PENSHURST
=How to get there.=—Train from Charing Cross, Cannon Street, or
London Bridge. South-Eastern and Chatham Railway.
=Nearest Station.=—Penshurst.
=Distance from London.=—32 miles.
=Average Time.=—1-1/2 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=—Single 5s. 0d. 3s. 3d. 2s. 6d.
Return 8s. 8d. 6s. 2d. 4s. 7d.
=Accommodation Obtainable.=—"Leicester Arms Hotel."
The pleasant little village of Penshurst, situated 6 miles north-west from Tunbridge Wells, is renowned for the beautiful fourteenth-century mansion known as Penshurst Place. From Norman times a house has occupied the site, but the present building did not come into existence until 1349, when Sir John de Poultenay, who was four times Lord Mayor of London, built the present historic seat. Having come into the possession of the Crown, the estate was given by Edward VI. to Sir William Sidney, who had fought at Flodden Field. The unfortunate young King Edward died in the arms of Sir William's son Henry, whose grief was so excessive that he retired to Penshurst and lived there in seclusion. Sir Henry Sidney had three children, one of whom being Sir Philip Sidney, the type of a most gallant knight and perfect gentleman. It was at Penshurst that Edmund Spenser, Sir Philip's friend, wrote his first work, the Shepherd's Calendar, and though Sidney did not actually write his famous poem Arcadia in his beautiful Kentish home, its scenery must have suggested many of the descriptions. Algernon Sidney, who was illegally put to death through Judge Jeffreys, was the nephew of Sir Philip, and he is supposed to be buried in Penshurst Church, though no monument remains. The present owner of Penshurst is Lord De Lisle and Dudley (Sir Philip Charles Sidney (died 1851) was given the peerage in 1835), who allows visitors to view the historic mansion on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Fridays, from 3 P.M. to 6 P.M. (admission 1s.). The great feature of the house is the baronial hall, built in 1341, which has a hearth in the centre of the room. The Queen's drawing-room, said to have been furnished by Queen Elizabeth, contains some interesting Tudor furniture, and the satin tapestry which adorns the walls is also believed to be the work of the virgin queen and her maidens. There are many valuable and interesting portraits of the famous members of the Sidney family. In the beautiful grounds of Penshurst is an oak tree, planted, says tradition, at the time of Sir Philip Sidney's birth.
[Illustration: Photochrom Co., Ltd.
PENSHURST PLACE.
Which was built in 1349, was the home of Sir Philip Sidney.]
ST. MICHAEL'S MOUNT AND MARAZION
=How to get there.=—Train from Paddington. Great Western Rly.
=Nearest Station.=—Marazion.
=Distance from London.=—324-3/4 miles.
=Average Time.=—Varies between 8-1/2 to 11-1/2 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=—Single 50s. 2d. 31s. 6d. 25s. 1d.
Return 87s. 10d. 55s. 0d. 50s. 2d.
=Accommodation Obtainable.=—"Godolphin Hotel," "Marazion Hotel,"
etc.
Marazion, the nearest town to St. Michael's Mount, is situated on the eastern side of Mount's Bay, and was in the Middle Ages a place of some importance, being the headquarters of the pilgrims to St. Michael's Mount. Marazion is connected with St. Michael's Mount by a causeway 120 feet in width, formed of rocks and pebbles, and passable only at low tide for three or four hours.
The mount itself is a remarkable granite rock, about a mile in circumference and 250 feet high. It was referred to by Ptolemy, and is supposed to have been the island Iclis of the Greeks, noticed by Diodorus Siculus as the place near the promontory of Belerium to which the tin, when refined, was brought by the Britons to be exchanged with the Phoenician merchants. Its British name was equivalent to "the grey rock in the woods," a traditional name, apparently confirmed by the discovery of a submarine forest extending for some miles round the base of the mount. The beauty of the spot caused it to be selected by the ancient Britons as a favourite resort for worship, and shortly after the introduction of Christianity it became a place of pilgrimage, and was visited in the fifth century by St. Kelna, a British princess, who founded a hermitage there. Some sort of military defences protected the mount at a very early date, for Edward the Confessor's charter in 1047 to the Benedictine monks, whom he settled here, especially mentions its castella and other buildings.
In Charles II.'s reign the estate was purchased from the Basset family by the St. Aubyns, who still remain its owners. In the castle itself, which crowns the mount, the chief feature is the old hall, now known as the "Chevy Chase" room, from its being adorned with carvings of various field sports. There is some fine old furniture and good pictures. Visitors are allowed to see the principal rooms of the castle when the family are from home, and at all times to see the quaint old Gothic chapel. There is a small fishing village with a pier and harbour at the foot of the rock.
[Illustration: Photochrom Co., Ltd.
ST. MICHAEL'S MOUNT.
The rock is 250 feet in height, and has possessed a castle since 1047.]
ROCHESTER CATHEDRAL
=How to get there.=—Train from Victoria, Holborn Viaduct, or St.
Paul's. South-Eastern and Chatham Railway.
=Nearest Station.=—Rochester.
=Distance from London.=—33 miles.
=Average Time.=—1-1/2 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=—Single 5s. 4d. 3s. 4d. 2s. 8d.
Return 9s. 4d. 6s. 3d. 5s. 4d.
=Accommodation Obtainable.=—"King's Head Hotel," "Royal Victoria,"
"Bull Hotel," "Royal Crown Hotel," etc.
Rochester, a most picturesque old town on the river Medway, has been a place of importance from the earliest times. The cathedral, which is not very impressive externally, and is much surrounded by houses, is best seen from the castle. It was the first church built after Augustine settled in Canterbury, but of this building no trace now remains except some foundations. The Norman Bishop Gundulf in 1080 built a large portion of the Norman work of the present cathedral. In 1201 it was largely rebuilt by money obtained from thank-offerings for miracles wrought by St. William, a baker of Perth, who was murdered near Rochester on his way to Canterbury, and buried in the cathedral. The Norman castle, standing on the banks of the river, was built by Bishop Gundulf, and though it is now in ruins, the interior having been destroyed for its timber, the walls remain firm. The castle was besieged by William Rufus and Simon de Montfort, and on both occasions suffered considerable damage. One of the many interesting buildings in the High Street is the three-gabled house of Watts's Charity, which has become famous from Dickens's Christmas story of The Seven Poor Travellers. According to the inscription above the doorway, Richard Watts in 1579 founded this "Charity for Six Poor Travellers, who not being Rogues or Proctors, may receive gratis for one night, Lodging, Entertainment, and Fourpence each." Restoration House, an old red-brick mansion on the Maidstone Road, is so named from the visit of Charles II. on his way to London in 1660. To all admirers of Charles Dickens, Rochester is full of memories (see Index, Gad's Hill). Not only did Dickens make Rochester the scene of his last unfinished work, Edwin Drood, but he made many allusions to it elsewhere. Mr. Jingle, for instance, in the Pickwick Papers says, "Ah! fine place, glorious pile—frowning walls—tottering arches—dark nooks—crumbling staircases—old cathedral too—earthy smell—pilgrims' feet worn away the old steps."
[Illustration: Photochrom Co., Ltd.
ROCHESTER CATHEDRAL.
A considerable portion was built in 1080 by Bishop Gundulf.]
TUNBRIDGE WELLS
=How to get there.=—Train from Charing Cross, Cannon Street, or
London Bridge. South-Eastern and Chatham Railway.
=Nearest Station.=—Tunbridge Wells.
=Distance from London.=—34-1/2 miles.
=Average Time.=—Varies between 1 to 2 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=—Single 5s. 10d. 3s. 8d. 2s. 8-1/2d.
Return 10s. 0d. 7s. 4d. 5s. 5d.
=Accommodation Obtainable.=—"Spa Hotel," "The Swan Hotel,"
"Castle Hotel," "Carlton Hotel," etc.
=Alternative Route.=—Train from Victoria, Holborn Viaduct, and St.
Paul's. South-Eastern and Chatham Railway.
At the same time that Epsom began to become known as a watering-place, Tunbridge Wells was rapidly growing into a famous inland resort. The wells were discovered by Lord North in 1606, while he was staying at Eridge, and in a few years Tunbridge Wells became the resort of the monied and leisured classes of London and other parts of the kingdom. From that time to this the town has been one of the most popular of England's inland watering-places.
The Tunbridge Wells of to-day is a charming and picturesque town. "The Pantiles," with its row of stately limes in the centre and the colonnade in front of its shops, is unique among English towns. Readers of Thackeray's Virginians will remember his description of the scene on the Pantiles in the time of powdered wigs, silver buckles, and the fearful and wonderful "hoop."
At the end of the Pantiles is the red brick church of King-Charles-the-Martyr, the only one with any claim to antiquity in the town; the rest are all quite modern.
Walks and excursions around Tunbridge Wells are numerous. The common, with its mixture of springy turf, golden gorse, with here and there a bold group of rocks, is one of the most beautiful in the home counties, and in whatever direction one wanders there are long views over far-stretching wooded hills and dales.
Rusthall Common, about a mile from the town, though somewhat smaller than that of Tunbridge Wells, commands more extensive views.
One great feature of interest at Rusthall Common is the group of rocks, of which the largest, the Toad Rock, bears a most singular resemblance to the reptile from which it is named. The High Rocks, situated further on, and just in the county of Sussex, are also very remarkable, rising from 30 to 60 feet in height.
[Illustration: THE TOAD ROCK
On Rusthall Common, Tunbridge Wells.]
[Illustration: Photochrom Co., Ltd.
THE PANTILES, TUNBRIDGE WELLS.]
THE QUINTAIN POST AT OFFHAM AND MALLING ABBEY
=How to get there.=—Train from Victoria, Holborn Viaduct, Ludgate
Hill, or St. Paul's. South-Eastern and Chatham Railway.
=Nearest Station.=—West Malling (1 mile from Offham).
=Distance from London.=—36 miles.
=Average Time.=—1-1/2 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=—Single 5s. 11d. 3s. 9d. 2s. 11-1/2d.
Return 10s. 4d. 7s. 6d. 3s. 11d.
=Accommodation Obtainable.=—"George Hotel" at West Malling.
=Alternative Route.=—None.
On the green at Offham, an out-of-the-way Kentish village, stands the only quintain post in England. It consists of a tall white post, having a spike at the top, upon which revolves a cross-bar. This portion, which turns on the spike, has a fairly broad square end covered with small holes, while at the opposite end hangs a billet of wood.
The pastime consisted in riding on horseback at the broad end and aiming a lance at one of the holes. The rider had to duck his head at the same instant, in order to save himself from the billet which swung round immediately the lance-point caught the opposite end. Only those who were very agile saved themselves from a nasty blow. Instead of a billet, a bag containing sand or mould would sometimes be suspended on the cross-bar. This would swing round with sufficient force to unseat the rider.
This quintain post is undoubtedly one of the most interesting survivals of the pastimes of the "good old days." The owners of the adjoining house have been required to keep the quintain post in a good state of repair, and it is doubtless to this stipulation in the title-deeds of the property that we owe the existence of this unique relic.
The ruins of Malling Abbey, now the property of an Anglican sisterhood, are extremely interesting. The abbey was founded in 1090, and was given to the nun Avicia by the famous Gundulf of Rochester. The keep of St. Leonard, not far from the abbey, was also built by Gundulf, who is responsible for the White Tower of the Tower of London. This St. Leonard's Tower is said to be of earlier character than any keep in Normandy. Permission to see the ruins must be obtained from the abbess or chaplain, and visitors are expected to give a small contribution towards the restoration fund.
[Illustration: OFFHAM.
The Quintain Post on the Green.]
EVERSLEY
THE HOME OF CHARLES KINGSLEY
=How to get there.=—Train from Waterloo. South-Western Railway.
=Nearest Stations.=—Wokingham, 5 miles; Winchfield, 7 miles.
=Distance from London.=—Wokingham, 36-1/2 miles; Winchfield, 39 miles.
=Average Time.=—Wokingham, 2 hours; Winchfield, 1-1/2 hours.
=Fares.=—
Single. Return.
1st 2nd 3rd 1st 2nd 3rd
Wokingham 5s. 6d. 3s. 9d. 3s. 0d. 9s. 0d. 6s. 6d. 6s. 0d.
Winchfield 6s. 6d. 4s. 0d. 3s. 3d. 11s. 6d. 7s. 2d. 6s. 6d.
=Accommodation Obtainable.=—Small village inn at Eversley. "George
Hotel" at Odiham, 2 miles from Winchfield Station; very old
and picturesque.
=Alternative route.=—Train to Wellington College. S.E. and C. Rly.
The drive from Winchfield (7 miles) is chiefly across beautiful heathery commons; from Wokingham the road is more enclosed with hedges. Eversley Church and rectory stand almost alone, save for a farmhouse and barns, being nearly a mile from the other portions of the village. The church is very picturesquely situated on sloping ground, an avenue of yews leading from the lych gate to the porch. Inside, the building has suffered a good deal from restoration, but the pulpit from which Kingsley preached his stirring sermons remains unaltered. The rectory is a very old building which has been modernised on the side fronting on the road. On the lawn stands the group of glorious Scotch firs which Kingsley was never tired of watching. Their boughs sweep downwards and almost touch the grass, and their great red trunks are a strong contrast to the dense green of the surrounding foliage.
In one of the sitting-rooms is a set of drawers in which Kingsley kept a collection of fossils. His grave is on the side of the church yard nearest the overshadowing branches of the Scotch firs. The Runic cross of white marble is a beautiful one. The head is ornamented with a spray of passion flower and bears upon it the words "God is Love." On the base are the words "Amavimus, amamus, amabimus."
The neighbouring district of Bramshill has still the little thatched cottage where Kingsley used to conduct a little simple service on Sunday afternoons. The whole of the country surrounding Bramshill Park is closely covered with self-sown firs, and the commons interspersed among the forest lands are covered with heather and gorse. This was the country Kingsley loved, whether he was riding over it with the local pack of foxhounds or on a visit to one of his parishioners.
[Illustration: EVERSLEY RECTORY.
The scene of the labours of Charles Kingsley.]
FARNHAM, SURREY
THE HOME OF WILLIAM COBBETT
=How to get there.=—Train from Waterloo. South-Western Railway.
=Nearest Station.=—Farnham.
=Distance from London.=—37-3/4 miles.
=Average Time.=—1-1/2 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=—Single 6s. 3d. 4s. 0d. 3s. 1-1/2d.
Return 10s. 0d. 7s. 0d. 6s. 3d.
=Accommodation Obtainable.=—"The Bush," "The Railway Hotel,"
"The Lion and Lamb," etc.
=Alternative Route.=—None.
In 1762 William Cobbett, one of the great writers and reformers of the eighteenth century, was born at Farnham, in Surrey. The house is still standing, and is now known as the "Jolly Farmer" Inn. Cobbett gives a very clear account of his early years at Farnham, and some of his youthful escapades are very amusing. One game which he and two of his brothers were never tired of playing was that of rolling each other like barrels down the very steep sandy hill which one may see rising sharply from the back of the "Jolly Farmer." Cobbett left Farnham for London when he was twenty-one, but often revisited his native town in later years. When he died, in 1835, he was buried in Farnham churchyard. The grave faces the porch on the north side of the church. The Rev. Augustus Toplady, who wrote the universally known hymn "Rock of Ages," was born in a little house in West Street, Farnham, which was rebuilt some years ago.
Overlooking the town from the hills to the north is Farnham Castle, the historic seat of the Bishops of Winchester for many generations past. A portion of the buildings, including the keep, are of Norman origin, the rest having been chiefly built by Bishop Fox in the early part of the sixteenth century. During the Parliamentary war Farnham Castle was for some time the headquarters of the Roundhead army operating in this part of the country, Sir William Waller having overcome the garrison placed there by the High Sheriff of Surrey.
Vernon House, in West Street, is notable by reason of the visit paid to it by Charles I. when on his way to London as a prisoner in the hands of the Parliamentary troops. The silk cap which King Charles presented to his host is still preserved in the house by the present owner, a descendant of the Vernon family.
[Illustration: THE BIRTHPLACE OF WILLIAM COBBETT AT FARNHAM.]
HINDHEAD, SURREY
=How to get there.=—Train from Waterloo. L. and S.W. Railway.
=Nearest Station.=—Haslemere.
=Distance from London.=—43 miles.
=Average Time.=—1-1/2 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=—Single 7s. 2d. 4s. 6d. 3s. 7d.
Return 12s. 6d. 8s. 0d. 6s. 8d.
=Accommodation Obtainable.=—"Old Swan Hotel," "The Hindhead
Beacon," "White Horn Hotel," Haslemere. "Hindhead
Hotel," "Royal Anchor Hotel," Liphook, etc.
The Hindhead district, not long ago one of the wildest in the home counties, has of late been much encroached upon by the erection of modern villas and houses. A few years back there was scarcely a vestige of human habitation to be seen from the road skirting the "Devil's Punchbowl," or the descent on the other side, but since the time Professor Tyndall built his house there, the aspect of the country has been in places considerably changed.
From Haslemere Station one may take a direct road to the Hindhead summit, but the most interesting route is through Shottermill, about a mile distant (see p. 64). From here an easy walk takes one into the main Portsmouth road close to the Seven Thorns Inn, where there is a long ascent to the summit of Hindhead, with its inn, the Royal Huts Hotel. Close by is the village of Grayshott, now fast growing into a place of considerable residential importance. Following the road Londonwards, one arrives in a few hundred yards at the very highest point of the road over Hindhead, after which it drops gently, skirting the magnificent hollow known as the "Devil's Punchbowl." On the left-hand side, in the loneliest part of the road, is the gruesome tombstone which marks the spot where an unknown sailor was murdered and robbed while tramping from Portsmouth to London. This stone and its surroundings, it will be remembered, are mentioned in Nicholas Nickleby, in the account of the walk of Nicholas and Smike from London to Portsmouth. Close by, on the opposite side of the road, there is a rough sandy track—once the old coach road—which leads up to the stone cross on the extreme summit of the Hindhead—900 feet above sea-level—where the murderers of the sailor were executed, and hung in chains. The view from this point, aptly named Gibbet Hill, is quite magnificent for Surrey.
On the northern slope of Blackdown—the high ridge of hills towards the south-east—is Aldworth House, where Tennyson resided in his latter years.
[Illustration: THE PORTSMOUTH ROAD.
Near the highest point, where it crosses Hindhead.]
SHOTTERMILL
THE HOME OF GEORGE ELIOT
=How to get there.=—Train from Waterloo Station. L. and S.W.
Railway.
=Nearest Station.=—Haslemere (1 mile by road from Shottermill
village).
=Distance from London.=—43 miles.
=Average Time.=—From 1-1/2 to 2 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=—Single 7s. 2d. 4s. 6d. 3s. 7d.
Return 12s. 6d. 8s. 0d. 6s. 8d.
=Accommodation Obtainable.=—At Haslemere—"White Horse Hotel,"
"Swan Hotel," etc. "Oakland's Mansion Private Hotel."
This lovely little village, on the slopes of Hindhead, with its breezy uplands, its hills covered with Scotch firs and its undulating tracts of land, so beautiful in the autumn with the glorious purple heather, was much beloved by George Eliot, known to the whole world as the writer of Adam Bede and the Mill on the Floss. In 1871, while Middlemarch was appearing in parts, George Eliot, who as Mr. Lewes said, "never seemed at home except under a broad sweep of sky," spent part of the spring and summer at Brookbank,—an old-fashioned gabled cottage in the village (close to the church) with delightful lattice-paned windows,—belonging to a Mrs. Gilchrist. At this time George Eliot was in a delicate state of health and scarcely equal to finishing her new story. One cannot call it a novel, for it had no plot. It was simply a remarkable picture of provincial life in the first half of the nineteenth century. George Eliot greatly enjoyed her quiet life at Shottermill, although many of her friends thought it incomprehensible that she could endure such a secluded life. One can scarcely read her graphic description of the sweet beauty of a Warwickshire lane, with its hedgerows all radiant in summer beauty, without feeling how much this remarkable woman loved it all, and in some degree one may understand how restful were the village surroundings. They led a most uneventful life, but occasionally would pay a visit to Tennyson, whose house at Aldworth was only 3 miles off. George Eliot rarely went out in the daytime, but sometimes she would go to see some cottagers and have a chat with them. A farmer's wife was greatly astonished at her knowledge of butter-making, and of the growth of fruit and vegetables, little imagining that in her early days, after her mother's death, the great authoress had managed the dairy in her own home at Griff House.
[Illustration: BROOKBANK.
George Eliot's cottage at Shottermill, near Haslemere.]
PENN'S CHAPEL AT THAKEHAM, SUSSEX
=How to get there.=—Train from Victoria or London Bridge. L.B.
and S.C. Railway.
=Nearest Station.=—Billingshurst (3 miles from Thakeham).
=Distance from London.=—44 miles.
=Average Time.=—1-1/2 to 2-1/2 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=—Single 7s. 2d. 4s. 8d. 3s. 6-1/2d.
Return 11s. 5d. 8s. 2d. 7s. 1d.
=Accommodation Obtainable.=—None at Thakeham. "King's Arms"
at Billingshurst.
The little chapel where the great William Penn used to worship when he lived at the old mansion of Warminghurst is so entirely buried in the country that one must make careful inquiries in order to find one's way to it from Billingshurst. When one reaches the cottage at last, one finds a gate right across the road, for beyond it the lane gradually deteriorates to a mere grassy track between hedges. Locally this Thakeham meeting-house is known as the "Blue Idol," a name not altogether explained when one discovers that for a long period the interior of the chapel had blue-washed walls.
As one may see from the drawing given here, it is an exceedingly quaint old building, the portion shown being used as a meeting-house, the other half being a cottage occupied by the family who act as caretakers. The cream-washed walls are broken up by the richly mellowed half-timber work, and above is the roof of grey green Horsham slabs splashed over with bright orange lichen.
Inside there are the very old oaken settles as well as less ancient ones. The timber framing shows on the walls and roof, here, as on the exterior, and the general quaintness of the place is enhanced by the old stone-flagged floor. Of William Penn's house at Warminghurst no traces whatever remain, but this only helps to increase the interest in the little chapel which has remained entirely unaltered for over two centuries. Penn, who bought the house in 1682, probably chose its site on account of its remoteness, for those were the days when their meetings were at any moment liable to interruption—when the members of the congregation met together knowing well that discovery meant imprisonment. In the quaint little meeting-house it is easy to feel the spirit of the Quakers, and one may almost imagine that one hears outside the rumble of the wheels of the heavy ox-waggon in which Penn drove over from Warminghurst Place.
[Illustration: THE OLD CHAPEL AT THAKEHAM NEAR BILLINGSHURST.
Where William Penn used to worship.]
CHAWTON THE HOME OF JANE AUSTEN
=How to get there.=—Train from Waterloo. L. and S.W. Railway.
=Nearest Station.=—Alton (1 mile from Chawton).
=Distance from London.=—46-1/2 miles.
=Average Time.=—Varies between 1-3/4 to 2 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=—Single 7s. 9d. 5s. 0d. 3s. 10-1/2d.
Return 13s. 6d. 8s. 8d. 7s. 9d.
=Accommodation Obtainable.=—At Alton—"Swan Hotel," "Crown
Hotel," etc.
Situated about a mile from Alton Station, on the main line of the South-Western Railway, is the little village of Chawton, the residence of Jane Austen at the time when she was producing her best literary work. A walk along the main Winchester road brings one to the charming old-world place, and, keeping on past the thatched cottages of the village, one reaches a small brick house on the right-hand side, near a pond, just before the road divides for Winchester and Gosport. This building, which is now tenanted by a workman's club, was Chawton Cottage, where Jane Austen spent some of the brightest days of her life, and wrote her most successful novels, books which are more highly appreciated at the present day than they were during the lifetime of the authoress.
Her father was rector of Steventon, another Hampshire village, at which place his daughter was born in 1775, and where her early days were spent. Jane Austen's novels are remarkable for the truthfulness and charm with which they reproduce the everyday life of the upper middle classes in England in her time, and for delicate and yet distinct insight into every variety of the human character. Miss Austen's first four novels, Sense and Sensibility, Pride and Prejudice, Mansfield Park, and Emma, were published anonymously.
A short distance along the Gosport road is Chawton Park, a remarkably fine Elizabethan mansion, occupied in Miss Austen's time by Edward Knight, the lord of the manor. This country seat, which is not accessible to visitors, was most probably the original of Mansfield Park, and in the little church close by are several monuments to the Knight family. Miss Austen died at Winchester on July 24, 1817, and is buried in the cathedral. The brass to her memory is in the north aisle.
Within easy walking distance is Gilbert White's home at Selborne, which is treated under a separate heading (p. 70).
[Illustration: JANE AUSTEN'S COTTAGE AT CHAWTON.
Sense and Sensibility, Pride and Prejudice, and Northanger Abbey were revised and partly rewritten here; and Emma, Mansfield Park, and Persuasion were entirely produced at the cottage.]
SELBORNE
THE HOME OF GILBERT WHITE
=How to get there.=—Train from Waterloo. L. and S.W. Railway.
=Nearest Station.=—Alton (4 miles from Selborne).
=Distance from London.=—46-1/2 miles. East Tisted, 2 miles from Selborne,
shortly to be available.
=Average Time.=—1-3/4 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=—Single 7s. 9d. 5s. 0d. 3s. 10-1/2d.
Return 13s. 6d. 8s. 8d. 7s. 9d.
=Accommodation Obtainable.=—At Alton—"Swan Hotel," "Crown
Hotel," etc.
Selborne, the birthplace of the famous naturalist, Gilbert White, is situated in the extreme eastern corner of the county of Hampshire. A vast chalk hill rises some 300 feet above the south-western side of the village, part of which is covered with an extensive beech wood, called "The Hanger," and a down or sheep-walk. This down is a beautiful park-like spot, with a delightful woodland, now bounded by the Sussex Downs. The village lies at the foot of the chalk hill parallel with the Hanger, and contains only one straggling street, nearly a mile in length, a small rivulet rising at each end. The stream at the north-western end often fails, but the other, known as the "Well-Head," is a fine spring, seldom influenced by drought. Wolmer Forest, near by, is famed for its timber. In the centre of the village, on a piece of ground commonly known as "The Plestor," there stood, until the fearful storm of 1703, a colossal oak tree, with a short body and enormous horizontally spreading arms. The stone steps, with seats above them, surrounding the tree, formed a favourite resort for both old and young during summer evenings. This oak, together with an equally large elm tree, are mentioned by White.
Gilbert White was born in 1720. He began his education at Basingstoke, from whence he proceeded in 1739 to Oriel College, Oxford, and finally became one of the senior proctors of the university in 1752. On his father's death, White became the occupier of his house in Selborne known as "The Wakes," and afterwards became curate of the parish. He never married, but lived a happy and uneventful life, wrapped up in the wonderfully exact observations of nature which were the basis of his numerous letters forming The Natural History of Selborne. His final resting-place is unobtrusively marked by a simple grey stone bearing the initials "G.W.," a monument entirely in keeping with Gilbert White's quiet and retiring nature and refreshingly simple style of writing.
[Illustration: THE WAKES.
Gilbert White's house at Selborne.]
ELSTOW
THE HOME OF JOHN BUNYAN
=How to get there.=—Through train from St. Pancras. Midland Railway.
=Nearest Station.=—Bedford (1 mile from Elstow).
=Distance from London.=—50 miles.
=Average Time.=—An hour.
1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=—Single 6s. 7d. … 3s. 11-1/2d.
Return 13s. 2d. … 7s. 11d.
=Accommodation Obtainable.=—"Embankment Hotel," "Lion Hotel,"
"Swan Hotel," etc., at Bedford.
=Alternative Route.=—Train from Euston. L. and N.W. Railway.
The little village of Elstow, near Bedford, will always be remembered as the birthplace of John Bunyan, and the cottage is still shown where the "immortal dreamer" was born. It was while in Bedford jail for "conscience' sake" that Bunyan ministered to all posterity by writing the Pilgrim's Progress from this World to the World to Come, under the similitude of a dream. As an allegory of the soul's conflicts and struggles with evil in its journey through life, it is unsurpassed. It is believed that no other book except the Bible has gone through so many editions or attained such a popularity in all languages. It has been generally understood that Bunyan's early life was a very profligate one, but some have thought that his terrible self-accusations in after years may have arisen from the height of his religious fervour and Puritan strictness, which made him look on dancing and bell-ringing as deadly sins. This idea is satisfactorily given by Macaulay.
Bunyan was of poor parentage, his father being a tinker. At one time he was in the Parliamentary Army, and in 1645, was present at the siege of Leicester. Having left the army, he married. Then after a time of great spiritual agony and doubt, with quieter intervals, he became a member and then minister of the Baptist congregation at Bedford. His labours were stopped by the Act of Conventicles, and Bunyan was a prisoner in Bedford jail for twelve years. While in prison Bunyan assisted in providing for the wants of his wife and family by making tagged laces. The only books he had during his confinement were the Bible and Foxe's Book of Martyrs. Through the kind interposition of Bishop Barlow of Lincoln, Bunyan was released, and resumed his work of a preacher until his death from fever in London in 1688. Bunyan also wrote the Holy War and Grace Abounding, an autobiographical narrative.
[Illustration: Valentine & Sons, Ltd.
BUNYAN'S COTTAGE AT ELSTOW.
The cottage is structurally the same as in Bunyan's time.]
LEWES, SUSSEX
=How to get there.=—Train from London Bridge or Victoria. London,
Brighton, and South-Coast Railway.
=Nearest Station.=—Lewes.
=Distance from London.=—50 miles.
=Average Time.=—Varies between 1-1/4 to 2-1/4 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=—Single 8s. 6d. 5s. 0d. 4s. 2d.
Return 15s. 0d. 9s. 0d. 8s. 4d.
=Accommodation Obtainable.=—"The White Hart Hotel," "Crown,"
"Commercial," "Temperance Hotel," etc.
Lewes, a prosperous agricultural centre, situated on the Sussex Ouse, is a place of great antiquity, in spite of its present modern appearance. Its early history is vague, but it is known that it was of importance even under the Saxon kings, and was fortified in Alfred's time. William the Conqueror gave Lewes to Earl William de Warenne, who had married Gundrada, said to be the daughter of Queen Matilda and the Conqueror. De Warenne built the castle, or considerably enlarged the old Saxon fortress, which is now in ruins. The castle possessed a curious feature, of which no other examples now remain, in having two keeps, each built upon a mound. Only one of these keeps (admission 6d.) still exists, its towers covered with ivy. From its summit a splendid view of the surrounding country can be obtained towards the chalk bluffs of the South Downs and the valley of the Ouse. The great gateway of the castle still stands, and in Southover, the suburb of Lewes, are the remains of the once large and wealthy Priory of St. Pancras. This was the first Cluniac establishment in England. It was founded by De Warenne and Gundrada, and continued to be of great importance up to the dissolution. Until about sixty years ago the old pigeon-house of the priory, containing 3228 pigeon-holes, was still standing. When excavations were going on during the construction of the railway, which passes through the priory grounds, the workmen came upon two leaden coffins, which were discovered to be those of William de Warenne and his wife. These were removed to Southover Church, and Gundrada's grave has now its original tombstone of black marble, which was found in Isfield Church. On the site of the race-course was fought in 1264 the battle of Lewes, between Henry III. and the insurgent barons, led by Simon de Montfort, Earl of Leicester. There are a few old houses left, and the modern town hall contains a beautiful oak staircase and panelling taken from the old Star Inn.
[Illustration: Photochrom Co., Ltd.
THE BARBICAN AT LEWES CASTLE.
The castle was built by William de Warenne, who had received Lewes from
William the Conqueror.]
BODIAM CASTLE, SUSSEX
=How to get there.=—Train from Charing Cross, Cannon Street, or
London Bridge. South-Eastern and Chatham Railway.
=Nearest Station.=—Robertsbridge (4 miles from Bodiam). From
Robertsbridge take train to Bodiam Station (which is close to
the castle) on Rother Valley Light Railway.
=Distance from London.=—51 miles.
=Average Time.=—Varies between 1-1/2 to 3 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=—Single 8s. 4d. 5s. 3d. 4s. 2-1/2d.
Return 14s. 8d. 10s. 6d. 8s. 5d.
=Accommodation Obtainable.=—"Castle Hotel."
=Alternative Route.=—None.
Bodiam Castle is open to the public every day of the week except Sundays (tickets, obtainable at the keeper's cottage, 6d. each; Thursdays, 1s. each).
There is practically no other moated castle in England which compares with Bodiam in its completeness. It was built about the year 1386, but its usefulness for defensive purposes, in view of the increasing destructiveness of weapons at that time, has been doubted. However, the knight who was responsible for its construction was Sir Edward Dalyngrudge, who fought at both Crecy and Poictiers, and must therefore have seen the primitive forerunner of the modern field-gun in use. The walls of the castle now enclose a grassy quadrangle, to which access is gained through a fine gateway, which still retains its outer iron portcullis. The three others, through which an attacking force was obliged to penetrate, have all disappeared. Although it has been stated that the parliamentary forces under Waller captured Bodiam Castle during the Civil War, it seems to be unlikely that such an attack was ever made; for in March 1645 the property was conveyed by the Earl of Thanet to one Nathaniel Powell of London, who was strongly in favour of the Commonwealth.
Lord Ashcombe, the present owner, has restored the walls very carefully, and the chapel and various private apartments with their fireplaces remain intact.
The castle buildings as a whole are a rectangular block entirely surrounded by the wide moat shown in the illustration. One crosses to the main gateway by a narrow raised pathway. The surface of the water during the summer is generally bright with water-lilies.
Bodiam Church is an Early English structure, now very much restored. It is on the hill, a few minutes' walk from the castle.
[Illustration: BODIAM CASTLE.
One of the most perfect moated castles in England.]
COLCHESTER, ESSEX
=How to get there.=—Train from Liverpool Street. Great Eastern
Railway.
=Nearest Station.=—Colchester.
=Distance from London.=—51-3/4 miles.
=Average Time.=—Varies from 1 hr. 4 m. to 2 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=—Single 9s. 9d. … 4s. 4-1/2d.
Return 14s. 8d. … 8s. 9d.
=Accommodation Obtainable.=—"The George," "Red Lion," "The
Cups," etc.
Modern Colchester is the direct descendant of the ancient British town of Camulodunum, referred to by Tacitus and other Roman historians. Various kings of the Trinobantes seem to have caused much trouble during the early period of the Roman occupation. Cunobelinus, one of their kings, reigned from about 5 B.C. to A.D. 42 or 43, and numerous coins bearing the abbreviated form of his name, CVNO, have been discovered. After his death the Emperor Claudius came over to England, subdued the Trinobantes, and established a Roman colony at Camulodunum. The new colony, under the name of Colonia Victriensis, was, however, attacked by a huge horde of the British under Boadicea in A.D. 61. They slaughtered all the inhabitants and destroyed the temple of Claudius.
The Romans, however, soon turned the tables again on the Britons, and at once surrounded the town with a very strong wall. From this time onwards for several centuries the place was one of the strongest Roman stations in the country. It is not surprising, therefore, that the remains of the Roman occupation at Colchester are the most perfect of the kind in the country. The coins range from Asupa, 6 B.C., to Valentinian, who died A.D. 455, while very great quantities of Roman glass, pottery, and tiles, all sorts of domestic vessels and personal ornaments have been discovered. Some idea of the richness of these finds can be obtained from the collection in the museum in the old Norman castle.
The story of King Coel in connection with Colchester is not altogether accepted by historians, yet there are so many references to it in Anglo-Saxon writings that it cannot be quite ignored.
Colchester suffered terribly in the Civil War, and sustained a fearful siege lasting seventy-six days, the townsfolk and Royalist forces being eventually forced to surrender to Fairfax. The Saxon doorway of Trinity Church, and St. Botolph's Priory, are exceedingly interesting.
[Illustration: COLCHESTER CASTLE.
Which now contains a magnificent collection of the Roman remains found in the town.]
LAYER MARNEY
=How to get there.=—Train from Liverpool Street. Great Eastern Rly.
=Nearest Station.=—Colchester (7 miles from Layer Marney).
=Distance from London.=—51-3/4 miles.
=Average Time.=—Varies between 1 and 2-1/4 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=—Single 9s. 9d. … 4s. 4-1/2d.
Return 14s. 8d. … 8s. 9d.
=Accommodation Obtainable.=—"The Red Lion Hotel," "George
Hotel," "The Cups Hotel," etc., all at Colchester.
The unfinished home of the Marneys rises in lonely grandeur in an out-of-the-way part of Essex. To the north runs the road to Colchester; southwards the ground slopes away in the direction of the Blackwater. The great gateway has stood in these peaceful surroundings quite untouched for 400 years. A small portion of the mansion is by the side of the gateway, and the church with the Marney monuments is further to the left.
Lord Marney fought for Henry VII. in France, and was one of the court counsellors at the time of his son's accession. He became a great favourite with Henry VIII., and was created a baron, besides being made a Knight of the Garter and Captain of the Bodyguard. He came of an old Norman stock, but had not overmuch land. At Layer Marney, his chief estate, he determined to build a fitting abode for himself. It was one of the earliest buildings since Roman times to be built of brick. The terra-cotta mouldings are a peculiar feature. It is thought that Lord Marney brought over Italian workmen to make the terra-cotta, for there is a classic touch about the ornaments. The gateway has two towers, one ivy-clad. The whole structure is strikingly original in style. It was commenced in 1500, but Lord Marney died before the work was done. John, his son, died the next year, and with him the line of Marneys became extinct.
In the church are three monuments of the Marneys. The tomb of Henry, Lord Marney, is in the arch leading to the Marney Chapel, which was founded by him. The figure is of dark marble, clad in armour, and wearing the robes of a Knight of the Garter. An ancestor of Lord Marney, who died in 1414, lies near. The effigy is clothed in mail. The figure of John, the last of the Marneys, is of black marble. There are some curious frescoes in the church, and an oak screen. The interior of the building is probably older than the exterior, which is of about the same date as the towers.
The church keys may be procured at the rectory.
[Illustration: LAYER MARNEY TOWER, ESSEX.
Commenced by the first Lord Marney about the year 1500, but owing to the death of Lord Marney and of his only son, the year following, the buildings were never finished.]
BATTLE ABBEY
=How to get there.=—Train from Charing Cross or Cannon Street.
South-Eastern and Chatham Railway.
=Nearest Station.=—Battle.
=Distance from London.=—55-1/4 miles.
=Average Time.=—Varies between 2-1/2 hours and 1-1/2 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=—Single 9s. 4d. 5s. 10d. 4s. 8-1/2d.
Return 16s. 4d. 11s. 8d. 9s. 5d.
=Accommodation Obtainable.=—"George" and "Star" Hotels.
=Alternative Route.=—None.
Battle Abbey is open to the public on Tuesdays only, between 12 and 4. There is no charge for admission, tickets being obtained from the stationer's shop bearing the name Ticehurst. It is situated close to the main entrance to the abbey. The great gateway through which one enters is illustrated here. It was probably built by Abbot Retlynge in the first half of the fourteenth century. The original abbey was built in fulfilment of a vow which William the Norman made just before the battle of Senlac Hill, the building being arranged so that the high altar was placed on the exact spot where the body of Harold II. was discovered on the awful field of slaughter. The sixty monks who started the monastery were brought over by William from the Benedictine monastery of Marmontier in Normandy. They were granted many extraordinary privileges, including the right of treasure-trove. A further privilege was given to the abbots in the form of authority to pardon any sentenced criminal whom they might chance to meet on the road. The abbey was not completed until after the death of William the Conqueror.
On the left, as one goes through the great gateway, are the portions of the abbey which have been converted into the house which was, until her death, the home of the Duchess of Cleveland. At right angles to these buildings runs a terrace, from which one looks towards the sea across the battlefield on which was decided one of the most momentous issues which have affected the English nation.
One must have read Lord Lytton's Harold to fully realise the tremendous pathos of the struggle to the death between the English and the Normans. The green facing the great gateway has half hidden on its surface an old bull ring. In wet weather this is scarcely discoverable, the ring being easily hidden in the small puddles of water which accumulate.
[Illustration: Photochrom Co., Ltd.
THE GATEWAY OF BATTLE ABBEY.
The high altar of Battle Abbey was placed exactly over the spot where the body of Harold II. was discovered after the battle of Senlac Hill.]
CAMBRIDGE
=How to get there.=—Train from St. Pancras or Liverpool Street.
Great Eastern Railway.
=Nearest Station.=—Cambridge.
=Distance from London.=—55-3/4 miles.
=Average Time.=—Varies between 1-1/4 and 2-1/2 hours. Quickest train,
1 h. 13 m.
1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=—Single 8s. 9d. … 4s. 7-1/2d.
Return 15s. 10d. … 9s. 3d.
=Accommodation Obtainable.=—"Bull Hotel," "Lion Hotel,"
"University Arms Hotel," "Hoop Hotel," "Bath Hotel," etc.
=Alternative Routes=.—From Euston by L. and N.W. Railway.
From King's Cross, Great Northern Railway. From St.
Pancras, Midland Railway.
Cambridge shares with its sister university, Oxford, the honour of being one of the two most ancient seats of learning in Great Britain. The town itself is of very remote origin, and stands on the site of the Roman station Camboricum, on the Via Devana. By the Saxons, Cambridge appears to have been known as Grantabrycge, which was probably later abbreviated into Cantbrigge. The true history of the town as a university began at the opening of the twelfth century, when Joffred, Abbot of Crowland, sent over to Cottenham, near Cambridge, four monks, who, in a hired barn, started their teachings, which soon became excessively popular. The first regular society of students was founded in 1257.
Cambridge abounds in features of interest and contains a large number of old churches, perhaps the most interesting being that of St. Sepulchre, one of the four circular churches remaining in England. This church, which is in Bridge Street, was erected in the reign of Henry I., and founded, like the one at Northampton, by the Knights Templars in imitation of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem.
The colleges are, of course, the glory of Cambridge, and one is almost bewildered by the beauty and variety of their architecture. King's College Chapel is one of the most magnificent examples in the town, but nearly all the more important collegiate buildings are beautiful types of mediaeval work. The visitor should on no account omit to walk through the "Backs," which is the 'varsity term for the backs of the colleges, with the "Fellows' Gardens" reaching down to the quiet Cam. The Great Court, Trinity College, is one of the most imposing of the numerous quadrangles, and is the largest of any at either Oxford or Cambridge. The Master's Lodge here is the residence of the sovereign on all royal visits.
[Illustration: Photochrom Co., Ltd.
ST. JOHN'S GATEWAY, CAMBRIDGE.]
ARUNDEL CASTLE
=How to get there.=—Trains from Victoria and London Bridge. By
London, Brighton, and South Coast Railway.
=Nearest Station.=—Arundel.
=Distance from London.=—58-1/4 miles.
=Average Time.=—2 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=—Single 9s. 2d. 6s. 0d. 4s. 8d.
Return 14s. 10d. 10s. 7d. 9s. 4d.
=Accommodation Obtainable.=—"Norfolk Hotel," "Eagle Inn,"
"Bridge Hotel," "Granville Boarding House," etc.
The interior of the castle is not shown to visitors without special permission from the Duke of Norfolk, the keep alone being thrown open to all on Mondays and Fridays between 12 and 4 P.M.—tickets being obtained at the Norfolk Hotel. The park, however, is open to the public.
The town of Arundel is one of the oldest and most beautifully situated in Sussex, that county of ancient towns, and its castle, a wonderful feudal fortress, was originally bequeathed by Alfred the Great to his nephew Adhelm. After the Conquest, it came into the possession of Roger de Montgomery, who rebuilt it, and in 1097 it was held for a short time by William II. It was at Arundel Castle that Adeliza, the widow of Henry I., entertained Queen Maud in 1139. The castle came afterwards to the Fitzalans, and from them by marriage to the Howard family, who still hold it. It was the object of several fierce attacks during the Parliamentary War, for having been captured by Waller and garrisoned for the Parliament, it was retaken by the Royalists under Lord Hopton, and soon after taken once more by Waller. The castle was much damaged by all these assaults, and was almost in ruins at the commencement of the last century, when it was taken in hand and restored by the then Duke of Norfolk. Of the ancient buildings, the keep, the entrance gateway, and parts of the walls, are all that now remain. The keep or Bevis Tower is an old Norman structure with walls 8 to 10 feet thick, having in the centre the castle dungeon, reached by a narrow staircase in the wall. The restoration was made as much as possible in conformity with the style of the old fortress, and the interior is a good example of modern Gothic art, the new chapel being an interesting example of this. The Baron's Hall, with its open chestnut roof and stained-glass windows, is perhaps one of the most striking features in the castle.
A fine stone bridge of three arches connects the two portions of the town. It spans the river Arun, which is navigable up to Arundel for vessels of 150 tons burden.
[Illustration: Photochrom Co., Ltd.
ARUNDEL CASTLE.
Built soon after the Conquest by Roger de Montgomery. It was much damaged during the Parliamentary War, but was repaired by a former Duke of Norfolk early in the 19th century.]
OLNEY, BUCKS
THE HOME OF COWPER
=How to get there.=—Train from St. Pancras. Change trains at Bedford.
Midland Railway.
=Nearest Station.=—Olney.
=Distance from London.=—60-1/2 miles.
=Average Time.=—1-1/2 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=—Single 8s. 1d. … 4s. 9-1/2d.
Return 16s. 2d. … 9s. 7d.
=Accommodation Obtainable.=—"Bull Hotel," etc.
Olney was for a period the home of the delicate and sensitive poet William Cowper, who was born at the parsonage of Great Berkhampstead. His father was chaplain to George II. Cowper lost his mother at a very early age, and the sad event made a deep impression on his mind. In after years he wrote a poem addressed to his mother's portrait which it is said has drawn more tears than any other poem in the English language. Cowper was sent to school at six years of age, but was very unhappy there, and it laid the foundation of that settled gloom which oppressed him all through life. When Cowper had finished his studies at the Westminster School he commenced the study of law, and was afterwards called to the bar; but he never practised, for he hated law. Cowper was offered several appointments, but failed in examinations for them from extreme nervousness. By the kindness of friends an income was secured for him and he went to reside at Huntingdon. Here he formed an acquaintance with Mrs. Unwin, the "Mary" of his poems, which ripened into deepest friendship. He enjoyed much tranquil happiness during the time of his residence with the Unwin family.
When Cowper and his friends moved to Olney they lived in the old-fashioned regular fronted house illustrated opposite. Here Cowper is said to have amused himself with his hares and in the making of boxes and tables. He was also interested in the bees in the old-fashioned garden at the back of the house, where one may still see the little rustic summer-house in which John Gilpin and some of the Task were written. The house now contains a Cowper museum, and visitors thus have an opportunity of seeing the parlour and other rooms, besides many other interesting objects connected with the poet. His great friend at Olney was the Rev. John Newton. They were constantly together in their walks, in their homes, and at church, and both wrote a number of hymns.
[Illustration: Thornborough.
COWPER'S HOME AT OLNEY.
The house now contains a Cowper museum.]
WANTAGE AND THE COUNTRY OF ALFRED THE GREAT
=How to get there.=—Train from Paddington. Great Western Rly.
=Nearest Station.=—Wantage Road.
=Distance from London.=—60-1/2 miles.
=Average Time.=—Varies between 1-1/2 to 2-3/4 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=—Single 10s. 0d. 6s. 4d. 5s. 0-1/2d.
Return 17s. 8d. 11s. 0d. 10s. 1d.
=Accommodation Obtainable.=—Good posting and hotels. "Bear
Hotel" and "Blue Boar."
The chalk ridge in the north of Berkshire is rich in memories of Alfred. First in importance is Wantage, a peaceful town at the foot of the hills, and famous as the birthplace of the great king. There is a statue by Count Gleichen in the wide market-place representing Alfred with a battle-axe and a charter in his hands. The church is a fine example of Early English architecture, and interesting besides as the burying-place of many famous Fitz-warens, among them Ivo, whose daughter married Richard Whittington, Lord Mayor of London. Dr. Butler of The Analogy was born in the town, and the house is still to be seen.
Leaving Wantage, one may go along the breezy downs to Uffington Castle, a large fort, presumably of British origin. It was one of many similar forts along the Roman way called Ichenilde Street, that stretches straight as an arrow along the whole ridge. Near the fort is the famous White Horse cut in the chalk, which, since its recent cleansing, gleams brilliantly from the hillside. It was cut out to commemorate the magnificent victory of Ethelred the Unready and Alfred over the Danes at Ashdown in 871. Readers of Tom Brown's School Days will recall the story of the Berkshire revels in 1857, when the scouring of the Horse took place. Judge Hughes was born here, under the shadow of the downs, and near by is the round hill where tradition says St. George slew the dragon.
In Kenilworth Sir Walter Scott has immortalised Wayland Smith's Cave, a neolithic burial-place of some ancient chieftain which lies to the west of Uffington Castle. It is a circle of stone slabs with flat stones on the top. Wayland was the "Vulcan" of the men of the north, and Alfred, in one of his translations, altered the "Fabricius" of the Roman account into the northern "Wayland," the fairy smith who replaced lost shoes on horses. It was in this cave that Scott made Flibbertigibbet play tricks on Tressilian.
[Illustration: THE STATUE OF ALFRED THE GREAT AT WANTAGE.
It was designed by Count Gleichen.]
CANTERBURY AND ITS CATHEDRAL
=How to get there.=—Train from Victoria, Holborn Viaduct, Charing
Cross, or Cannon Street. South-Eastern and Chatham Railway.
=Nearest Station.=—Canterbury (East).
=Distance from London.=—61-3/4 miles.
=Average Time.=—Varies between 1-3/4 to 2-3/4 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=—Single 10s. 4d. 6s. 6d. 5s. 2d.
Return 18s. 0d. 13s. 0d. 10s. 4d.
=Accommodation Obtainable.=—"County Hotel," "The Fleece
Family and Commercial Hotel," Baker's "Temperance Hotel,"
"The Royal Fountain Hotel," "Falstaff Hotel," etc.
The city of Canterbury, originally an important station in Watling Street, the Durovernum of the Romans, was one of the earliest places occupied by the Saxons, by whom it was named Cantwarabyrig, or "town of the Kentish men," and made the capital of the Saxon kingdom of Kent, and a royal residence. About 597 the abbey was founded by St. Augustine and his royal convert King Ethelbert. Canterbury was then constituted the seat of the primacy in England, a dignity it retains to this day.
At the period of the Norman Conquest the city was of considerable size, and the castle, of which very little now remains, is reputed to be the work of William the Conqueror. The cathedral was burnt down at least twice before the present building was erected, but under the influence of the Norman archbishops, Lanfranc and Anselm, the erection of the new "Church of Christ" proceeded apace. But it was not until the end of the twelfth century that the murder of Becket set the whole of Europe ringing with excitement, and Canterbury rose at once into the front rank as an ecclesiastical city and pilgrims' shrine.
At the time when Chaucer wrote his Canterbury Tales the city was surrounded by a strong wall with twenty-one towers and six gates. Of the wall there are some remains in Broad Street; of the gates "West Gate," through which the pilgrims entered from London, is the only survivor.
Canterbury teems with interesting relics of the past, and weeks may be spent in its old-world streets, where one is continually coming across unexpected little bits of half-timber work, weather-beaten gables, and grotesque oak carving. The cathedral, whose "Bell Harry" or central tower seems to dominate the whole city, should be approached through Mercery Lane, at the corner of which are some slight remains of Chaucer's hostelry, "The Chequers of Hope." At the bottom of the lane the cathedral close is entered by the famous Christ Church Gateway, erected by Prior Goldstone in 1517. Once inside the close gate the visitor gets some idea of the amazing beauty of the structure, which is certainly unsurpassed by any other cathedral in the kingdom. The building exhibits almost every style of architecture, from the Norman work of William of Lens to the late Perpendicular of Prior Goldstone, and yet the work of composition and design has been so exquisitely carried out that there is no hint of any want of harmony in the magnificent whole. The interior is no less remarkable, the arches and vaulting of the nave being some of the most beautiful in existence. Becket's shrine was despoiled at the Reformation, but the number of pilgrims who visited it may be imagined from the fact that the broad stone steps are worn hollow, and this only by the knees of his worshippers. The Angel doorway in the cloisters, by which the archbishop entered the sacred building pursued by his murderers, gives access on to the north-west or martyrdom transept. Here is shown the spot where the primate made his last stand and fell under the blows of the Norman knights. Another object of special interest is the tomb of Edward, the Black Prince, who died in the city in 1376. There is so much to see in and about the cathedral and its precincts, however, that a trustworthy guide-book is a sine qua non. The building is open from 9.30 to the end of evening service—the nave and two west transepts free; the choir and crypt, 6d. each person. Sketching orders, 2s. 6d. per day, and photographing orders, 5s. per day.
In the city itself the most interesting of the old churches is St. Martin's, reputed to be the oldest in England (admission, 6d.). Here St. Augustine first preached Christianity before the cathedral was built. St. Martin's Hill, near the church, should be noticed. It was over this ascent that Augustine with his Roman monks passed into Canterbury in 697.
In Monastery Street is the fine gateway of the once rich and powerful St. Augustine's Abbey; and near it, not many years ago, was a fine example of Saxon work, known as Ethelbert's Tower, which some of the intelligent busybodies of the time had removed with a battering-ram.
In Broad Street is the Hospital of St. John, with its quaint entrance and fine old timbered gateway.
The Grammar School, known as the King's School, was founded at the close of the seventh century. The most remarkable portion of what remains of the old buildings is an almost unique Norman staircase.
[Illustration: THE WEST GATE, CANTERBURY.
The only one left standing of the six in existence in the days of
Chaucer.]
[Illustration: Photochrom Co., Ltd.
THE TRANSEPT OF MARTYRDOM.
In Canterbury Cathedral.]