Trees and Shrubs for English Gardens

TALL EVERGREEN SHRUBS IN A FLOWER BORDER.

If shrubbery edges were planned with a view to good effect both far and near, what capital companies of plants could be put together. As one such example, let us suppose a cool spot, with peaty or light vegetable soil, planted in the front with Skimmia and hardy Ferns, Funkia grandiflora, and Lilium rubellum. A little farther back would come Lilium Brownii, then a group of Kalmias and Lilium auratum. One carefully-planted scheme such as this would lead to others of the same class, so that the quantities of grand shrubs and plants that are only waiting to be well used would be made into lovely pictures, instead of being planted in the usual unthinking fashion, which is without definite aim, and therefore cannot possibly make any good effect.

We do not, as a rule, plant upright-growing Conifers of the Juniper and Cypress class in our flower borders, and yet the illustration shows how this may be done with the very happiest effect. Probably in this case the trees were there already, and the flower border was wanted, and therefore was made in circumstances that would not have been specially arranged at the outset. But it has been done with rare intelligence and sympathy, and the result is excellent. Here also is seen the best kind of edge treatment, for the grass is either cut with the scythe or the plants at the edge are lifted with a stick as the machine runs along, so that the usual pitiless machine edge is not seen, and the plants at the side bush out over the grass just as they should do. This is a thing that is rarely seen well done in gardens.

CHAPTER XXXII

On the other hand, Beech, Elm, Lime, and Sycamore are more surface-rooting, and their roots often get entangled with and gradually kill plants growing near them. Beech and Elm are the greatest offenders, and grass frequently perishes under these trees. A few liberal soakings of water in dry weather are beneficial to shrubs or anything else under trees, but the soakings must be thorough, as mere sprinkles are more harmful than otherwise. The spread of large tree branches should also be noticed in summer, as sometimes one or two of the lower ones may be removed with benefit to the shrubs, judicious cutting away letting in light and air.

The best of the larger growing evergreens to use under trees are Laurels, both common and Portugal, Yews, Box, Osmanthus, Aucubas, Phillyræas, common and oval-leaved Privet, Ligustrum sinense, and Rhododendron ponticum. Of these Yews, Box, and Osmanthus are perhaps as successful as any. The Osmanthus is not usually considered suitable for this purpose, but it succeeds well in the shade, and keeps a good dark-green colour. Hollies are sometimes recommended, but, though they may occasionally thrive under trees, it is not advisable to use many of them, as they are more often a failure, becoming thin and straggling in the course of a year or two. Of dwarf-growing evergreens Berberis Aquifolium, Butcher's Broom (Ruscus aculeatus and R. Hypoglossum), Cotoneaster microphylla, Euonymus japonicus, and E. radicans, with their respective varieties, Skimmias, Gaultheria Shallon, Ivies, especially the common English, Irish Ivy, and Emerald green, Pernettya mucronata, St. John's Wort (Hypericum calycinum), and Vincas can all be recommended, as they all do well in the shade, and most of them will flower freely.

For a very dry spot where nothing else will grow the Butcher's Broom and St. John's Wort should be planted, as both will grow and thrive where other plants die. With deciduous shrubs under trees the difficulty is not so much in getting them to live as in coaxing them to flower, but a few of them will do well in the shade, and, as a rule, bloom freely. Of these the best are the common and White Brooms, Azalea pontica, Genista virgata, Philadelphus, Forsythias, and Daphne Mezereum. The shrubby Spiræas may also be used sparingly in a fairly light and open place, though plenty of sun is required as a rule to enable them to flower properly. In addition, though their flowers are insignificant, Cornus alba with its red stems in winter, the Snowberry (Symphoricarpus racemosus), which is laden every year with white berries long after the leaves have fallen.

The question about shrubs growing under trees is so frequently asked that the names of those most successful are given, but generally the beauty of the tree is lost when smothered up with evergreens and other shrubs beneath its spreading branches. A tree is a picture in itself, and it is pleasant to see the grass creep to the branch edge and then cease, leaving a brown earth patch under the canopy of foliage.

Shepherdi Holly, Tree Ivies, and Berberis stenophylla, it may be mentioned, are a success under trees.

CHAPTER XXXIII

Shrubs for flowering under glass are grown in large quantities by the English nurserymen, and very beautiful they are when in flower, bringing the beauty of early summer to the opening days of spring. Many grow their plants in pots, the general method being what may be regarded as a modification of pot culture and planting out, that is to say, although the plants are potted, and that in fairly large pots, they are plunged in the open ground over the rim of the pot, and in a position fully exposed to air and sunshine. Although a few roots may be pushed out over the rim, and also through the hole in the bottom, this treatment has the effect of keeping them far more compact than would otherwise be the case, hence the check of removal is not so great as if they have unlimited room. This partial confinement of the roots checks a too luxuriant growth and promotes flower-bud formation.

In the cultivation of shrubs for this purpose, whether they are confined in pots or planted out, choose an open, well-exposed position, carefully guarding against overcrowding, as this tends to leaves instead of flowers. With the same object, they must be kept free from weeds, and not allowed to suffer from drought.

With few exceptions, the best time to lift and pot the plants is as soon as possible after the leaves have fallen in the autumn. When done at this time the young roots recover from the check, and get hold of the new soil before the flowering season. The pots must be plunged in leaves, spent hops, or cocoa-nut refuse, to keep them in an even condition of moisture, and after potting never allow the roots to suffer through dryness. Whether intended for very early flowering or later on, the plants should at first only be taken into a comparatively cool structure, and, if necessary, brought to a greater heat by degrees, and the lower the temperature, say about 55 degrees, the more beautiful the flower colouring; while, when they are only required in bloom a little before the natural season, mere protection from sharp frosts and keen winds is alone essential. The advantage of early potting is shown conspicuously in the case of Azaleas. The flowers produced by plants that have been potted soon after the leaves have fallen will remain twice as long in beauty as on those not potted until after Christmas.

In a general way, plants that have been forced hard to get them into flower early cannot be depended upon to bloom satisfactorily the following season, no matter how carefully they may have been treated, but those merely brought into bloom a little in advance of those out of doors will undergo the same ordeal next year. Too often, when the flowers are over, the shrubs are put away in some corner and forgotten, and the result is injured leaves and general upset. Shrubs so treated cannot perform their duties in the year following. Shrubs that have finished flowering under glass before the time of frost and cold winds is past should be at first carefully protected and gradually hardened off. Where a cool house is not available, a frame in a sheltered position is suitable, but even then avoid overcrowding. By the middle of May this precaution is not so necessary, although keen frosts and winds are experienced that would injure foliage developed under glass. Where potting is necessary, that is, in the case of plants grown permanently in this way, it should be done before they are placed in their summer quarters. For this the pots should, if possible, be placed on a firm bed of ashes and plunged in some moisture-holding material, such as partially decayed leaves, spent hops, or cocoa-nut fibre refuse. Occasional doses of liquid manure during the growing season are beneficial, particularly in the case of shrubs that have not been re-potted, as the limited amount of nourishment in the soil will have gone by that time.

The following is a list of the best shrubs for flowering under glass:—

Andromeda (known also as Pieris and Zenobia).—The Andromedas are beautiful shrubs, with lily-of-the-valley-like flowers, and form such a mass of fibrous roots that they can be lifted from the open ground and potted without receiving any check. When placed in a cool house they flower profusely. The best are A. floribunda, which has crowded, somewhat stiff spikes; A. japonica, known by its drooping racemes; and A. speciosa pulverulenta, which has hoary leaves and waxy-white bells. The first two may be had in flower by the end of March, but the other is later.

Azalea.—One of the useful classes of shrubs that we have for this purpose, quite as valuable for hard forcing as for flowering later in spring. Although the formation of the roots is dense and wig-like, they are, as already stated, all the better for being potted early, while they may be permanently grown in pots in a satisfactory way. The Chinese A. sinensis, or mollis, as it is more popularly called, is of close and compact growth, with massive clusters of large flowers, varying in colour from pale yellow to deep orange salmon, and innumerable tints and shades. Among the most beautiful are Alphonse Lavallé, bright orange; Anthony Koster, deep yellow; Dr. Pasteur, orange red; General Vetten, orange; Hugo Koster, salmon red; and J. J. de Vink, soft rose. The varieties grouped under the head of Ghent Azaleas are very beautiful, and quite as suitable for forcing as the preceding. The individual flowers are smaller, but they are borne in such profusion that the whole plant is a mound of blossom. The colour varies from white, through all shades of yellow, orange, pink, rose, and scarlet, to bright crimson, so that plenty of variety is available, and some forms have double flowers. These are not so showy as the single Azaleas. Azaleas, when planted out, require a certain amount of peat or other vegetable matter in the soil, and this is even more important when they are grown in pots. A suitable compost consists of equal parts of loam, leaf-mould, and peat, with half a part of sand. Very little pruning is needful, and this to consist only of shortening an occasional shoot that threatens to upset the balance of the plant, and thinning wiry and exhausted growths; but remove seed pods directly the flowers are over, as these are a drain upon the plant's strength.

Berberis.—Few Berberises are of much account for greenhouse decoration, the best being the orange-flowered B. Darwinii and the rich yellow B. stenophylla. They will not flower well if forced hard, but in a cool house, with very little heat, they are very charming. A successful grower of shrubs under glass writes: "I knew of some bushes of B. stenophylla that had been treated in this way for five years, and little trouble was taken with them, yet they were so beautiful as to be much admired every year. After flowering, the weakly growths were cut out and the pots plunged in the open ground. Manure water was occasionally given, and with this treatment they did well."

Carpenteria californica.—This evergreen shrub, even in the south of England, is all the better for slight protection, and it is delightful in the almost cold house, the white flowers, reminding one of those of the Japanese anemone, appearing about May. It is a very beautiful shrub.

Caryopteris Mastacanthus.—This Chinese shrub will bloom freely in light and warm soils, bearing lavender blue flowers in profusion during the autumn; indeed, so late that when cold and wet weather occurs they often fail to expand at all. This difficulty is overcome when the plants are grown in pots and taken into the greenhouse for the flowers to open; it is then very pretty and much liked. After flowering, the shoots generally die back almost to the ground, but break up with renewed vigour in spring.

Ceanothus.—Some of the early-flowering Ceanothuses are very valuable; they may be grown in pots, and their flowers are of pleasing blue colouring, which is unusual and therefore welcome. Among the best for this purpose are C. dentatus, C. papillosus, and C. veitchianus. Ceanothuses do not transplant very well, and if intended for flowering in pots should be lifted in the autumn, potted carefully, and wintered in a cool house. They may be kept altogether in pots, giving them much the same attention during summer as Berberis stenophylla.

Cercis Siliquastrum.—This is the Judas tree, and as many know, while the leaves are still absent the stems bear clusters of rosy-purple flowers. It may be lifted and potted in the autumn or kept altogether in pots, but on no account indulge in hard forcing, as it resents this treatment. Well-grown specimens are very pretty when in flower in late March.

Chionanthus.—There are two species of Chionanthus, viz. the North American Fringe tree (C. virginica) and its Japanese representative C. retusus. They resemble each other very much, but the American form is the better of the two. The Fringe trees are very charming when in pots. Prune back hard after flowering and fully expose to the sun to ensure plenty of flower buds. A moist soil is essential.

Mexican Orange Flower (Choisya ternata). This will bear its white fragrant flower clusters in March in a greenhouse, and a succession is maintained for some time. It is most satisfactory when grown altogether in pots and plunged outside during the summer.

Clematises.—Of late years the various forms of Clematis have been grown largely under glass and used for various purposes, not only in the shape of large specimens, but in pots five inches in diameter, the plant being secured to a single stake and carrying several big showy flowers. Two somewhat new continental varieties, Marcel Moser and Nelly Moser, have proved very useful for this treatment. The plants flowered in small pots are those that are propagated in the preceding spring and plunged out of doors during the summer. The Himalayan C. montana that flowers naturally so early in the season readily responds to a little heat, and in the greenhouse in spring it is almost as welcome as the New Zealand C. indivisa.

Clethra.—Although C. alnifolia does not flower until the autumn it may be had in bloom in spring. Of course, it will not be so early as shrubs that are naturally in beauty in the spring, but in May its white, fragrant flowers should be seen. It requires a cool, moist soil and sunshine, while prune moderately immediately after flowering. Lifted in the autumn soon after the leaves drop, it will succeed well.

Corylopsis spicata.—This reminds one of a small Hazel bush, and in early spring before the leaves appear, the drooping clusters of fragrant yellow flowers appear in profusion; simple protection is all that is needed to get flowers quite early in the year, when it is very pretty in the greenhouse. It thrives well kept permanently in pots, or it may be lifted and potted in the autumn. No pruning is necessary.

Cytisus (Broom).—The various Brooms are much admired, whether in the open ground or under glass, and for the latter purpose they must be established in pots, for their roots are few, descend deeply, and therefore transplanting is difficult. They will not bear hard forcing, but in a greenhouse may be had in flower by the end of March, or soon after. If kept altogether in pots, cut them hard back after flowering to encourage vigorous shoots for another year. Numerous sorts may be grown in pots, particularly the Spanish Broom (C. albus), the common Broom (C. scoparius), with the hybrid Andreanus and the sulphur-coloured C. præcox.

Deutzia.—The pretty D. gracilis is well known as one of the best of all shrubs for early forcing, and the whole family is of great interest as pot plants and out of doors. Of these smaller Deutzias some beautiful hybrids have been raised, particularly D. Lemoinei, D. hybrida venusta, and D. kalmæflora, all of which may be forced almost, if not quite, as readily as D. gracilis. The old and exhausted shoots of these Deutzias should, if the shrubs are kept in pots, be cut away to allow young and vigorous ones to develop. Though they may be had in flower early, they are much appreciated in the greenhouse, even as late as the month of May. The larger growing D. crenata, with its numerous varieties, Candidissima flore-pleno, Wellsii, and Watererii will not bear hard forcing, but can be had in flower with little trouble in April and May. Good, well-ripened bushes may be lifted in the autumn, and if potted and carefully attended to they will flower well the following spring.

Diervilla (Weigela).—Many of the Bush Honeysuckles, as the Weigelas are called, will flower well in a cool house, but they do not last sufficiently long in bloom to make them of great value for this purpose. The best is the dark-coloured Eva Rathke, which grows naturally into a neat bush; the flowers are of claret colouring.

Heaths.—Erica carnea is very pretty in a cool house in mid-winter, all that is needed being to lift the clumps from the open ground, pot, and keep watered; while the large-growing Portuguese Heath, E. lusitanica, which flowers naturally in February in the open ground, when the weather is not too severe, well repays glass protection at that season.

Forsythia.—The Forsythias flower in the open ground by the month of March, and indoors, of course, much earlier. The most effective is F. suspensa, which is naturally a climber, or, at all events, of loose and rambling growth. When needed for pots, tie the principal shoots to a stout stake, and let the smaller branches grow at will, the result being a fountain of yellow flowers. After flowering in the greenhouse, cut back the shoots hard, leaving only an eye or two at the base. These eyes will break up and produce flowering shoots for another year. By this method of treatment the same plants may be kept for many years, provided they are carefully attended to and given occasional doses of liquid manure during the summer.

Hydrangea.—The many varieties of the common Hydrangea are all valuable for the greenhouse, particularly Cyanoclada, Mariesii, Rosea, Stellata, and Thomas Hogg. To obtain small flowering plants the cuttings are struck in spring or early summer, grown on freely for a time, and well ripened by full exposure to air and sunshine before autumn. Plants grown in this way readily respond to a little heat in the spring. Larger specimens, too, may be brought on in the same way. The Japanese H. paniculata grandiflora needs quite different treatment, the plants being generally grown in the open ground, from whence they are lifted and potted in the autumn. Before potting prune the long, wand-like shoots back hard, leaving only about two eyes at the base. By so doing the plants are kept dwarfer, and the flower heads are larger than if no pruning were done. By some the Hydrangea is grown as a standard, and is very effective when in beauty.

Itea virginica.—A neat little bush, about a yard high, with dense spikes of white flowers. It needs a sunny spot in a cool and moist soil, and under these conditions will flower freely if carefully lifted in the autumn and potted. It must not suffer from dryness afterwards. No pruning is necessary.

Jamesia americana.—A pretty little white-flowered shrub from the Rocky Mountains. It will bloom freely under glass, but must not be forced hard; it may be treated in the same way as the Itea.

Kalmia.—All the Kalmias are good pot shrubs. The roots are dense and wig-like, reminding one of those of a Rhododendron, so that well-budded plants can be lifted in the autumn and potted without risk. They must be brought on gradually in a cool house, and never suffer from want of water. The earliest to bloom is K. glauca, followed by K. angustifolia, while later on there is the largest and best-known species, K. latifolia, the Mountain Laurel of the United States, which has pretty pink flower clusters.

Kerria japonica (the Jews' Mallow).—The single Kerria is a twiggy bush, with bright yellow flowers, like those of a single Rose, and expand quickly in spring. The major form of the double Kerria is much better than the ordinary one; they can be potted in autumn or grown permanently in pots. After the flowering season is over the double variety can be spurred back hard to prevent a tall weakly growth.

Laburnum.—This has long been used for the greenhouse, and very effective it is when well flowered. It is as a rule most successful when in large pots, in the shape of a standard. Prune back moderately after flowering.

Lonicera (Honeysuckle).—As L. fragrantissima flowers naturally out of doors soon after Christmas when the weather is mild, it is evident that no forcing is needed to obtain it at that season, and in a cool greenhouse the little white flowers are remarkable for their delicious perfume. As spring advances the early Dutch may be flowered under glass, while the scarlet Honeysuckle (L. sempervirens minor) is a delightful greenhouse plant, not used so much as it deserves to be for rafters and similar purposes in the greenhouse.

Loropetalum chinense.—This Chinese shrub, with its long, pure white, strap-shaped petals, bears much resemblance to the Chionanthus, and is quite as desirable for flowering in pots. It may be either lifted in the autumn or grown altogether in pots.

Magnolia.—The Magnolias can be grown under glass. If allowed to come gradually into bloom in a greenhouse the large flowers will open freely. As a rule they transplant badly, and for that reason, at least the choicer ones, are kept in pots for convenience in removal. From this it will be understood that as a rule it is more satisfactory to keep them permanently in pots than to lift them in the autumn. M. purpurea can be grown more easily than any of the others in this form. When grown in pots for the greenhouse, if they get too large for that structure they may be planted permanently out of doors and their place taken by smaller plants. Of those particularly valuable for this treatment are the little M. stellata, a charming shrub; M. Lenné, which has massive chalice-like flowers, rosy-purple outside; M. conspicua, M. soulangeana, and M. purpurea among the early Magnolias; and of those that flower later the Japanese M. parviflora and M. Watsoni do well in pots.

Olearia.—The best known of the Daisy trees of New Zealand is O. Haastii, which flowers freely in August. One at least of the species blooms naturally much earlier, namely O. stellulata (O. gunniana), and very pretty it is under cover and with its daisy-like blossom. To be seen at their best, grow them altogether in pots and give the protection of a cool house in winter.

Tree Pæonies.—The magnificent varieties of the Tree Pæony that have appeared in recent years have led to a great increase in their culture. Though hardy in many places, their young leaves and flowers are frequently injured by late frosts, hence they are often flowered under glass. In this way they make a gorgeous display in the greenhouse, which is sufficiently warm for them in all stages. If forcing is attempted they are quickly spoilt. They must be potted in good loamy soil, and are most satisfactory when grown altogether in pots, as many of the long fleshy roots will be injured in digging up established plants.

Pernettya mucronata.—Though grown chiefly for its ornamental berries, neat little bushes are very pleasing in the greenhouse when thickly studded with little white lily-of-the-valley-like flowers, so pretty against the dark-green colouring of the leaves. The treatment recommended for Kalmias is suitable for the Pernettyas. The fruits are very charming.

Philadelphus (Mock Orange).—This in its several forms may be lifted in the autumn and flowered well the following spring, not early, as the forcing must be very gentle. Even then the perfume of P. coronarius is too powerful to be pleasant in a confined space. This objection cannot, however, be urged against M. Lemoine's hybrids between this species and the pretty little Mexican P. microphyllus, which has a fragrance like that of ripe apples. These newer hybrids—Avalanche, Boule d'Argent, Gerbe de Neige, Manteau d'Hermine, Mont Blanc, and Lemoinei—are all worth a place either in the open ground or for flowering in pots.

Prunus.—Several classes that were at one time considered as separate genera are now included in the genus Prunus, which was formerly limited to the Plum family. Now the Cherries, Almonds, and Peaches are only sections of the genus Prunus, as explained elsewhere in this book, but as they are better known under their respective names it will be wiser to refer to them thus. The Cherries (Cerasus) have been added to considerably of recent years, several varieties having come from Japan, mostly of P. (Cerasus) pseudo-cerasus. These, which include such varieties as Sieboldi, Watereri, and J. H. Veitch, all flower freely when quite small, an important point when considering plants needed for flowering under glass. Where larger plants are required the double form of the Wild Cherry (P. Avium) is very beautiful. The Almonds flower early naturally, and under glass, of course, earlier still; the variety purpurea is one of the best, while a distinct species, P. (Amygdalus) davidiana and its variety alba, are also suitable for growing under glass. The Peaches (Persica) form a delightful group, all available for flowering under glass; indeed, they respond readily to gentle forcing, hence may be had in bloom by March. There are several varieties, the flowers ranging in colour from white, through pink, to crimson, and double as well as single. One of the finest forms is magnifica, a Japanese variety, semi-double, and brilliant carmine crimson in colour. The purple-leaved Peach is very charming.

Of the true Plums, special mention must be made of the dark-leaved variety of the Cherry Plum, known as Prunus Pissardi, of the pretty little P. japonica alba plena, and japonica rosea plena, more generally known in gardens as P. sinensis, which has slender shoots, wreathed for the greater part of their length with double rosette-like flowers, and the charming pink semi-double P. triloba. All these forms of Prunus will, if they have been regularly transplanted, lift well in the autumn and flower without a check. They are also quite satisfactory if kept altogether in pots when spurred back after flowering and encouraged to make free and well-ripened growth during the summer months, when they should be plunged out of doors in a sunny spot.

Pyrus.—The very beautiful P. floribunda is quite happy under this treatment, and P. or Cydonia japonica (the Japanese Quince) that flowers early in the year is pretty under glass, especially the distinct P. Maulei, which is of dense and compact growth, and bears salmon-red flowers in profusion. Grow the Pyruses in a similar way to the Prunuses.

Raphiolepis japonica (R. ovata).—An evergreen of sturdy growth, and about 3 feet high, with terminal spikes of pure white hawthorn-like flowers. It is decidedly uncommon and ornamental when in bloom. Out of doors its season is June, but, of course, is earlier under glass.

Rhododendron.—These are the most gorgeous of shrubs, and largely used for flowering in pots or tubs. They form a dense mat of fibres, and can therefore be lifted with little check. Owing to this they can, when ordinary care is used, be transferred to new quarters without losing a leaf, not only when potted, but also when planted out in the open ground. Hard forcing must be avoided, but the Rhododendrons may be brought on gradually in gentle heat. Under this treatment they must be well supplied with water, and liberal syringing is also beneficial. The wide range of colouring in the Rhododendron family gives an opportunity for getting almost any shade desired.

Rhodotypus kerrioides.—A beautiful Japanese shrub, reminding one of a Kerria, but the flowers are white. It will succeed with the same treatment as the Kerria requires.

Ribes (Flowering Currant).—Both the yellow-flowered R. aureum and the various forms of R. sanguineum can be brought into flower early under glass, but the flowers do not last long, and for this reason the shrubs are little used for the purpose.

Spiræas.—An extensive family, some of which bloom delightfully when lifted and potted in the autumn and brought into flower in gentle heat. They may also be grown permanently in pots, but as a rule autumn potting is preferable. The most popular is S. confusa or media, but also very charming are S. arguta, one of the most beautiful of all Spiræas, S. Van Houttei, S. Thunbergi, and S. prunifolia fl. pl., which all bear white flowers, those of the last mentioned being double.

Staphylea (Bladder Nut).—S. colchica is most used for forcing, and is a charming shrub for the purpose. It quickly responds to heat and moisture. Brought on in a gentle greenhouse temperature, it gives a wealth of drooping clusters of white fragrant flowers. Keep the shrubs in pots, as the buds are produced more freely than when planting out is done, and after the flowers are over prune hard back. There is a hybrid between S. pinnata and S. colchica, called Columbieri, which is better than S. colchica.

Syringa (Lilac).—The Lilac is one of the most popular of shrubs for forcing, and may be had in bloom by Christmas or soon after, its flowers being welcome from then until they appear out of doors. Thousands of plants for flowering under glass are prepared in the most careful way every year, the neat bushes, about 2 feet high, having been grown in pots 7 or 8 inches across and plunged in the open ground. This treatment results in close and compact balls of soil, which, when turned out of the pots, retain their shape and bear the journey well. These plants are pruned hard back after flowering to keep them dwarf. Lilacs that have been frequently moved may be lifted and flowered without risk. Most of those sent from Holland consist of the white-flowered variety, Marie Legrange, but the dark-coloured Charles X. is also grown. The many double-flowered Lilacs are not so popular as the singles. It is a pure delight to smell the flowers of the Lilac long before they appear in the open garden; they are most welcome.

Viburnum.—When the plants are well budded the Laurustinus (V. Tinus) will flower throughout the winter in a greenhouse. Of those that are amenable to slight forcing the best are the common Guelder Rose (V. Opulus sterile), the Chinese V. plicatum, and V. macrocephalum. Treat them in the same way as the Lilac. The Guelder Rose is a delightful shrub under glass, with its wealth of ivory-white balls. It is one of the most interesting of all the things that can be brought into bloom in a greenhouse. Treat the Viburnums in the same way as recommended for the Lilacs.

Wistaria.—It is only within the past few years that the Wistaria has been used to any extent for flowering in this way, but now it is universally admired. At the exhibitions early in the year it always attracts more attention than any other shrub grown in a greenhouse; the soft lilac colouring of the flowers is very beautiful against the tender green of the expanding leaves. The best and general way is to grow it as a standard, as the racemes hang down in graceful profusion. W. sinensis is the Wistaria planted so freely against houses and pergolas, and for flowering under glass the variety alba may be mentioned; it is more satisfactory than in the open garden. W. multijuga, which has racemes of great length, may also be tried, but W. sinensis is as charming as any, and the most likely to give satisfaction. Wistarias transplant badly, hence in nurseries are usually kept in pots; therefore, for flowering under glass, permanent pot culture is the proper treatment. To obtain standards train up a single shoot till the required height is reached, then stop it, and encourage the formation of branches. When the head has reached flowering size, after the flowers are over, spur the shoots back to good eyes to keep the growth fairly compact.

Japanese Maples (Acer palmatum and varieties).—The handsome foliage of the Japanese Maples forms their chief charm. When grown under glass they are very beautiful, the leaves varying greatly both in colour and shape; some almost plain, others deeply cut and almost fringe-like.

CHAPTER XXXIV

The chief desire here has been to create autumn and winter effect, and Nature has been of slight assistance to the planter, as the land is not undulating but generally flat and uninteresting, consequently much thought and attention have been devoted to attaining the desired object. No two shrubs grown either for the beauty of their leaves or bark should be mixed together; the display is more pleasurable when they are kept apart.

Having determined on the sites to be planted, use white stakes for marking the outline, and plant boldly. The ground should be thoroughly trenched, and poor land well enriched with farmyard manure, and the planting proceeded with either in spring or early autumn. This planting will apply to dwarf-growing subjects. The deciduous section is dealt with first.

Aronia floribunda.—A delightful plant when grown as a bush, bearing sweetly-scented hawthorn-like flowers in May, very effective, and succeeded by a wealth of deep-purple berries in autumn. This should also receive an annual pruning during winter or early spring. Allow a distance of 2 feet 6 inches between the plants, which are well suited for any purpose. The ground should be kept clean underneath it.

Berberis Thunbergi.—Few deciduous shrubs can excel this for its beautiful foliage during autumn, and it deserves to be planted more extensively. In no position is it seen to better advantage than when in large masses over bold pieces of rock. The shrub should not be pruned, but allowed to retain its natural habit, and will succeed in almost any soil. No plant is better adapted for such positions.

Berberis vulgaris purpureis.—This has deep-purple foliage of a very pleasing shade, and it bears bright-scarlet berries in autumn, succeeds best on chalky soils, should be cut close to the ground every third winter, and the soil left undisturbed about the roots. B. v. foliis-purpureis is remarkable for its very dark purple leaves throughout the summer. Cut back every spring; it succeeds in poor ground. B. aristata is very distinct in winter; bark brownish-red. B. virescens is another charming winter shrub.

Colutea arborescens.—The Bladder Senna may be planted in the half-wild garden, and will succeed in almost any position and in any soil. Its yellow flowers in July are pretty, but the seed-vessels during winter are most effective; it should be pruned back hard annually. There are several varieties, each of which are equally well adapted for this purpose. Plant 3 feet apart.

Cornus sanguinea (Dogwood).—Few deciduous shrubs are more easily grown or more effective during winter than the Scarlet Dogwood. It may be grouped in any position either in the gardens or outside when of any extent, and when space is no object the beds or groups can hardly be too large. The foliage attains a beautiful bronze tint during autumn, but unfortunately soon falls. The position should be open, and it is absolutely essential that the growths be cut to the ground annually the first week in April, bearing in mind that it is only the young wood which puts on its brightly-coloured robe in winter, and the more intense the cold the better colour will be the wood. Plant 3 feet apart. Cornus sanguinea variegata is a beautiful silver variegated form of the above, but not so vigorous. It is very fine for summer decorations, and should be much more appreciated. Plant at a distance of 18 inches and prune annually. The scarlet wood, though small, is very pretty in winter, but not showy enough in the distance. Cornus alba Spathi has beautiful golden foliage in the summer, and does not lose its brightness in the hottest years. Requires the same treatment as the above.

Corylus maxima atropurpurea.—One of our best purple-leaved plants, especially so in early summer. Arrange to plant this near Acer negundo variegata, Sambucus nigra aurea, or both, and the effect will be good. It will succeed on almost any kind of well-trenched ground. Plant the shrubs 3 feet apart, and they will require little attention, but every fifth year the shoots should be cut clean to the ground, when the growth and foliage will be much more robust and telling.

Cotoneaster Simonsii.—A strong-growing shrub, and suitable for making large groups; it is very effective during autumn and winter when studded with its red berries. It should be planted 3 feet apart and not pruned, but about every fifth year it should be cut close to the ground.

Cytisus albus, the Common White Broom; Cytisus scoparius, the Common Yellow Broom; and the effective although newer variety, C. scoparius, andreanus, are all delightful plants when extensively planted, not only when in flower, but their fresh-looking green wood is pleasing at all seasons. Plant early in April 3½ feet apart, using small plants. None of the Brooms like being cut back to the hard wood, but the young growths may be shortened back after flowering. C. præcox is perhaps the best of the whole family, flowering profusely, and is of good habit. It should be planted 4 feet apart, and the strong growths pegged down in the soil.

Daphne mezereum and the white variety album are among our earliest and most beautiful flowering shrubs; Autumnale is excellent, it blooms in late autumn. They should be planted 4 feet apart, either immediately after flowering or in very early autumn, both flourishing best on light soils.

Dimorphanthus mandschuricus (syn. Aralia mandschurica).—This fine tropical-looking plant, when planted in large beds, forms a magnificent feature during the summer months, and in the winter the stems when bare are both curious and interesting. It enjoys a deep rich soil, and is easily propagated from root suckers. Plant at a distance of 5 feet apart.

Euonymuses.—The true variety of Euonymus alatus must rank as one of the most valuable plants for autumn effect. Words can hardly describe its beautiful tints. It is a slow grower, but will succeed in almost any kind of soil. Plant 3 feet apart. E. europæus (the Spindle tree) should be planted in large beds or masses at a distance of 4 feet apart, and pruned annually. It deserves a place by any woodland walk or in the half-wild garden. Thus treated it will fruit most freely, and its pretty pink berries hanging in thick bunches are sure to attract attention. The white variety, though as pretty, does not fruit so freely.

Forsythia suspensa.—This is most effective when planted in any position in the gardens or grounds. It makes a delightful bed when planted at a distance of 4 feet apart, and should not be pruned. F. viridissima, though not such a pretty kind as the above, is equally well suited; it flowers profusely. Both of these flower during March and April. The surface-soil should be pricked over every spring.

Fuchsia Riccartoni.—This charming old shrub makes magnificent beds in any part of the grounds. It should be cut down close to the ground every spring and receive a mulching of half-decayed manure. This is not planted half so largely as it deserves to be.

Hydrangea paniculata grandiflora.—This is perfectly hardy, and few flowering shrubs are more admired during autumn when in large beds. They should be planted in a deep rich soil, in a moist position, 3 feet apart, and pruned back hard annually at the end of March. We have some which were planted sixteen years ago and have never once failed to make a splendid display. The surface-soil should be pricked over early in spring.

Hippophaë rhamnoides (the Sea Buckthorn).—This will succeed well in any deep moist soil. Its beautiful grey foliage shows up well during summer, and when the male and female plants are mixed together the branches will be wreathed with clusters of beautiful orange-coloured berries during autumn and winter. Plant 5 feet apart and somewhat in the background. Very little pruning will be required, except to regulate the growths. Prick over the surface-soil annually. The Sea Buckthorn also lends itself admirably for planting by the sides of lakes and streams or at the back of rock-work.

Hypericums.—H. Androsæmum grows to the height of 2 feet 6 inches, and is sure to be appreciated. Its flowers appear profusely during summer, and are followed by clusters of dark-brown berries. Plant 2 feet apart and prune close to the ground annually early in April. H. calycinum (the Common St. John's Wort) is partly evergreen and admirably suited for clothing banks or making beds where low-growing subjects are required; it will flourish anywhere, and should be cut close to the ground with the shears annually. H. moserianum is one of the best of this class of plants, but needs some protection in cold districts. H. patulum is also an excellent variety, and not so extensively planted as it deserves.

Kerria japonica.—A charming compact-growing shrub, with single bright-yellow flowers. It is suitable for small beds or grouping in the front of shrubberies. There is a variegated variety which is liable to revert back to the green form, but such shoots should be kept cut out. Very little if any other pruning is required; a poor, light, sandy soil suits it best.

Leycesteria formosa.—A delightful shrub for massing in the wilderness or wild garden; requires a deep rich soil. Its large purple and white flowers in August and September are very pleasing, and during autumn and winter the wood is very conspicuous, being bright green. It should be pruned back annually, and the ground pricked over in spring. Plant at a distance of 4 feet apart.

Lonicera (Honeysuckle), Large Dutch.—To see this beautiful climbing plant at its best, make a mound of tree roots, fill in with soil, and plant at a distance of 4 feet apart. At first the growths will require to be trained and nailed over the roots, and when once covered they will need little other attention. Large beds planted in this way will be sure to be highly appreciated, if for nothing else, for the fragrance of the flowers.

Lycium chinense.—Commonly called Box Thorn or Tea Tree; should be planted in large groups where it can ramble away near the water or overhang large roots of trees or boulders. Except to regulate the growths once a year, it will give no further trouble. There are several other varieties well suited for the same purpose.

Pyrus japonica.—This well-known early-flowering shrub may be grouped in almost any position, but is seen to the best advantage when on raised ground or overhanging masses of rock. It should not be pruned, but allowed to retain its natural habit. Plant at a distance of 4 feet apart. The variety carnea is equally good, but bears more freely; the fruits make excellent preserve, while the flowers are a beautiful flesh colour. C. Maulei is quite distinct from the above, but quite as valuable, and flowers and fruits freely.

Rhus cotinus (Venetian Sumach), the Smoke Plant or Wig Tree, is one of the most effective shrubs for this purpose. A large mass of this, with its delightfully-tinted foliage in autumn, is a pleasing picture, and is well adapted for any position or any part of the garden. It should be planted in deep but poor soil, at a distance of 5 feet apart, and slightly pruned annually early in April; it requires no other attention. R. typhina (the Stag's-Horn Sumach) is one of the commonest plants grown, with not much beauty, except when planted in large beds and cut close to the ground annually. When treated in this way few things are more attractive; it then throws up strong, vigorous shoots, with fine tropical-looking foliage, which is highly attractive during summer, and the colouring of the foliage during autumn is most conspicuous, also of the wood during winter. When stripped of its foliage it is distinct and pleasing; it will flourish in any soil. Plant 3 feet apart, and it is easily propagated by root suckers.

Rosa rugosa.—This charming Rose, when planted in the wilderness, wild garden, or around the lake, in large beds or masses, is always seen to advantage; it has fragrant flowers in summer, and large, highly-coloured fruit in autumn. Place it in the forefront of flowering plants. Plant in deep, well-enriched soil, at a distance of 4 feet apart, and prune, like other Roses, annually. The white variety is equally well adapted, and may be mixed with the above.

Rosa Bengale Hermosa, belonging to the monthly or China section, is one of the freest flowering and most charming of all Roses. In mild autumns it flowers freely until Christmas when planted in sheltered positions. It enjoys a rich soil, and should be pegged down annually, merely thinning out the growths in spring. May go in any part of the garden or grounds, and it is perhaps unequalled for covering southern slopes. Fellenberg is exceptionally free also.

Rosa rubiginosa (the Sweet Briar).—Every woodland walk, wilderness, or wild garden should have one bed or more of this fragrant plant. The delicious scent emitted from its foliage in spring after showers is very welcome, and the bushes, when heavily laden with the bright-red fruits in autumn and winter, are most effective. This should be planted at a distance of 3 feet apart in well-trenched and heavily-manured ground, and clipped over every spring.

Rubus.—Nearly the whole of these may be freely grouped. Only those most successful at Elstree are mentioned: R. biflorus (the white-washed Bramble) is one of the most distinct and effective of the whole class. During winter it looks as if it had been painted white, and when planted close to the Scarlet Dogwood is exceedingly attractive in the distance. It succeeds best on a good deep loam, and the old growths should be cut out every winter. Plant at a distance of 4 feet apart. R. canadensis rosea (the flowering Raspberry) is invaluable for making large beds. It continues to produce its highly-coloured flowers freely all through the summer and autumn. Plant 3 feet apart and thin out the old growths annually. R. ulmifolius roseo flore-pleno, also the white form alba (the double-flowered Blackberry), may be grouped on slopes. The old growths should be cut out annually, and plant 4 feet apart. R. laciniata (American Blackberry) is the best of the fruiting kinds for this purpose; it produces large crops of valuable fruit every year. Treat in the same way as advised for the above. R. phœnicolasius (the Japanese Wineberry). This somewhat new form of Rubus is one of the best plants for this kind of planting. It bears freely, and the fruits are much appreciated by many, and its bright canes during winter produce a most pleasing effect. It is a strong grower when planted in good soil at a distance of 5 feet apart. Remove all the old canes during winter. The ordinary garden forms of Raspberry also make fine groups in the unkept parts of the grounds. The old growths should be pruned out each autumn, when the young canes have a warm and pleasing appearance.

Salix.—Many of the Willows form splendid features during the winter months. Perhaps on a fine winter's day large masses of the highly-coloured barked Willows can hardly be excelled for their beauty and rich colouring, but, of course, are only adapted for waterside planting or low, wet, marshy land. Nothing is more readily propagated from cuttings than these. They should be planted 3 feet apart, and the young growths pruned hard to the ground annually the last week in March, for it must be borne in mind that any wood more than twelve months old has very little, if any, beauty in it. The most important for the beauty of their wood are Salix vitellina, the golden-barked Willow, S. alba britzensis, warm, orange-coloured bark, very beautiful, S. cardinalis (which has bright-red bark), and S. purpurea, purple. Though the last mentioned is not so effective in the distance as the foregoing, it is well worthy of cultivation. Only one other Willow will be mentioned; it should be planted for its summer beauty, that is S. rosmarinifolia. Its beautiful grey foliage much resembles that of Rosemary. It is not so robust a grower as many of the family, and there is no beauty in the wood during winter, consequently the growths should only be shortened back to within three eyes of the base annually.

Sambucus.—The Elder family, like the preceding, is a large one, and fortunately adapts itself to almost any soil and situation. First and foremost must be mentioned Sambucus nigra aurea, a bold and beautiful tall-growing Elder, and its rich golden foliage produces a marvellous effect in the landscape. Large bold masses of this should always be used where practical in a half-open position. Hard pruning in this case must be carried out, cutting the summer's growth close to the ground annually in the last week of March. The effect of the greenish-grey wood in winter when treated in this way is pleasing; the silvery variegated form, though not so showy, is worthy of a place where the grounds are extensive. Should be planted on poor soil in an open position, and pruned hard annually. S. n. laciniata (the Parsley-leaved Elder) is a beautiful and distinct form of the cut-leaved Elder, which attains its true character and makes splendid beds; it requires the same kind of treatment as to pruning as the above. S. racemosa foliis aurea is unquestionably the finest variety in cultivation, and one would like to see it more often in our gardens, but there seems to be an unreasonable prejudice against golden-leaved shrubs, however beautiful. It does best on a deep rich soil in a fully-exposed position, and prune back hard early in April. The cuttings should be propagated in pots in a cold frame. The whole of the Elders should be planted 3 feet apart.

Spartium junceum (the Spanish Broom).—Flowers in early autumn and lasts a considerable time. Its bright-yellow blooms are very telling in the distance. Plant 4 feet apart, and prune after flowering.