| CHAPTER I. |
| FROM PARIS TO BORDEAUX. |
| PAGE |
| Departure from Paris—Subterranean Dwellings—Château Regnault—Tours—Châtellerault—
Angoulême—The Landes—Cubzac—Bordeaux—The Theatre—The Cathedral—
St. Michael's Tower—Mummified Corpses—The Museum | 1 |
| CHAPTER II. |
| FROM BORDEAUX TO VERGARA. |
| The Landes—Arrival at Bayonne—Information for Travellers—Urrugne—
Saint Jean de Luz—Human Smuggling—Bridge over the Bidassoa—Irun—Travelling with Mules—
Primitive Carts—Beggar Children—Spanish Bridges—Oyarzun—Astigarraga—
A Spanish Supper—Puchero—Arrival at Vergara | 11 |
| CHAPTER III. |
| FROM VERGARA TO BURGOS. |
| Vergara—Vittoria: the Baile Nacional and the French Hercules—The Passage of Pancorbo—
The Asses and the Greyhounds—Burgos—A Spanish Fonda—Galley Slaves in Cloaks—
The Cathedral—The Coffer of the Cid | 20 |
| CHAPTER IV. |
| BURGOS—continued. |
| The Cloisters; Paintings and Sculptures—The Cid's House; the Casa del Cordon; the Puerta de Santa
Maria—The Theatre and the Actors—La Cartuja de Miraflores—General Thibaut and the Cid's
bones | 34 |
| CHAPTER V. |
| FROM BURGOS TO MADRID. |
| El Correo Real; the Galeras—Valladolid—San Pablo—A Representation of Hernani—
Santa Maria—Madrid | 47 |
| CHAPTER VI. |
| MADRID. |
| Bull-fights—The Arena—Calesins—Espadas, Chulos, Banderilleros, and Picadores—
Sevilla the Picador—La Estocada a Vuela Pies | 59 |
| CHAPTER VII. |
| MADRID—continued. |
| The Prado—The Mantilla and Fan—The Spanish Type—Water-Merchants; Coffee-houses of
Madrid—Newspapers—The Politicians of the Puerta del Sol—Post-Office—The Houses of
Madrid—Tertullias; Spanish Society—The Teatro del Principe—The Queen's Palace; the Palace
of the Cortes, and the Monument of the Dos de Mayo—The Armeria and El Buen Retiro | 73 |
| CHAPTER VIII. |
| VISIT TO THE ESCURIAL. |
| Aridity and Desolation of the Country—First View of the Escurial—Sombre appearance of the
building—The Church—The blind Cicerone—The Pantheon Pictures—Anecdote of Spanish
Robbers | 103 |
| CHAPTER IX. |
| EXCURSION TO TOLEDO. |
| Illescas—The Puerta del Sol—Toledo—The Alcazar—The Cathedral—The Gregorian
and Mozarabic Ritual—Our Lady of Toledo—San Juan de los Reyes—The Synagogue—
Galiana, Karl, and Bradamant—The Bath of Florinda—The Grotto of Hercules—The Cardinal's
Hospital—Toledo Blades | 113 |
| CHAPTER X. |
| MADRID TO GRANADA. |
| Procession of the Corpus Christi at Madrid—Aranjuez—A Patio Ocaña and its Environs—
Tembleque and its Garters—A Night at Manzanares—
Santa Cruz Knives—The Puerto de los Perros—Colony of Carolina—Baylen—Jaen, its
Cathedral and its Majos—Granada—The Alameda—The Alhambra—The Generalife—
The Albaycin—Life at Granada—The Gitanos—The Carthusian Convent—Santo Domingo—
Ascent of the Mulhacen | 144 |
| CHAPTER XI. |
| FROM GRANADA TO MALAGA. |
| The Robbers and Cosarios of Andalusia—Alhama—Malaga—Travelling Students—
A Bull-Fight—Montes—The Theatre | 208 |
| CHAPTER XII. |
| FROM MALAGA TO SEVILLE. |
| Four-wheeled galera—Caratraca—The "Mayoral"—Ecija—The "Calle de los
Caballeros"—La Carlotta—Cordova—The Archangel Raphael—The Mosque—
Caliph Abderama—The Guadalquiver—Road to Seville | 236 |
| CHAPTER XIII. |
| SEVILLE. |
| Seville—The Cristina—The Torre del Oro—Italica—The Cathedral—The Giralda—
The Alcazar—The Caridad and Don Juan de Marana | 258 |
| CHAPTER XIV. |
| FROM CADIZ TO BARCELONA AND HOME. |
| Cadiz—Visit to the brig "Le Voltigeur"—The Rateros—Jeres—Bull-fights—The
Steamer—Gibraltar—Carthagena—Valencia—The Lonja de Seda—The Convent de la
Merced—The Valencians—Barcelona—The Return to France | 274 |
