Boil, say on Monday morning, two ounces of the best hops in four
quarts of water for half an hour; strain it, and let the liquor cool
to new-milk warmth; then put in a small handful of salt, and half a
pound of sugar; beat up one pound of the best flour with some of the
liquor, and then mix well all together. On Wednesday add three pounds
of potatoes, boiled, and then mashed, to stand till Thursday; then
strain it and put it into bottles, and it is ready for use.
It must
be stirred frequently while it is making, and kept near the fire
.
Before using, shake the bottle up well. It will keep in a cool place
for two months, and is best at the latter part of the time. This yeast
ferments spontaneously, not requiring the aid of other yeast; and if
care be taken to let it ferment well in the earthen bowl in which it
is made, you may cork it up tight when bottled. The quantity above
given will fill four seltzer-water bottles.
Never spend your money before you have it.
1004. Yeast (2)
The following is an excellent recipe for making yeast:—For 14 lbs. of
flour (but a greater quantity does not require so much in
proportion),—into two quarts of water put a quarter of an ounce of
hops, two potatoes sliced, and a tablespoonful of malt or sugar; boil
for twenty minutes, strain through a sieve, let the liquor stand till
new-milk warm, then add the quickening; let it stand in a large jar or
jug till sufficiently risen; first put into an earthen bottle from a
pint to two quarts of the yeast, according to the size of the baking,
for a future quickening. Let it stand uncorked an hour or two, and put
into a cool place till wanted for a fresh baking. Put the remainder of
it, and two quarts of warm water, to half or more of the flour; stir
well, let it stand to rise, knead up with the rest of the flour, put
it into or upon tins, and let it stand to rise. Then bake in a
moderately quick oven. For a first quickening a little German yeast
will do.
1005. Economical Yeast
Boil one pound of good flour, a quarter of a pound of brown sugar, and
a little salt, in two gallons of water, for one hour. When milk-warm,
bottle it, and cork it close. It will be fit for use in twenty-four
hours. One pint of this yeast will make eighteen pounds of bread.
1006. Pure and Cheap Bread
Whole meal bread may be made by any one who possesses a small hand
mill that will grind about twenty pounds of wheat at a time. This
bread is far more nutritious than ordinary bread made from flour from
which the bran has been entirely separated. The meal thus obtained may
be used for puddings, &c. There are mills which grind and dress the
wheat at one operation. Such mills may be obtained at any
ironmonger's. The saving in the cost of bread amounts to nearly
one-third, which would soon cover the cost of the mill, and effect a
most important saving, besides promoting health, by avoiding the evil
effects of adulterated flour.
1007. Home-made Bread
To one quartern of flour (three pounds and a half), add a
dessertspoonful of salt, and mix them well; mix about two
tablespoonfuls of good fresh yeast with half a pint of water a little
warm, but not hot; make a hole with your hand in the middle of the
flour, but not quite touching the bottom of the pan; pour the water
and yeast into this hole, and stir it with a spoon till you have made
a thin batter; sprinkle this over with flour, cover the pan over with
a dry cloth, and let it stand in a warm room for an hour; not near the
fire, except in cold weather, and then not too close; then add a pint
of water a little warm, and knead the whole well together, till the
dough comes clean through the hand (some flour will require a little
more water; but in this, experience must be your guide); let it stand
again for about a quarter of an hour, and then bake at pleasure.
1008. Indian Corn Flour and Wheaten Bread
The peculiarity of this bread consists in its being composed in part
of Indian corn flour, which will be seen by the following analysis by
the late Professor Johnston, to be much richer in gluten and fatty
matter than the flour of wheat, to which circumstance it owes its
highly nutritive character:
|
English Fine
Wheaten Flour |
Indian
Corn Flour |
| water |
16 |
12 |
| gluten |
10 |
12 |
| Fat |
2 |
8 |
| Starch, etc. |
72 |
66 |
| Total |
100 |
100 |
Take of Indian corn flour seven pounds, pour upon it four quarts of
boiling water, stirring it all the time; let it stand till about
new-milk warm, then mix it with fourteen pounds of fine wheaten flour,
to which a quarter of a pound of salt has been previously added. Make
a depression on the surface of this mixture, and pour into it two
quarts of yeast, which should be thickened to the consistence of cream
with some of the flour; let it stand all night; on the following
morning the whole should be well kneaded, and allowed to stand for
three hours; then divide it into loaves, which are better baked in
tins, in which they should stand for half an hour, then bake.
Thirty-two pounds of wholesome, nutritive, and very agreeable bread
will be the result. It is of importance that the flour of Indian corn
should be procured, as Indian corn meal is that which is commonly met
with at the shops, and the coarseness of the husk in the meal might to
some persons be prejudicial.
Never trouble another for what you can do yourself.
1009. To make Bread with German Yeast
To one quartern of flour add a dessertspoonful of salt as before;
dissolve one ounce of dried German yeast in about three tablespoonfuls
of cold water, add to this one pint and a half of water a little warm,
and pour the whole into the flour; knead it well immediately, and let
it stand as before directed for one hour: then bake at pleasure. It
will not hurt if you make up a peck of flour at once, and bake three
or four loaves in succession, provided you do not keep the dough too
warm. German yeast may be obtained at almost any corn-chandler's in
the metropolis and suburbs. In winter it will keep good for a week in a
dry place, and in summer it should be kept in cold water, and the
water changed every day. Wheat meal requires a little more yeast than
fine flour, or a longer time to stand in the dough for rising.
1010. Unfermented Bread
Three pounds wheat meal, or four pounds of white flour, two heaped
tablespoonfuls of baking powder, a tablespoonful of salt, and about
two and a half pints of lukewarm water, or just sufficient to bring
the flour to a proper consistence for bread-making; water about a
quart. The way of making is as follows:
First mix the baking powder, the salt, and about three fourths of the
flour well together by rubbing in a pan; then pour the water over the
flour, and mix well by stirring. Then add most of the remainder of the
flour, and work up the dough with the hand to the required
consistence, which is indicated by the smoothness of the dough, and
its not sticking to the hands or the sides of the pan when kneaded.
The rest of the flour must then be added to stiffen the dough, which
may then be placed in tins or formed by the hand into any shape that
may be preferred and placed on flat tins for baking.
The tins should be well floured. Put the loaves at once into a
well-heated oven. After they have been in the oven about a quarter of
an hour open the ventilator to slacken the heat and allow the steam to
escape. In an hour the process of baking will be completed. Bread made
in this way keeps moist longer than bread made with yeast, and is far
more sweet and digestible. This is especially recommended to persons
who suffer from indigestion, who will find the brown bread invaluable.
1011. Baking Powders and Egg Powders
These useful preparations are now much used in making bread and pastry
of all kinds, and have the merit of being both cheap and wholesome.
They may be procured of all grocers and oilmen. The basis of all
baking powders consists of carbonate of soda and tartaric acid or
cream of tartar, and egg powders are made of the same materials, with
a little harmless colouring matter such as turmeric. By the action of
these substances, carbonic acid is generated in the dough, which
causes it to rise in the same manner as the so-called "aërated bread "
made on Dr. Dauglish's system, by which carbonic acid is forced into
the dough before baking.
Never Put Off Till To-morrow What You Can Do To-day.
1012. How to Use Baking Powder, &c.
Baking powder may be used instead of yeast in making all kinds of
bread, cake, teacakes, &c., and for biscuits and pastry, either
without or in combination with butter, suet, &c. Bread, &c., made with
baking powder is never placed before the fire to rise as when made
with yeast, but the dough may be shaped and put into the oven as soon
as it is made. The chief points to bear in remembrance are that in
making bread two teaspoonfuls of baking powder should be used to every
pound of flour, but for pastry, cakes, buns, &c., three teaspoonfuls
should be used. The ingredients should always be thoroughly
incorporated by mixing; the tins on which or in which the dough is
placed to bake should be well floured, and not greased; and the oven
should always be very hot, so that the baking may be effected as
rapidly as possible.
1013. Bread (Cheap and Excellent)
Simmer slowly, over a gentle fire, a pound of rice in three quarts of
water, till the rice has become perfectly soft, and the water is
either evaporated or imbibed by the rice: let it become cool, but not
cold, and mix it completely with four pounds of flour; add to it some
salt, and about four tablespoonfuls of yeast. Knead it very
thoroughly, for on this depends whether or not your good materials
produce a superior article. Next let it rise well before the fire,
make it up into loaves with a little of the flour—which, for that
purpose, you must reserve from your four pounds—and bake it rather
long. This is an exceedingly good and cheap bread.
1014. Economical and Nourishing Bread
Suffer the miller to remove from the flour only the coarse flake bran.
Of this bran, boil five or six pounds in four and a half gallons of
water; when the goodness is extracted from the bran,—during which
time the liquor will waste half or three-quarters of a gallon,—strain
it and let it cool. When it has cooled down to the temperature of new
milk, mix it with fifty-six pounds of flour and as much salt and yeast
as would be used for other bread; knead it exceedingly well; let it
rise before the fire, and bake it in small loaves: small loaves are
preferable to large ones, because they take the heat more equally.
There are two advantages in making bread with bran water instead of
plain water; the one being that there is considerable nourishment in
bran, which is thus extracted and added to the bread; the other, that
flour imbibes much more of bran water than it does of plain water; so
much more, as to give in the bread produced almost a fifth in weight
more than the quantity of flour made up with plain water would have
done. These are important considerations to the poor. Fifty-six pounds
of flour, made with plain water, would produce sixty-nine and a half
pounds of bread; made with bran water, it will produce eighty-three
and a half pounds.
1015. Use Bran-Water
A great increase on Home-made Bread, even equal to one-fifth, may be
produced by using bran water for kneading the dough. The proportion is
three pounds of bran for every twenty-eight pounds of flour, to be
boiled for an hour, and then strained through a hair sieve.
1016. Rye and Wheat Flour
Rye and wheat flour, in equal quantities, make an excellent and
economical bread.
1017. Potatoes in Bread
Place in a large dish fifteen pounds of flour near the fire to warm;
take five pounds of good potatoes, those of a mealy kind being
preferable, peel and boil them as if for the table, mash them fine,
and then mix with them as much cold water as will allow all except
small lumps to pass through a coarse sieve into the flour, which will
now be ready to receive them; add yeast, &c., and mix for bread in the
usual way. This plan has been followed for some years: finding that
bread made according to it is much superior to that made of flour
only, and on this ground alone we recommend its adoption; but in
addition to this, taking the high price of flour, and moderately low
price of potatoes, here is a saving of over twenty per cent., which is
surely an object worth attending to by those of limited means.
All Things have a Beginning, God Excepted.
1018. Use of Lime Water in making Bread
It has lately been found that water saturated with lime produces in
bread the same whiteness, softness, and capacity of retaining
moisture, as results from the use of alum; while the former removes
all acidity from the dough, and supplies an ingredient needed in the
structure of the bones, but which is deficient in the
cerealia
. The
best proportion to use is, five pounds of water saturated with lime,
to every nineteen pounds of flour. No change is required in the
process of baking. The lime most effectually coagulates the gluten,
and the bread weighs well; bakers must therefore approve of its
introduction, which is not injurious to the system, like alum, &c.
1019. Rice Bread
Take one pound and a half of rice, and boil it gently over a slow fire
in three quarts of water about five hours, stirring it, and afterwards
beating it up into a smooth paste. Mix this, while warm, into two
gallons or four pounds of flour, adding at the same time the usual
quantity of yeast. Allow the dough to work a certain time near the
fire, after which divide it into loaves, and it will be found, when
baked, to produce twenty-eight or thirty pounds of excellent white
bread.
1020. Apple Bread
A very light, pleasant bread is made in France by a mixture of apples
and flour, in the proportion of one of the former to two of the
latter. The usual quantity of yeast is employed, as in making common
bread, and is beaten with flour and warm pulp of the apples after they
have boiled, and the dough is then considered as set; it is then put
in a proper vessel, and allowed to rise for eight or twelve hours, and
then baked in long loaves. Very little water is requisite: none,
generally, if the apples are very fresh.
1021. Pulled Bread
Take from the oven an ordinary loaf when it is about
half baked
, and
with the fingers, while the bread is yet hot, dexterously pull the
half-set dough into pieces of irregular shape, about the size of an
egg. Don't attempt to smooth or flatten them—the rougher their shapes
the better. Set upon tins, place in a very slow oven, and bake to a
rich brown. This forms a deliciously crisp crust for cheese. If you do
not bake at home, your baker will prepare it for you, if ordered.
Pulled bread may be made in the revolving ovens. It is very nice with
wine instead of biscuits.
1022. French Bread and Rolls
Take a pint and a half of milk; make it quite warm; half a pint of
small-beer yeast; add sufficient flour to make it as thick as batter;
put it into a pan; cover it over, and keep it warm: when it has risen
as high as it will, add a quarter of a pint of warm water, and half an
ounce of salt, —mix them well together,—rub into a little flour two
ounces of butter; then make your dough, not quite so stiff as for your
bread; let it stand for three-quarters of an hour, and it will be
ready to make into rolls, &c.:—let them stand till they have risen,
and bake them in a quick oven.
1023. Rolls
Mix the salt with the flour. Make a deep hole in the middle. Stir the
warm water into the yeast, and pour it into the hole in the flour.
Stir it with a spoon just enough to make a thin batter, and sprinkle
some flour over the top. Cover the pan, and set it in a warm place for
several hours. When it is light, add half a pint more of lukewarm
water, and make it, with a little more flour, into a dough. Knead it
very well for ten minutes. Then divide it into small pieces, and knead
each separately. Make them into round cakes or rolls. Cover them, and
set them to rise about an hour and a half. Bake them, and, when done,
let them remain in the oven, without the lid, for about ten minutes.
God is the First of All.
1024. Sally Lunn Tea Cakes
Take one pint of milk quite warm, a quarter of a pint of thick
small-beer yeast; put them into a pan with flour sufficient to make it
as thick as batter, —cover it over, and let it stand till it has
risen as high as it will, i. e., about two hours: add two ounces of
lump sugar, dissolved in a quarter of a pint of warm milk, a quarter
of a pound of butter rubbed into the flour very fine, —then make the
dough the same as for French rolls, &c.; let it stand half an hour;
then make up the cakes, and put them on tins:—when they have stood to
rise, bake them in a quick oven. Care should be taken never to mix the
yeast with water or milk too hot or too cold, as either extreme will
destroy the fermentation. In summer it should he lukewarm,—in winter
a little warmer, —and in very cold weather, warmer still. When it has
first risen, if you are not prepared, it will not harm if it stand an
hour.
1025. Cooking Instruments
1026. The Gridiron
The gridiron, though the simplest of cooking instruments, is by no
means to be despised. In common with all cooking utensils the
Gridiron should be kept scrupulously clean; and when it is used, the
bars should be allowed to get warm before the meat is placed upon it,
otherwise the parts crossed by the bars will be insufficiently
dressed. The fire should be sharp, clear, and free from smoke. The
heat soon forms a film upon the surface of the meat, by which the
juices are retained. Chops and steaks should not be too thick nor too
thin. From a half to three-quarters of an inch is the proper
thickness. Avoid thrusting the fork into the meat, by which you
release the juice. There is a description of gridiron in which the
bars are grooved to catch the juice of the meat, but a much better
invention is the upright gridiron, which is attached to the front of
the grate, and has a pan at the bottom to catch the gravy. Kidneys,
rashers, &c., dressed in this manner will he found delicious.
1027. The Frying-pan
The frying-pan is a noisy and a greasy servant, requiring much
watchfulness. Like the Gridiron, the Frying-pan requires a clear but
not a large fire, and the pan should be allowed to get thoroughly hot,
and be well covered with fat, before meat is put into it. The
excellence of frying very much depends upon the sweetness of the oil,
butter, lard, or fat that may be employed. The Frying-pan is very
useful in the warming of cold vegetables and other kinds of food, and
in this respect may be considered a real friend of economy. All know
the relish afforded by a pancake, to say nothing of eggs and bacon,
and various kinds of fish, to which both the Saucepan and the Gridiron
are quite unsuited, because they require that which is the essence of
frying,
boiling and browning in fat
.
1028. The Spit
The spit is a very ancient and very useful implement of cookery.
Perhaps the process of roasting stands only second in the rank of
excellence in cookery. The process is perfectly sound in its chemical
effects upon the food, while the joint is kept so immediately under
the eye of the cook, that it must be the fault of that functionary if
it does not go to the table in the highest state of perfection. The
process of roasting should be commenced very slowly, the meat being
kept a good distance from the fire, and gradually brought forward,
until it is thoroughly soaked within and browned without. The Spit has
this advantage over the Oven, and especially over the common oven,
that the meat retains its own flavour, not having to encounter the
evaporation from fifty different dishes, and that the steam from its
own substance passes entirely away, leaving the essence of the meat in
its primest condition.
Virtue is the Fairest of All.
1029. The Meat Hook
The meat hook has in the present day superseded the use of the Spit in
middle class families. It is thrust into the meat, and the joint
thereby suspended before the fire. For roasting in this manner the
lintel of the mantel-piece is furnished with a brass or iron arm,
turning on pivots in a plate fastened to the lintel, and notched along
its upper edge. From this arm, which is turned back against the lintel
when not in use, the meat is hung and turned by means of a bottle-jack
or a skein of worsted, knotted in three or four places, which answers
the purpose equally well, and may be replaced by a new one when
required, at a merely nominal cost. Meat roasted in this manner should
be turned occasionally, the hook being inserted first at one end and
then at the other.
1030. The Dutch Oven
The Dutch oven is of great utility for small dishes of various kinds,
which the Spit would spoil by the magnitude of its operations, or the
Oven destroy by the severity of its heat. It combines, in fact, the
advantages of roasting and baking, and may be adopted for compound
dishes, and for warming cold scraps: it is easily heated, and causes
no material expenditure of fuel.
1031. The Saucepan
When we come to speak of the Saucepan, we have to consider the claims
of a very large, ancient, and useful family. There are large
saucepans, dignified with the name of Boilers, and small saucepans,
which come under the denomination of Stewpans. There are few kinds of
meat or fish which the Saucepan will not receive, and dispose of in a
satisfactory manner; and few vegetables for which it is not adapted.
When rightly used, it is a very economical servant, allowing nothing
to be lost; that which escapes from the meat while in its charge forms
broth, or may be made the basis of soups. Fat rises upon the surface
of the water, and may be skimmed off; while in various stews it
combines, in an eminent degree, what we may term the
fragrance
of
cookery, and the
piquancy
of taste. The French are perfect masters
of the use of the Stewpan. And we shall find that, as all cookery is
but an aid to digestion, the operations of the Stewpan resemble the
action of the stomach very closely. The stomach is a close sac, in
which solids and fluids are mixed together, macerated in the gastric
juice, and dissolved by the aid of heat and motion, occasioned by the
continual contractions and relaxations of the coats of the stomach
during the action of digestion. This is more closely resembled by the
process of stewing than by any other of our culinary methods.
1032. Various Processes of Cooking
1033. Utility of the Kitchen
"In the hands of an expert cook," says Majendie, "alimentary
substances are made almost entirely to change their nature, their
form, consistence, odour, savour, colour, chemical composition, &c.;
everything is so modified, that it is often impossible for the most
exquisite sense of taste to recognise the substance which makes up
the basis of certain dishes. The greatest utility of the kitchen
consists in making the food agreeable to the senses, and rendering
it easy of digestion."
1034. Theory of Cooking
To some extent the claims of either process of cooking depend upon the
taste of the individual. Some persons may esteem the peculiar flavour
of fried meats, while others will prefer broils or stews. It is
important, however, to understand the
theory
of each method of
cooking, so that whichever may be adopted, may be done well. Bad
cooking, though by a good method, is far inferior to good cooking by a
bad method.
1035. Roasting—Beef
A sirloin of about fifteen pounds (if much more in weight the outside
will be done too much before the inner side is sufficiently roasted),
will require to be before the fire about three and a half or four
hours. Take care to spit it evenly, that it may not be heavier on one
side than the other; put a little clean dripping into the dripping
pan (tie a sheet of paper over it to preserve the fat) baste it well
as soon as it is put down, and every quarter of an hour all the time
it is roasting, till the last half-hour; then take off the paper and
make some gravy for it, stir the fire and make it clear; to brown and
froth it, sprinkle a little salt over it, baste it with butter, and
dredge it with flour; let it go a few minutes longer, till the froth
rises, take it up, put it on the dish, &c. Garnish it with
horseradish, scraped as fine as possible with a very sharp knife.
Vice is the Most Hurtful of All.
1036. Yorkshire Pudding
A Yorkshire Pudding is an excellent accompaniment to roast beef.
1037. Ribs of Beef
The first three ribs, of fifteen or twenty pounds, will take three
hours, or three and a half; the fourth and fifth ribs will take as
long, managed in the same way as the sirloin. Paper the fat and the
thin part, or it will be done too much, before the thick part is done
enough.
1038. Ribs of Beef boned and rolled
Keep two or three ribs of beef till quite tender, take out the bones,
and skewer the meat as round as possible, like a fillet of veal. Some
cooks egg it, and sprinkle it with veal stuffing before rolling it. As
the meat is in a solid mass, it will require more time at the fire
than ribs of beef with the bones: a piece of ten or twelve pounds
weight will not be well and thoroughly roasted in less than four and a
half or five hours. For the first half-hour it should not be less than
twelve inches from the fire, that it may get gradually warm to the
centre; the last half-hour before it is finished, sprinkle a little
salt over it, and, if you like, flour it, to froth it.
1039. Mutton
As beef requires a large sound fire, mutton must have a brisk and
sharp one: if you wish to have mutton tender it should be hung as long
as it will keep, and then good eight-tooth (
i. e.
,four years old)
mutton, is as good eating as venison.
1040. The Leg, Haunch, and Saddle
The leg, haunch, and saddle, will be the better for being hung up in a
cool airy place for four or five days, at least; in temperate weather,
a week: in cold weather, ten days, A leg of eight pounds will take
about two hours; let it be well basted.
1041. A Chine or Saddle
i. e.
the two loins, of ten or eleven pounds —two hours and a half.
It is the business of the butcher to take off the skin and skewer it
on again, to defend the meat from extreme heat, and preserve its
succulence. If this is neglected, tie a sheet of paper over it; baste
the strings you tie it on with directly, or they will burn. About a
quarter of an hour before you think it will be done, take off the skin
or paper, that it may get a pale brown colour, and then baste it, and
flour it lightly to froth it.
1042. A Shoulder
A shoulder, of seven pounds, an hour and three-quarters, or even two
hours. If a spit is used, put it in close to the shank-bone, and run
it along the blade-bone.