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Trees and Shrubs for English Gardens

Chapter 97: The Dwarfer Heaths
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About This Book

A practical, illustrated manual offering guidance on selecting, grouping, and planting hardy trees and shrubs suited to English gardens. It explains propagation and pruning techniques, seasonal care, and methods for transplanting, staking, and preserving mature specimens. Dedicated chapters address site-specific challenges such as seaside exposure, wind-swept grounds, poor soils, waterside and rock-garden planting, and urban or small-plot situations. The work surveys major plant groups, including conifers, bamboos, heaths, and variegated and weeping forms, and recommends ornamental uses, hedging, pleaching, orchard and rose management. Appendices and tables list hardy species, while numerous photographs and sketches illustrate ideal forms and groupings.

ONE OF THE BEST OF ALL HEATHS (Erica carnea).

E. mediterranea.—Of all the taller Heaths this is the one, I think, that deserves to be most freely planted in districts no warmer than the London one. The three preceding species, so beautiful when seen at their best, are more comfortable in the southern and western counties. Of sturdier constitution, E. mediterranea may be planted in large quantities with a view to producing broad effects. At Kew a group 70 feet across, planted three or four years ago, already makes a striking mass of purple each spring. The habit of remaining for a long time in full beauty, which is so marked a characteristic of the Heaths, is possessed to the full extent by this species. It is beautiful from March to May, and is all the more appreciated because the majority of the trees and shrubs that bloom at this season have yellow, pink, or white flowers. In the typical E. mediterranea the flowers are bright rosy red, but there is a charming white-flowered variety (alba), another with bluish foliage (glauca), and a dwarf one (nana). The flowers appear near the ends of the shoots in the axils of the leaves, and are pitcher-shaped. The name mediterranea is misleading, for according to Moggridge, the Mediterranean botanist, it is not a native of that region at all; it is rather of Biscayan origin, and is found in Western France and Spain.

On the boggy heaths of Galway and Mayo a form of this species is found; it is known as E. mediterranea var. hibernica, and grows 2 to 5 feet high. The typical E. mediterranea was represented in the Syon gardens seventy years ago by a specimen 10 feet high. Do any such noble examples remain in this country now? E. mediterranea hybrida has been already alluded to.

E. stricta.—Although not so strikingly beautiful as the Heaths previously mentioned, E. stricta is the hardiest of all the taller species. In inclement districts, where a tall Heath is desired, it may be recommended; it grows from 5 to 6 feet high, and is of erect and sturdy growth, with leaves borne in whorls four to six together; they are deep green, and a large mass of plants with their erect plumose branches produces a somewhat unusual effect. E. stricta, like so many Heaths, has a long flowering season; it begins to bloom in June, is at its best in July, but three months later flowers may still be gathered. The flowers are pale purple, and produced in terminal clusters. It has been in cultivation since 1765, and is a native of South-Western Europe; it is occasionally labelled E. ramulosa.

A GROUPING OF HEATHS (Erica mediterranea and vars. alba and hybrida).

E. scoparia.—This species has proved to be the tallest Heath near London, for it has during the last few years grown as high as 9 feet. This gives it a certain distinction, but when regarded as a flower-bearing plant it is, I think, the least worthy of the tribe. The flowers are crowded in the leaf axils in great profusion, but are small and greenish white; the growth of the plant is somewhat straggling and uneven, but it has one merit—viz., it is quite hardy. I have seen its stems split by hard frost on more than one occasion during the last twelve years, but no permanent injury has resulted. It flowers in June, and is a native of the mountainous country to the north of the Mediterranean, especially about Mentone.

The Dwarfer Heaths

The dwarf Heaths can be used quite differently from the more tree-like species that have just been described: as a carpeting beneath sparsely-planted shrubs, for furnishing sloping banks, or for growing on the small terraces of the Rock Garden they are equally useful. And of all these dwarf Heaths more can be said in favour of E. carnea than of any other species. It is not only absolutely hardy, but it flowers with astonishing freedom at a time of year when flowers are particularly cherished. Its flowering, of course, somewhat depends upon the weather, but frequently one may see its bright rosy bells almost as soon as January comes in. By the end of February the entire plant is a mass of beautiful colour, and for two or three months longer they retain their freshness no matter what weather may occur. So free-flowering is this Heath that its flowers literally cover it. E. carnea is one of those plants (and there are many of them) which, although perfectly well known and quite common, are still not used in gardens so freely as they ought to be. The majority of our early-flowering plants bear flowers that are either white or yellow, so that the rosy-red colouring of this Erica makes a welcome change. However freely it might be planted it would never become wearisome or out of place, for its tints, though bright and warm, are not harsh. Statements have been recently published to the effect that E. carnea is a British plant. This idea appears to have originated with Bentham, the botanist, who regarded E. carnea and E. mediterranea as the same species. Following out this idea, he included the plant which has already been alluded to as a form of E. mediterranea, which is found in Western Ireland, in his Flora of Britain as a form of E. carnea. Possibly he was right from the standpoint of the botanist, but the plant grown in gardens and nurseries as E. carnea is quite distinct from E. mediterranea. It is usually not more than 6 to 8 inches high, and is a native of the mountains of Central Europe.

WHITE SCOTCH HEATHER (Erica cinerea alba).

E. cinerea (Scotch Heather).—Over almost the whole of these islands, from the Highlands of Scotland to the moors of Devon and Cornwall, this Heath occurs more or less abundantly. During the late summer and early autumn—it flowers from July onwards—it covers miles of Exmoor with bright-purple colouring, being usually associated with one of the dwarf autumn-flowering Gorses (Ulex Gallii). In gardens it has produced several forms, the two most brilliantly coloured being atrosanguinea and atropurpurea, but all the forms of this Heath are beautiful in colour, ranging from white to crimson. E. carnea loves the cool pure mountain air, and on hot and sandy soil in the Thames Valley is short-lived. At the same time it thrives admirably in gardens where a moist, cool bottom can be provided and where the air is pure. Altogether it makes an admirable succession to E. carnea.

E. ciliaris (Dorset Heath).—Although in smoky and foggy places, such as London, this Heath is not always satisfactory, in the purer air of the surrounding counties it is a delightful shrub. In some of the old oak-bearing country, in Sussex, for instance, it succeeds to perfection. It is a native of Britain, but is, I believe, confined to Cornwall and Dorset in England, and to Galway in Ireland. It has long, slender, prostrate stems, from which spring erect flower-bearing branches; the rich rose-purple flowers are borne in a long raceme, and they are the largest individually of those of all the native Heaths. The leaves are nearly always in threes, and, like all the younger parts of the plant, are covered with hairs and pubescence; it flowers from July onwards.

WHITE MEDITERRANEAN HEATH (Erica mediterranea alba).

E. maweana.—This appears to be a fine variety of E. ciliaris, with larger leaves and flowers, even richer in colour and of sturdier growth. It was discovered in Portugal some thirty years or so ago by Mr. George Maw, but has not become popular notwithstanding its beauty. It was obtained for the Kew collection from Messrs. Cunningham and Fraser, of Edinburgh, three or four years ago, and certainly promises to be a better grower there than E. ciliaris. The flowers are rich crimson and in large racemes.

E. Watsoni.—This is a supposed natural hybrid between E. ciliaris and E. Tetralix, and was first discovered near Truro by Mr. H. C. Watson. It has rosy-crimson flowers produced in a flatter raceme than that of E. ciliaris. In this character and in other ways it is intermediate between the parents.

E. Tetralix (the Cross-leaved Heath or Bell Heather).—This beautiful Heath grows on most of the moors and mountain-sides throughout the British Isles, being perhaps the most widely spread of all the true Ericas in this country. It is called the "Cross-leaved Heath" because of the arrangement of the leaves, which are in whorls of four. It is not very distinct in general appearance from E. ciliaris, being downy and hairy on its young slender leaves, &c. It differs, however, in the arrangement of the flowers, which are in a terminal umbel. The leaves of E. ciliaris are usually in threes at each node, and, of course, its distribution in Britain is much more restricted than that of E. Tetralix. There are other minor points of difference that need not be referred to here. The "Cross-leaved Heath" grows 1 to 1½ feet high, and has bright rose-coloured flowers. There is a white-flowered variety (alba), and a very pubescent one named mollis.

E. Mackaii.—This is so closely allied to E. Tetralix that it is regarded merely as a variety by some authorities. It was first found in Galway in Ireland, between Roundstone Bay and Clifden. It has since proved to be a native also of Spain. It is a charming garden plant flowering from July to September. The leaves have the same right-angled arrangement as those of E. Tetralix, but the flower is shorter, broader, and of a paler rose.

E. vagans (Cornish Heath).—This Heath is one of the most useful of dwarf evergreens, growing vigorously, especially when planted in good soil. I think, however, it flowers better and has more of the typical Heath character when in somewhat poor, sandy soil. In England it is almost or quite confined to Cornwall, but occurs also in Ireland and South-West Europe. It is especially valuable in the garden because it flowers late, beginning in July and keeping on until October. Its flowers are crowded in racemes 4 to 6 inches long, and they are pinkish purple in colour. The plants may be kept neater and more compact by removing the flowering portion of the shoots before growth recommences in the following spring. Left to themselves, especially in soil that is at all rich, the plants are apt to get straggling and unkempt.

E. multiflora.—This belongs to the same type of Heath as E. vagans, the Cornish Heath, but differs in its more compact growth and shorter racemes of flowers. Although not so vigorous and showy, it may still be preferred for some situations. It is a neater plant, and its lower branches have not the same tendency to get sprawling and ungainly as E. vagans. In other respects it is much like that species, the leaves being of similar shape and arrangement, and the flowers of a paler purple; the raceme, however, is only 2 inches or so long. E. multiflora is not found in Britain, but is a native of the country to the north of the Mediterranean Sea from France to Greece.

Calluna vulgaris.—This has been named Erica (Heath), and may be appropriately included in this chapter on Heaths. It is the Common Heath of mountain and moor, is very closely allied to the true Heaths, and has given rise to many varieties. It likes a peaty or sandy soil, and is longer-lived and more profuse flowering under cultivation in poor rather than rich soil. It is very charming when grown in natural masses in the wilder parts of the garden, and its value is all the greater because it flowers when almost all other shrubs are out of bloom, viz., from July to October. Numerous varieties are offered by the trade, amongst which the following are the most noteworthy, either for their beauty or for their distinctness: Alba (white), Alporti (crimson), aurea (golden leaved), tenuis (red), pygmæa, and hypnoides (both dwarf).

Dabœcia polifolia (St. Dabeoc's Heath) is a lovely little shrub, a close relative of the Heaths, and found wild in the west of Ireland. It grows a little over 1 foot high, and bears bell-shaped flowers rather abundantly on erect terminal spikes. They are purple or white, and sometimes have both colours in one flower, and the plants continue to produce them from July or August till the frosts come. It is quite as plentiful as the dwarf Heaths. Alba is a white variety. Menziesia polifolia is its former name, and is still found under that title in books.

The three most suitable Heaths for limestone are Erica carnea, vagans, and mediterranea.

CHAPTER XXIX

NATIVE AND OTHER HARDY EVERGREENS

Rambling about the country in winter, one becomes more and more impressed with the beauty of our native evergreen trees and shrubs. Seven names comprise them all—Yew, Holly, Scotch Fir, Spruce, Juniper, Box, and Ivy. Even of these the Scotch and Spruce Firs (commonly so-called, though the Scotch is a Pine) are doubtful natives, though so long acclimatised that they may be classed with our own. Those who are laying out new grounds on a large scale would do well to plant these grand things in plenty; indeed, in the case of any new planting that is taken in hand, unless the owner has a good knowledge of shrubs and some taste in their choice and disposition, a planting of these alone would save him from many a regrettable mistake, and from the prospect of the usual senseless jumble of mixed shrubbery that has hopelessly spoilt thousands of gardens.

No foreign shrubs can compare with or take the place of our Yews and Hollies. However large a collection of exotics may be in a well-stocked arboretum, a winter walk among them only shows that there is nothing more cheerfully handsome than our Hollies, or more solemnly dignified than our Yews. On dry, sandy soils no Conifer is better for England than the Scotch Fir; or for moist, loamy regions and valley bottoms none is better than the Spruce. Exception is sometimes taken to the Spruce; and when planted in other than the place it likes it is, indeed, a wretched object, as on dry and hilly grounds. But a mass of Common Spruce in a cool, alluvial bottom is a picture of well-being, and no one can deny their majesty on alpine hillsides. The Douglas Fir is sometimes recommended in its stead, but this beautiful and quick-growing tree must still be regarded as an experiment. There is not as yet a single old Douglas Fir, and there are some among our botanical experts who are yet in doubt whether, for all its young vigour, it will be a lasting tree for our country. For dry uplands in light soil there is the lovely Juniper, best of all its kind (though often in nurseries foreign ones only are offered to its exclusion), and for chalky soils and loams the Box luxuriates, and can be used as a small tree, as well as in its usual bush form.

The use of Common Ivy should not be forgotten. Tree or bush ivies are amongst the most beautiful and effective of winter plants, all flowering from October to January. A noble evergreen is the tree form of Ivy amurensis.

In Ireland we have the Arbutus Unedo, and A. Andrachne is a tree once seen will always be remembered; its coloured bark is very beautiful.

Importance of a Suitable Climate.—Evergreen shrubs luxuriate generally in the climate of the British Isles, especially in the southern and western counties, and constitute one of the great glories of the English garden, delighting in these sea-bound islands, with their cool and moist atmosphere.

It has been established, therefore, that the evergreen seeks an equable climate, free from extremes of cold and heat, and with an even supply of moisture to both leaf and root, favouring in a marked degree the sea-coast with its salt-laden winds. As we travel south, so opportunities for growing an increasing variety of evergreen trees and shrubs become more apparent, until, in the south of Cornwall and the south-west of Ireland, things may be planted out with safety which towards the midlands and north would scarcely exist. But latitude is not everything, and easily proved so by the rude vigour of plants from New Zealand and the Himalayas that are happy in the north of Scotland, but failures in the midlands and further south of England, requiring the protection of glass to develop their characteristic beauty.

The place for the tender evergreens must be protected from dry north and east winds. Mr. Bean writes me: "One of the most striking examples I have met with of the importance of having a situation such as is described is the Duchess' garden at Belvoir Castle. Belvoir is in the eastern midlands, a district where the average temperature is certainly not high, and where, during my stay there, the thermometer fell on more than one occasion to zero (Fahr.). Yet in this particular spot (known as the Duchess' garden) there were fine specimens of Himalayan Rhododendrons—one of R. Falconeri being especially noteworthy for the way it grew and flowered—an Azara microphylla, 16 feet high, and other similar examples. The explanation of these successes, I believe, is entirely in the situation and exposure of the garden. It was formed on the slope of a rather steep hill, and is in the shape of an amphitheatre opening freely to the south. The bitter 'north-easter' loses much of its sting before it reaches the plants in this garden. In most gardens it is, of course, impossible to obtain sites so favourable as this. One has to make the best of what exists. But at the same time it shows the desirability, often the necessity, of choosing positions for the tenderer evergreens in which this need of shelter is satisfactorily met. Bamboos, Camellias, many Rhododendrons, Elæagnus, all afford striking examples of the value of a shelter belt on the north and east sides." A cool, moist soil is generally necessary for evergreen shrubs, and we know this to be true from the distress shown by many kinds during a dry and parching summer.

The Time to Transplant.—Early autumn, but much depends upon the previous weather. It often happens that evergreens cannot be lifted through a dry soil. The same trees after winter rains may be moved with ease and safety in April or May. An evergreen should be disturbed whilst the roots are active, and by doing this in September the shrub can establish itself before winter—hence the object of waiting until late spring, when autumn has been missed, as root growth has again begun. Autumn is a season generally of much atmospheric moisture, grateful dews, and welcome rains. It is the season for planting in general, and seldom is the work seriously disturbed until Christmas is past. We have shifted many evergreens without one failure in April and quite late in May, but our anxieties are great when the life-giving rains refuse to refresh the earth. The spring of 1901 will never be forgotten as a season of dry winds and brilliant sunshine, without rain to temper the unfortunate conditions, and the result was a great loss amongst newly planted evergreens. Mr. Bean says: "Some evergreens can with reasonable care be moved with perfect safety at any time, except perhaps from July to September. Rhododendrons are an example. During the last ten years I have transplanted them in every month of the year, except July and August. Indeed, in the case of Rhododendrons and most evergreen ericaceous plants, the problems of transplanting scarcely arise, simply because the fine fibres hold the soil so completely that the root system can, with due care, be removed practically intact. For the same reasons, very careful transplanting, such as is practised with a transplanting machine, may also be done at almost any season.

"When the roots of large evergreen shrubs have been unavoidably damaged, it is often a good plan to remove a portion of the leafy branches. This helps to restore, in some measure, the balance between root and top. The shrub will frequently do this itself. Hollies, for instance, often lose a large proportion of their leaves after transplanting in spring; it is one of the surest signs of success, just as the shrivelling of the leaves on the branches is the worst. Evergreen oaks also furnish other examples." A difference of opinion exists as to removing any of the leafy branches. A great authority writes me: "Keep on all the foliage you can. I have seen this succeed with large deciduous trees."

Remember that Evergreen oaks planted in late spring or in summer should receive a thorough soaking of water once, then no more until new growth begins. Syringe freely three times a day in hot weather. I once saw a yew hedge that had been planted in mid-winter, the wrong time; it was looking rather brown through exposure to March winds. The time I refer to (April) a man was pouring water into the roots and the result was that nearly all these fine plants died. Had he damped the foliage twice or thrice a day instead they would have all lived. It is important in the case of newly planted yew and holly hedges to protect by screens of spruce boughs secured to a hurdle or any other material suitable at hand to assist the plants until they have started into growth.

Pruning.—This is a great advantage to all Evergreens in moderation; the majority, if left to their own will, become straggling in growth and unsightly.

Evergreens differ from deciduous plants in regard to time of pruning. Most deciduous things may be pruned at any time between the fall of the leaf and the recommencement of growth in spring. But evergreens should never be pruned in late autumn or winter. For plants that are grown merely for foliage sake and not for the flowers, pruning should be done just as new growth is commencing. In the case of flowering shrubs like Rhododendron or Berberis it should be done as soon as the flowering season is past.

Rhododendrons are improved by pruning, but the pruner must know something of the varieties and their growth. Berberis stenophylla gains in beauty by severe pruning, thinning out and cutting back after flowering is over. It helps the plant to make those long, drooping growths which are so beautiful in spring.

Climbing Evergreens.—One of the peculiarities of the evergreen class of plants is the marked absence of climbing species in cool temperate countries—that is, true climbers, not, the numerous things that are made to do duty as such on walls. If one takes up a tree and shrub catalogue of even the best nurserymen, one is struck by the few evergreen climbers offered. In spite of the fact that the cool, temperate regions of the earth have been so thoroughly ransacked during the last century, no plant has ever been found that equals or even approaches in value the Common Ivy and its varieties for the special purposes for which they are adapted. The best that are available are the Jasmine, Ercilla volubilis (Bridgesia spicata), Smilax, Clematis calycina, and tenderer things like Lardizabala and Passiflora cærulea.

WEEPING HOLLY ON LAWN.

Evergreens as a whole are much neglected in ordinary gardens. Instead of drawing upon the great wealth of shrubs available, so many go on using the same old things over and over again, generally Aucuba, Portugal and Cherry Laurels, Rhododendron ponticum, and such like.

The Holly is one of the most beautiful of all evergreen shrubs, and many varieties are not known, Ilex Wilsoni, for example, and Laurifolia nova (Camelliæfolia) which is very distinct from the former. The best of the Hollies, Hodginsii (syn. Shepherdii), Marnockii, Hendersonii, platyphylla, fructu-luteo (yellow-berried), Handsworthensis, Laurifolia, Maderensis atrovirens, which are all green-leaved varieties. Of variegated varieties, very beautiful are Golden Queen and Silver Queen, Handsworth Silver, Argentea marginata, and Mme. Briot. Watereriana (Waterer's dwarf golden) makes an excellent little bush, with smooth leaves blotched and edged with yellow.

The Best Evergreens.—The following is a representative list of the hardier species of evergreens which are considered most deserving of attention, and I have roughly grouped them according to their size. Conifers are not included. There is, of course, considerable difference in the sizes to which evergreens attain, according to the climate in which they are growing. The grouping here is merely intended to give an approximate idea of their habit. Those marked with an asterisk (*) are the more tender ones, and although valuable in the southern and warmer parts of the country, have not been grown in the colder localities, or if so, against a wall.

(i.) Trees

Common Box and varieties, especially Handsworthensis, which is exceptionally hardy. The variety pendula is very handsome in the shrubbery and Japonica aurea is one of the finest shrubs ever introduced for giving colour to the garden in winter. This plant should be pruned in spring to get the full rich colouring.

Common Holly and varieties, especially such superb varieties as, of the large-leaved varieties, Wilsoni, Mundyi, Shepherdi, Camelliæfolia (syn. latifolia) nova, Marnocki, Madeirensis, and Hendersoni. The best small-leaved sorts are Handsworthensis, tortuosa, ovata, crenata, crenata latifolia and Doningtonensis. Of variegated sorts choose Golden Queen, Compacta aurea, Marginata, Handsworth Silver, Argentea marginata and grandis.

*Magnolia grandiflora.

Quercus Ilex (Holm Oak), laurifolia and Fordi. The Fulham Oak, not quite evergreen, but a beautiful tree.

Yews (Taxus), Dovastoni, Dovastoni variegata, hibernica, hibernica aurea variegata, grandis, ericoides, cuspidata, elegantissima, lævigata, adpressa, and adpressa aurea variegata.

(ii.) Tall Shrubs (say 8 feet or more high)

Arbutus hybrida and varieties.

"    Menziesii.

"    Unedo.

"    Andrachne, very fine.

*Azara microphylla.

Camellia japonica varieties.

Cotoneaster buxifolia, horizontalis (Davidii), microphylla, and angustifolia.

Cratægus Pyracantha, and the variety Lælandi.

*Laurus nobilis (Sweet Bay), L. latifolius.

Ligustrum lucidum, japonicum.

Prunus lusitanica (Portugal Laurel).

Prunus Laurocerasus (Common or Cherry Laurel).

Quercus acuta.

,,    coccifera (Kermes Oak).

,,    phillyræoides.

Rhododendrons, garden varieties.

,,        catawbiense.

,,        Fortunei.

ARBUTUS MENZIESII (Kew).

(iii.) Medium Sized Shrubs (3 feet or more)

Aucuba japonica vars, male and female, green-leaved sorts, very fine.

Berberis Aquifolium and vars.

,,    buxifolia.

,,    Darwinii.

* ,,    japonica.

,,    stenophylla.

,,    wallichiana.

*Choisya ternata (Mexican Orange Flower).

Cistus laurifolius.

Daphne purpurea.

Elæagnus macrophyllus.

,,    pungens and vars.

*Erica arborea.

*    ,,    australis.

*    ,,    lusitanica.

Erica mediterranea, Vulgaris, Alporti, Hammondii, multiflora, and rubrum.

Escallonia philippiana, E. rubra.

*Eucryphia pinnatifolia.

Euonymus japonicus.

*Garrya elliptica.

Ilex cornuta.

Kalmia latifolia.

Ligustrum japonicum.

Olearia Haastii.

Osmanthus ilicifolius.

Phillyræa decora.

,,    latifolia.

Pieris floribunda.

,,  japonica.

Raphiolepis ovata.

Rhamnus Alaternus and vars.

Rhododendron azaleoides.

,,      ponticum.

,,      myrtifolium.

Skimmia japonica, oblata and Formani, fine varieties.

Ulex europæus flore pleno (Double Gorse, Furze, or Whin).

Veronica Traversii.

Viburnum Tinus and vars. (Laurustinus).

Yucca angustifolia.

,,  gloriosa.

,,  recurvifolia.

(iv.) Dwarf Shrubs (under 3 feet)

Andromeda polifolia.

,,    floribunda.

Azalea amœna.

Bruckenthalia spiculifolia.

Bryanthus empetriformis.

Butcher's Broom.

Calluna vulgaris and vars. (Heather, Common Ling).

Cotoneaster microphylla.

,,      rotundifolia.

,,      thymifolia.

Dabœcia polifolia.

Daphne Cneorum (Garland Flower).

,,  oleoides.

Diplopappus chrysophyllus.

Erica carnea.

,,  ciliaris (Dorset Heath).

,,  cinerea (Scotch Heather).

,,  mediterranea hybrida.

,,  Tetralix (Bell Heather).

,,  vagans (Cornish Heath).

Euonymus radicans and vars.

Gaultheria procumbens (Partridge Berry).

,,    Shallon.

Genista hispanica, G. pilosa.

Hypericum calycinum.

Kalmia angustifolia.

,,  glauca.

Ledum latifolium, palustre.

Leiophyllum buxifolium.

Pernettya mucronata and vars.

Rhododendron ferrugineum.

,,      racemosum.

Vaccinium Vitis-idæa.

(v.) Climbers and Trailers

Arctostaphylos Uva-ursi.

Hedera Helix and vars. (Ivy). The bush forms might be included, all of which flower in winter and have berries.

Vinca major (Common Periwinkle).

Vinca minor (Lesser Periwinkle).

It must not be forgotten that our British evergreens flourish in the coldest parts of Yorkshire in a climate that may be considered the most trying for vegetation in the British Isles. Hollies and Rhododendrons, where planting has been done on the hillsides, may be seen as quite large trees. The New Zealand Olearia Haasti may also be seen there—7 feet to 8 feet high and as much through.

CHAPTER XXX

SHRUBS FOR SMALL GARDENS

It is possible in small gardens to grow many beautiful shrubs without constant cutting of the branches to keep them within set bounds. Those mentioned in the following list will grow in ordinary soil. Transplant during late autumn and early winter; and one golden rule to observe in the case of shrubs obtained from nurseries is to plant them in their permanent position as soon as possible after they are received, but should anything occur to prevent this, the roots must be well covered with soil till planting takes place. In winter large numbers of plants are sold at auction rooms, but though they may appear cheap, this is not always so, as there is no guide to the length of time they have been out of the ground, and in a dry atmosphere many of the smaller roots may have perished. Such plants take a long time to recover from the check. If trees or shrubs are bought at a local nursery, there is the great advantage of getting them in the ground again as soon as possible. The shrubs named are fully described elsewhere in this book.

Aucubas, 3 to 6 feet. Evergreen shrubs, some with variegated, others with plain green leaves. The male and female forms are separate. If the latter are fertilised, bright-red berries result.

Azaleas, 3 to 6 feet. For moist and peaty soil.

Berberis Aquifolium, 4 feet; B. Darwinii, 6 to 8 feet; B. stenophylla, 6 to 8 feet; B. Thunbergi, 2 to 3 feet; B. vulgaris purpurea, 5 to 6 feet (a purple-leaved variety of the Common Barberry).

Cornus Spaethii, 4 feet. This has rich golden foliage.

Cotoneaster frigida, 12 to 15 feet. A sturdy tree, with scarlet berries in autumn. C. horizontalis, 2 feet; C. microphylla, 3 feet; C. Simonsii, 5 to 8 feet.

Cratægus Oxyacantha (Common Hawthorn). As a small tree this is delightful in small gardens, especially the double-flowered forms, of which the richest in colour is Paul's double crimson. As a contrast to this there is the double white.

Cytisus albus (White Broom), 6 feet; C. nigricans, 4 feet; C. præcox (Sulphur Broom), C. scoparius (Common Broom), 6 feet; C. s. andreanus.

Daphne Cneorum (Garland Flower), 1 foot; D. Mezereum (the Mezereon), and the white variety alba.

Deutzia crenata fl. pl., 6 to 8 feet; D. gracilis, D. hybrida.

Elæagnus pungens, 6 feet. This is not so much planted as it should be; it is a rounded evergreen bush of great charm; flowers fragrant, November and December. There is a good variegated variety.

Euonymus japonicus, 4 to 8 feet; E. radicans, 1½ feet. The variegated variety is very popular.

Forsythia suspensa, 6 to 8 feet. A climbing shrub, but may be kept in bush form if pruned back hard after flowering. A mass of golden-yellow flowers in March or April.

Genista hispanica (Spanish Furze), 2 feet; G. sagittalis.

Hamamelis arborea (Japanese Witch Hazel), 6 to 10 feet; H. zuccariniana.

Hedera (Ivy). It must not be forgotten that several varieties form bushes. These are known as Tree Ivies, and are invaluable in shady spots.

HIBISCUS SYRIACUS (Althæa frutex), VAR. CÆRULEUS.

Hibiscus syriacus, 6 to 7 feet.

Hydrangea Hortensia (Common Hydrangea), 4 to 8 feet; H. paniculata grandiflora, 4 to 8 feet. Pruned back hard before starting into growth in spring, this can be kept dwarf, and if liquid manure is given the heads of creamy-white flowers in early autumn are very fine.

Hypericum calycinum (Rose of Sharon), 1 foot. Grows well under trees. H. moserianum, 2 feet.

Ilex Aquifolium (Common Holly). A familiar and handsome evergreen tree. The best variegated varieties are Golden Queen, Handsworth Silver, and Silver Queen. I. crenata (Japanese Holly).

Jasminum nudiflorum (Winter-flowered Jasmine), Common White Jasmine. Both for walls or to ramble over some support.

Kerria japonica, 5 feet. This little-known shrub should be more grown; its yellow flowers are small but pretty. Flore-pleno is a popular variety.

Laburnum.

Ligustrum ovalifolium aureum (Golden-leaved Privet), L. sinense (Chinese Privet).

Magnolia conspicua (Yulan), 10 to 30 feet; M. Lennei, 6 to 12 feet; M. soulangeana, 6 to 15 feet; M. stellata, 3 to 6 feet.

Osmanthus ilicifolius atropurpeus.

Philadelphus coronarius (Mock Orange), 8 to 12 feet; P. grandiflorus, 10 to 15 feet; P. hybrids.

MOCK ORANGE (Philadelphus coronarius).

Prunus. This genus includes the Almonds, Apricots, Cherries, Peaches, Plums, and Laurels. The best are the Almond, Double-flowered Gean (P. Avium fl. pl.), P. davidiana, P. japonica (P. sinensis), P. Laurocerasus (Common Laurel), P. lusitanica (Portugal Laurel), P. persica (the Peach), P. pseudo-cerasus, P. triloba, 6 to 12 feet.

Pyrus Aucuparia (Mountain Ash or Rowan tree). P. floribunda, P. japonica (Cydonia japonica), P. Maulei, P. spectabilis fl. pl.

Rhododendrons. Excellent where soil and surroundings are suitable.

Rhodotypus kerrioides, 4 to 6 feet.

Rhus Cotinus (Venetian Sumach, Wig Tree, Smoke Bush), 5 to 8 feet; R. glabra, 6 to 12 feet; R. typhina, 8 to 15 feet.

Ribes aureum (Golden-flowered Currant), 4 to 6 feet; R. sanguineum, 4 to 6 feet.

Robinia hispida (Rose Acacia), 8 to 12 feet. A delightful tree; rosy flower clusters in early summer, but very brittle. Must not be in wind-swept corners. R. Pseudacacia elegans (False Acacia), 20 feet; the Common False Acacia is too large for small gardens.

Rubus deliciosus, 5 to 6 feet.

Skimmia Fortunei and S. japonica, 2 to 4 feet. Two neat little evergreen shrubs, with bright-crimson berries in winter. Cool, moist soil.

Spartium junceum (Spanish Broom).

Spiræa arguta, 4 to 5 feet; S. ariæfolia, 8 to 10 feet, very beautiful; S. Douglasi, 6 feet; S. japonica (S. callosa) and varieties (see tables); S. media, 4 feet; S. prunifolia fl. pl., 6 to 8 feet; S. Thunbergi, 4 to 5 feet.

Symphoricarpus racemosus (Snowberry), 5 to 6 feet. The variegated variety of the Common Snowberry is pretty.

Syringa vulgaris (Lilac), 8 to 12 feet.

Ulex europæus fl. pl. (Double-flowered Furze or Gorse), 4 to 6 feet. Beautiful in hot and dry soil.

Viburnum Opulus sterile (Guelder Rose or Snowball tree), V. plicatum, 5 to 6 feet.

Vinca major (Periwinkle), 6 inches to 1 foot. A little creeping shrub, delightful for a rough bank, and will thrive under trees better than most shrubby plants. The pretty blue flowers appear for a long time. There is a variety with prettily variegated leaves. V. minor, another species, is smaller altogether. There are deep-blue and white varieties.

Weigelas, 6 to 8 feet. Excellent shrubs for small gardens.

Shrubs for Town Gardens

From the preceding list of shrubs for small gardens a selection suitable for towns is appended. Many things refuse to live in the smoky and confined air of towns. This is particularly noticeable in the case of evergreens; the pores become choked with sooty deposit, and the plant consequently soon fails, whereas many of those whose leaves are removed annually are not so seriously affected. Conifers are generally a failure. This is a small list, but only small gardens are under consideration.

  • Aucubas.
  • Berberis Aquifolium.
  • Berberis stenophylla.
  • Cotoneasters, especially C. frigida, which is, however, a small tree.
  • Cratægus Oxyacantha (Hawthorn) and varieties.
  • Cratægus Pyracantha (Fire Thorn); C. Lælandi.
  • Daphne Mezereum.
  • Euonymus japonicus.
  • Forsythia.
  • Genista hispanica.
  • Hedera (Ivy).
  • Hibiscus syriacus.
  • Jasminum officinale.
  • Kerria japonica.
  • Laburnum.
  • Ligustrum ovalifolium elegantissimum (Golden-leaved Privet).
  • Magnolia stellata, M. conspicua.
  • Osmanthus ilicifolius.
  • Philadelphus (Mock Orange).
  • Privet.
  • Prunus Amygdalus (Almond).
  • Prunus Avium flore-pleno (Double-flowered Gean).
  • Prunus Laurocerasus (Laurel).
  • Prunus Persica (Peach).
  • Prunus pseudo-cerasus.
  • Pyrus Aucuparia (Mountain Ash).
  • Pyrus floribunda.
  • Pyrus japonica and varieties.
  • Rhus typhina (Sumach).
  • Ribes aureum.
  • Ribes sanguineum and varieties.
  • Robinia Pseudacacia and varieties.
  • Spartium junceum.
  • Spiræa arguta.
  • Spiræa japonica and varieties.
  • Symphoricarpus racemosus (Snowberry).
  • Symphoricarpus vulgaris.
  • Syringa vulgaris (Lilac) and varieties.
  • Viburnum plicatum (Chinese Guelder Rose).
  • Weigela rosea and varieties.

CHAPTER XXXI

SHRUB AND FLOWER BORDERS

Where there are wide lawn spaces and fine trees in garden ground much of the effect is often lost or spoiled by the presence of unworthy trivialities where there should be distinct and bold features. The most frequent offender is a narrow strip of flower border, edging shrubbery and coming between the shrubs and the grass. Nothing is more useless than such a border. The shrubs would look much better coming right down to the grass, while if bright or distinct colour is absolutely required, it is easy to make a place here and there where some patch of Lily or other flower of bold form may be well seen.

These narrow borders are undesirable, not only for their poor effect—we think not of one, but of many a fine place where there are furlongs of such futility—but because the plan is destructive to both shrubs and flowers. If the ground is not dug for a year the roots of the shrubs invade it; if it is dug and enriched for the flowers, the feeding roots of the shrubs are mutilated.

In the case of a place where lawn comes up to shrub plantation, which, again, is backed by woodland, the better way is to have, in just the right places, a bold planting of something fairly large, whose flower shall endure for a good while, to let the large group of it come right through to the lawn, and also stretch away back into the woodland. In our southern counties, in sheltered places, where the ground is cool and moist, and at the same time well drained, nothing can be better than Hydrangeas. Other softer plants for the same treatment would be the fine Nicotiana sylvestris, and for earlier in the year White Foxglove, and even before that Verbascum olympicum. Lilium auratum is also superb in such places, and Polygonum Sieboldi and others of this fine race of autumn-blooming plants. If some of the shrubs at the edge of the grass, such as Azaleas, have beautiful colour at more than one time of the year, both at the flowering time and in autumn blaze of foliage, two seasons of beauty are secured.

Hardy Ferns are undeservedly neglected as plants to group about the feet of shrubs; some of the bolder kinds, as the Male Fern and the Lady Fern, are charming as a setting to the Lilies that love cool, shady wood edges.