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Traditions of Edinburgh

Chapter 5: EDINBURGH OLD AND NEW.
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About This Book

A series of sketches and collected recollections documents the city’s streets, buildings, institutions, and the personalities who animated them, combining antiquarian detail with interviews of elderly residents. Topics move from the castle and famed closes to markets, taverns, and private houses, and include anecdotes about eccentric figures, literary personages, local scandals, and folkloric customs. The pieces emphasize continuity and change, preserving everyday stories, material curiosities, and manners that were passing from living memory while offering both nostalgic description and fact-minded observation.

CONTENTS.

PAGE
The Changes of the Last Hundred Years1
The Castle-Hill11

Hugo Arnot—Allan Ramsay—House of the Gordon Family—Sir David Baird—Dr Webster—House of Mary de Guise.

The West Bow26

The Bowhead—Weigh-house—Anderson’s Pills—Oratories—Colonel Gardiner—‘Bowhead Saints’—‘The Seizers’—Story of a Jacobite Canary—Major Weir—Tulzies—The Tinklarian Doctor—Old Assembly Room—Paul Romieu—‘He that Tholes Overcomes’—Provost Stewart—Donaldsons the Booksellers—Bowfoot—The Templars’ Lands—The Gallows Stone.

James’s Court55

David Hume—James Boswell—Lord Fountainhall.

Story of the Countess of Stair63
The Old Bank Close70

The Regent Morton—The Old Bank—Sir Thomas Hope—Chiesly of Dalry—Rich Merchants of the Sixteenth Century—Sir William Dick—The Birth of Lord Brougham.

The Old Tolbooth82
Some Memories of the Luckenbooths95

Lord Coalstoun and his Wig—Commendator Bothwell’s House—Lady Anne Bothwell—Mahogany Lands and Fore-stairs—The Krames—Creech’s Shop.

Some Memoranda of the Old Kirk of St Giles105
The Parliament Close109

Ancient Churchyard—Booths attached to the High Church—Goldsmiths—George Heriot—The Deid-Chack.

Memorials of the Nor’ Loch117
The Parliament House119

Old Arrangements of the House—Justice in Bygone Times—Court of Session Garland—Parliament House Worthies.

Convivialia138
Taverns of Old Times158
The Cross—Caddies174
The Town-Guard179
Edinburgh Mobs183

The Blue Blanket—Mobs of the Seventeenth Century—Bowed Joseph.

Bickers189
Susanna, Countess of Eglintoune192
Female Dresses of Last Century199
The Lord Justice-Clerk Alva204

Ladies Sutherland and Glenorchy—The Pin or Risp.

Marlin’s and Niddry’s Wynds209

Tradition of Marlin the Pavier—House of Provost Edward—Story of Lady Grange.

Abbot of Melrose’s Lodging223

Sir George Mackenzie—Lady Anne Dick.

Blackfriars Wynd228

Palace of Archbishop Bethune—Boarding-Schools of the Last Century—The Last of the Lorimers—Lady Lovat.

The Cowgate240

House of Gavin Douglas the Poet—Skirmish of Cleanse-the-Causeway—College Wynd—Birthplace of Sir Walter Scott—The Horse Wynd—Tam o’ the Cowgate—Magdalen Chapel.

St Cecilia’s Hall249
The Murder of Darnley256
Mint Close260

The Mint—Robert Cullen—Lord Chancellor Loughborough.

Miss Nicky Murray265
The Bishop’s Land269
John Knox’s Manse271
Hyndford’s Close275
House of the Marquises of Tweeddale—The Begbie Tragedy279
The Ladies of Traquair286
Greyfriars Churchyard288

Signing of the Covenant—Henderson’s Monument—Bothwell Bridge Prisoners—A Romance.

Story of Mrs Macfarlane291
The Canongate295

Distinguished Inhabitants in Former Times—Story of a Burning—Morocco’s Land—New Street.

St John Street302

Lord Monboddo’s Suppers—The Sister of Smollett—Anecdote of Henry Dundas.

Moray House306
The Speaking House312
Panmure House—Adam Smith318
John Paterson the Golfer320
Lothian Hut323
Henry Prentice and Potatoes325
The Duchess of Buccleuch and Monmouth327
Claudero330
Queensberry House336
Tennis Court344

Early Theatricals—The Canongate Theatre—Digges and Mrs Bellamy—A Theatrical Riot.

Marionville—Story of Captain Macrae351
Alison Square358
Leith Walk360
Gabriel’s Road366
INDEX369


LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

PAGE
An Elegant Modern CityFrontispiece
Map of Edinburgh, Old and Newxxvi
A series of towers rising from a palace on the plain to a castle in the airColour Drawing1
White Hart Inn, Grassmarket2
Newhaven Fishwife4
Rouping-Wife9
The Castle-Hill11
Duke of Gordon’s House18
The Bowhead27
Grassmarket, from west end of Cowgate50
Edinburgh, from the Calton Hill83
St Giles, West Window105
Heriot’s Hospital, from Greyfriars Churchyard113
A Suggestion of the North Loch and St Cuthbert’s, from Allan Ramsay’s Garden117
The Parliament House128
‘Auld Reekie,’ from Largo152
Upper Baxter’s Close, where Burns first resided in Edinburgh164
White Horse Inn170
Forenoon at the Cross174
The Town-Guard179
The Castle, from Princes Street214
Blackfriars Wynd228
The Cowgate240
Old Houses, College Wynd (near here Sir Walter Scott was born)242
John Knox’s Manse274
Greyfriars Churchyard288
St John’s Close, Entrance to Canongate Kilwinning Mason Lodge305

The objects of interest between the Castle and Holyrood are grouped topographically in the following list, with references to the Map.

CASTLE.

Blair’s or Baird’s Close1 Castlehill Walk or EsplanadeA Allan Ramsay’s Housea
Brown’s Close3 Blyth’s Close2
Webster’s Close5 CASTLEHILLB Nairn’s Close4
Site of the Duke of Gordon’s Houseb Weigh-Housed Tod’s Close6
Site of Mary of Guise’s Housec
 
West BowCC LAWNMARKETD Mylne’s Court8
Angle of BowZ Tolboothe James’s Court10
Riddel’s Close7 Luckenboothsf Lady Stair’s Close12
Brodie’s Close9 St Giles’ {Haddo’s Hole Churchg Upper Baxter’s Close14
Old Bank Close11Tolbooth Churchh Wardrop’s Court16
Liberton’s Wynd13Old Church Paterson’s Court18
New Church
 
Hope’s Close15 HIGH STREETEE Dunbar’s Close20
Beith’s or Bess Wynd17 Crossx Byres’s Close22
Parliament Close19 Guard Housei Writers’ Court24
Parliament Housek Tron Churchj Royal Exchange26
Back Stairs21 Mary King’s Close28
Fishmarket Close23 Post-Office Close30
Assembly Close25 Anchor Close32
Bell’s Wynd27 Lyon Close34
Peebles Wynd29 Jackson’s Close36
Marlin’s Wynd31 Fleshmarket Close38
Niddry’s Wynd33 Fleshmarketm
Site of St Cecilia’s Halll Greenmarketn
Dickson’s Close35 Halkerston’s Wynd40
Cant’s Close37 Carrubber’s Close42
Strichen’s Close39 Bailie Fife’s Close44
Blackfriars Wynd41 Chalmers’ Close46
Todrick’s Wynd43 John Knox’s Mansep
Mint Close45
The Old Minto
Hyndford’s Close47
Tweeddale Court49 Nether Bow Port.F
 
St Mary’s Wynd51 Leith Wynd48
Chessels’s Court53 Morocco’s Land50
Weir’s Close55 New Street52
Old Playhouse Close57 Jack’s Land54
St John’s Close59 Tolbooth Wynd56
St John’s Street61 CANONGATE. Canongate Church58
Moray House63 Canongate Churchyardq
Speaking House65 Panmure House60
Acheson House67 Golfers’ Land62
Queensberry House69 White Horse Inn64
Water Gater

EDINBURGH OLD AND NEW.

In the map the streets and buildings printed in black represent the historic Old Town; those in red indicate not merely the ‘New Town’ to the north, specifically so called, but some part of the alterations, additions, and extensions round the ancient nucleus that have gone to constitute the Edinburgh of the present day.

Click here to view a larger version of the map.

[Transcriber’s note: A larger version of the map is available in the HTML version of this text at Project Gutenberg.]

KEY TO THE STREETS AND BUILDINGS NOT NAMED ON MAP.

Acheson House67
Allan Ramsay’s Housea
Anchor Close32
Angle of BowZ
Assembly Close25
Back Stairs21
Bailie Fife’s Close44
Bank of Scotlandred F
Beith’s or Bess Wynd17
Bell’s Wynd27
Blackfriars Wynd41
Blair’s or Baird’s Close1
Blyth’s Close2
BristoN
Bristo PortO
Brodie’s Close9
Brown’s Close3
Byres’s Close22
Calton Burying-Groundt
Candlemaker RowT
Canongate Church58
Canongate Churchyardq
Cant’s Close37
Carrubber’s Close42
CastlehillB
Castlehill Walk or EsplanadeA
Castle Wynd74
Chalmers’ Close46
Chessels’s Court53
College Wynd71
Council Chambersred G
County Buildingsred I
Court of Sessionred K
CowgateJ J
Cowgate PortL
Crossx
Dickson’s Close35
Dunbar’s Close20
Established Church Assembly Hallred h
Fishmarket Close23
Fleshmarketm
Fleshmarket Close88
Free Libraryred L
General Post-Officered E
Golfers’ Land62
Gordon’s (Duke of) Houseb
Greenmarketn
Guard Housei
Halkerston’s Wynd40
Heriot’s HospitalV
Heriot-Watt Collegered n n
High School Wynd72
High StreetE E
HolyroodG
Hope’s Close15
Horse Wynd70
Hyndford’s Close47
Jack’s Land54
Jackson’s Close36
James’s Court10
John Knox’s Mansep
Lady Stair’s Close12
LauristonM M
LawnmarketD
Leith Wynd48
Liberton’s Wynd13
Luckenboothsf
Lyon Close34
Magdalen Chapel66
Marlin’s Wynd31
Mary King’s Close28
Mary of Guise’s House, Site ofc
Mint Close45
Mint, The Oldo
Moray House63
Morocco’s Land50
Mutrie’s Hillu
Mylne’s Court8
Nairn’s Close4
Nether Bow PortF
New Street52
Niddry’s Wynd33
Old Bank Close11
Old Playhouse Close57
Panmure House60
Parliament Close19
Parliament Housek
Paterson’s Court18
Peebles Wynd29
PleasanceR
PortsburghH
Post-Office Close80
PotterrowP
Potterrow PortQ
Queensberry House69
Register Housered A
Riddel’s Close7
Royal Exchange26
Royal InfirmaryK
Royal Scottish Academy Galleriesred B
St Cecilia’s Hall, Site ofl
St Giles’—
Haddo’s Hole Churchg
Tolbooth Churchh
St John’s Close59
St John’s Street61
St Mary’s Wynd51
Scottish National Galleryred C
Scott’s (Sir Walter) Monumentred D
Sheriff Court Housered M
Speaking House65
S.S.C. Libraryred J
Strichen’s Close39
Surgeons’ Hallred o
Tailors’ Hall68
Todrick’s Wynd43
Tod’s Close6
Tolboothe
Tolbooth Wynd56
Trinity College ChurchS
Tron Churchj
Tweeddale Court49
Upper Baxter’s Close14
Wardrop’s Court16
Water Gater
Webster’s Close5
Weigh-Housed
Weir’s Close55
West BowC C
West PortI
White Hart Inn73
White Horse Inn64
Writers’ Court24