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A handful of words use less common diacritics:
macron (“long” mark): Tronhūus, pandecāke
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All full-page plates link to larger versions.
Contents
Illustrations
Introduction
Three in Norway
Map
Notes and Errata
NORWAY
‘A man is at all times entitled, or even called upon by occasion, to speak, and write, and in all fit ways utter, what he has himself gone through, and known, and got the mastery of; and in truth, at bottom, there is nothing else that any man has a right to write of. For the rest, one principle, I think, in whatever farther you write, may be enough to guide you: that of standing rigorously by the fact, however naked it look. Fact is eternal; all fiction is very transitory in comparison. All men are interested in any man if he will speak the facts of his life for them; his authentic experience, which corresponds, as face with face, to that of all other sons of Adam.’
Thomas Carlyle
RUNNING THE RAPIDS BELOW GJENDESHEIM.
THREE IN NORWAY
BY
TWO OF THEM
WITH MAP AND FIFTY-NINE ILLUSTRATIONS ON WOOD
FROM SKETCHES BY THE AUTHORS
LONDON
LONGMANS, GREEN, AND CO.
1882
All rights reserved
LONDON: PRINTED BY
SPOTTISWOODE AND CO., NEW-STREET SQUARE
AND PARLIAMENT STREET
CONTENTS
| PAGE | ||
| Introduction | xi | |
| CHAPTER | ||
| I. | The Voyage | 1 |
| II. | Christiania | 6 |
| III. | By Rail and Lake | 14 |
| IV. | By Road | 21 |
| V. | The First Camp | 28 |
| VI. | Misery | 39 |
| VII. | Happiness | 45 |
| VIII. | Fly Sæter | 56 |
| IX. | Sikkildal | 62 |
| X. | Besse Sæter | 72 |
| XI. | Gjendin | 82 |
| XII. | The Camp | 89 |
| XIII. | Gjendesheim | 98 |
| XIV. | John | 105 |
| XV. | Back to Camp | 115 |
| XVI. | Trout | 120 |
| XVII. | Reindeer | 127 |
| XVIII. | Success at last | 137 |
| XIX. | Gjendeboden | 146 |
| XX. | A Formal Call | 153 |
| XXI. | Fishing | 167 |
| XXII. | Memurudalen | 180 |
| XXIII. | A Picnic | 191 |
| XXIV. | The Skipper’s Return | 200 |
| XXV. | The Gjende Fly | 210 |
| XXVI. | Disaster | 224 |
| XXVII. | A Change | 230 |
| XXVIII. | Rapid Running | 242 |
| XXIX. | Rus Vand | 257 |
| XXX. | Luck | 273 |
| XXXI. | Not lost, but gone before | 286 |
| XXXII. | A Last Stalk | 295 |
| XXXIII. | Homeward Bound | 303 |
| XXXIV. | Bjölstad | 315 |
| XXXV. | Down to Christiania | 327 |
| XXXVI. | Home again | 336 |
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
PLATES
| PAGE | ||
| Running the Rapids below Gjendesheim | Frontispiece | |
| On the Track near Sikkildals Lake | to face | 59 |
|
On the Top of Glopit. Returning from Rus Lake |
„ | 172 |
| Baking by Night in Memurudalen | „ | 178 |
| The Camp in Memurudalen | „ | 182 |
|
Death of the ‘Stor Bock’ at the Iceberg Lake, Tyknings Hö |
„ | 267 |
|
Good Sport, Bad Weather. The Skipper’s two ‘Stor Bocks’ |
„ | 279 |
| Cheerful! The Huts at Rus Lake | „ | 289 |
WOODCUTS IN TEXT.
|
Norwegian Arrangement of Dishes at Table |
10 |
|
Midnight Study of Stockings at Dalbakken |
26 |
| The Start on Espedals Lake | 29 |
| The Skipper’s first Cast | 30 |
| Our Camp on Espedals | 31 |
| Black-throated Diver | 36 |
| View of Bredsjö by Night | 40 |
| Sunset at Fly Sæter | 54 |
|
Desperate Conflict between Esau and the Mosquito |
58 |
|
Sæter Girls in a Boat on Sikkildals Lake |
65 |
|
Old Siva carrying a Canoe up the Sikkildals Pass |
73 |
| Greenshank | 77 |
| Ring Dotterel | 78 |
| Scaup | 80 |
| Our first View of Gjendin Lake | 83 |
| Two of our Retainers: Ivar and his Pony | 87 |
|
The Skipper returns to Camp disgusted with life |
93 |
| Throwing for a Rise | 99 |
|
The Skipper takes Miss Louise for a Cruise at Gjendesheim |
102 |
| The Huts at Rusvasoset | 109 |
|
John returns from fishing in Summer Costume |
121 |
| John and Esau: ‘How’s that for high?’ | 122 |
|
The two ‘Meget Stor Bocks’ (very big Bucks) on Memurutungen |
128 |
| Hot Soup and Northern Lights | 134 |
| Esau and Ola return in Triumph | 141 |
| A careful Finishing Shot | 143 |
| The Colony at Breakfast in Memurudalen | 159 |
| An Exciting Moment in Rus Lake Shallows | 168 |
| Esau’s Best Day among the Trout | 170 |
| Esau stalking near Hinaakjærnhullet | 188 |
| John diving for his knife in Rus Lake | 198 |
|
The Skipper about to astonish the Reindeer |
203 |
| Öla performing the Funeral Rites | 205 |
| Canoeing after Duck in a Storm | 236 |
| Andreas: our Retriever | 237 |
|
Ola and Andreas capturing a wounded Grouse |
238 |
|
John and the Skipper upsetting in the Canoe |
240 |
| Making a Portage by the Sjoa River | 244 |
| A Norwegian Fire-place | 246 |
|
Jens and his Pony on their way over Bes Fjeld |
252 |
| A Stormy Crossing at Rusvasoset | 259 |
|
Gloptind Rock, at the Western End of Rus Lake |
275 |
| The old stone Hut near Gloptind | 280 |
|
A Night at Rusvasoset, after a Day at Haircutting |
284 |
|
Rus Lake from the Western End: Nautgardstind in the Distance |
290 |
| Glissading home after a blank day | 293 |
|
Rus Lake from the Eastern End: Tyknings Hö and Memurutind in the distance |
294 |
|
Off! A Reindeer recollecting an engagement |
295 |
|
Old Buildings in the Courtyard at Bjölstad |
316 |
| Barley Sheaves: A Norwegian ‘Atrocity’ | 323 |
| Three at Home Again | 341 |
MAP.
| The Jotun Fjeld | at end of volume. |
INTRODUCTION.
HISTORY.
‘Canadian canoes are the only boats that will do’ was our conclusion after a thorough inspection of every existing species of boat, and long consultation with ‘Sambo’ of Eton about a totally new variety, invented but fortunately not patented by one of our number.
Our party consisted of three men, who shall be briefly described here. First, ‘the Skipper,’ so called from his varied experience by land and sea in all parts of the world, but especially in Norway, whither we were now intending to go in search of trout, reindeer, and the picturesque. The Skipper is lank and thin, looking as though he had outgrown his strength in boyhood, and never summoned up pluck enough to recover it again. His high cheek-bones and troubled expression give one the idea of a man who cannot convince himself that life is a success, which is perhaps pretty nearly the view he actually takes of existence.
Secondly, ‘Esau,’ who received this name in consequence of the many points in which his character and history resemble that of the patriarch who first rejoiced in it: for our Esau, like his prototype, is ‘a cunning hunter and man of the fjeld;’ and we are sure that if he ever had such a thing as a birthright, he would willingly have sold it for a mess of pottage. Esau is short and joyous, and is one of those people who never indigest anything, but always look and always are in perfect health and spirits. It is annoying to see a man eat things that his fellow-creatures can not without suffering for it afterwards, but Esau invariably does this at dinner, and comes down to breakfast next morning with a provoking colour on his cheek and a hearty appetite. His office in this expedition was that of Paymaster; not because he possessed any qualifications for the post, but because the Skipper had conclusively proved that such employment was too gross and mundane for his ethereal soul, by constantly leaving the purse which contained our united worldly wealth on any spot where he chanced to rest himself, when he and Esau went to spy out the land two years before this.
Lastly, ‘John,’ so called for no better reason than the fact that he had been christened Charles: he had never yet visited the wilds of Scandinavia. John is an Irishman, whose motto in life is ‘dum vivimus vivamus:’ he is tall and straight, with a colossal light moustache. He generally wears his hat slightly tilted forward over his forehead when engaged in conversation; and the set of his clothes and whole deportment convey an idea that he is longing to tell you the most amusing story in the world in confidence. He is no gossip, and the anecdotes of his countrymen, of which he has an inexhaustible supply always ready, are merely imparted to his listeners from philanthropic motives, and because he longs for others to share in the enjoyment which he gleans from their mental dissection.
The general idea of the campaign was that the Skipper and Esau should leave England in the early part of July; fish their way up a string of lakes into the Jotunfjeld, getting there in time for the commencement of the reindeer season; establish a camp somewhere; and then that John, starting a month later, should join, and the three of us sojourn in that land until we were tired thereof. How we accomplished this meritorious design we have tried to relate in the following pages.
GEOGRAPHY.
The map of Norway, apart from Sweden, presents an outline something like a tadpole with a crooked irregular tail. The Jotunfjeld is an extensive range of the highest mountains which are to be found in Northern Europe: before 1820 A.D. they were totally unexplored, and at the present time they are still perfectly wild and desolate, their summits covered with eternal ice and snow, and even their valleys uninhabited. That part of the Jotunfjeld which we intended to make our goal and headquarters is situated about the middle of the tadpole’s body, and nearly equidistant from Throndhjem and Christiania.
LANGUAGES.
It is customary when writing a book on any foreign country to scatter broadcast in your descriptions words and phrases in the language of that country, in order to show that you really have been there. We propose to depart from this usage in the course of this work; but if at any time the exigencies of narrative seem to demand the use of the foreign tongue, we have little doubt that the English language will provide an equivalent, which shall be inserted for the benefit of the uninitiated.
MATHEMATICS.
Foreigners have a curious prejudice which leads them to adopt different systems of coinage and measurement from those in favour in England. But shall a Briton pander to this prejudice by making any use of their ridiculous figures? Decidedly not. What matters it to us that a Norwegian land-mile contains seven of our miles, and a sea-mile four? we speak only of the British mile. What care we that the Norwegian kröne is worth about 13½d.? Shall that prevent us from always calling it a shilling? Never! And shall the fact that it is divided into ten 10-öre pieces (which are little nickel coins worth about five farthings each) restrain us from alluding to them as the ‘threepenny bits’ which they so much resemble? Not while life remains.
EXTRA SUBJECTS.
Some of the statements that will be found in these pages may strike the reader as being, to say the least of it, improbable. We therefore wish to explain that all the incidents of sport and travel are simple facts, but that here and there is introduced some slight fiction which is too obviously exaggerated to require any comment.