-
Lords Justices of Appeal.—The Lords Justices of Appeal are
Knights, and should be addressed thus:
Sup.—To the Right Honourable Sir W. Milbourne James, Knt.
-
Judge of County Courts.—Sup.—To His Honour John
James Jeffreys, Judge of County Courts.
A Dirty Grate Makes Dinner Late.
243. Officers of the Navy and Army.
-
Naval Officers.—Admirals have the rank of their flag added
to their own name and title thus:
Sup.—To the Honourable Sir Richard Saunders Dundas, Admiral of
the White.
If untitled, they are simply styled Sir.
Commodores are addressed in the same way as admirals.
Captains are addressed either to "Captain William Smith, R.N.;"
or if on service, "To William Smith, Esquire, Commander of H.M.S.—"
Lieutenants are addressed in the same way.
-
Military Officers.—All officers in the army above
Lieutenants, Cornets, and Ensigns, have their military rank prefixed
to their name and title.
Sup.—To General Sir Frederick Roberts.
Subalterns are addressed as Esquire, with the regiment
to which they belong, if on service.
244. Municipal Officers.
-
Lord Mayor.—Sup.—To the Right Honourable the Lord Mayor
(The Lady Mayoress) of London, York, Dublin; The Lord Provost
(The Lady Provost) of Edinburgh.
Comm.—My Lord (Madam).
Con.—I have the honour to be, my Lord, Your Lordship's
(Madam, Your Ladyship's) most obedient humble servant.
-
The Mayors of all Corporations, with the Sheriffs, Aldermen, and
Recorder of London, are styled Right Worshipful; and the
Aldermen and Recorder of other Corporations, as well as Justices of
the Peace, Worshipful.
245. Ambassadors
Ambassadors have
Excellency
prefixed to the other titles, and
their accredited rank added.
Sup
.—To His Excellency Count Karolyi, Ambassador Extraordinary
and Plenipotentiary from H.I.M. (His Imperial Majesty) The Emperor of
Austria.
Sup
.—To His Excellency The Right Honourable Earl of Dufferin,
K.P., G.C.M.G., K.C.B., Her Britannic Majesty's Ambassador
Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary to the Sublime Ottoman Porte.
Comm
.—My Lord.
Con
.—I have the honour to be, My Lord, Your Excellency's Most
humble obedient servant.
The wives of Ambassadors have also Excellency added to their other
titles.
Envoys and Chargés d'Affaires are generally styled Excellency, but by
courtesy only.
Consuls have only their accredited rank added to their names or
titles, if they have any.
246. Addresses of Petitions
-
Queen in Council.—All applications to the Queen in Council,
the Houses of Lords and Commons, &c., are by Petition, as
follows, varying only the title:
To the Queen's most Excellent Majesty in Council, The humble
Petition of M.N., &c., showeth That your Petitioner.... Wherefore
Your Petitioner humbly prays that Your Majesty will be graciously
pleased to.... And Your Petitioner, as in duty bound, will ever
pray.
-
Lords and Commons.—To the Right Honourable the Lords
Spiritual and Temporal (To the Honourable the Commons) of the United
Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, in Parliament assembled.
The humble Petitioner &c. And your Petitioner [or Petitioners] will
ever pray, &c.
247. To those who Write for the Press
It would be a great service to editors and printers if all who write
for the press would observe the following rules. They are reasonable,
and correspondents will regard them as such:
-
write with black ink, on white paper, wide ruled.
-
Make the pages or folios small, one-fourth of a foolscap sheet
is large enough.
-
Leave the second page of each leaf blank; or, in other words,
write on one side of the paper only.
-
Give to the written page an ample margin all round; or
fold down the left hand side to the extent of one-fourth the width
of the entire paper so as to leave a broad margin on the left side
of the paper.
-
Number the pages; in the order of their succession.
-
Write in a plain, bold, legible hand, without regard to beauty
of appearance.
-
Use no abbreviations which are not to appear in print.
Punctuate the manuscript as it should be printed.
For italics underscore one line; for small capitals, two;
capitals, three.
Never interline without the caret (^) to show its place.
Take special pains with every letter in proper names.
Review every word, to be sure that none is illegible.
Put directions to the printer at the head of the first page.
-
Never write a private letter to the editor on the printer's
copy, but always on a separate sheet.
248. Hints to those who have Pianofortes
-
Damp is very injurious to a pianoforte; it ought therefore to be
placed in a dry place, and not exposed to draughts.
-
Keep your piano free from dust, and do not allow needles, pins, or
bread to be placed upon it, especially if the key-board is exposed, as
such articles are apt to get inside and produce a jarring or whizzing
sound.
-
Do not load the top of a piano with books, music, &c., as the
tone is thereby deadened, and the disagreeable noise alluded to in the
last paragraph is often produced likewise.
-
Have your piano tuned about every two months; whether it is used
or not, the strain is always upon it, and if it is not kept up to
concert pitch it will not stand in tune when required, which it will
do if it be attended to regularly.
-
An upright instrument sounds better if placed about two inches from
the wall.
-
When not in use keep the piano locked.
-
To make the polish look nice, rub it with an old silk
handkerchief, being careful first of all to dust off any small
particles, which otherwise are apt to scratch the surface.
-
Should any of the notes keep down when struck, it is a sure sign
that there is damp somewhere, which has caused the small note upon
which the key works to swell.
249. Gardening Operations for the Year
250. January.—Flowers of the Month.
Christmas Rose, Crocus, Winter Aconite, Alyssum, Primrose, Snowdrop.
251. Gardening Operations
In-door preparations for future operations must be made, as in this
month there are only five hours a day available for out-door work,
unless the season be unusually mild. Mat over tulip beds, begin to
force roses. Place pots over seakale and surround them with manure,
litter, dried leaves, &c. Plant dried roots of border flowers in mild
weather. Take strawberries in pots into the greenhouse. Take cuttings
of chrysanthemums and strike them under glass. Prune and plant
gooseberry, currant, fruit, and deciduous trees and shrubs. Cucumbers
and melons to be sown in the hot-bed. Apply manures to the soil.
252. February.—Flowers of the Month.
Snowdrop, Violet, Alyssum, Primrose.
253. Gardening Operations
Transplant pinks, carnations, sweet-williams, candy-tuft, campanulas,
&c. Sow sweet and garden peas and lettuces, for succession of crops,
covering the ground with straw, &c. Sow also Savoys, leeks, and
cabbages. Prune and nail fruit trees, and towards the end of the month
plant stocks for next year's grafting; also cuttings of poplar, elder,
willow trees, for ornamental shrubbery. Sow fruit and forest tree
seeds.
254. March.—Flowers of the Month
Primrose, Narcissus, Hyacinth, Wallflower, Hepatica, Daisy,
Polyanthus.
255. Gardening Operations
Seeds of "spring flowers" to be sown. Border flowers to be planted
out. Tender annuals to be potted out under glasses. Mushroom beds to
be made. Sow artichokes, Windsor beans, and cauliflowers for autumn;
lettuces and peas for succession of crops, onions, parsley, radishes,
Savoys, asparagus, red and white cabbages, and beet; turnips, early
brocoli, parsnips and carrots. Plant slips and parted roots of
perennial herbs. Graft trees and protect early blossoms. Force
rose-tree cuttings under glasses.
256. April.—Flowers of the Month.
Cowslip, Anemone, Ranunculus, Tulip, Polyanthus, Auricula, Narcissus,
Jonquil, Wallflower, Lilac, Laburnum.
257. Gardening Operations
Sow for succession peas, beans, and carrots; parsnips, celery, and
seakale. Sow more seeds of "spring flowers." Plant evergreens,
dahlias, chrysanthemums, and the like, also potatoes, slips of thyme,
parted roots, lettuces, cauliflowers, cabbages, onions. Lay down turf,
remove caterpillars. Sow and graft camelias, and propagate and graft
fruit and rose trees by all the various means in use. Sow cucumbers
and vegetable marrows for planting out.
This is the most important
month in the year for gardeners.
258. May.—Flowers of the Month
Hawthorn, Gentianella, Anemone, Ranunculus, Columbine, Honeysuckle,
Laburnum, Wistaria.
259. Gardening Operations
Plant out your seedling flowers as they are ready, and sow again for
succession larkspur, mignonette, and other spring flowers. Pot out
tender annuals. Remove auriculas to a north-east aspect. Take up
bulbous roots as the leaves decay. Sow kidney beans, broccoli for
spring use, cape for autumn, cauliflowers for December; Indian corn,
cress, onions to plant out as bulbs next year, radishes, aromatic
herbs, turnips, cabbages, savoys, lettuces, &c. Plant celery,
lettuces, and annuals; thin spring crops; stick peas, &c. Earth up
potatoes, &c. Moisten mushroom beds.
260. June.—Flowers of the Month
Water-lily, Honeysuckle, Sweet-william, Pinks, Syringa, Rhododendron,
Delphinium, Stock.
261. Gardening Operations
Sow giant stocks to flower next spring. Take slips of myrtles to
strike, pipings of pinks, and make layers of carnation. Put down layers
and take cuttings of roses and evergreens. Plant annuals in borders,
and place auriculas in pots in shady places. Sow kidney beans,
pumpkins, cucumbers for pickling, and (late in the month) endive and
lettuces. Plant out cucumbers, marrows, leeks, celery, broccoli,
cauliflowers, savoys, and seedlings, and plants propagated by slips.
Earth up potatoes, &c. Cut herbs for drying when in flower.
262. July.—Flowers of the Month
Rose, Carnation, Picotee, Asters, Balsams.
263. Gardening Operations
Part auricula and polyanthus roots. Take up summer bulbs as they go
out of flower, and plant saffron crocus and autumn bulbs. Gather
seeds. Clip evergreen borders and edges, strike myrtle slips under
glasses. Net fruit trees. Finish budding by the end of the month. Head
down espaliers. Sow early dwarf cabbages to plant out in October for
spring; also endive, onions, kidney beans for late crop, and turnips.
Plant celery, endive, lettuces, cabbages, leeks, strawberries, and
cauliflowers. Tie up lettuces. Earth celery. Take up onions, &c., for
drying.
264. August.—Flowers of the Month
Geranium, Verbena, Calceolaria, Hollyhock.
265. Gardening Operations
Sow annuals to bloom indoors in winter, and pot all young stocks
raised in the greenhouse. Sow early red cabbages, cauliflowers for
spring and summer use, cos and cabbage lettuce for winter crop. Plant
out winter crops. Dry herbs and mushroom spawn. Plant out strawberry
roots, and net currant trees, to preserve the fruit through the
winter.
266. September.—Flowers of the Month
Clematis, or Traveller's Joy, Jasmine, Passion Flower, Arbutus.
267. Gardening Operations
Plant crocuses, scaly bulbs, and evergreen shrubs. Propagate by
layers and cuttings of all herbaceous plants, currant, gooseberry, and
other fruit trees. Plant out seedling pinks. Sow onions for spring
plantation, carrots, spinach, and Spanish radishes in warm spots.
Earth up celery. House potatoes and edible bulbs. Gather pickling
cucumbers. Make tulip and mushroom beds.
268. October.—Flowers of the Month
Asters, Indian Pink, Chrysanthemum, Stock.
269. Gardening Operations
Sow fruit stones for stocks for future grafting, also larkspurs and
the hardier annuals to stand the winter, and hyacinths and smooth
bulbs in pots and glasses. Plant young trees, cuttings of jasmine,
honeysuckle, and evergreens. Sow mignonette for pots in winter. Plant
cabbages, &c., for spring. Cut down asparagus, separate roots of
daisies, irises, &c. Trench, drain, and manure.
270. November.—Flowers of the Month
Laurestinus, Michaelmas Daisy, Chrysanthemum.
271. Gardening Operations
Sow sweet peas and garden peas for early flowers and crops. Take up
dahlia roots. Complete beds for asparagus and artichokes. Plant dried
roots of border flowers, daisies, &c. Take potted mignonette indoors.
Make new plantations of strawberries, though it is better to do this
in October. Sow peas, leeks, beans, and radishes. Plant rhubarb in
rows. Prune hardy trees, and plant stocks of fruit trees. Store
carrots, &c. Shelter from frost where it may be required. Plant shrubs
for forcing. Continue to trench and manure vacant ground.
272. December.—Flowers of the Month
Cyclamen and Winter Aconite Holly berries are now available for floral
decoration.
273. Gardening Operations
Continue in open weather to prepare vacant ground for spring, and to
protect plants from frost. Cover bulbous roots with matting. Dress
flower borders. Prepare forcing ground for cucumbers, and force
asparagus and seakale. Plant gooseberry, currant, apple, and pear
trees. Roll grass-plats if the season be mild and not too wet. Prepare
poles, stakes, pea-sticks, &c., for spring.
274. Kitchen Garden
This is one of the most important parts of general domestic economy,
whenever the situation of a house and the size of the garden will
permit the members of a family to avail themselves of the advantages
it offers. It is, indeed, much to be regretted that small plots of
ground, in the immediate vicinity of the metropolis more especially,
are too often converted into flower gardens and shrubberies, or used
as mere play-grounds for children, when they might more usefully be
employed in raising vegetables for the family. With a little care and
attention, a kitchen garden, though small, might be rendered not only
useful, but, in fact, as ornamental as a modern grass lawn; and the
same expense incurred to make the ground a laboratory of sweets, might
suffice to render it agreeable to the palate as well as to the
olfactory nerves, and that even without offending the most delicate
optics. It is only in accordance with our plan to give the hint and to
put before the reader such novel points as may facilitate the proposed
arrangement.
It is one objection to the formation of a kitchen garden
in front of the dwelling, or in sight of the drawing-room and parlour,
that its very nature makes it rather an eyesore than otherwise at all
seasons. This, however, may be readily got over by a little attention
to neatness and good order, for the vegetables themselves, if properly
attended to, may be made really ornamental; but then, in cutting the
plants for use, the business must be done neatly—all useless leaves
cleared from the ground, the roots no longer wanted taken up, and the
ravages of insects guarded against by sedulous extirpation. It will
also be found a great improvement, where space will admit of it, to
surround the larger plots of ground, in which the vegetables are
grown, with flower borders stocked with herbaceous plants and others,
such as annuals and bulbs in due order of succession, or with neat
espaliers, with fruit trees, or even gooseberry and currant bushes,
trained along them, instead of being suffered to grow in a state of
ragged wildness, as is too often the case.
A Waiting Appetite Kindles Many a Spite.
275. Artificial Mushroom Beds
Mushrooms may be grown in pots, boxes, or hampers. Each box may be
about three feet long, one and a half broad, and seven inches in
depth. Let each box be half filled with manure in the form of fresh
horse-dung from the stables, the fresher the better, but if wet, it
should be allowed to dry for three or four days before it is put into
the boxes. When the manure has been placed in the box it should be
well beaten down. After the second or third day, if the manure has
begun to generate heat, break each brick of mushroom spawn (which may
be obtained from any seedsman) into pieces about three inches square,
then lay the pieces about four inches apart upon the surface of the
manure in the box; here they are to lie for six days, when it will
probably be found that the side of the spawn next to the manure has
begun to run in the manure below; then add one and a half inch more of
fresh manure on the top of the spawn in the box, and beat it down as
formerly. In the course of a fortnight, when you find that the spawn
has run through the manure, the box will be ready to receive the mould
on the top; this mould must be two and a half inches deep, well beaten
down, and the surface made quite even.
In the space of five or six
weeks the mushrooms will begin to come up; if the mould then seems
dry, give it a gentle watering with lukewarm water. The box will
continue to produce from six weeks to two months, if duly attended to
by giving a little water when dry, for the mushrooms need neither
light
nor
free air
. If cut as button mushrooms each box
will yield from twenty-four to forty-eight pints, according to the
season and other circumstances. They may be kept in dry dark cellars,
or any other places where the frost will not reach them. By preparing
in succession of boxes, mushrooms may be had all the year
through.—They may be grown without the manure, and be of a finer
flavour. Take a little straw, and lay it carefully in the bottom of
the mushroom box, about an inch thick, or rather more. Then take some
of the spawn bricks and break them down—each brick into about ten
pieces, and lay the fragments on the straw, as close to each other as
they will lie. Cover them up with mould three and a half inches deep,
and well pressed down. When the surface appears dry give a little
tepid water, as directed for the mode of raising them described above,
but this method needs about double the quantity of water that the
former does, owing to having no moisture in the bottom, while the
other has the manure. The mushrooms will begin to start in a month or
five weeks, sometimes sooner, sometimes later, according to the heat
of the place where the boxes are situated.
Some Hours We Should Find for the Pleasures of the Mind.
276. Dwarf Plants
The following method of producing miniature trees is taken from an
article on this subject in
Gardening Illustrated
.
"Take an
orange, and having cut a hole in the peel about the size of a
shilling, take out the juice and pulp. Fill the skin thus emptied with
some cocoa-nut fibre, fine moss, and charcoal, just stiffened with a
little loam, and then put an acorn or a date stone, or the seed or
kernel of any tree that it is proposed to obtain in a dwarfed form in
this mixture, just about the centre of the hollow orange peel. Place
the orange peel in a tumbler or vase in a window, and occasionally
moisten the contents with a little water through the hole in the peel,
and sprinkle the surface apparent through the hole with some fine
woodashes. In due time the tree will push up its stem through the
compost and the roots will push through the orange peel. The roots
must then be cut off flush with the peel, and this process must be
repeated at frequent intervals for about two years and a half. The
stem of the tree will attain the height of four or five inches and
then assume a stunted gnarled appearance, giving it the appearance of
an old tree. When the ends of the roots are cut for the last time, the
orange peel, which, curiously enough, does not rot, must be painted
black and varnished."
The writer of the article saw this process
carried out by a Chinaman that he had in his service, and the trees
thrived and presented a healthy appearance for eight years, when the
Chinaman left his employ and took the trees with him. He tried the
plan which has been described but failed, but he was successful with
an acorn and a datestone which were planted each in a thumb-pot in a
mixture of peat and loam. The dwarfing was effected by turning the
plants out of the pots at intervals of six weeks and pinching off the
ends of the roots that showed themselves behind the compost. This
shows that the production of dwarf plants is chiefly due to a constant
and systematic checking of the root growth.
277. To Clear Rose Trees from Blight
Mix equal quantities of Sulphur and tobacco dust, and strew the
mixture over the trees of a morning when the dew is on them. The
insects will disappear in a few days. The trees should then be
syringed with a decoction of elder leaves.
278. To prevent Mildew on all sorts of Trees
The best preventive against mildew is to keep the plant subject to it
occasionally syringed with a decoction of elder leaves, which will
prevent the fungus growing on them.
279. Your Friend the Toad
Toads are among the best friends the gardener has; for they live
almost exclusively on the most destructive kinds of vermin. Unsightly,
therefore, though they may be, they should on all accounts be
encouraged; they should never be touched nor molested in any way; on
the contrary, places of shelter should be made for them, to which they
may retire from the burning heat of the sun. If you have none in your
garden, it will be quite worth your while to search for them in your
walks, and bring them home, taking care to handle them tenderly, for
although they have neither the will nor the power to injure you, a
very little rough treatment will injure them; no cucumber or melon
frame should be without one or two.