to a point, and on each point is a little loop or button-hole; one loop fastens to a button inside near the collar, see A (Fig. 34), and the other outside, to a button at the opposite side of the neck (see B).

The collar is sewed on to the back of the cassock, so as to leave off on each side, just at the turn in front, thus allowing plenty of space for the bands. The pocket is put in straight, under the right arm, about four nails below the arm-hole (see the dotted line, Fig. 34).

The sleeves are lined with black twilled cotton, the wristbands are also lined and turned up.

A cross-way piece of silk is laid on at the bottom of the collar of the cassock inside, and also in front at A B (Fig. 34).

THE GOWN.

PLATE 18. FIG. 36, 37, 38, 39, 40.

This is made of fine bombazine, and contains four breadths, of nineteen nails long, and four gores of the same length, and three nails and a half wide at the bottom, sloped to a point at the top.

Two of these breadths fall behind, next are sewed the two gores, one on each side, and then the one breadth to hang in front on each side.

The sleeves are one yard long, and, when open, thirteen nails wide. At the end they are shaped according to Fig. 39, 40: the end, A B, being but three nails wide, and a piece cut out at C, at four nails from A. At five nails from the shoulder, a slit is made in front (see S), through which the arms appear, whilst the remainder of the sleeve is sewed up all round. At the back of the sleeve, two gores of one nail and a half wide, and two nails and a half long, are put in.

The shoulder-piece is cut according to Fig. 36.

The distance from A to B being three nails, and the depth of the sides, C to E, D to E two nails and a half, while that in the middle is only one nail and a quarter.

In making up, after sewing the seams, &c. together, and making a hem of about one nail broad all round, the two back breadths of the skirt should be fulled into the middle of the shoulder-piece. This fulling is biassed down at about the distance of one nail and a half below the first gathering. The two gores are set in on each side into the sleeve, which is set into the shoulder-piece, and also biassed; the other breadth comes in front.

The shoulder-piece is lined with buckram and silk, or black glazed calico, to make it more durable.

THE SURPLICE.

PLATE 18. FIG. 32, 33.

This is made of fine Irish linen, one yard wide, and has in it four breadths of one yard and a half long; two breadths being behind, and one on each side of the opening in front. Besides these four breadths, a gore, three nails wide and carried up to a point, is put between the front and back breadths, up to below the arm.

• The straight part of the gore comes in front.
• The sleeve, Fig. 33, is one yard and one nail long, and the whole
• width of the linen in the breadth.
• The sleeve has two gussets in it; that in front of the sleeve, or
• nearest the wrist, is thirteen nails square; the other gusset,
• which also forms part of the arm-hole, is five nails and
• a half square.

The collar is thirteen nails long, and five nails and a half in its whole width.

In making up, run and fell the seams, letting in the gores, observing to put the straight part in front. Hem down the fronts half a nail deep, and at the bottom one nail. The sleeve is very peculiar, and requires attention in making up (see Fig. 32, 33). The large gusset is put into the sleeve towards the wrist, so as to hang down very low below the arms. This gusset is rounded off at the corner, A; and forms the other corner of the gusset, B, along the doubled part, B A, cut open a piece large enough to admit of the small gusset being sewed into it; D is the doubled part of each gusset. The whole of the top of the sleeve is gathered up into the neck at the collar, while part of the side of the sleeve and the small gusset form the part that fits into the arm-hole of the surplice; the skirt is all fulled into the collar, together with the top of the two sleeves, and then nicely biassed down in two rows below the collar.

The collar is stitched all round like that of a shirt.

THE SASH OR
BADGE.

PLATE 18. FIG. 30.

It is made of rich black silk or satin.

It is the whole breadth of the silk in depth, and three-quarters of a yard long. It is folded in three or four regular plaits until it is about two nails broad; these plaits are confined at the ends by sewing them to double pieces of silk (see A), which are cut out two nails square, and rounded off at the outer ends, to a half circular form. Strings of ribbon of 3d. width, are sewed to these ends, which tie round the waist.

THE SCARF OR HOOD.

This is made of silk, but of such various forms, depending on the degree of the wearer, and the college where he has been educated, that it is needless to enter upon the subject in detail.

THE BANDS.

PLATE 18. FIG. 31.

They are made of the finest cambric, and are about two nails deep, and one nail wide when hemmed. The hem being a quarter of a nail deep. They should be a little hollowed at the top, to fit the neck. The two bands are sewed to a tape in the inside, which ties round the neck.

THE CLERK’S GOWN.

PLATE 18. FIG. 41, 42.

The clerk’s gown is made of black stuff or calimanco.

Cut four breadths of about one yard and a half long; these breadths when sewed together, leaving one open for the front, are biassed behind, from the middle of the second to the middle of the third breadth; this biassing is in three rows from the collar, the first row being one quarter of a nail below it, and the two others at one nail distant from each other.

The shoulders are next sloped from the remainder, like those of a pinafore, being three nails and a half long, and sewed up. The arm-hole is cut into the front breadth at the distance of one nail beyond the first seam, and is five nails long. The shoulder-flaps are one nail and a half deep, by five long.

The sleeve is the whole width of the breadth, about six nails wide when doubled, and is fifteen or sixteen nails long; at six nails from the top, the slit is cut in the sleeves of two nails deep on each side of the top of the arm. The bottom of the sleeve is sewed up together, and when done, instead of sewing them as the sleeve would naturally lie, the stuff at the bottom is differently folded, so as to make the two creases lie together, and thus distorts or twists the sleeve.

Strings are put to the collar, which is cut like Fig. 13, Plate 16. A broad hem is made in front, and at the bottom.

CHILDREN’S BONNETS.

PLATE 19.

The first bonnet for infants after the hood (see Chap. 4, in baby-linen), should be soft and warm, and till they are two or three years old, children should wear them of cloth, merino, silk, satin, print, or calico, in preference to straw, or pasteboard. Bonnets should be light but warm, and for young children especially, should have little trimming or ornament. A few pretty and simple shapes for both the upper and lower classes are here given and explained.

SOFT BONNET FOR A CHILD
SIX YEARS OLD.

PLATE 19. FIG. 1, 2, 3.

This may be made of cloth, merino, chintz, or nankeen, with cotton runners. It is in three parts, the brim, front or poke, the crown, and the round patch.

Cut first a paper pattern the whole size of each part of the bonnet, the Plate represents but half, therefore double the paper and cut it by the figure. Your paper must be five nails wide by four long, for the poke, Fig. 2.

Measure along the top, A B, two and three-quarter nails, the point, C, is exactly half way down the side, two nails from the top and bottom; the point, G, is two nails from the side, and one and a half nails from the top; curve along B G C. E is two and a half nails from the corner; from C to E, must be gradually sloped or rounded: go on, sloping it easily, up to F, which is one and a half nails from the top; from F to A, is quite straight.

The crown comes next; your paper must be four nails square, when doubled at D. From the corner to H, is half a nail, from H to I, two nails, slope gradually to K, which is two and a quarter nails from the top: cut in a straight line from K to L, which is situated two nails from the corner, and again in a straight line from L to M, one and a quarter nail from the bottom. From M to H, is slightly curved. The patch is made to fit the crown.