| Article—PRINTED ARMURE Reed 52/2/2 | ||||
| Disp. 5 | Width 18½ in. | |||
| STOCK AND DYE | ||||
| Warp— | Ital. Ex. Class. 12/14 | $5.00 | ||
| 2-Thread Organ. white bright | .60 | |||
| P.D. | .23 | |||
| .12 | ||||
| —— | ||||
| lbs. 2.62 | $5.95 | $15.59 | ||
| Warping—3984/1 at 3¢. | 1.20 | |||
| Twisting—1992/2 at 30¢. 300 meters | .20 | |||
| Filling—Ital. Tram. souple 13/14 | $4.50 | |||
| .30 | ||||
| white bright P.D. | .23 | |||
| .10 | ||||
| 1/5 end 96 picks | .07 | |||
| .17 | ||||
| —— | ||||
| lbs. 3.08 | $5.20 | 16.02 | ||
| Weaving | 8.00 | |||
| Picking | 1.00 | |||
| Finishing | 5.00 | |||
| Expenses | 8.00 | |||
| —— | ||||
| $55.01 | ||||
| Divide by 87½ | ||||
| Cost per yard = $0.6287 | ||||
| Article—SATIN STRIPED REPS Reed 60/62 | ||||
| Disp. 6 | Width 20¼ in. | |||
| STOCK AND DYE | ||||
| Warp— | Ital. Ex. Organ. 24/26 | $5.00 | ||
| black bright 22 oz. | .60 | |||
| .73 | ||||
| .21 | ||||
| —— | ||||
| lbs. 3.56 | $6.54 | $23.28 | ||
| Ital. Ex. Organ. 18/20 | $5.20 | |||
| .65 | ||||
| sky bright P.D. | .23 | |||
| .12 | ||||
| —— | ||||
| lbs. .83 | $6.20 | 5.15 | ||
| Cotton 100/2 | $1.00 | |||
| .12 | ||||
| .08 | ||||
| —— | ||||
| scarlet lbs. 1.37 | $1.20 | 1.64 | ||
| Warping—8316 at 4¢. | 3.32 | |||
| Twisting—7434 at 50¢. 300 meters | 1.24 | |||
| Filling—Jap. tram. No. 1 14/16 | $4.00 | |||
| .35 | ||||
| scarlet bright 16 oz. 1/3 ends | .45 | |||
| .15 | ||||
| 144 picks. lbs. 3.57 | .10 | |||
| —— | ||||
| $5.05 | 18.04 | |||
| Weaving | 12.00 | |||
| Picking | 1.00 | |||
| Finishing | 1.00 | |||
| —— | ||||
| $66.67 | ||||
| Expenses 15% | 10.00 | |||
| —— | ||||
| $76.67 | ||||
| Divide by 87½ | ||||
| Cost per yard = $0.8763 | ||||
| Article—MESSALINE BROCADE Reed 60/3 | ||||
| Disp. 7 | Width 23 in. | |||
| Warp—Jap. Ex. 13/15 | $4.50 | |||
| .60 | ||||
| 2-Thread navy bright 16 oz. | .45 | |||
| .15 | ||||
| —— | ||||
| lbs. 3.20 | $5.70 | $18.24 | ||
| Warping—4320 at 3¢. | 1.30 | |||
| Twisting—4260 at 30¢. 300 meters | .41 | |||
| Filling—Jap. Tram No. 1 13/15 | $4.00 | |||
| .35 | ||||
| emerald ex. bright dye 24 oz. | .95 | |||
| .25 | ||||
| 1/3 ends 100 picks | .15 | |||
| —— | ||||
| lbs. 2.50 | $5.70 | 14.25 | ||
| Weaving | 9.00 | |||
| Picking | 1.00 | |||
| Finishing | 1.00 | |||
| —— | ||||
| $45.20 | ||||
| Expenses 15% | 6.78 | |||
| —— | ||||
| $51.98 | ||||
| Divide by 87½ | ||||
| Cost per yard = $0.5941 | ||||
| Article—BENGALINE Reed 72/2 by 1 single; 1 double | ||||
| Disp. 8 | Width 36 in. | |||
| Warp—Jap. ex. 13/15 | $4.50 | |||
| .60 | ||||
| 2-Thread Organ. black bright | .64 | |||
| 20 oz. | .19 | |||
| —— | ||||
| lbs. 5.77 | $5.93 | $34.22 | ||
| Warping—7964 at 2¾¢. | 2.19 | |||
| Twisting—5296 at 30¢. 600 meters | .27 | |||
| Filling—56 picks by | $4.50 | |||
| 5 organ. 2 Cotton | .60 | |||
| .64 | ||||
| .19 | .45 | |||
| .12 | .10 | |||
| —— | ||||
| 40 picks Organ. as warp | $6.05 | .08 | 6.05 | |
| lbs. 1 | .07 | |||
| 16 picks black cotton 15/4 | —— | |||
| lbs. 22.50 | $ .70 | 15.75 | ||
| Weaving | 12.00 | |||
| Picking | 1.50 | |||
| Finishing | 3.00 | |||
| Expenses | 8.00 | |||
| —— | ||||
| $82.98 | ||||
| Divide by 91 | ||||
| Cost per yard = $0.9119 | ||||
| Article—CREPE DE CHINE (Taffeta weave) Reed 60/2/2 | ||||
| Disp. 9 | Width 40 in. 44½ in. in reed | |||
| Warp—Jap. Ex. Grege 20/22 | $4.50 | |||
| .05 | winding | |||
| —— | ||||
| 2% waste lbs. 5.60 | $4.55 | $25.48 | ||
| Warping—5340/2 at 2½¢. | 2.67 | |||
| Twisting—5340/2 at 25¢. 600 meters | .23 | |||
| Filling—Jap. No. 1 13/15 | ||||
| 4 ends hard twist 60 turns | $4.00 | |||
| 1.25 | throwing | |||
| 84 picks by 2 right, 2 left twist | 0.05 | quilling | ||
| —— | ||||
| 25% waste and shrinkage | $5.30 | |||
| lbs. 6.00 | 31.80 | |||
| Weaving | 9.00 | |||
| Finishing and dyeing | 5.00 | |||
| Picking | 1.00 | |||
| Expenses | 7.00 | |||
| —— | ||||
| $82.18 | ||||
| 5% discount | ||||
| 5% selling expense | ||||
| Divide by 90 | ||||
| Cost per yard = $0.9131 | ||||
| Article— | CREPE GEORGETTE Reed 50/2 | |||
| (Taffeta weave) by 1 right, 1 left twist | ||||
| Disp. 10 | Width 40 in. 47 in. in reed | |||
| Warp—Ital. Ex. Class 16/18 Raw | $5.20 | |||
| 1.60 | ||||
| —— | ||||
| 2-Thread hardtwist 75 turns | $6.80 | $36.72 | ||
| 30% shrinkage and waste lbs. 5.40 | ||||
| Warping—4640/1 30/2 4760 at 4¢. | 1.90 | |||
| Twisting—4700 at 50¢. 600 meters | .40 | |||
| Filling—Same silk as warp | ||||
| 100 picks by 2 right, 2 left twist | $5.20 | |||
| 1.60 | ||||
| .10 | ||||
| —— | ||||
| lbs. 5.00 | $6.90 | 34.50 | ||
| Weaving | 15.00 | |||
| Picking | 1.00 | |||
| Finishing and dyeing | 6.00 | |||
| —— | ||||
| $95.52 | ||||
| Expenses 12½% | 11.94 | |||
| —— | ||||
| $107.46 | ||||
| Divide by 87½ | ||||
| Cost per yard = $1.2281 | ||||
CALCULATION BLANK
ARTICLE REED
---------------------------------------------------------------------
DISP WIDTH
---------------------------------------------------------------------
WARP
---------------------------------------------------------------------
| | | | |
--------------------------------------------+---+---+---+---+--------
| | | | |
--------------------------------------------+---+---+---+---+--------
| | | | |
--------------------------------------------+---+---+---+---+--------
| | | | |
WARPING | | | | |
--------------------------------------------+---+---+---+---+--------
TWISTING | | | | |
--------------------------------------------+---+---+---+---+--------
FILLING | | | | |
--------------------------------------------+---+---+---+---+--------
| | | | |
--------------------------------------------+---+---+---+---+--------
| | | | |
WEAVING | | | | |
--------------------------------------------+---+---+---+---+--------
PICKING | | | | |
--------------------------------------------+---+---+---+---+--------
FINISHING | | | | |
--------------------------------------------+---+---+---+---+--------
EXPENSES | | | | |
--------------------------------------------+---+---+---+---+--------
| | | | |
| | | | |
--------------------------------------------+---+---+---+---+--------
PRICE PER YARD
INDEX
DRAWING-IN, 7
Straight Draws, 7
Skip Draws, 9
Point Draws, 9
Section Draws, 10
THE WEAVES AND THEIR CONSTRUCTION, 15
The Taffeta Weave, 17
Gros de Tours Weaves, 19
Serge Weaves, 20
Twill Weaves, 20
FILLING EFFECTS 21
Satin de Lyon, 21
Levantine, 21
Polonaise, 22
Serge grosse coté, 22
Serge Romaine, 23
Serge, 23
WARP EFFECTS, 25
Levantine, 25
EVENSIDED TWILLS, 26
Surah, 26
Croise, 26
POINTED TWILLS, 27
SATIN WEAVES, 32
Satine de Chine, 34
Satin Merveilleux, 34
7 Harness Satin, 35
Duchesse, 35
IRREGULAR SATINS, 39
Satin Ture, 39
Satin à la Reine, 40
DERIVATIVE WEAVES, 41
From the Taffeta, 41
From the Twills, 43
From the Satin Weave, 46
Cannele and Repp Weaves, 49
DOUBLE FACED FABRICS, 55
Warp Effects, 55
FILLING EFFECTS, 58
Pekins, 60
Bayadères, 63
Checks and Plaids, 65
DECOMPOSITION, 67
The Weave, 68
Length and Width of the Fabric, 68
The Stock and Its Dye, 69
Reed Calculation, 70
Drawing-in the Warp in Harness and Reed, 70
Warping Ticket, 71
Harness Arrangement, 71
Reduction of the Filling, 71
Calculation of Warp and Filling, 71
Finishing, 72
Calculation of Cost, 72
DISPOSITIONS, 75
JACQUARD WEAVES, 100
Box Loom Weaves Including Crêpes, 100
Manufacturing Costs, 101
CALCULATIONS, 103
Calculation Blank, 110
OTHER BOOKS
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THE AMERICAN SILK JOURNAL
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SERIVALOR
or the True Value of Raw Silk
By ADOLF ROSENZWEIG,
The great international authority on silk.
A practical and logical system of standardizing raw silks. Price, $4.25 postpaid.
DICTIONARY OF SILK TERMS
The most complete and authentic dictionary ever published on silk terms, from the raw silk to the finished broad and narrow silks, including weaves, styles, patterns, effects, colors, trade-marks, etc. Bound in cloth, 93 pages, price, $1.50 postpaid.
COLOR VALUE
By C.R. CLIFFORD.
A valuable book treating on color contrasts and harmonies. It will assist the manufacturer, styler, designer and retailer in the selection of colors. Colored plates and diagrams illustrating the fundamental principles of the subject, of inestimable value to either student or artisan. Price, $1.50 postpaid.
PERIOD FURNISHINGS
By C.R. CLIFFORD.
An encyclopedia of furnishings, decorations, furniture. Contains 2,731 illustrations, 266 pages, size 9¼ x 12; 112 fabric illustrations, covering all periods. Price, $6.00 postpaid.