Vanilla culture as practiced in the Seychelles Islands

To give some notion of how a vanilla plantation is set out and carried on in this colony, it will be convenient to assume that the tree method of planting is the one adopted. A great variety of trees will serve the purpose. Here, on most properties, there is an abundance ready for the work; but of course where this is not the case suitable trees must first be planted. In selecting trees those should be chosen which do not grow too large, but give moderate foliage (about half shade) without ever losing all their leaves at once, and having plenty of branches from 5 to 7 feet from the ground, affording forks enough to train the vines through.

No hard and fast rule can be laid down as to the distance trees should be kept apart. Here formerly, as above stated, vanilla was grown in dense masses with great success for a time. Elsewhere it may be advantageously so grown now. However, it is safe to state that overcrowding in any kind of planting invites disease, and the farther plants are kept apart the more likely are they to remain healthy. A 4-foot radius would be a moderate allowance for the roots of a vigorous vanilla plant, and if 1 foot is kept clear around the circle allowed to each plant’s roots this would give 9 feet as the distance between the trees. It would be difficult to insure the plants being kept distinct in less space. Where suitable trees are already growing on the land to be planted, these can be thinned out if too close, or they may be left in small lots of three or four or more together, a sufficient clear space intervening between each lot; but in that case if one vine of a group showed disease the whole would have to be removed. Many trees stand topping, and it is a great advantage when they do, for on being cut 7 feet or so from the ground branches spring from near the cut part at a convenient height, and the best situated of those can be chosen to train the vines through, the rest that grow awkwardly being removed. About 5 feet from the base is low enough to allow any to grow.

Trees being in readiness, planting may be done at any time of year here. If during a wet spell, vanilla will sprout all the quicker; should it be dry, the plants will delay a little, but there is no fear of their missing if properly planted, and the one danger point to guard is where the vine leaves the earth. This part of the vine is burnt through if not shaded with grass or leaves. However, this also would only mean a little delay in the start of growth; for though they take some time longer about it, vanilla cuttings will grow well enough if merely tied to the trees with their lower ends some inches clear of the ground. Illustrative of the extreme vitality of plants under adverse conditions, it may be mentioned that in neglected plantations, where the vines have been allowed to climb well up into the branches of good-sized trees, and then been broken in attempting to get them down, the broken portions, sometimes partly swinging free, have remained green and capable of growth for upwards of a year, sending down long aerial roots 15 or 20 feet in length, and in some cases where these have escaped injury the broken plant may reestablish connection with the soil and start to grow again. If planted clear of the ground and merely tied to the supporting tree, it is advisable to tie two or three large leaves round each vine for the distance of 3 feet up; thus shaded the aerial roots quickly burst through the stem, and, getting something to cling to at once, soon make their way to earth without injury.

In starting a new vanillery, where the estate has no plants these are readily purchased here at small cost. From 2 to 3 rupees (55 to 90 cents) per 100 fathoms is the usual rate for cuttings, the fathom being what a man can span with outspread arms, a good sweep of the vine hanging in a curve between his hands. Where choice is possible, although oldish cuttings will grow pretty well, it is best to have the plants of recent growth; in fact, growing shoots, cut off close to where they spring from the parent vine, are preferable. At their point of origin the nodes for some distance are close together, and though roots will strike from any joints, they have a natural tendency to do so quicker at the shoot’s base. As to the length of cuttings to plant, opinions differ; but there can be no question that the longer cuttings produce cropping plants sooner than the short ones. If a 2 or 3-foot branch is planted, the shoot it gives is invariably more slender and slower of growth than would be that from a 6-foot cutting, and up to 10 or 12 feet every advantage lies with the longer plants, except the additional expense.

The question as to whether cuttings of that length are to be planted whole or divided into two or three plants should be settled by their cost. It is usual here to loosen the soil with a hoe where vanilla is to be planted, and bury the end, laid horizontally, an inch or two in the earth. Quite as good a way is merely to press the lower part of the plant into the soft soil until it is flush with the surface. On sloping land loosened soil washes away sooner with heavy rain, and in such situations it is best to leave the ground quite undisturbed. In any case the leaves on that part of the vine which rests in or on the ground are cut off fairly close to the stem, and an arm full of leaves, fern, grass, or forest sweepings laid on top to the depth of 3 or 4 inches, for a couple of feet around the plant. Its roots will not need to be mulched for a greater distance than that for some months to come, and to cover a larger area would be useless. As new top dressings are laid on, which must be done when the first supply rots down and becomes thin, these can be gradually extended to allow of more root spread, till the limit of 4 feet radius is reached. If well covered, the roots do not run much; only starved vines run far with their roots, seeking nourishment; where this is plentiful they mat in and beneath it. Being entirely surface feeders, should any make their way beyond the cover they can be gently lifted and tucked under the decaying leaves, etc.; but this is a hint that the plant needs a new supply of top dressing. The number of joints laid on or in the soil will vary with the length of the plant, but should not be less than three for this mode of planting, while for long cuttings six or seven joints are needed for a quick start.

If of sufficient length, the free end of the planted vine is hung through a fork of the supporting tree, but it is also advisable to tie it in two or three places to the tree to hinder swinging and chafing. The material used for these ties here is a fiber called vacoa⁠[1] which rots in about a year, by which time the plants should have tendril-like roots enough to steady themselves. When once properly planted, the cuttings will need little or no attention for some months, but when the growth becomes vigorous the shoots must be looked after. Such of them as have grown clear of their supports are hitched up and, if long enough, hung through one of the forks. An occasional tie here may also be necessary, but in general a leaf or two of the growing part can be hooked on to some other fixed part of the vine, and in a few days, unless blown loose, the tendrils will have fastened to the leaf, and thus support the plant. Shoots must not be allowed to climb very high among branches of the supporting tree, especially if there be many and close together, or there will be breakages in getting them down. For this purpose, when they get beyond hand reach, a forked stick 6 or 7 feet long is useful. The fork is worked between the tree and climbing vine, and its tendrils in succession are broken by pushing and twisting the stick when they are within the fork. The last two or three tendrils are easily broken or leave the tree without breaking, and care should be taken when the vine is nearly clear to catch the stem of it high up, within the stick’s fork; it can then be lowered gently without fear of breaking.

Some judgment is necessary in selecting the fork of the tree through which each shoot is to hang, a fork whose height fits in with a natural bend of the vine, if it has one, being chosen; otherwise one whose height takes the vine between joints is best, since if bent at a joint the vine is apt to snap, especially so when in vigorous growth, being then full of sap and brittle. In good growing weather—i. e., warm, still, and moist—healthy, well-nourished vanilla vines grow very rapidly, an inch per day being no uncommon rate.