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What Norman Saw in the West

Chapter 12: CHAPTER X. FOURTH DAY UPON THE MISSISSIPPI.
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About This Book

A mid-19th-century travel narrative recounts a family's journey from the eastern city to the Great Lakes and Mississippi Valley, offering vivid descriptions of Niagara Falls, river voyages, prairie landscapes, frontier towns, indigenous tales, camp meetings, and port cities. Along the way the narrator records scenes of daily life, natural spectacle, local encounters, and reflections on settlers' hardships and moral impressions. Chapters alternate between detailed sightseeing, river and rail travel, social gatherings, and contemplative pauses before natural wonders, concluding with a return home.

CHAPTER X.
FOURTH DAY UPON THE MISSISSIPPI.

Safely led and guided by pilots who could tell
The pulses of the river, its windings, and its swell;
Who knew its closest secrets, by dark as well as light,
Each bluff and ringing forest, each swamp or looming height.
Mackay.

Early in the morning Winona appeared, surrounded by its protecting hills, reposing, as do most of those pretty towns, in the shadow of the great bluffs, “like peace in the bosom of strength.”

The boat stopped for some time at La Crosse, a very nourishing town. Here Mrs. Lester saw two Indians in blankets and leggings, a sight Norman missed, to his great disappointment. He was at the other end of the boat, too far off to be summoned in time.

The pilot, having just left his watch of six hours, came and invited them to come up to the pilot-house in the afternoon. It was a welcome invitation, for the day was very warm, and the pilot-house, with its cool breeze, and its commanding view of the scenery, was a most desirable place. Norman admired the handsome pilot as, with steadfast eye and erect figure, he stood at the wheel, scanning the waters, and guiding the vessel in the channel, winding round the islands, and from one shore to the other of the great river. Turning the wheel, first to the right, and then to the left, it seems very easy work, a very simple operation; and yet what destinies depend upon those movements; fortune, happiness, life, all involved! Hundreds of human beings pass days of enjoyment and nights of quiet rest because they have faith in their pilot.

And there are men who, as they guide the pen, or utter calm, truthful words, or pray in the deep of their hearts, seem to be doing very little, and yet those pen traces, those simple words, those earnest prayers, may guide hundreds in the perilous voyage of life, may direct their course away from the shoals and snags that threaten destruction, and float them safely to their desired haven.

Norman was greatly mortified at the disabled state of the Grey Eagle, one wing broken, how could she maintain her triumphant flight? Others accustomed to yield the palm, now passed her with ease.

“I hope they know that her paddle-wheel is broken,” said Norman; “just look at those boats; what efforts they are making to pass us!”

Norman watched the boats with great interest, as they put on more steam, and darted past the Grey Eagle, making the landings before her, and carrying off the waiting passengers.

The view, crossing the river from Prairie du Chien, overlooking the islands as they now could from their elevated position, was extremely fine.

The Northern Light and the Grey Eagle met at M’Gregor’s Landing, and the captain of the latter was telling the captain of the former about his broken paddle-wheel and his consequently tardy progress.

“There is a lady trying to speak to you,” said the pilot. On the Northern Light was Mrs. Ralston, with whom Mrs. Lester had intended to journey to St. Paul. Handkerchiefs were waved and mute signals attempted, but the few desired words of explanation were wanting. Near and yet afar off. The boats soon parted for their opposite points of destination, and Mr. and Mrs. Ralston, from the hurricane deck, waved their good-by. Nearly opposite M’Gregor’s landing is the mouth of the Wisconsin River.

“There was a memorable voyage on that river nearly two hundred years ago,” said Mrs. Lester. “Two canoes, containing seven men, floated down these waters, ‘entering happily this great river with a joy that could not be expressed.’”

“Who were they, mother?”

“Father Marquette, the gentle, good missionary; Joliet, a citizen of Quebec, and five Frenchmen, their companions. They had left the Fox River, which flows into Green Bay, and carrying their canoes, they crossed the narrow portage that divides it from the Wisconsin on the 10th of June, 1673. Down the river for seven days, floating in those majestic solitudes, seeing neither man nor beast, passing beautiful prairies, and green hillsides, the discoverers at length reached the great river which they were seeking to find.

“And where did they go then?” asked Norman. “Over these waters the light birch bark canoes floated for about sixty leagues. Then they landed on the western bank of the river, where they saw foot-prints on the shore. They followed them till they came in sight of an Indian village.

“They commended themselves to God, and cried aloud. Four old men advanced to meet them, bearing the calumet, the peace-pipe, adorned with brilliant feathers, and saying, “We are Illinois,” which means, “We are men.” The Indians invited the strangers to their village, prepared a feast in their honor, and entertained them for six days. Several hundred warriors then escorted them to their canoes, hanging around the neck of Marquette, on parting, the calumet, with its plumage of various hues, a pledge of safety for the wanderers among savage tribes.”

“Do go on, mother, and tell me something more about Marquette. I think his adventures are very interesting.”

“I know little more about him, except that he sailed down the river past the Missouri and the Ohio, and that some warlike Indians, armed with clubs, axes, bows and arrows, came out to meet them with the fearful war-whoop. Marquette stood up, holding the sacred peace-pipe, and God touched the hearts of the Indians, so that at the sight of this symbol they threw their bows and arrows into the canoes, and welcomed the strangers.

“On their return they sailed up the river Illinois, through the beautiful prairies. The tribe of Illinois that live on its banks wanted the good missionary to remain with them, and one of their chiefs, with his young men, led the party to Lake Michigan, by way of Chicago. Here Marquette remained to preach to the Miamis north of Chicago, and Joliet returned to Quebec, to announce the discovery of the upper Mississippi.

“And what became of the good Marquette?”

“Two years afterward, as he was going to Mackinaw, he entered a little river in Michigan, which, for a long time afterward, was called by his name. He requested the men who paddled his canoe to carry him ashore. They did so; and there, with no shelter but the little bark cabin which his men hastily erected, he endured great agony. But he seems to have had faith in Christ, and died in great peace. In the gloom of the vast forests he slept to wake again in the green solitudes of the New World. His companions dug his grave on a rising ground near the river, and buried his body, which was afterward taken up by the Indians, and carried with great respect to old Mackinaw, and placed in a little vault of a Catholic church, which has long since disappeared.”

The scenery that on their upward course was vailed in mist and drizzling rain, was now seen in its “fairest, happiest attitude.” Nothing was wanting to “the gentle grace” of that parting day. Purple, crimson, and gold painted the western sky, as the sun sank slowly below the horizon, lighting up a fairy scene on the placid waters of the river. Then, as the onward motion of the boat rudely disturbed the sleeping glory, new combinations of beauty sought to make amends for the loss of the serene picture of the radiant heavens. Golden ripples, a honeycomb of black and gold, lay between them and the wooded banks toward which, as the gorgeous tints now faded on earth and sky, Norman directed his attention.

Rocks, decayed trees and branches covered with moss and lichen, were faithfully mirrored in the waters, giving a kaleidescopic effect to every object. Norman saw, simultaneously with his mother, exquisitely tinted butterflies, insects of green and gray, stone altars, rustic letters, and many other objects. Exclamations of wonder and admiration were echoed from one to the other at some of these marvelous combinations; and it was with reluctance they turned, as the twilight deepened, from the margin of the woodland to the clear outline of the trees against the western sky. There was still room for fancy to sketch her pictures, and call up birds and beasts in that varied outline.

“This is the pleasantest afternoon of all,” cried Norman; “it is so nice for us to be by ourselves.”

“And yet you forsook me first, Norman, and, absorbed in your play, lost the first views of the Mississippi. You said there was a want with children which children alone could supply—a demand of the social nature.”

“I know it, mother; I know that I said so, and I enjoyed those merry games very much; but after all this has been the happiest time.”