I went to the dwelling of my host, where I spent the remainder of the evening. He came and sat by me to bear me company. He praised the honesty of his wife, and requested me to give her the care of my baggage, as the door of my own hut had no fastening. I was frequently obliged to go out, and, consequently, might easily have been robbed in my absence, and I thought I was less liable to incur any loss if I entrusted it to the care of the woman. My bag closed with a padlock, and, consequently, it could not be opened without my knowledge. My host provided for me a good supper of rice, with a sauce of dried fish; and, in return for his attention, I gave the cook some salt to season the supper of the whole family. This present more than paid for my repast. My host, seeing that I had colats, very frequently asked me for some. I observed that he drank a good deal of beer, and saw him, with several Bambaras, seated in his hut round a large vessel of hydromel. They had a little calabash, which they filled, and passed round one to another. They were all very merry, and my host was so intoxicated that he could scarcely speak. This habit of drinking rendered my residence with him unpleasant. His hut was large, built of earth, with a terraced roof. It had two doors, and a window in the roof, to admit the air. The cooking was performed at one end, not in the middle, as is usual in other places in this part of Africa.
CHAPTER XV.
Cultivation of tobacco. — Tangrera. — Fara. — Bangaro. — Itinerant musicians. — Débéna. — Tiara. — Part of the caravan proceeds to Sansanding. — Bee-hives. — Siracana. — The Bagoé, a navigable river. — The Lous. — Bandiarana. — Bridge over the Koua.
On the morning of the 20th of January, Karamo-osila came to take leave of me. He made me a present of ten large colats, and again assured me of his sorrow at parting from me. I was also vexed at the separation, for I had every reason to be satisfied with his conduct. He always defrayed the expenses of my living, with the exception of some fowls which I purchased myself, and I had only given him, as a compensation for his attention, a cap of coloured cloth, and the silver bracelet which I received from the almamy of Sambatikila. He left me, after wishing me a speedy departure and a pleasant journey. In the morning my host, who was then somewhat recovered from the carousal of the preceding evening, accompanied me on a visit to the chief of the village. Unfortunately I did not find the chief at home, and my host and I called on one of the sherif’s relations, whom we found sitting on a bullock’s hide, in a large hut, superintending the manipulation of tobacco. Six stout slaves were employed in this hard labour. Each was provided with a huge pestle, and the tobacco was pounded in a large mortar. It had an excellent odour, and was much paler in colour than ours. The slaves were quite naked, and the perspiration was running down their bodies. This merchant carried on a thriving trade; his house was always full of customers, and he had lying beside him a large heap of cowries, the produce of the day’s sale. The tobacco cultivated in the country is of a very small species, like that at Timé, and the leaves are short and narrow. The people pay little attention to its cultivation, and are not accustomed to cut off the head of the plant, as we do. At Tangrera, the leaves are dried in the shade, and afterwards made up into rolls: they thus acquire a pale chesnut colour.
It was about nine in the morning, when we returned home. My host told me in a very phlegmatic tone that he was tired, and asked me for colat-nuts. Soon afterwards I went back by myself to visit the chief, whom I found at home, lying on an ox-hide, in a miserable straw hut. After the usual salutations, he sent for two women, who had been to Jenné, to be my interpreters, for he supposed that I spoke the language of that country, and was exceedingly astonished when I told him that I did not understand it. I asked him in the Mandingo tongue, when the caravans for Jenné would start, and he told me that the merchants who made that journey were gone to Boyoko, to purchase colats; but that they would soon return, and then if I pleased I might travel with them. The soon of a negro, however, often means fifteen or twenty days. I learned that Boyoko is a village inhabited by Pagans, and that a market for the sale of colats is held there. It is twenty days’ journey S.S.E. of Tangrera.
Uncertain whether to wait a speedy opportunity for departing, and fearful of passing a second bad season in the interior, I finally resolved to rejoin the travellers who had set out in the morning. I hoped that by going to Sansanding and thence to Kayaye, I should meet with some opportunity to start for Jenné, and if not, I could leave Sansanding for El-Arawan, situated in the desert; and on reaching that town, I could form some definitive plan. I went immediately to seek the Moor Mohammed, to whom I communicated my project, of which he entirely approved. He accompanied me home, where I showed him several beautiful glass trinkets. However he was not tempted by them, and he even declined accepting a few sheets of paper, telling me I should have occasion for them on the road. After some persuasion, he at length consented to take one. He talked for a moment with my host, and they both went together to the chief’s house, to ask him to send a man to conduct me to the village, where the merchants going to Sansanding, were stopping. I was assured that the place was not very far distant.
Tangrera is a large walled village, shaded by great bombaces and baobabs. A well-stocked market is held there every day. The greater part of the huts are thatched with straw, but all those belonging to the heads of families are built of earth and have terraced roofs. The place is inhabited by Bambaras and Mandingoes, who live together in a very friendly footing; the Bambaras are the more numerous. They often meet in the course of the day under trees, to drink their beer, of which they are very fond. I saw in the village several wild fig-trees. The inhabitants are traders and cultivators. They manufacture a considerable quantity of cotton cloth, and hold frequent communications with the towns on the banks of the Dhioliba. They rear horned cattle, sheep, and some goats, and I also saw several fine horses; a rare sight in this part of the country. Cowries are the only current coin at Tangrera. This village is of the same size as Sambatikila, and contains nearly the same population. I went with my host to see the mosque; it is built of earth, and surmounted by several small massive towers. It is a shapeless edifice, the interior is dirty, and suffocatingly hot. The Musulmans, whose indolence is an antidote to their religious zeal, have not even taken the trouble to clear away the rubbish which was scattered on the floor during its construction. To be sure, they do not go very often to the mosque; for they repeat their prayers at home. Several Bambaras invited me jokingly to drink beer with them, but I affected a great aversion to that liquor.
In the course of the day, I sold some glass trinkets, to procure provisions for my journey. My host directed one of his women to attend to this business; and she took care to reserve a good profit for herself.
About three o’clock in the afternoon, the chief of Tangrera sent me the man who was to carry my luggage to Fara, where I was to rejoin my guide from Timé. My host escorted me out of the village, when, after wishing me a good journey, he took his leave. He had, in the course of the day, eaten half my colats, but I was pleased to find that his wife had taken only a few grains of salt which had not been put in my bag. My guide informed me that he was the son of the king of Tangrera. When we had advanced a little into the woods, he tried to frighten me. He threw down my bag, which was by no means heavy, saying that he was very much tired, and that either I must carry it in my turn, or give him some cowries for his trouble. I promised that on our arrival at Fara he should be rewarded to his satisfaction. He seemed to doubt the sincerity of my promise, and made many objections. However, finding me determined to resist, he took up the bag again, and proceeded on his way; but at such a quick pace that I could scarcely keep up with him. A little before we reached Fara, I had the same scene over again. He assured me that we were yet very far from the village, an assertion which I could the more easily believe, because Fara is so surrounded by large trees, that it is not seen until you are close upon it. Though my guide was much stronger than I, still I persisted in refusing to pay him before our arrival, well knowing, that if I had the weakness to yield to him, the prince of Tangrera would have left me to finish the journey alone, while he indulged a hearty laugh at my folly.
We entered the village towards sun-set, after crossing a little stream, in which the water did not rise above our ancles. I met several women of our caravan there, who appeared astonished to see me. We had travelled five miles to the N.N.E. During three of these miles the country was but slightly shaded by trees, and the surface of the ground was covered with stones, which caused me considerable pain in walking. I observed several cés and nédés. On my arrival I paid my royal guide, who joyfully returned home. Karamo-osila was very happy to see me again. He immediately informed all the people of the caravan of my arrival; they congratulated me on having rejoined them, and Karamo-osila expressed his regret at having left me alone among infidels. I gave a description of my host, who drank beer, and with whom I did not consider myself very secure; they all joined in laughing and ridiculing him. A fowl was bought to celebrate my return, and I furnished the salt for seasoning it. These merchants, not having made much profit, were obliged to be very economical. They seldom indulge themselves with fowls or fish, or with salt for seasoning their victuals. Sometimes I heard them say to each other: “It is a long time since we had any thing good; let us have a little salt in our supper.” Three or four of the same company often form a sort of partnership; they then mess together, each in turn defraying the expense.
At six in the morning of the 21st of January, we left the village of Fara, and proceeded to the N.W. travelling over a soil composed of gravel and ferruginous stones. I also observed a good deal of red sand. The road was very level, and occasionally shaded with trees. I did not see any trees of very large growth; indeed, none so high as our apple or pear tree. Bombaces and baobabs, the giants of the vegetable kingdom in this part of the world, grow only in the vicinity of villages; I never saw any of them in the woods. Our caravan had prodigiously increased since leaving Tangrera; and our number was now between five and six hundred persons, all laden, and all going to Sansanding and Yamina, besides nearly eighty asses. At ten in the morning we halted at Bangoro, a small walled town, containing about three or four thousand inhabitants. On entering the town, four officers of the customs met us, and, stopping the caravan, they took from each Mandingo a hat, or some other article, by way of security for the duties they had to collect. They were armed with sabres, which they held naked in their hands, but made no use of them. Several negroes of the village came to their assistance, for they had plenty to do with such a numerous caravan. A discussion arose between the officers and the merchants, the latter not liking to be deprived of their hats; but at length the matter was arranged, and we entered the town. As soon as we were installed in our abodes, the officers came to receive their dues, which were paid in colats. A little market was immediately opened under an enormous bombax. As I was going about, offering glass beads for sale, I was met by a saracolet from Tangrera, who, addressing me in the Mandingo language, requested me to follow him. He led the way to a hut, in front of which several of his comrades were sitting, some of whom spoke a little Arabic. He informed me that the Moor Mahomet, whom I had seen at Tangrera, sent his compliments to me, together with a hundred cowries, of which he begged my acceptance, wishing me a prosperous journey. The saracolet then presented his hand to me, saying Bismilahi; I understood by this, that he wished me to say a prayer, and I moved my lips for a moment, then with a serious air I blew upon his hand, which he drew across his face. He immediately counted me down a hundred cowries, adding to them twenty of his own, which were equivalent to a hundred of our country. After expressing my gratitude for this generous conduct, I took leave of the Moor, and hastened to communicate the good news to my guide, who loaded my benefactors with blessings. I immediately spent a few of the cowries in purchasing a fowl for my supper, of which I invited my guide and his companions to partake. They however out of compliment declined doing so, but I made them accept some portion of the fowl. We did not eat together, for I still bore marks of the scurvy: indeed that dreadful malady had entirely disfigured me. Karamo-osila had ordered his women to serve up my victuals apart from the rest, and my guide, who was very attentive to me, often examined my allowance, and if he did not think it enough added some of his own to it.
I observed round the village some very high ronniers and several palm-trees. In the evening about a hundred women assembled in the market-place. Their dress consisted merely of a pagne fastened round the waist; and on their heads they had small straw hats, which fell a little over the ears. Several of them had in their hands tambourines, made of a calabash covered with tanned sheep-skin, and ornamented with iron rings, which produced an agreeable sound. They sung wild airs, and danced together keeping time to their singing and flourishing their tambourines. In this manner, they danced several times round the place, and then went off singing. I walked along the streets, which are narrow and dirty; I saw several men parading about, beating large drums, and women with tambourines, suspended from their necks; to these tambourines were affixed small boards covered with bells and little bits of iron, which being shaken struck against the instrument, and produced a very pleasing sound. I concluded that all these musicians were what are called at the Senegal griotes, or wandering minstrels, who make it their business to sing songs in praise of any who will pay them; those whom I saw at Bangoro were very modest, and did not, like their fraternity at the Senegal, teaze passengers for presents.
These people are always gay; and their cheerfulness forms a striking contrast with the dull, gloomy look of the fanatic Musulman.
The women of this place wear on their lower lip a piece of pewter fastened internally by a plate of the same metal; one end pointed, about two inches long and as thick as a quill projecting on the outside of the lip. This curious ornament is a little varied according to the fancy of the wearers. The custom of piercing the lip is general among the female sex in this part of the country. It is an indispensable ornament to beauty, in the lips of these African coquettes and their admirers. I could not help laughing when I thought of the singular effect such an ornament would produce on the red and white lips of my own fair countrywomen.
On the 22nd January, at six o’clock in the morning, we bade adieu to the merry inhabitants of Bangoro. Our course lay to the N.W. We travelled five miles over a sandy soil covered with stones, and crossed two small dried up marshes. My guide told me that, when he last passed this place, he had experienced much difficulty, the country being at the time inundated, and that, if I had travelled with him in the preceding August, I should probably have been left on the road. The country is in general very naked. About nine o’clock we halted at Débéna, a town containing four or five thousand Bambara inhabitants. The place is surrounded by a wall and a market is held in it. In this market the people of the caravan went to display their salt and colats, which they exchanged with the Bambaras, who, for the value of ten cowries, can purchase seasoning for a whole family’s dinner. However, they seldom indulge in this luxury, and when they buy salt, they reserve it for festivities and rejoicings. The town of Débéna is composed of several small hamlets, very near each other, and the market was held under a large bombax.
In all the inhabited places, situated on our route, we found markets well stocked with the productions of the country, as well as with fish, which is caught in the neighbouring streams, but which is never offered for sale, until it is dried. On my arrival at any village, I always went to the market, to purchase my breakfast. In all the villages between Tangrera and Jenné, there are in the markets women who sell small fried cakes, which are very acceptable to travellers. They cost one or two cowries a piece, and as soon as the merchants arrive at a halting station, they send one of their women to the market to buy some of these cakes, which they eat, while dinner is preparing.
On the 23d of January, at six in the morning, we set off and proceeded nine miles, first to the N.N.E. and then to the E.N.E. The soil over which we travelled was composed of hard grey sand and some ferruginous stones. No vegetation was visible except cés and nédés. In this part, the country is very level.
We stopped about nine o’clock at Tiara, a village surrounded by a wall. A little before we reached it, we crossed a small river, which supplies the inhabitants with water. The village is shaded by bombaces and baobabs, and the inhabitants cultivate tobacco in the gardens surrounding their huts. The market is not well stocked, and we had a good deal of difficulty to procure millet for our supper. In the evening a man belonging to our caravan came to me joyfully and told me that we were going to Jenné. At first, I thought he was jesting with me, but my guide Karamo-osila came soon afterwards to inform me that it was determined we should take that direction, because there were already too many merchants going to Sansanding. Our caravan was indeed, exceedingly numerous. I cannot express the gratification I felt at this happy news, for it was not without great reluctance that I had resolved to take the road to Sansanding, a course which thwarted all my plans, and deprived me of all chance of visiting Timbuctoo. I made my guide a present, as a token of the pleasure I felt at his resolution, and purchased a fowl that we might have a good supper. As my companions had before declined accepting any part of the poultry I bought for myself, for fear of depriving me of it, I insisted on their taking this whole of the fowl; but yet, at supper time, my guide himself brought me my portion of it.
I saw in this village a very large tree, the branches of which were fringed with small roots. At Tangrera I had observed a similar one. It also grows in the island of Saint-Louis in the Senegal. This tree, which is a species of ficus indica, is milky and viscous; the natives hold their banancoro in its shade.
On the 24th of January, at six in the morning, the chief part of our company took a N.W. direction, on their way to Sansanding. We took the road to Jenné, proceeding four miles to the N.E. over a very smooth soil, composed of hard grey sand, covered with ferruginous stones. We crossed several small streams, the water of which reached to our knees. The vegetation did not vary much; but I observed a tree which is common in the neighbourhood of the Senegal; it bears a round and rather flat fruit, and of the size of a golden rennet. It has a grey pellicle, and the pulp, of which the negroes are very fond, is of a greenish colour. The kernel is fibrous, and the leaves of the tree are pinnate, and as large as those of the ash. The negroes use the bark in distempers, employing it as a caustic. About nine in the morning, we arrived at Douasso, where we stopped. It is a small village without walls, containing about two hundred, or two hundred and fifty inhabitants.
I experienced great pain in my palate, for the sores occasioned by the scurvy, were not yet healed. During the halt, I kept myself apart from my companions, being unwilling that they should witness my sufferings, or the painful operations which I was myself obliged to perform, having no one capable of rendering me those disagreeable services. I drew from my palate a bone, which was connected with the skull. I asked my guide to procure some of the astringent, which the natives employ in such disorders. He immediately ordered one of his women to prepare me some and I used it with success.
Throughout all this part of Africa, even on this side of Baléya, the negroes place hives in the trees, for bees to settle in. They collect a great quantity of honey, of which they are very fond. These hives are made of the bark of trees, and covered with straw. I saw several green trees, entirely stripped of the bark for this purpose. In the environs of the village, millet and maize are cultivated. Markets are not held daily, but some women came and sold us millet and pistachio-nuts for supper.
On the 25th of January, at six in the morning, we proceeded northward, at first over a sandy and well cultivated tract, and afterwards over a soil composed of red earth covered with gravel, and having ferruginous stones on the surface. This country is full of cés and nédés. We met a caravan of Mandingo merchants coming from Kayaye, where they had been buying salt. They had with them many asses, and the animals were adorned with fine scarlet bridles, which are sold in the markets on the banks of the Dhioliba. These bridles were studded with cowries, and bells; each ass had about fifty bells attached to his collar, so that their approach was audible from some distance. The salt appeared to me to be rather dark in colour, and very coarse in the grain. It was made up in cakes of two feet and a half long, one foot broad and two inches thick. An ass generally carries four of these cakes, and a negro two and a half; the women carry only two, but their burthen is augmented by calabashes and cooking utensils.
About nine in the morning, we reached Siracana, a large walled village, containing from six to eight hundred inhabitants. It is situated in an open plain. The soil, composed of grey earth, mixed with a good deal of sand, is in the proper season well cultivated. On my arrival, the Bambara at whose hut we went to put up would not let me in, because I was white, and therefore, he said, I might bring him ill luck. I sat down on a stone near the hut; and here I waited exposed to the heat of a burning sun, until my guide and three other Mandingoes succeeded in bringing the simple and superstitious Bambara to reason. They gave him a glowing account of my adventures, and the manner in which I had been carried off by the christians. They told him that I was now on my return to my own country, near Mecca; that it would be a meritorious action to receive me, and that those who treated me well would go straight to paradise. The negro, convinced by these powerful arguments, admitted me into his hut, where I, as well as my companions, enjoyed the benefit of the shade. The negro was doubtless delighted by the assurance he had received of going to paradise, for in the evening he and some of his friends came to see me, and sitting down by me, they gazed at me attentively. He begged me to excuse the reception I had met with in the morning, which he said was entirely owing to a mistake, for he at first supposed I was a christian. He afterwards requested me to accept a fowl for my supper.
I saw in this village a female trader and manufacturer, a native of Ségo. She bought cotton and employed her slaves in spinning it. I visited the market, which appeared very dull; it was scantily supplied, and we had some difficulty in procuring millet for our supper. I saw in the market, cotton, earthen utensils, tobacco, and the fried cakes called maumies: the latter were sold by women, whose dirty appearance was by no means calculated to tempt customers. There were not altogether more than thirty women in the market, which was held under a great bombax. Though there were some cattle in the village, yet we could procure no milk. There were in some of the huts beds formed of three or four trunks of trees, raised a little above the ground; we had one of these beds in our hut. Between the trunks of the trees, a small intervening space is left, into which I crept with the intention of taking a nap; but I found myself so uncomfortable, that I was glad to stretch myself on the floor, covered with my wrapper.
On the 26th of January, at six in the morning, we set out in the direction of E.N.E. We passed a small marsh, which, being dried up, afforded pasture for a few sheep. We also forded a river, which runs into the Dhioliba; the water was more than knee-deep at the part where we crossed. We pursued our course over a sandy gravelly soil, the country presenting one uniform aspect for the space of four or five miles. About eight in the morning we arrived at Sounibara, a small village, containing a population of about two or three hundred. Not being able to procure provisions here, we made no halt. After leaving the village, we passed some wells, fifteen or sixteen feet deep. The ground in which they were dug was composed of a reddish kind of sand, mixed with much gravel. I also observed veins of grey argillaceous earth mixed with gravel, about two feet and a half thick: the earth nearest to the water was argillaceous, and contained some flints. These wells afford abundance of good water, but it has a whitish tint from the clay. We saw a number of women employed in washing their pagnes. They draw the water from the wells in small calabashes, attached to ropes made of the bark of trees; and other calabashes of larger size served them to wash in. I saw that they used a kind of soap, called in the country saboune or safnan. These names are known throughout the interior, from the Senegal to Bondou, Caarta, and Cason. The Brakna Moors call their soap sabon. All these words bear a strong resemblance to the French savon.[60] The Bambara washerwomen, whom I have just mentioned, were stark naked, yet they manifested no shame at being seen in this state by the men composing our caravan.
We advanced three miles to the south, over a soil composed of grey sand and gravel. We halted at Fara about one in the afternoon. The country over which we had travelled was one immense forest of cés. In this part the cé surpasses every other tree in abundance, and the natives carry on a considerable trade in the butter which they obtain from it. They take it to Jenné, where they sell it to the caravans which stop at that town. In all the inhabited places through which I passed, I saw women carrying calabashes filled with this butter, some of which I often purchased. The price of a pound was forty cowries (about four French sous). The negro, whose business it was to provide millet for the whole caravan, on his return from the market informed us that it was much dearer than it had been for several preceding days. The expenses of each meal for our party, consisting of fifteen or sixteen persons, had usually been about eighty cowries: in the village of Fara, it amounted to thirty more. I was informed that the further we advanced towards Jenné, the dearer we should find provisions. Their high price is occasioned by the number of merchants travelling this way.
At six o’clock in the morning of the 27th of January, we left Fara, and took the direction of N.N.E. over a road covered with grey sand. We next reached the banks of the Bagoé, the White River of the negroes. Its course is from E.S.E. to W.S.W., its banks, which are thickly wooded, rise to the height of thirty or forty feet, and are composed of a yellow kind of sand, mixed with clay, together with some veins of grey argillaceous earth, about eighteen inches or two feet thick. The Bagoé swells in the rainy season, and inundates the neighbouring country, rendering it very marshy. Indeed, to some distance over land, the flood is so great that canoes pass through it. The river is nearly as wide as the Milo at Kankan. It is deep, and navigable for large canoes. It has many windings, and after flowing for the space of five or six miles W.S.W. it turns northward and falls into the Dhioliba. According to the information I collected from the natives and Mandingo travellers, the Bagoé comes from the south, passes Teuté (whither they go to buy colat-nuts), and then falls into the Dhioliba a little below Ségo. We were a long time crossing it, great delay being occasioned by the quantity of our baggage, as well as by the discussion about the fare, which we had to pay in cowries. The negroes, who are naturally chilly, kindled a fire, and seated themselves round it, to settle the price to be paid for the passage. The Bambara who owned the canoe gave to each individual a piece of wood, which was returned to him as they stepped ashore; thus he secured himself against any mistake which might have arisen from the confusion and the number of persons. The canoe in which we crossed was tolerably large. It was near noon when we reached the right bank. The current was slow, flowing, perhaps, at the rate of a knot and a half an hour.
We continued our course to the N.E., and, about two o’clock, arrived at a neat village, called Courounina, where we halted to dine. After eating a little boiled rice, with some bad herb sauce, and paying the chief the passage-duty, we again started, taking a N.E. direction. After crossing a little stream, we arrived, shortly before night-fall, at Missabougou. The country through which I passed during the day resembled all that I had seen for several days preceding, and was well cropped with millet, pistachios, &c. The inhabitants thronged to see me; they looked at me with earnest curiosity, saying, that they had never seen a Moor so white as I was.
A little after sun-set, as I was standing by the fire, boiling some pieces of bark to wash my mouth, which was still very painful, a young negro of our caravan, who had shewn me marks of attention during the whole of the journey, informed me that I must not stay out too late, because, if the Lous should see me, they would beat me unmercifully. I did not know what he meant, and asked him to explain himself. He told me that throughout the whole of Bambara, there are men who live all day in the woods, in huts made of the branches of trees. They have with them boys, to whom they teach the mysteries of their ceremonies. Every night they issue from the woods, accompanied by the boys, running about the village, uttering frightful cries, and making a thousand hideous contortions. On their approach, the terrified inhabitants shut themselves up in their huts; but there are some men, added the negro, who are not afraid of the Lous. I immediately conjectured, that these Lous must be an association similar to that of the Simos, which I have already described as existing among the people who inhabit the banks of the Rio Nuñez, and also among the Timannees. I was confirmed in this supposition, when the young negro informed me that, on rejoicing days, they give notice of their intention to shew themselves openly. They come and join in the festivities of the day, and then return to their habitations, laden with presents of every kind, which all, and particularly the women, are eager to bestow upon them. The young negro, from whom I learned these particulars, had made several journeys through this country, and had acquired an acquaintance with the manners of the people, which a stranger can obtain but slowly and imperfectly. He, moreover, informed me that the Lous drink the beer of the country, with which they frequently become intoxicated.
In the evening, I heard some strange howlings in the vicinity of the village. I made no doubt that the Lous had commenced their nightly incursions, and felt great curiosity to see them. I cautiously crept out of my hut, and took my station behind a little palisade, whence I could see without being seen. I soon saw a man advance. His head was covered with a piece of rag, and from various parts of his body were suspended bells and little bits of iron, which made a horrid jingling noise. Before he entered the village, he announced his approach by running round it, uttering frightful howlings, and rattling his noisy appendages. He was followed by a number of boys, dressed like himself. I heard some old men, who were sitting conversing together at their doors, call out to the Lou, not to go that way, as there were people there; and he and his retinue immediately turned another way. During a great part of the night I could get no sleep, on account of the howling of these savages.
At six next morning, we left Missabougou, and travelled six miles N.E. Our road was covered with ferruginous stones. About nine in the morning, we halted at Badiarana, a village containing about eight or nine hundred inhabitants. The market was abundantly supplied with all the necessaries of life. The inhabitants maintain a considerable trade; merchants from Ségo and Yamina bring salt to Badiarana, which they exchange for cloth of native manufacture, and cowries. Mandingoes coming from the market of Jenné also traffic at Badiarana, to procure a supply of cowries for the remainder of their journey. I inquired of several merchants the distance of this place from Ségo. They all concurred in telling me that Kayaye, a large commercial town, was nine days’ journey north of Badiarana, and that Ségo was nine days’ journey from Kayaye in the same direction.
As we approached the village, the chief stopped the caravan in a field to count the loads. To guard against any mistake in the payment of the passage-duties, he gave to each merchant as many pieces of wood as he had loads. Each load was charged at the rate of twenty colat-nuts, the price of the latter being from fifteen to eighteen cowries a-piece in the village. The chief lodged us in some large huts. On our arrival, I immediately visited the market, where I bought some maumies and sour milk. The market is kept in very good order. The dealers, who were ranged in two rows, were neatly dressed, and behaved with great civility to those who bought their commodities, which consisted of the produce of the country. Their shops were filled with cotton, raw and manufactured, salt, millet, allspice, long pepper, pistachios, zambalas, the fruit of the baobab, and the dried leaves of that tree, which are used in cookery. I also exhibited my ware, and sold some glass ornaments and pieces of coloured calico, which strongly excited the admiration of the negroes. I afterwards went, accompanied by my guide, to visit the chief. I found him seated in a large hut, surrounded by some Mandingo merchants, who were engaged in discussing their affairs. The wife of the chief had seen my glass trinkets, and she begged her husband to buy some for her. I sold him about twenty beads, at thirty cowries each. Several women purchased from me little bits of coloured stuff, measuring about eighteen or twenty inches long, and four broad, for each of which they paid me three hundred cowries, worth twenty four French sous. One of the confidants of the chief, who received the colats in payment of the passage-duties, presented me with ten very fine ones, which he begged me to accept. This man’s hands and feet were covered with leprosy. My companions found a sale for some of their colats. At supper time, as I was taking the air in the court, I saw the chief of the village stretched upon a mat, with his head supported on a log of wood, and beside him stood a young negress, who was attending upon him. Shortly afterwards, six or seven of his wives brought him by turns a calabash of tau for his supper. He tasted a little of the contents of each calabash, distributed a portion to some Bambaras, who were lying beside him, and the cooks successively carried away the remainder. It is the custom of this country for the wives of a rich man, each to prepare her own supper separately, and then to carry it to the head of the family before she touches it herself. The wives of the poorer class cook the supper of the whole family, and perform this office by turns. I was pretty near the chief, and was much astonished that he did not invite me to partake of the repast, a custom which is so generally prevalent in these countries. The wells at Badiarana are dug seven or eight feet deep, in a soil consisting of mixed sand and gravel. There is grey argillaceous earth at the bottom of these wells, and the water, though rather white, is pleasant to drink.
On the 29th of January, at six o’clock in the morning, we set off, proceeding northward, over a road covered with ferruginous stones and red gravel. After crossing a large stream, we reached Timbala, where we passed the remainder of the day, being all greatly fatigued.
On the 30th of January, at six o’clock in the morning, we left Timbala. After travelling some distance N.N.W. I was shewn the road leading to Ségo and Yamina. We turned N.N.E., taking the road to Jenné, and, after proceeding eight miles in that direction, we halted. At a short distance from Timbala, we saw several women cooking maumies, which they sold to the people of the caravan. They had some difficulty in supplying us, for we all wanted some, under the expectation that we should have to travel a considerable distance without halting. However, this plan was changed, and about ten o’clock we stopped at Touriat, a little unwalled village. Our road, during the morning, was over very hard grey sand, and shaded by bombaces, baobabs, and cés; the latter were very abundant. A man belonging to our caravan being ill, his companions subscribed together for the purchase of a kid, for, since our departure, they had scarcely eaten any thing but tau, and herb sauce without salt. My guide gave me a bit of the kid, about the size of an egg; for it was divided among so many, that even my allowance was more than fell to the lot of some of the rest.
The country round the village is very open, and the soil level. The cé and the nédé are more numerous than any other trees. Touriat contains between three and four hundred inhabitants.
On the 31st of January, at six in the morning, after proceeding some distance N.N.E., over a soil composed of hard sand, and covered with ferruginous stones and gravel, we arrived at Magna-Gnounan, where we stopped to dine. In the neighbourhood of the village there are some pretty little gardens, planted with onions and beans, which the inhabitants cultivate carefully: they use the leaves for making their sauces. I also saw some fields of tobacco, which, in this place, is cultivated no better than at Timé; but it is of a finer kind: the leaves are broad and very long, and, if it were well attended to, it would thrive as well as that cultivated in Europe. The village of Magna-Gnounan is walled, and contains about two hundred and fifty inhabitants; the environs are well wooded with mimosas and large baobabs. I saw some cotton plantations; but they appeared to be neglected. I sat down beyond the boundaries of the village, in the shade of a baobab, and roasted some pistachios for my dinner, which I shared with some of my companions.
At the distance of a mile south-east I observed two hills, about a hundred, or a hundred and twenty fathoms in height: they appeared to be clothed with fine vegetation. Under the baobabs, on the outside of the village, a little market is held; but it is ill supplied, and nothing is sold in it but pistachios and millet. About half-past two o’clock we left Magna-Gnounan, and proceeded six miles northward, over a road covered with ferruginous stones and gravel. The butter-tree still continued to be abundant. We crossed four streams, all tributary to the Dhioliba. A little before sun-set we halted at Khoukhola, where we passed the night. This neat little village is shaded by numerous baobabs, with the fruit and leaves of which the inhabitants trade. I saw some huts built of bricks baked in the sun.
At six in the morning, we resumed our journey in the direction of N.N.E. The soil over which we passed was composed of hard grey sand, mixed with white and pink calcareous stones. After travelling four miles, we came to a large stream, and next arrived at Kiébala, a small village, where we settled the passage duties, without being detained more than an hour. I saw in this village several wells; pieces of wood were fixed round them to prevent the earth from falling in. I also observed some tobacco-plantations. The caravan stopped in a field without the village; not far from this spot I saw a tree, to the branches of which were tied pieces of string, leather, cloth, &c. Under the tree were some empty earthen vessels, ranged in regular order. I was informed that this was a burial place. It is the custom of the Bambaras to deposit in the graves of the dead, provisions, cloth, and various other things, keeping a portion of these articles, which they hang upon a tree near the burial place, and putting the eatables into earthen vessels. If, during the night, dogs, or any wild animal, should devour the latter, it is believed that the guardian spirit of the deceased has been banqueting at his grave. These superstitions prevail only in some parts of the country.
Continuing our course N.E., on a soil similar to that which we had passed over in the morning, about ten or eleven o’clock, we arrived at Sérasso, where we passed the rest of the day. This village, which contains a population of about three hundred, is situated in a well cultivated plain, covered with cés, nédés, bombaces, baobabs, and mimosas. Since we left the village of Fara, yams and rice had become very rare. They are but little cultivated, owing, no doubt, to the dryness of the ground; for rains are not so common in this direction as further to the south. Millet of both kinds and maize are, however, cultivated here; the former in great abundance.
On the 2nd of February, at six o’clock, we left Sérasso, and proceeded eastward, in order to cross a bridge at a short distance from the village. This bridge is built, like that of Cambaya, across the Tankisso, except that it is covered with straw, and then with a layer of earth. It had steps on each side, a precaution which I had not hitherto seen among the negroes. This bridge is more convenient than any other I saw in the interior. At its entrance were stationed two negroes, who were sitting beside a little fire, though the weather was any thing but cold. The heat here is nearly the same as at the Senegal; but it varies a little. The two negroes received the passage-duties: they demanded twenty cowries for each load of colats. The Mandingoes would have preferred paying double the amount in kind; for they had not much money. The men and women passed gratis. We were delayed for a considerable time by the stubbornness of the asses; the negroes had infinite trouble in getting them across; two were carried as far as the middle of the bridge, and then they darted off at full gallop. The natives of the country are not required to pay passage-duty; this contribution is only demanded from foreigners. I asked several persons the name of the stream we had just crossed. They told me it was called Koua, a name which I know is common to all streams. We advanced four miles E.N.E., across a level plain, covered with large trees; the soil was composed of hard grey sand, and here and there I perceived some blocks of black granite.
About nine in the morning we halted at Mouriosso. The houses in this place are surmounted by terraces built of bricks baked in the sun. Shortly before we entered the village, we crossed a stream, on the banks of which I saw gardens containing fine beds of onions. These gardens are cultivated by the women, many of whom were employed in weeding. They water the ground frequently. Near the gardens are wells, two feet deep, whence the water is taken in calabashes to which no ropes are attached. The soil of these gardens is black, rich, and very productive. They are surrounded by fences of dry briars and thorns, to keep out the poultry. Several of the women whom we saw in these gardens had no other clothing than wretched pagnes fastened round their waists. They came to sell us tops of onions to put into our sauce. We paid them in cowries with which they bought glass beads to adorn themselves. They sometimes wear necklaces of chesnut-coloured beads, which are preferred in the country to all others, because they are the cheapest.
On our arrival a market was immediately opened under a large tree, the branches of which were covered with roots, like one I saw on a former occasion and which I have already mentioned. The market was supplied with millet, a little rice, pistachios, onions, and zambalas. There were also some women selling maumies, some of which we bought, as our dinner was not ready.
The village is composed of numerous little enclosures, each of which is occupied by one family. The place contains a population of about two hundred. The people cultivate round their little habitations water-melons, giraumons, and calabashes, the stems of which they train up to the roofs of their huts. The fields surrounding the village are sown with small millet: I saw some persons employed in weaving; but smiths, if there be any, are not common, for I did not see one.
CHAPTER XVI.
Oulasso. — Facibrisso. — Toumané. — Implements of husbandry. — Couara. — Koraba. — Douasso. — Kong. — Baunan. — Garo. — Forges. — Nibakhasso.
About two o’clock in the afternoon, we left the village of Mouriosso, and proceeded in the direction of E.N.E. over a hard soil, composed of grey earth mixed with sand, and studded with ferruginous stones and gravel. It was barren in the extreme. About six in the evening we halted at Oulasso, a village, the huts of which are enclosed and built like those of Mouriosso, and containing three or four hundred inhabitants. In this village we found a caravan of Mandingo traders coming from the south, where they had been buying colat-nuts, which they intended to sell at Jenné. A large hut was assigned to us; but we could not stay in it on account of the heat and smoke. The fire was lighted at the further end of the hut, which might be about twenty feet long by eight broad, and the smoke had no outlet but the door. The fire consequently produced the same effect as a furnace. I passed the night under a mimosa, which grew before our hut, having covered myself with my wrapper, for the air was cool.
As the village was too small to afford lodging for two caravans several of the merchants slept, like myself, in the open air; however, they took the precaution of lighting fires. These fires, glimmering through the village, had a very curious effect. They served for the women to cook by; at our last halting station we had procured millet enough for the supper of the whole party; it was well we had taken this precaution, for we could get nothing at Oulasso. The soil in the vicinity of the village consists of very productive sand, in part cultivated. The Bambara inhabitants did not understand the Mandingo language; but we had the good fortune to meet with a woman who acted as our interpreter.
On the 3rd of February, at six in the morning, we proceeded in the direction of N.E. Our caravan was now very strong, being augmented by that which we had joined the preceding evening. We pursued our course over a soil composed of sand and very hard earth, covered with stones and gravel, which rendered the road very fatiguing. The country was, however, well wooded with cés and nédés. We crossed three large streams, by which we were detained a long time on account of our asses. The banks of these streams were thickly wooded, and in the shady parts grew many palm-trees. The natives are not aware that this tree furnishes an intoxicating liquor; they extract the oil, which they are very fond of, and with which they anoint their bodies. The palm-tree does not grow so abundantly here as on the coast. About ten o’clock in the morning we arrived at Facibrisso, where there is a great market for colat-nuts, allspice, long pepper, which is brought from the south, cloth manufactured in the country, and salt brought from the banks of the Dhioliba, besides a considerable quantity of millet, cotton, pistachios, and other native produce. The huts, which have flat roofs and only a ground-floor, are built of bricks baked in the sun. They are extremely inconvenient and so slight that they frequently fall down. All the villages, as far as Jenné, are built in the same way, and in general shaded by numerous bombaces and baobabs. The inhabitants gather the fruit of the baobab and sell it to the caravans. They even carry it to Jenné, where it is scarce, and from Jenné it is exported to Timbuctoo. The cé and the nédé are astonishingly abundant in all this part of the country. Proceeding towards the north, the baobabs become less common and the bombaces surpass them in size. The ronnier is abundant in some places.
On the 4th of February, at six in the morning, we set off in the direction of E.S.E. over a very good fertile soil. We crossed a river, after which we proceeded along a road covered with gravel. After travelling four miles we reached Toumané, where we found a numerous caravan on its way from Jenné. These traders brought us the unwelcome information that colats were very plentiful and very cheap at Jenné. This news was very disheartening to the poor merchants from Timé.
I went to see the market, which I found better than those of the villages through which I had previously passed. It was held under a sort of penthouse, which kept off the rain in bad weather. It was very well supplied with all the productions of the country. I even saw butcher’s meat and European commodities, such as cloth, muskets, powder and glass trinkets. The female traders managed their business cleverly. I bought some maumies, which were better made and superior to those in other villages. I saw some wild Guinea fowl, which are very common in this country: they are sold at the same price as common fowls. There were in this village many strangers from Ségo, Yamina, and other places. The inhabitants paid no particular attention to me, all taking me for a Moor. I found them mild and civil towards strangers; they were very neatly dressed, in comparison with the inhabitants of the villages which I had visited. My guide, Karamo-osila, discouraged by the news brought by the merchants from Jenné, resolved a second time to proceed by the way of Kayaye and Sansanding. This decision would have annoyed me extremely if the rest of the party had concurred in it; but he and his associates were the only persons who approved the plan. I made a bargain with an old man from Timé who was going to Jenné, and promised that on reaching this town I would give him a beautiful piece of cloth if he would allow his ass to carry my luggage. This arrangement seemed to please him. On the evening of our separation, I wished to make a third present to my guide, consisting of a piece of coloured cloth; but he declined accepting it, telling me, that in serving me he had not been influenced by motives of interest, but by the wish to perform an action which would be agreeable to God and the prophet. He added that I had a long journey before I should reach Mecca, and that, as my resources were not great, they would if I made frequent presents soon be exhausted. I was not to be duped by this; I perceived that he wanted something else: in fact he asked me to sell him a pair of scissors and some paper. Being convinced that I should be thought greedy if I sold him these articles, I promised to give him them at our parting, which was to be the next day. During the journey I had lent seven hundred cowries, partly to my guide and partly to other persons of the caravan. They all faithfully repaid me.
On the morning of the 5th of February, I went, accompanied by Karamo-osila, to call on the man from Timé, with whom I was henceforth to travel. At parting from my old guide, I presented him with the pair of scissors and the paper which I had promised him. He asked me for some cowries to enable him to pursue his journey, under the pretence that his colat-nuts would not sell, and that he should be unable to purchase provisions: I paid little attention to his request. Although I had every reason to praise his conduct, yet I parted from him without regret, for I was continually annoyed by his people, and principally by his wives, who took pleasure in tormenting me. I was their butt, and a constant subject of amusement to them. Indeed, during the halts, from the annoyance which I experienced, I might have fancied myself still at Timé; the men never took the trouble to make them hold their tongues.
At seven o’clock on the morning of the 5th of February, we separated, Karamo-osila going to the N.N.E. and we to the east. At a little distance from the village we crossed a stream by a very substantial bridge. There were between six and seven hundred persons and thirty or forty asses to pass. Many travellers with their women forded the stream, being up to their waists in water. It was a terrible scene of uproar and confusion. Every one was loudly disputing about the amount of the passage-duty, which was paid in cowries. Our caravan had been augmented by a number of merchants who traded in cloth, allspice, and long pepper. Having reached the opposite bank of the stream, we proceeded towards the N.E. along a fine level road. The country was open and interspersed with cés and nédés. The soil, composed of grey sand, was broken here and there by little hills. We crossed a dry marsh, covered with rich pasture, into which the natives turn their cattle. The inhabitants of the neighbouring villages are so industrious as to make dikes. They are raised to the height of three and a half, or four feet, so as to confine the waters of the marsh, which would otherwise inundate the country in the months of August and September.
About nine o’clock in the morning we halted at Oulasso, a village composed of three or four small enclosures of equal size, and containing about three hundred inhabitants.
At six in the morning of the 6th of February, we again set out and proceeded six miles N.E. over the same kind of soil as on the preceding day. The country was covered with bombaces and baobabs. We halted about nine in the morning at Chesso. This village is formed like Oulasso, of several little enclosures, very near to each other. The surrounding country is very bare. There is a marsh, on the borders of which the natives cultivate onions, beans, giraumons, &c. There are also within the village many bombaces and baobabs. On arriving at the hut allotted to us, I saw at the door a very dirty woman baking cakes in an earthen frying-pan made in the country. I bought some of them, not being able to procure any others; as there was no market in this village. Our hut, which was very narrow and low, scarcely afforded room for us and our luggage. However, I was obliged to pass the night in it.
My new companions clubbed to buy a goat. I gave seventy cowries for my share, and unfortunately I could not eat it, the meat being hard and badly cooked. An hour or two after supper, the negroes fell to eating the head half roasted on the ashes; and after they had gnawed the bones they gave them to the slaves.
The want of a market renders this place extremely dull. Its long, crooked streets are very dirty, and contain pools of filthy water, through which we were obliged to wade mid-leg deep in mud. Around these pools the inhabitants grow herbs for their sauces. My supper, consisting of the liquor in which the goat was boiled, helped to recruit my strength, exhausted by travelling every day without intermission.
At seven o’clock in the morning of the 7th of February, we left Chesso, taking a N.E. direction. The soil was level and covered with ferruginous stones and gravel. The vegetation was similar to that which I observed on the preceding days, but I also saw some specimens of the rhamnus lotus. We continued our journey over a grey sandy soil, producing millet and various other things. A fresh breeze blew from the north, and I should have been glad to warm myself, my clothing being but slight and falling in tatters about me.
We arrived about nine in the morning at Pala, where we halted for the rest of the day. This little village has a well stocked market. I perceived in the neighbourhood many furnaces for smelting iron, which is found on the surface of the soil. I saw also the implement employed in the cultivation of the soil, the only one, I believe, with which these people are acquainted, for I saw no other. It is a hoe, a foot long and eight inches broad. The handle, which is about sixteen inches in length, slants very much. In reaping they make use of a sickle without teeth, as at Wassoulo.
At eight o’clock, on the morning of the 8th of February, we left Pala, and proceeded to the N.E. over a soil composed of white hard sand. The country is very open, but here and there are to be seen many mimosas and cés. The cé, which, as I have before stated, furnishes abundance of butter, grows spontaneously throughout the interior of Africa. It would thrive admirably in our American colonies, where its introduction would be a great service to humanity. To the inhabitants of those regions the gift of this useful plant would be more valuable than a mine of gold. It was nine o’clock in the morning when we arrived at Maconeau, a pretty village, containing from three to four hundred inhabitants, and situated in a well cultivated plain. Near the village there is a low hill, extending from N.W. to S.E.
On the 9th of February, at six in the morning, we directed our course N.E. and proceeded about a mile ascending the hill where I saw many white calcareous stones. We descended by a very difficult road into a fine, firm sandy plain, along which we proceeded five miles. Although our daily journeys had not been very long, I was nevertheless greatly fatigued. If, at times, I sat down while hot under a tree to rest awhile, I was instantly chilled by a cool wind. These sudden transitions caused those frequent colds which I may rank among the greatest miseries I suffered during my travels. In sleeping in the huts I experienced a similar inconvenience. The large fires which the negroes are accustomed to make occasioned a suffocating heat, and the wind penetrating through a badly closed door, chilled me with cold; I sometimes coughed so much that I could not sleep, and sat up part of the night; I occasionally adopted the plan of sleeping out of doors, in order to enjoy a more equal temperature, but from this I found little relief. I was exceedingly ill, and so hoarse that it was necessary to come very close to me to hear me speak.
We met a caravan of traders coming from Jenné, where they had purchased salt; they had with them some horses, which they had also bought at that place. About nine o’clock in the morning we halted at Couara, a pretty village, where we found an abundance of all the necessaries of life. The inhabitants grow a great deal of cotton and millet, and are supplied with water from a stream which runs E.N.E., half a mile from the village.
At eight o’clock in the morning of the 10th of February we quitted Couara, and crossed the river called Koraba which delayed us at least three hours. This river is narrow and deep, and its banks, which are very high and well wooded, are composed of a red argillaceous earth, mixed with sand, gravel, and fragments of rock. The current is very rapid. The Koraba makes great ravages during its inundations, sweeping away masses of earth, and enlarging its bed; in return for these encroachments, however, it fertilises the country. This river comes from the south and flows rapidly from N.E. to east; on its right bank there is a chain of hills extending from south to E.N.E. The natives and the Mandingo merchants assured me that this river passes Kayaye, a considerable town, where a well frequented market is held, five days’ journey N.N.W. of Couara, and that it falls into the Dhioliba in the neighbourhood of Ségo. The Koraba is navigable for vessels of from sixty to eighty tons; in the part which we crossed it was ten feet deep, and from fifty to sixty fathoms wide. It is called by some the Couaraba; several women from the village had stationed themselves on the bank of the river, to sell maumies. I bought some for my breakfast. We had two canoes to cross the river; the boatmen were very hard in their demands upon us; they made us pay in advance, and counted their cowries two or three times over, to be assured that we had not deceived them. I was impatient at this delay. The asses also gave us infinite trouble; it was necessary to make them swim over, for the canoes were too small to receive them; when they got into the middle of the river, these animals turned and would have gone back to the bank which they had just left. At length, one of the negroes, whose patience was worn out, put cords round the necks of the asses, and fastening the other end round his own waist, swam across, whilst the other Mandingoes, who were behind, beat the animals and thus forced them on. We reached the right bank without experiencing any other difficulty. I asked a Mandingo negress to give me some water in a calabash, and she was good enough to add a little millet-flour to it. It was near noon when we left the bank of the river and proceeded towards the N.E. over a clayey soil. The country in general was very open. I perceived some nauclea Africana. The soil is covered with ferruginous stones, and in every direction are to be seen hills of no great height, most of which extend from N.W. to east and are covered with cés, at least those which I saw. About half past two in the afternoon, having proceeded four miles and a half, we halted at Douasso a village shaded by numerous baobabs and bombaces. The wells, which were between twelve and fourteen feet deep, afforded clean and pleasant water.
The surrounding country is very level and covered with nédés. Part of our caravan remained at Couara, not being able to cross the river that day. We were to wait for them at this village. I visited the market, which I found supplied with fish, fresh and dried, a great deal of millet, some rice, pistachios, maumies, and plenty of cotton. The women of our caravan obtained some colat-nuts from their husbands, to purchase this last article. They spin it, and, as I said before, whatever profit it produces, is their own. I saw some persons weaving under trees. In the evening our host presented us with a fowl, some pistachios, and a fresh fish of the carp kind, which is very common in the marshes: to catch it, the natives use a basket made of the branches of a tree. My old guide, whose name was Kai-mou, returned thanks for the present by a long prayer, and after assuring our host that he would go to Mahomet’s paradise, he gave him eight colat-nuts, valued in that country at forty-eight cowries.
After supper I took my seat on a sheep-skin in the court, to enjoy the cool air. Here we saw a Mandingo merchant, a native of Kong, who was returning from Jenné to trade in salt. He was alone, and carried his merchandise on his head. I entered into conversation with him, and obtained all the information I could respecting his country. He told me that Kong, his native place, was a large town, the capital of a district, inhabited by Mahometan Mandingoes. From Douasso, where we were, he said it would take him a month and a half to travel to Kong, with his load on his head. I asked him in what direction his country lay, and he several times pointed to the S.S.E. and S. ¼ S.E. I had a pocket compass, which I was afraid to make use of, except when alone. Had it been seen, it would probably have brought me into trouble. In order to ascertain as correctly as I could the situation of Kong, as described by the Mandingo, I remarked attentively the place where he sat, and fixed upon an object near the point of the horizon, which he had indicated. Next morning, without being seen by any person, I satisfied myself of its situation. The merchant told me that, on his return, he should leave Tangrera on his left, and pass through a great trading village, inhabited as he said, by Mandingoes, and a month’s journey from Douasso; he called it Dierisso. From that place he said it would take fifteen days to reach Kong. He likewise told me that the soil of his country was level and sandy; but very productive in millet, rice, yams, cassava, giraumons, cés, nédés, baobabs, and other useful trees and plants, and that his countrymen were rich in oxen, sheep, goats, and poultry. They have also horses, which must be a small breed, for he compared them with those of the country in which we were.
I learned from my informant, that a market is held every day in the town of Kong. The country is watered by numerous small streams, but it contains no rivers. The people grow a great quantity of cotton, of which they manufacture beautiful cloth, highly esteemed in trade. There are no gold-mines in Kong. Gold is brought thither from Baunan, which is fifteen days’ journey further south.
Baunan produces colat-nuts and a great quantity of gold, which the inhabitants exchange for salt and cloth. The soil of Baunan, although fertile and hilly, is uncultivated. The inhabitants, who employ themselves in working the mines, obtain provisions from their neighbours. The Kong trader told me that he had been many times at Baunan, and that beyond Kong there were no Bambara negroes; the people had, indeed, curly hair, but they spoke a different language. They are all idolaters, and do not travel, having markets of their own. The Mandingo merchants trade in Baunan, and go in caravans to Jenné, taking with them gold, colat-nuts, allspice, and long pepper. The negro, from whom I learned these particulars, told me that there were at that time many traders of his country at Jenné, and that I might, perhaps, see them. From Kong, caravans of pilgrims sometimes go to Mecca. The Baunan country, to which this negro alluded, is most probably the Tauman, which I heard mentioned by the good old woman at Timé.
On the 11th of February, as we were still sojourning at Douasso, awaiting the arrival of a party of our companions, who remained behind, I thought I would make an observation, at least approximatively, of the meridian altitude of the sun, by measuring a shadow at noon. For this purpose, I stationed myself near a large baobab, at a little distance from the village, in order to escape notice; but, notwithstanding this precaution, I had nearly involved myself in a serious scrape. Owing to the peculiarity of my colour, I was immediately missed from among my companions; I was sought for and discovered under the tree: as I was rising to look at the road, I perceived at a little distance some women, who walked round me to watch me; on seeing me writing they ran to inform the men, who thought themselves all lost, imagining that I was a sorcerer, and had bewitched their village; they assembled in great numbers, and made a great disturbance, desiring my guide to prohibit me from writing any more. I confess that I was not quite at ease as to the consequences of this affair. Some persons came to me and declared, in an authoritative tone, that I must relinquish my magical operations; they even shook me by the shoulders, and used threats to me. I had foreseen that, if observed, I should excite suspicion, and accordingly took the precaution of writing on the ground where I was making my observation the sacred words, Bism’ Allah erralmân errahym (in the name of the merciful and forgiving God); but the ignorant Bambaras could not read writing. Fortunately, I had finished my observation when this unpleasant scene occurred. The people gathered round me, and asked me what I had been doing: I told them I had been making an amulet, which was a safeguard against all sorts of illness, and my guide heartily seconded this evasion. At length they appeared satisfied; some begged me to write similar grigris for them; and, had I complied with the requests of all, I might have continued at work all day. I gave to two Bambaras a little bit of paper, on which I had written some Arabic characters: they appeared much pleased with the present, and wrapped it up very carefully in a bit of dirty rag. On returning to my hut, it was some time before I entirely recovered from the agitation into which I had been thrown. Old Kai-mou, my guide, asked me why I had remained so long under the tree: he told me that I had exposed myself to danger, for the Bambaras were not well disposed people; that I must be on my guard with them, and, in future, if I wished to write, I must remain in my hut; as for himself, he was fully persuaded that I had been writing grigris. In the evening our company arrived.
On the 12th of February, at six o’clock in the morning, we left the superstitious inhabitants of Douasso, and proceeded northward over a tolerably level soil, covered in some places with ferruginous stones and gravel.
We proceeded four miles and a half in this same direction. As we advanced the soil became sandy and well cultivated. The country was generally open, yet there were some cés and nédés, rhamnus lotus, and nauclea. We met a numerous caravan from Jenné, laden with salt. This caravan was composed of about two hundred men, sixty women, and twenty-five asses. About nine o’clock in the morning we halted at Sanasso. From Toumané to Jenné wood is so scarce, that the greater part of the inhabitants burn millet-stubble. Sanasso is shaded by bombaces and baobabs. Like all Bambara villages in this region, it is built of bricks baked in the sun. The houses have only a ground-floor: they are very dirty, and surrounded with walls.
On the 13th of February, at six o’clock in the morning, we proceeded on our journey, in a direction N.N.E. After advancing six miles, we crossed an extensive dry marsh. The country was even more open than that through which we had passed on the preceding day. The soil, which was level, consisted of grey and very hard sand. About nine o’clock in the morning, we stopped at Garo, a large village, containing from eight to nine hundred inhabitants. It is situated in a beautiful plain, fertile in cotton and millet. Round the huts tobacco is cultivated. A great market is held at this place.
At six o’clock in the morning of the 14th of February, we proceeded northward, and journeyed four miles over the same kind of soil as on the preceding day. About eight o’clock we halted at the village of Béré, the environs of which are covered with cés and nédés. I observed a great deal of ferruginous stone on the surface of the soil. Here are several furnaces for smelting iron. We lodged with a smelter, who explained to me the process which he employed in his business. The stones containing particles of iron are first broken with a large hammer. They are then put into a furnace, having a fire both above and below. These furnaces are constructed like those in Fouta-Dhialon, which I have already described. The iron, when melted, is run into a convenient form, and carried to Jenné to be exchanged for salt. The forges are constructed like those of Senegal; but the smiths of Béré have not so many tools. Their bellows are made of two sheep or kid skins; they have a very small anvil and two large hammers. They use charcoal, although it is very scarce. The forges are in a long and narrow building, rudely constructed, having seven doors opening to the west. At Béré I disposed of some glass trinkets. The poor Bambaras seemed quite enchanted with the beauty of the things which I exhibited; I took care, however, to shew them very little.
At six o’clock in the morning of the 15th of February, we set out in the direction of N.N.E. and proceeded five miles over a soil similar to that observed on the preceding day. About nine o’clock we halted at Nibakhasso, a village containing from six to seven hundred inhabitants, and having a well stocked market. The people were celebrating a festival, and amusing themselves by singing and dancing. The old men were assembled round great calabashes filled with beer, drinking, singing, and smoking. Some musicians helped to enliven the scene. A very fat dog was killed for the occasion, and broiled with the skin on. Although it was almost raw, the owner speedily disposed of it: each person bought a small piece for five or ten cowries, devoured it greedily, and washed it down with a draught of beer. The flesh was of a reddish colour, but looked very well; and I dare say it was much better than that of the camel which I was afterwards obliged to eat in the desert. Our Mandingoes exhibited their stock of nuts, and sold some of them to the merry Bambaras. I also disposed of those which I brought from Tangrera, and which they bought in preference. There are people in this country who make beer and sell it retail. I had a great wish to taste it, but my character of Musulman rendered that impossible. On holidays, these dealers in beer station themselves at the scene of festivity, and are soon surrounded by the lovers of this liquor, which they sell in small calabashes. I observed that they looked very sharply after their payment, and refused to serve those who had no money. In the evening, the inhabitants of the place were almost all intoxicated. They brought out about twelve or fifteen horses, and made them prance about to the sound of drums. The young people danced all night. Old Kai-mou, my guide, was so extravagant as to buy a large fowl for supper, and I gave him salt to season the sauce. We made an excellent meal.
At six o’clock in the morning of the 16th of February, we again set forth, and proceeded four miles in a N.N.E. direction. The soil was composed of sand and gravel, and the vegetation consisted of numerous cés and nédés, some mimosas, wild figs, rhamnus lotus, and bombaces. At eleven o’clock in the morning, we arrived at Wattouro. We met a caravan of traders returning from Jenné. They informed us that the war between Ségo and that town interrupted all communication, and that the Moorish traders were afraid to go to Sansanding on account of this war. They also told us that colat-nuts fetched no price at Jenné. The market at Wattouro, which was in the shade of some bombaces, was well supplied with dried fish, millet, a little rice, and butcher’s meat.