Lay the dress on a clean smooth table, a flannel should be well soaped, being made just wet enough with lukewarm water, and the silk rubbed one way, being careful that this rubbing is quite even. When the dirt has disappeared, the soap must be washed off with a sponge, and plenty of cold water. As soon as one side is finished, the other must be washed precisely in the same manner.
Observe that not more of either side must be done at a time, than can be spread perfectly flat upon the table, and the hand conveniently reach; likewise, the soap must be sponged off one portion of the dress, before the soaped flannel is applied to another.
The dresses should be hung up on a linen horse, in the shade, and when dry, if of a black, or dark blue colour, another sponging of gin, or whiskey, is highly advantageous.
Washed silks are spoiled if ironed with a hot iron, therefore use one of moderate heat, with a sheet of paper between.
No. 78.
INDIAN RUBBER VARNISH.
Put in a bottle two ounces of Indian rubber, cut very small; add one pound of spirits of turpentine, and stop the bottle close, that the spirit may not evaporate; leave it two days without moving, then stir the liquor with a wooden spatula, and if the India rubber is swollen, and has absorbed the spirit, add a sufficient quantity for it just to swim in the liquid. Stir it every forty-eight hours, till the India rubber is quite dissolved, which is ascertained by squeezing a little of it between the fingers; when in this state put it into a glass bottle and keep it well corked till wanted for use; the longer it is kept the better it becomes.
No. 79.
TO CLEAN PAINT THAT IS NOT VARNISHED.
Put upon a plate some of the best whiting, have ready some clean warm water, and a piece of flannel, which dip into the water and squeeze nearly dry; then take as much whiting as will adhere to it, apply it to the paint, when a little rubbing will instantly remove any dirt or grease; wash it well off with water, and rub it dry with a soft cloth.
Paint thus cleaned looks equal to new; and without doing the least injury to the most delicate colour, it will preserve the paint much longer than if cleaned with soap; and it does not require more than half the time usually occupied in cleaning.
No. 80.
HINTS ON PURCHASING FURNITURE.
A misfortune of not very rare occurrence, is the splitting of valuable tables that are veneered. We have known the infliction, and we guard others from a similar annoyance.
One of the causes may be traced to the cabinet makers; it is not unusual for them to make use of wood for the foundation, that has not been sufficiently seasoned, and is besides of an open porous texture, so different from the close hard grained wood, which is to form the veneer, that a very long time is requisite before they can manufacture their goods without risk of shrinking.
In order to ensure this certainty of seasoning, a larger stock of wood is required than is always convenient to be on hand by a cabinet maker, either from want of capital or accommodation; hence, the purchase of new furniture requires circumspection.
In this, as well as every other requisite, we would enforce the oft repeated advice, that a preference is always given to the trader of known probity.
Chance bargains, cheap to the eye, almost always become dear and unsatisfactory in the end.
Veneered furniture which is purchased from a damp warehouse, and brought suddenly into a well aired warm room will almost infallibly fly.
Chests of drawers, particularly if they be made of coarse Honduras mahogany, scarcely fail to crack, and throw up from their edges slips of veneer, which snap off, and are swept away, leaving unsightly white gaps; these have to be replaced, and look shabby and patched.
Spanish mahogany, though much more expensive in the first purchase, is far more certain, hard, rich-coloured, and durable.
It is essential that new furniture should be inured by degrees to a change of temperature, in order to prevent this hazardous warping, and unequal contracting of the wood. Tables in particular, if intended to occupy a station opposite a fire, should be kept with the grain of the wood lying longways; not the ends of the grain and the joint pointing to the fire; for want of this simple precaution, we have known a beautiful rosewood table entirely spoiled.
Spanish mahogany was the beautiful wood which was first known in England, and which was said to be of so hard and close a grain as to turn the edges of our workmen’s tools; but since our possessions and commerce have been extended to the North of America, we have been stocked with vast quantities of that open grained inferior kind, that is made into almost all our household goods, and which, from its facility of working, is so cheap, that purchasers are continually deceived by unprincipled tradesmen, by the substitution of one for the other.
No person can well be deceived, however, to whom the two sorts of wood have been explained; the one (Spanish) being rich-coloured, of an even texture, like satin, when polished, with no grain visible; the other pale, rough, and uneven when highly polished, shewing the coarse grain like threads; the latter too is so soft, that it is dented with the slightest touch, a pencil-case falling upon it, six inches from its surface, will leave a dent that never can be removed, unless the whole is plained over.
No. 81.
TO CLEAN SPONGE.
Wash them in very dilute tartaric acid, rinsing them afterwards in water; it will make them very soft and white. Be careful to dilute the acid well, as it is very corrosive.
No. 82.
A USEFUL GLUE.
This is excellent for joining wood, in furniture, &c., as it forms so tenacious a union of the parts, that the point of junction is stronger, and is more difficult to break, than any other part of the wood. Also if sawdust is mixed up into a ball with the glue, it becomes solid and elastic, so as to be fit for turning.
Beat an ounce of isinglass to shreds, and put it into a small skillet, and pour over it a pint of brandy. Set the skillet over a very slow fire, so that a very gentle heat may be applied to the mixture. When all the isinglass is dissolved, strain the solution, and put it in a wide mouthed bottle with a glass stopper, which must remain constantly closed.
At the time it is required for use, it must be liquified by a moderate heat, which renders it thin and transparent.
This solution in brandy never corrupts, and is therefore the best form of dissolved isinglass for fining wines, and other liquids.
This solution likewise serves admirably for taking impressions of coins and models, over the surface of which, a very thin coating must be poured of the melted glue.
This coating being left on the coin, medal, or seal, during several days, until it is hard, is then a tough, horny, transparent substance, bearing the impression in relief on one side, and in intaglio on the other.
Nothing can injure this glue excepting water, which dissolves it, therefore it will not serve as a cement for china, or any thing holding or coming in contact with water.
No. 83.
TO PRESERVE BRASS ORNAMENTS.
Brass ornaments, when not gilt or lackered, may be cleaned, and a fine colour may be given to them by either of the two following simple processes.
The first is, to beat sal-ammoniac into a fine powder, then to moisten it with soft water, rubbing it on the ornaments, which must be heated over charcoal, and rubbed dry with bran and whiting.
The second is, to wash the brass work with roche alum boiled in strong lye, in the proportion of an ounce to a pint; when dry, it must be rubbed with fine tripoli.
No. 84.
CHEAP SCOURING DROPS.
Take a wine-glassful of the rectified oil of turpentine, half a tea-spoonful or more of essential oil of lemons, mix them well, and preserve in a well stopped phial. If you have not oil of lemons, oil of cloves, or of cinnamon, or of peppermint, will do.
The scorning drops thus prepared, are of a pleasant odour, and will take out of silk, woollen, linen, or cotton stuffs, all sorts of grease spots, oil, paint, pitch, tar, fruit stains, &c. by rubbing a little on the satin, with a piece of flannel or woollen cloth.
A bit of silk velvet is the best rubber for silks; the drops do not affect the colour of stuffs.
No. 85.
IMITATION OF MAPLE WOOD.
For frames or furniture. The stain is merely aquafortis, washed on with a brush; as soon as it has been hastily brushed over, hold the article to the fire, it will become yellow in a few minutes. It is then to be brushed over with copal varnish, and left to dry in the sun or open air; two or three coats completely fill the pores of the wood; then rub it gently with a bit of flat pumice-stone, and give it another coat, perhaps two, letting it be completely dry between each; then polish again very gently, and finish off with flour and a soft rag. It is as good as French polish, and may be washed at any time.
No. 86.
RECEIPT FOR FRENCH POLISH.
- One quart of rectified spirits of wine,
- Two ounces of seed lac,
- One ounce of shell lac,
- One ounce of gum sandrach,
- One ounce of gum copal,
- One ounce of camphor,
Pound the gums together and put them with the whole of the other articles into a stone bottle; cork it securely, and place the bottle in hot water, shaking it often, till all be dissolved.
A very small quantity is said to be used at a time, and only a small surface of the piece of furniture is covered with the liquid, and that is rubbed off immediately; a little more is then applied, which is also rubbed off, and this is repeated till the desired polish is attained. Another part of the table &c. is then treated in the same manner, till the whole surface is polished.
No. 87.
TO CLEAN HAIR BRUSHES.
The best mode is to use soda, dissolved in cold water, instead of soap and hot water; the latter very soon softens the hairs of the brush, and the rubbing completes their destruction. Soda having an affinity for grease, cleans the brush with very little friction. Hair brushes are generally chosen by the whiteness and delicacy of the hair, it is therefore prepared (which is injurious to them) to suit the taste of purchasers. Dark white, coarse thick Foreign bristles make the most durable brushes.
No. 88.
TO CLEAN KID GLOVES,
WHITE OR COLOURED.
Have ready a little new milk in one saucer and a piece of brown soap in another, and a clean cloth or towel folded three or four times. On the cloth spread out the glove smooth and neat; take a piece of flannel, dip it in the milk, then rub off a good quantity of soap on to the wetted flannel, and commence to rub the glove downwards, towards the fingers, holding it firmly with the left hand. Continue this process till the glove, if white, looks of a dingy yellow, though clean; if coloured, till it looks dark and spoiled; lay it to dry, and the old gloves shall look nearly new. They will become soft, elastic, smooth and glossy.
WASHING AND IRONING.
As the appearance of many articles of dress depends greatly upon the skill of the washerwoman, it is thought that a few hints on the subject may not be misapplied; these have been collected from experienced laundresses, and from that excellent little work “Cottage Comforts.” The first things to be attended to are, the articles required for both wash-house and laundry, which are as follows:—
1st. Large and Small Washing Tubs.—These should be of smooth wood, with no nails, or iron hoops outside, lest the linen should be torn or rusted.
2nd. A Copper Furnace in which to boil the Linen.—If required for large washings, it should be capable of holding eighteen or twenty gallons of water.
3rd. A Maid or Dolley.—These are sometimes circular like a barrel churn, and sometimes upright, they are used for shaking and rinsing dirty and coarse linen.
4th. Lines.—These should be of worsted, if not too expensive, otherwise soft flaxen lines answer well. When they are done with, and dry, they should be taken down, wound on a skein, and put carefully aside until wanted.
5th. Line Pegs.—These should be of white soft wood; they must be kept very clean for use, and counted before being put away.
6th. As Rain Water is essential for many articles, if none is at hand, a cask should be kept, to catch what falls from the house.
FOR THE LAUNDRY.
The following articles are in use.
- 1st. Ironing cloths or blankets; these are generally made of
- proper kind of flannel called fearnought; they should be
- carefully dried when put away, lest moths should destroy
- them.
- 2nd. A mangle for heavy linen.
- 3rd. The common irons for lighter articles.
- 4th. The Italian iron for frills, &c.
- 5th. The sleeve iron.
- 6th. The box iron.
- 7th. The gaufiering iron.
ON WASHING LINEN, &c.
A good washerwoman will examine carefully the linen she has to wash, and rub soap on to such parts as require it the most, as the collars and wristbands of shirts, taking care that the water is not too hot, otherwise it will set in the dirt.
She afterwards twice thoroughly washes out all her white things in plenty of white warm lather, shaking each article out, and examining if every spot or stain is removed. She then boils them, taking care not to put too many into the copper at once.
A small quantity of soft soap thrown in to the boil, helps to give a good colour to the linen, and if well washed out of the boil, as all linen ought to be, and afterwards well rinsed in plenty of spring water, no unpleasant smell will be retained.
The rinsing water should be made moderately blue, by means of stone blue tied up in a flannel bag, and squeezed in.
Such things as are to be starched, will be much clearer if they are first dried; then dipped in the starch before it is quite cold; then dipped in cold water and dried again; then once more dipped in cold water, spread upon a coarse dry cloth, and rolled up; by this mode also, their sticking to the ironing cloth, will be prevented.
The best way to make starch, is, very gradually to moisten with cold water, a table spoonful of starch; when quite smooth, stir it into a pint of boiling water, with a morsel of white wax, and let it boil gently for several minutes, stirring it all the time; when poured out, cover it over with a plate, to prevent a skin forming at top, which is both troublesome and wasteful.
To prevent flannels or woollen stockings from shrinking, pour over them, when new, boiling water; suffer it to remain till cold, then hang them up without wringing; and when dry, shake them well.
Greasy spots may be taken out of all kinds of woollen cloths, blankets, scarlet cloaks, or table baizes, without injury to the colour, by washing them with gall, instead of soap; the gall may be had at the butcher’s, at 3d. a pint.
A pint mixed up in a good sized tub of soft water, will be sufficient for several articles; it will lather exactly like soap.
This is the process used by the scourer. The articles so washed, will require to be several times rinsed in water, to remove the smell of the gall; when dry, they should be removed, and suffered to remain in the mangle all night, after which, they will appear as good as new.
In washing prints the colours should be rubbed as little as possible, for which reason it is a good thing to boil a lather of soap till it is like a jelly, mix this jelly with cold water, and wash them in it. It is a good plan also to wash coloured things the first time, in the suds in which flannels have been washed, if it is not too dirty. They should be taken immediately from one water into another, and not suffered to lie together damp, or they will dry streaky.
When washed, rinse them twice in spring water, and hang them out immediately, without wringing.
Blankets are washed with soft soap.
Gall is used for bombazines and stuffs.
Any thing that has been singed in the ironing should be wetted with cold water, and laid in the air.
Soda may be put in the water in which very greasy cloths are washed, but it is liable to spoil other things.
Grease may be taken out with cold water and suds.
Men and boy’s stockings should be steeped, and stewed in cold water and soap, in a slow oven, or boiled.
HANGING TO DRY.
Stockings should be hung by the toe, to prevent the feet becoming thick.
Gowns should be pinned up by the shoulders, rather than by the bottom of the skirt, or the body lining becomes discoloured.
MANGLING AND IRONING.
Damp over the things, and iron or mangle them; the latter is used for heavy linen, such as sheets, towels, table cloths, &c.
Those articles which have buttons or thick plaits should not be mangled; the mangle is injured by them; besides the buttons are broken to pieces, and the plaited articles cannot be made smooth.
In ironing, be careful first to rub over something of little value, lest fine things be either scorched or smeared.
The Italian iron is used entirely for puffs, frills, &c.
The sleeve iron, which resembles a mushroom, having a half circle at the top, to which is attached a handle or stalk, is put up through the opening of the sleeve towards the wrist, and the sleeve is drawn or passed over the iron backwards and forwards until it is all properly ironed. This only suits some kinds of sleeves, but is remarkably good for them.
Let every thing be thoroughly dried, and aired by the fire, otherwise they will have a tumbled, half finished appearance, besides exposing the wearer to the risk of taking cold.
CLEAR STARCHING.
Wash out the articles to be clear starched, and then in a very clean vessel, put about two table spoonsful of water to two ounces of starch, wet it and mix it well up into a paste, pour about half a pint of boiling water upon it, keep stirring it all the while, till of the proper consistency, then boil it up well for a quarter of an hour, and by adding a little white wax, it prevents the starch sticking to the iron.
Dip the articles in, and wring the starch out again very dry, spread the things on a clean cloth, and then roll the cloth and articles together very tightly. It should remain thus about two hours, and then be ironed nicely.
The iron should be very clean; to effect this, rub it each time on taking it from the fire, upon a little sand paper and a cloth.
GAUFIERING.
This may be done either with gaufiering irons, or by means of straws, which are brought in bundles prepared for the purpose.
The following is the manner in which the straws are used:—
Procure a board about a yard long, and six nails broad, cover it with flannel, and fasten two tapes length-wise, leaving about a quarter of a yard between them; then pin the net to the flannel at one end, and place a straw over the tapes (between which the net is lying) and under the net, the next straw is laid under the tapes and over the net, and so on alternately, taking care that the upper straws are put close to each other, upon the under ones, forming two layers of straws. When all the net is folded, dip a coarse cloth in water, and wring it as dry as you can, lay this upon the net, and iron it dry, pressing on the board as much as you can without splitting the straws; remove the cloth, and place the board before the fire for half an hour, when you may draw out the upper straws, and run in some cotton to secure it, after which, the remaining straws may be taken away, and the work is complete.
Some persons hold the board in the steam of a kettle for some time and then dry it before the fire, in preference to ironing it.
Some others sprinkle it with very weak starch water, gum water, or rice water, before ironing.