LANDS OF THE
SLAVE AND THE FREE:
OR,
Cuba, the United States, and Canada.
BY
CAPTAIN THE HON. HENRY A. MURRAY, R.N.
Entrance to a Coffee Planter's Residence.
Entrance to a Coffee Planter's Residence.
1857.
"He gave us only over beast, fish,
fowl,
Dominion absolute; that right we
hold
By his donation; but man over
man
He made not lord."
MILTON.
"Gone, gone—sold and
gone,
To the rice-swamp, dank and
lone;
There no mother's eye is near
them,
There no mother's ear can hear
them;
Never, when the torturing
lash
Seams their backs with many a
gash,
Shall a mother's kindness bless
them,
Or a mother's arms caress
them."
WHITTIER.
"LA CURIOSIDAD NUNCA SE ENFADA DE
SABER."[A]
ANTONIO PEREZ
"Oh, give me liberty!
For were even Paradise my
prison,
Still I would long to leap the
crystal walls."
DRYDEN.
"A happy bit hame this arrld[*]
warld wad be,
If men, whan they're here, would
make shift to agree,
And ilk said to his neebor in
cottage an' hall,
'Come, gie me your hand, we are
brethren all.'"
[Transcribers note *: illegible]
ROBERT NICOL.
TO NIF, NASUS, AND CO.,
THESE VOLUMES
Are Dedicated
AS A TOKEN OF THE SINCERE AND
AFFECTIONATE REGARD
OF THEIR OBEDIENT
SERVANT,
HENRY A. MURRAY.
LONDON, JUNE 1ST, 1855.
SECOND AND CHEAP EDITION.
The encouragement of friends, and the opinions expressed by a
large majority of those publications that considered the former
edition worthy of notice, have induced me to cut out many passages
which might possibly not interest the general reader, in order that
I might send it forth to the public in a more cheap and popular
form.
Writing upon such a subject as the United States, her
constitution, and her institutions, there was necessarily some
danger of a taint of political partisanship. I trust, however, I
may he considered to have redeemed the pledge I made of writing
"free from political bias," when I have found favour in the pages
of two publications so opposite in their politics as the
Westminster Review and the Press.
One weekly paper with pretensions to literary criticism (the
Athenaeum, September 15, 1855) did me the honour of making me
the object of its unmeasured censure; but, as I was forewarned that
my success would interfere with the prospects of one of its
contributors, I was prepared for its animadversions, though most
certainly I did not anticipate the good fortune of a zeal so
totally void of discretion, that the animus which guided the
critic's pen should be too transparent to impose upon even a
child.
Conceive a would-be critic, after various spasmodic efforts at
severity, selecting from among many comprehensive measures
suggested by me for the future emancipation, and for the present
benefit, of the slave, the proposition of "a proper instrument for
flogging, to be established by law," and that with the
evident intention of throwing ridicule on the idea. If the critic
were occasionally subject to the discipline of the various
instruments used for the punishment of the negro, his instinct
would soon teach him that which appears to be at present beyond the
grasp of his intellect, viz., the difference between a cow-hide and
a dog-whip; and if he knew anything of his own country, he could
scarcely be ignorant that the instruments used for corporal
punishment in army, navy, and prisons, are established by law or by
a custom, as strong as law. But enough of this Athenian Reviewer, I
offer for his reflection the old story, "Let her alone, poor thing;
it amuses her, and does me no harm." The next time he tries to
sling a stone, I hope he will not again crack his own skull in the
clumsy endeavour.
"Ill nature blended-with cold
blood
Will make a critic sound and
good.
This useful lesson hence we
learn,
Bad wine to good sound vinegar will
turn."
OLD PAMPHLET.
I now launch my barque upon a wider ocean than before. The
public must decide whether her sails shall flap listlessly against
the masts, or swell before a stiff and prosperous breeze.
H.A.M.
CONTENTS.
A CHAPTER GRATIS AND EXPLANATORY
CHAPTER I.
Make Ready—Fire—Departure.
FROM LONDON TO NEW YORK.
Preparations
LIVERPOOL—Embarkation Scenes
Scenes on Board
CAPE RACE
Pilot
NEW YORK
CHAPTER II.
Land of Stars and Stripes.
AT NEW YORK.
The First View
Custom House
Ferry Boat
First Impressions
Hospitality
American Hotels
Bar and Barbers
Bridal Chamber
Paddy Waiter
Feeding System
Streets and Buildings
Portrait Hatter
Advertisements
Loafing in Broadway
CHAPTER III.
Sights and Amusements.
AT NEW YORK.
Yacht Club and Dinner.
Railway Society to LONG ISLAND
Race Stand
Trotting Match
Metallic Coffin
American Horse
Hack Cabs and Drivers
Omnibuses
City Railway Cars
Travelling Railway Cars
Tickets for Luggage
Locomotive
Suggestions for Railway Companies
CHAPTER IV.
A Day on the North River.
FROM NEW YORK TO GENESEO.
Embark in Steamer on Hudson
Passengers and Anecdotes
Scenery of River
ALBANY—Disembark
A Hint for Travellers
Population and Prosperity
Railway through Town
Professor of Soap
CANANDAIGUA—Hospitality.
Early Education
Opposite System
Drive across Country—Snake Fences and Scenery
Churches—a Hint for the Highlands
Cheap Bait—GENESEO
CHAPTER V.
Geneseo.
AT GENESEO
Absence of Animal Life—Early Rising
View from the Terrace—Work of the Pioneer
Farm and System, Wages, &c.
A Drive—Family Scene
LAKE CANESUS
Plank road. Toll gates, &c.
Scotch Pikeman
CHAPTER VI.
Stirring Scenes and Strange Sights.
FROM GENESEO TO NEW YORK.
A Drive to BATAVIA—Railway Warning
Buffalo Railway Station and Yankee Cabby
Prosperity and Contrast
NIAGARA
ROCHESTER
A Live Bloomer
Advantage proved by Contrast
Reflections on Old Fashions
Pleasant Night
CHAPTER VII.
Construction and Destruction.
AT NEW YORK.
Cutter Yacht, "Black Maria"
Dinner on Board
Toddy and Chowder
Prosperity—Croton Aqueduct
Destruction of Dogs
Drive on the Bloomingdale Road
A Storm
CHAPTER VIII.
South and West.
FROM NEW YORK TO LOUISVILLE.
Ticket Station
PHILADELPHIA—Convenience
Luggage left behind
BALTIMORE—MAXWELL POINT
Canvas-back Ducks
Tolling for Ducks
Start by Rail—A Fix
HARRISBURGH—The Whittling Colonel
Start again. Pleasant Company
Inclined Planes—Canal Boat
Coaching Comfort
PITTSBURG
Railing through Forest, and Reflections
CLEVELAND—Mud-walk
To Sleep or not to Sleep
CINCINNATI—Statistics and Education
Porkopolis and Pigs
A bloody Scene
Ships at Marietta
OHIO—Levee and Literature
Embark on Steamer—Black Stewardess
Ibrahim Pacha and Fat
CHAPTER IX.
Scenes Ashore and Afloat.
FROM LOUISVILLE TO ST. LOUIS.
Fabrication of the Republican Bonbon
Wood Machinery
A Nine-inside Coach
Human Polecat
Breakfast and Cigar
versus
Foetor
Ferry Crossing—Travelling Beasts
Old Bell's and Old Bell
Cross Country Drive—Scenery
The Mammoth Cave
Old Bell and the Mail
Pleasant Companions
Rural Lavatory
Fat Boy and Circus Intelligence
LOUISVILLE and Advice
Ohio—A Bet at the Bar
A Dinner Scene and a Lady
Dessert and Toothpicks
Evening Recreation
CAIRO—Its Prospects
ST. LOUIS—Its Prosperity
CHAPTER X.
River Scenes.
FROM ST. LOUIS TO NEW ORLEANS.
MISSISSIPPI—Good-natured Weakness
Mississippi
v
. Missouri
Stale Anecdote revived
Marriage Certificate
Folly—Description of Steamer
Inspection Farce described
Corporal Punishment—Illustration
Captain of Mizen Top
v
. White Nigger
Scenery
Mississippi—Good night
Screecher & Burster—A Race
Captain leaves us
Bed—Alarm—Wreck
Brutal Heartlessness
River Wreckers
NEW ORLEANS
Wrecks, Causes and Remedies
Anecdotes of Blood
CHAPTER XI.
New Orleans.
FROM NEW ORLEANS TO HAVANA.
Situation and Bustle
Cotton, Tobacco and Sugar
Steamers, and Wages
Streets, Hotels, &c
A Friend in Need. Neighbourhood, Shell-road
Society and Remarks
Rough-and-Tumble—Lola Montez
A Presbyterian Church
The Gold Man
Autocracy of the Police
Law—Boys and Processions
Duel Penalties—Stafford House Address
Clubs
Spanish Consul and Passport
Parting Cadeau
Pilot Dodge
Purser Smith
Sneezing Dangerous—Selecting a Companion
HAVANA
CHAPTER XII.
The Queen of the Antilles.
AT CUBA.
Volante
Lively Funeral
A Light to a Cigar
Evening Amusement
Trip to MATANZAS—El Casero
Slave Plantation
Sugar Making
Luxuriant Vegetation
Punic Faith and Cuban Cruelty
H.M.S. "Vestal"
Bribery
Admiralty Wisdom
Cigars and Manufactory
Population—Chinese
Laws of Domicile—Police and Slavery
Increase of Slaves and Produce
Tobacco, Games, and Lotteries
Cuban Jokes
Sketch of Governors
The Future of Cuba?
CHAPTER XIII.
Change of Dynasty.
FROM CUBA TO BALTIMORE.
KEY POINT
Vulgar Hebrew
CHARLESTON, WASHINGTON
Night and Morning
Congress and Inauguration
General Jackson and Changes
Cabmen and City
Shopman and Drinking
Levees and Buildings
BALTIMORE and Terrapin
The Drama
Progress—Fire Companies
CHAPTER XIV.
Philadelphia and Richmond.
FROM BALTIMORE TO RICHMOND.
PHILADELPHIA and Hospitality.
Streets—Mint
Gerard College