BELVOIR CASTLE
THE SEAT OF THE DUKE OF RUTLAND
=How to get there.=—Train from King's Cross. Great Northern Rly.
=Nearest Station.=—Grantham (7 miles from Belvoir Castle).
=Distance from London.=—105-1/4 miles.
=Average Time.=—Varies between 2 and 2-3/4 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=—Single 15s. 10d. … 8s. 9d.
Return 31s. 8d. … 17s. 6d.
=Accommodation Obtainable.=—"Angel Hotel," etc., at Grantham.
=Alternative Route.=—None.
Belvoir Castle, the Leicestershire seat of the Duke of Rutland, stands on a lofty eminence, commanding a magnificent view over the rich vale of Belvoir. It was originally founded by Robert de Todeni, a Norman noble, and a standard-bearer to William the Conqueror. In the reign of Henry III. the property passed to Robert de Roos, and in the time of Henry VIII. to the family of Manners, who have held it ever since. The building suffered much damage during the Wars of the Roses and the Parliamentary Civil War. James I. was entertained there in 1603, on his way from Scotland to London, by Roger, the fifth Earl. In 1814, George IV., then Prince Regent, visited the castle, in commemoration of which one of the towers was named Regent Tower. In 1816, alterations were being carried out in the interior, under the direction of James Wyatt, the architect, when a fire broke out and almost entirely destroyed the castle. The picture gallery and the grand staircase perished utterly, and the damage was reckoned at £120,000. The final restoration was completed by Matthew Wyatt, who succeeded in building one of the finest palaces in the length and breadth of England. One of the features of the mansion is a magnificent picture gallery in which hang priceless works by Nicolas Poussin, Claude, Murillo, Reynolds, Gainsborough, and other old masters. The name "Belvoir" is derived from the magnificent prospects lying around it in all directions, the view extending over the level country for 30 miles; more than 170 towns and villages are visible within its horizon. The castle is situated in the midst of a fine sporting country, the Belvoir hounds being one of the finest packs in the country.
Near the mansion, and below it, are some remains of a priory also founded by the Norman owner, Robert de Todeni, about 1076. This priory was dedicated to St. Mary, and was annexed to the Abbey of St. Albans.
[Illustration: G.W. Wilson & Co.
BELVOIR CASTLE.
It was originally founded by Robert de Todeni, a standard-bearer to
William the Conqueror.]
BATH
=How to get there.=—Train from Paddington. Great Western Rly.
=Nearest Station.=—Bath.
=Distance from London.=—107 miles.
=Average Time.=—2-1/2 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=—Single 17s. 10d. 11s. 2d. 8s. 11d.
Return 31s. 3d. 19s. 6d. 17s. 10d.
=Accommodation Obtainable.=—"Empire Hotel," "Pulteney Hotel,"
"York House Family Hotel," "Royal Station Hotel," "Railway
Hotel," "Waldron's Private Hotel," etc.
=Alternative Route.=—Train from Waterloo. South-Western Railway.
Bath, one of the largest towns in Somersetshire, is beautifully situated on the Avon in a wooded valley in the north-east of the county. The city is of great antiquity, and was one of the most powerful Roman stations, being at the intersection of two very important roads,—the Fosse Way, which extended from the coast of Devonshire to the north-east coast of Lincolnshire, and the Via Julia, the great road between London and Wales. The story of the British king Bladud and his connection with Bath is immortalised in the Pickwick Papers, but is more or less legendary; however, as to the greatness of the city during the Roman occupation there is ample evidence. Even in those times the great natural feature of the place was its mineral waters, and in the first century the Romans built some luxurious baths there, and now the extensive remains have made the place notable. The Saxons quaintly named the city Akeman Ceaster, or town of invalids.
In the original Abbey Church took place the coronation of King Edgar as King of England by the famous St. Dunstan, Archbishop of Canterbury. This church stands on the site of the old conventual church, on the spot where once stood the Roman temple of Minerva. It was rebuilt in the fifteenth century by Bishop Oliver King, and completed by Bishop Montague at the beginning of the seventeenth century. On the west front are sculptures representing the angels upon Jacob's Ladder, and the whole building teems with interest; but the original purity of its architecture has been much marred by faulty and ignorant restoration.
Till the middle of the eighteenth century Bath covered no larger area than that contained within the Roman walls, but Queen Anne and Prince George of Denmark having conceived a great partiality for the place, and the medicinal quality of the waters being much advocated, the city rapidly grew in favour and size, until it reached its heyday in the time of Beau Nash and the Prince Regent.
[Illustration: Photochrom Co., Ltd.
THE RESTORED ROMAN BATH AT BATH.
The bases of the columns are chiefly untouched Roman work.]
BOSTON AND THE PILGRIM FATHERS
=How to get there.=—Train from King's Cross. Great Northern Rly.
=Nearest Station.=—Boston.
=Distance from London.=—107-1/4 miles.
=Average Time.=—3 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=—Single 15s. 4d. … 8s. 11d.
Return 30s. 8d. … 17s. 10d.
=Accommodation Obtainable.=—"Peacock and Royal," "Red Lion"
Hotels, etc.
=Alternative Route.=—None.
The English Boston, which gave its name to the great American seaport, was at one time—although it is hard to believe—of as relatively great importance as its mighty namesake of to-day. In the time of Edward III. it was considered the third most important town in England, for during that reign it contributed no fewer than seventeen ships to the great fleet which was raised by Edward III. But Boston declined through its river—the Witham—becoming scarcely navigable for more than small ships, and after a time was placed on the list of decayed seaports. At the present time it should be mentioned that its trade is steadily reviving.
The town has a quiet, old-fashioned aspect, and many of its houses date from the days when the Pilgrim Fathers made their first attempt to leave England. The very first effort failed, through the treachery of the captain of the vessel in which they were to take passage. They suffered a month's imprisonment, but shortly afterwards made another attempt to get away from the coast on a Dutch ship. This was only partially successful, for William Brewster and a few others only, reached Amsterdam, the women and the rest of the party having fallen into the hands of a detachment of soldiers. Brewster, however, by untiring efforts got all the rest over to Holland.
It was in 1620 that the Pilgrim Fathers finally set out on their voyage to America. (See Index, Plymouth.) The greatest glory of Boston is "The Stump," the highly unsuitable name given to its magnificent church tower, 300 feet high, and a landmark all over the surrounding fen-lands and even out at sea. It seems strangely slight when one is standing within the tower and notices that no floor breaks the great sweep of walls for a great height. The large perpendicular windows also help to give an impression of frailty. The foundation stone, however, was laid as long ago as 1309, and the structure is not so many years younger.
[Illustration: BOSTON, LINCOLNSHIRE.
From whence the Pilgrim Fathers sailed in the Mayflower.]
WARWICK
=How to get there.=—Train from Paddington. Great Western Railway.
=Nearest Station.=—Warwick.
=Distance from London.=—108 miles.
=Average Time.=—Varies between 2-1/2 to 3-1/2 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=—Single 15s. 3d. 10s. 2d. 8s. 1-1/2d.
Return 28s. 3d. 17s. 10d. 16s. 3d.
=Accommodation Obtainable.=—"Warwick Arms Hotel," "Woolpack
Hotel," "Globe Hotel," etc.
A charge of one shilling is made for admission to Warwick Castle, the gardens and state apartments being shown to visitors.
Warwick is a small but historic town, charmingly situated on the River Avon, and dominated by its castle, one of the very few baronial castles still remaining entire. The town was destroyed by the Danes, but it was rebuilt by King Alfred's Ethelfleda, who also built a fortress on an artificial mound, overlooking the river. By the orders of William I. the castle was enlarged, and afterwards given by the Conqueror to Henry de Newburgh, whom he made the first Earl of Warwick of the Norman line. The castle was of such strength that when, in the reign of Henry III., it became the property of Margery, sister of Thomas de Newburgh, she was informed that she would not be allowed to marry any one in whom the king had not great confidence. The castle afterwards passed into the hands of the Beauchamps, in whose family it remained until 1445, when the heiress, Anne, married Richard Neville, the "King-maker," who took the title of Earl of Warwick. The title without the estates was given by James I. to Robert, Lord Rich. The castle was given to Sir Fulke Greville, afterwards Lord Brooke. In 1759, when Edward Rich died without issue, Francis Greville was made Earl of Warwick, with whose descendants the estates have since remained. The entrance to the castle is along a winding road cut for more than 100 yards out of the solid rock. The castle as it now stands is a splendid specimen of the fourteenth-century stronghold built in the transition period, when the mere fortress was being superseded by a building of more grace and comfort. St. Mary's Church in Warwick was rebuilt in the reign of Queen Anne, the former church, built by Thomas Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, having been destroyed by fire in 1694. Guy's Cliff, situated 1-1/4 miles from Warwick, is a most picturesque spot, and is celebrated, according to tradition, as the retreat of Guy of Warwick.
A charge of threepence each person (no fee less than sixpence) is made, for admission to St. Mary's Church.
[Illustration: Photochrom Co., Ltd.
WARWICK CASTLE ON THE AVON.
One of the very few baronial castles still remaining entire.]
GLOUCESTER AND ITS CATHEDRAL
=How to get there.=—Train from Paddington. Great Western Rly.
=Nearest Station.=—Gloucester.
=Distance from London.=—114 miles.
=Average Time.=—Varies between 2-3/4 to 3-1/2 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=—Single 19s. 0d. 12s. 0d. 9s. 6d.
Return 33s. 3d. 21s. 0d. …
=Accommodation Obtainable.=—"Bell Hotel," "New Inn Hotel,"
"The Wellington Hotel," and others.
=Alternative Route.=—None.
Gloucester is one of the most thriving cities in the south of England. It has been a town of some description from quite early times, for the British had a fortress on the site which the Romans are believed to have occupied as a strong position on the road into Wales. The Danes repeatedly made incursions into this part of the country, and Gloucester suffered very much from their ravages; but probably through the fact that the kings of Mercia instituted a palace and priory there, the city seems to have had sufficient strength to recover after each disaster. Gloucester was even of sufficient importance for Edward the Confessor to have kept his courts there for a considerable time. Being in the west country, it naturally suffered severely during the parliamentary struggle, and a great portion of the city was destroyed. But although the town lost many of its old buildings at this time, it has still a good deal of antiquity to boast, and for this reason alone is attractive to the stranger. Its main streets are modelled on the Roman plan of a cross, the four arms bearing the names North, South, East and West-gate Streets.
The cathedral is not many minutes' walk from the railway station, and is remarkable for its influence upon the English architecture which succeeded it, for it directed the course of the curvilinear movement in the direction of the Perpendicular style of Gothic. After remaining uncopied for a few years, the new style spread over the length and breadth of England. The east window is remarkable as being one of the largest in the world. Portions of the cathedral may possibly date from pre-Norman days, but according to the records, the earliest date is 1088. The tower was completed in 1518, and is with the cloisters almost without equal in this country for beauty and perfection. The cathedral contains the tomb of Osric, King of Northumbria, which was recently opened and found to contain the bones within a wooden coffin.
[Illustration: Photochrom Co., Ltd.
GLOUCESTER CATHEDRAL.
Showing the east window, which is one of the largest in the world.]
NORFOLK BROADS
=How to get there.=—Train from Liverpool Street. Gt. Eastern Rly.
=Nearest Station.=—Norwich.
=Distance from London.=—114 miles.
=Average Time.—Varies between 2-1/2 to 4-1/4 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=—Single 20s. 6d. … 9s. 5-1/2d.
Return 31s. 10d. … 18s. 11d.
=Accommodation Obtainable.=—Norwich—"Royal Family Hotel,"
"Maid's Head." Yarmouth—"Royal," "Queen's," etc. Cantley—"Red
House Hotel." Brundall—"Yare Hotel."
=Alternative Route.=—To Norwich from King's Cross, Great Northern
Railway. Train to Great Yarmouth, Lowestoft, Beccles, Cantley,
Reedham, etc., from Liverpool Street, Great Eastern Railway.
The charm of the Norfolk Broads consists to a great extent in the fact that they present different scenery to almost any other county in England, although the salt marshes of Essex and Suffolk possess the family likeness obtaining throughout East Anglia. The Norfolk Broads occupy the stretch of country north of a line drawn between Norwich and Yarmouth, and both towns offer great advantages for getting into the Broad country. A "broad," it should be mentioned, is a local name for a shallow lake connected with others, and finally with the sea by such rivers as the Yare, the Bure, or Ant. These rivers and their various tributaries form excellent sailing grounds, for after tacking for some time in a rush-fringed river, one suddenly enjoys the contrast of a broad lagoon where there is plenty of space to sail more freely.
The separate characteristics of the different broads give a choice of surroundings capable of satisfying every one. Oulton Broad, for instance, is generally to be found full of smart yachts, while Heigham forms a contrast in its solemn loneliness. Wroxham Broad is always bright with white sails going to or from Surlingham, Rockland, or Salhouse Broads. The last mentioned a beautiful piece of water, the quieter portions of its surface being generally thick with yellow iris and purple loosestrife and many other species of water herb. It is shaded by trees, and makes charming pictures from many points of view. Crome, it is said, commenced a picture of this broad on the day of his death, and anticipated that it would be his best work.
Irstead is another beautiful broad surrounded by feathery reeds and thick with rushes where kingfishers and wild duck are to be found. The ruins of St. Benet's Abbey are an interesting feature along the river Bure. Within the monastic walls a windmill has been built, and this too is now an old ruin, having lost its sails many years ago.
[Illustration: Photochrom Co., Ltd.
AMONG THE NORFOLK BROADS.
A typical scene on one of the rivers connecting the broads.]
NORWICH CATHEDRAL
=How to get there.=—Train from Liverpool Station via Colchester.
Great Eastern Railway.
=Nearest Station.=—Norwich.
=Distance from London.=—114 miles.
=Average Time.=—Varies between 2-1/2 to 4-1/4 hours. Quickest train 2
hours 32 minutes.
1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=—Single 20s. 6d. … 9s. 5-1/2d.
Return 31s. 10d. … 18s. 11d.
=Accommodation Obtainable.=—"Royal Family Hotel," "Maid's
Head Hotel," "Bell Hotel," etc.
=Alternative Route.=—Train from King's Cross. Great Northern Rly.
The city of Norwich has a unique charm from its combination of the mediaeval with the modern, and "improvements" so called have not spoilt it. The chief object of interest is the cathedral, which was founded in 1094 by Bishop Herbert Losinga, who was at one time prior at Fécamp in Normandy, and chaplain to William II. It is regarded as one of the greatest existing examples of Norman work, and has the finest cloisters in England. It is 411 feet long and 191 feet broad at the transepts, and is crowned with a spire second only to that of Salisbury. Near the cathedral are a number of ancient and interesting structures more or less in ruins. Chief of these may be mentioned St. Ethelbert's and the Erpingham Gate, by the west front of the cathedral, the former in Decorated English, the latter in Late Perpendicular, and both are valuable and rich specimens of these styles. It was Sir Thomas Erpingham whom Henry V. in Shakespeare's play addresses as "Good old Knight," and it was he who gave the signal to the English at the Battle of Agincourt, saying, as he threw up his truncheon, "Now, strike!"
Norwich occupies a place in history from the time of the earlier Danish invasions. First its castle was erected as a stronghold by the East Anglican kings, and resorted to as a place of safety by the inhabitants, who gave it the name of North-wic, or northern station or town. The bishopric of the East Angles was removed hither in 1094, when the magnificent cathedral was founded. Evelyn in his Diary gives an account of a visit he paid to that famous scholar and physician, Dr. Thomas Browne, author of the Religio Medici and Vulgar Errors, then living in Norwich. It is a pleasant picture of the fine old cathedral town which he gives. After seeing all the rare curiosities in Sir Thomas Browne's house, he was shown all the remarkable places of the city, and speaks of the "venerable cathedrall, the stately churches, and the cleannesse of the streetes."
[Illustration: Photochrom Co., Ltd.
NORWICH CATHEDRAL.
It was founded in 1094, and is considered one of the finest examples of
Norman architecture.]
LICHFIELD
THE BIRTHPLACE OF DR. JOHNSON
=How to get there.=—Train from Euston. L. and N.W. Railway.
=Nearest Station.=—Lichfield.
=Distance from London.=—118 miles.
=Average Time.=—Varies between 2 to 3-3/4 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=—Single 16s. 9d. 10s. 9d. 9s. 8-1/2d.
Return 33s. 6d. 21s. 5d. 19s. 5d.
=Accommodation Obtainable.=—"Swan Hotel," "George Hotel," etc.
Lichfield, though an ancient town, has now a modern appearance, but is interesting on account of its beautiful cathedral and its association with Dr. Johnson. The house where the "great lexicographer" was born is still to be seen in the market-place, very little altered from its original condition. Next to this house is the Three Crowns Inn, where Dr. Johnson and Boswell stayed when they visited Lichfield in 1776. Among the few old houses that are remaining are St. John's Hospital, rebuilt in 1495, and the Friary, part of an establishment of Grey Friars, now forming a portion of a private house.
Lichfield has been a bishop's see since Anglo-Saxon times, and among its earliest bishops was St. Chad, who advanced Christianity in England. For a short period Lichfield boasted an archbishop, during the reign of Offa, king of Mercia, who persuaded the Pope to grant his kingdom this honour. No trace of any Anglo-Saxon building is left, and of the Norman church that was next erected only the west part of the choir remains. The present cathedral, built in the Early English style of Gothic, was commenced about 1200, and was not finished until 1325, builders being employed all the time. Though numbered among the smaller cathedrals, Lichfield is very beautiful, possessing a great charm in the ruddiness of the stone used in its construction. Its most striking features are the three graceful spires, the sculptured west front, and the large Lady Chapel. Owing, unfortunately, to its being fortified, the cathedral suffered much damage when besieged by the Roundheads during the Civil War. Windows and statues were broken, brass stripped from the tombs, registers burned, but the worst calamity was the destruction of the central tower. After the Restoration the cathedral was carefully repaired, greatly due to the efforts of good Bishop Hacket, who spent his time and money upon the work. The central spire was rebuilt by Sir Christopher Wren.
[Illustration: Photochrom Co., Ltd.
LICHFIELD CATHEDRAL.
Showing the richly-sculptured west front, and the central tower rebuilt by Sir Christopher Wren.]
SHERBORNE AND ITS ABBEY CHURCH
=How to get there.=—Train from Waterloo, via Salisbury. L. and
S.W. Railway.
=Nearest Station.=—Sherborne.
=Distance from London.=—118 miles.
=Average Time.=—Varies between 3-1/4 to 6 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=—Single 19s. 8d. 12s. 4d. 9s. 10d.
Return 34s. 6d. 21s. 6d. 19s. 8d.
=Accommodation Obtainable.=—"Digby Hotel," "Antelope," "Half
Moon," etc.
Sherborne is full of archaeological interest, for besides its wonderful Abbey Church, it has the ruins of its castle on a rocky height at the east end of the town and a good number of ancient houses. The town itself is situated on the side of a hill sloping down to the Yeo, and has a clean and quaint aspect. About 705, it was chosen as the seat of a bishopric. The see was removed to Old Sarum in 1078, but the castle continued to be used as an episcopal residence until it was besieged by Stephen, when it became Crown property. The Abbey Church of St. Mary the Virgin is Norman in origin, but it has been so rebuilt and remodelled that it is now practically Perpendicular. The whole church, with the exception of the Lady Chapel, was very carefully restored between 1848 and 1851.
Adjoining the Abbey Church, at the west end, are the remains of the parochial church of Alhalows, a three-aisled church in Decorated or Early Perpendicular style. The monks and the parishioners had many quarrels, one resulting in a fire which destroyed much of the abbey. The Abbey Church was granted by Henry VIII. to Sir John Horsley, who sold it to the parish for £250. There being no further use for Alhalows Church, it was taken down.
The exterior of Sherborne Church has been called unpicturesque, owing to its low central tower and insignificant pinnacles. It is, however, a huge building, and its interior is so richly decorated that it more resembles a cathedral than a parish church. It possesses the finest fan-vault in existence, covered with gilded bosses and heraldic arms. Contrasting with this wonderful richness of decoration are three plain Norman arches.
The nave is divided into five bays by panelled arches, the irregular widths of which are due to the fact that the Norman arches are cased in with Perpendicular work. The south transept has a wonderful roof of black Irish oak.
[Illustration: Photochrom Co., Ltd.
SHERBORNE ABBEY CHURCH.
It contains Norman work and some of the finest fan-vaulting in existence.]
NEWARK
=How to get there.=—Train from King's Cross. Great Northern Rly.
=Nearest Station.=—Newark.
=Distance from London.=—120 miles.
=Average Time.=—Varies between 2-1/2 to 3-1/4 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=—Single 17s. 6d. … 10s.
Return 35s. 0d. … 20s.
=Accommodation Obtainable.=—"The Ram Hotel," "Clinton Arms,"
"Saracen's Head," "White Hart," "Swan and Salmon," etc.
=Alternative Routes.=—Train from Euston, via Market Harboro',
L. and N.W. Railway. Train from St. Pancras, Midland Rly.
Newark-upon-Trent is believed by some antiquaries to have been built in Roman times; others state its origin to have been Saxon, but the first absolutely certain record of it is in the time of Edward the Confessor. The castle, which was built in the reign of Stephen, stands on the bank of the river, and on that side is still tolerably perfect. Of the interior nothing remains except the foundations of a great hall, probably built in later times than the rest of the fortress. A flight of steps leads from the hall to the crypt beneath, which has loop-holes looking towards the river. The eastern wall has disappeared, but those remaining are fairly intact. The architecture of the castle varies, part being Norman, and other portions dating from before the Parliamentary War. The space enclosed by the castle walls is now used for a bowling-green, and also as a large cattle-market.
During King John's reign the castle was besieged by the Barons, and John, coming to relieve them, was taken ill and died there in 1216. During the reign of Henry III. the fortress, which had been taken from the See of Lincoln by Stephen, was restored, and remained ecclesiastical property until the reign of Edward VI.
In the time of Charles I. the castle sustained several sieges. It was at Newark that Charles I. was deserted by his nephews Rupert and Maurice, after his defeat at Naseby. The king withdrew to Oxford at the approach of the Scots and Parliamentary armies, and Newark was besieged by the Scots. After the king's surrender in 1646, Newark was delivered up by his orders, and the fortifications, which were 2-1/4 miles long, were destroyed by the Parliamentary troops.
Newark Parish Church is built chiefly in the Perpendicular style, but contains some traces of Norman work. In the town there are also the remains of a chapel of an ancient hospital of the Knights Templars, some walls of an Augustine priory, and a Gothic cross.
[Illustration: Photochrom Co., Ltd.
NEWARK CASTLE.
King John died here, and in the Parliamentary War the castle underwent several sieges.]
WELLS AND ITS CATHEDRAL
=How to get there.=—Train from Paddington. Great Western Railway.
=Nearest Station.=—Wells.
=Distance from London.=—120-3/4 miles.
=Average Time.=—Varies between 3-3/4 to 5-3/4 hours.
=Fares.=—Via Chippenham and Westbury.
1st 2nd 3rd Single 20s. 0d. 12s. 6d. 10s. 0-1/2d. Return 35s. 2d. 22s. 0d. 20s. 0d.
Via Yatton—
Single 24s. 8d. 15s. 6d. 12s. 4d.
Return 41s. 0d. 27s. 0d. 24s. 8d.
=Accommodation Obtainable.=—"Swan Hotel," "Mitre Hotel,"
"Star Hotel," etc.
=Alternative Route.=—Train from Waterloo. L. and S.W. Railway.
Wells is essentially an ecclesiastical town. It has no history of its own, no great family has ever lived there, and it has no manufactures,—it has simply grown up round the cathedral. For these reasons the quiet little Somersetshire town has preserved much of its antiquity and fascination. The presence of the natural wells, which still are to be found in the gardens of the Bishop's Palace, probably induced King Ina in 704 to found a college of secular canons. Here a monastery grew, and subsequently became a bishop's see. John de Villula transferred his seat to Bath in (circa) 1092, and in 1139 the title was altered to Bishop of Bath and Wells. Wells is one of the smallest of the English cathedrals, and is in many ways the most beautiful. The clear space in front emphasises the glorious way in which the three massive towers harmonise with the ruins of the Bishop's Palace, the remains of the Vicar's Close, and the chapter-house. The present building was commenced in 1121, but Bishop Joceline of Wells (1206-1242) rebuilt it from the middle of the choir to the west end. The Early English work shows considerable differences to that in Salisbury and Ely Cathedrals, being carried out by a local school of masons, who show considerable originality in design. The glory of Wells is centred in its west front. The deep buttresses on the towers cast shadows which only serve to show up the marvellous sculptured figures of saints and kings, which may represent a Te Deum in stone. The inside of the cathedral is remarkable for the inverted arches which were put in the chancel to support the towers. Bishop Beckington built the three arches to the close.
A charge of 6d. is made for admission to the choir of the cathedral.
[Illustration: F. Frith & Co.
WELLS CATHEDRAL.
Commenced in 1121, but chiefly rebuilt between 1206 and 1242. It is one of the smallest cathedrals in England.]
STRATFORD-ON-AVON
THE BIRTHPLACE OF SHAKESPEARE
=How to get there.=—Train from Paddington. Great Western Railway.
=Nearest Station.=—Stratford-on-Avon.
=Distance from London.=—121-1/2 miles.
=Average Time.=—Varies between 3 to 4-3/4 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=—Single 16s. 0d. 10s. 6d. 8s. 5d.
Return 29s. 3d. 18s. 6d. 16s. 10d.
=Accommodation Obtainable.=—"Red Horse Hotel," "Shakespeare
Hotel," "Golden Lion Hotel," "Red Lion," etc.
=Alternative Route.=—Train from Euston. L. and N.W. Railway.
Stratford-on-Avon, a picturesque town situated on the river Avon, in Warwickshire, is visited yearly by thousands of people desirous of seeing the birthplace of William Shakespeare. John Shakespeare, the father of William, bought the two half-timbered houses in Henley Street, where he practised his trade of wool-stapler, and it was in one of these houses that William Shakespeare was born in 1564. These houses are now practically in their original condition, although at one time the wool-shop was turned into an inn. The desk, said to have been used by Shakespeare when at school, is to be seen in the former wool-shop, now converted into a museum. The King Edward VI. Grammar School, to which Shakespeare went, occupies the first floor of the old Guildhall, built in the thirteenth century, but much altered in the fifteenth century. It was in this Guildhall that Shakespeare saw for the first time a theatrical performance given by travelling players. Close to the Guildhall is the site of New Place, which was bought by Shakespeare. Only the foundations of this house remain, as in 1753 the owner, the Rev. Francis Gastrell, being angry at having to pay some rates, was not content with cutting down the famous mulberry tree planted by the poet, but caused the whole house to be razed and the materials sold.
The Church of Holy Trinity, most beautifully situated on the river Avon, is cruciform in plan. In the chancel is Shakespeare's grave, with the stone slab having the well-known lines:—
GOOD FREND, FOR IESVS SAKE FORBEARE, TO DIGG THE DUST ENCLOASED HEARE; BLESTE BE YE MAN YT SPARES THES STONES, AND CVRST BE HE YT MOVES MY BONES.
At Shottery, one mile from Stratford, is the half-timbered cottage where
Anne Hathaway, the wife of Shakespeare, was born.
[Illustration: Valentine & Sons, Ltd.
TRINITY CHURCH, STRATFORD-ON-AVON.
From the river. In the chancel is Shakespeare's grave.]
BURNHAM THORPE, NORFOLK
THE BIRTHPLACE OF NELSON
=How to get there.=—Train from Liverpool Street or St. Pancras. Great
Eastern Railway.
=Nearest Station.=—Burnham Market (1 mile from Burnham Thorpe).
=Distance from London.=—122 miles.
=Average Time.=—Varies between 3-3/4 and 4-1/2 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=—Single 19s. 10d. … 10s. 3d.
Return 34s. 0d. … 20s. 4d.
=Accommodation Obtainable.=—"Hoste Arms" at Burnham Market.
Burnham Thorpe, the native village of the great Admiral Nelson, is within walking distance of either Holkham, Burnham Market, or Wells-next-the-Sea. Horatio Nelson, the fourth son of Edmund and Catherine Nelson, was born on September 29, 1758, at the Parsonage House, which has unfortunately been pulled down. There are, however, many interesting relics of Nelson in the village church, and it is interesting to see the surroundings among which Nelson's childhood was passed. In the parish register may be seen the signature of Nelson as a witness to a marriage in the year 1769, when he was eleven years old. There is a lectern constructed from the wood of the old Victory, which was presented by the Lords of the Admiralty in 1881. The old Purbeck marble font in which Horatio was baptized is still to be seen in the church. How much Nelson loved his native village can be understood from his remark as the Victory was going into action, "This is the happiest day of my life; what a happy day, too, for Burnham Thorpe, for it is the day of their fair."
Nelson's father was not by any means well off, and the question of providing for his sons was a very serious one. Horatio, however, solved the question as to his own career. At the Grammar School at Norwich, Nelson said to his brother, "Do, William, write to my father and tell him that I should like to go to sea with Uncle Maurice." Captain Maurice Suckling is said to have heard of Horatio's decision with some surprise, for he said, "What has poor Horatio done, who is so weak, that he, above all the rest, should be sent to rough it out at sea? But let him come, and the first time we go into action a cannon-ball may knock off his head and provide for him at once."
In January 1771, when at school at North Walsham, Nelson heard that he was to join the Raisonnable, of 64 guns, at Chatham. He was then only twelve years old.
[Illustration: G.W. Wilson & Co.
BURNHAM THORPE CHURCH.
It still contains the old marble font in which Nelson was baptized.]
LULWORTH COVE, DORSETSHIRE
=How to get there.=—By rail from Waterloo Station. South-Western
Railway.
=Nearest Station.=—Wool, 5 miles. (Corfe Castle, Wareham, and
Swanage are very convenient, though the drive is a little longer.)
=Distance from London.=—126 miles.
=Average Time.=—Varies between 3-1/2 to 5-1/4 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=—Single 21s. 0d. 13s. 2d. 10s. 6d.
Return 36s. 9d. 23s. 0d. 21s. 0d.
=Accommodation Obtainable.=—"Cove Hotel," West Lulworth.
"Banke's Arms Hotel" at Corfe Castle.
=Alternative Route.=—Via Bournemouth. Train direct from Waterloo.
Steamers run once a week or oftener during the summer months
(weather permitting) to Swanage and Lulworth Cove.
The remarkable cove at West Lulworth consists of a completely circular basin, hollowed out of the bold cliffs of the southern coast-line of Purbeck Island. It is of sufficient depth to allow small ships of from sixty to eighty tons to enter. The narrow opening to the cove is between two bluffs of Portland stone, forming a portion of what was the barrier to the sea in former times. Once, however, did the waves eat through the Portland stone in this place, it was easy work to gradually batter down and wash out, through the narrow opening, a circular bay from the soft strata of Hastings sands lying in the protection of the Portland stone. On the west side of the cove one may notice rocks with such peculiarly contorted strata as those shown in the foreground of the illustration opposite.
A most interesting and rugged portion of the coast lies to the west of Lulworth Cove. After leaving the coastguard signal station one reaches Stair Hole, a cavity walled off from the sea by Portland limestone. At high tide, however, the sea enters the chasm through a number of small apertures, and is probably carving out at this spot a circular basin after the manner of Lulworth Cove. Passing Dungy Head and Oswald or Horsewall Bay, with its towering chalk cliffs, one reaches a low promontory known as Tongue Beach. It is formed of layers of limestone tilted into curved or perpendicular positions. Crossing this promontory one enters Durdle Bay, with the Barndoor, an archway 30 feet high, in a massive cliff.
At East Lulworth, a little way inland from the cove, stands Lulworth Castle, an imposing-looking building with circular towers at each corner. It was built about three hundred years ago on the site of an earlier castle.
[Illustration: LULWORTH COVE FROM THE WEST.
The circular basin has been eaten out of the sandy soil after the sea had cut an opening in the Portland stone which forms the actual coast-line at this point.]
CORFE CASTLE
IN THE ISLE OF PURBECK, DORSETSHIRE
=How to get there=.—By rail from Waterloo Station. South-Western
Railway.
=Nearest Station.=—Corfe Castle—quite close to the ruins.
=Distance from London.=—130 miles.
=Average Time.=—Varies between 3 to 5 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=—Single 21s. 2d. 13s. 3d. 10s. 7d.
Return 37s. 0d. 23s. 3d. 21s. 2d.
=Accommodation Obtainable.= "The Banke's Arms Hotel."
=Alternative Route.=—Via Bournemouth and steamer to Swanage.
Corfe Castle on its great hill, with the little hamlet which goes by the same name which clusters at its foot, is one of the most spectacular of the ruined fortresses to be found in Southern England. At the periods of the year when there are no strangers in the village, the ruins and the village leave an impression on the mind which is not so palpable when there are the distractions caused by other visitors. But even then, the grand view across the wild downs forming the backbone of the island of Purbeck, over which one gazes from the shattered towers and curtain walls, is sufficiently memorable. Its position, commanding the whole Purbeck range of hills, made the spot famous in Saxon days, when it was known as Corfe Gate. Shortly after the days of Alfred the Great the hill was strongly fortified by King Edgar, who made it his residence and probably built the central keep, whose ruins still crown the summit of the hill. Edgar left the castle to his widow Elfrida, whose name has been handed down as the murderer of her stepson Edward—afterwards named Edward the Martyr. He visited Corfe Castle in order to see his brother, but while drinking a goblet of wine in the gateway between the two circular towers shown in the illustration, he was stabbed by command of Elfrida. During the civil war between Stephen and Maud, the fortress defied all attempts to take it by Stephen's adherents; and up to the struggle between Charles I. and his Parliament, when for a space of six weeks Lady Bankes held the castle with a handful of retainers, Corfe Castle has figured prominently in English history.
The village is almost entirely composed of cottages whose stone walls and thick slate roofs are beautifully mellowed by the hand of time. Nowhere does there appear anything new to jar with the silver greys and the grey greens of the old cottages, the church, and the castle ruins.
A charge of sixpence each person is made for admission to the castle.
[Illustration: CORFE CASTLE.
Showing on the left the massive round towers flanking the gateway, where, in Saxon times, Edward is said to have been stabbed by command of his stepmother, Elfrida.]
LINCOLN AND ITS CATHEDRAL
=How to get there.=—Train from King's Cross. Great Northern Rly.
=Nearest Station.=—Lincoln.
=Distance from London.=—130 miles.
=Average Time.=—Varies between 2-3/4 to 3-1/2 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=—Single 18s. 10d. … 10s. 9d.
Return 37s. 8d. … 21s. 6d.
=Accommodation Obtainable.=—"Great Northern Hotel," and others.
=Alternative Routes.=—Train from Marylebone, Great Central Railway.
Train from Liverpool Street, Great Eastern Railway. Train
from St. Pancras, via Nottingham, Midland Railway.
Lincoln stands on a hill surrounded by level country. First a British settlement, it became a Roman colony. In 1074 the decree that all bishoprics should be in fortified places caused the removal of the See of Dorchester to Lincoln. Even at this time Lincoln was an important commercial town. Many parliaments have been held in its chapter-house, and Henry VII. offered his thanksgivings after Bosworth in the cathedral.
The mighty fane, with its three massive towers, rises majestically over the red roofs of the town. Its most striking feature is the great Norman screen, running up without buttresses or projections to the parapet and hiding the bases of the square, richly decorated towers of the west front. The plain centre of the screen is the work of Remigius, the first bishop. The rest of it is relieved with rich arcading of Late Norman and Early English periods. The wooden spires which crowned the towers were removed in 1807.
In 1192 Hugh of Avalon determined to rebuild the Norman building of Remigius, which an earthquake had shaken. To him we owe the choir and eastern transept. His successors completed the western transept and began the west end of the nave. So much money had to be spent in rebuilding the central tower, which fell in 1239, that the canons could not rebuild the nave entirely, but had to incorporate the Norman end by Remigius. Unfortunately the axis of the west front does not correspond to that of the nave, which is too wide for its height. The low vaulting is a serious defect in the choir built by St. Hugh, but of the superb beauty of the Angel Choir, which encloses his shrine, there can be no doubt. In its richness of sculpture it is one of the masterpieces of Gothic architecture in England. The interior of the cathedral is remarkable for the harmony of its style, which is Lancet-Gothic, and the dim lighting of the nave only adds to its impressiveness.
[Illustration: Photochrom Co., Ltd.
LINCOLN CATHEDRAL.
The original Norman building was built by Remigius, but the structure having been weakened by an earthquake shock, Hugh of Avalon in 1192 built the Choir and Eastern Transept, and his successors finished the work.]
SOMERSET, THE BIRTHPLACE OF TENNYSON
=How to get there.=—Train from King's Cross. Great Northern Rly.
=Nearest Station.=—Horncastle (6 miles from Somersby).
=Average Time.=—from 3 to 4-1/2 hours.
=Distance from London.=—130 miles.
1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=—Single 18s. 4d. … 10s. 10d.
Return 36s. 8d. … 21s. 8d.
=Accommodation Obtainable.=—No inn at Somersby. Paying guests
accommodated at Baumber's Manor House at Somersby. Hotels
at Spilsby.
On August 6, 1809, Alfred Tennyson was born at the rectory at Somersby. His grandfather, Mr. George Tennyson, M.P., resided at Bayon's Manor, where the family had for a long period been known in Lincolnshire. Alfred was the fourth of the twelve children of the Rev. George Clayton Tennyson. Although there seems little reason for not believing that the scenery which surrounded him in his youth impressed itself on his mind, yet it is now stated with authority that the localities associated with his subject poems, "which had been ingeniously identified with real brooks and granges, were wholly imaginary." Those who visit Somersby, therefore, would be wise in avoiding what is pointed out as "Tennyson's Brook," merely gaining instead a general idea of the appearance of the country which impressed itself on the poet's mind.
When he was six years old Tennyson was sent to the grammar school at Louth, a town his mother was connected with, her father having been vicar there. After five years at school at Louth, Tennyson returned to Somersby Rectory to be trained by his father. The rectory possessed a good library, and here the poet obtained his extensive knowledge of the English classics. When only twelve years old he wrote an epic of 6000 lines, and two years later a drama in blank verse. Tennyson's early knowledge of the sea was obtained at Mablethorpe on the Lincolnshire coast, where the family spent their summer holidays. His father would not allow him to leave Somersby until he could recite from memory the whole of the odes of Horace.
In the early part of 1831 he returned to Somersby from Cambridge, and within a few days his father died. The new incumbent, however, allowed the family to continue at the rectory for some years. In 1837 they were finally obliged to leave, and for the next three years they lived at High Beach, Epping Forest.
[Illustration: SOMERSBY RECTORY.
Where Alfred Tennyson was born in 1809.]
GLASTONBURY ABBEY
=How to get there.=—Train from Waterloo. South-Western Railway.
=Nearest Station.=—Glastonbury and Street.
=Distance from London.=—132-1/4 miles.
=Average Time.=—Varies from 3-1/2 to 5 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=—Single 21s. 0d. … 10s. 6d.
Return 36s. 9d. … 21s. 0d.
=Accommodation Obtainable.=—"George Hotel," "Red Lion Hotel,"
"Crown Hotel," etc.
=Alternative Route.=—Train from Paddington. Great Western Rly.
In the early days of Christianity in Britain this celebrated abbey, according to tradition, was established in A.D. 63. Joseph of Arimathea was supposed to be the founder, and the "miraculous thorn," which flowered on Christmas Day, was believed to be holy by the common people even up to the time of the Puritans. During the wars between Charles I. and his Parliament the thorn was destroyed, but sturdy trees grown from cuttings of the original still flourish in some of the neighbouring gardens. This thorn was believed by the people to be the staff used by Joseph in his journey to Britain from the Holy Land. At one time Glastonbury Abbey covered 60 acres, and was the lengthiest ecclesiastical building in England, but as many of the houses in Glastonbury, and also a causeway across Sedgemoor (where the unhappy Duke of Monmouth was defeated) were constructed of the materials, the ruins are of necessity much diminished. The most interesting remains are the Abbey Church, with St. Joseph's Chapel, St. Mary's Chapel, and the Abbot's Kitchen. St. Joseph's Chapel is supposed to have been erected in the time of Henry II. and Richard I. It is one of the finest specimens in existence of transitional Norman work. It is now roofless, and even the vaulting of the crypt is nearly destroyed. The windows and archways of St. Mary's Chapel are beautiful, although roofless. The Abbot's Kitchen, a square massive structure with strong buttresses, was built about 1450. The roof is of stone and is surmounted by a louvre, through which the smoke escaped during the great culinary preparations in the days of the abbey's prosperity. The gargoyles around the building, representing the heads of sheep and oxen, are suggestive of the purpose of the building. Henry VIII., who coveted the treasures of the abbey, in 1539 summoned Abbot Whiting to surrender, and on his refusal ordered him to be drawn and quartered. This was carried out on Glastonbury Tor.
[Illustration: Photochrom Co., Ltd.
GLASTONBURY ABBEY.
The doorway of St. Joseph's Chapel.]
WALSINGHAM, NORFOLK
THE PRIORY OF OUR LADY OF WALSINGHAM
=How to get there.=—Train from Liverpool Street or St. Pancras.
Great Eastern Railway.
=Nearest Station.=—Walsingham.
=Distance from London.=—133 miles.
=Average Time.=—Varies between 4 and 5-1/2 hours. Quickest train 3
hours 50 minutes.
1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=—Single 19s. 7d. … 10s. 3d.
Return 33s. 3d. … 20s. 6d.
=Accommodation Obtainable.=—"Black Lion Hotel," "Abbeygate
Temperance Hotel," etc.
The ruins of the famous priory are now included in the extensive grounds of Walsingham Abbey, the property of Mr. Henry Lee Warner. Visitors have permission to see these ruins on Wednesdays and Fridays, by application at the lodge of the abbey.
Walsingham is a pretty village 5 miles from Wells-on-Sea. It possesses a noble church in the Perpendicular style, an ancient town pump, and two wishing wells, which were formerly believed to possess miraculous powers, for the legend is that they sprang from the ground at command of the Virgin. Walsingham was an important place for many centuries, for it contained the famous shrine of the Virgin, or, as it was called, "Our Lady of Walsingham." This far-famed chapel of the Virgin was founded by Ricoldie, the mother of Geoffrey de Faverches. When Geoffrey set out on a pilgrimage to Jerusalem, he granted to God and St. Mary, and to Edwy, his clerk, the chapel which his mother Ricoldie had built at Walsingham, with other possessions, requesting him to found a priory there. It became one of the richest in the world. From the very commencement there was an unceasing flow of pilgrims from all nations to it. Several kings and queens of England, and among them Henry VIII., paid their devotions there. Erasmus, who visited the priory in 1511, derided its enormous wealth. Parts of the road leading to this priory are known to this day as the "Walsingham Way" and the "Palmer's Way." It is said more pilgrims came to Walsingham than to the shrine of St. Thomas à Becket at Canterbury. The monks taught the people that the "Milky Way" pointed to the shrine. Hence the Norfolk people called it the "Walsingham Way." This shrine was destroyed at the dissolution of monasteries in 1539.
[Illustration: Rev. W. Martin, Walsingham.
EAST WINDOW OF THE PRIORY AT WALSINGHAM.]
CHEDDAR CAVES, CHEDDAR, SOMERSET
=How to get there.=—Train from Paddington. Great Western Railway.
=Nearest Station.=—Cheddar.
=Distance from London.=—134 miles.
=Average Time.=—Varies between 4-1/4 to 5-1/4 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=—Single 21s. 4d. 13s. 4d. 10s. 8d.
Return 37s. 4d. 23s. 4d. …
=Accommodation Obtainable.=—"Cliff Hotel," etc.
The village of Cheddar, a name which reminds one of the cheese for which the district is famous, is situated under the Mendip Hills, on the Cheddar river, a tributary of the Axe. The place was once a market town of considerable note, as the fine market-cross still testifies, but is now chiefly celebrated as a starting-point for visiting the wonderful natural beauties of the neighbourhood, the tremendous gorge through the Cheddar cliffs and the stalactite caves being the most remarkable. The road from the village rises gradually, passing the masses of rock known as the "Lion," the "Castle Rock," the "Pulpit," and others, named from their wonderful resemblance to the work of human hands. The way winds between steep limestone walls and towering pinnacles, rising here and there to a height of between four and five hundred feet, and absolutely shutting one in from even the merest glimpse of the magnificent scenery in the valley below. There are paths here and there leading up to points of vantage, but the way is difficult and dangerous owing to the manner in which the passes are honeycombed with caverns and fissures.
In the midst of the gorge on the right hand of the way lie the entrances to the marvellous stalactite caves, the first of which was discovered in 1837, and the second in comparatively recent times. It is needless to say that the proprietor of each cave affirms his to be the better—as a matter of fact, both are well worth seeing. One looks with something like awe on the fantastic shapes of the stalagmites and stalactites in these huge caverns, where the moisture, percolating through the earth, has been dripping in the darkness for countless centuries, each lime-laden drop lengthening imperceptibly the stalactite overhead and the stalagmite beneath, while the consequent splashings, and, in some parts, more sluggish dripping, make hundreds of quaint and suggestive forms above and below. The caverns are well lit up to display their beauties, and the admission is 2s. for a single visitor, or 1s. each for members of a party.
[Illustration: Photochrom Co., Ltd.
CHEDDAR CLIFFS.
The road leading to the limestone caves.]
NEWSTEAD ABBEY
THE BIRTHPLACE OF BYRON
=How to get there.=—Train from St. Pancras. Change trains at
Nottingham. Midland Railway.
=Nearest Station.=—Newstead.
=Distance from London.=—134-1/4 miles.
=Average Time.=—Varies between 3-1/4 to 4-1/4 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=—Single 17s. 6d. … 10s. 9-1/2d.
Return 35s. 0d. … 21s. 7d.
=Accommodation Obtainable.=—"Station Hotel,"* Newstead. "Swan
Hotel,"* Mansfield. "Midland," "White Hart," and "Green
Dragon," and others.
Near Sherwood Forest, and not far from the town of Mansfield, is Newstead Abbey, the ancestral seat of the Byrons. Founded in 1170 by Henry II. as an expiation for the murder of Thomas à Becket, the abbey, at the dissolution of the monasteries, was given by Henry VIII. to Sir John Byron. The latter made it his home, altering it very little, but allowing the church to fall into ruins. The monks, before leaving their old home, hid the charters in the lectern, which they threw into the lake. About 100 years ago the lectern, still containing the charters, was discovered, and is now being used at Southwell. The "Wicked Lord Byron," the grand-uncle of the poet, allowed the abbey to fall into decay, and to spite his sons cut down a large number of splendid oaks. Byron succeeded to the estate when a mere boy, and loved it so much that, even when in great need of money, he refused to part with it. At last he was obliged to sell the home, which he has so vividly portrayed in verse, to his old school friend Colonel Wildman. After the loss of the abbey, Byron left England, and died six years afterwards, in 1824, at Missolonghi, fighting for the independence of the Greeks.
The Abbey Church, though in ruins, is a very good example of Early English work. The abbey itself is full of interesting and historic rooms, one being the bedroom where Charles II. slept, retaining still the state bed, whose coverlet was embroidered by Mary Queen of Scots. Edward I. is known to have stayed in the abbey, and the room which he occupied contains some splendid oak carving. Lord Byron's bedroom is just as he left it, with his college pictures on the walls and the writing-table that he used. Newstead is open to the public on Tuesday and Friday when the family are not in residence. Tickets may be obtained at the two hotels mentioned above which are marked with an asterisk.
[Illustration: Photochrom Co., Ltd.
NEWSTEAD ABBEY.
It contains Lord Byron's bedroom in exactly the condition he left it in 1818.]
THE WESSEX OF THOMAS HARDY'S ROMANCES
=How to get there.=—Train from Waterloo. L. and S.W. Railway.
=Nearest Station.=—Dorchester.
=Distance from London.=—135-1/4 miles.
=Average Time.=—Varies between 3 to 5-1/2 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=—Single 22s. 8d. 14s. 2d. 11s. 4d.
Return 39s. 8d. 24s. 10d. 22s. 8d.
=Accommodation Obtainable.=—"Antelope," "King's Arms," and
other hotels.
=Alternative Route.=—Train from Paddington. Great Western Rly.
The centre of the district in the south-west of England which has been labelled with its ancient Saxon name of Wessex, may be found at the old-fashioned town of Dorchester. This is the Mecca of the whole countryside so vividly portrayed in Mr. Hardy's numerous romances dealing with the rustic life of the west country. On market-days, Dorchester is crowded with carriers' vans and innumerable vehicles which have brought in the farmers and their families from remote corners of the surrounding country, and it is then that one is able to select examples of many of the characters created by the novelist. To get at these folk in their homes, one may journey in almost any direction from Dorchester. The streets of Dorchester are suggestive of Mr. Hardy's works at every turn, so much so that the wayfarer may almost feel that he is taking an expurgated part in The Mayor of Casterbridge. A large old-fashioned house near St. Peter's Church seems to correspond to Lucetta's residence—High Place Hall. Then, the comfortable bay-windows of the "King's Arms," an old hostelry belonging to coaching days, suggests recollections of Henchard, who dined there on the occasion of the memorable banquet, when he threw down the challenge so quickly taken up by Farfrae.
Going up South Street one passes on the right the Grammar School, founded in 1579 by a certain Thomas Hardy, an ancestor of all the Dorset Hardys—Nelson's friend and the Wessex novelist being the most distinguished among them. Mr. Thomas Hardy lives in a new red house known as "Max Gate," which is situated a short distance from Dorchester. Eight miles away from the town is the village of Puddletown, known as "Weatherbury" in Far from the Madding Crowd. The church Mr. Hardy describes in his novel can be seen, but Warren's malt-house was destroyed more than twenty years ago. St. Peter's Church, Dorchester, of the Perpendicular period, has a Norman porch and contains two cross-legged recumbent effigies.
[Illustration: Photochrom Co., Ltd.
DORCHESTER.
The centre of Mr. Thomas Hardy's "Wessex."]
TINTERN ABBEY
=How to get there.=—Train from Paddington. Great Western Rly.
=Nearest Station.=—Tintern.
=Distance from London.=—145-1/2 miles.
=Average Time.=—Varies between 4-3/4 to 6 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=—Single 24s. 6d. 15s. 4d. 12s. 2-1/2d.
Return 42s. 9d. 26s. 10d. 24s. 5d.
=Accommodation Obtainable.=—"Beaufort Arms Hotel," "Royal
George Hotel," "Rose and Crown Hotel," at Chepstow, 5-1/2 miles
distant by road.
Tintern Abbey is situated in a level valley, surrounded on all sides by high green pastures and wooded hills, at the bottom of which the glorious river Wye glides in its circuitous course to the sea. The abbey is said to share with Melrose the distinction of being the most picturesque and beautiful ecclesiastical ruin in Great Britain. When the sun is setting, or better still, under the mystic light of the harvest moon, the picture formed by the roofless abbey in its perfect setting, needs a Wordsworth to do it justice.
An abbey for Cistercian monks was established on this spot in 1131 by Walter Fitz-Richard de Clare and dedicated to St. Mary. None of this building remains, as the whole edifice was rebuilt about 1260. The chief part of the ruins, now standing, is the church, though in 1847, when excavations were being carried on in an adjoining orchard, the remains of the Hospitium were discovered. This was an oblong building, supported on pillars, in which it was the custom for the monks to entertain strangers or travellers of their order. In the middle of the nave are the four arches which supported the tower, now mere skeletons, yet sufficiently preserved to show their form. The walls are nearly complete, and many of the columns still stand, as well as the bases of those whioh have fallen. All the pavement has disappeared, and the whole of the former floor is reduced to one level, now carpeted with turf.
The church is cruciform in plan and measures 228 feet from east to west. The remains of the dormitory, chapter-house, cloisters, and the refectory, which still has its lectern for the use of the reader during meals, are to be found on the north side of the church. Walking on the walls is forbidden. The vast extent of the ruins of the Hospitium recalls the fact that Tintern Abbey was for a long period distinguished for its luxurious style of living and its great hospitality.
When in the neighbourhood of Tintern one should visit Monmouth for its remarkable old bridge with its interesting gatehouse.
[Illustration: Photochrom Co., Ltd.
TINTERN ABBEY.
The beautiful river Wye is seen flowing just beyond the ruins.]
CHESTERFIELD, DERBYSHIRE
=How to get there.=—Train from St. Pancras. Midland Railway.
=Nearest Station.=—Chesterfield.
=Distance from London.=—146 miles.
=Average Time.=—Varies between 3 to 3-3/4 hrs.
1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=—Single 19s. 2d. … 12s. 1d.
Return 38s. 4d. … 24s. 2d.
=Accommodation Obtainable.=—"The Angel Hotel," "Station Hotel,"
"Midland Hotel," "Hotel Portland," etc.
=Alternative Route.=—Train from Marylebone. Great Central Rly.
Chesterfield, now the second largest town in its own county, was at the time of the Doomsday survey merely a bailiwick to Newbold, which at the present time has dwindled down to a small hamlet to the west of the parish. In the middle of the thirteenth century a battle was fought here between the Earl of Derby and Prince Henry, nephew of Henry III., in which the Earl was defeated and taken prisoner. It was also the scene of a fierce engagement during the civil wars of Charles I., in which the Earl of Newcastle routed the Parliamentary forces in 1643.
The great feature of interest in Chesterfield is the parish church of All Saints, with its extraordinary twisted spire 230 feet in height. This "crooked" spire, which leans over to the south-west, has been the object of much discussion amongst antiquaries, as to whether it was designed in such a fashion, or whether the present state of affairs has been brought about by a warping of the timber frame under the outside covering of lead. The latter seems the more feasible theory.
There was a church at Chesterfield in the eleventh century, but the present structure is mainly of the fourteenth century, with later additions. In the interior there are several features of interest, among them being the screen separating the transept from the chancel. This is carved with a set of mysterious figures, supposed to be emblematical of the crucifixion.
There are many extremely fine and interesting monuments in the church, especially two belonging to the Foljambe family. At the east end is a very good modern stained-glass window, erected as a memorial to a former vicar, the late Archdeacon Hill.
In the neighbourhood of Chesterfield there are a number of interesting places, notably the fine old churches at Old Brampton and Wingerworth, and a small disused chapel with a Norman doorway at Newbold.
[Illustration: G.W. Wilson & Co.
CHESTERFIELD CHURCH.
With its strangely-distorted spire, probably due to the unequal shrinking of its timbers.]