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Up the Orinoco and down the Magdalena

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About This Book

The narrative recounts journeys through Caribbean islands and the lesser‑visited regions bordering the Orinoco and Magdalena rivers, blending firsthand travel observation of climate, landscape, flora and fauna with historical sketches of early Spanish exploration. Descriptive passages detail river navigation, mountain crossings and coastal towns, while contextual essays examine myths such as El Dorado and the impact of colonial expeditions. Episodes alternate between natural description and cultural encounter, highlighting contrasts between populated ports and remote interior wilderness and offering reflective commentary on the gaps and misconceptions in popular knowledge of these regions.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

PARTIAL LIST OF THE WORKS CITED IN THIS VOLUME.

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Harrisse, H. Christophe Colomb. Paris, 1884.

Helps, Sir Arthur. The Spanish Conquest in America. New York, 1900.

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Hettner, Alfred. Reisen in den Columbianischen Anden. Leipzig, 1888.

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INDEX

A

Anaconda, Waterton’s description of, 75

Animals, domestic, in South America, 259;
introduced by the Spaniards, 258, 259;
extinct, 259, 260

Ant-hills, 246

Ants in the tropics, depredations of, 247

Aruac Indians, 95

Augustine, St., Fla., 5

B

Bamboo, many uses of, 339

Bananas, varieties and uses of, 179;
industry in, extent of, 405 et seq.;
as a food, value of, 406, 407;
legends concerning, 418

Barranquilla, importance of, 377, 378

Barrigón, description of, 195 et seq.

Beauvois, E., on traditions regarding Fountain of Youth and River Jordan, 15 et seq.

Belalcazar, Sebastian de, meets Quesada and Federmann on plain of Bogotá, 294–298, 332

Bell-bird, Waterton and Sydney Smith on, 183

Birds, migratory, in the tropics, 249–252

Boats on the Orinoco, 87, 88;
on the Magdalena, 349

Bogotá, foundation of, 285;
location of, 286;
description and population of, 286 et seq.;
schools and scholars of, 300 et seq.

Bolivar, Simon, liberator of South America, 303 et seq.;
estimates of, by Tejera and Larazabel, 304, 305;
opinions of Hippisley and General Holstein concerning, 305–308;
ante-mortem statements of, 311

Brendan, St., in the New World, 13;
vanishing island of, 399, 400

Buccaneers, origin of, 390–392;
skill and courage of, 393, 394;
religion of, 394;
depredations and ferocity of, 395, 396;
secretly encouraged by various governments, 397

Buena Vista, Colombia, view from, 235, 236

Butterflies, tropical, 337, 338

C

Cabuyaro, village on the Meta, 186

Calabash tree, utility of, 179

Callao, Venezuela, mines of, 90, 91

Canoes used by the Indians, 174, 175

Caqueza, experience in, 254;
climate of, 256, 257

Caracas, 41, 42;
compared with Taormina, 42

Carib Indians, 95, 98;
misrepresentations of, 97, 98;
language of, 99–101

Carib fish, remarkable teeth of, 181

Cariben, Raudal de, scenery about, 144

Cartagena, location and past history of, 380–385

Cassiquiare river, first explorer of, 142, 143

Castellanos, Juan de, on the Fountain of Youth, 11, 12;
his work as poet and historian, 139, 299, 318

Castle, Morro, in Havana, 20;
in Santiago, 28

Cayman, numbers of, 366–369

Chibchas. See Muiscas

Chicha, how made and general use of, 333–335

Chinchona trees in Colombia, 231, 232

Churches, large and beautiful, in South America, 260

Ciudad Bolivar, 102;
foundation and description of, 102–107

Colombians of the eastern Cordilleras, characteristics of, 240–244;
of Bogotá, 313

Columbus, Christopher, regards Cuba as Cathay and Española as Japan, 21;
on scenery of Cuba, 23;
notions of, about Española, 29, 30;
remains of, in Cathedral of Santo Domingo, 35–37;
Humboldt’s estimate of, 37;
monument for, 37;
view of, regarding the shape of the earth, 67;
view of, regarding the location of the Garden of Paradise, 68;
experience of, with storms, 386;
visits Costa Rica, 402–404;
at Veragua, 425

Cordillera, eastern, temperature on summit of, 275;
hardships endured by Bolivar’s army while crossing, 276, 277

Costa Rica, origin of name, 402;
scenery in, 408, 409;
railways of, 409, 423, 424;
fruits of, 410, 416–419;
negroes of, 411, 412;
coffee of, 413;
curious beliefs in, 422, 433

Couvade, the, among the Indians of South America, 152 et seq.

Crocodile. See Cayman

Cross, Southern, 101, 102

Cross section of oriental Andes, 326

Crosses, before houses along the Meta, 185, 186

Cuba, regarded as Cathay by Columbus, 21

Curaçao, island of, 38

Curare poison, composition and manufacture of, 169

Currency, Colombian, depreciation of, 314–316

D

Darwin, Charles, on tropical scenery, 83–86;
on extinct mammals in South America, 259

Dobrizhoffer, Padre, on the Couvade among the Indians of South America, 153

Domingo, Santo, city of, 34–37;
cathedral of, 35

E

Egret hunting in South America, 107

Española, introduction of slavery into, 31–34

Esquemeling, historian of the Buccaneers, 391

F

Federmann, Nicholas, expedition of, 238, 239;
place where he crossed the Cordillera, 280;
meets Quesada and Belalcazar on plain of Bogotá, 294–298

Fireflies, brilliancy of, 179, 190

Florida, as described by early explorers, 5, 6;
origin of name, 6, 7;
when discovered, and by whom, 7, 8, 9

Flowers, beauty and abundance of, in the tropics, 180

Flute bird, musical notes of, 184

Fountain of Youth and Juan Ponce de Leon, 9 et seq.;
Gomara, Fontenada and Juan de Castellanos on, 10–12;
Sir John Mandeville regarding, 14

G

Germans in South America, enterprise of, 173, 174, 353;
early attempt of, at colonization, 239

Guaduas, beautiful location of, 339

Guahibos Indians, greatly misrepresented, 170

Guayra, La, port of, 39, 40

Gumilla, Padre, on Indians of Orinoco delta, 78;
account of the moriche palm by, 78, 79

H

Haiti, 29 et seq.

Hammock, general use of, in the tropics, 177

Havana, 20 et seq.

Hohermuth, George—Jorge de Spira—expedition of, 237, 238

Home-builders, in the eastern Cordilleras of Colombia, 244–246

Honda, description of, 346–348

Hospitality of the people in the equatorial regions, 187, 188, 220

Humming-birds, 338

Hütten, Philip von, wanderings of, 238

I

Indians, of Cumana, gentleness of, 47;
former missions among, along the Meta and in Casanare, 155, 156;
simplicity of homes of, 178, 179, 246;
legends and superstitions of, 264–267

J

José, San, capital of Costa Rica, attractions of, 414–416;
people of, 421, 422

K

Keys, Florida, 18, 19

L

Labat, Père, on introduction and use of tobacco, 25;
on language of Caribs, 99–101

Las Casas, Bishop, on cruelty to Indians, 28, 29;
projected commonwealth of, 47, 48;
words from will of, 49;
Fiske’s eulogy on, 49;
diocese of, 387;
Thacher’s eulogy on, 388

Leon, Juan Ponce de, 9 et seq.;
remains of, in Puerto Rico, 38

Lights, mysterious, on the Andes, 191 et seq.

Llanos of Colombia, 202 et seq.;
herds on, 204, 205;
value of pastures of, 205;
accessibility of, 205;
as a region for investment and exploitation, 207;
inhabitants of, 210 et seq.;
poets of, 211, 212;
trails in, 214, 215

Llanos of Venezuela, 126–129;
inhabitants of, 129, 131;
remarkable capture of Spanish gun-boats by Llaneros under Paez, 131

Loneliness in the mountains, 263

M

Magdalena river, description of, 350, 351;
navigation on, 351, 352;
frequent changes in bed of,353, 355;
as commercial highway, 355, 356, 357;
inhabitants in valley of, 358;
scenery along, 358, 359;
fauna in the valley of, 364 et seq.

Main, Spanish, meaning of, 39

Mandeville, Sir John, on Fountain of Youth, 14

Margarita, island of, and its pearl fisheries, 49–53

Martyr, Peter, father of American history, 7;
about Indian dwellings on tree tops, 77

Meta river, size of, 146;
traveling on, 159;
inhabitants along, 160;
beauty of scenery along, 190, 191;
navigability of, 206;
should be open to all vessels, 230

Milk tree, 157

Missions, Indian, 86

Monkey bridges, stories about, 151

Montaña, traveling in, 201, 221

Muiscas, 319 et seq.;
an agricultural people, 320;
commerce of, 321;
civilization and culture of, 322–324;
trails of, 332

Mule, Andean, idiosyncrasies of, 239, 240, 336–337

O

Ocoa river, difficulty in crossing, 222–225

Orchids, beauty and number of species of, in the tropics, 161–163, 359

Ordaz, Diego de, an officer under Cortez, explores the Orinoco, 140–142

Orinoco, delta of, described by Sir Walter Raleigh, 70, 71;
exuberant vegetation of, 75;
stories about Indians having houses on tops of trees in, 76, 78;
exploration of, by A. E. Level, 80, 81;
inhabitants of, 81

Orinoco river, first view of, 72;
magnitude of, 82;
scenery along, 83;
fauna in valley of, 85, 86;
steamers on, 87;
travelers on, 88, 89;
erroneous notions about, 114–119;
insects along, 114;
temperature in valley of, 116, 117;
temperature and turbidity of water of, 133

Orocué, capital of a prefecture, described, 166

P

Palms, number of species and uses of, 78, 79, 203, 204, 371–374

Paradise, Terrestrial, 68, 69, 400, 401

Paramo, defined, 272; flora of, 273;
dangers in, 274

Paria, gulf of, 64 et seq.

Pearl Coast, 46 et seq.

Pirates, 388, 389

Pitch Lake, 62

Platanos, as food in the tropics, 179, 198

Poncho, description and use of, 213, 214

Porpoises, fresh water, 182

Port-of-Spain, botanical garden of, 58–60

Puerto Cabello, 45

Puerto Limon, importance of, 404, 405

Puerto Rico, 38

Q

Quesada, Gonzalo, Jimenez de, 285, 294;
buried in cathedral of Bogotá, 299;
first man of letters of Bogotá, 299, 332;
voyage of, down the Magdalena, 340;
expedition of, to Cundinamarca, difficulty of, 360–362

R

Railways, Colombian, 316, 317, 357, 358

Raleigh, Sir Walter, on the delta of the Orinoco, 71;
account by, of the treasures of Guiana, 93, 94;
remarks of, on winter and summer in the tropics, 120

Rivero, Padre, work of, among the Indians along the Meta, 148 et seq.;
on the couvade among the Indians along the Meta, 152

Rubber plantations in Colombia, 231

S

Sabana de Bogotá, 290, 317–319

Saddle used in Cordilleras, 325

Santiago de Cuba, 28

Sargento, El, magnificent view from summit of, 340–343

Scenery along trail over the eastern Cordilleras, 247–249

Serpent’s Mouth, strait of, described by Columbus, 65

Silla, La, mountain of, 39

Slavery, negro, first introduction of, into America, 31–34

Soto, Hernando de, in Florida, 12

Suma Paz, range of, 278, 279

T

Telegraph, in the tropics, 261

Tequendama, Falls of, 290, 293, 294

Tierra fria, tierra templada, tierra caliente, characteristics of, 270–274

Tobacco, discovery of, 24;
use of, by aborigines of America, 24, 25;
Benzoni, Père Labat, and King James on, 24–26;
value of, as source of revenue to Spain, 27

Trapiche, described, 332

Treasures found by the conquistadores, 363

Trees, remarkable, in the tropics, 156, 157

Trinidad, island of, 54 et seq.;
scenery of, 61, 62;
smugglers in, 63

Turtles, immense numbers of, on the sand banks of the Orinoco, 132

V

Valencia, 45

Varnhagen, M., on the discoveries of Americus Vespucius, 8, 9

Venezuela, reflections on, 134–138;
advantages and natural resources of, 134;
area of, 135;
revolutions in, 135;
future of, 136–139

Vespucius, Americus, discoverer of Florida, 8

Villavicencio, town of, visit to, 225 et seq.

W

Waraus Indians, 94, 95

Welser colony in Venezuela, 239

Wild, call of the, 261, 262

Winds, trade, at summit of the Cordilleras, 269

Women, market, in the Cordilleras, 258

Y

Yuca, as source of food, 180