The workwoman's guide

For the small of the leg, one square or breadth; for the heel, half a square; for the narrowing on each side of the instep, one quarter of a square; from the heel to the narrowing of the toe, one and a half square; for the narrowing, a quarter of a square.

Observe, that the squares always relate to the breadth of the stocking, at the time the next square is begun.

In making up stockings, see that the pins and worsted are suitable to each other; observe also to knit regularly, and let but one person knit each pair, otherwise they will not match or look well.

Stockings are knit with four pins, three of which hold the stitches, and the fourth serves to knit with.

After setting on the number of stitches required, dividing them equally on the three pins (always observing, however, that one pin has an uneven number), commence knitting round and round, according to the scale, taking care always to make the middle or odd stitch in the one pin a turn-stitch, which forms a kind of seam down the stocking, and serves as a guide, by which the place of narrowing is more easily ascertained.

After welting several rounds or bouts, continue knitting and widening, or narrowing, according to the scale, observing to widen or narrow invariably on each side, within one loop of the seam-stitch.

For a description of welting, widening, narrowing, binding, &c., refer to knitting stitches and terms.

After knitting the heel and foot, the stitches are put upon two pins instead of three, and the narrowing begun and continued; after which it is fastened off, and the stocking completed.

SCALE FOR STOCKINGS.

Observe these are the proper proportions for stockings, when knit with coarse worsted and pins.

SOCKS.

PLATE 21. FIG. 22.

Socks are often worn by men and boys of all classes, and are made similarly to the stockings, excepting that the knitter begins immediately after the two squares knit for stockings; welting, of course, several bouts.

GARTERS.

PLATE 21. FIG. 33.

These are chiefly worn by females, and are merely narrow strips of knitting, of three-quarters of a yard long, and a nail, more or less, wide.

They are made of worsted, cotton, or soft wool; the latter is most elastic and pleasant.

For garters, set on from twelve to twenty, or even thirty stitches, according to the fineness of the material.

Knit backwards and forwards till of the proper length, when fasten off. Some persons prefer a loop at the end; for which purpose, when near the end, divide the stitches equally upon two pins, and knit each pin about ten ribs, after which connect them together by binding them in fastening off.

Garters are sometimes knit by putting the material, which is fine, twice round the pin at every stitch, letting the pin be very thick.

Garters are sometimes ribbed, at others knit, in a succession of squares of different patterns.

BABYS’ SOCKS.

PLATE 21. FIG. 24.

There are now eleven ribs and twenty-four loops on your pin. Put twelve on another pin, and add fourteen. Knit three ribs, and narrow at the toe. Knit three ribs, narrow at the toe. Knit three ribs, narrow at the toe. Narrow at the heel every other row three times. There ought to be thirteen ribs. Add fourteen loops to the twelve left on the other pin, and do the same. Join the two together and sew up the sock.

BABYS’ SOCKS,
ANOTHER KIND.

Set on twenty-four stitches. Widen at the beginning of each row, till there are twenty-eight stitches. Knit ten ribs, narrow at the heel, twice at one end. Take twelve on one pin and add twelve, make another side the same, and fasten off. Add fourteen stitches to the twelve that were left, widen each end every rib till there are thirty. Knit ten ribs and fasten off.

BABYS’ SOCKS OR BOOTS.

PLATE 21. FIG. 25.

• Set on twenty-two stitches.
• Knit three ribs, widening at the beginning and end of each rib.
• Knit five ribs, widening at the toe end of each rib.
• Stitches altogether, thirty-three.
• Knit three plain ribs,
• Take off eleven stitches from the toe end upon one pin, and
• fasten off the rest.
• Knit six ribs, widening every rib at the toe,
• Knit six ribs, narrowing every rib at the toe,
• Add twenty-two stitches to the eleven already on the pin,
• making thirty-three.
• Knit three plain ribs,
• Knit five ribs, narrowing at the end of each rib,
• Knit three ribs, narrowing at the beginning and end of each rib,
• and fasten off.
• This forms the shoe part of the sock, and is knit of some pretty
• colour, as green or blue.
• For the sock or upper part, pick up twelve stitches from the front
• or top of the shoe, and knit with white wool.
• Knit nine ribs, connecting it with the sides, by picking up the
• stitches at each edge, as you knit along
• Pick up the remaining coloured stitches on each side,
• Knit three plain ribs, and then one row widened at the beginning
• and end alternately, for four times;
• Then knit two ribs, after which, one rib more of coloured work,
• and fasten off,
• Sew up the seams, and the sock is completed.

BABYS’ SOCKS,
OR SLIPPERS.

PLATE 21. FIG. 26, 27.

This is a very pretty kind of sock, and from being worn in two colours with a kind of sandal, resembles slippers worn over stockings.

• Set on twenty stitches of coloured wool,
• Widen one at the beginning and end of each rib, four times,
• Widen at the beginning, or toe end of each rib, for two ribs,
• Knit two plain ribs,
• Knit nine stitches at the toe end, and fasten off the
• remaining ones,
• Knit the nine stitches, two ribs plain,
• Widen at the beginning, or toe end of the three next ribs,
• Knit three plain ribs,
• Narrow at the beginning, or toe end of the next three ribs,
• Knit two plain ribs,
• Knit the next row, which should consist of nine stitches,
• and add twenty-one stitches,
• Knit two plain ribs,
• Narrow at the toe end of each rib, for two more ribs,
• Narrow at the beginning and end of each rib, for four times,
• and fasten off,
• Pick up thirteen stitches, in the front of the boot,
• Knit eight plain stitches in white wool,
• Widen at the beginning, and end of the next rib,
• Knit one plain rib,
• Pick up the stitches on both sides at the top of the boot
• on the same pin,
• Knit two plain ribs in coloured wool, and continue afterwards
• in white wool,
• Narrow at the beginning and end of the next rib,
• Knit two plain ribs,
• Widen at the beginning, and end of the next rib,
• Knit three plain ribs,
• Widen at the beginning, and end of the next rib,
• Knit three plain ribs,
• Knit another rib in coloured wool, fasten off, and put a little
• ribbon bow in front of the boot.
• Sew or lace up the square in front of the boot all round.

CHILD’S LONG SOCK.

PLATE 21. FIG. 28.

This may be knit either of two colours, or entirely of white.

• Set on thirty-four stitches,
• Knit sixteen rows, turning every other stitch to form a welt,
• Knit one rib of coloured wool and two of white, alternately
• four times,
• Knit two ribs white,
• Take fifteen stitches on one pin, and add fifteen stitches,
• Knit twelve plain ribs in coloured wool,
• Knit three ribs, narrowing at the beginning and end of each row,
• and fasten off;
• Take up the fifteen stitches which project beyond the leg,
• and which form the top or front of the boot,
• Knit twelve plain ribs,
• Knit three plain ribs, narrowing at the beginning and end
• of each row, and fasten off.

The loose slit in front must be connected to the shoe part, by knitting two stitches in the centre, forming a hole on each side, through which the ribbon is drawn. Sew up the sock and it is completed. Sometimes the boot has a little white intermixed with the colour; in which case, the coloured wool is simply laid inside, and brought forward when wanted.

CHILD’S FIRST STOCKING
OR SOCK.

PLATE 21. FIG. 29, 30.

This is commonly made with fine cotton, letting two rows be knit in stocking, and one in garter or turn-stitch, alternately the whole way.

• Set on twenty-two stitches to each of three pins,
• Knit round and round for fifty-four rows,
• Put thirty-three stitches on one pin for the heel,
• Knit thirty-three rows, and bind the heel,
• Pick up the remaining stitches, so as to have
• twenty-two again on each pin,
• Narrow once at each end of the heel for five rows,
• Knit seventy-three rows,
• Bind down the toe and fasten off.

THE RIBBED BOOT.

PLATE 21. FIG. 31.

• Set on twenty stitches on each of the three pins,
• Knit a square,
• Put thirty stitches on one pin, and the remaining thirty
• on another pin,
• Continue knitting the thirty stitches on the pin for the instep,
• towards the toe, which is generally about two squares,
• Then narrow at each end till but five stitches remain on the pin,
• then fasten off;
• Next, take the other thirty stitches, and knit a square for the heel
• and fasten off;
• Knit two gores to put in between the front and heel on each side,
• for which purpose,
• Set on twenty stitches, and narrow at the beginning of every other
• row till it ends in a point,
• Set in the gores,
• Next, make a sole by setting on fourteen stitches, or any number,
• according to the width of the
• foot. Knit it straight along, till of a sufficient length,
• Sew the sole upon the boot, and the whole is complete.
• This boot is generally ribbed by knitting two stitches and
• turning two.

THE OVER SHOE.

PLATE 21. FIG. 32.

This is very convenient to slip over a satin shoe, or as a house shoe.

• Set on thirty-four stitches.
• Knit a plain square, double it, and sew it up one side
• to form the heel; sew up about three inches to form
• the instep, and pucker in the end for the toe.

THE SNOW-HEEL.

PLATE 21. FIG. 33.

This is very useful in slippery weather for persons to put over their shoe or boot heels, to prevent their falling. It is particularly good for old people and children.

• Set on sixty-six stitches on one pin,
• Knit five ribs,
• Finish off four stitches on each side, and continue knitting
• the middle part,
• Knit fourteen ribs,
• Knit twenty-five stitches, then narrow; knit six, again narrow,
• and then knit the remainder.
• Continue narrowing every alternate row twice in the row,
• reducing the six centre stitches every time, so that at the
• sixth narrowing there are none of them left. Fasten off.

LITTLE NIGHT BOOTS.

PLATE 21. FIG. 34.

These are made by knitting a piece of six nails long, and a nail and a half or more deep. This, when fastened at the ends, is sewed to a sole, which is made by knitting an oval piece.

A VERY PRETTY
OVER SHOE.

PLATE 21. FIG. 35.

SOCKS FOR INVALIDS, OR
THOSE WHO HAVE COLD FEET.

These are very useful for those who have cold feet, either to wear in bed, or slip over the stockings when dressing; and as they set quite close to the foot and ankle, they give a great deal of warmth.

They are best made of floss wool of five or six threads, and about two and a half ounces of wool is sufficient for each pair. Whalebone or wooden pins are used; they should not be very thick, considerably less than a drawing pencil.

For women’s full sized socks cast on thirty-six stitches on three needles, and knit ten plain rows, then turn the first stitch of the next row; after this, for the thirty following rows, narrow thus—the two last loops of the last needle must be knit as one; turn the first loop of the next row, and take the two next loops off at once, taking hold of the loops at the back instead of in the usual way. After this you begin to welt, and the depth of the welting is regulated by fancy.

VERY PRETTY KNIT BOOTS.

PLATE 21. FIG. 36.

Commonly called Derby jail boots, at which place the female prisoners are employed in making them.

These boots may be knit in two wools, white and coloured. They should have leather soles sewed on, to make them more durable. They should have fringe, and worsted platted strings.

NIGHT SOCKS.

VERY NEAT NIGHT SOCKS.

PLATE 21. FIG. 37.

• Set forty-six stitches on one pin,
• Knit twenty-seven plain ribs,
• Add twenty stitches, setting them equally on three pins,
• Knit twenty-six plain bouts or rounds,
• Divide the stitches, letting half of them lie on one pin,
• and the other half equally divided between two pins.
• This arrangement makes it easier to knit than on two pins,
• and, at the same time, distinctly marks the half for the
• two narrowings;
• Narrow on each side of the pin with half the stitches.

SQUARE NIGHT BOOTS.

PLATE 21. FIG. 38.

KNIT SOLE.

PLATE 21. FIG. 39.

KNEE CAP.

PLATE 21. FIG. 40.

• Set on one pin forty-seven stitches,
• Knit plain seventeen ribs,
• Next row, knit twenty-three plain stitches, widen, knit a stitch,
• widen again, and knit the remaining twenty-three stitches.
• Every alternate row, widen at each of the above widenings exactly
• in a straight line, so that the increase of stitches falls
• in the centre, forming a gore or half diamond.
• Knit sixteen plain ribs,
• Next row, knit twenty-three plain stitches, narrow, knit
• thirty-six stitches, narrow again, knit the remaining
• twenty-three stitches.
• Every alternate row, narrow in a straight line, over each of
• these two narrowings, so as to reduce the stitches between
• by degrees to a point again, at the end of thirteen ribs.
• Knit thirty-one plain ribs;
• Next row, fasten off four stitches, and knit the rest of the row;
• knit a plain row;
• Next row, fasten off four more stitches, and knit the rest of
• the row; knit a plain row;
• Next row, same as above, and then fasten off,
• and sew up the seams.

KNIT GLOVES,
LARGE SIZE.

Put eighteen stitches on a pin, leave about thirteen rows open (by knitting backwards and forwards instead of round) for the thumb; knit round till you come to the fingers. Put half the stitches on one pin, and half on the other. Take nine stitches off each pin for the first finger, and add eight between the first and second finger to make a gore, then there will be twenty-six stitches on your pins altogether; knit two rows plain, narrow every other row at each end of the eight loops you added, for three times on each side; there should now be twenty stitches left. Knit plain till the finger is long enough. Then narrow twice at each end of the finger, leaving one stitch between the two narrowings on each side. Do this every other row three times, when there will be eight loops left, divide them on two pins and bind them down. For the second finger, take six stitches off each pin, and pick up eleven stitches for a gore, between the second and third fingers. Knit two rows plain; there should then be thirty-four stitches; narrow every other row on each side of both the gores three times. There should then be twenty-two stitches. Finish the finger like the other. For the third finger, take six stitches off each pin, pick up ten at the bottom of the last gore, and add ten for the new gore; there are then thirty-two stitches. Narrow as before, and there should then be twenty left. For the little finger, pick up ten stitches for the gore, and the six off the two pins make twenty-two, after the narrowings there should be sixteen stitches left. For the thumb, pick up three stitches at the bottom of the hole, and knit backwards and forwards, picking up an extra stitch each time, till there are sixteen stitches on a pin, then pick up three at the top, and knit backwards and forwards till there are eight. Join all together, and knit round; finish the thumb as the fingers.

DRIVING MITS.

PLATE 21. FIG. 41.

These are very useful for gentlemen or coachmen, in severe weather, being double on the out, and single in the inside.

Set on forty stitches on ivory pins, of thick soft floss wool. Knit several rows in double knitting until half the muffatee is completed, when knit the remainder in imitation double knitting, which is not so clumsy for the palm of the hand, when grasping reins, &c. When completed, sew it up, leaving a hole of a full nail for the thumb, at half a nail’s distance from the end.

BABY’S MITTENS.

PLATE 21. FIG. 42.

Set on twenty stitches on each of three pins, and knit plain one square.

Knit backwards and forwards along two of the pins, letting every other row be turn-stitch, for another square, and fasten off.

Knit the other pin in a similar manner for thirty rows, and fasten off.

Sew up the hand and thumb, and add a fringe or a ribbon to tie, or, if preferred, it may be begun with a welt at the wrist.

MITTENS.

Set on twenty-two loops on each of the three pins, welt twenty rows, knit one row plain, next row alternate turn and plain, third row plain, fourth row alternate plain and turn, so that the plain stitch is over the one that was turned before, and so on till you come to the beginning of the thumb. Then knit backwards and forwards, leaving a hole for the thumb. Then knit round again, and finish with a welt. To make a thumb, pick up three loops at the top of the hole left, and knit backwards and forwards, picking up an additional loop at the end of each row, for about ten rows. Then pick up three loops at the bottom of the hole, and do the same till you meet the stitches at the top. Join all together and knit round and round till it is long enough; welt five or six rows and finish.

THE KNIT ARMLET.

PLATE 21. FIG. 43.

This is very suitable for school girls to wear over their arms, or for old persons, or people when travelling. They may be made as high as the elbow, or up to the shoulder. Little children, in severe weather, wear them over their little naked arms to prevent them from chapping. Fine black lamb’s wool is most usually worn, in which case, it should be well steeped in vinegar, and then dried, to prevent the dye coming off.

For a grown-up person, one hundred stitches will reach to the elbow. Knit plain, as you would a garter, backwards and forwards, using large ivory or steel pins. About twenty rows (more or less, according to the size of the arm) are sufficient. Sew down the whole length, leaving an opening of about a nail long to admit the thumb, sewing beyond it to the end, about half a nail or less. When worn, they cling to the hand and arm, keep them warm, and look particularly neat.

Some persons prefer them welted at the top and bottom, or ribbed the whole way.

KNIT MUFFATEE.

PLATE 21. FIG. 44.

This is made simply by setting on forty stitches, and knitting three rows plain and three rows turn-stitch, till wide enough, when it is sewed up, leaving a hole for the thumb. It looks very neat in black or light grey. Use finest wool and pins.

MUFFATEE.

PLATE 21. FIG. 45.

• This is in plain knitting.
• Set on twenty stitches,
• Knit twenty-eight ribs.

Fringe is sewed on with a carpet needle in a kind of cross-stitch, being wound over a mesh of the proper width.

MUFFATEE.

PLATE 21. FIG. 26.

This is extremely pretty, made of the two coloured ribbed stitch, or the two coloured chain stitch.

Set on thirty loops, and knit the first and last three loops of every pin plain knitting, of one colour, to make a kind of border. Continue this for about twenty-two ribs, when sew up, and either add fringe, or not, according to pleasure.

MUFFATEES.

Use fine pins and merino wool. Set on seventy four loops, knit six rows, backwards and forwards, then six rows double knitting, and so on alternately three times of double, and four of plain; then knit twelve double, six plain, and finish off. Sew it up.

MUFFATEES.

Set on an even number of stitches (twenty for a child, thirty for a lady, or fifty for a man) on an ivory pin.

Knit four, six, or eight stitches plain, according to the above sizes, and continue the row in imitation double knitting stitch, making as many plain stitches at the end of the row, as at the beginning.

Continue knitting backwards and forwards until sufficient is done for the thickness of the wrist.

Sew or lace it up, and it is completed.

FRILL OR RUFF.

PLATE 21. FIG. 47.

These are very soft for children, and are generally knit of two coloured wools and with ivory pins of a middling thickness.

• Set on thirty-five stitches for a child, and fifty for
• a grown-up person.
• Knit three plain rows with the coloured wool,
• Knit ten rows, putting the wool twice round the pin,
• with white wool.
• Again, knit four plain rows with the coloured wool,
• and ten rows putting the wool twice round the pin,
• with the white wool.
• Knit three plain rows with the coloured wool, and fasten off.

Make up the frill as follows:—

Plat or double each white row, making the three sets of white rows lie side by side, so as to stand up, and have a square appearance. When done, lay the frill the wrong side uppermost, and sew the middle row of each set of stitches together, side by side, all along.

Sew a ribbon at each end, to tie.

A RUFF.

PLATE 21. FIG. 48.

This is particularly useful for children to tie round the neck, and is knit with fine wool and coarse pins. It may be knit in the raised French stitch, or the open hem, or any other elastic soft stitch.

Set a sufficient number of stitches on the pin to be about two nails wide, and knit six or eight nails long, and when done, sew up along the side, and after drawing a piece of rolled wadding through, draw it, or sew it up at each end, and attach ribbons, or worsted cord to tie it. It resembles a boa in shape.

A SCARF.

PLATE 21. FIG. 49.

Set on sixty stitches (more or less, according to taste), always choosing an even number, and knit along in the “Imitation Network Stitch, No. 8,” to the length required, from one yard and a half to two yards. Next make a fringe by setting on eighteen stitches, and, after knitting a sufficient quantity in the same stitch to sew along the two ends, fasten off, leaving, however, fourteen stitches to unrove, to form the fringe.

These scarfs look beautiful in shaded colours, and may be knit of floss silk, netting silk, cotton, thread, or wool. The above number of stitches is calculated for wool.

ANOTHER SCARF.

This is made of the “French Raised Stitch, No. 31,” and looks exceedingly beautiful, when made with fine wool and small pins.

The number of stitches depends, of course, on the quality of the wool; it is therefore impossible to set down any fixed number; suffice it to say it should be made of the usual width. At the ends fix some long fringe, of which there are various kinds given in this work.

COMFORTER.

PLATE 21. FIG. 50.

For one comforter, buy a quarter of a pound of lamb’s wool. The six thread, untwisted, is the best.

Set forty stitches on a pin, and, if the pins are not very thick, put the wool twice round them while knitting every stitch, which should be knit in double knitting, and may have a border and fringe at the ends to give a finish, in which case, a little more wool will be required.

COMFORTER.

PLATE 21. FIG. 51.

• Set thirty stitches on one pin,
• Knit sixty-four plain ribs, backwards and forwards,
• Pick up twenty-two stitches from the middle of the side
• of the piece, leaving twenty-one stitches on each
• side from the end.
• Knit on backwards and forwards for twenty-two ribs,
• to make a chest piece, and fasten off.
• Sew up the two ends of the long piece, and it is completed.
• When worn, the comforter is drawn over the head, letting
• the chest piece hang down in front.
• This is knit with soft wool and upon ivory pins.

ANOTHER COMFORTER,
THE SAME SHAPE, BUT
DONE IN DOUBLE KNITTING.

PLATE 21. FIG. 51.

Set on fifty-four stitches, and knit in double knitting, about sixty-six or seventy rows, and fasten off, by knitting or binding the two ends together.

From the middle of the length in front, pick up stitches for the chest piece, and knit forty rows or more, according to pleasure.

A HANDKERCHIEF.

PLATE 21. FIG. 52.

This is a small and very warm handkerchief, to wear under a shawl or fur tippet, in the winter; it is knit with pretty thick floss wool, either white or coloured, in blue or crimson it looks well; the needles used are either of wood, whalebone, or cane.

Cast on 160 common stitches, and knit one plain row, then nine rows of double knitting with a plain stitch at the beginning and end of each row, continue this double knitting, narrowing at one end, until the handkerchief is brought to five or six stitches, then take it off like a garter. This bottom corner is bound with ribbon, and two strings put on to tie round the waist, the other two ends are also bound, and a ribbon loop put on each, the ribbon passes through these loops, and it fits neatly to the figure.

LITTLE KNIT HABIT-SHIRT.

PLATE 21. FIG. 53, 54, 55.

These are remarkably nice things to wear under the shawl, as they set close to the chest, and give a great deal of warmth. They are best knit with small wooden or thick steel pins, and with floss wool, about three or four threads, and in double knitting.

The habit-shirt is in four pieces, namely, one back, two fronts and one collar.

The back should be cut out to fit the person tolerably, and the fronts joined to it on the shoulder, and brought across over the chest.

Observe, in the Plate that in Fig. 53, SS represent the straight parts, and PP the sloped.

Begin to knit the front, by setting on as many stitches as will form the length required from S to A, or top, and observe, as you continue knitting, that one end of the knitting must be much more sloped than the other, for which purpose, at that end most sloped, increase at the beginning and end of the row, but at the side which is less sloped, widen only at the end of the pin. Having made the two fronts to match each other so as to be a pair, begin making the back. Begin it at the bottom or narrow straight part at the waist; increase it at the beginning and end of each row, till sufficiently wide to go from shoulder to shoulder; after which, diminish in the same way at each end of every row to the neck. Take off or finish the few centre stitches that may remain, and knit up first on one side, and then on the other, lessening each row till it is properly hollowed.

The collar is merely a straight piece.

In making up, sew the sides marked P, to each side of the back marked ZZ, and sew on the collar all round. Put a ribbon behind, to tie round the waist, and another at the throat.

A PRETTY KNIT
HALF-HANDKERCHIEF.

Begin the handkerchief from one stitch, knit as many rows, increasing one stitch every row at the same end, until there are seven loops upon the pin.

• Begin the pattern thus:—
• Make a stitch,
• Slip off a stitch,
• Knit two together,
• Put the slipped stitch over the two just knitted in one.
• Again make a stitch,
• Slip off a stitch,
• Knit two stitches,
• Put the slipped stitch over as before,
• Continue thus until four stitches from the end of the row,
• then make a stitch, and knit the four remaining stitches plain.
• Knit every alternate row in turn-stitch;
• This alternate row must have the three last stitches knit plain,
• increasing it by making a stitch.
• The handkerchief must be one yard and a quarter long on the
• straight side. When done, fasten off.

HONEYCOMB-KNIT SHAWL.

This is made of fine lamb’s wool or yarn; it looks very well when the centre is white, with a shaded border of some bright colour.

For a small shawl, or a large handkerchief, the following quantity is required:—

• Three ounces of fine white lamb’s wool.
• Two skeins of the darkest shade of colour.
• Two skeins of the next.
• Two skeins of the next.
• One skein of the lightest.

The needles are of wood, rather fine, not so thick as a drawing pencil.

The centre is first knit, beginning with only two loops on your needle, to make the point fine; knit several plain rows, raising one loop in each row; the raising is merely knitting first the outside and then the inside of the last loop, and is continued in every row, whether plain or open, through the whole shawl.

When you have ten loops on your needle begin your pattern, which is done as follows:—