We were very tired and sat down by the side of the house
and rested, wondering how we would come out with our
preparations. They were talking together, but we could not
understand a word. A dark woman came out and gave each of us a
piece of cooked squash. It seemed to have been roasted in the
ashes and was very sweet and good. These were all signs of
friendship and we were glad of the good feeling. We were given
a place to sleep in the house, in a store room on a floor
which was not soft. This was the second house we had slept in
since leaving Wisconsin, and it seemed rather pent-up to
us.
In the morning we were shown a kind of mill like a coffee
mill, and by putting in a handful of wheat from a pile and
giving the mill a few turns we were given to understand we
should grind some flour for ourselves. We went to work with a
will, but found it, hard, slow work.
After a little, our dark woman came and gave us each a
pancake and a piece of meat, also another piece of roasted
squash, for our breakfast, and this, we thought, was the best
meal we had ever eaten. The lady tried to talk to us but we
could not understand the words, and I could convey ideas to
her better by the sign language than any other way. She
pointed out the way from which we came and wanted to know how
many day's travel it might be away, and I answered by putting
my hand to my head and closing my eyes, which was repeated as
many times as there had been nights on our journey, at which
she was much surprised that the folks were so far away. She
then place her hand upon her breast and then held it up, to
ask how many women there were, and I answered her by holding
up three fingers, at which she shrugged her shoulders and
shook her head. Then pointing to a child by her side, four or
five years old, and in the same way asked how many children, I
answered by holding up four fingers, and she almost cried,
opening her mouth in great surprise, and turned away.
I said to Rogers that she was a kind, well meaning woman,
and that Mr. French had no doubt told her something of our
story. Aside from her dark complexion her features reminded me
of my mother, and at first sight of her I thought of the best
woman on earth my own far off mother, who little knew the
hardships we had endured. We went to work again at the mill
and after a while the woman came again and tried to talk and
to teach us some words of her own language. She place her
finger on me and said ombre and I took out my little
book and wrote down ombre as meaning man, and in the
same way she taught me that mujer, was woman;
trigo, wheat; frijoles, beans; carne,
meat; calazasa, pumpkin; caballo, horse;
vaca, cow; muchacho, boy, and several other
words in this way.
I got hold of many words thus to study, so that if I ever
came back I could talk a little and make myself understood as
to some of the common objects and things of necessary use.
Such friendly, human acts shown to us strangers, were
evidences of the kindest disposition. I shall never forget the
kindness of those original Californians. When in Walker's camp
and finding he was friendly to Mormonism we could claim that
we were also Mormons, but the good people though well known
Catholics, did not so much as mention the fact nor inquire
whether we favored that sect or not. We were human beings in
distress and we represented others who were worse even than
we, and those kind acts and great good will, were given freely
because we were fellow human beings.
The provisions we prepared were, a sack of small yellow
beans; a small sack of wheat, a quantity of good dried meat,
and some of the coarse, unbolted flour we had made at the
mills. They showed us how to properly pack the horse, which
was a kind of work we had not been use to, and we were soon
ready for a start. I took what money we had and put it on a
block, making signs for them to take what the things were
worth. They took $30, and we were quite surprised to get two
horses, provisions, pack-saddles and ropes, some of the latter
made of rawhide and some of hair, so cheaply, but we afterward
learned that the mares furnished were not considered of much
value, and we had really paid a good fair price for
everything. To make it easy for us they had also fixed our
knapsacks on the horses.
The good lady with the child, came out with four oranges
and pointed to her own child and then to the East, put them in
the pack meaning we should carry them to the children. With a
hearty good bye from them, and a polite lifting of our hats to
them we started on our return, down toward the gentle decline
of the creek bottom, and then up the valley, the way we came.
Toward night we came to a wagon road crossing the valley, and
as we well knew we could not go up the tangled creek bed with
horses we took this road to the north, which took a dry ravine
for its direction, and in which there was a pack trail, and
this the wagons were following. We kept on the trail for a few
miles, and overtook them in their camp, and camped with them
over night. We told them we considered our outfit entirely too
small for the purpose intended, which was to bring two women
and four children out of the desert, but that being the best
we could get, we were taking this help to them and hoped to
save their lives. Our mission became well known and one man
offered to sell us a poor little one-eyed mule, its back all
bare of covering from the effect of a great saddle sore that
had very recently healed. He had picked it up somewhere in
Arizona where it had been turned out to die, but it seemed the
beast had enough of the good Santa Ana stock in it to bring it
through and it had no notion of dying at the present time,
though it was scarcely more than a good fair skeleton, even
then. The beast became mine at the price of $15, and the
people expressed great sympathy with us and the dear friends
we were going to try to save.
Another man offered a little snow-white mare, as fat as
butter, for $15, which I paid, though it took the last cent of
money I had. This little beauty of a beast was broken to lead
at halter, but had not been broken in any other way. Rogers
said he would ride her where he could, and before she got to
the wagons she would be as gentle as a lamb. He got a bridle
and tried her at once, and then there was a scene of rearing,
jumping and kicking that would have made a good Buffalo Bill
circus in these days. No use, the man could not be thrown off,
and the crowd cheered and shouted to Rogers
to—"Hold her level."
After some bucking and backing on the part of the mare and
a good deal of whipping and kicking on the part of the man,
and a good many furious clashes in lively, but very awkward
ways, the little beast yielded the point, and carried her load
without further trouble.
The people gave us a good supper and breakfast, and one man
came and presented us with 25 pounds of unbolted wheat flour.
They were of great assistance to us in showing us how to pack
and sack our load, which was not heavy and could be easily
carried by our two animals which we had at first. However we
arranged a pack on the mule and this gave me a horse to ride
and a mule to lead, while Rogers rode his milk-white steed and
led the other horse. Thus we went along and following the
trail soon reached the summit from which we could see off to
the East a wonderful distance, probably 200 miles, of the dry
and barren desert of hill and desolate valley over which we
had come.
The trail bearing still to the north from this point, we
left and turned due east across the country, and soon came to
a beautiful lake of sweet fresh water situated well up toward
the top of the mountain. This lake is now called Elizabeth
Lake. Here we watered our animals and filled our canteens,
then steered a little south of east among the Cabbage trees,
aiming to strike the rain water hole where we had camped as we
came over. We reached the water hole about noon and here found
the Jayhawkers trail, which we took. They had evidently
followed us and passed down the same brushy cañon while
we having taken a circuitous route to the north, had gone
around there. Getting water here for ourselves and horses, we
went back to the trail and pushed on as fast as the animals
could walk, and as we now knew where we could get water, we
kept on till after dark, one of us walking to keep the trail,
and some time in the night reached the Willow corral I have
spoken of before. There was good water here, but the
Jayhawker's oxen had eaten all the grass that grew in the
little moist place around, and our animals were short of feed.
One of us agreed to stand guard the fore part of the night and
the other later, so that we might not be surprised by Indians
and lose our animals. I took the first watch and let the blaze
of the fire go out so as not to attract attention and as I sat
by the dull coals and hot ashes I fell asleep. Rogers happened
to wake and see the situation, and arose and waked me again
saying that we must be more careful or the Indians would get
our horses. You may be sure I kept awake the rest of my
watch.
Next day we passed the water holes at the place where we
had so stealthily crawled up to Doty's camp when coming out.
These holes held about two pails of water each, but no stream
run away from them. Our horses seemed to want water badly for
when they drank they put their head in up to their eyes and
drank ravenously.
Thirty miles from here to the next water, Doty had told us,
and night overtook us before we could reach it, so a dry camp
was made. Our horses began now to walk with drooping heads and
slow, tired steps, so we divided the load among them all and
walked ourselves. The water, when reached proved so salt the
horses would not drink it, and as Doty had told us the most
water was over the mountain ahead of us, we still followed
their trail which went up a very rocky cañon in which
it was hard work for the horses to travel. The horses were all
very gentle now and needed some urging to make them go.
Roger's fat horse no longer tried to unseat its rider or its
pack, but seemed to be the most downhearted of the train. The
little mule was the liveliest, sharpest witted animal of the
whole. She had probably traveled on the desert before and knew
better how to get along. She had learned to crop every spear
of grass she came to, and every bit of sage brush that offered
a green leaf was given a nip. She would sometimes leave the
trail and go out to one side to get a little bunch of dry
grass, and come back and take her place again as if she knew
her duty. The other animals never tried to do this. The mule
was evidently better versed in the art of getting a living
than the horses.
Above the rough bed of the cañon the bottom was
gravelly and narrow, and the walls on each side nearly
perpendicular. Our horses now poked slowly along and as we
passed the steep wall of the cañon the white animal
left the trail and walked with full force, head first, against
the solid rock. She seemed to be blind, and though we went
quickly to her and took off the load she carried, she had
stopped breathing by the time we had it done. Not knowing how
far it was to water, nor how soon some of our other horses
might fall, we did not tarry, but pushed on as well as we
could, finding no water. We reached the summit and turned down
a ravine, following the trail, and about dark came to the
water they had told us about, a faint running stream which
came out of a rocky ravine and sank almost immediately in the
dry sand. There was water enough for us, but no grass. It
seemed as if the horses were not strong enough to carry a
load, and as we wanted to get them through if possible, we
concluded to bury the wheat and get it on our return. We dug a
hole and lined it with fine sticks, then put in the little bag
and covered it with dry brush, and sand making the surface as
smooth as if it had never been touched, then made our bed on
it. The whole work was done after dark so the deposit could
not be seen by the red men and we thought we had done it
pretty carefully.
Next morning the little mule carried all the remaining
load, the horses bearing only their saddles, and seemed hardly
strong enough for that. There was now seven or eight miles of
clean loose sand to go over, across a little valley which came
to an end about ten miles north of us, and extended south to
the lake where we went for water on our outward journey and
found it red alkali. Near the Eastern edge of the valley we
turned aside to visit the grave of Mr. Isham, which they had
told us of. They had covered his remains with their hands as
best they could, piling up a little mound of sand over it. Our
next camp was to be on the summit of the range just before us,
and we passed the dead body of Mr. Fish, we had seen before,
and go on a little to a level sandy spot in the ravine just
large enough to sleep on. This whole range is a black mass
rocky piece of earth, so barren that not a spear of grass can
grow, and not a drop of water in any place. We tied our horses
to rocks and there they staid all night, for if turned loose
there was not a mouthful of food for them to get.
In the morning an important question was to be decided, and
that was whether we should continue to follow the Jayhawker's
trail which led far to the north to cross the mountain, which
stood before us, a mass of piled-up rocks so steep that it
seemed as if a dog could hardly climb it. Our wagons were
nearly due east from this point over the range, and not more
than fifty miles away, while to go around to the north was
fully a hundred miles, and would take us four or five days to
make. As we had already gone so long we expected to meet them
any day trying to get out, and if we went around we might miss
them. They might have all been killed by Indians or they might
have already gone. We had great fears on their account. If
they had gone north they might have perished in the snow.
The range was before us, and we must get to the other side
in some way. We could see the range for a hundred miles to the
north and along the base some lakes of water that must be
salt. To the south it got some lower, but very barren and
ending in black, dry buttes. The horses must have food and
water by night or we must leave them to die, and all things
considered it seemed to be the quickest way to camp to try and
get up a rough looking cañon which was nearly opposite
us on the other side. So we loaded the mule and made our way
down the rocky road to the ridge, and then left the
Jayhawker's trail, taking our course more south so as to get
around a salt lake which lay directly before us. On our way we
had to go close to a steep bluff, and cross a piece of ground
that looked like a well dried mortar bed, hard and smooth as
ice, and thus got around the head of a small stream of clear
water, salt as brine. We now went directly to the mouth of the
cañon we had decided to take, and traveled up its
gravelly bed. The horses now had to be urged along constantly
to keep them moving and they held their heads low down as they
crept along seemingly so discouraged that they would much
rather lie down and rest forever than take another step. We
knew they would do this soon in spite of all our urging, if we
could not get water for them. The cañon was rough
enough where we entered it, and a heavy up grade too, and this
grew more and more difficult as we advanced, and the rough
yellowish, rocky walls closed in nearer and nearer together as
we ascended.
A perpendicular wall, or rather rise, in the rocks was
approached, and there was a great difficulty to persuade the
horses to take exertion to get up and over the small
obstruction, but the little mule skipped over as nimbly as a
well-fed goat, and rather seemed to enjoy a little variety in
the proceedings. After some coaxing and urging the horses took
courage to try the extra step and succeeded all right, when we
all moved on again, over a path that grew more and more
narrow, more and more rocky under foot at every moment. We
wound around among and between the great rocks, and had not
advanced very far before another obstruction, that would have
been a fall of about three feet had water been flowing in the
cañon, opposed our way. A small pile of lone rocks
enabled the mule to go over all right, and she went on looking
for every spear of grass, and smelling eagerly for water, but
all our efforts were not enough to get the horses along
another foot. It was getting nearly night and every minute
without water seemed an age. We had to leave the horses and go
on. We had deemed them indispensable to us, or rather to the
extrication of the women and children, and yet the hope came
to us that the oxen might help some of them out as a last
resort. We were sure the wagons must be abandoned, and such a
thing as women riding on the backs of oxen we had never seen,
still it occurred to us as not impossible and although leaving
the horses here was like deciding to abandon all for the
feeble ones, we saw we must do it, and the new hope arose to
sustain us for farther effort. We removed the saddles and
placed them on a rock, and after a few moments hesitation,
moments in which were crowded torrents of wild ideas, and
desperate thoughts, that were enough to drive reason from its
throne, we left the poor animals to their fate and moved
along. Just as we were passing out of sight the poor creatures
neighed pitifully after us, and one who has never heard the
last despairing, pleading neigh of a horse left to die can
form no idea of its almost human appeal. We both burst into
tears, but it was no use, to try to save them we must run the
danger of sacrificing ourselves, and the little party we were
trying so hard to save.
We found the little mule stopped by a still higher
precipice or perpendicular rise of fully ten feet. Our hearts
sank within us and we said that we should return to our
friends as we went away, with our knapsacks on our backs, and
the hope grew very small. The little mule was nipping some
stray blades of grass and as we came in sight she looked
around to us and then up the steep rocks before her with such
a knowing, intelligent look of confidence, that it gave us new
courage. It was a strange wild place. The north wall of the
cañon leaned far over the channel, overhanging
considerably, while the south wall sloped back about the same,
making the wall nearly parallel, and like a huge crevice
descending into the mountain from above in a sloping
direction.
We decided to try to get the confident little mule over
this obstruction. Gathering all the loose rocks we could we
piled them up against the south wall, beginning some distance
below, putting up all those in the bed of the stream and
throwing down others from narrow shelves above we built a sort
of inclined plane along the walls gradually rising till we
were nearly as high as the crest of the fall. Here was a
narrow shelf scarcely four inches wide and a space of from
twelve to fifteen feet to cross to reach the level of the
crest. It was all I could do to cross this space, and there
was no foundation to enable us to widen it so as to make a
path for an animal. It was forlorn hope but we made the most
of it. We unpacked the mule and getting all our ropes
together, made a leading line of it. Then we loosened and
threw down all the projecting points of rocks we could above
the narrow shelf, and every piece that was likely to come
loose in the shelf itself. We fastened the leading line to her
and with one above and one below we thought we could help her
to keep her balance, and if she did not make a misstep on that
narrow way she might get over safely. Without a moments
hesitation the brave animal tried the pass. Carefully and
steadily she went along, selecting a place before putting down
a foot, and when she came to the narrow ledge leaned gently on
the rope, never making a sudden start or jump, but cautiously
as a cat moved slowly along. There was now no turning back for
her. She must cross this narrow place over which I had to
creep on hands and knees, or be dashed down fifty feet to a
certain death. When the worst place was reached she stopped
and hesitated, looking back as well as she could. I was ahead
with the rope, and I called encouragingly to her and talked to
her a little. Rogers wanted to get all ready and he said,
"holler" at her as loud as he could and frighten her
across, but I thought the best way to talk to her gently and
let her move steadily.
I tell you, friends, it was a trying moment. It seemed to
be weighed down with all the trails and hardships of many
months. It seemed to be the time when helpless women and
innocent children hung on the trembling balance between life
and death. Our own lives we could save by going back, and
sometimes it seemed as if we would perhaps save ourselves the
additional sorrow of finding them all dead to do so at once. I
was so nearly in despair that I could not help bursting in
tears, and I was not ashamed of the weakness. Finally Rogers
said, "Come Lewis" and I gently pulled the rope,
calling the little animal, to make a trial. She smelled all
around and looked over every inch of the strong ledge, then
took one careful step after another over the dangerous place.
Looking back I saw Rogers with a very large stone in his hand,
ready to "holler" and perhaps kill the poor beast if
she stopped. But she crept along trusting to the rope to
balance, till she was half way across, then another step or
two, when calculating the distance closely she made a spring
and landed on a smooth bit of sloping rock below, that led up
to the highest crest of the precipice, and safely climbed to
the top, safe and sound above the falls. The mule had no shoes
and it was wonderful how her little hoofs clung to the smooth
rock. We felt relieved. We would push on and carry food to the
people; we would get them through some way; there could be no
more hopeless moment than the one just past, and we would save
them all.
It was the work of a little while to transfer the load up
the precipice, and pack the mule again, when we proceeded.
Around behind some rocks only a little distance beyond this
place we found a small willow bush and enough good water for a
camp. This was a strange cañon. The sun never shown
down to the bottom in the fearful place where the little mule
climbed up, and the rocks had a peculiar yellow color. In
getting our provisions up the precipice, Rogers went below and
fastened the rope while I pulled them up. Rogers wished many
times we had the horses up safely where the mule was, but a
dog could hardly cross the narrow path and there was no hope.
Poor brutes, they had been faithful servants, and we felt
sorrowful enough at their terrible fate.
We had walked two days without water, and we were
wonderfully refreshed as we found it here. The way up this
cañon was very rough and the bed full of sharp broken
rocks in loose pieces which cut through the bottoms of our
moccasins and left us with bare feet upon the acute points and
edges. I took off one of my buckskin leggins, and gave it to
Rogers, and with the other one for myself we fixed the
moccasins with them as well as we could, which enabled us to
go ahead, but I think if our feet had been shod with steel
those sharp rocks would have cut through.
Starting early we made the summit about noon, and from here
we could see the place where we found a water hole and camped
the first night after we left the wagons. Down the steep
cañon we turned, the same one in which we had turned
back with the wagons, and over the sharp broken pieces of
volcanic rock that formed our only footing we hobbled along
with sore and tender feet. We had to watch for the smoothest
place for every step, and then moved only with the greatest
difficulty. The Indians could have caught us easily if they
had been around for we must keep our eyes on the ground
constantly and stop if we looked up and around. But we at last
got down and camped on some spot where we had set out
twenty-five days before to seek the settlements. Here was the
same little water hole in the sand plain, and the same strong
sulphur water which we had to drink the day we left. The mule
was turned loose dragging the same piece of rawhide she had
attached to her when we purchased her, and she ranged and
searched faithfully for food finding little except the very
scattering bunches of sage brush. She was industrious and
walked around rapidly picking here and there, but at dark came
into camp and lay down close to us to sleep.
There was no sign that any one had been here during our
absence, and if the people had gone to hunt a way out, they
must either have followed the Jayhawker's trail or some other
one. We were much afraid that they might have fallen victims
to the Indians. Remaining in camp so long it was quite likely
they had been discovered by them and it was quite likely they
had been murdered for the sake of the oxen and camp equipage.
It might be that we should find the hostiles waiting for us
when we reached the appointed camping place, and it was small
show for two against a party. Our mule and her load would be a
great capture for them. We talked a great deal and said a
great many things at that camp fire for we knew we were in
great danger, and we had many doubts about the safety of our
people, that would soon be decided, and whether for joy or
sorrow we could not tell.
From this place, as we walked along, we had a wagon road to
follow, in soft sand, but not a sign of a human footstep could
we see, as we marched toward this, the camp of the last hope.
We had the greatest fears the people had given up our return
and started out for themselves and that we should follow on,
only to find them dead or dying. My pen fails me as I try to
tell the feelings and thoughts of this trying hour. I can
never hope to do so, but if the reader can place himself in my
place, his imagination cannot form a picture that shall go
beyond reality.
We were some seven or eight miles along the road when I
stopped to fix my moccasin while Rogers went slowly along. The
little mule went on ahead of both of us, searching all around
for little bunches of dry grass, but always came back to the
trail again and gave us no trouble. When I had started up
again I saw Rogers ahead leaning on his gun and waiting for
me, apparently looking at something on the ground. As I came
near enough to speak I asked what he had found and he
said—"Here is Capt. Culverwell, dead." He did
not look much like a dead man. He lay upon his back with arms
extended wide, and his little canteen, made of two powder
flasks, lying by his side. This looked indeed as if some of
our saddest forebodings were coming true. How many more bodies
should we find? Or should we find the camp deserted, and never
find a trace of the former occupants.
We marched toward camp like two Indians, silent and alert,
looking out for dead bodies and live Indians, for really we
more expected to find the camp devastated by those rascals
than to find that it still contained our friends. To the east
we could plainly see what seemed to be a large salt lake with
a bed that looked as if of the finest, whitest sand, but
really a wonder of salt crystal. We put the dreary steps
steadily one forward of another, the little mule the only
unconcerned one of the party, ever looking for an odd blade of
grass, dried in the hot dry wind, but yet retaining
nourishment, which she preferred.
About noon we came in sight of the wagons, still a long way
off, but in the clear air we could make them out, and tell
what they were, without being able to see anything more. Half
a mile was the distance between us and the camp before we
could see very plainly, as they were in a little depression.
We could see the covers had been taken off, and this was an
ominous sort of circumstance to us, for we feared the
depredations of the Indians in retaliation for the capture of
their squashes. They had shot our oxen before we left and they
have slain them this time and the people too.
We surely left seven wagons. Now we could see only four and
nowhere the sign of an ox. They must have gone ahead with a
small train, and left these four standing, after dismantling
them.
No signs of life were anywhere about, and the thought of
our hard struggles between life and death to go out and
return, with the fruitless results that now seemed apparent
was almost more than human heart could bear. When should we
know their fate? When should we find their remains, and how
learn of their sad history if we ourselves should live to get
back again to settlements and life? If ever two men were
troubled, Rogers and I surely passed through the furnace.
We kept as low and as much out of sight as possible,
trusting very much to the little mule that was ahead, for we
felt sure she would detect danger in the air sooner than we,
and we watched her closely to see how she acted. She slowly
walked along looking out for food, and we followed a little
way behind, but still no decisive sign to settle the awful
suspense in which we lived and suffered. We became more and
more convinced that they had taken the trail of the
Jayhawkers, and we had missed them on the road, or they had
perished before reaching the place where we turned from their
trail.
One hundred yards now to the wagons and still no sign of
life, no positive sign of death, though we looked carefully
for both. We fear that perhaps there are Indians in ambush,
and with nervous irregular breathing we counsel what to do.
Finally Rogers suggested that he had two charges in his shot
gun and I seven in the Coll's rifle, and that I fire one of
mine and await results before we ventured any nearer, and if
there are any of the red devils there we can kill some of them
before they get to us. And now both closely watching the
wagons I fired the shot. Still as death and not a move for a
moment, and then as if by magic a man came out from under a
wagon and stood up looking all around, for he did not see us.
Then he threw up his arms high over his head and
shouted—"The boys have come. The boys have
come!" Then other bare heads appeared, and Mr. Bennett
and wife and Mr. Arcane came toward us as fast as ever they
could. The great suspense was over and our hearts were first
in our mouths, and then the blood all went away and left us
almost fainting as we stood and tried to step. Some were safe
perhaps all of those nearest us, and the dark shadow of death
that had hovered over us, and cast what seemed a pall upon
every thought and action, was lifted and fell away a heavy
oppression gone. Bennett and Arcane caught us in their arms
and embraced us with all their strength, and Mrs. Bennett when
she came fell down on her knees and clung to me like a maniac
in the great emotion that came to her, and not a word was
spoken. If they had been strong enough they would have carried
us to camp upon their shoulders. As it was they stopped two or
three times, and turned as if to speak, but there was too much
feeling for words, convulsive weeping would choke the
voice.
All were a little calmer soon, and Bennett soon found voice
to say:—"I know you have found some place, for you
have a mule," and Mrs. Bennett through her tears, looked
staringly at us as she could hardly believe our coming back
was a reality, and then exclaimed:—"Good boys! O,
you have saved us all! God bless you forever! Such boys should
never die!" It was some time before they could talk
without weeping. Hope almost died within them, and now when
the first bright ray came it almost turned reason from its
throne. A brighter happier look came to them than we had seen,
and then they plied us with questions the first of which
was:—"Where were you?"
We told them it must be 250 miles yet to any part of
California where we could live. Then came the
question;—"Can we take our wagons?" "You
will have to walk," was our answer, for no wagons could
go over that unbroken road that we had traveled. As rapidly
and carefully as we could we told them of our journey, and the
long distance between the water holes; that we had lost no
time and yet had been twenty six days on the road; that for a
long distance the country was about as dry and desolate as the
region we had crossed east of this camp. We told them of the
scarcity of grass, and all the reasons that had kept us so
long away from them.
We inquired after the others whom we had left in camp when
we went away, and we were told all they knew about them.
Hardly were we gone before they began to talk about the state
of affairs which existed. They said that as they had nothing
to live on but their oxen it would be certain death to wait
here and eat them up, and that it would be much better to move
on a little every day and get nearer and nearer the goal
before the food failed. Bennett told them they would know
surely about the way when the boys returned, and knowing the
road would know how to manage and what to expect and work for,
and could get out successfully. But the general opinion of all
but Mr. Bennett and Mr. Arcane and their families was, as
expressed by one of them:—"If those boys ever get
out of this cussed hole, they are d----d fools if they ever
come back to help anybody."
Some did not stay more than a week after we were gone, but
took their oxen and blankets and started on. They could not be
content to stay idly in camp with nothing to occupy their
minds or bodies. They could see that an ox when killed would
feed them only a few days, and that they could not live long
on them, and it stood them in hand to get nearer the western
shore as the less distance the more hope while the meat
lasted. Bennett implored them to stay as he was sure we would
come back, and if the most of them deserted him he would be
exposed to the danger of the Indians, with no hope of a
successful resistance against them.
But the most seemed to think that to stay was to die, and
it would be better to die trying to escape than to set idly
down to perish. These men seemed to think their first duty was
to save themselves, and if fortunate, help others afterward,
so they packed their oxen and left in separate parties, the
last some two weeks before. They said that Capt. Culverwell
went with the last party. I afterward learned that he could
not keep up with them and turned to go back to the wagons
again, and perished, stretched out upon the sand as we saw
him, dying all alone, with no one to transmit his last words
to family or friends. Not a morsel to eat, and the little
canteen by his side empty. A sad and lonely death indeed!
There was no end to the questions about the road we had to answer, for this was uppermost on their minds, and we tried to tell them and show them how we must get along on our return. We told them of the great snow mountains we had seen all to the north of our road, and how deep the snow appeared to be, and how far west it extended. We told them of the black and desolate ranges and buttes to the south, and of the great dry plains in the same direction. We told them of the Jayhawkers trail; of Fish's dead body; of the salt lake and slippery alkali water to which we walked, only to turn away in disappointment; of the little sheets of ice which saved our lives; of Doty's camp and what we knew of those gone before; of the discouraged ones who gave us their names to send back to friends; of the hawk and crow diet; of my lameness; of the final coming out into a beautiful valley, in the midst of fat cattle and green meadows, and the trouble to get the help arranged on account of not knowing the language to tell the people what we needed. They were deeply impressed that my lameness had been a blessing in disguise, or we would have gone on to the coast and consumed more time than we did in walking slowly to favor the cripple knee. Our sad adventures and loss of the horses in returning was sorrowfully told and we spoke of the provisions we had been able to bring on the little mule which had clambered over the rocks like a cat; that we had a little flour and beans, and some good dried meat with fat on it which we hoped would help to eke out the poorer fare and get them through at last. They were so full of compliments that we really began to think we had been brought into the world on purpose to assist some one, and the one who could forecast all things had directed us, and all our ways, so that we should save those people and bring them to a better part of God's footstool, where plenty might be enjoyed, and the sorrows of the desert forgotten. It was midnight before we could get them all satisfied with their knowledge of our experience.
Leaving Death Valley--The Manly Party on Foot After Leaving Their Wagons
LEAVING DEATH VALLEY—THE MANLY PARTY ON FOOT AFTER LEAVING THEIR WAGONS.
It was quite a treat to us to sleep again between good
blankets, arranged by a woman's hand, and it was much better
resting than the curled up, cramped position we had slept in
while away, with only the poor protection of the half blanket
for both of us, in nights that were pretty chilly.
We had plenty of water here, and there being no fear of the
mule going astray we turned her loose. As the party had seen
no Indians during our absence we did not concern ourselves
much about them. At breakfast we cautioned them about eating
too much bread, remembering, our own experience in that
way.
They said they had about given up our coming back a week
before, and had set about getting ready to try to move on
themselves. Bennett said he was satisfied that they never
could have got through alone after what we had told them of
the route and its dangers. He said he knew it now that not one
of them would have lived if they had undertaken the journey
alone without knowledge of the way.
They had taken off the covers of the wagons to make them
into houses for the oxen, so they could be used as pack
animals. The strong cloth had been cut into narrow strips and
well made into breast straps and breeching, for the cattle
were so poor and their hide so loose it was almost impossible
to keep anything on their backs. They had emptied the feathers
out of the beds to get the cloth to use, and had tried to do
everything that seemed best to do to get along without wagons.
The oxen came up for water, and the mule with them. They
looked better than when we left, but were still poor. They had
rested for some time and might feel able to go along willingly
for a few days at least. I was handy with the needle, and
helped them to complete the harness for the oxen, while
Bennett and John went to the lake to get a supply of salt to
take along, a most necessary article with our fresh meat. I
looked around a little at our surroundings, and could see the
snow still drifting over the peak of the snowy mountain as we
had seen it farther east, where we were ourselves under the
burning sun. This was now pretty near February first, or
midwinter. The eastern side of this great mountain was too
steep to be ascended, and no sign of a tree could be seen on
the whole eastern slope. The range of mountains on the east
side of this narrow valley were nearly all the volcanic,
barren in the extreme, and the roughest of all the mountains
we had ever seen. I had now looked pretty thoroughly, and
found it to be pretty nearly a hundred miles long, and this
was the only camp I had seen where water could be had.
When Mrs. Bennet was ready to show me what to do on the
cloth harness, we took a seat under the wagon, the only shady
place and began work. The great mountain, I have spoken of as
the snow mountain has since been known as Telescope Peak,
reported to be 11,000 feet high. It is in the range running
north and south and has no other peak so high. Mrs. Bennett
questioned me closely about the trip, and particularly if I
had left anything out which I did not want her to know. She
said she saw her chance to ride was very slim, and she spoke
particularly of the children, and that it was impossible for
them to walk. She said little Martha had been very sick since
we had been gone, and that for many days they had expected her
to die. They had no medicine to relieve her and the best they
could do was to select the best of the ox meat, and make a
little soup of it and feed her, they had watched her carefully
for many days and nights, expecting they would have to part
with her any time and bury her little body in the sands.
Sometimes it seemed as if her breath would stop, but they had
never failed in their attentions, and were at last rewarded by
seeing her improve slowly, and even to relish a little food,
so that if no relapse set in they had hopes to bring her
through. They brought the little one and showed her to me, and
she seemed so different from what she was when we went away.
Then she could run about camp climb out and in the wagons, and
move about so spry that she reminded one of a quail. Now she
was strangely misshapen. Her limbs had lost all the flesh and
seemed nothing but skin and bones, while her body had grown
corpulent and distended, and her face had a starved pinched
and suffering look, with no healthy color in it.
She told me of their sufferings while we were gone, and
said she often dreamed she saw us suffering fearfully for
water, and lack of food and could only picture to herself as
their own fate, that they must leave the children by the trail
side, dead, and one by one drop out themselves in the same
way. She said she dreamed often of her old home where bread
was plenty, and then to awake to find her husband and children
starving was a severe trial indeed, and the contrast terrible.
She was anxious to get me to express an opinion as to whether
I thought we could get the oxen down the falls where we had so
much trouble.
I talked to her as encouragingly as I could, but she did
not cheer up much and sobbed and wept over her work most all
the time. It was not possible to encourage her much, the
outlook seemed so dark. Mrs. Arcane sat under another wagon
and said nothing, but she probably heard all we had to say,
and did not look as if her hopes were any brighter. Bennett
and Rogers soon returned with a supply of salt and said the
whole shore of the lake was a winrow of it, that could be
shoveled up in enormous quantities.
We now in a counsel of the whole, talked over the matter,
and the way which seemed most promising. If we went by the
Jayhawkers trail, there was a week of solid travel to get over
the range and back south again as far as a point directly
opposite our camp, and this had taken us only three days to
come over as we had come. The only obstacle in the way was the
falls, and when we explained that there was some sand at the
bottom of them, Bennett said he thought we could get them over
without killing them, and that, as we knew exactly where the
water was, this was the best trail to take. Arcane was quite
of the same opinion, the saving of a week of hard and tiresome
travel being in each case the deciding reason. They then
explained to me what they had decided on doing if we had not
come back. They had selected two oxen for the women to ride
one to carry water and one to carry the four children. There
were no saddles but blankets enough to make a soft seat, and
they proposed to put a band or belt around the animals for
them to hold on by, and the blankets would be retained in
place by breast and breeching straps which we had made. They
had found out that it was very difficult to keep a load of any
kind upon an ox, and had devised all this harness to meet the
trouble.
Bennett had one old bridle ox called Old Crump, which had
been selected to carry the children, because he was slow and
steady. "How in the world do you expect it to keep the
children on?"—said I. "Well"— said
Bennett, with a sort of comical air, about the first relief
from the sad line of thought that had possessed us
all—"We have taken two strong hickory shirts,
turned the sleeves inside, sewed up the necks, then sewed the
two shirts together by the tail, and when these are placed on
the ox they will make two pockets for the youngest children,
and we think the two others will be able to cling to his back
with the help of a band around the body of the ox to which
they can cling to, with their hands." Now if Old Crump
went steady and did not kick up and scatter things, he thought
this plan would operate first rate. Now as to the mule they
proposed as we knew how to pack the animal, that we should use
her to pack our provisions so they would go safe.
From a piece of hide yet remaining John and I made
ourselves some new moccasins, and were all ready to try the
trip over our old trail for now the third time, and the last,
we hoped.
Mrs. Bennett and Mrs. Arcane had taken our advice, and in
cooking had not put too much of the flour or beans into the
soup for the children and they had gotten along nicely, and
even began to smile a little with satisfaction after a full
meal. They got along better than John and I did when we got
hold of the first nutritions after our arrival on the other
side.
We must leave everything here we can get along without. No
clothing except that on our backs. Only a camp kettle in which
to make soup, a tin cup for each one, and some knives and
spoons which each happen to have. Each one had some sort of a
canteen for water, which we must fill up at every opportunity,
and we decided to carry a shovel along, so we might bury the
body of Capt. Culverwell, and shovel up a pile of sand at the
falls to enable us to get the oxen over. Every ox had a cloth
halter on his head, so he might be led, or tied up at night
when we had a dry camp, and they would most assuredly wander
off if not secured. Old Crump was chosen to lead the train,
and Rogers was to lead him. We had made an extra halter for
this old fellow, and quite a long strip of bed ticking sewed
into a strap to lead him by.
This packing business was a new idea, and a hard matter to
get anything firmly fixed on their backs.
We had made shoulder straps, hip straps, breast straps and
breeching as the correct idea for a harness. The only way we
could fasten the band around the animals was for one to get on
each side and pull it as tight as possible then tie a knot, as
we had no buckles or ring in our harness.
The loads of the oxen consisted of blankets and bedding and
a small, light tent of their sheeting about four by six feet
in size. We rose early and worked hard till about the middle
of the forenoon getting all things ready. They had been in a
state of masterly inactivity so long in this one camp that
they were anxious to leave it now forever. Only in progress
was there hope, and this was our last and only chance. We must
succeed or perish. We loaded the animals from the wagons, and
some of the oxen seemed quite afraid at this new way of
carrying loads. Old Crump was pretty steady, and so was the
one with the two water kegs one on each side but the other
oxen did not seem to think they needed any blankets on these
warm days.
Mrs. Arcane was from a city, and had fondly conveyed thus
far some articles of finery, of considerable value and much
prized. She could not be persuaded to leave them here to deck
the red man's wife, and have her go flirting over the
mountains with, and as they had little weight she concluded
she would wear them and this perhaps would preserve them. So
she got out her best hat and trimmed it up with extra ribbon
leaving some with quite long ends to stream out behind. Arcane
brought up his ox Old Brigham, for he had been purchased at
Salt Lake and named in honor of the great Mormon Saint.
Mrs. Arcane also dressed her little boy Charlie up In his
best suit of clothes, for she thought they might as well wear
them out as to throw them away. She made one think of a fairy
in gay and flying apparel. In the same way all selected their
best and most serviceable garments, for it was not considered
prudent to carry any load, and poor clothes were good enough
to leave for Indians. We set it down as a principle that we
must save ourselves all we could, for it would be a close
contested struggle with us and death, at the very best, and we
wanted to get all the advantage for ourselves we could. As we
were making the preparations the women grew more hopeful, as
it seemed as if something was really going to be
accomplished.
Bennett and Arcane were emphatic in their belief and
expressions that we would succeed, "I know it—Don't
you Sally?" said Bennett very cheerfully, but after all
Mrs. Bennett could not answer quite as positively, but said
"I hope so."—Mrs. Bennett's maiden name was
Sarah Dilley, which I mention here as I may otherwise forget
it afterward. She realized that hers was no easy place to
ride, that they would have hard fare at best, and that it must
be nearly or quite a month before they could reach a fertile
spot on which to place her feet. One could easily see that the
future looked quite a little dark to her, on account of her
children, as a mother naturally would.
High overhead was the sun, and very warm indeed on that day
in the fore part of February 1850, when the two children were
put on Old Crump to see if he would let them ride. The two
small children were placed in the pockets on each side, face
outward, and they could stand or sit as they should choose.
George and Melissa were placed on top and given hold of the
strap that was to steady them in their place. I now led up
Mrs. Bennett's ox and Mr. Bennett helped his wife to mount the
animal, on whose back as soft a seat as possible had been
constructed. Mrs. Arcane in her ribbons was now helped to her
seat on the back of Old Brigham and she carefully adjusted
herself to position, and arranged her dress and ornaments to
suit, then took hold of the strap that served to hold on by as
there were no bridles on these two.
Rogers led the march with his ox; Bennett and I started the
others along, and Arcane followed with Old Crump and the
children. Bennett and Arcane took off their hats and bade the
old camp good bye. The whole procession moved, and we were
once more going toward our journey's end we hoped. The road
was sandy and soft, the grade practically level, and
everything went well for about four miles, when the pack on
one of the oxen near the lead got loose and and turned over to
one side, which he no sooner saw thus out of position, then he
tried to get away from it by moving sidewise. Not getting
clear of the objectionable load in this way he tried to kick
it off, and thus really got his foot in it, making matters
worse instead of better. Then he began a regular waltz and
bawled at the top of his voice in terror. Rogers tried to
catch him but his own animal was so frisky that he could not
hold him and do much else, and the spirit of fear soon began
to be communicated to the others and soon the whole train
seemed to be taken crazy.
They would jump up high and then come down, sticking their
fore feet as far as possible into the sand after which, with
elevated tails, and terrible plunges would kick and thrash and
run till the packs came off, when they stopped apparently
quite satisfied. Mrs. Bennett slipped off her ox as quick as
she could, grabbed her baby from the pocket on Old Crump, and
shouting to Melissa and George to jump, got her family into
safe position in pretty short order. Arcane took his Charley
from the other pocket and laid him on the ground, while he
devoted his own attention to the animals. Mrs. Arcane's ox
followed suit, and waltzed around in the sand, bawled at every
turn, fully as bad as any of the others, but Mrs. Arcane
proved to be a good rider, and hard to unseat, clinging
desperately to her strap as she was tossed up and down, and
whirled about at a rate enough to to make any one dizzy. Her
many fine ribbons flew out behind like the streamers from a
mast-head, and the many fancy fixin's she had donned fluttered
in the air in gayest mockery. Eventually she was thrown
however, but without the least injury to herself, but somewhat
disordered in raiment. When I saw Bennett he was standing half
bent over laughing in almost hysterical convulsion at the
entirely impromptu circus which had so suddenly performed an
act not on the program. Arcane was much pleased and laughed
heartily when he saw no one was hurt. We did not think the
cattle had so much life and so little sense as to waste their
energies so uselessly. The little mule stepped out one side
and looked on in amazement, with out disarranging any article
of her load.
Mrs. Bennett, carrying her baby and walking around to keep
out of the way, got very much exhausted, and sat down on the
sand, her face as red as if the blood were about to burst
through the skin, and perspiring freely. We carried a blanket
and spread down for her while we gathered in the scattered
baggage. Then the oxen were got together again, and submitted
to being loaded up again as quietly as if nothing had
happened. Myself and the women had to mend the harness
considerably, and Arcane and his ox went back for some water,
while Rogers and Bennett took the shovel and went ahead about
a mile to cover up the body of Capt. Culverwell, for some of
the party feared the cattle might be terrified at seeing it.
All this took so much time that we had to make a camp of it
right here.
We put the camp kettle on two stones, built a fire, put in
some beans and dried meat cut very fine, which cooked till
Arcane came with more water, which was added, and thickened
with a little of the unbolted flour, making a pretty good and
nutritious soup which we all enjoyed. We had to secure the
animals, for there was neither grass nor water for them, and
we thought they might not be in so good spirits another
day.
We had little trouble in packing up again in the morning,
and concluded to take a nearer route to the summit, so as to
more quickly reach the water holes where Rogers and I camped
on our first trip over the country. This would be a hard rocky
road on its course leading up a small rocky cañon, hard
on the feet of the oxen, so they had to be constantly urged
on, as they seemed very tender footed. They showed no
disposition to go on a spree again and so far as keeping the
loads on, behaved very well indeed. The women did not attempt
to ride but followed on, close after Old Crump and the
children who required almost constant attention, for in their
cramped position they made many cries and complaints. To think
of it, two children cramped up in narrow pockets, in which
they could not turn around, jolted and pitched around over the
rough road, made them objects of great suffering to themselves
and anxiety and labor on the part of the mothers.
Mrs. Bennett said she would carry her baby if she could,
but her own body was so heavy for her strength that she could
not do it. Bennett, Rogers and myself hurried the oxen all we
could, so that we could reach the water, and let Bennett go
back with some to meet the rest and refresh them for the end
of the day's march, and he could take poor little Martha from
the pocket and carry her in his arms, which would be a great
relief to her. Arcane also took his child when he met them,
throwing away his double barrel gun, saying:—"I
have no use for you."
When the women reached camp we had blankets already spread
down for them, on which they cast themselves, so tired as to
be nearly dead. They were so tired and discouraged they were
ready to die, for they felt they could not endure many days
like this.
We told them this was the first day and they were not used
to exercise therefore more easily tired than after they became
a little used to it. We told them not to be discouraged, for
we knew every water hole, and all the road over which we would
pilot them safely. They would not consent to try riding again,
after their circus experience, and Mrs. Arcane said her limbs
ached so much she did not think she could even go on the next
day. They had climbed over the rocks all day, and were lame
and sore, and truly thought they could not endure such another
day. The trail had been more like stairs than a road in its
steep ascent, and our camp was at a narrow pass in the range.
The sky was clear and cloudless, as it had been for so long
for thus far upon this route no rain had fallen, and only once
a little snow, that came to us like manna in the desert. For
many days we had been obliged to go without water both we and
our cattle, and over the route we had come we had not seen any
signs of a white man's presence older than our own. I have no
doubt we were the first to cross the valley in this location,
a visible sink hole in the desert.
The women did not recover sufficient energy to remove their
clothing, but slept as they were, and sat up and looked around
with uncombed hair in the morning, perfect pictures of
dejection. We let them rest as long as we could, for their
swollen eyes and stiffened joints told how sadly unprepared
they were to go forward at once. The sun came out early and
made it comfortable, while a cool and tonic breeze, came down
from the great snow mountain the very thing to brace them up
after a thorough rest.
The slope to the east was soon met by a high ridge and
between this and the main mountain was a gentle slope
scattered over with sage brush, and a few little stools of
bunch grass here and there between. This gave our oxen a
little food and by dipping out the water from the holes and
letting them fill up again we managed to get water for camp
use and to give the animals nearly all they wanted.
While waiting for the women Bennett and Arcane wanted to go
out and get a good view of the great snowy mountain I had told
them so much about. The best point of view was near our camp,
perhaps three or four hundred yards away, and I went with
them. This place where we now stood was lower than the
mountains either north or south, but were difficult to climb,
and gave a good view in almost every direction, and there, on
the back bone of the ridge we had a grand outlook, but some
parts of it brought back doleful recollections. They said they
had traveled in sight of that mountain for months and seen
many strange formations, but never one like this, as developed
from this point. It looked to be seventy-five miles to its
base, and to the north and west there was a succession of
snowy peaks that seemed to have no end. Bennett and Arcane
said they never before supposed America contained mountains so
grand with peaks that so nearly seemed to pierce the sky.
Nothing except a bird could ever cross such steep ranges as
that one.
West and south it seemed level, and low, dark and barren
buttes rose from the plain, but never high enough to carry
snow, even at this season of the year. I pointed out to them
the route we were to follow, noting the prominent points, and
it could be traced for fully one hundred and twenty-five miles
from the point on which we stood. This plain, with its barren
ranges and buttes is now known as the Mojave Desert. This part
of the view they seemed to study over, as if to fix every
point and water hole upon their memory. We turned to go to
camp, but no one looked back on the country we had come over
since we first made out the distant snow peak, now so near us,
on November 4th 1849. The only butte in this direction that
carried snow was the one where we captured the Indian and
where the squashes were found.
The range next east of us across the low valley was barren
to look upon as a naked, single rock. There were peaks of
various heights and colors, yellow, blue firery red and nearly
black. It looked as if it might sometime have been the center
of a mammoth furnace. I believe this range is known as the
Coffin's Mountains. It would be difficult to find earth enough
in the whole of it to cover a coffin.
Just as we were ready to leave and return to camp we took
off our hats, and then overlooking the scene of so much trial,
suffering and death spoke the thought uppermost
saying:—"Good bye Death Valley!" then
faced away and made our steps toward camp. Even after this in
speaking of this long and narrow valley over which we had
crossed into its nearly central part, and on the edge of which
the lone camp was made, for so many days, it was called Death
Valley.
Many accounts have been given to the world as to the origin
of the name and by whom it was thus designated but ours were
the first visible footsteps, and we the party which named it
the saddest and most dreadful name that came to us first from
its memories.