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The workwoman's guide

Chapter 738: BLANKETS.
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About This Book

A practical manual offering clear, step-by-step guidance for novices in cutting out and making clothing and household textiles. It supplies measured patterns reproduced both as cut-out shapes and finished forms, scalable by a marked square system, and covers infant garments, dress components, bonnet-making, knitting, straw plaiting, house linen, and basic upholstery. Emphasis is placed on economy, neatness, and methods that shorten labor, with instructions designed for self-teaching and school instruction. The author argues that domestic skill promotes thrift, order, and household comfort, and provides accessible techniques and moral encouragement for readers seeking greater domestic efficiency.

Knit four plain stitches, bring the wool in front of the needle, and then, taking hold of two loops instead of one, knit them plainly together; continue this till within four loops of the end, which must be knit plain. Always begin and end every open row with four plain stitches.

Knit three plain rows between each figured one. When you have from 200 to 250 loops, (which will make a good sized shawl), begin the border, which looks best dark at the edges, and shaded up to light in the middle. Before beginning the border at the top, it is best to knit three or four plain rows of the white wool; and observe, that as there is a right and a wrong side to the shawl, the first row of the border must be continued so as to suit it, by knitting one, more or less, of the plain white rows.

Begin with your darkest shade of border, and knit three or more rows of it, according to taste; then the second, the third, the lightest, the third again, second, and darkest, increasing one loop in every row, both open and plain, as before; the last three or four rows should be plain, to make the edge firm. Then fasten off.

Begin the side border by taking up all the inside loops, as those in the heel of a stocking are done, and begin with the dark shade as at the top, and in the first row only, raise a loop every fifth stitch, which may be easily done by taking up the little bars or loops that lie between the stitches; go on as before, raising one loop at the end of every row.

Be careful to begin all the borders on the same side, as, in consequence of the manner of taking up the loops, there is a difference.

The raising the loops at the side border is done to make it set loosely to the shawl, as, if it were not thus enlarged, it would be tight and confined. The corners and point of the border are neatly joined with a needle and thread.

A TIPPET.

PLATE 21. FIG. 56.

Cut out a tippet or cape of the proper shape and size in paper, and then divide it into five equal portions; each portion may be considered a gore, and by measuring by the stitches put on the pin with the pattern, the right number may easily be ascertained. These gores may be made to increase equally on both sides, as in the Plate, or only on one side. Sometimes long ends are continued with the two front gores, to make a sort of mantilla or pelerine.

Neat tippets might be made with advantage for school girls at times when worsteds are cheap.

FOR A PURSE.

Set on one pin ninety or a hundred stitches, knit the first stitch, put the silk over the pin, then slip a stitch and knit a stitch; turn the slipped stitch over the last knit one, and so on all through the pin; then seam the next row, and so on till completed, when fasten off.

FOR A PURSE

Use four pins. If the silk twist be fine it requires two skeins—if coarse, three skeins; or, if to be made of two colours, half that quantity. Cast on your three pins eighteen loops, if fine, or sixteen loops, if coarse, and begin (after one plain row) to knit in raised French stitch (see No. 31); and when sufficient rounds have been completed to form fourteen holes length-wise, knit backwards or forwards on two pins in the same stitch, to form the opening; after complete fourteen more holes or batterns, join the purse again by knitting in three pins, as before, until fourteen more holes are done, when bind down and fasten off.

FOR A PURSE,

Two skeins of silk are sufficient (generally of two colours); use four pins, set on four stitches on each pin; begin to knit plain round and round, widen one stitch each round, until you have eighteen stitches on each pin (measure here how much silk you have used that you may know how much to reserve for narrowing with), then knit one stitch plain and one turned for every round, until time to make the opening, when put all your stitches on one needle, knitting backwards and forwards, taking care to preserve the stitch by knitting the back rows properly, by turning the stitches that were before knit plain, continue this till the one skein is used up, when you are at the middle of your purse; take the other skein as many rows again, backwards and forwards, then join the opening by putting the stitches on three needles, as before, and knit round and round until you have but enough silk left for the narrowing, when begin to knit plain, narrowing every round until reduced to four stitches, as before, on each pin, when fasten off.

FOR A PURSE.

Cast seventy-five stitches on one pin; two skeins of silk are sufficient, and very fine pins are best; after knitting one plain row, continue as follows: knit one stitch plain, and then knit the silk twice round the pin, knit two stitches together in turn stitch; again put the silk twice round the pin, and knit two stitches together in turn stitch, and so on to every row, remembering that the first stitch in every row is knit plain.

PRETTY NEW PURSE PATTERN.

  • Use four pins and set on each of three pins eighteen or twenty loops,
  • Knit one plain round, and then continue for another round as follows:—
  • Bring the silk in front of the pin, slip a stitch, knit a stitch,
  • then turn the slipped stitch over the knit one;
  • Again bring the silk in front of the pin, slip a stitch, knit a
  • stitch, and turn the slipped stitch over the knit one, and so
  • on to the end of the round,
  • Knit the two next rounds plain,
  • And continue alternately knitting one round of the pattern, and two
  • rounds plain, until the purse is finished.

RECEIPT FOR A ZEPHYRINE.

This is a very convenient thing to lie over the head instead of a bonnet, especially in travelling, and is generally knit of two colours. It should be knit with Berlin wool, on two rather fine pins, with knobs at the end.

  • Set on your pin 100 stitches,
  • Knit a row plain,
  • Turn, or purl a row,
  • Repeat this twice more each,
  • Then change the colour, and continue knitting and purling
  • alternately, three rows each,
  • Again change to the first colour, and continue knitting and
  • purling, three rows more each,
  • Continue thus changing colour until there are five stripes
  • of one colour, and six stripes of the other,
  • when it is finished,
  • Then gather the ends to a point, bind them with ribbon,
  • and sew on strings to match the darkest colour.

A ZEPHYR.

This is a soft shawl to lay a baby on, or carry it out in, and is desirable on account of its warmth and lightness. Some are made square, others of a half-handkerchief shape.

In either case, set on about 130 or more stitches, and knit in honeycomb or French raised stitch, the embossed, hexagon, or any other simple pretty pattern preferred. A border and fringe may be added, according to taste, and certainly gives a rich finish to it.

A BABY’S CAP.

Put on eighty stitches on the three pins, so as to have 240 stitches; knit twelve, turning every alternate stitch; in the next row turn the stitch which was plain before; take in eighty stitches, one at every fourth stitch, so as to leave a full border; then knit one row plain, one open row, three rows plain, and twenty-four rows double knitting; then knit three rows plain, one open row, three rows plain, twenty-four rows double knitting, three rows plain, one open row, and three rows plain.

Cast on twenty-four stitches at each end of the first three plain, to form the back of the cap; then knit forty-eight rows double knitting the whole length; then take in gradually to the size of the crown in one row, knit three rows plain, one open row; again three plain; fasten off at the top, join up the back, and knit three rows plain, one open row, and three plain.

The crown is made by putting on sixteen stitches, and increasing one at each end for sixteen rows; then knit sixteen rows; then decrease sixteen rows, which forms the circle.

A BABY’S CAP.

PLATE 21. FIG. 57.

Set on one stitch on each of three pins, and knit a circular piece of knitting in hole-stitch, until there are 110 stitches altogether on the three pins.

  • Knit six ribs of stocking knitting, one of holes,
  • and one of garter rib,
  • Knit six ribs of stocking knitting, one of holes,
  • and one rib of garter-stitch,
  • Knit six ribs of stocking, one of holes, and one of garter,
  • Knit six ribs of stocking, one of holes, one of garter,
  • two of stocking, and two of garter,
  • Finish off twenty-two stitches, and divide the remainder
  • of the stitches on two pins,
  • Knit three ribs of stocking, making holes at six stitches
  • distance, which serve for ribbons,
  • Knit three ribs of garter-stitch, two of stocking, six of
  • garter, three of stocking, one row of holes, four ribs
  • of stocking, six ribs of garter, three ribs of stocking,
  • one row of holes, four ribs of stocking, six ribs of
  • garter, and three of stocking; after which three more of
  • stocking, with holes at six stitches distance, to admit
  • of a second ribbon.
  • For the border, continue knitting twenty rows in huckaback
  • stitch; for the border behind, take up the stitches
  • at the ear on each side, and knit sufficient rows in
  • huckaback stitch till each strip is long enough to reach
  • the middle of the back. Put in a ribbon behind, and the
  • whole is completed.

A BABY’S BONNET
OR HOOD.

PLATE 21. FIG. 58.

For the border, set on eighty stitches and knit in huckaback stitch, narrow one stitch at each end of every other row, till you have knit ten rows. Next, commence the head-piece, and knit six rows in double knitting, the one row of holes, eight rows of double knitting, one of holes, and six rows of double knitting, then begin to knit in honeycomb-stitch, fasten off two stitches at the end of each pin, every row until there are but twenty-four on the pin, then fasten off.

For the crown, set on five stitches, widen each row till you have sixteen loops, then knit twelve rows. Narrow at each end for two rows, knit fourteen rows and fasten off. Sew the crown to the head-piece with wool of the same quality.

Begin the curtain by taking up all the stitches at the back, and knitting six rows in double knitting, widening four stitches on each pin; then one row of holes, widening two stitches; then six rows of double knitting still widening, one of holes, widening two stitches, and double knitting, increasing till there are 150 stitches on the pin, then fasten off, and put in ribbons through the holes where wanted.

A GENTLEMAN’S
NIGHT-CAP.

PLATE 21. FIG. 59.

This cap has a very pretty appearance, something resembling old fashioned insertion-lace, as there is an ornamented border round the head. It is done with fine needles and cotton, and knit round like a stocking. The plan is as follows:—

  • Cast on any number of stitches, divisable by thirteen.
  •   1st Row. Turn one, knit one, turn one, slip one, knit one.
  • Draw the slipt loop over, knit six plain, bring the
  • cotton over, as though going to turn, knit one, bring
  • your cotton to the top and knit one.
  •   2nd Row. Turn, knit, turn, slip, and draw over, knit nine.
  •   3rd Row. Turn, knit, turn, slip, and draw over, knit five,
  • bring the cotton to the top and knit two.
  •   4th Row. Turn, knit, turn, slip, and draw over, knit nine.
  •   5th Row. Turn, knit, turn, slip, and draw over, knit four,
  • bring the cotton to the top, knit one, bring the cotton
  • to the top, knit three.
  •   6th Row. Turn, knit, turn, slip, and draw over, knit nine.
  •   7th Row. Turn, knit, turn, slip, and draw over, knit three,
  • bring the cotton to the top, knit one, bring the cotton
  • to the top, knit four.
  •   8th Row. Turn, knit, turn, slip, and draw over, knit nine.
  •   9th Row. Turn, knit, turn, slip, and draw over, knit two,
  • bring the cotton to the top, knit five.
  • 10th Row. Turn, knit, turn, slip, and draw over, knit nine.
  • 11th Row. Turn, knit, turn, slip, and draw over, knit one,
  • bring the cotton to the top, knit six.
  • 12th Row. Turn, knit, turn, slip, and draw over, knit
  • nine, knit two plain rounds, turn five rounds, knit
  • one round, throwing the cotton twice over the needle;
  • turn one round, repeat this until you have eighteen
  • turned rounds. Knit two plain rounds, turn five rounds,
  • take four needles, and knit and turn three rounds
  • alternately, narrowing at each needle end, having a
  • turn, knit and seam between each narrowing; continue
  • this until there are four loops on each needle, which
  • will draw round the tassel.

KNIT BAGS.

PLATE 21. FIG. 60, 61.

Very pretty bags may be made of fantail stitch in silk twist, for which purpose set on as many stitches, divisable by fourteen, as are required for the width of the bag. About four times fourteen or fifty-six stitches will be a useful size, adding, if preferred, four extra stitches on each end, and between each of the fourteen stitches, to separate the pattern more effectually, and make it look richer. These extra stitches will amount to five times four or twenty, making in all seventy-six stitches. Knit the four stitches of any pattern preferred; supposing the open hem, No. 4, is selected, then knit as follows:—

  • Set on seventy-six stitches, knit four plain ribs,
  • and six turn-stitch rows.
  • Open hem the first four stitches,
  • Fantail the next fourteen stitches,

Open hem the next four stitches, and so on, till the last open hemmed four stitches complete the row.

Continue as above till a sufficient length is done for both sides of the bag, after which, seam it up, and put cord and tassels to complete the whole, lining it or not, according to pleasure.

KETTLE HOLDERS.

PLATE 21. FIG. 62.

This is knit in double knitting, with a border of plain ribs round.

  • Set thirty-two stitches on one pin,
  • Knit four ribs plain,
  • Knit double knitting, letting the first four stitches and the
  • last four stitches of every row be plain knitting.
  • When the double knit part is quite square, add the four ribs
  • of plain knitting, to complete the border, and fasten off.
  • A little loop of twisted wool is put at the top to hang it by.

KNIT MATS, OR
KETTLE HOLDERS.

PLATE 21. FIG. 63.

This is knit to resemble fringe all over, and when well done looks very pretty.

Use fine needles and a common kind of worsted for knitting the wool fringe, which must be thick and soft.

Set on any number of stitches, and knit one plain row, after which, begin the next row by knitting one plain stitch, then put the wool between the pins round the fingers, and back again between the pins in front, and so on, similar to the rug stitch, No. 33.

KNIT OPEN BRAID.

PLATE 21. FIG. 64.

This is very simple, and if done with cord or thick cotton or worsted, might be very useful for sewing on, to ornament children’s dresses; or if of silk twist, for putting round pincushions, curtains, &c.

Set on one stitch, and knit as many stitches as the longest pin will possibly hold. Knit two rows plain, and then unrove one row by pulling out the pin, and draw the wool through the last loop, to keep it from roving still further. The braid is thus formed, and must be sewed on at each top and bottom loop.

KNIT MATS.

PLATE 21. FIG. 65.

Set on thirty stitches or more, according to the size required, and knit in the two coloured chain-stitch till a square is completed, when make a fringe, No. 1, and sew it round. When completed, cut it and comb it out, taking care not to pull out the bits by drawing too hard.

COVERLET.

PLATE 21. FIG. 66.

This is knit with cotton, and is composed of several squares sewed together. These squares are begun at one corner, commencing with two stitches, and increasing to fifty or more, by widening at each end of each row. It is then decreased by narrowing at each end of each row, and fastened off when two stitches are left on the pins. These squares are often ornamented, sometimes by knitting one row turn-stitch, seven rows plain, backwards and forwards, and so on, so as to form three ribs garter, and one rib stocking-stitch.

Some persons ornament each square differently, others merely sew them, so that the rows shall run or lie in different positions. A border with fringe may be put round, for which purpose, refer to the stitches for fringes, &c.

The huckaback pattern is very suitable for coverlets.

BLANKETS.

These are usually made for infants’ cradles and invalids, on account of their warmth and lightness; they should be knit with very large pins and thick wool, and in double knitting all the way, having a border of imitation double knitting or huckaback all round, to keep them more in place.

Set on from 100 to 200 stitches, according to the size required, knitting about ten ribs of border, after which the remainder is plain double knitting. Observe that the first and last eight or ten loops on each end of the pin be knit in the border-stitch.

COTTON DOYLEYS.

PLATE 21. FIG. 67.

These are very pretty, and may be made in various stitches.

The following is a particularly pretty way:—

  • Set on thirty-eight stitches,
  • Knit two plain ribs,
  • Continue knitting two plain stitches and two turn stitches,
  • remembering every two ribs to knit plain stitches over
  • turn stitches, and turn stitches over plain, so as to
  • form a kind of ornamental knitting, resembling huckaback or checks.
  • Observe, the two last, as well as the two first stitches of
  • every row are plain, to continue the border; also knit
  • two plain ribs to correspond, before fastening off. Sew
  • in the fringe, No. 2.

ANOTHER DOYLEY.

This is similar to the one before, excepting that it is knit in honeycomb or hole-stitch.

A HANDSOME BORDER AND
CORNERS FOR A SHAWL.

This is a very beautiful pattern when properly done, and would answer well for a shawl, a baby’s zephyrine, a mat, carpet, counterpane, or any other article enclosed in a square.

The border (which is a kind of fantail stitch) is ended at each corner by squares, which gives great lightness to the whole.

In beginning one of these corners, set on but two stitches on the pin to form the point; and observe, as you go on, to increase one stitch at the end of every row, until the square or diamond is knit to a sufficient width (say thirteen rows) when decrease every row one stitch at the end, until the number of loops on your pin is reduced to two again, when fasten off, and the square is completed.

The stitch with which the square is knitted is formed as follows; and the number of ribs at the side should be divisable by six and one over, to be the proper width for the border; thirteen is a very good number of ribs.

Begin the square by knitting plain every row until you have thirteen stitches on your pin (remembering to increase one stitch at the end of each row) and then continue as below.

  • 1st Row.  Knit six stitches plain,
  • Pass the cotton in front to make a stitch,
  • Knit two together,
  • Knit the remaining stitches plain.
  • Next Row. Knit plain,
  • Knit six stitches plain,
  • Pass the cotton in front, to make a stitch,
  • Knit two stitches together,
  • Pass the cotton in front again, to make a stitch,
  • Knit two stitches together,
  • Knit the remaining stitches plain.
  • Next Row. Knit plain.

Continue the above, observing that every alternate row is knit plain, and the rows between knit in the above stitch; always leaving six plain stitches at each end of the pin, to make a kind of little border to the square.

When complete, begin the border by picking up the stitches on one side of the square, and then continue thus:—

  • 1st Row.  Seam a stitch,
  • Knit a stitch,
  • Seam a stitch,
  • Knit two stitches,
  • Pass the cotton in front to make a stitch.
  • Knit a stitch.
  • Repeat the same for six more stitches; then,
  • Knit one stitch.
  • Next Row. Knit a stitch,
  • Seam a stitch,
  • Knit a stitch,
  • Knit two together,
  • Seam eleven stitches,
  • Knit two together.
  • Next Row. Seam a stitch,
  • Knit one,
  • Seam one,
  • Knit two together,
  • Knit nine plain,
  • Knit three together.
  • Next Row. Knit a stitch,
  • Seam a stitch,
  • Knit a stitch,
  • Knit two together,
  • Seam seven stitches,
  • Knit two together.
  • Continue these four rows successively, until the border is long
  • enough to insert another corner or square, as before.

GENTLEMAN’S
TRAVELLING CAPS.

These are remarkably pretty and comfortable, and should be made of shaded wool or silk, and are knit with two pins only.

  • Set on an even number of stitches,
  • Knit the first row plain;
  • Observe to slip off the first stitch of every row
  • throughout, and continue as follows:—
  • 1st Row. (After slipping the first stitch) put the wool in front
  • to make a stitch,
  • Slip off a stitch the contrary way,
  • Knit a stitch, as before,
  • Continue this until at the end of the row,
  • Next Row. (After, as usual, slipping off the 1st stitch) knit two
  • stitches together the whole way, leaving one at the
  • end to knit plain. Repeat this.

SOFA FOOT COVERS,
OR WARMERS.

These are useful for the feet of an invalid, when lying on the sofa, and are knit as follows:—

Set on one pin 174 stitches, and knit one plain row, after which knit eleven or twelve rows in any fancy stitch to form a border, and then commence double knitting, remembering to continue the border pattern at each side, by knitting the first and last twelve stitches on the pin, every row in the same fancy stitch.

Continue this until your work is square, when open it like a bag, which must be done by gently taking out your pin and picking up the loops on two pins, each pin taking up the alternate loops. Knit a similar border as that made at the beginning, to each pin of stitches, and fasten off. The foot warmer, or bag, is then completed, and may have a fringe sewn on all round, to give a finish to the whole.

RETICULE BAG.

This is knit in two colours, say violet and green.

Set on your pin any number of stitches divisible by six, (about seventy-eight is a good size), and, after knitting one plain row, fasten on the other colour and knit six stitches with the violet and six with the green, alternately, to the end of the row.

Next row, knit entirely turn-stitch, still knitting six stitches, alternately, of the two colours, taking care that each colour shall be knit in continuation of itself, so as to form distinct stripes.

Continue knitting alternate rows of plain stitch and seam-stitch, until the work is so long, as when doubled will form a well-proportioned reticule bag. Observe, in passing the wool behind of one colour across the other, not to pull it tight; when completed, fasten off; line with buckram and flannel and violet green or gold silk; put a cord of silk or wool all round, with cord handles and tassels.

This makes a durable handsome bag, and may be knit of even more colours or shades, if preferred.

Reticules knit with other stitches look very pretty, as the herring-bone back-stitch,

  • The two coloured rib-stitch,
  • The two coloured chain-stitch.

Or the above striped pattern may be varied by arranging the stripes in checks instead.

Papier machée tops are now made for bags, which look very handsome.

KNIT PETTICOAT.

For delicate children, a knit petticoat is far warmer and lighter than a flannel one, and is knit in double knitting, or in imitation double knitting:—for a child of four or six years of age, set on 400 stitches and knit the proper length, when finish with a few plain rows and fasten off. Sew up the seam to the proper distance behind.

CHILD’S KNIT STAYS.

As stays vary so very much in size, according to the make of the child, it would be difficult to form a receipt, as they should fit well, and the styles of knitters vary so much. It is better to cut, in paper, the exact shape of the stay, and then knit your stay to match it, by constantly measuring. Set on sufficient stitches on your pin to form the depth of the end of the stay, and knit several plain rows until the rise of the shoulder.

Add a stitch at the beginning of every rib until it is sufficiently raised or hollowed, to form the beginning of the shoulder-strap, then begin to hollow for the arm-hole, decreasing one stitch at the beginning of one row, and the end of the next, and so on, until the hole is deep enough, when commence increasing in the same proportion, to form the rise inside the arm-hole.

The body in front should be slightly hollowed towards the middle, and the remainder half of the body finished in the same manner, therefore, it is advisable to set down every widening and narrowing as you do it, in order that the one half may exactly correspond with the other.

These bodies generally have tape shoulder straps, but knit ones can easily be attached, by picking up six stitches on the shoulder, knitting a narrow strip.

They are generally straight at the bottom, and are usually knit of cotton, and are very elastic.

SILK WATCH GUARD.

Set on your pin seven or nine stitches, or even more if the silk is very fine.

Knit in common knitting a yard and a half in length.

Some thread their silk with beads, either black or gold, and introduce them in the knitting to form the initials or name of the wearer, or to make fanciful devices; others knit it entirely with beads of one or more colours, introducing one bead at every stitch, but the plain knitting is the neatest and handsomest of the three kinds, the other two being too gay for daily wear.

CHECKED NAPKIN RINGS.

Choose two colours, say green and gold, set on your pin with the green wool twenty-four stitches and knit one plain row, and then knit as follows:—

  • 1st Row. Knit plain four stitches, alternately of each colour,
  • to the end of the row.
  • 2nd Row. Turn-stitch (four stitches alternately of each colour)
  • to the end of the row, observing to keep the gold colour
  • over the gold, and green over the green.
  • 3rd Row. Plain knit, as in the first row.
  • 4th Row. Turn-stitch, as in the second row.
  • Repeat these four rows.

The next eight rows are knit exactly the same way, excepting that the colours are arranged so that the green is placed over the gold, and the gold over the green.

Continue alternately changing the situation of the colours every eight rows, until about one and a half nail in length is knit, when fasten off, line with buckram or wire, and silk, putting a bow at the seam where the ends are sewn together, and it is completed. Some knit these in the two coloured rib and two coloured chain-stitch.

SOFA SHAWL.

These are very expensive, but useful for invalids, on account of their warmth and lightness.

Set on five or six hundred stitches and knit a square of double knitting, or imitation double knitting, either with or without a border, if the latter is preferred, the one which is explained with corners is the handsomest, unless fringe is also required, when one of the fringe borders may be added at once.

A BOSOM FRIEND.

Set on your pin seventy stitches, and knit in imitation knitting for about 100 rows, when knit twenty-five stitches of the next row, after which take another pin and fasten off the next twenty stitches, then knit the last twenty-five stitches on another pin.

Continue knitting the twenty-five stitches on one pin in the same stitch, fastening off one stitch at every end and beginning of each row, next to the middle, which forms the hollowing round the neck.

When the stitches are reduced to four, fasten off.

Do the same with the other pin containing twenty-five stitches, and fasten off.

Sew pieces of white ribbon to the corners, to hang it by round the neck.

Some persons do not hollow out bosom friends, but knit them square or oblong.

BRACES FOR GENTLEMEN.

These may be knit in wool, cotton, or even silk. The following receipt is for cotton braces (the wool would require fewer stitches, and the silk more than the cotton).

The shape of a brace is wide in the middle, with two narrow ends.

For the first narrow end, set on twenty-four stitches, and knit two nails in length, in imitation of double knitting, or in huckaback stitch. Widen to forty-eight stitches, and knit a length of nine nails.

Narrow at each end, till reduced to thirty stitches, when put half the loops on one pin and half on another; continue knitting each end separately until three nails long, when fasten off and the one brace is completed. These two last ends should be knit with a button-hole in each, which is easily done by again halving the stitches on two pins, and knitting them separately a few rows (say eight or twelve), and afterwards joining them together on one pin again.

THE SPIRAL BOA,
OR RUFF.

Set on any quantity of stitches to form an even number of threes, say thirty-six or forty-eight, and knit a plain row in one coloured wool.

Fasten on the other colour, and knit three stitches alternately with each colour.

  • Next row, turn-stitch back again, knitting each colour over
  • its own shade.
  • Continue knitting one row plain, and turn-stitch back again,
  • observing each plain row to alter the arrangement of the
  • colours one stitch, which gives the shades a spiral direction.
  •  
  • For a clearer explanation, observe as follows:—
  •  1st Row. Knit plain three grey and three scarlet stitches,
  • alternately to the end of the row.
  •  2nd Row. Turn-stitch back, keeping the colours over their
  • own shades.
  •  3rd Row. Knit two grey stitches, then three scarlet and
  • three grey, alternately, to the end of the row, leaving
  • one grey at the end.
  •  4th Row. Knit the colours over their shade in the last row
  • in turn-stitch.
  •  5th Row. Knit one grey stitch, then three scarlet and three
  • grey, alternately, ending with two grey at the end.
  •  6th Row. Turn-stitch back again.
  •  7th Row. Knit three scarlet and three grey, alternately to the end.
  •  8th Row. Turn-stitch back again.
  •  9th Row. Knit two scarlet, and three grey, and three scarlet
  • alternately, leaving one scarlet at the end.
  • 10th Row. Turn-stitch back again.
  • 11th Row. Knit one scarlet, and three grey, and three
  • scarlet alternately, leaving two scarlet at the end.
  • 12th Row. Knit three grey and three scarlet, alternately
  • and so on. Observe that you keep your wool (which is
  • constantly passed across) always at the wrong side of
  • the knitting, or that side which does not resemble the
  • stitch of a knit stocking. Take care not to pull the
  • wool tight when passing it across.

When a sufficient length is knit, fasten off and sew up, and fill with wadding or wool, which is pushed down with a stick or long knitting pin, and then sewn up.

Three or more colours may be used, but it is rather troublesome to prevent the wools from entangling, on account of their crossing each other so frequently.

SWISS CAP.

This is a kind of woollen tie or frill, to keep the head and ears warm when in an open carriage, and is put on over the border of the bonnet cap, and ties under the chin.

Its length is about six nails and a half, and the depth when double, one nail and a half.

The colours generally chosen are white, blue, and scarlet.

Choose two very thick wooden pins, also some very fine lamb’s wool, and some thick sewing silk of the same colour.

Set on about sixty stitches or more (according to the length desired) on one pin with silk, and knit a plain row, then knit another plain row with wool, putting it three times round the needle every stitch instead of once.

Next row, knit exactly the same.

Next row, knit plain, passing the wool but once round the pin as usual.

Repeat the three rows twice more, and then finish off by knitting a plain row of silk.

Double the piece of knitting in half its depth, so as to form a kind of frill, and run in a ribbon along the third row of long stitches in and out through both the folds or frills, to keep them in place, which also serves as strings to keep the cap on the head by tying under the chin.

A LIGHT SCARF.

Set on 100 stitches, and knit either in one or two colours, seven nails of raised French stitch, or honeycomb-stitch, after which, knit a row plain, putting the wool six times round the pin at every stitch.

  • Next row, knit plain, taking care to keep the long stitches even.
  • Knit one row of honeycomb pattern.
  • Knit another plain row.
  • Repeat the row of long stitches, by again putting the wool six
  • times round the pin.
  • Again the plain row, as also the row of honeycomb pattern,
  • and the other plain row.

Continue this till the scarf is long enough to allow of your ending as you began, with seven nails of fancy stitch. A fringe should be added.

These scarfs are often made with the long stitches white, and all the rest coloured, and look very handsome.

AN IMPROVED SOCK.

Use coarse lamb’s wool and middle sized pins; cast on seventeen stitches of coloured wool, this makes the first row in reckoning.

At the end of the second row, make a stitch, which gives a better form to the heel than setting on eighteen at first.

At the end of the third row, add a stitch.

Add a stitch at the end of the fifth, seventh, ninth, eleventh, &c., until you have twenty-five loops on the pin.

Then with a third pin knit ten stitches only.

Continue knitting backwards and forwards the ten stitches only, until you have knit twenty rows.[3]

At the end of the twenty-first row, make fifteen stitches, so as to have twenty-five stitches again on the pin, and to make it correspond with the other side.

Finish this side of the shoe with as many rows as you knit on the opposite side, decreasing every other row by knitting the two first stitches together at the toe, until there are but seventeen left on the pin, and fasten off.

All this has been knit of red wool.

Then continue with the white wool for twenty-four rows, which will complete the sock, adding at the end of the two first sixth and seventh rows, one to enlarge the boot.

Sew up the shoe to the sock at the instep, and draw up the toe and sew it round the heel and up the leg. A bow may be added, if required, also leather soles.

[3] At the end of this twenty rows, take up ten stitches, and with white wool knit fourteen rows. Then take on to this middle pin, which has the white even upon it, nine stitches from each side (namely, from the top of the heel) of the red shoe, and knit two rows with coloured wool for the strap.

FLOWER STAND COVERS.

Take a tin can or jar, of the proper size for the flowers to be placed in, and make the knit cover as follows:—

Choose two middle sized steel pins, and rather fine wool of two colours, and begin as follows:—

Set on as many stitches as will measure to the depth of the flower stand, and knit six rows of one colour, letting the alternate rows be plain, and turn-stitch so as to make one side appear like knit stockings on the right side. The next six rows knit of the other colour, and altering the alternate rows of plain and turn-stitch, so as to throw the stocking-stitch inside. Continue thus ribbing the piece of work until you have knit sufficient to go round the base, when fasten off and sew up. Add a fringe at the top, and a circular piece of wire inside, both at top and bottom, is sometimes put to keep it in shape; though the jar generally is sufficient in itself when put inside. A leather or cloth bottom may be added.

KNIT PEN WIPER.

Set on your pin thirty stitches of black wool, and knit eight rows backwards and forwards for the border. The middle part is next begun in the embossed hexagon-stitch of red, or any other colour, still observing to continue the border, by knitting four plain stitches at the beginning and ending of each pin of the black wool.

End by knitting the eight plain rows of black wool as before, to complete the first enclosed square of the pen wiper, do not fasten off, but begin knitting another piece exactly to match the first, which when finished completes the pen wiper. Double it like a book and sew a bit of ribbon down the inside, under which may be passed bits of silk or rag to wipe the pens upon.