The workwoman's guide

NIGHT-GOWN BAG.

PLATE 24. FIG. 1.

This is made of Holland, calico, or thick cambric, or glazed muslin, and sometimes trimmed all round with a frill, or piped with coloured calico. It is intended to contain the night-gown, cap, also the dressing-gown, and perhaps a change of linen, and the tidy or dressing-case, and may be made to any size, according to the number of things it is intended to contain.

Its chief use is in travelling, especially in a large family, when the separate case, containing each individual’s night things are easily found together, and as easily put up in a large carpet bag. Each bag should bear either the name or the initials of the person to whom it belongs.

A TRAVELLING DRESSING-CASE
OR TIDY.

PLATE 24. FIG. 3.

These are most useful things, and no one who has once used them will travel without them, unless they can conveniently carry a dressing-case with them.

They are made of Russia duck, ticking, or stamped cloth, or any other firm material.

In making up, the greatest exactness is required to make the parts fit truly. The back, which is all in one piece, is lined with strong calico, and the various pockets are then laid on, the bottom of one being sewed a little below where the top of the next will come, so that the whole has a neat appearance: the sizes of the pockets, given in the Plate, allow for this wrapping over. The top of each pocket is bound with purple or other coloured galloon, and the divisions for the smaller ones are formed by stitching a piece of narrow galloon neatly down upon them. The whole is then bound round with galloon, and strings of the same colour fastened to the pointed end, so as to tie round the dressing-case when it is full. As purple galloon will wash well, it is best for this purpose, as most other colours fade. On each pocket is written with marking ink, the name of the article to be contained in it; these of course differ according to the fancy of the owner, but the most usual are curl papers in the triangular pocket at the top, H for hair-pins, W for thread, tapes, buttons, &c., S for soap, P for tooth-powder, T for tooth-brush, which ought also to be enclosed in an oil silk bag; C for comb, and B for hair brush.

GLOVE CASE.

PLATE 24. FIG. 4.

Gloves easily become soiled, if not covered carefully, and as white gloves, coloured, and black should be kept in separate cases, it is better to make bags for the express purpose of keeping them nicely. It is also advantageous to buy several pairs at once, as they are cheaper when sold by the dozen or half dozen.

For ladies’ gloves, take a strip of the material, about four nails wide, and five nails and a quarter long, and pipe or bind it all round with coloured glazed calico, or ribbon; cut another strip, one nail and three-quarters wide, and nine nails long, this is also piped and bound; the ends may be finished according to fancy, either left square, rounded off, or turned down to form a triangle. Crease both strips in half their length, and lay the middle of the first strip crosswise upon the middle of the other, so that the longest piece lies underneath, after pinning them very evenly together, stitch them firmly with small stitches in the piping, so as not to be seen. Strings, or a button and button-hole are fixed to the ends of the longest strip.

White gloves may be put between the two strips and the coloured ones above, when they are laid in, fold the side of the smallest piece over first, then the long one, and button it together.

On the outside mark the name, and the colour of the gloves.

Gentlemen’s glove cases vary only in being larger.

POCKET HANDKERCHIEF CASE,
COMMONLY CALLED
PORTE MOUCHOIR.

PLATE 24. FIG. 5.

This is usually made of silk, and is lined with muslin or sarsenet, having perfume between the silk and the lining, and when put in ladies drawers, with the handkerchiefs laid in, gives them an agreeable scent. It consists either of one or two pockets, generally the latter, so that in folding up, the case is merely doubled over.

The case is about four nails wide, and if intended for double pockets, nine nails and a half long, each pocket being full four nails, and allowing half a nail for turnings in, and a nail space between them, cut out the lining, and two pieces of fine muslin the same size, and lay them as follows:—

First the silk, next one piece of muslin, then sprinkle the scent freely all over it, after which place the other piece of muslin, and then the lining, pin them evenly, and run them round at the edges. Quilt it or not, according to pleasure.

The quilting keeps the scent in place; the ends are turned up the two nails on each side, and the whole is bound with ribbon. Sometimes the initials of the owner are marked on the outside. For a suitable perfume, see Receipt, No. 14.

SHOE OR BRUSH AND
COMB BAG.

PLATE 24. FIG. 6.

These are very convenient in travelling, as they save much paper, and take up little room, they are made of different materials, according to the shoe to be put in. If for walking shoes, a coarse brown canvass called earn, is the most suitable. For house shoes, calico or Holland, and for satin slippers, old silk. The bags are made to draw up at one end in the usual way, and should be just wide enough to contain the shoes, but as they are useful to put in one’s muff, or to carry in the hand when going out to dine or spend the day, it is as well to leave sufficient space at the top for a pair of stockings above the shoe. The name of the owner, and the quality of the shoe, should be put outside.

ANOTHER SHOE BAG.

PLATE 24. FIG. 15.

This is a better shape for large shoes or ladies’ boots, as they lie flatter when packed in separate pockets. The bag is therefore back-stitched up the middle, and a button put on for the upper flap to button upon.

A MAT.

PLATE 24. FIG. 7.

These are very useful to put on handsome tables, or to use as kettle holders. They are made with wool, which forms a fringe similar to that on a rug. Procure a piece of coarse flannel, the size wanted for the mat, which must be hemmed or herring-boned down to make it firm at the edges. Choose a mesh of the width required for the depth of the fringe, and then after fastening the wool at one of the outer corners, commence working by carrying the wool round the mesh and fastening the loop thus made by a cross-stitch to the flannel. Observe always to work along the thread, to keep it straight, and make the fringe lie very much thicker at the corners. Continue working, never fastening off, letting the second square be about four or five threads from the outer one, and connected at the corners to the outer square by fringe added diagonally. This makes the comers full and handsome. When the fringe is all sewed on, fasten off, and then proceed to cut the fringe neatly all round, and with the scissors spread it out, or comb it, to make it look rich and full. Afterwards procure some stiff muslin or buckram and tack it behind, and then sew on neatly the silk or glazed calico lining, and the mat is complete.

BOOT BAGS.

PLATE 24. FIG. 8.

These are very useful for gentlemen whose boots take much room when wrapped in paper, which they often burst, and soil the clean linen; a boot when packed is generally rolled up from the top about half the leg, the bag should be made to fit it when thus rolled, and is on an average, about the following size:—

• The width at the top of the case, about three nails.
• The width at the bottom, about five nails.
• The length of the case when doubled, about four nails in
• front, sloped down at the top to three nails and a quarter.

NURSERY BAG.

This is used by nurses while travelling, and is very convenient for the purpose of carrying infants’ soiled linen. The bag should be of dark coloured silk, or washing material, made in two divisions, and lined throughout with oiled silk, or Indian rubber cloth, so as to be waterproof. They should be six nails wide, and five or six nails deep. The oil-silk bag should be made to draw out of the silk or outer bag. The one pocket or division holds the soiled linen, and the other pocket contains a damp sponge.

BOOK COVER.

PLATE 24. FIG. 5.

Bibles or other valuable books are often covered with cloth, leather, wash leather, Holland, &c., and for books in every day use it is far better than wrapping them in paper. Purple or claret coloured cloth looks very handsome, and when bound with ribbon, ribbon strings, and the initials marked outside, it looks finished and particularly neat. The case is merely a long piece of cloth of the width of the book, and of such a length as to lie outside, and turn in a piece to cover the inside of each flap with the book shut about two-thirds of the way. The book, when shut, takes more than when open, therefore it should be measured when shut.

ANOTHER BOOK CASE.

PLATE 24. FIG. 9.

This is a simple cover made usually of leather or Holland. One piece is sufficient to go before and behind the book, allowing an extra piece for a flap to turn over. Two strips for side-pieces complete the case. If of leather, the pieces are back-stitched neatly together; but if of Holland, &c., the sides are bound up with ribbon.

ANOTHER BOOK CASE.

PLATE 24. FIG. 10, 11.

This is made with a regular lid, as in the drawing, and buttons over.

Fig. 11 has fly pieces or bits, to lay over the book, but beneath the outer flap or lid.

A TRUNK CASE.

PLATE 24. FIG. 12.

This is made of coarse sacking or earn, and is most useful for covering large trunks, and is composed simply of two lengths of the stuff, laid one across the other, and stitched firmly together, exactly where they fall upon each other, forming an oblong or square of back-stitching, as in the Plate, of the size of the bottom of the trunk. Four holes should be made in one of the sides, on which the direction card may be more easily fastened (see A).

The ends are turned down with a broad hem, and button-holes made on the hems of the two ends, B and C, and at two or more nails from the hem at the opposite sides. In packing up the trunk, it is simply laid upon the back-stitched square of the sacking, and the sides being turned up, two at a time, they are laced up with cord, without the trouble of getting a packing needle and sewing it up every time.

A KNIFE OR FORK CASE.

PLATE 24. FIG. 13.

This is usually made of green baize, and is used for wrapping up knives and forks (both steel and dessert or silver), when not in daily use. The knives are put in one case and the forks in another. These cases are made out of half or a whole breadth of the baize, according to the width. After cutting sufficient length to hold six or twelve knives, allowing at one end enough to tie over, cut it at the top straight from A to B, which is to turn over as a side flap, and shape the rest from B to C, in a semi-circular form. Cut another long strip of baize, half the width of from B to C, lay it along and stitch it down at proper equal distances, and when done, bind it along the outer edge, and all round the case. The knives are then put in, with the blades between the pieces of baize. The flap turns over the handles, the whole rolls up, and is finally tied round with strings, sewed at the circular end.

A SACHET OR
CARD CASE.

PLATE 24. FIG. 14.

This is very similar in shape to the porte mouchoir, excepting that four little gores or hinges are put in at the sides of the pockets, to enable it to open wider and contain more cards (see A). This hinge should be creased in two, after being sewed in, and when once creased well, will always set properly. They are made of morocco paper, silk, rich satin, or velvet. A piece of flannel or demet may be put between the outside and the lining. They are sometimes embroidered or braided round the edge, with the initials or crest put in the middle. A cord or twist is sometimes put round the edge, to give a finish.

A CANDLESTICK CASE.

PLATE 24. FIG. 16.

Covers for bed-room candlesticks, teapots, cream jugs, sugar basins, dish covers, salvers, and indeed all plated or silver articles may either be made to the shape or circular. The advantage of the latter plan is, that by hemming it round and putting in a string, it will draw up and suit any shaped article, whereas cases made to fit one particular article will do for no other.

A NOSEGAY CASE.

PLATE 24. FIG. 17.

Flowers, especially geraniums, are apt sadly to injure the dress and waistband when worn; it is therefore very useful to put flower stalks in a kind of case, similar to a scissors sheath, which protects the dress completely. It should be cut out of card-board, in the shape of a wide scissors sheath, and covered all over with silk.

A WOOL CASE.

PLATE 24. FIG. 18.

This is made of thin muslin or of Holland, and is most useful for holding and preserving wools. It is made something like a housewife, having runners for the wool, side by side. The wools should be put in in shades and numbered; each colour might have six or seven shades allowed, so that it would require a long piece to admit three or four colours, with their various shades. The flaps at both ends turn over, the whole rolls up when not in use, and ties round.

ANOTHER WOOL CASE.

PLATE 24. FIG. 34, 35.

This is made to resemble thread papers, and is usually formed of muslin. It is plaited along, or doubled, like Fig. 35, and all the doubles sewed along together, thus forming a bunch of runners, for the wool to be drawn through.

A HOUSEWIFE.

PLATE 24. FIG. 19, 20, 21.

This is made of leather, stamped paper, silk, ribbon, satin, velvet, white dimity, Holland, or any other material, even common print.

Two pieces, the size of A B C D, are first of all cut out and back-stitched along, to form the thread runners, after which, another piece, E F G H, is cut out, and the places for the scissors, bodkin, &c. made, and then a long strip is cut, not only sufficient for the whole length, but to turn over at the end to form a pocket. The other pieces are neatly bound to it, and the flannel or kerseymere for needles is added. The initials may be put at the sloped end. The case may wrap up like Fig. 19 or 20.

A YARD MEASURE.

PLATE 24. FIG. 21, 22.

This is very convenient, from the small compass in which it goes, when folded up. It is similar to a carpenter’s rule in shape, and is marked with nails on one side and inches on the other.

PINCUSHIONS.

PLATE 24. FIG. 23, 24, 25, 26, 27.

Pincushions may be made of every variety of shape and material, and stuffed with bran, wool, hair, flannel, chaff, &c., &c.

Fig. 23 makes a very nice toilet pincushion, and is circular at the top, with a deep length sewed all round, which is hemmed at the bottom; it draws neatly beneath the cushion, and ties firmly on it.

Fig. 24 is very neat for a toilet pincushion, and is made to button and unbutton from beneath.

Fig. 25. Another very neat toilet pincushion, made with a fringe or frill round it.

Sometimes the cushion is of glazed calico or coloured silk, and the cover of muslin, with a handsome worked edging all round. These are very handsome for spare rooms, but too good for daily use. The colour of the cushion ought to correspond with the paper or drapery of the room.

Fig. 26 is a flat pocket pincushion, and may be circular, square, diamond, oblong, or any other shape.

Cut out the form in two cards, both of which are covered with silk. Flannel is put between, and the two sides neatly sewed together.

Fig. 27 is a drawing-room pincushion, usually made of silk or satin, and is tufted like a mattress with bows or tufts of silk. Bows are attached to all the corners.

BAGS.

PLATE 24. FIG. 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33.

Bags are made of silk, satin, velvet, and many other materials, and are almost always lined; in which case, they are done in a similar manner to sleeves.

There is a great variety of shapes, and they are trimmed with fringe, lace, ribbon, silk cord, &c., &c.

The Figures represent the shapes most in use at present, and need little description.

Fig. 32 is a double bag, being two pockets or bags, which, being sewed together up the sides and along the bottom, form a third pocket between them, which may either be left open, or have a regular silk bag sewed above.

In one pocket may be kept pencil, knife, Indian rubber, and other writing materials; in the other, money, bills, memoranda, &c.; and in the middle part, scissors, thimble, cotton, and other materials for work.

NEEDLE CASE.

PLATE 24. FIG. 36.

This is made of a strip of kerseymere, one nail and a quarter wide, which is marked out in the required number of divisions, to separate the different sized needles from each other. Each space between the divisions should be half or three-quarters of a nail, so that the length of the strip must depend upon the number and size of these divisions. After fixing upon the length and width, cutting off the strip, and marking in pencil the lines for the divisions, work over the lines in chain-stitch in silk, or lay on braid, marking at the top of each space, the number of the needles to be put in; then bind the kerseymere down with some broad ribbon, which serves likewise for the back of the case. This ribbon should be stiff and rich, and when turned over the edges of the kerseymere, should be back-stitched down very neatly. The end of the strip is usually rounded, as in the Plate, and the initials worked on. Ribbons, or a button and loop are attached to the end, to fasten it up by.

WORK BASKET.

PLATE 24. FIG. 37.

These are very pretty, light, and useful. Purchase a suitable size, of the shape of the pattern, about twelve inches long, eight wide, and three and a half deep, or smaller, are the usual sizes. As they look neater and keep better when painted, it is advisable to send them to the coach-maker’s to be coloured the shade desired (the darker, the more handsome); when quite dry, procure a good silk of a suitable colour, and also satin ribbon to match, of two-thirds of a nail wide, and line the basket, putting first muslin, and then a layer of fine flannel, and afterwards silk. It should be made exactly to fit, and be quilted in some pretty pattern all over, after which, the satin ribbon, neatly quilled, is sewed round at the top. Sometimes ladies put little pockets or bags all round, to contain a knife, scissors, money, pincushion, &c.

TRAVELLING BAG.

PLATE 24. FIG. 38.

A travelling bag is very useful for ladies, when taking long journeys, especially when they are fond of working or sketching while in the carriage.

The Fig. represents both sides of the bag complete, excepting that it requires the sides to be sewed up. It is thus laid open, or unsewed, in order to explain the plan more clearly.

The bag should be made of rich strong silk, and on one side pockets are made to contain as follows:—

• A. Needle-book or housewife.
• B. Scissors.
• C. Work and cotton.
• D. Pocket for money.
• E. Ditto for watch, or gold, &c.
•  
• On the other side, the pockets are as follows:—
• F. For a note book, or journal.
• G. For two pencils.
• H. Sketch book.
• I. Rules.
• J. Knife.

A piece of Indian rubber is fastened to a bit of galloon and confined to one end of the bag. The pockets should be put in rather lower from the top than is represented in the Plate, else the bag will not close neatly, when the strings are drawn.

SCHOOL GIRL’S BADGE.

PLATE 24. FIG. 39.

This band is made of webbing, black tape, calimanco, or any other firm material.

To the middle of the band is attached a square piece of pasteboard, or tin covered with flannel and calimanco, on which the girl’s number is marked.

On this band are put several strings of galloon or tape, to which are tied scissors, keys, pincushion, &c. A simple band of Holland, or tape would be very useful for servants, especially housekeepers, lady’s maids, and house-maids, to attach the keys belonging to their department, also scissors, cushion, pencil, &c. These bands might have button-holes, or large oylet-holes worked in them, to receive the ribbons to which the things are attached, and they should be made to button neatly behind.

Shoulder-straps might be added of the same material.

CARRIAGE CASE, OR
PORTE FOLIO.

PLATE 24. FIG. 40.

This is very useful for those ladies who drive about constantly in a town, and who have much shopping, or many calls, &c. to make.

The left hand side of the case marked A, is a porte folio to carry paper, bills, &c. with a long pencil at the side, which, when the book or case is shut, secures the two sides together, by being passed through the loops.

The other side is made with two pockets above, at B, for visiting cards, one pocket below C, for a rule, and crossed narrow ribbons between, to hold bills, &c. in. This case may be made of leather, cloth, or stamped paper, and should be laid on millboard, or pieces of tin to form the sides.

TRAVELLING PORTE FOLIO.

PLATE 24. FIG. 41.

This is convenient for travelling, when there is not sufficient room for a desk; it is made of card or book board, and covered with black silk or paper. Under the part marked A, is a porte folio for paper, the two parts being connected together by means of a wide ribbon all round. The four flaps lay over and tie across with ribbon. On the part, A, are places for sealing wax, pencil, pens, knife and paper knife, all in one, and at the corner a piece of ribbon sewed on in a circle, and made to draw up like a bag, to contain wafers.

SEAMAN’S OR TRAVELLER’S CASE.

PLATE 24. FIG. 42, 43.

This sort of case is very useful for men in all classes when travelling, and for school boys, and is usually made of Russia duck, or of leather; it is one yard long, and about one nail and a half or two nails wide. The pockets and thread-case must all be prepared before sewing them to the back. A is divided, according to the Plate, for the thread case as in a housewife, it is about four nails long, and has two flaps, C and B, at the ends, to keep the thread neat. The flap, C, is finished inside, as seen in Fig. 43, with boot hooks, &c., &c. The thread should be strong white, strong black, whitey brown, carpet thread, pack thread, and other kinds, also white and black silk.

D is a square pincushion with divisions for scissors, tweezers, stiletto, &c. Inside this pocket should slip a needle-book and sticking plaister case, both in one; the flaps of E F G H, all hook and eye down to their respective pockets, which contain fish-hooks, buttons, hooks and eyes, &c., &c.

GENTLEMAN’S TRAVELLING
DRESSING-CASE.

PLATE 24. FIG. 44.

This is made of leather of any length, according to the number of things put in. It should be the width of the longest of the articles to be put in (say the razors). A row of divisions of the proper sizes are made by a strap of leather carried all along the case in which the razor strop, boot hooks, razors, scissors, knife, tweezers, pencil, tooth brush case, shaving brush, and soap case are put. The flaps fold over, and the whole wraps up and ties round. The articles should be bought before the case is made, as the divisions can then be formed exactly to fit.

WATCH POCKET.

PLATE 24. FIG. 45.

These may be made of silk or cambric muslin. The one here represented is composed of one large and two small pockets, the latter are to hold the watch and smelling bottle, and the large pocket is for the handkerchief. The large pocket is supported by three runners of whalebone or ribbon wire. These should be put in so as easily to draw out, if the watch pocket is of a washing material. Whalebone is also put at the top of each of the three pockets.

The whole should be frilled round or ornamented with narrow lace or fringe. The size must greatly depend upon the size of the bed, but five nails long by four deep is a good average size for a large bedstead.

ANOTHER WATCH POCKET.

PLATE 24. FIG. 46.

This is the usual shape, and intended merely to contain the watch. They may be made of silk, dimity, ribbon, or any other material. Some are composed of bed-ticking, which is worked in the light stripe with coloured silk in chain-stitch, herring-boning, or any other fancy stitch. They are ornamented round with fringe, lace, or frilling.

AN INVALID’S CHAIR.

PLATE 24. FIG. 47.

This is very convenient for carrying invalids about when they have lost the use of their legs, especially for conveying them down steps, to the carriage, &c.

The two outer pieces of wood should be of beech or some other strong kind, to which handles may be attached. These pieces of wood are connected together by four or more pieces of very strong double webbing, between which three strips of strong wood are firmly secured. When used, a simple cushion is put upon this webbing, and two servants, one on each side, can carry it with ease and safety. When not in use, it can be rolled up in a very little compass.

It is particularly useful for invalids while travelling.