CHAPTER XII.
STRAW PLATTING.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.
The precise period when the Dunstable bonnets, made of straw plat, were invented, is unknown, but is supposed to be probably a century and a half old.
The straw platting districts now, include Bedfordshire, Buckinghamshire, Hertfordshire, and Essex. In many other counties the platting is partially followed, and it may be well adopted in other districts for the supply of the neighbourhood.
There are markets for the sale of the large bundles of long straw, both rough and properly stripped; also the short straws, the straw plats, and the bonnets throughout the straw plat districts. The best bonnet market is at St. Alban’s, but there are others at Luton, Dunstable, and Braintree. These markets are held only in the morning, from about eight to ten o’clock, when the plat buyers always attend.
Experiments on the different straws of corn and grass, and on the precise times when they should be cut, whether before or at the time when the grass and corn are ripe, might lead to some discoveries which would add to the durability and beauty of the bonnets.
There are few manufactories in the kingdom in which so little capital is wanted, or the knowledge of the art so soon acquired as in that of straw platting; it is, therefore, particularly suitable for school children, from six years old and upwards, as also for the sons of cottagers to employ their spare moments.
The expense of a perfect apparatus for bleaching, rolling, pressing upon, &c., amounts to about three guineas, which will employ any number of persons from one to one hundred; but, by contriving with materials at hand, a guinea alone would almost provide those articles not to be procured at home.
The following are the articles required for platting, and making up the plats into articles for sale:—
| £. | s. | d. | |
| Box for bleaching the straw and bonnets | 0 | 18 | 0 |
| Mill for rolling and glazing the plat | 0 | 18 | 0 |
| Bonnet stand for ironing and shaping the bonnet upon | 0 | 11 | 0 |
| Box iron with two or three heaters | 0 | 4 | 6 |
| Tin kettle for dyeing | 0 | 5 | 0 |
| Tailor’s measure | 0 | 0 | 6 |
| Earthenware jar for the brimstone | 0 | 0 | 4 |
| Cloths for ironing | 0 | 0 | 6 |
| Large iron basin tinned | 0 | 1 | 6 |
| Straw splitting machines, two at 4½d. | 0 | 0 | 9 |
| Stone brimstone, bone-dust, needles, &c., about | 0 | 3 | 0 |
| £. | 3 | 3 | 0 |
THE BLEACHING, OR
FUMIGATION BOX.
PLATE 24. FIG. 50.
If required to be large enough to hold several bonnets, two stories high and two rows in width, it should be made about three feet long, two feet wide, and two feet deep.
The earthen jar is put in the middle of it, in which the brimstone is put and set fire to when articles are to be bleached, as there is danger of some of the straw falling into the jar and catching fire; it is advisable to have four stout legs or wires about a foot high, fastened round the jar in the centre of the box, and, by carrying a wire round from peg to peg at the top, and the second a little lower, a kind of double railing would be formed round the jar as a protection to the straw (see Fig. 50). The box should be made to shut down very close, for which purpose the lid should have a ledge to fall over the sides of the box, something similar to the lid of a band-box.
MILL FOR ROLLING THE PLAT.
PLATE 24. FIG. 49.
This is difficult to procure well made, and is essential to give the gloss and finish to the straw plat. It should be made of the strongest oak or box-wood, and of the following size, or larger:—
| Inches | |
| The upright sides, from A to B | 15½ |
| Ditto sloped down to (as from C to D) | 13½ |
| Width of these sides, from E to F | 1½ |
| Depth, or thickness, from F to G | 3½ |
| The two bars of wood, H and T, in width and depth, to be | 3½ |
| Distance between H and T | 11 |
| Circumference of each wheel, K L | 7 |
| Length of screw, not including handle | 4½ |
| Length of handle | 3½ |
| Depth of bar across, R | ½ |
| Length of handle, L | 3 |
| Height of upright, M | 5½ |
| Length of upper handle, O | 5 |
The use of the screw is to press the upper wheel nearer upon the lower one, if wanted, as the thickness of the various plats vary materially, and what will press one kind, will not be close enough to do another properly.
The plat being put in at one end, is worked through between the wheel, till the whole is drawn through. The wheels should always be as near together as will just admit the straw without spoiling, as the greater the pressure the finer the gloss. It is a question whether glass rollers would not produce a still higher finish. The holes are made entirely through the wood at the end, A B, to admit of screws, by which the whole mill is fastened to the side of some chest, or press, or door. Care should be taken to place it at the proper height from the floor, for convenience. From three feet and a half to four feet and a half is about the best distance. It should also be placed in a situation where the handle may have free play when turned.
THE BONNET STAND.
PLATE 24. FIG. 48.
This is made of strong deal or oak, and is formed at one end smaller and differently to the other. The one end is circular, and so formed as to fit into the crown of a bonnet or hat; the other end is shaped like the poke, or front. This wood is mounted on a kind of stand, at a convenient height, and is used for ironing the bonnets upon, after being wet with the stiffening.
BOX IRON.
PLATE 24. FIG. 52.
This is made much in the usual way, excepting that it should be particularly heavy, and have a large handle to enable the person, while ironing, to have a firm grasp.
THE TIN DYEING KETTLE.
This should be made as long as the longest bundle of straw, as also deep and narrow. To have a lid to fit tightly on, and a long handle to carry it about with greater ease. The following dimensions are very suitable:—
| Inches | |
| Length | 17 |
| Width | 5 |
| Depth | 6 |
The earthenware jar should be like a little painter’s pot.
The tailors’ measure is used for measuring round a person’s head, to work the crown of the bonnet by.
The ironing cloth is merely to lay between the iron and the bonnet; it might be of calico, or any other common material.
THE STRAW SPLITTER.
This is a useful little machine, for dividing or splitting the straws, and may be procured with almost any number of wires or divisions, from two up to seven or eight. The machine, which is nothing but crossed wires or divisions in iron, is set into a wooden handle, through which the straw is pressed, and thus divided into an equal number of splints or split straws. These machines cost from 2d. to 8d. each.
ON PREPARING STRAW.
In selecting the straw, great care should be taken as to the sort and the colour. Rye straw is considered the best for platting, but is more difficult to get than wheat, which is preferable to any other sort of common straw. As it should be picked carefully, it is advisable to go to the barn itself, or to send some experienced person thither, previous to the straw being thrashed. Soft good coloured straws should be chosen, as free from blight and spots as possible. The ears should be cut off with scissors (not pulled off), and then the straw is tied in bundles and removed. It is then prepared as follows:—
Cut off at the joint and pull off the outer or loose covering, which process is called shocking.
Each straw will generally cut into three lengths of different thicknesses and sizes. These lengths should be carefully sorted into bundles, taking care to put together not only those of the same thickness, but those also of the same length.
ON BLEACHING STRAW.
Take six quarts of water, and make a strong lather of soap; put in half an ounce of pearl ash, and half an ounce of sugar of lead, and make it quite hot. Wash the straws well in it, (keeping it still tied up in little bundles) after which, place the bundles in the fumigating box, which should be air tight, and shut it down close, after having previously lighted the stone brimstone, which should be broken into small pieces in the jar.
Observe carefully, when setting the bundles round the box, that they stand firmly, so as not to fall upon the lighted brimstone and catch fire.
These bundles should not be tied very tightly, but sufficiently loose to stand out a little, as in Fig. 51, Plate 24, to allow of the steam gaining free access to them.
They should remain shut up for twelve or eighteen hours, after which, the bundles should be opened one at a time, cleaned with a cloth, and then tied up again, ready for platting.
ON DYEING STRAW BLACK.
- One pound of logwood chips,
- Four quarts of water,
- A piece of copperas the size of a walnut,
- One pennyworth of verdigris.
Let the logwood remain in the water three hours, then boil it half an hour over a slow fire, put in the articles, whether straw, silk, or any thing else, let it boil half an hour, then take out the chips, and the straw, add the copperas and the verdigris, previously dissolved over a slow fire, then put in the straw again, boil it half an hour, let it stand to cool three hours, wash the straw in cold water, and dry it in the air, without putting it in the sun.
To stiffen it, steep gum arabic in small beer, wet the straw with it, and dry it as before.
ANOTHER BLACK DYE.
- Three quarts of water,
- Three quarts of urine,
- Three quarters of a pound of logwood,
- Half a pound of alum,
- Quarter of a pound of copperas,
- Three or four nut galls.
Boil the water, urine, logwood, alum, and nut galls together a quarter of an hour, then add the copperas and boil the whole half an hour, afterwards put in the straw, and let it boil six hours. Let the straw remain in the dye till quite cold, then take it out, spread it on a tray or board to dry in the air, turn it every day for a fortnight, then rub each straw with an old linen duster, tie the straw in bundles, and keep it in a damp place. It should be used up quickly, or else it will decay, without being stiffened.
DIRECTIONS FOR PLATTING.
Each platter should have a separate bundle of straws, and great care taken that the straws in the bundle are exactly alike, unblemished, and equal in quality, as no good platter would work a tough straw with a pliant one. These bundles should have a piece of paper or calico round them to keep them clean, and they are generally kept by school children under the arm to prevent their being mixed with a fellow platter’s straws.
Observe as follows:—
1st. Platters should use the second finger and thumb, instead of the forefinger, as this last is very useful in assisting to turn the splints, and thus facilitates the work.
2nd. The straws while being platted should be held with the long ends turned up above the hand, and not below towards the waist; this arrangement keeps the straws cleaner and they are less liable to be bent or broken.
3rd. The straws should be renewed before used too near the end, as the joining is more firm; also avoid if possible, renewing two straws at the same time as the plat will be weakened.
4th. Avoid wetting the straws unless absolutely necessary while platting, as water tends much to diminish the glossy appearance afterwards. In working double splints, there should be just sufficient moisture to make them stick together while being worked.
5th. Each platter should have a piece of board, about a quarter or half a yard long, and three or four inches wide, on which should be wound the plat worked, taking care to cut off the ends of the straw as the plat is worked along, previous to winding it on the roller, to keep it in nice order. These boards should be rounded at the sides, to keep the plat from cracking. Some use rollers, and this last is perhaps the better plan. The circumference of the rollers should be of some settled size, say half a yard, so as to enable the platter easily to ascertain by counting the turns of the plat wound round it, how many yards have been completed.
6th. When the number of yards required are finished, the plat is passed through a roller, as often as is necessary, till well flattened and glazed, when it is folded like a coil of ropes in an oblong shape, ready for making up. The coils should be kept perfectly dry and free from dust, until a sufficient number is made for use.
PLATS.
There are numerous kinds of plats of which the names vary so much in the different countries that it is needless to call them by their names, excepting those universally known by one term; they will therefore be simply distinguished by the number of straws employed in making them.
Plats are sometimes made with whole straws; sometimes with half straws; sometimes with a third or fourth or even seventh parts of straws, according to the quality required.
Another plat is made with double straws; that is laying two splints or part of a straw together with the polished parts outside.
Plats of whole coarse straws are applicable to mats, basket, matting, &c.
Plats with finer whole straws; are used for school children, servant’s, or ladies’ country bonnets, and are commonly called Dunstable.
The split single, or split double, are made of every quality and number, and vary in price, according to the labour.
Some bonnets are made of paper, of grass, of Tuscan plat, and even of rushes; also of whalebone, of chip, &c.
Plats made of coloured straw may be platted in various patterns, by varying the number or position of the one colour with the other.
The following names of plats, together with their prices per score, are those in general use.
| s. | d. | ||
| Whole Dunstable | 0 | 6 | |
| Fine whole Dunstable | 2 | 3 | |
| Patent Dunstable | 2 | 6 | |
| Luton Dunstable | 1 | 4 | |
| Devonshire plat of seven or eight | 0 | 0 | |
| Bedford Leghorn | 4 | 0 | |
| Mixture plats | 1s. 2d. to | 2 | 0 |
| Tuscan ends | 3 | 0 | |
| Rustic plats | 0 | 6 | |
| Fine seven plats | 0 | 0 | |
| Back-bone straw | 0 | 0 | |
| Double seven | 0 | 0 | |
| The eleven straw | 0 | 0 | |
| The double eleven | 0 | 0 | |
| The lustre, or shining, of seventeen straws | 0 | 0 | |
| The wave of twenty-two | |||
| (the straws appear as if worked one way) | 0 | 0 | |
| The diamond of twenty-three straws | 0 | 0 |
PLAT OF THREE.
Double one straw in two, letting the ends be unequal. Lay a second straw upright, between the two ends of the first; thus forming three ends, which must be held with the points upright, between the finger and thumb of the left hand. Put the right hand straw over the middle straw, flatten it with the finger and thumb.
Put the left hand straw over the middle, also flatten it. Continue thus all the way along, remembering when joining on a new straw, to let the ends all lie on the outer side.
Observe, in platting, that the straw be always entirely folded over, as you would in platting paper, and the edges kept even.
This may be platted with whole straws, or split ones.
ANOTHER PLAT OF THREE.
This is done with very fine split straws, and is similarly platted with the one above, excepting that the straw is not flattened on folding in the patterns, but simply a little twisted, so as to keep the polished edge uppermost. This is called pearl plat, and is used by bonnet makers to form ornamental bonnets.
PLAT OF FOUR.
Double two straws, so that all the ends shall be of unequal lengths, and plat as follows:—
- Put the right hand straw, over one, and under one;
- Put the left hand straw, under one;
- Again, the right hand straw over one, and under one, and so on.
ANGULAR PLAT OF FOUR.
- This is sometimes called the corner plat,
- Put the right hand straw, over one, and under one;
- Again, put the right hand straw, over two, and under the
- last straw, making it the left hand, or outside straw.
- Put the left hand straw, over one, and under one.
- Again, put the left hand straw, over two, and under the last
- straw, making it the right hand straw.
PLAT OF FIVE.
Double two straws, so that the ends shall be of unequal lengths, and add a fifth straw between the left hand, first and second.
- Put the right hand straw, over one, and under one;
- Put the left hand straw, over one, and under one;
- Repeat this all along.
PLAT OF SIX.
- Double three straws unequally, and begin.
- Put the right hand straw, over one, and under two;
- Put the left hand straw, over one, and under one.
PLAT OF SIX.
- Double three straws unequally, making six ends to plat with;
- Put the right hand first straw, over one, and under one;
- Put the left hand straw, over one, and under one;
- Repeat this.
PLAT OF SEVEN.
- Double your straws;
- Put the right hand first straw, over one, under one,
- and over one;
- Put the left hand straw, over one, under one, and over one.
ANOTHER PLAT OF SEVEN.
- Put the right hand straw, over one, and under two;
- Put the left hand straw, over one, and under two;
- Repeat this all along.
ANOTHER PLAT OF SEVEN.
- Put the right hand straw, over one, under one, and over one.
- Put the left hand straw, over one, under one, and over one.
- Repeat this.
PLAT OF EIGHT.
- Put the right hand straw, over one, and under two;
- Put the left hand straw, over two, and under two;
- Repeat this.
ANOTHER PLAT OF EIGHT.
- Put the right hand straw, over one, and under three;
- Put the left hand straw, over one, and under two;
- Repeat this.
ANOTHER PLAT OF EIGHT.
- Put the right hand straw, over one, under one, and over two;
- Put the left hand straw, under one, and over two;
- Repeat this.
PLAT OF NINE.
- Put the right hand straw, over one, under two, and over one;
- Put the left hand straw, over one, under two, and over one;
- Repeat this.
ANOTHER PLAT OF NINE.
- Put the right hand straw, over one, under one, over one, and under one;
- Put the left hand straw, over one, under one, over one, and under one;
- Repeat this.
ANOTHER PLAT OF NINE.
- Put the right hand straw, over one, under one, and over two;
- Put the left hand straw, over one, under one, and over two;
- Repeat this.
PLAT OF TEN.
- Put the right hand straw, over one, under two, and over two;
- Put the left hand straw, over one, under two, and over one;
- Repeat this.
ANOTHER PLAT OF TEN.
- Put the right hand straw, over one, under one, over one, and under two;
- Put the left hand straw, over one, under one, over one, and under one;
- Repeat this.
PLAT OF ELEVEN.
- Put the right hand straw, over one, under one, over one,
- under one, and over one;
- Put the left hand straw, over one, under one, over one,
- under one, and over one;
- Repeat this.
ANOTHER PLAT OF ELEVEN.
- Put the right hand straw, over three, under three;
- Put the left hand straw, over three, and under one;
- Continue thus all along.
ANOTHER PLAT OF ELEVEN.
- Put the right hand straw, over two, under two, and over two;
- Put the left hand straw, over two, and under one;
- Repeat this.
ANOTHER PLAT OF ELEVEN.
- Put the right hand straw, over one, under two, and over two;
- Put the left hand straw, over one, under two, and over two;
- Continue this.
PLAT OF TWELVE.
- Put the right hand straw, over one, under two, and over two;
- Put the left hand straw, over one, under two, over two, and under one;
- Continue this.
PLAT OF THIRTEEN.
- Put the right hand straw, over one, and under two, over two;
- Put the left hand straw, over one, under two, over two, and under one.
ANOTHER PLAT OF THIRTEEN.
- Put the right hand straw, over one, under one, over three, and under one;
- Put the left hand straw, over one, under one, over three, and under one;
- Repeat this.
ANOTHER PLAT OF THIRTEEN.
- Put the right hand straw, over one, under one, over one,
- under one, and over one;
- Put the left hand straw over one, under one, over one, under
- one, over one, under one, and over one.
- Repeat the same.
PLAT OF FOURTEEN.
- Put the right hand straw, over one, under two, over two,
- under two, and over one;
- Put the left hand straw, over one, under two, and over two.
PLAT OF FIFTEEN.
- Put the right hand straw, over one, under two, and over two;
- Put the left hand straw, over one, under two, and over two.
ANOTHER PLAT OF FIFTEEN.
- Put the right hand straw, over one, under one, over one,
- under one, over one, under one, and over one;
- Put the left hand straw, over one, under one, over one,
- under one, over one, under one, and over one.
PLAT OF SIXTEEN.
- Put the right hand straw, over one, under three, over three,
- and under one;
- Put the left hand straw, over two, under three, and over three;
- Continue this.
HOLLOW SPIRAL STRAW WORK.
This is used for ornamented bonnets, and when made with a great many straws forms a basket, into which may be put fruit, and other small light things.
Take any number of uneven straws, from five upwards, to fifteen or twenty-one.
If five are taken, tie them securely together in a knot, and spread out the straws, laying a pencil or other round thing upright upon the knot, and begin working, making each straw as it is folded over, lie across in a horizontal position.
- Lay one straw, across over two straws,
- Miss the next straw,
- Lay the next again across over two straws,
- Again miss the next straw,
- Repeat this continually until sufficient is made, and fasten off.
THE TUSCAN HAT, COMMONLY
CALLED LEGHORN BONNETS.
The manufacture of straw bonnets is a considerable employment in Tuscany. The platting is chiefly carried on in the neighbourhood of Florence, Pisa, and Sienna.
The straws used in working those flats, which is the term for large flat circular plats, is grown in barren and mountainous districts, and is produced from a kind of wheat, said to be like cape wheat, of which the grain is very small. This straw, though slender, has much consistency, and the upper part of the stalk being hollow is easily dried. It is pulled out of the earth before the grain begins to form. After being freed from the soil that adheres to the root, it is formed into small sheaves for winnowing. The part above the last joint of the stem is then plucked off, the ear remaining attached to it, this being done, it is bleached alternately by the dew and the sun-shine; rain is very injurious and destroys much of its proper colour. The lower parts of the straw are treated in the same manner, and employed in forming flats of an inferior quality. The upper parts, torn off just to the knot, are sorted according to their degrees of fineness. This stapling is made with much care, and usually affords straw of three different prices. A quantity of straw worthbut 4½ d. will, after undergoing this process, be sold for 4s. 7d.
The tress is formed sometimes of seven or nine straws, but generally of thirteen. For the latter number, tie them together at one end; then divide them, placing six straws on the left side, and seven on the right. The seventh or outermost on the right, is to be turned down by the finger and thumb of the right hand, and brought up under two straws, over two, and under two, thus seven straws will be placed on the left hand; then the finger and thumb of the left hand is to turn the seventh or outermost straw on the left side, and bring it up under two straws, over two, and under two, and seven straws will again be on the right hand, and so on alternately doubling and platting the outermost seventh straw from side to side until it becomes too short to cross over; then take another straw and put it under the short end at the point of the angle, and by another straw coming over and under the joined one from both sides of the angle, in the operation of platting, it will become fastened; the short ends always being left out underneath the plat. Continue until a piece of about twenty yards or more, is completed. As fast as it is worked, it is rolled on a cylinder of wood: when it is finished, the projecting ends and ears are cut off, it is then passed with force between the hand and a piece of wood, cut with a sharp edge to press and polish it. The tresses, when prepared, are used so that a complete hat shall be made of one piece; they are sewed together with raw silk; the diameter the of various kinds of hat is in general the same; the only difference being in the degree of fineness, and consequently the number of turns which the plat has to make, varies.
These hats have from twenty to eighty such turns, the number regulating the price from 9s. to £20.
The Tuscan plat, made from Italian straw, and Tuscan bonnets, have since become a considerable manufacture in this country.
ENGLISH IMITATION
LEGHORN FLAT.
A kind of grass has been discovered in America, England, and in Ireland, which, upon repeated trials, has been found to answer as well, and is broke equally fine as the Tuscan straw. It is called the crested dog’s tail, and grows on barren poor soils. Its flower stalks are so remarkably harsh and tough that cattle will not touch them, and they remain all the winter in the fields useless. They are called, in Irish, trawnyeens; hence the Irish saying, “When a thing is useless, it is not worth a trawnyeen.” This has been dried and platted, and made up by the Irish, and it said likely to become a productive manufacture.
ARTICLES MADE UP
OF STRAW PLAT.
- Bonnets of all descriptions and sizes.
- Boy’s straw hats.
- Boy’s straw caps.
- Baskets and reticules.
- Mats.
- Basses.
- Matting.
BONNETS.
In making these up, begin by preparing the plat for the crown by pulling out the edge, as the outer circle must be larger than the inner one. Sew the plat, making long stitches on the wrong side, and laying one plat about half or more under the preceding one. No good directions for bonnet-making can be given in writing, it is therefore recommended to the inexperienced to take a lesson from a bonnet maker, or to pick an old one to pieces, as a kind of guide. When made up to shape or pattern, the bonnet, if it requires it, is bleached in the sulphur-box, after which, when quite dry, it is sponged all over, inside and outside, with the stiffening prepared according to the receipt mentioned below; when dry, another wash of stiffening is put on, and then, when quite dry, spread a wet piece of jaconet muslin over the bonnet, and press it with the box iron upon the bonnet block until it is quite in proper shape. This pressing is very hard work, and requires much strength and weight. The bonnet is then wired and papered.
RECEIPTS FOR STIFFENING.
The best stiffening is that made of buffalo’s hide or vellum, which may be procured in London and Liverpool, cut in shreds, and sold at 8d. a pound. Others use bone-dust, ivory shavings, also isinglass for best, and white glue for common bonnets.
VELLUM STIFFENING.
Boil a quarter of a pound of vellum shavings in two quarts of soft water for six or seven hours, filling it up occasionally until quite glutinous, then let it stand a few minutes to settle, pour it out into a basin, and it will become a thick jelly. A second two quarts of water may be added to the sediment left in the pot, and after a second boiling, will form a second quantity of almost as strong a jelly.
When used, melt up a quart of the jelly, and add a sufficient quantity of oxalic acid to make it white in the degree desired, a table spoonful to a quart is a very good average measure for good bonnets, more is required for the very best, and less for servants and school girls, &c. This acid, if too strong, turns the straws a pink colour.
Observe, that oxalic acid is a most dangerous poison, and should be kept locked up in a safe place.
BONE-DUST STIFFENING.
Put half a pint of bone-dust to half a pint of water, and boil it eight hours; then strain it through a thick earn strainer into a basin, let it stand about five minutes, and pour it very carefully into another vessel, as there will be a sediment at the bottom. Put the stiffening on the straw articles with a clean brush, making them quite wet. Hold the bonnets before the fire a few minutes, pulling them into shape, and afterwards hang them to dry for six hours, then with a sponge damp them with warm water, and spread over them a fine cloth or handkerchief, and press them well with a box iron. Take off the cloth, gloss the bonnets, then wire and paper the crown.
N.B. The white bonnets should have a little sugar of lead put in the stiffening, and they should be steamed in the brimstone a second time, after being made up, previous to being stiffened.
ON CLEANING BONNETS.
Take out the wires, and wash the bonnet with common brown soap and water. Bleach them with stone brimstone; a bit the size of a walnut is sufficient for twelve bonnets, dry, and mend them; if required, stiffen them according to the receipt and press them.
ON TURNING BONNETS.
The bonnet is picked to pieces, and the plat turned, so that which was inside is then outwards, the bonnet should be cleaned well before being unpicked.
HATS.
Men’s and boy’s hats are easily made of straw, and the brims may be narrow or broad, at pleasure; baby’s straw hats are generally looped up with a plat loop.
Boy’s caps may be made of straw also, and are very serviceable.
MATS.
These are made of plats also, and may be made round or oblong for the table, as also for door mats. The latter requires a very wide plat.
Very pretty mats may be made of fine straws or rushes, about twenty taken in the hand at once, and connected together in a similar manner as the straw work of a bee-hive, either with very fine split osiers, which are passed through the straws easily when a hole is bored through with a kind of packing needle threaded with twine; braid answers very well indeed. The stitches should be very regular, and if for a circle or oval, observe to let the stitches radiate from the centre. Baskets look very pretty when made in this way, also church basses, which also are made of straw plats, and sewed over sackcloth after it is made to the shape of a cushion, and properly filled with bits of straw, bran, or flock, &c.
BOBBIN MAKING.
PLATE 24. FIG. 53, 54, 55.
This is done on a cushion, and with bobbin handles similar to those used by lace makers; Fig. 54, a cushion stuffed with wool is firmer than one of feathers, it is rather heavier, but that is not an objection. The cost of the bobbin handles is four-pence each, and there are nine required. It is preferable to have the handles made with two necks, any turner accustomed to make lace bobbins will know what is meant.
The best cotton for use is knitting cotton, and for very broad bobbin, a double thread of middling fineness is preferable to a single coarse one. It is done as follows:—
Let the nine threads be tied together, and fastened upon the top of the cushion with a stout pin; Fig. 53, then separate them so that five fall on one side, and four on the other. Fig. 55.
The object is to pass No. 9 over Nos. 7 and 8, and under Nos. 5 and 6; therefore, take up the two latter bobbins in the right hand, No. 5 between the thumb and first finger, and No. 6 between the first and second fingers; the thumb and first finger may, notwithstanding, grasp No. 9, and throw it over Nos. 7 and 8 to the left hand side of the cushion, next to No. 4. Lay Nos. 5 and 6 in the places from which they were raised, and perform the same process described with the left hand, taking up Nos. 9 and 4, and passing No. 1 across to the right hand. The bobbin, as it is made, may be wound several times round a card at the top of the cushion, and then passed under a large pin. Fasten on a single thread, by tying the two ends together, and looping it round a pin stuck just above where you are at work, it is thus perfectly strong, and a knot does not occur in the bobbin.
The outer thread to the left hand, over two, and under two; the same with the right hand.