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Webster's practical forestry

Chapter 29: CHAPTER XX SHRUBS FOR SHADY SITUATIONS
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About This Book

The handbook provides practical guidance on raising and managing trees for profit and ornament, covering seed collection, propagation, nursery establishment, plantation layout and species selection for varied situations such as exposed ground, seaside, towns, hedgerows and ornamental planting. It treats silvicultural operations including transplanting, thinning, pruning, coppicing, bracing and fencing, and practical concerns like pest and disease control, charcoal manufacture, timber measurement and pricing. It also discusses uses of British-grown timber, utilization of forest waste, and financial and organizational aspects of afforesting waste lands, arguing for systematic planning, state support and improved education for foresters.

CHAPTER XX
SHRUBS FOR SHADY SITUATIONS

The list of procumbent or carpeting shrubs that have been found to succeed when planted beneath the shade and drip of forest trees is by no means a long one, and as the clothing of such bare places is often a point of the greatest importance, particularly in park or ornamental grounds, the following notes may prove useful. By careful manipulation much may be done to carpet such places with suitable shrubs, but the task in some instances is by no means an easy one, and must be set about in a common-sense and practical way. Evidently deciduous trees have an advantage over evergreen kinds in that with the extra light and greater amount of surface dampness undergrowth succeeds better beneath their shade.

The common Ivy is probably the best evergreen carpet for shade planting with which we are acquainted. It runs about and roots freely, soon covering a large space of ground with its neat, deep-green foliage. Propagation is brought about either by means of cuttings or suckers, and is simple and inexpensive.

The Periwinkles (Vinca major and V. minor) are well adapted for planting beneath our larger trees, where, unless the shade is very dense, they succeed admirably, soon forming large breadths of evergreen carpet and producing their deep blue flowers in abundance. They are readily increased by layering or subdivision, and when once established soon spread about unheeded.

The St. John’s Wort (Hypericum calycinum) can confidently be recommended for planting as a ground covering beneath our larger trees. It increases readily, and if occasionally cut over, shoots out all the more freely and thickly. For the showy yellow flowers it is also a desirable shrubby plant.

The Mezereon and Spurge Laurel (Daphne Mezereum and D. Laureola) are excellent, medium-sized shrubs for planting in shady positions, where they not only succeed well, but flower freely. They are both increased by layering.

Euonymus Radicans Variegata is a useful, procumbent shrub for planting in the shade, and succeeds well in smoky localities.

The Butcher’s Broom (Ruscus aculeatus) grows with great freedom beneath the densest shade of our forest trees, and being an evergreen is to be recommended for such situations.

Gaultheria Shallon and G. Procumbens may also be recommended for planting where the shade is not too dense; they both flower and fruit freely, and are of neat procumbent growth.

Amongst taller growing subjects for planting in the shade, mention may be made of the holly and yew, both of which thrive beneath the shade and drip of forest trees and where they often assume a dwarf, procumbent habit of growth. Two at least of the recent shrubs introduced from China have just claims to be included in the list of suitable species for planting in the shade. These are Sarcoccos humile and S. ruscifolia. They are of particularly neat growth, with persistent leaves and bear yellowish-white flowers.

The Common Ling or Heather, Blackberry, and Andromeda Catesbœi all succeed well in the shade of trees, particularly if the soil be inclined to peat.

It frequently happens that the soil beneath large trees is thoroughly exhausted, and that the small, fibrous rootlets are so abundant as to render planting almost impossible. Under such conditions it is advisable to first gently loosen the soil, without disturbing the larger roots, and add a top-dressing of, say, three or four inches of good friable loam. This, thoroughly incorporated with the existing soil, will give the young plants a start and allow of their becoming strong and established before the encroaching roots rob the ground of its nourishment.