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'Twixt France and Spain; Or, A Spring in the Pyrenees

Chapter 20: APPENDIX D.
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About This Book

A travel narrative recounts a spring journey through the western Pyrenees, beginning in Pau with descriptions of hotels, promenades, the castle, and social amusements; moves on to Bagnères-de-Bigorre with its thermal establishments, mountain passes, forest walks and rural markets; and visits Lourdes and other nearby towns, noting sanctuaries, grottoes, and pilgrimage activity. Interwoven are practical impressions of transit, local crafts such as marble work, sporting pursuits, food and lodging, and sketches of village life, scenery and routes for excursions, blending observation, anecdote and seasonal atmosphere.

APPENDIX B

RAILWAY INFORMATION AND SKELETON ROUTES TO THE CHIEF RESORTS IN THE PYRENEES.

For the ordinary traveller a "Continental Bradshaw" is as useful a railway guide as any, especially if his knowledge of French is limited, but the time tables published by Chaix and Cie. are also most excellent in every way. Of these the best and most expensive is the "Livret-Chaix Continental," price 2 frs, containing all continental railways and a complete index. A cheaper time table is the "Indicateur des Chemins de Fer," published by the same firm, price 1/2 fr., which gives the French railways only, with map and index. Besides these, all the principal lines have time tables of their own, price 30 cents.

It is advisable, when people are travelling as a party, that they should have their luggage all weighed together, presenting the whole of the tickets at the same time; this not only frequently saves expense, but, as the number of persons is marked by the luggage clerk on their baggage receipt, it is a guarantee that each has bought a ticket, which saves trouble if one should happen to be lost.

When people are stopping the night en route at a place, and do not wish to take their registered luggage to the hotel, only to have to bring it back for re-registration next day, they have simply to leave it in the station, and when starting again on the morrow to tell the porter—when they give him the baggage ticket—that it was left overnight (for which the charge is 1d. per package), whereupon he will register it without further trouble.

If a ticket is taken for the wrong station (by mistake) and the luggage is accordingly registered wrongly too, the passenger must represent the same to the station-master and ask him to allow a change to be made; if there is not time to do this the luggage clerk may take the responsibility—if the urgency of the case is made argentiferously clear—but the plan is not recommended. It is important to know that if a traveller misses his train he must present his ticket at the ticket office to be restamped in order to make it again available—otherwise it is liable to be forfeited.

Travellers will also save themselves much trouble by settling which hotel they intend to go to, before arriving at their destination; and it must be fully understood that for the carrying of small parcels taken into the carriage, the aid of porters can never be counted on. See Chapter XI.

Luggage not exceeding 30 kilogrammes (i.e. 66 lbs. Eng.) is carried free; 1d. being charged for the registration thereof.

* * * * *

Routes from London to Paris.

Route 1.—Via Dover, Calais, Montreuil, Abbeville, Amiens, Claremont, and Creil: the quickest route.

Route 2.—Via Folkestone, Boulogne, Montreuil, &c. as above.

Route 3.—Via Newhaven, Dieppe, Rouen, Gaillon, Mantes, and Poissy: the least expensive route.

From Liverpool to Bordeaux.

Route 4.—Per Pacific Steam Navigation Co.'s steamers, fortnightly, sailing on Wednesdays; average passage 2-1/2 days.

From London to Bordeaux.

Route. 5.—Per General Steam Navigation Co.'s steamers, average passage 3 to 4 days.

Route 6.—Via Weymouth, Cherbourg, Caen, Alençon, Le Mans, Tours and Angoulême. From Paris to Bordeaux.

Route 7.—Via Orleans, Blois, St. Pierre les Corps (for Tours), Poitiers, Angoulême, and Libourne.

From Paris to Bagnères de Bigorre.

Route 8.—Via Orléans, Nexon, Perigueux, Les Eyzies, Libos, Agen, Lectoure, Auch, Mirande, and Tarbes: the most direct route from Paris to the Pyrénées.

From Paris to Toulouse.

Route 9.—Via Issoudun, Argenton, Limoges, Nexon, Brives, Rocamadour, Assier, Figeac, Villefranche, and Tessonières: the quickest and best route for the Pyrénées Orientales, and resorts of Vernet, Amélie, &c.

From Bordeaux to Arcachon.

Route 10.—Viâ Gazinet, Facturé, Lamothe, and La Teste.

From Bordeaux to Bagnères de Bigorre.

Route 11.—Viâ Morcenx, Arjuzaux, Arengosse, Mont de Marsan, Aire, Vic-Bigorre, Tarbes, Salles, Adour, and Montgaillard: a longer route from Paris, by a few miles only, than Route 8.

From Bordeaux to Biarritz.

Route 12.—Viâ Ychoux, Morcenx, Dax, Saint Geours, and Bayonne.

From Bordeaux to Pau.

Route 13.—Viâ Ychoux, Morcenx, Dax, Puyoo, Orthez, Lacq, and Lescar.

From Pau to Eaux Bonnes and Eux Chaudes. Route 14.—By carriage viâ Gan, Louvie-Juzon, and Laruns.

Route 15.—By rail viâ Gan and Laruns, [Footnote: This railway was to be opened this year (1883).] and carriage from Laruns.

From Pau to Lourdes.

Route 16.—Viâ Coarraze-Nay, Montaut-Bétharram, and St. Pé.

From Pau to Oloron.

Route 17.—Viâ Gan and Belair.

From Lourdes to Argelès.

Route 18.—Viâ Soum, Lugagnan, and Boo-Silhen.

From Lourdes to Pierrefitte.

Route 19.—Viâ Soum, Lugagnan, Boo-Silhen and Argelès.

From Lourdes to Cauterets, Luz, St. Sauveur, Barèges, and Gavarnie.

Route 20.—By Route 19 to Pierrefitte, thence by diligence or private carriage to Cauterets.

Route 21.—By Route 19 to Pierrefitte, thence by diligence or private carriage to Luz.

Route 22.—By Route 19 to Pierrefitte, thence by similar conveyances to St. Sauveur.

Route 23.—By Route 21 to Luz and continuation to Barèges.

Route 24.—By Route 22 to St. Sauveur and continuation to Gavarnie.

From Bagnères de Bigorre to Barèges.

Route 25.—By carriage viâ Ste. Marie, Gripp, Tramesaïgues, and the Col de Tourmalet. This route is only open in midsummer.

From Bagnères de Bigorre to Bagnères de Luchon.

Route 26.—By carriage viâ Campan, Ste. Marie, Payole, Col d'Aspin, Arreau, Bordères, Col de Peyresourde, and Garin. Considered the finest drive in the Pyrenees.

Route 27.—By rail viâ Montgaillard, Tarbes, Montrejeau, Saléchan, Marignac, and Luchon. An exceedingly long round.

From Bagneres de Luchon to St. Bertrand de Comminges.

Route 27.—By carriage viâ Cier, Marignac, Saléchan, Loures, and Labroquère.

Route 28.—By train viâ Marignac and Saléchan to Loures, and carriage thence to St. Bertrand. The rail continues from Loures to Montrejeau.

From St. Bertrand to Montrejeau.

Route 29.—By carriage to Loures station, thence by train to Montrejeau.

Route 30.—By carriage direct to Montrejeau.

From Toulouse to Perpignan.

Route 31.—Via Castelnaudary, Carcassone, Narbonne, La Nouvelle, Salses, and Rivesaltes.

From Perpignan to Amélie-les-Bains.

Route 32.—By diligence or carriage viâ Pollestres, Le Boulou, and Le Pont de Ceret.

From Perpignan to Molitg.

Route 33.—By rail viâ Millas, Ille, Bouleternère, and Vinca, to Prades, thence by diligence or carriage viâ Catlar to Molitg.

From Perpignan to Vernet.

Route 34—Route 33 to Prades and coach to Vernet.

Route 35—By rail viâ Prades to Villefranche, and carriage thence to Vernet.

APPENDIX C.

SOME LOCAL PYRENEAN TERMS AND THEIR ENGLISH EQUIVALENTS.

Artigue, pasturage, prairie. Barranque, a deep hollow or ravine. Borde, Bourdette, farm-house, barn, cot. Caire, Quaire, Quaïrat, a cone-shaped peak, rocky and bare. Canaou, narrow ravine worn by the snow. Cap, mountain tip. Clot, a valley without exit. Colline, a small valley, a dale. Cortal, Courtaou, sheep-fold, sheep-pen. Couila, Couillade, shepherd's cabin, hut, fertile vale. Estibe, pasturage, feeding-ground. Estibère, a well-pastured mountain. Fitte, pointed summit. Montagne, feeding-ground (on a mountainside). Neste, mountain torrent. Orrhy, Orri, shepherd's hut. Oule, a bowl-shaped valley. Pech, Pouey, Puy, a mountain of no great height, in the Western Pyrenees; but also applied to loftier summits, in the Eastern range. Pène, Peña, Penne, pointed rock. Peyre, a large crag. Piche, Pisse, a cascade waterfall. Pinède, Pinade, pine forest, site of pine forest. Pique, synonymous with Fitte, pointed summit, peak. Pla, Plan, a valley with level meadows. Prade, Pradère, similar to Estibe, feeding-ground, meadow. Raillère, steep decline, avalanche channel. Roque, a mountain, steep and covered with crags. Sarrat, Serre, Serrère, a sharp-toothed crest, backbone of mountain. Sarre, a small hill. Séoube, Scube, wood, forest. Tausse, Truc, Truque, Tuc, a steep and lofty peak with large buttresses.

The Defiles and Passes of the mountains for which the word Col is generally applied, bear many other names, of which the following, with their special significations, are the chief:—

Core, a pass on a side range or small lateral chain. Fourgue, Fourquette, Hourque, Hourquette, generally applied to passes on the small side ranges. Pas, a pass difficult of approach. Port, a pass in the principal chain. Porteil, Portillon, Pourtet, passes in the principal or side chains.

APPENDIX D.

GENERAL INFORMATION, AND TABLES OF METRES, GRAMMES, DEGREES, &c. &c.

It would be difficult to speak with too much weight on the subject of bread, especially where invalids are concerned, and that article in the Pyrenees is essentially bad—we might almost say unfit for food. With the exception of Bagnères de Bigorre—and then only when specially ordered—and in the season, Bagnères de Luchon, the bread throughout the mountain resorts is abominably sour. Travellers do eat it, because they have no other, but to invalids it is positively nauseous. In our opinion it is the only real drawback to enjoying a Pyrenean trip! But it would be foolish to bring it into such prominence when we have all along recommended a stay amid these lovely scenes, unless we could suggest a remedy, and the remedy is as simple as, with us, it proved complete. There are several bakers in Pau selling bread as good as one could wish for, and doubtless any of these would be glad to meet the wishes of travellers; in our case we addressed ourselves to Mr. Otto Kern, Vienna Bakery, Rue de la Préfecture, Pau, requesting him to supply us with a certain quantity of bread daily, at whatever place we might be. We had previously decided on our route on broad lines, so that a postcard as a rule was sufficient to give notice of a change in our address; while if a sudden alteration occurred in our plans, a half-franc telegram told him the news, and our bread never failed to be at the right place on the right day. The bread sufficient for four people, carriage thereof, and a trifle for commission (i.e. paper and trouble) cost on an average 2 frs. 50 cents per diem, which was a little over 80 centimes each. Perhaps in time hotel-keepers will resort to this method; in fact, we were assured that it would be so; but in the meantime every traveller is recommended to do so on his own account; though in all other respects he will find most of the hotels throughout the mountains very well found. When once in the Pyrenees, after Pau had been left behind, we found an average price of 10 frs. per day—perhaps a shade less—was what our hotel expenses amounted to; including—coffee and milk, bread and butter, eggs or kidneys or chops for the first breakfast; table d'hôte luncheon and table d'hôte dinner, with a good bedroom not higher than 2nd floor. These prices must be understood as only those of a spring or autumn tour—out of the season—and rather easier than a traveller would pay at many of the hotels if he arrived without having previously written and made terms. We invariably wrote, and at all the hotels marked thus || received every attention, good rooms, good food, and dry beds.

It is difficult to give a hard-and-fast amount per diem as to expenditure, as it depends so much on the drives, excursions, &c.; as above stated 10 frs. per day paid all hotel expenses (including vin ordinaire), and we consider that in the spring, with several excursions, and "a landau and four" for the principal drives—such as Bigorre to Luchon, Lourdes to St. Sauveur, St. Sauveur to Gavarnie, &c. &c.—25 frs. or £1 per day ought to cover the whole daily expense of each person. In the summer of course 35 frs., or even 40 frs., would be required for the same period. Horses and carriages are cheap in the spring, but even then a little judicious bargaining is required, as it is in nearly every transaction, in the Pyrenees.

Jam, marmalade, bloater-paste, and small luxuries of that kind, not excluding whiskey, are difficult to obtain, and it is well to take them all from Pau or Biarritz, wherever the start is made. Bagnères de Bigorre, chez M. Peltier, is fairly well supplied, but other resorts know not the sound of their names! It is also worth knowing that a system of "Parcels Post" is in operation, whereby any moderate-sized parcel can be dispatched from any station for 85 cents, and delivered at any place within reach of the railway or diligence; but it must be understood at the same time that bread will in like manner be delivered only where the railway or diligence runs; if travellers therefore go to places where there is no official communication, they must depute some agent to receive letters or parcels where the diligence last stops, and then forward them by special messenger. This can be done of course, but it will prove costly.

The rate of postage is 2-1/2d. the 15 grammes (a shade over 1/2 oz.), and 2-1/2d. for every additional 15 grammes.

Money orders are issued at all the principal towns to which (see
Appendix A) a post-office belongs.

Telegrams, 1/2 d = 5 cents, per word, the address being charged for the same as the rest; but no telegram can cost less than 50 centimes.

The rate to England is variable; usually 2-1/2 d. per word.

Money is reckoned at 25 frs. to the £1 English, and banknotes or gold will be accepted in nearly all hotels, and circular notes as well, at the larger resorts.

TABLE OF LITRES AND PINTS.

1/2 litre = 7/8 pint. 1 " = 1-3/4 pints. 2 litres = 3-1/2 pints. 4 " = 7 pints. 8 " = 7 quarts.

TABLES OF GRAMMES AND OUNCES.

  29 grammes = 1 oz.
  57 " = 2 oz.
  86 " = 3 oz.
 114 " = 4 oz. = 1/4 lb.
 227 " = 8 oz. = 1/2 lb.
 454 " = 16 oz. = 1 lb.
 908 " = 32 oz. = 2 lbs.
1000 " = 35-1/5 oz. = 2 lbs. 3-1/5 oz.
1 kilogramme = 1000 grammes = 2 lbs. 3-1/5 oz.

TABLE OF CENTIMETRES AND INCHES.

100 centimetres = 1 metre = 39-1/3 inches; 1 centimetre = 2/5 inch as near as possible.

  5 centimetres = 2 inches.
 10 " = 4 "
 15 " = 6 "
 20 " = 8 "
 25 " = 10 "
 30 " = 12 " = 1 foot.
 45 " = 18 " = 1-1/2 feet.
 50 " = 20 " = 1 ft. 8 in.
 60 " = 24 " = 2 feet.
 90 " = 36 " = 3 feet.
100 " = 39-1/3 " = 3 ft. 3-1/3 in.

TABLE OF METRES AND FEET, FOR DETERMINING THE HEIGHT OF MOUNTAINS, &c.

1 metre = 3 ft. 3-1/3 in. as near as possible, without using decimals; but at this computation 2 inches are lost in every 25 metres, which however have been duly supplied in the following table, but the fractions omitted:—

Metres. Ft. in. Metres. Ft. in. Metres. Ft. in..
   1 = 3 3 26 = 85 4 140 = 459 4
   2 = 6 7 27 = 88 7 150 = 492 2
   3 = 9 10 28 = 91 10 160 = 524 11
   4 = 13 1 29 = 95 2 170 = 557 9
   5 = 16 5 30 = 98 8 175 = 574 3
   6 = 19 8 35 = 114 10 180 = 590 7
   7 = 22 11 40 = 131 2 190 = 623 4
   8 = 26 3 45 = 147 7 200 = 656 3
   9 = 29 6 50 = 164 1 300 = 984 4
  10 = 32 9 55 = 180 5 400 = 1,312 6
  11 = 36 1 60 = 196 10 500 = 1,640 7
  12 = 39 4 65 = 213 3 600 = 1,968 8
  13 = 42 7 70 = 229 7 700 = 2,296 9
  14 = 45 11 75 = 246 1 800 = 2,624 10
  15 = 49 2 80 = 262 6 900 = 2,953 0
  16 = 52 5 85 = 278 10 1,000 = 3,281 1
  17 = 55 9 90 = 295 3 2,000 = 6,562 2
  18 = 59 0 95 = 311 8 3,000 = 9,843 3
  19 = 62 3 1OO = 328 2 3,100 = 10,171 5
  20 = 65 7 105 = 344 6 3,200 = 10,499 6
  21 = 68 10 110 = 360 11 3,300 = 10,827 7
  22 = 72 1 115 = 377 4 3,400 = 11,155 8
  23 = 75 5 120 = 393 8 3,500 = 11,483 9
  24 = 78 8 125 = 410 2 4,000 = 13,124 4
  25 = 82 0 130 = 426 6

TABLE OF KILOMETRES AND MILES.

1 kilometre = 1,000 metres = 1,093 yards = 5/8 mile, as nearly as possible, without employing decimals; but at this computation the kilometre gains 11 yards, 40 kilometres gain 1/4 mile, and 160 kilometres gain 1 mile. This gain has been deducted in the following table, and all fractions less than 1/4 omitted:—

Kilos. Miles. Kilos. Miles.

  1 = 5/8 19 = 11-3/4
  2 = 1-1/4 20 = 12-1/4
  3 = 2 30 = 18-1/2
  4 = 2-1/2 40 = 24-3/4
  5 = 3 50 = 31
  6 = 3-3/4 60 = 37
  7 = 4-1/4 70 = 43-1/4
  8 = 5 80 = 55-3/4
  9 = 5-1/2 100 = 62
 10 = 6-1/4 120 = 74-1/4
 11 = 7 160 = 99
 12 = 7-1/2 200 = 123-3/4
 13 = 8 300 = 185-1/2
 14 = 8-3/4 320 = 198
 15 = 9-1/4 400 = 247-1/2
 16 = 10 500 = 309-1/4
 17 = 10-1/2 1,000 = 618-3/4
 18 = 11-1/4

COMPARISON TABLE OF THE CENTIGRADE AND FAHRENHEIT THERMOMETERS.

1° Centigrade = 1-4/5 Fahr.; 5° Cent. = 9° Fahr. It must be understood that, as the freezing-point of Centigrade is Zero and of Fahrenheit 32°, these 32° must be taken into account in all calculations above freezing-point: thus +5° Cent. are equivalent to a temperature of 41° Fahr.

Cent. Fahr. Cent. Fahr.

Below -15 = +3 17 = 63
Zero. -10 = +12 18 = 64
        -5 = +21 19 = 65
         0 = 32 Freezing-point. 20 = 67
         1 = 34 25 = 76
         2 = 36 30 = 85
         3 = 37 35 = 94
         4 = 39 35-1/2 = 95 Blood heat.
         5 = 41 40 = 103
         6 = 43 45 = 112
         7 = 45 50 = 121
         8 = 47 55 = 130
         9 = 48 60 = 139
        10 = 50 65 = 148
        11 = 52 70 = 156
        12 = 54 75 = 165
        13 = 55 80 = 174
        13-1/2 = 56 Temperate. 85 = 183
        14 = 57 90 = 192
        15 = 59 95 = 201
        16 = 61 100 = 210 Boiling-point.

INDEX.

A.

Abbé's song, the, A dirty avalanche, A "double stroke" (St. Sauveur), Adour, basin of, Allée d'Etigny (Luchon), de Barcugna, des Bains, Verte (Barèges), Allées de Cambasque, Amélie-les-Bains, excursions from, general information, hotels at, &c., Amoy, Valley of Ten Thousand Rocks, Ancient church of the Templars (Luz), Anemone vernalis, scarlet, wood, A new "diet of worms," An excited dog-fancier, An extraordinary detachment, Anglêt, Appendix A, B, C, D, Aran, valley of, Arboust, valley of, Arcachon, Arcachon, excursions from, general information, hotels at, Argelès, drive round valley of, excursions from, hotels at, valley of, Argelès-sur-Mer, Arles-sur-Tech, Arlos, Arreau, hotels at and excursions from, Arrens, excursions from, hotels at, Arrieuzé (river), Arroudet, cascade of, Artigues-Tellin, Arudy, Ascent of the Col de Riou, Ascent of the Pic de Bergons, Aspe, valley of, Aspin, col of, Asphodel, Assat, Asté, Atalaya, cape, Auberge du Lys (Luchon), Auch, road of, Aure, valley of, Avajan, Avalanche, a dirty, Avenue de Salut, Ax, road of,

B.

Bagnères de Bigorre to Bagnères de Luchon
Bagnères de Luchon to Barèges
Bagnères de Bigorre
Bagnères de Bigorre, bathing establishment of
Bagnères de Bigorre, excursions from
Bagnères de Bigorre, hotels of
Bagnères de Bigorre, springs of
Bagnères de Luchon to Montrejeau
Bagnères de Luchon to St. Bertrand de Comminges
Bagnères de Luchon
Bagnères de Luchon, baths of
Bagnères de Luchon, casino of
Bagnères de Luchon, excursions from
Bagnères de Luchon, general information
Bagnères de Luchon, hotels at
Ballooning
Barbe de Bouch
Barèges
  " bathing establishment of
  " excursions from
  " hotels of
Barousse, valley of
Basin of Adour
  " Echez
Baths of Amélie
  " Barèges
  " Capvern
  " César
  " Grand Pré
  " Hontalade
  " Le Pré
  " Luchon
  " Luz
  " Marie Thérèse
  " Mauhourat
  " Molitg
  " OEufs
  " Panticosa
  " Pauze Nouveaux
  " " Vieux
  " Petit St. Sauveur
  " Preste
  " Raillère
  " Ste. Marie (near Luchon)
  " St. Sauveur
  " Salut
  " Santé
  " Siradan
  " Vernet
Baudéan
Bayonne
  " general information
  " hotels at
Beaucens, castle of
Bédat
Bee orchids
Béhobie
Bélesten
Bernadette Soubirons
Bétharram
  " bridge near
Betpouey (Barèges)
Biarritz
  " amusements of
  " Cape Atalaya at
  " general information
  " hotels at
  " Port Vieux at
Bidart
Bidassoa
Bielle
Bilhères
Billères (Pau)
Billères plains of,
  " woods of,
Bious-Artigues,
Bishop's arrival, the,
Bizanos,
Black Forest (Bosost),
Black Prince,
Boo-Silhen,
Bordeaux to Arcachon,
Bordeaux to Bagnères de Bigorre,
Bordeaux to Biarritz,
  " to Pau,
Bordeaux,
  " hotels at,
  " steamers to,
  " trains to,
Bordères,
Bosost,
  " chapel of St. Antoine at,
  " church of,
  " Fonda (inn) d'España at,
Box plants,
Brada (mountain),
Bread,
  " arrival of,
Brêche d'Allanz,
  " Fausse,
  " de Roland,
Broussette, valley of,
Bué,
Bugaret (mountain),
  " torrent of,
Burbe, valley of,
Burnished toes,
Butte du Trésor,
Buvette de Minvieille,

C.

Cabaliros, the,
Cabanes du Lys,
Cagots,
Cambo,
  " hotels at,
Campan,
Canine absurdity,
  " feat, a,
Canton, odours of,
Capercailzie,
Capvern,
  " baths of,
  " hotels at,
Carmelites, church of the (Bigorre),
Carnival time (Pau),
Cascade d'Arroudet,
  " de Cérizey,
  " du Coeur,
  " de Discoo,
  " des Eaux Bonnes,
  " d'Enfer,
  " du Groshêtre,
  " de Laressec,
  " de Lassariou,
  " du Lutour,
  " du Marboré,
  " de Montauban,
  " de Pisse-Arros,
  " de Rioumaou,
  " du Serpent,
  " de Sidonie,
  " du Valentin,
Casino (Luchon),
  " (Pau),
  " du Portillon (Luchon),
  " de Roulette (Luchon),
Castel-Géloos,
Castel-Mouly,
Castel-Vieilh (or Castelvieil)
Castets,
Catarabe,
Cat-fight,
Cauterets,
  " baths of,
  " excursions from,
  " Fruitière of,
  " Gorge of,
  " hotels of,
Cazaril,
Cazaux,
Céciré (Bosost),
 " (Superbagnères),
Cemetery, Luz,
 " Pau,
Cercle des Etrangers (Barèges),
Cérizey, cascade of,
Chambre d'Amour (inn),
Chamois,
Chandelles du Marboré,
Chaos, the,
Chapelle de Piétad,
  " de St. Antoine,
  " de St. Exupère,
  " de St. Roch,
  " de Solferino,
Château de Beaucens,
  " de Despourrins,
  " de Géloz,
  " de Miramont,
  " de Ste. Marie,
Chester, resemblance to,
Cheval, Madame,
Chinaougue,
Church of Montauban,
  " Notre Dame, Arreau,
  " Notre Dame, Lourdes,
  " Piétat,
  " St. Jacques, Pau,
  " St. Martin, Pau,
  " St. Savin, Argelès,
  " St. Vincent, Bigorre,
  " Sazos,
  " Soulom,
Chute de Lapaca,
  " la Pique,
Cier de Luchon,
Cierp,
Cirque de Gavarnie,
  " Troumouse,
Clérical sensation,
Coarraze,
Coffre d'Ossau,
Col d'Arbéousse,
  " d'Aspin,
  " d'Aubiste,
  " de Bué
  " d'Estom Soubiran,
  " de Gourzy,
  " de Marie Blanque,
  " de Peyresourde,
  " de Portillon,
  " de Riou,
  " de Tortes,
  " de Tourmalet,
Columbine (aquilegia),
Confirmation at Cauterets,
Coteaux, the (Pau),
Cottin, Madame,
Coumélie (mountain),
Couradilles, the,
Coustous, the,
  " music on the,
Cowslips,
Crabé (bridge),
Crabioules, glacier of,
Crêre d'Ordincède,
"Crocodile of St. Bertrand," the,
Croix de Manse,
  " de Mouguère,
"Cry of the Lourdes Shopkeepers," the,
Cucurlon rock (Biarritz),
Cylindre (du Marboré),

D.

Dax,
  " baths of,
  " hotels at,
Daffodils,
Dangerous footing,
Dear travelling,
Dog-fancier, an excited,
Dragon's-mouth Rock,

E.

Eaux Bonnes, 178; " bathing establishment of, " cascade of, " excursions from, Eaux Bonnes, hotels at, Eaux Chaudes, baths at, excursions from, grotto of, hotels at, Echez, basin of, Echo, wonderful, English Church (Bigorre), Entécade, peak, Espelette, Esplanade des Oeufs, Esquiez, Esterre, "Exhortation to the First Snow,"

F.

Fashion on a donkey,
Fausse Brèche (Gavarnie),
Feather moss,
Females, importunate,
Fête de Payole,
Flight of lizards,
Fontaine de Marnières (Pau)
Fos,
French sportsmen (Pau),
Fuenterabia (Fr. Fontarabie),

G.

Gabas,
Gabrielle d'Estrelle,
Gan,
Garin,
Garonne, river,
  valley of,
Gavarnie,
  Cirque of,
  hotels of,
  Port de,
Gave d'Azun,
Gave de Barèges,
Gave de Bastan,
  Cauterets,
  Gavarnie,
  Héas,
  Lutour,
  Marcadau,
  d'Ossau,
  de Pau,
Gazost-les-Bains,
Gèdre,
  excursions from,
  grotto of,
Géloos, Castel
Gélos,
General information, Appendix D,
Gentians,
Gerde,
Géruzet's marble works,
Ges,
Glacier de Crabioules,
Gorge de Bacheviron,
  Cauterets,
  du Hourat,
Gouffre d'Enfer,
Granges de Gouron,
Grange de la Reine Hortense,
Gripp,
Grocer's opinion, the (Cauterets),
Grotto of Eaux Chaudes,
  Gèdre,
  Lourdes,
  the Néez,
Grust (St. Sauveur),
Guétary,
"Guide's Auction," the,

H.

Héas,
  inn, &c.,
  valley of,
Hendaye,
Hepaticas,
Hermitage of St. Peter (St. Sauveur),
Herrère, stream,
Hospice Civil (Bigorre)
  " de France (Luchon)
  " de Ste. Eugénie (Barèges)
Hôtel d'Angleterre, Argelès
  " Baudot, Eaux Chaudes
  " Beau Séjour (Bigorre)
  " Canton, Luchon
  " de Comminges
  " d'España, Bosost
  " de France, Argelès
  " " Arreau
  " " Eaux Bonnes
  " " St. Sauveur
  " du Parc, Cauterets
  " de Paris, Biarritz
  " de la Poste, Payole
  " " Pierrefitte
  " des Pyrénées, Lourdes
  " " Louvie-Juzon
  " de l'Univers, Luz
  " des Voyageurs, Gavarnie
Houn Blanquo
Hourat, Gorge de
Hungry guardian, a
Hyacinths

I.

"Idyllic Colbert" (Pau)
Importunate females
Irun
Itsatsou
Izeste

J.

Jaca, a
"Jackdaw's Causerie"
Jardin à l'Anglaise (St. Sauveur)
  " Darralde
  " des Quinconces
"Jay of Barèges," the
"Jeannette's Lamb,"
Jonquils
Jurançon

L.

Labassère, a waters of (see Bagneres de Bigorre) La Brune (Cauterets) La Casque du Marboré Lac Bleu " d'Estibaoute " d'Estom " d'Estom Soubiran " de Gaube " Vert "Lady's Farewell to her Asinine Steed," the Lagas, fountain of Lamothe Lapaca, Chute de Laressec, cascade of, Laruns church of inns at Lassariou, cascade of La Tour du Marboré Lès Lescar "Lesson of the Mountains," the Lime-works (Eaux Bonnes) Linaria Liverpool to Bordeaux Lizards, flight of Llanberis Pass, resemblance to London to Bordeaux London to Paris Louderville Lourdes to Argelès " Bareges " Cauterets " Gavarnie " Luz Lourdes to Pierrefitte, St. Sauveur, Lourdes, castle of, chapel of, church of, grotto of, hotels at, panorama of, Loures, inns of, Louron, valley of, Louvie-la-Haute, Louvie-Juzon, Louvie-Soubiron, Luchon (see Bagnères de Luchon) Lunch on the Bergons, Lutour, cascade of, valley of, Luz, hotels at, baths of, Lys, valley of,

M.

Marble Works, Géruzet's,
Marboré, the,
  Cascade du,
  Chandelles du,
  Epaule du,
  La Casque du,
  La Tour du,
"March of the Men of Garlic," the,
Marignac,
Marion, Lake,
Marnières, Fontaine de,
Maucapéra,
Mauléon-Barousse,
  Licharre,
Médiabat, bridge of,
Menu (Cauterets),
  (Payole),
Mill conduits,
Milord, a,
Minvieille, Buvette de,
Molitg,
  baths of, &c.,
  excursions from,
  hotels at,
Monné, Bigorre,
  Cauterets,
  Rouge,
Montagne de Brada,
Mont Arrouye,
Montaigu, Pic de (see Pic)
Montauban,
  church of,
  cascade of,
Mont Bédat,
  Ferrat,
Montgaillard,
Montrejeau,
  buffet of,
Mont Ségu, Bosost,
Morcenx,
Mouguère (cross of),
Mountain rhododendrons,
  violets,
Mouriscot, Lake,
Museum (Luchon),
  (Luz),

N.

Napoleon's pillar (St. Sauveur),
Narcissus,
Nature's voice,
Nay,
Néez, grotto of the,
  stream,
  valley of,
Négresse (station),
Nestalas,
Neste (river),
Nethou, Pic de,
New "diet of worms," a,
Nivelle (river),
Noah's ark landscape, a,

O.

"Old world and the new," the (Pau),
Oloron,
  general information,
  hotels at,
  roads to,
Oo,
Open-air concert,
Ordincède, Crète d',
Orphanage of Notre Dame du Rocher (Luchon),
Orphanage, church of,
Orphéon, the,
Orthez,
Osmunda regalis (fern),
Ossau, Gave d',
  Val d',
Ourous,
"Oxen's Appeal," the,
Oxslips,

P.

Paillole (see Payole) Pagoda Villa, the (Cauterets), Palais de Justice, Pau, Palomières de Gerde, Panorama of Lourdes, Panticosa, hotels at, Parc Beaumont, Pau, du Château, Pau, Paris to Bagnères de Bigorre, Paris to Bordeaux, Paris to Toulouse, Pasages, Pas de l'Echelle, Pas de l'Escalette, Pas de Roland, Pau to Eaux Bonnes and Chaudes, Pau to Lourdes, Pau to Oloron, Pau, I, amusements at, castle of, drives, &c., at, general information, history of, hotels of, Payole, en fête, 136 Peasants and their ways, Peculiar teams, Peguère, the, Peña Blanca, Pêne de l'Heris, Pêne de Montarqué, Perpignan, Perpignan to Amélie, Perpignan to Molitg, Perpignan to Vernet, Perpignan, chief excursions from, hotels at, Peyrehorade, Peyresourde, Col de, Pic d'Antenac, Pic d'Arbizon, Pic d'Ardiden, Pic d'Arrens, Pic d'Aspé, Pic d'Astazou, Pic d'Aubiste, Pic d'Ayré, Pic de Bergons, Pic de Boum, Pic de Bugaret, Pic de Campbieil, Pic de Clarabide, Pic de Crabioules, Pic de Gabiétou, Pic de Gabizos, Pic de Gar, Pic de Gaube, Pic de Ger, Pic de Gourzy, Pic de Labassa, Pic du Lac Grand, Pic de Laruns de Lienz de Litouèse de Maladetta de Maucapéra du Midi d'Arrens (see Pic d'Arrens) du Midi de Bigorre du Midi d'Ossau du Milieu de la Mine de Montaigu (near Bigorre) de Montaigu (near Saint Sauveur) de Néouville de Néré de Néthou Rouge de Pailla de Pez de la Pique de Posets Poujastou Sacroux de Sarradets de Sauvegarde de Soulom de Villelongue de Viscos Picnicking (Pau) Pie de Mars Pierrefitte; hotels at, road to Piétat Pilgrims Piméné, the Pique, valley of Pitton de Tournefort Place Royale, Pau Ste. Eugénie, Biarritz "Plaint of the Weather-beaten Pine," Plateau of the Bious-Artigues Poc (guide) Polygala amara Polygala rosea Pont d'Arrougé de Benquès de Crabé de Desdouroucat d'Enfer (near Eaux Chaudes) d'Enfer (near Luz) d'Espagne de la Hiladère de Lestelle de Nadie Napoléon de Pescadère de Ravi de Sia de Villelongue "Poor Pillicoddy," Port de Gavarnie de Peyresourde (see Col de) de la Picade de Venasque Posets, the Peak Post-office (Luz) Potentilla Pragnères Preste-les-Bains; baths and hotels of, Primula farinosa Promenade Horizontale (Barèges) de l'Impératrice Puyoo Pyramide de Peyrelance Pyrenean dogs prices of treatment of local terms translated, some, songs

Q.

Quairat, Pic
Quatre Moulins de Sia

R.

Railway information and skeleton routes to the Pyrenees,
Ramondia pyrenaïca
Ravin d'Araillé
Rébénac
Red tape
"Riou,"
Rioumaou, cascade of
"Roads up again,"
Rocks at Biarritz
Rue d'Enfer (Luchon)
 " de la Fontaine (Pau)

S.

Saint Antoine, chapel of Aventin
 " Béat
 " Bernard, statue of
 " Bertrand de Comminges to Montrejeau
 " Bertrand de Comminges,
 " " " " cathedral of
 " " " " cloisters of
 " " " " history of
St. Christau,
 " " hotels at
 " Etienne
   Jacques Church (Pau)
 " Jean de Luz
 " " dogs of
 " " general information
 " Laurent de la Salanque
 " Mamet
 " " church of
 " Martin's Church (Pau)
 " Pé
 " Pée
 " Peter's statue (Lourdes)
 " Pierre
St. Sauveur
 " " baths of
 " " excursions from
 " " hotels at
 " Savin
 " Vincent's Church (Bigorre)
Ste. Marie (near Bigorre)
  " (near Oloron)
  " (near St. Laurent)
  " (near Saléchan)
  " baths of
Sakurazawa, memories of
Salies
Saléchan
Salluz (Argelès)
Salut, avenue of
San Sebastian
           " chief features of,
           " hotels at
Sarsaparilla
Sassis (St. Sauveur)
Sazos (St. Sauveur)
Scabii
Sère (Luz)
Serres
Sévignac
Sia
  " bridge of
  " Quatre Moulins de
Sidonie, cascade of
Silver beeches
Siradan
    " valley of
Skeleton routes and railway information
Sketching advice
              " with a donkey-cart
Snow
Some Pyrenean local terms translated
Songs, Pyrenean
Soulom
Soulom, Pic de
Soum de Secugnac
Sour grapes (Pau)
Sourde, valley of
Spanish mules and peasants
Sport, French
"Spring's Bitters and Sweets"
Sugar-loaf Mountain (Gavarnie)
Superbagnères
  view from
Swine-feeding

T.

Tables of centigrade and Fahrenheit thermometers
  of centimetres and inches
  of grammes and ounces
  of kilometres and miles
  of litres and pints
  of metres and feet
Taillon, the
Tapêre (stream)
Tarbes
  road
Templars' church at Luz
"The Abbé's Song"
"The Argelès Shepherd's Reply"
The Bishop's arrival
The Chaos
"The Crocodile of St. Bertrand"
The Couradilles
"The Guide's Auction"
"The Jackdaw's Causerie"
"The Jay of Barèges"
"The Lady's Farewell to her Asinine Steed"
"The Lesson of the Mountains"
"The March of the Men of Garlic"
"The Organ's Tale"
"The Oxen's Appeal"
"The Plaint of the Weather-beaten Pine"
"The Three Cormorants"
The "witch of the hills"
"Three Cormorants," the
Torrent of Bugaret
Toulouse to Perpignan
  road to
Tour des Lacs (Biarritz)
Tour de la Monnaie (Pau)
Tourmalet, Col de
Trained vines
Tramesaïgues
Travellers' troubles
Troumouse, Cirque of
Trous d'Enfer
Tuc de Maupas

U.

Urrugne
Ustaritz

V.

Valcabrère
Val d'Ossau
Valentin (river)
Vallée d'Aran
  d'Arboust
  d'Argelès
  d'Aspe
  d'Aure
  de Barèges
  de Barousse
  de Broussette
  de Campan
  de Garonne
  de Héas
  de l'Hospice
  de Lesponne
  de Lienz
  de Louron
  de Luchon
    history of
Vallée du Lutour
  de Luz
  du Lys
  de Marcadau
  du Néez
  de la Pique
  de Séoube
  de Serris
  de Siradan
  de Sourde (or Soude)
Valley of the Ten Thousand
  Rocks (Amoy)
Venasque
  Port de
Vernet-les-Bains
  baths of
  excursions from
  hotels at
Via Crucis (Bétharram)
Viella (near Barèges)
  (near St. Béat)
Vieuzac
Vignemale, Pic de
Villelongue
  Pic de
Villenave
Vines trained by the roadside
Violets

W.

Washerwomen and their gamps
Wonderful echo
Wood anemones

Y.

Yankee tale, a

Z.

Zinc mines