Two Years with the Natives in the Western Pacific

Published 1913

Preface

This book is a collection of sketches written on lonely evenings during my voyage; some of them have been published in daily papers, and were so kindly received by the public as to encourage me to issue them in book form. In order to retain the freshness of first impressions, the original form has been but slightly changed, and only so much ethnological detail has been added as will help to an understanding of native life. The book does not pretend to give a scientific description of the people of the New Hebrides; that will appear later; it is meant simply to transmit some of the indelible impressions the traveller was privileged to receive,—impressions both stern and sweet. The author will be amply repaid if he succeeds in giving the reader some slight idea of the charm and the terrors of the islands. He will be proud if his words can convey a vision of the incomparable beauty and peacefulness of the glittering lagoon, and of the sublimity of the virgin forest; if the reader can divine the charm of the native when gay and friendly, and his ferocity when gloomy and hostile. I have set down some of the joys and some of the hardships of an explorer’s life; and I received so many kindnesses from all the white colonists I met, that one great object of my writing is to show my gratitude for their friendly help.

First of all, I would mention His Britannic Majesty’s Resident, Mr. Morton King, who followed my studies with the most sympathetic interest, was my most hospitable host, and, I may venture to say, my friend. I would name Mr. Colonna, Résident de France, Judge Alexander in Port Vila, and Captain Harrowell; in Santo, Rev. Father Bochu, the Messrs. Thomas, Mr. Fysh, Mr. Clapcott; in Malo, Mr. M. Wells and Mr. Jacquier; in Vao, Rev. Father Jamond; in Malekula, Rev. F. Paton, Rev. Jaffrays, Mr. Bird and Mr. Fleming; in Ambrym, Rev. Dr. J. J. Bowie, Mr. Stevens, Mr. Decent; in Pentecoste, Mr. Filmer; in Aoba, Mr. Albert and Rev. Grunling; in Tanna, Rev. Macmillan and Dr. Nicholson; in Venua Lava, Mr. Choyer; in Nitendi, Mr. Matthews. I am also indebted to the Anglican missionaries, especially Rev. H. N. Drummond, and to Captain Sinker of the steam yacht Southern Cross, to the supercargo and captains of the steamers of Burns, Philp & Company. There are many more who assisted me in various ways, often at the expense of their own comfort and interest, and not the least of the impressions I took home with me is, that nowhere can one find wider hospitality or friendlier helpfulness than in these islands. This has helped me to forget so many things that do not impress the traveller favourably.

If this book should come under the notice of any of these kind friends, the author would be proud to think that they remember him as pleasantly as he will recall all the friendship he received during his stay in the New Hebrides.

BASLE, April 1913.

Contents

List of Illustrations

1. Shore in Graciosa Bay Frontispiece
2.   Facing page
3. Women From the Reef Islands in Carlisle Bay 3
4. Native Taro Field on Maevo 10
5. Man from Nitendi working the Loom 15
6. A Cannibal before his Hut on Tanna 22
7. Dancing Table near Port Sandwich 31
8. Old Man with Young Wife on Ambrym 40
9. Front of a Chief’s House on Venua Lava 47
10. Man from Nitendi 54
11. Cannibal from Big Nambas 61
12. Woman on Nitendi 70
13. Canoe on Ureparapara 77
14. Dancing-Ground on Vao, with Ancestor Houses 85
15. Dancing-Ground on Vao 93
16. Woman from Tanna 99
17. House Fences on Vao 106
18. Gamal near Port Olry 115
19. Group of Large and Small Drums near Port Sandwich 129
20. View along the Shore of a Coral Island 136
21. Interior of a Gamal on Venua Lava 147
22. Wild Mountain Scenery in the District of the Pygmies 163
23. Irrigated Taro Field on Santo 179
24. Dwelling of a Trader on Ambrym 191
25. View from Hospital—Dip Point 199
26. Women cooking on Ambrym 205
27. Fern Trees on Ambrym 218
28. Group of Drums and Statues on Malekula 227
29. Cooking-House on Aoba 241
30. Fire-Rubbing 244
31. Tattooing on Aoba 251
32. Dwelling-House on Gaua 255
33. Ancestor-House on Gaua 258
34. Drum Concert on Ureparapara 261
35. Interior of a Gamal on Gaua 264
36. Men from Tanna 270
37. Women from Tanna 272
38. Canoe from Nitendi 277
39. Man from Nitendi, Shooting 279
40. Man from Nitendi, with Pearl Shell Nose 284
41. Man from Tucopia 287
42. Map 291