The second year of sickness and I was affected with the
rest, though it was not generally so bad as the first year. I
suffered a great deal and felt so miserable that I began to
think I had rather live on the top of the Rocky Mountains and
catch chipmuncks for a living than to live here and be sick,
and I began to have very serious thoughts of trying some other
country. In the winter of 1839 and 1840 I went to a
neighboring school for three months, where I studied reading,
writing and spelling, getting as far as Rule of Three in
Daboll's arithmetic. When school was out I chopped and split
rails for Wm. Hanna till I had paid my winter's board. After
this, myself and a young man named Orrin Henry, with whom I
had become acquainted, worked awhile scoring timber to be used
in building the Michigan Central Railroad which had just then
begun to be built. They laid down the ties first (sometimes a
mudsill under them) and then put down four by eight wooden
rails with a strips of band iron half an inch thick spiked on
top. I scored the timber and Henry used the broad axe after
me. It was pretty hard work and the hours as long as we could
see, our wages being $13 per month, half cash.
In thinking over our prospect it seemed more and more as if
I had better look out for my own fortune in some other place.
The farm was pretty small for all of us. There were three
brothers younger than I, and only 200 acres in the whole, and
as they were growing up to be men it seemed as if it would be
best for me, the oldest, to start out first and see what could
be done to make my own living. I talked to father and mother
about my plans, and they did not seriously object, but gave me
some good advice, which I remember to this
day—"Weigh well every thing you do; shun bad
company; be honest and deal fair; be truthful and never fear
when you know you are right." But, said he, "Our
little peach trees will bear this year, and if you go away you
must come back and help us eat them; they will be the first we
ever raised or ever saw." I could not promise.
Henry and I drew our pay for our work. I had five dollars
in cash and the rest in pay from the company's store. We
purchased three nice whitewood boards, eighteen inches wide,
from which we made us a boat and a good sized chest which we
filled with provisions and some clothing and quilts. This,
with our guns and ammunition, composed the cargo of our boat.
When all was ready, we put the boat on a wagon and were to
haul it to the river some eight miles away for embarkation.
After getting the wagon loaded, father said to
me;—"Now my son, you are starting out in life
alone, no one to watch or look after you. You will have to
depend upon yourself in all things. You have a wide, wide
world to operate in—you will meet all kinds of people
and you must not expect to find them all honest or true
friends. You are limited in money, and all I can do for you in
that way is to let you have what ready money I have." He
handed me three dollars as he spoke, which added to my own
gave me seven dollars as my money capital with which to start
out into the world among perfect strangers, and no
acquaintances in prospect on our Western course.
When ready to start, mother and sister Poll came out to see
us off and to give us their best wishes, hoping we would have
good health, and find pleasant paths to follow. Mother said to
me:—"You must be a good boy, honest and
law-abiding. Remember our advice, and honor us for we have
striven to make you a good and honest man, and you must follow
our teachings, and your conscience will be clear. Do nothing
to be ashamed of; be industrious, and you have no fear of
punishment." We were given a great many "Good
byes" and "God bless you's" as with hands, hats
and handkerchiefs they waved us off as far as we could see
them. In the course of an hour or so we were at the water's
edge, and on a beautiful morning in early spring of 1840 we
found ourselves floating down the Grand River below
Jackson.
The stream ran west, that we knew, and it was west we
thought we wanted to go, so all things suited us. The stream
was small with tall timber on both sides, and so many trees
had fallen into the river that our navigation was at times
seriously obstructed. When night came we hauled our boat on
shore, turned it partly over, so as to shelter us, built a
fire in front, and made a bed on a loose board which we
carried in the bottom of the boat. We talked till pretty late
and then lay down to sleep, but for my part my eyes would not
stay shut, and I lay till break of day and the little birds
began to sing faintly.
I thought of many things that night which seemed so long. I
had left a good dear home, where I had good warm meals and a
soft and comfortable bed. Here I had reposed on a board with a
very hard pillow and none too many blankets, and I turned from
side to side on my hard bed, to which I had gone with all my
clothes on. It seemed the beginning of another chapter in my
pioneer life and a rather tough experience. I arose, kindled a
big fire and sat looking at the glowing coals in still further
meditation.
Neither of us felt very gleeful as we got our breakfast and
made an early start down the river again. Neither of us talked
very much, and no doubt my companion had similar thoughts to
mine, and wondered what was before us. But I think that as a
pair we were at that moment pretty lonesome. Henry had rested
better than I but probably felt no less keenly the separation
from our homes and friends. We saw plenty of squirrels and
pigeons on the trees which overhung the river, and we shot and
picked up as many as we thought we could use for food. When we
fired our guns the echoes rolled up and down the river for
miles making the feeling of loneliness still more keen, as the
sound died faintly away. We floated along generally very
quietly. We could see the fish dart under our boat from their
feeding places along the bank, and now and then some tall
crane would spread his broad wings to get out of our way.
We saw no houses for several days, and seldom went on
shore. The forest was all hard wood, such as oak, ash, walnut,
maple, elm and beech. Farther down we occasionally passed the
house of some pioneer hunter or trapper, with a small patch
cleared. At one of these a big green boy came down to the bank
to see who we were. We said "How d'you do," to him,
and, getting no response, Henry asked him how far is was to
Michigan, at which a look of supreme disgust came over his
features as he replied—"'Taint no far at
all."
The stream grew wider as we advanced along its downward
course, for smaller streams came pouring in to swell its tide.
The banks were still covered with heavy timber, and in some
places with quite thick undergrowth. One day we saw a black
bear in the river washing himself, but he went ashore before
we were near enough to get a sure shot at him. Many deer
tracks were seen along the shore, but as we saw very few of
the animals themselves, they were probably night visitors.
One day we overtook some canoes containing Indians, men,
women and children. They were poling their craft around in all
directions spearing fish. They caught many large mullet and
then went on shore and made camp, and the red ladies began
scaling the fish. As soon as their lords and masters had
unloaded the canoes, a party started out with four of the
boats, two men in a boat, to try their luck again. They ranged
all abreast, and moved slowly down the stream in the still
deep water, continually beating the surface with their spear
handles, till they came to a place so shallow that they could
see the bottom easily, when they suddenly turned the canoes
head up stream, and while one held the craft steady by
sticking his spear handle down on the bottom, the other stood
erect, with a foot on either gunwale so he could see whatever
came down on either side. Soon the big fish would try to pass,
but Mr. Indian had too sharp an eye to let him escape
unobserved, and when he came within his reach he would turn
his spear and throw it like a dart, seldom missing his aim.
The poor fish would struggle desperately, but soon came to the
surface, when he would be drawn in and knocked in the head
with a tomahawk to quiet him, when the spear was cut out and
the process repeated. We watched them about an hour, and
during that time some one of the boats was continually hauling
in a fish. They were sturgeon and very large. This was the
first time we had ever seen the Indian's way of catching fish
and it was a new way of getting grub for us. When the canoes
had full loads they paddled up toward their camp, and we
drifted on again.
When we came to Grand Rapids we had to go on shore and tow
our boat carefully along over the many rocks to prevent
accident. Here was a small cheap looking town. On the west
bank of the river a water wheel was driving a drill boring for
salt water, it seemed through solid rock. Up to this time the
current was slow, and its course through a dense forest. We
occasionally saw an Indian gliding around in his canoe, but no
houses or clearings. Occasionally we saw some pine logs which
had been floated down some of the streams of the north. One of
these small rivers they called the "Looking-glass,"
and seemed to be the largest of them.
Passing on we began to see some pine timber, and realized
that we were near the mouth of the river where it emptied into
Lake Michigan. There were some steam saw mills here, not then
in operation, and some houses for the mill hands to live in
when they were at work. This prospective city was called Grand
Haven. There was one schooner in the river loaded with lumber,
ready to sail for the west side of the lake as soon as the
wind should change and become favorable, and we engaged
passage for a dollar and a half each. While waiting for the
wind we visited the woods in search of game, but found none.
All the surface of the soil was clear lake sand, and some
quite large pine and hemlock trees were half buried in it. We
were not pleased with this place for it looked as if folks
must get their grub from somewhere else or live on fish.
Next morning we were off early, as the wind had changed,
but the lake was very rough and a heavy choppy sea was
running. Before we were half way across the lake nearly all
were sea-sick, passengers and sailors. The poor fellow at the
helm stuck to his post casting up his accounts at the same
time, putting on an air of terrible misery.
This, I thought was pretty hard usage for a land-lubber
like myself who had never been on such rough water before. The
effect of this sea-sickness was to cure me of a slight fever
and ague, and in fact the cure was so thorough that I have
never had it since. As we neared the western shore a few
houses could be seen, and the captain said it was Southport.
As there was no wharf our schooner put out into the lake again
for an hour or so and then ran back again, lying off and on in
this manner all night. In the morning it was quite calm and we
went on shore in the schooner's yawl, landing on a sandy
beach. We left our chest of clothes and other things in a
warehouse and shouldered our packs and guns for a march across
what seemed an endless prairie stretching to the west. We had
spent all our lives thus far in a country where all the
clearing had to be made with an axe, and such a broad field
was to us an entirely new feature. We laid our course westward
and tramped on. The houses were very far apart, and we tried
at every one of them for a chance to work, but could get none,
not even if we would work for our board. The people all seemed
to be new settlers, and very poor, compelled to do their own
work until a better day could be reached. The coarse meals we
got were very reasonable, generally only ten cents, but
sometimes a little more.
As we travelled westward the prairies seemed smaller with
now and then some oak openings between. Some of the farms
seemed to be three or four years old, and what had been laid
out as towns consisted of from three to six houses, small and
cheap, with plenty of vacant lots. The soil looked rich, as
though it might be very productive. We passed several small
lakes that had nice fish in them, and plenty of ducks on the
surface.
Walking began to get pretty tiresome. Great blisters would
come on our feet, and, tender as they were, it was a great
relief to take off our boots and go barefoot for a while when
the ground was favorable. We crossed a wide prairie and came
down to the Rock river where there were a few houses on the
east side but no signs of habitation on the west bank. We
crossed the river in a canoe and then walked seven miles
before we came to a house where we staid all night and
inquired for work. None was to be had and so we tramped on
again. The next day we met a real live Yankee with a one-horse
wagon, peddling tin ware in regular Eastern style. We inquired
of him about the road and prospects, and he gave us an
encouraging idea—said all was good. He told us where to
stop the next night at a small town called Sugar Creek. It had
but a few houses and was being built up as a mining town, for
some lead ore had been found there. There were as many Irish
as English miners here, a rough class of people. We put up at
the house where we had been directed, a low log cabin, rough
and dirty, kept by Bridget & Co. Supper was had after dark
and the light on the table was just the right one for the
place, a saucer of grease, with a rag in it lighted and
burning at the edge of the saucer. It at least served to made
the darkness apparent and to prevent the dirt being visible.
We had potatoes, beans and tea, and probably dirt too, if we
could have seen it. When the meal was nearly done Bridget
brought in and deposited on each plate a good thick pancake as
a dessert. It smelled pretty good, but when I drew my knife
across it to cut it in two, all the center was uncooked
batter, which ran out upon my plate, and spoiled my
supper.
We went to bed and soon found it had other occupants beside
ourselves, which, if they were small were lively and spoiled
our sleeping. We left before breakfast, and a few miles out on
the prairie we came to a house occupied by a woman and one
child, and we were told we could have breakfast if we could
wait to have it cooked. Everything looked cheap but cheery,
and after waiting a little while outside we were called in to
eat. The meal consisted of corn bread, bacon, potatoes and
coffee. It was well cooked and looked better than things did
at Bridget's. I enjoyed all but the coffee, which had a rich
brown color, but when I sipped it there was such a bitter
taste I surely thought there must be quinine in it, and it
made me shiver. I tried two or three times to drink but it was
too much for me and I left it. We shouldered our loads and
went on again. I asked Henry what kind of a drink it was.
"Coffee," said he, but I had never seen any that
tasted like that and never knew my father to buy any such
coffee as that.
We labored along and in time came to another small place
called Hamilton's Diggings where some lead mines were being
worked. We stopped at a long, low log house with a porch the
entire length, and called for bread and milk, which was soon
set before us. The lady was washing and the man was playing
with a child on the porch. The little thing was trying to
walk, the man would swear terribly at it—not in an angry
way, but in a sort of careless, blasphemous style that was
terribly shocking. I thought of the child being reared in the
midst of such bad language and reflected on the kind of people
we were meeting in this far away place. They seemed more
wicked and profane the farther west we walked. I had always
lived in a more moral and temperate atmosphere, and I was
learning more of some things in the world than I had ever
known before. I had little to say and much to see and listen
to and my early precepts were not forgotten. No work was to be
had here and we set out across the prairie toward Mineral
Point, twenty miles away. When within four miles of that place
we stopped at the house of Daniel Parkinson, a fine looking
two-story building, and after the meal was over Mr. Henry
hired out to him for $16 per month, and went to work that day.
I heard of a job of cutting cordwood six miles away and went
after it, for our money was getting very scarce, but when I
reached the place I found a man had been there half an hour
before and secured the job. The proprietor, Mr. Crow, gave me
my dinner which I accepted with many thanks, for it saved my
coin to pay for the next meal. I now went to Mineral Point,
and searched the town over for work. My purse contained
thirty-five cents only and I slept in an unoccupied out house
without supper. I bought crackers and dried beef for ten cents
in the morning and made my first meal since the day before,
felt pretty low-spirited. I then went to Vivian's smelting
furnace where they bought lead ore, smelted it, and run it
into pigs of about 70 pounds each. He said he had a job for me
if I could do it. The furnace was propelled by water and they
had a small buzz saw for cutting four-foot wood into blocks
about a foot long. These blocks they wanted split up in pieces
about an inch square to mix in with charcoal in smelting ore.
He said he would board me with the other men, and give me a
dollar and a quarter a cord for splitting the wood. I felt
awfully poor, and a stranger, and this was a beginning for me
at any rate, so I went to work with a will and never lost a
minute of daylight till I had split up all the wood and filled
his woodhouse completely up. The board was very
coarse—bacon, potatoes, and bread—a man cook, and
bread mixed up with salt and water. The old log house where we
lodged was well infested with troublesome insects which worked
nights at any rate, whether they rested days or not, and the
beds had a mild odor of pole cat. The house was long, low and
without windows. In one end was a fireplace, and there were
two tiers of bunks on each side, supplied with straw only. In
the space between the bunks was a stationary table, with
stools for seats. I was the only American who boarded there
and I could not well become very familiar with the
boarders.
The country was rolling, and there were many beautiful
brooks and clear springs of water, with fertile soil. The
Cornish miners were in the majority and governed the locality
politically. My health was excellent, and so long as I had my
gun and ammunition I could kill game enough to live on, for
prairie chickens and deer could be easily killed, and meat
alone would sustain life, so I had no special fears of
starvation. I was now paid off, and went back to see my
companion, Mr. Henry. I did not hear of any more work, so I
concluded I would start back toward my old home in Michigan,
and shouldered my bundle and gun, turning my face eastward for
a long tramp across the prairie. I knew I had a long tramp
before me, but I thought best to head that way, for my capital
was only ten dollars, and I might be compelled to walk the
whole distance. I walked till about noon and then sat down in
the shade of a tree to rest for this was June and pretty warm.
I was now alone in a big territory, thinly settled, and
thought of my father's home, the well set table, all happy and
well fed at any rate, and here was my venture, a sort of
forlorn hope. Prospects were surely very gloomy for me here
away out west in Wisconsin Territory, without a relative,
friend or acquaintance to call upon, and very small means to
travel two hundred and fifty miles of lonely
road—perhaps all the way on foot. There were no laborers
required, hardly any money in sight, and no chance for
business. I knew it would be a safe course to proceed toward
home, for I had no fear of starving, the weather was warm and
I could easily walk home long before winter should come again.
Still the outlook was not very pleasing to one in my
circumstances.
I chose a route which led me some distance north of the one
we travelled when we came west, but it was about the same.
Every house was a new settler, and hardly one who had yet
produced anything to live upon. In due time I came to the Rock
River, and the only house in sight was upon the east bank. I
could see a boat over there and so I called for it, and a
young girl came over with a canoe for me. I took a paddle and
helped her hold the boat against the current, and we made the
landing safely. I paid her ten cents for ferriage and went on
again. The country was now level, with burr-oak openings. Near
sundown I came to a small prairie of about 500 acres
surrounded by scattering burr-oak timber, with not a hill in
sight, and it seemed to me to be the most beautiful spot on
earth. This I found to belong to a man named Meachem, who had
an octagon concrete house built on one side of the opening.
The house had a hollow column in the center, and the roof was
so constructed that all the rain water went down this central
column into a cistern below for house use. The stairs wound
around this central column, and the whole affair was quite
different from the most of settlers' houses. I staid here all
night, had supper and breakfast, and paid my bill of
thirty-five cents. He had no work for me so I went on again. I
crossed Heart Prairie, passed through a strip of woods, and
out at Round Prairie. It was level as a floor with a slight
rise in one corner, and on it were five or six settlers. Here
fortune favored me, for here I found a man whom I knew, who
once lived in Michigan, and was one of our neighbors there for
some time. His name was Nelson Cornish. I rested here a few
days, and made a bargain to work for him two or three days
every week for my board as long as I wished to stay. As I got
acquainted I found some work to do and many of my leisure
hours I spent in the woods with my gun, killing some deer,
some of the meat of which I sold. In haying and harvest I got
some work at fifty cents to one dollar per day, and as I had
no clothes to buy, I spent no money, saving up about fifty
dollars by fall. I then got a letter from Henry saying that I
could get work with him for the winter and I thought I would
go back there again.
Before thinking of going west again I had to go to
Southport on the lake and get our clothes we had left in our
box when we passed in the spring. So I started one morning at
break of day, with a long cane in each hand to help me along,
for I had nothing to carry, not even wearing a coat. This was
a new road, thinly settled, and a few log houses building. I
got a bowl of bread and milk at noon and then hurried on
again. The last twenty miles was clear prairie, and houses
were very far apart, but little more thickly settled as I
neared Lake Michigan. I arrived at the town just after dark,
and went to a tavern and inquired about the things. I was told
that the warehouse had been broken into and robbed, and the
proprietor had fled for parts unknown. This robbed me of all
my good clothes, and I could now go back as lightly loaded as
when I came. I found I had walked sixty miles in that one day,
and also found myself very stiff and sore so that I did not
start back next day, and I took three days for the return
trip—a very unprofitable journey.
I was now ready to go west, and coming across a pet deer
which I had tamed, I knew if I left it it would wander away
with the first wild ones that came along, and so I killed it
and made my friends a present of some venison. I chose still a
new route this time, that I could see all that was possible of
this big territory when I could do it so easily. I was always
a great admirer of Nature and things which remained as they
were created, and to the extent of my observation, I thought
this the most beautiful and perfect country I had seen between
Vermont and the Mississippi River. The country was nearly
level, the land rich, the prairies small with oak openings
surrounding them, very little marsh land and streams of clear
water. Rock River was the largest of these, running south.
Next west was Sugar River, then the Picatonica. Through the
mining region the country was rolling and abundantly watered
with babbling brooks and health-giving springs.
In point of health it seemed to me to be far better than
Michigan. In Mr. Henry's letter to me he had said that he had
taken a timber claim in "Kentuck Grove," and had all
the four-foot wood engaged to cut at thirty-seven cents a
cord. He said we could board ourselves and save a little money
and that in the spring he would go back to Michigan with me.
This had decided me to go back to Mineral Point. I stopped a
week or two with a man named Webb, hunting with him, and sold
game enough to bring me in some six or seven dollars, and then
resumed my journey.
On my way I found a log house ten miles from a neighbor
just before I got to the Picatonica River. It belonged to a
Mr. Shook who, with his wife and three children, lived on the
edge of a small prairie, and had a good crop of corn. He
invited me to stay with him a few days, and as I was tired I
accepted his offer and we went out together and brought in a
deer. We had plenty of corn bread, venison and coffee, and
lived well. After a few days he wanted to kill a steer and he
led it to a proper place while I shot it in the head. We had
no way to hang it up so he rolled the intestines out, and I
sat down with my side against the steer and helped him to pull
the tallow off.
It was now getting nearly dark and while he was splitting
the back bone with an axe, it slipped in his greasy hands and
glancing, cut a gash in my leg six inches above the knee. I
was now laid up for two or three weeks, but was well cared for
at his house. Before I could resume my journey snow had fallen
to the depth of about six inches, which made it rather
unpleasant walking, but in a few days I reached Mr. Henry's
camp in "Kentuck Grove," when after comparing notes,
we both began swinging our axes and piling up cordwood,
cooking potatoes, bread, bacon, coffee and flapjacks
ourselves, which we enjoyed with a relish.
I now went to work for Peter Parkinson, who paid me
thirteen dollars per month, and I remained with him till
spring. While with him a very sad affliction came to him in
the loss of his wife. He was presented by her with his first
heir, and during her illness she was cared for by her mother,
Mrs. Cullany, who had come to live with them during the
winter. When the little babe was two or three weeks old the
mother was feeling in such good spirits that she was left
alone a little while, as Mrs. Cullany was attending to some
duties which called her elsewhere. When she returned she was
surprised to see that both Mrs. Parkinson and the babe were
gone. Everyone turned out to search for her. I ran to the
smokehouse, the barn, the stable in quick order, and not
finding her a search was made for tracks, and we soon
discovered that she had passed over a few steps leading over a
fence and down an incline toward the spring house, and there
fallen, face downward, on the floor of the house which was
covered only a few inches deep with water lay the unfortunate
woman and her child, both dead. This was doubly distressing to
Mr. Parkinson and saddened the whole community. Both were
buried in one grave, not far from the house, and a more
impressive funeral I never beheld.
I now worked awhile again with Mr. Henry and we sold our
wood to Bill Park, a collier, who made and sold charcoal to
the smelters of lead ore. When the ice was gone in the
streams, Henry and I shouldered our guns and bundles, and made
our way to Milwaukee, where we arrived in the course of a few
days. The town was small and cheaply built, and had no wharf,
so that when the steamboat came we had to go out to it in a
small boat. The stream which came in here was too shallow for
the steamer to enter. When near the lower end of the lake we
stopped at an island to take on food and several cords of
white birch wood. The next stopping place was at
Michilamackanac, afterward called Mackinaw. Here was a short
wharf, and a little way back a hill, which seemed to me to be
a thousand feet high, on which a fort had been built. On the
wharf was a mixed lot of people—Americans, Canadians,
Irish, Indians, squaws and papooses. I saw there some of the
most beautiful fish I had ever seen. They would weigh twenty
pounds or more, and had bright red and yellow spots all over
them. They called them trout, and they were beauties, really.
At the shore near by the Indians were loading a large white
birch bark canoe, putting their luggage along the middle
lengthways, and the papooses on top. One man took a stern seat
to steer, and four or five more had seats along the gunwale as
paddlers and, as they moved away, their strokes were as even
and regular as the motions of an engine, and their crafts
danced as lightly on the water as an egg shell. They were
starting for the Michigan shore some eight or ten miles away.
This was the first birch bark canoe I had ever seen and was a
great curiosity in my eyes.
We crossed Lake Huron during the night, and through its
outlet, so shallow that the wheels stirred up the mud from the
bottom; then through Lake St. Clair and landed safety at
Detroit next day. Here we took the cars on the Michigan
Central Railroad, and on our way westward stopped at the very
place where we had worked, helping to build the road, a year
or more before. After getting off the train a walk of two and
one half miles brought me to my father's house, where I had a
right royal welcome, and the questions they asked me about the
wild country I had traveled over, how it looked, and how I got
along—were numbered by the thousand.
I remained at home until fall, getting some work to do by
which I saved some money, but in August was attacked with
bilious fever, which held me down for several weeks, but
nursed by a tender and loving mother with untiring care, I
recovered, quite slowly, but surely. I felt that I had been
close to death, and that this country was not to be compared
to Wisconsin with its clear and bubbling springs of
health-giving water. Feeling thus, I determined to go back
there again.
With the idea of returning to Wisconsin I made plans for my
movements. I purchased a good outfit of steel traps of several
kinds and sizes, thirty or forty in all, made me a pine chest,
with a false bottom to separate the traps from my clothing
when it was packed in traveling order, the clothes at the top.
My former experience had taught me not to expect to get work
there during winter, but I was pretty sure something could be
earned by trapping and hunting at this season, and in summer I
was pretty sure of something to do. I had about forty dollars
to travel on this time, and quite a stock of experience. The
second parting from home was not so hard as the first one. I
went to Huron, took the steamer to Chicago, then a small,
cheaply built town, with rough sidewalks and terribly muddy
streets, and the people seemed pretty rough, for sailors and
lake captains were numerous, and knock downs quite frequent.
The country for a long way west of town seemed a low, wet
marsh or prairie.
Finding a man going west with a wagon and two horses
without a load, I hired him to take me and my baggage to my
friend Nelson Cornish, at Round Prairie. They were glad to see
me, and as I had not yet got strong from my fever, they
persuaded me to stay a while with them and take some medicine,
for he was a sort of a doctor. I think he must have given me a
dose of calomel, for I had a terribly sore mouth and could not
eat any for two or three weeks. As soon as I was able to
travel I had myself and chest taken to the stage station on
the line for the lake to Mineral Point. I think this place was
called Geneva. On the stage I got along pretty fast, and part
of the time on a new road. The first place of note was Madison
the capital of the territory, situated on a block of land
nearly surrounded by four lakes, all plainly seen from the big
house. Further on at the Blue Mounds I left the stage, putting
my chest in the landlord's keeping till I should come or send
for it.
I walked about ten miles to the house of a friend named A.
Bennett, who was a hunter and lived on the bank of the
Picatonica River with his wife and two children. I had to take
many a rest on the way, for I was very weak.
Resting the first few days, Mrs. Bennett's father, Mr. J.P.
Dilly, took us out about six miles and left us to hunt and
camp for a few days. We were quite successful, and killed five
nice, fat deer, which we dressed and took to Mineral Point,
selling them rapidly to the Cornish miners for twenty-five
cents a quarter for the meat. We followed this business till
about January first, when the game began to get poor, when we
hung up our guns for a while. I had a little money left yet.
The only money in circulation was American silver and British
sovereigns. They would not sell lead ore for paper money nor
on credit. During the spring I used my traps successfully, so
that I saved something over board and expenses.
In summer I worked in the mines with Edwin Buck of
Bucksport, Maine, but only found lead ore enough to pay our
expenses in getting it. Next winter I chopped wood for
thirty-five cents per cord and boarded myself. This was poor
business; poorer than hunting. In summer I found work at
various things, but in the fall Mr. Buck and myself concluded
that as we were both hunters and trappers, we would go
northward toward Lake Superior on a hunting expedition, and,
perhaps remain all winter. We replenished our outfit, and
engaged Mr. Bennett to take us well up into the north country.
We crossed the Wisconsin River near Muscoda, went then to
Prairie du Chien, where we found a large stone fur trading
house, owned by Mr. Brisbois, a Frenchman, from whom we
obtained some information of the country further on. He
assured us there was no danger from the Indians if we let them
alone and treated them fairly.
We bought fifty pounds of flour for each of us, and then
started up the divide between the Wisconsin and Mississippi
Rivers. On one side flowed the Bad River, and on the other the
Kickapoo. We traveled on this divide about three days, when
Mr. Bennett became afraid to go any further, as he had to
return alone and the Indians might capture him before he could
get back to the settlement. We camped early one night and went
out hunting to get some game for him. I killed a large, black
bear and Mr. Bennett took what he wanted of it, including the
skin, and started back next morning.
We now cachéd our things in various places,
scattering them well. Some went in hollow logs, and some under
heaps of brush or other places, where the Indians could not
find them. We then built a small cabin about six by eight feet
in size and four feet high, in shape like a A. We were not
thoroughly pleased with this location and started out to
explore the country to the north of us, for we had an idea
that it would be better hunting there.
The first day we started north we killed a bear, and filled
our stomachs with the fat, sweet meat. The next night we
killed another bear after a little struggling. The dog made
him climb a tree and we shot at him; he would fall to the
ground as if dead, but would be on his feet again in an
instant, when, after the dog had fastened to his ham, he would
climb the tree again. In the third trial he lay in the fork
and had a good chance to look square at his tormentor. I shot
him in the head, and as he lay perfectly still, Buck
said:—"Now you have done it—we can't get
him." But in a moment he began to struggle, and soon came
down, lifeless.
Here we camped on the edge of the pine forest, ate all the
fat bear meat we could, and in the morning took separate
routes, agreeing to meet again a mile or so farther up a small
brook. I soon saw a small bear walking on a log and shot him
dead. His mate got away, but I set my dog on him and he soon
had to climb a tree. When I came up to where the dog was
barking I saw Mr. Bear and fired a ball in him that brought
him down. Just then I heard Mr. Buck shoot close by, and I
went to him and found he had killed another and larger bear.
We stayed here another night, dressed our game and sunk the
meat in the brook and fastened it down, thinking we might want
to get some of it another time.
We were so well pleased with this hunting ground that we
took the bear skins and went back to camp. When we got there
our clothes were pretty well saturated with bear's oil, and we
jokingly said it must have soaked through our bodies, we had
eaten so much bear meat. I began to feel quite sick, and had a
bad headache. I felt as if something must be done, but we had
no medicine. Mr. Buck went down by the creek and dug some
roots he called Indian Physic, then steeped them until the
infusion seemed as black as molasses, and, when cool told me
to take a swallow every fifteen minutes for an hour, then half
as much for another hour as long as I could keep it down. I
followed directions and vomited freely and for a long time,
but felt better afterward, and soon got well. It reminded me
some of the feelings I had when I was seasick on Lake
Michigan.
It may be interesting to describe how we were dressed to
enter on this winter campaign. We wore moccasins of our own
make. I had a buckskin jumper, and leggins that came up to my
hips. On my head a drab hat that fitted close and had a rim
about two inches wide. In fair weather I went bare-headed,
Indian fashion. I carried a tomahawk which I had made. The
blade was two inches wide and three inches long—the poll
two inches long and about as large round as a dime; handle
eighteen or twenty inches long with a knob on the end so it
would not easily slip from the hand. Oiled patches for our
rifle balls on a string, a firing wire, a charger to measure
the powder, and a small piece of leather with four nipples on
it for caps—all on my breast, so that I could load very
rapidly. My bed was a comfort I made myself, a little larger
than usual. I lay down on one side of the bed and with my gun
close to me, turned the blanket over me. When out of camp I
never left my gun out of my reach. We had to be real Indians
in custom and actions in order to be considered their equals.
We got our food in the same way they did, and so they had
nothing to ask us for. They considered themselves the real
kings of the forest.
We now determined to move camp, which proved quite a job as
we had to pack everything on our backs; which we did for ten
or fifteen miles to the bank of a small stream where there
were three pine trees, the only ones to be found in many
miles. We made us a canoe of one of them. While we were making
the canoe three Indians came along, and after they had eaten
some of our good venison, they left us. These were the first
we had seen, and we began to be more cautious and keep
everything well hid away from camp and make them think we were
as poor as they were, so they might not be tempted to molest
us.
We soon had the canoe done and loaded, and embarked on the
brook down stream. We found it rather difficult work, but the
stream grew larger and we got along very well. We came to one
place where otter signs seemed fresh, and stopped to set a
trap for them. Our dog sat on the bank and watched the
operation, and when we started on we could not get him to ride
or follow. Soon we heard him cry and went back to find he had
the trap on his fore foot. To get it off we had to put a
forked stick over his neck and hold him down, he was so
excited over his mishap. When he was released he left at full
speed and was never seen by us after.
When we got well into the pine woods we camped and cached
our traps and provisions on an island, and made our camp
further down the stream and some little distance from the
shore. We soon found this was very near a logging camp, and as
no one had been living there for a year, we moved camp down
there and occupied one of the empty cabins. We began to set
dead-fall traps in long lines in many different directions,
blazing the trees so we could find them if the snow came on.
West of this about ten miles, where we had killed some deer
earlier, we made a A-shaped cabin and made dead falls many
miles around to catch fishes, foxes, mink and raccoons. We
made weekly journeys to the places and generally staid about
two nights.
One day when going over my trap lines I came to a trap
which I had set where I had killed a deer, and saw by the snow
that an eagle had been caught in the trap and had broken the
chain and gone away. I followed on the trail he made and soon
found him. He tried to fly but the trap was too heavy, and he
could only go slowly and a little way. I fired and put a ball
in him and he fell and rolled under a large log on the
hillside. As I took the trap off I saw an Indian coming down
the hill and brought my gun to bear on him. He stopped
suddenly and made signs not to shoot, and I let him come up.
He made signs that he wanted the feathers of the bird which I
told him to take, and then he wanted to know where we slept. I
pointed out the way and made him go ahead of me there, for I
did not want him behind me. At camp he made signs for
something to eat, but when I showed him meat he shook his
head. However he took a leg of deer and started on, I
following at a good distance till satisfied that he would not
come back.
We had not taken pains to keep track of the day of the week
or month; the rising and setting of the sun and the changes of
the moon were all the almanacs we had. Then snow came about a
foot deep, and some days were so cold we could not leave our
camp fire at all. As no Indians appeared we were quite
successful and kept our bundle of furs in a hollow standing
tree some distance from camp, and when we went that way we
never stopped or left any sign that we had a deposit
there.
Some time after it was all frozen up solid, some men with
two yoke of oxen came up to cut and put logs in the river to
raft down when the ice went out. With them came a shingle
weaver, with a pony and a small sled, and some Indians also.
We now had to take up all of our steel traps, and rob all our
dead-falls and quit business generally—even then they
got some of our traps before we could get them gathered in. We
were now comparatively idle.
Until these loggers came we did not know exactly where we
were situated, but they told us we were on the Lemonai river,
a branch of the Wisconsin, and that we could get out by going
west till we found the Mississippi river and then home. We
hired the shengle man with his pony to take us to Black River,
farther north which we reached in three days, and found a saw
mill there in charge of a keeper. Up the river farther we
found another mill looked after by Sam Ferguson. Both mills
were frozen up. The Indians had been here all winter. They
come from Lake Superior when the swamps froze up there, to
hunt deer, till the weather gets warm, then they returned to
the Lake to fish.
Of course the presence of the Indians made game scarce, but
the mill men told us if we would go up farther into the marten
country they thought we would do well. We therefore made us a
hand sled, put some provisions and traps on board, and started
up the river on the ice. As we went the snow grew deeper and
we had to cut hemlock boughs for a bed on top of the snow. It
took about a half a cord of wood to last us all night, and it
was a trouble to cut holes in the ice to water, for it was
more than two feet thick. Our fire kindled on the snow, would
be two or three feet below on the ground, by morning. This
country was heavily timbered with cedar, or spruce and
apparently very level.
One day we saw two otters coming toward us on the ice. We
shot one, but as the other gun missed fire, the other one
escaped, for I could not overtake it in the woods. We kept on
up the river till we began to hear the Indians' guns, and then
we camped and did not fire a gun for two days, for we were
afraid we might be discovered and robbed, and we knew we could
not stay long after our grub was gone. All the game we could
catch was the marten or sable, which the Indians called
Waubusash. The males were snuff color and the female
much darker. Mink were scarce, and the beaver, living in the
river bank, could not be got at till the ice went out in the
spring.
We now began to make marten traps or dead-falls, and set
them for this small game. There were many cedar and tamarack
swamps, indeed that was the principal feature, but there were
some ridges a little higher where some small pines and beech
grew. Now our camp was one place where there was no large
timber caused by the stream being dammed by the beaver. Here
were some of the real Russian Balsam trees, the most beautiful
in shape I had ever seen. They were very dark green, the
boughs very thick, and the tree in shape like an inverted top.
Our lines of trips led for miles in every direction marked by
blazed trees. We made a trap of two poles, and chips which we
split from the trees. These were set in the snow and covered
with brush. We sometimes found a porcupine in the top of a
pine tree. The only signs of his presence were the chips he
made in gnawing the bark for food. They never came down to the
ground as we saw. They were about all the game that was good
to eat. I would kill one, skin it and drag the carcass after
me all day as I set traps, cutting off bits for bait, and
cooking the rest for ourselves to eat. We tried to eat the
marten but it was pretty musky and it was only by putting on
plenty of salt and pepper that we managed to eat them. We were
really forced to do it if we remained here. We secured a good
many of these little fellows which have about the the best fur
that is found in America.
We were here about three weeks, and our provisions giving
out and the ice becoming tender in the swamp were two pretty
strong reasons for our getting out, so we shouldered our packs
of fur and our guns and, getting our course from a
pocket-compass, we started out. As we pushed on we came to
some old windfalls that were troublesome to get through. The
dense timber seemed to be six feet deep, and we would
sometimes climb over and sometimes crawl under, the fallen
trees were so thickly mixed and tangled.
Mr. Buck got so completely tired that he threw away his
traps. We reached our starting place at O'Neil's saw-mill
after many days of the hardest work, and nearly starved, for
we had seen no game on our trip. We found our traps and furs
all safe here and as this stream was one of the tributaries of
the Mississippi, we decided to make us a boat and float down
toward that noted stream. We secured four good boards and
built the boat in which we started down the river setting
traps and moving at our leisure. We found plenty of fine
ducks, two bee trees, and caught some cat-fish with a hook and
line we got at the mill. We also caught some otter, and, on a
little branch of the river killed two bears, the skin of one
of them weighing five pounds. We met a keel boat being poled
up the river, and with the last cent of money we possessed
bought a little flour of them.
About the first of May we reached Prairie du Chien. Here we
were met with some surprise, for Mr. Brisbois said he had
heard we were killed or lost. He showed us through his
warehouses and pointed out to us the many bales of different
kinds of furs he had on hand. He told us we were the best fur
handlers he had seen, and paid us two hundred dollars in
American gold for what we had. We then stored our traps in the
garret of one of his warehouses, which was of stone, two
stories and an attic, as we thought of making another trip to
this country if all went well.
We now entered our skiff again and went on down the great
river till we came to a place nearly opposite Mineral Point,
when we gave our boat to a poor settler, and with guns and
bundles on our backs took a straight shoot for home on foot.
The second day about dark we came in the edge of the town and
were seen by a lot of boys who eyed us closely and with much
curiosity, for we were dressed in our trapping suits. They
followed us, and as we went along the crowd increased so that
when we got to Crum. Lloyd's tavern the door was full of boys'
heads looking at us as if we were a circus. Here we were
heartily welcomed, and every body was glad to see us, as they
were about to start a company to go in search of their
reported murdered friends. It seems a missionary got lost on
his way to Prairie La Crosse and had come across our deserted
cabin, and when he came in he reported us as no doubt
murdered.
I invested all of my hundred dollars in buying eighty acres
of good Government land. This was the first $100 I ever had
and I felt very proud to be a land owner. I felt a little more
like a man now than I had ever felt before, for the money was
hard earned and all mine.