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Their Silver Wedding Journey — Volume 3

Chapter 30: LXXV.
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About This Book

An American married couple travels through southern Germany, recording encounters with local architecture, social rituals, and historic sites. Conversations with a young railway architect and episodes at a princely hotel highlight contrasts between Gothic and classical styles and expose civic indifference and ceremonial militarism. Strolls through town squares, visits to a Schloss and a bookseller, and a delayed custodian introduce both practical travel anecdotes and researched regional history, including violent episodes from a past margrave. Observational humor and cultural reflection combine with detailed atmospheric description to blend personal experience and local lore into a compact travelogue.

"Burnamy?" prompted March, rather breathlessly.

"Yes. Couldn't he take hold of it? I rather liked him. He's smart, isn't he?"

"Very," said March. "But I don't know where he is. I don't know that he would go into the country—. But he might, if—"

They entered provisionally into the case, and for argument's sake supposed that Burnamy would take hold of the major's paper if he could be got at. It really looked to March like a good chance for him, on Eltwin's showing; but he was not confident of Burnamy's turning up very soon, and he gave the major a pretty clear notion why, by entering into the young fellow's history for the last three months.

"Isn't it the very irony of fate?" he said to his wife when he found her in their room with a cup of the same mud he had been drinking, and reported the facts to her.

"Irony?" she said, with all the excitement he could have imagined or desired. "Nothing of the kind. It's a leading, if ever there was one. It will be the easiest thing in the world to find Burnamy. And out there she can sit on her steps!"

He slowly groped his way to her meaning, through the hypothesis of Burnamy's reconciliation and marriage with Agatha Triscoe, and their settlement in Major Eltwin's town under social conditions that implied a habit of spending the summer evenings on their front porch. While he was doing this she showered him with questions and conjectures and requisitions in which nothing but the impossibility of going ashore saved him from the instant devotion of all his energies to a world-wide, inquiry into Burnamy's whereabouts.

The next morning he was up before Major Eltwin got out, and found the second-cabin passengers free of the first-cabin promenade at an hour when their superiors were not using it. As he watched these inferiors, decent-looking, well-clad men and women, enjoying their privilege with a furtive air, and with stolen glances at him, he asked himself in what sort he was their superior, till the inquiry grew painful. Then he rose from his chair, and made his way to the place where the material barrier between them was lifted, and interested himself in a few of them who seemed too proud to avail themselves of his society on the terms made. A figure seized his attention with a sudden fascination of conjecture and rejection: the figure of a tall young man who came out on the promenade and without looking round, walked swiftly away to the bow of the ship, and stood there, looking down at the water in an attitude which was bewilderingly familiar. His movement, his posture, his dress, even, was that of Burnamy, and March, after a first flush of pleasure, felt a sickening repulsion in the notion of his presence. It would have been such a cheap performance on the part of life, which has all sorts of chances at command, and need not descend to the poor tricks of second-rate fiction; and he accused Burnamy of a complicity in the bad taste of the affair, though he realized, when he reflected, that if it were really Burnamy he must have sailed in as much unconsciousness of the Triscoes as he himself had done. He had probably got out of money and had hurried home while he had still enough to pay the second-cabin fare on the first boat back. Clearly he was not to blame, but life was to blame for such a shabby device; and March felt this so keenly that he wished to turn from the situation, and have nothing to do with it. He kept moving toward him, drawn by the fatal attraction, and at a few paces' distance the young man whirled about and showed him the face of a stranger.

March made some witless remark on the rapid course of the ship as it cut its way through the water of the bow; the stranger answered with a strong Lancashire accent; and in the talk which followed, he said he was going out to see the cotton-mills at Fall River and New Bedford, and he seemed hopeful of some advice or information from March; then he said he must go and try to get his Missus out; March understood him to mean his wife, and he hurried down to his own, to whom he related his hair-breadth escape from Burnamy.

"I don't call it an escape at all!" she declared. "I call it the greatest possible misfortune. If it had been Burnamy we could have brought them together at once, just when she has seen so clearly that she was in the wrong, and is feeling all broken up. There wouldn't have been any difficulty about his being in the second-cabin. We could have contrived to have them meet somehow. If the worst came to the worst you could have lent him money to pay the difference, and got him into the first-cabin."

"I could have taken that six-hundred-dollar room for him," said March, "and then he could have eaten with the swells."

She answered that now he was teasing; that he was fundamentally incapable of taking anything seriously; and in the end he retired before the stewardess bringing her first coffee, with a well-merited feeling that if it had not been for his triviality the young Lancashireman would really have been Burnamy.

LXXV.

Except for the first day and night out from Queenstown, when the ship rolled and pitched with straining and squeaking noises, and a thumping of the lifted screws, there was no rough weather, and at last the ocean was livid and oily, with a long swell, on which she swayed with no perceptible motion save from her machinery.

Most of the seamanship seemed to be done after dark, or in those early hours when March found the stewards cleaning the stairs, and the sailors scouring the promenades. He made little acquaintance with his fellow-passengers. One morning he almost spoke with an old Quaker lady whom he joined in looking at the Niagara flood which poured from the churning screws; but he did not quite get the words out. On the contrary he talked freely with an American who, bred horses on a farm near Boulogne, and was going home to the Horse Show; he had been thirty-five years out of the country, but he had preserved his Yankee accent in all its purity, and was the most typical-looking American on board. Now and then March walked up and down with a blond Mexican whom he found of the usual well-ordered Latin intelligence, but rather flavorless; at times he sat beside a nice Jew, who talked agreeably, but only about business; and he philosophized the race as so tiresome often because it seemed so often without philosophy. He made desperate attempts at times to interest himself in the pool-selling in the smoking-room where the betting on the ship's wonderful run was continual.

He thought that people talked less and less as they drew nearer home; but on the last day out there was a sudden expansion, and some whom he had not spoken with voluntarily addressed him. The sweet, soft air was like midsummer the water rippled gently, without a swell, blue under the clear sky, and the ship left a wide track that was silver in the sun. There were more sail; the first and second class baggage was got up and piled along the steerage deck.

Some people dressed a little more than usual for the last dinner which was earlier than usual, so as to be out of the way against the arrival which had been variously predicted at from five to seven-thirty. An indescribable nervousness culminated with the appearance of the customs officers on board, who spread their papers on cleared spaces of the dining-tables, and summoned the passengers to declare that they had nothing to declare, as a preliminary to being searched like thieves at the dock.

This ceremony proceeded while the Cupania made her way up the Narrows, and into the North River, where the flare of lights from the crazy steeps and cliffs of architecture on the New York shore seemed a persistence of the last Fourth of July pyrotechnics. March blushed for the grotesque splendor of the spectacle, and was confounded to find some Englishmen admiring it, till he remembered that aesthetics were not the strong point of our race. His wife sat hand in hand with Miss Triscoe, and from time to time made him count the pieces of small baggage in the keeping of their steward; while General Triscoe held aloof in a sarcastic calm.

The steamer groped into her dock; the gangways were lifted to her side; the passengers fumbled and stumbled down their incline, and at the bottom the Marches found themselves respectively in the arms of their son and daughter. They all began talking at once, and ignoring and trying to remember the Triscoes to whom the young Marches were presented. Bella did her best to be polite to Agatha, and Tom offered to get an inspector for the general at the same time as for his father. Then March, remorsefully remembered the Eltwins, and looked about for them, so that his son might get them an inspector too. He found the major already in the hands of an inspector, who was passing all his pieces after carelessly looking into one: the official who received the declarations on board had noted a Grand Army button like his own in the major's lapel, and had marked his fellow-veteran's paper with the mystic sign which procures for the bearer the honor of being promptly treated as a smuggler, while the less favored have to wait longer for this indignity at the hands of their government. When March's own inspector came he was as civil and lenient as our hateful law allows; when he had finished March tried to put a bank-note in his hand, and was brought to a just shame by his refusal of it. The bed-room steward keeping guard over the baggage helped put-it together after the search, and protested that March had feed him so handsomely that he would stay there with it as long as they wished. This partly restored March's self-respect, and he could share in General Triscoe's indignation with the Treasury ruling which obliged him to pay duty on his own purchases in excess of the hundred-dollar limit, though his daughter had brought nothing, and they jointly came far within the limit for two.

He found that the Triscoes were going to a quiet old hotel on the way to Stuyvesant Square, quite in his own neighborhood, and he quickly arranged for all the ladies and the general to drive together while he was to follow with his son on foot and by car. They got away from the scene of the customs' havoc while the steamer shed, with its vast darkness dimly lit by its many lamps, still showed like a battle-field where the inspectors groped among the scattered baggage like details from the victorious army searching for the wounded. His son clapped him on the shoulder when he suggested this notion, and said he was the same old father; and they got home as gayly together as the dispiriting influences of the New York ugliness would permit. It was still in those good and decent times, now so remote, when the city got something for the money paid out to keep its streets clean, and those they passed through were not foul but merely mean.

The ignoble effect culminated when they came into Broadway, and found its sidewalks, at an hour when those of any European metropolis would have been brilliant with life, as unpeopled as those of a minor country town, while long processions of cable-cars carted heaps of men and women up and down the thoroughfare amidst the deformities of the architecture.

The next morning the March family breakfasted late after an evening prolonged beyond midnight in spite of half-hourly agreements that now they must really all go to bed. The children had both to recognize again and again how well their parents were looking; Tom had to tell his father about the condition of 'Every Other Week'; Bella had to explain to her mother how sorry her husband was that he could not come on to meet them with her, but was coming a week later to take her home, and then she would know the reason why they could not all, go back to Chicago with him: it was just the place for her father to live, for everybody to live. At breakfast she renewed the reasoning with which she had maintained her position the night before; the travellers entered into a full expression of their joy at being home again; March asked what had become of that stray parrot which they had left in the tree-top the morning they started; and Mrs. March declared that this was the last Silver Wedding Journey she ever wished to take, and tried to convince them all that she had been on the verge of nervous collapse when she reached the ship. They sat at table till she discovered that it was very nearly eleven o'clock, and said it was disgraceful.

Before they rose, there was a ring at the door, and a card was brought in to Tom. He glanced at it, and said to his father, "Oh, yes! This man has been haunting the office for the last three days. He's got to leave to-day, and as it seemed to be rather a case of life and death with him, I said he'd probably find you here this morning. But if you don't want to see him, I can put him off till afternoon, I suppose."

He tossed the card to his father, who looked at it quietly, and then gave it to his wife. "Perhaps I'd as well see him?"

"See him!" she returned in accents in which all the intensity of her soul was centred. By an effort of self-control which no words can convey a just sense of she remained with her children, while her husband with a laugh more teasing than can be imagined went into the drawing-room to meet Burnamy.

The poor fellow was in an effect of belated summer as to clothes, and he looked not merely haggard but shabby. He made an effort for dignity as well as gayety, however, in stating himself to March, with many apologies for his persistency. But, he said, he was on his way West, and he was anxious to know whether there was any chance of his 'Kasper Hauler' paper being taken if he finished it up. March would have been a far harder-hearted editor than he was, if he could have discouraged the suppliant before him. He said he would take the Kasper Hauler paper and add a band of music to the usual rate of ten dollars a thousand words. Then Burnamy's dignity gave way, if not his gayety; he began to laugh, and suddenly he broke down and confessed that he had come home in the steerage; and was at his last cent, beyond his fare to Chicago. His straw hat looked like a withered leaf in the light of his sad facts; his thin overcoat affected March's imagination as something like the diaphanous cast shell of a locust, hopelessly resumed for comfort at the approach of autumn. He made Burnamy sit down, after he had once risen, and he told him of Major Eltwin's wish to see him; and he promised to go round with him to the major's hotel before the Eltwins left town that afternoon.

While he prolonged the interview in this way, Mrs. March was kept from breaking in upon them only by the psychical experiment which she was making with the help and sympathy of her daughter at the window of the dining-room which looked up Sixteenth Street. At the first hint she gave of the emotional situation which Burnamy was a main part of, her son; with the brutal contempt of young men for other young men's love affairs, said he must go to the office; he bade his mother tell his father there was no need of his coming down that day, and he left the two women together. This gave the mother a chance to develop the whole fact to the daughter with telegrammic rapidity and brevity, and then to enrich the first-outline with innumerable details, while they both remained at the window, and Mrs. March said at two-minutely intervals, with no sense of iteration for either of them, "I told her to come in the morning, if she felt like it, and I know she will. But if she doesn't, I shall say there is nothing in fate, or Providence either. At any rate I'm going to stay here and keep longing for her, and we'll see whether there's anything in that silly theory of your father's. I don't believe there is," she said, to be on the safe side.

Even when she saw Agatha Triscoe enter the park gate on Rutherford Place, she saved herself from disappointment by declaring that she was not coming across to their house. As the girl persisted in coming and coming, and at last came so near that she caught sight of Mrs. March at the window and nodded, the mother turned ungratefully upon her daughter, and drove her away to her own room, so that no society detail should hinder the divine chance. She went to the door herself when Agatha rang, and then she was going to open the way into the parlor where March was still closeted with Burnamy, and pretend that she had not known they were there. But a soberer second thought than this prevailed, and she told the girl who it was that was within and explained the accident of his presence. "I think," she said nobly, "that you ought to have the chance of going away if you don't wish to meet him."

The girl, with that heroic precipitation which Mrs. March had noted in her from the first with regard to what she wanted to do, when Burnamy was in question, answered, "But I do wish to meet him, Mrs. March."

While they stood looking at each other, March came out to ask his wife if she would see Burnamy, and she permitted herself so much stratagem as to substitute Agatha, after catching her husband aside and subduing his proposed greeting of the girl to a hasty handshake.

Half an hour later she thought it time to join the young people, urged largely by the frantic interest of her daughter. But she returned from the half-open door without entering. "I couldn't bring myself to break in on the poor things. They are standing at the window together looking over at St. George's."

Bella silently clasped her hands. March gave cynical laugh, and said, "Well we are in for it, my dear." Then he added, "I hope they'll take us with them on their Silver Wedding Journey."

PG EDITOR'S BOOKMARKS:

    Declare that they had nothing to declare
    Despair which any perfection inspires
    Disingenuous, hypocritical passion of love
    Fundamentally incapable of taking anything seriously
    Held aloof in a sarcastic calm
    Illusions: no marriage can be perfect without them
    Married life: we expect too much of each other
    Not do to be perfectly frank with one's own country
    Offence which any difference of taste was apt to give him
    Passionate desire for excess in a bad thing
    Puddles of the paths were drying up with the haste
    Race seemed so often without philosophy
    Self-sacrifice which could be had, as it were, at a bargain
    She always came to his defence when he accused himself

PG EDITORS BOOKMARKS FOR THE COMPLETE TRILOGY:

    Affected absence of mind
    Affectional habit
    All the loveliness that exists outside of you, dearest is little
    All luckiest or the unluckiest, the healthiest or the sickest
    Americans are hungrier for royalty than anybody else
    Amusing world, if you do not refuse to be amused
    Anticipative homesickness
    Anticipative reprisal
    Any sort of stuff was good enough to make a preacher out of
    Appearance made him doubt their ability to pay so much
    Artists never do anything like other people
    As much of his story as he meant to tell without prompting
    At heart every man is a smuggler
    Bad wars, or what are comically called good wars
    Ballast of her instinctive despondency
    Be good, sweet man, and let who will be clever
    Beautiful with the radiance of loving and being loved
    Bewildering labyrinth of error
    Biggest place is always the kindest as well as the cruelest
    Brag of his wife, as a good husband always does
    Brown-stone fronts
    But when we make that money here, no one loses it
    Buttoned about him as if it concealed a bad conscience
    Calm of those who have logic on their side
    Civilly protested and consented
    Clinging persistence of such natures
    Coldly and inaccessibly vigilant
    Collective silence which passes for sociality
    Comfort of the critical attitude
    Conscience weakens to the need that isn't
    Considerable comfort in holding him accountable
    Courage hadn't been put to the test
    Courtship
    Deadly summer day
    Death is peace and pardon
    Death is an exile that no remorse and no love can reach
    Decided not to let the facts betray themselves by chance
    Declare that they had nothing to declare
    Despair which any perfection inspires
    Did not idealize him, but in the highest effect she realized him
    Dinner unites the idea of pleasure and duty
    Disingenuous, hypocritical passion of love
    Dividend: It's a chicken before it's hatched
    Does any one deserve happiness
    Does anything from without change us?
    Dog that had plainly made up his mind to go mad
    Effort to get on common ground with an inferior
    Europe, where society has them, as it were, in a translation
    Evil which will not let a man forgive his victim
    Explained perhaps too fully
    Extract what consolation lurks in the irreparable
    Family buryin' grounds
    Favorite stock of his go up and go down under the betting
    Feeblest-minded are sure to lead the talk
    Feeling rather ashamed,—for he had laughed too
    Feeling of contempt for his unambitious destination
    Flavors not very sharply distinguished from one another
    Fundamentally incapable of taking anything seriously
    Futility of travel
    Gayety, which lasted beyond any apparent reason for it
    Glad; which considering, they ceased to be
    Got their laugh out of too many things in life
    Guilty rapture of a deliberate dereliction
    Had learned not to censure the irretrievable
    Had no opinions that he was not ready to hold in abeyance
    Handsome pittance
    Happiness is so unreasonable
    Happiness built upon and hedged about with misery
    He expected to do the wrong thing when left to his own devices
    He buys my poverty and not my will
    Headache darkens the universe while it lasts
    Heart that forgives but does not forget
    Held aloof in a sarcastic calm
    Helplessness begets a sense of irresponsibility
    Helplessness accounts for many heroic facts in the world
    Hemmed round with this eternal darkness of death
    Homage which those who have not pay to those who have
    Honest selfishness
    Hopeful recklessness
    How much can a man honestly earn without wronging or oppressing
    Humanity may at last prevail over nationality
    Hurry up and git well—or something
    Hypothetical difficulty
    I cannot endure this—this hopefulness of yours
    I want to be sorry upon the easiest possible terms
    I supposed I had the pleasure of my wife's acquaintance
    I'm not afraid—I'm awfully demoralized
    If you dread harm enough it is less likely to happen
    Ignorant of her ignorance
    Illusions: no marriage can be perfect without them
    Impertinent prophecies of their enjoying it so much
    Indispensable
    Indulge safely in the pleasures of autobiography
    Intrepid fancy that they had confronted fate
    It had come as all such calamities come, from nothing
    It must be your despair that helps you to bear up
    It don't do any good to look at its drawbacks all the time
    It 's the same as a promise, your not saying you wouldn't
    Jesting mood in the face of all embarrassments
    Justice must be paid for at every step in fees and costs
    Less intrusive than if he had not been there
    Less certain of everything that I used to be sure of
    Life was like the life at a sea-side hotel, but more monotonous
    Life of the ship, like the life of the sea: a sodden monotony
    Life has taught him to truckle and trick
    Long life of holidays which is happy marriage
    Love of justice hurry them into sympathy with violence
    Made money and do not yet know that money has made them
    Madness of sight-seeing, which spoils travel
    Man's willingness to abide in the present
    Married life: we expect too much of each other
    Married the whole mystifying world of womankind
    Married for no other purpose than to avoid being an old maid
    Marry for love two or three times
    Monologue to which the wives of absent-minded men resign
    Muddy draught which impudently affected to be coffee
    Nervous woes of comfortable people
    Never-blooming shrub
    Never could have an emotion without desiring to analyze it
    Night so bad that it was worse than no night at all
    No man deserves to sufer at the hands of another
    No longer the gross appetite for novelty
    No right to burden our friends with our decisions
    Not do to be perfectly frank with one's own country
    Nothing so apt to end in mutual dislike,—except gratitude
    Nothing so sad to her as a bride, unless it's a young mother
    Novelists, who really have the charge of people's thinking
    Oblivion of sleep
    Offence which any difference of taste was apt to give him
    Only so much clothing as the law compelled
    Only one of them was to be desperate at a time
    Our age caricatures our youth
    Parkman
    Passionate desire for excess in a bad thing
    Patience with mediocrity putting on the style of genius
    Patronizing spirit of travellers in a foreign country
    People that have convictions are difficult
    Person talks about taking lessons, as if they could learn it
    Poverty as hopeless as any in the world
    Prices fixed by his remorse
    Puddles of the paths were drying up with the haste
    Race seemed so often without philosophy
    Recipes for dishes and diseases
    Reckless and culpable optimism
    Reconciliation with death which nature brings to life at last
    Rejoice in everything that I haven't done
    Rejoice as much at a non-marriage as a marriage
    Repeated the nothings they had said already
    Respect for your mind, but she don't think you've got any sense
    Say when he is gone that the woman gets along better without him
    Seemed the last phase of a world presently to be destroyed
    Seeming interested in points necessarily indifferent to him
    Self-sufficiency, without its vulgarity
    Self-sacrifice which could be had, as it were, at a bargain
    Servant of those he loved
    She always came to his defence when he accused himself
    She cares for him: that she was so cold shows that
    She could bear his sympathy, but not its expression
    Shouldn't ca' fo' the disgrace of bein' poo'—its inconvenience
    Sigh with which ladies recognize one another's martyrdom
    So hard to give up doing anything we have meant to do
    So old a world and groping still
    Society: All its favors are really bargains
    Sorry he hadn't asked more; that's human nature
    Suffering under the drip-drip of his innocent egotism
    Superstition that having and shining is the chief good
    Superstition of the romances that love is once for all
    That isn't very old—or not so old as it used to be
    The knowledge of your helplessness in any circumstances
    There is little proportion about either pain or pleasure
    They were so near in age, though they were ten years apart
    They can only do harm by an expression of sympathy
    Timidity of the elder in the presence of the younger man
    To do whatever one likes is finally to do nothing that one likes
    Took the world as she found it, and made the best of it
    Tragical character of heat
    Travel, with all its annoyances and fatigues
    Tried to be homesick for them, but failed
    Turn to their children's opinion with deference
    Typical anything else, is pretty difficult to find
    Unfounded hope that sooner or later the weather would be fine
    Used to having his decisions reached without his knowledge
    Vexed by a sense of his own pitifulness
    Voice of the common imbecility and incoherence
    Voting-cattle whom they bought and sold
    Wages are the measure of necessity and not of merit
    We get too much into the hands of other people
    We don't seem so much our own property
    Weariness of buying
    What we can be if we must
    When you look it—live it
    Wilful sufferers
    Willingness to find poetry in things around them
    Wish we didn't always recognize the facts as we do
    Without realizing his cruelty, treated as a child
    Woman harnessed with a dog to a cart
    Wooded with the precise, severely disciplined German forests
    Work he was so fond of and so weary of
    Would sacrifice his best friend to a phrase