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With Axe and Rope in the New Zealand Alps

Chapter 17: A SHORT GLOSSARY OF TECHNICAL ALPINE TERMS.
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About This Book

A mountaineer recounts five seasons of climbing and exploration in New Zealand's Southern Alps, describing routes, attempts on Aorangi (Mount Cook) and neighboring summits, glacier travel on the Hooker, Tasman, Murchison and Onslow glaciers, and the region's geography, climate, vegetation, and glacial formations. The narrative mixes practical guidance on equipment, camps, and river and ice crossings with observational natural history, photographic illustrations, and a survey-derived map, while examining moraine deposition, snow-line variation, and the impressive scale and character of the alpine landscape.

A SHORT GLOSSARY OF TECHNICAL ALPINE TERMS.

Arête.—A ridge either of rock, ice, or snow, or combinations of all three.

Bergschrund.—The crevasse or deep moat almost invariably found between the sides and upper portions of a glacier or ice slope and the rocks above, or the permanent clinging ice above, as the case may be. Of late the meaning of the term has become extended, and almost any crevasse in the upper parts of a glacier with one lip higher than the other comes under the designation.

Col.—Saddle, or dip in a ridge.

Cornice.—The overhanging edge of an arête caused by drifting snow.

Couloir.—A ditch or deep gully in the mountain side; in the upper regions being usually floored with ice and swept by avalanches.

Crevasse.—The rent caused by fracture of the ice under tension.

Gendarme, or rock tower.—A mass of rock on the crest of an arête.

Moraine.—The accumulation of detritus which has fallen from the mountains on to the ice and is carried down upon it.

Névé, or firn.—Snow in a transition stage between snow and ice. The large fields of this feeding a glacier are spoken of as the névés of the glacier.

Séracs.—Blocks of ice broken into polyhedral masses (mostly cubic) by the body of the ice being crevassed in various lines of fracture. So called from the resemblance the blocks bear to a certain kind of cheese.

Shale slips and shingle and boulder fans are of very common occurrence in the New Zealand mountains and are caused by the discharge of detritus down couloirs, from which when emerging it spreads out into fan-shaped slopes.


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SPOTTISWOODE AND CO., NEW-STREET SQUARE
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Transcriber’s Note

Footnote numbers have been changed to 1, 2 and 3, to avoid confusion.

The spelling of Ranunculus lyalii in the Table of Illustrations and on Page 86 have been corrected to lyallii. (The species was discovered by David Lyall, a noted Scottish botanist and doctor.) Ranunculus lyallii is spelt correctly on Page 9.

Obvious punctuation errors were corrected.

The changes are as follows:

In the CONTENTS, Chapter III—river-crossing changed to river crossing.

Page 10—northeastern changed to north-eastern.

Page 12—ice-streams changed to ice streams.

Page 30—river bed changed to river-bed.

Page 30—downstream changed to down-stream.

Page 35—breakwind changed to break-wind.

Page 54—look-out changed to look out.

Page 55—life-time changed to lifetime.

Page 66—shangai changed to shanghai.

Page 84—ice-blocks changed to ice blocks.

Page 89—one day changed to one-day.

Page 93 and Page 139—mountain-side changed to mountain side.

Page 97—red-sandstone changed to red sandstone.

Page 101—step cutting changed to step-cutting.

Page 103—foot-hold changed to foothold.

Page 114—water-courses changed to watercourses.

Page 119—cockleshells changed to cockle-shells.

Page 120—starting-point changed to starting point.

Page 126—rabbit-fence changed to rabbit fence.