Loaded up again we start down the beautiful grassy valley,
the women each with a staff in hand, and everything is new and
strange to us. Rogers and I know that we will soon meet people
who are strangers to us; who speak a strange language of which
we know nothing, and how we, without a dollar, are to proceed
to get our food and things we need, are questions we cannot
answer nor devise any easy way to overcome. The mines are yet
five hundred miles away, and we know not of any work for us to
do nearer. Our lives have been given back to us, and now comes
the problem of how to sustain them manfully and independently
as soon as possible. If worse comes to worst we can walk to
San Francisco, probably kill enough game on the way and
possibly reach the gold mines at last, but the way was not
clear. We must trust much to luck and fortune and the ever
faithful Providence which rarely fails those who truly try to
help themselves.
We began to think some very independent thoughts. We had a
mule to carry our camp kettle and meat. Our cattle were now
beginning to improve and would soon get fat; these could carry
our blankets and odd loads, while Old Crump the christian
could still carry the children; Bennett and I knew how to
hunt, and had good rifles; so we could still proceed, and we
determined that, come what may, we will be
victorious.
These were some of the plans we talked over at our camps
and resting places, and as we walked along. If we could get
the two families fixed in some way so they could do without
Rogers and I, we could strike for the mines quite rapidly and
no doubt soon get ourselves on good footing. We were younger
than the rest and could endure more hardship. We decide to
remain together till we get to Los Angeles, and then see what
is best.
We reached our camping place at the foot of the hill, about
a hundred yards from the house we have so long striven to
reach. Here we unloaded in the shade of a large willow tree,
and scarcely had we removed the harness from the oxen when the
good lady of the house and her little child came down to see
us. She stood for a moment and looked around her and at the
two small children on the blankets, and we could hear her
murmur mucha pobre (very poor.) She could see our
ragged clothes and dirty faces and everything told her of our
extreme destitution. After seeing our oxen and mule which were
so poor she said to herself "flaco, flaco"
(so thin.) She then turned to us, Rogers and I, whom she had
seen before, and as her lively little youngster clung to her
dress, as if in fear of such queer looking people as we were,
she took an orange from her pocket and pointing to the
children of our party, wanted to know if we had given them the
four oranges she sent to them by us. We made signs that we had
done as she requested, when she smiled and said
"Buenos Muchuchos" (good boys.) In all this
talk neither could say a word the other could understand, and
the conversation was carried on by signs.
Arcane said to her—"Me Catholic" which she
seemed partly to comprehend and seemed more friendly. About
this time two men rode up and took a look at us. Arcane, who
was a mason, gave the masonic sign, as he told me afterward,
but neither of them recognized it. We used such words of
Spanish as I had taken down in my pass book and committed to
memory and by motions in addition to these made them
understand something of the state of affairs and that Mr.
French who had assisted us before had told us we could get
some meat (carne) from them. These men were finely
mounted, wore long leggins made of hide, dressed with the hair
on, which reached to their hips, stiff hats with a broad rim,
and great spurs at their heels. Each had a coil of braided
rawhide rope on the pommel of the saddle, and all these
arrangements together made a very dashing outfit.
They seemed to understand what we had said to them, for
they rode off with a rush and came back in a short time,
leading a fine, fat two-year-old heifer. When near our camp
the rider who was behind threw his riata and caught
both hind feet of the animal when by a sudden movement of the
horses the heifer was thrown. One of them dismounted, and at
the command the horse backed up and kept the rope tight while
the man went up to the prostrate beast and cut its throat. As
soon as it had ceased struggling, they loosened their ropes
and coiled them up: they came to us and pointed to the dead
heifer in a way which said—"Help
yourselves."
We were much gratified at the generosity of the people, and
at once dressed the animal as it lay, cutting off some good
fat pieces which we roasted over the fire and ate with a
relish. It seemed as if meat never tasted so good as that did
sweet, fragrant, and juicy. If some French cook could only
cook a steak that would smell and taste to his customers as
that meal tasted to us, his art would be perfect. We separated
a hind quarter and hung it to a tree, and when the lady came
back we told her that the piece we had selected was enough for
our present use, so she caused the remainder with the hide to
be taken to the house. Toward night they drove up a lot of
cows and calves and other cattle into their cattle yard or
corral, as it is called all over California, a stockade of
strong oak posts set deep in the ground and close together,
enclosing a space of about half an acre. The horsemen now rode
in and began to catch the calves with their ropes. It seemed
as if they were able to throw a rope over a calf's head or
around either leg they desired, with better aim, and at as
great a distance as one could shoot a Colt's revolver, and we
saw at once that a good raw-hide rope, in the hands of an
experienced man and well-trained horse, was a weapon in many
respects superior to firearms of any kind. A man near the gate
loosened the ropes and pushed the calves into a separate
corral till they had as many as they desired.
Rogers watched the circus till it was over and then
returned to camp, meeting on the way Bennett and Arcane, with
their wives and children, carrying some blankets, for the good
lady had invited them to come up to the house and sleep. They
said we could go down and keep camp if old dog Cuff was
willing, for they had left him guarding the property. He was
pleased enough to have us come and keep him company, and we
slept nicely, disturbed only a little by the barking of the
house dogs and the hooting of an owl that came to visit our
tree.
The people came back to camp in the morning and had their
experience to relate. Their hosts first baked some kind of
slapjacks and divided them among their guests; then gave them
beans seasoned hot with pepper: also great pieces of squash
cooked before the fire, which they said was delicious and
sweet—more than good. Then came a dish of dried meat
pounded fine, mixed with green peppers and well fried in beef
tallow. This seemed to be the favorite dish of the
proprietors, but was a little too hot for our people. They
called it chili cum carne—meat with
pepper—and we soon found this to be one of the best
dishes cooked by the Californians. The children were carefully
waited on and given special attention to by these good people,
and it was nearly ten o'clock before the feast was over: then
the household had evening worship by meeting in silence,
except a few set words repeated by some in turn, the ceremony
lasting half an hour or more. Then they came and wished them
buenos noches in the most polite manner and left them
to arrange their blankets on the floor and go to sleep.
The unaccustomed shelter of a roof and the restless
worrying of the children, who required much attention, for the
change of diet had about the same effect on them as on Rogers
and myself when we first partook of the California food, gave
them little sleep, but still they rested and were truly
grateful for the most perfect hospitality of these kind
hearted people.
In the morning the two horsemen and two Indians went to the
corral, when the riders would catch a cow with their ropes and
draw her head up to a post, binding it fast, while an Indian
took a short piece of rope and closely tied the hind legs
together above the gambrel joint, making the tail fast also.
They had a large bucket and several gourds. The Indians then
milked the cows they had made fast, getting from a pint to two
quarts from each one, milking into a gourd and pouring into
the bucket till they had all they desired. The calves were
separated the night before so they could secure some milk.
Cows were not trained to stand and be milked as they were at
home. Setting down the bucket of milk before us, with some
small gourds for dippers, we were invited to drink all we
wished. This was a regular banquet to us, for our famished
condition and good appetites made food relish wonderfully.
When we made a sign of wishing to pay them for their great
kindness they shook their heads and utterly refused. It was
genuine sympathy and hospitality on their part, and none of us
ever forgot it; the sight of a native Californian has always
brought out thoughts of these good people, and respect and
thankfulness to the race. This rancho, at which we were so
kindly entertained was called San Francisquito, or Little San
Francisco Rancho.
This morning Mr. Arcane, with our assistance, made an
arrangement with these people to give them his two oxen; and
they were to take him and his wife and child, to the
sea-shore, at a place called San Pedro, from which place he
hoped, in some way, to get passage to San Francisco in a
sailing vessel. He had no money, and no property to sell,
except perhaps his spy-glass, worth about ten dollars. With
this poor prospect before him he started for the sea. He bade
Bennett's folks good-bye, then came to me and put a light gold
ring on my finger, saying that it and his interest in the
little mule were mine. Then he gave his silver watch to Rogers
and said it was all he had to give him, but if he had a
million dollars, he would divide, and still think it a small
compensation for the faithful services we had rendered him.
"I can never repay you," said he, "for I owe
you a debt that is beyond compensation. You have saved our
lives, and have done it when you knew you could get nothing
for it. I hope we will meet again, and when we do you will be
welcome. If you hear of me anywhere, come and see me, for I
want to tell my friends who Manly and Rogers are, and how you
helped us. Good Bye!" There were tears in his eyes, voice
full of emotion, and the firm clasp of his hand told how
earnest he was, and that he felt more than he could speak.
He helped Mrs. Arcane on her horse, then gave Charlie to
her, and, amid waving hands and many adios from our
new-found friends, with repeated "good byes" from
the old ones, they rode away. Mrs. Arcane could hardly speak
when she bade us farewell, she was so much affected. They had
about sixty miles to ride to reach the sea, and as she rode on
a man's saddle, and was unused to riding, I knew she would be
sadly wearied before she reached the coast.
Our little train now seemed much smaller. Three oxen and a
mule were all our animals, and the adults must still walk, as
they had done on our desert route. But we were comparatively
happy, for we had plenty of good meat to eat, plenty of sweet
water to drink, and our animals were contented and improving
every day; grass and water seemed plenty everywhere. We put
our luggage on the oxen and the mule, loaded the children on
Old Crump as we had done before, and were ready to move again.
Our good friends stood around and smiled good-naturedly at our
queer arrangements, and we, not knowing how to say what our
hearts would prompt us to, shook their hands and said good bye
in answer to their "adios amigos" as we moved
away, waving hands to each other.
The men then detained me a little while to ask me more
about the road we had come over, how far it was, and how bad
the Indians were, and other particulars. I told him by signs
that we had been twenty-two days on the road, and that the
Indianos, as they called them, had not troubled us, but
that there was very little grass or water in all that land. He
made a sort of map on the ground and made me understand he
would like to go back and try to bring out the wagons we had
left behind, and he wanted me to go back with him and help
him. I explained to him by the map he had made, and one which
I made myself, that I considered it impossible to bring them
over. He seemed much disappointed, and with a shrug of his
shoulders said "mucho malo" (very bad) and
seemed to abandon the idea of getting a Yankee wagon. They
very much admired an American wagon, for their own vehicles
were rude affairs, as I shall bye-and-bye describe. We bade
each other many adios, and I went on my way, soon
catching up with the little party. We had been informed that
it was ten leagues, or thirty miles to Los Angeles, whither we
were now headed.
We had now been a whole year on the road between Wisconsin
and California, much of the time with the ground for a bed,
and though our meals had been sometimes scanty and long
between, very few of us had missed one on account of sickness.
Some, less strong than we, had lain down to perish, and had
been left behind, without coffin or grave; but we were here,
and so far had found food to nourish us in some degree with
prospects now of game in the future if nothing better offered.
We still talked of going to the gold mines on foot, for with
good food and rest our courage had returned, and we wanted to
succeed.
Our camp this night was in a nice watering place, where dry
oak wood was plenty and grass abundant. It was at the foot of
the San Fernando Mountain, not rocky, as we had found our road
some time before, but smooth and covered with grass. It was
rather steep to climb, but an infant compared with the great
mountains so rough and barren, we had climbed on our way from
Death Valley. Our present condition and state of mind was an
anomalous one. We were happy, encouraged, grateful and quite
contented in the plenty which surrounded us, and still there
was a sort of puzzling uncertainty as to our future, the way
to which seemed very obscure. In the past we had pushed on our
very best and a kind Providence had kept us. This we did now,
but still revolved the best plans and the most fortunate
possibilities in our minds. We talked of the time when we
should be able to show hospitality to our friends, and to
strangers who might need our open hand as we had needed the
favors which strangers had shown us in the last few days.
We ate our supper of good meat, with a dessert of good
beans our kind friends had given us, and enjoyed it greatly.
As we sat in silence a flock of the prettiest, most graceful
birds came marching along, and halted as if to get a better
view of our party. We admired them so much that we made not a
move, but waited, and they fearlessly walked on again. We
could see that there were two which were larger than the rest,
and from twelve to twenty smaller ones. The little top-knot on
the head and their symmetrical forms made them specially
attractive, and Mrs. Bennett and the children were much
pleased. The beauty of the California quail is especially
striking to one who sees them for the first time.
In the morning we began to climb the hill, getting along
very well indeed, for our raw-hide moccasins were now dry and
hard and fitted the foot perfectly. We did not try to make
great speed, but kept steadily on, and as we were used to
climbing, we reached the summit easily. From this elevation we
could get a fine view of the big grassy plain that seemed to
extend as far as the eye could reach and, not far from us, the
buildings and gardens of the San Fernando Mission. If we could
shut out the mountains the landscape would remind us of a
great Western prairie. We never could get over comparing this
country with the desolate Death Valley, for it seemed as if
such strange and striking opposites could hardly exist.
We rested here a little while and then wound our way down
the hill to the level land. A few miles brought us to the
mission houses and the church of San Fernando. There was not
much life about them, in fact they seemed comparatively
deserted, for we saw only one man and a few Indians. The man
brought some oranges and gave the children one each. After a
little rest we moved on over our road which was now quite
smooth and gently descending. Night overtook us in a place
where there was no water, but we camped and suffered no
inconvenience. A stream was passed next day, and a house near
by unoccupied. The road now began to enter gently rolling
hills covered with big grass and clover, which indicated rich
soil, and we never get tired of talking about it.
At the top of these hills we had another beautiful view as
far south and west as the eye could reach. Small objects,
probably horses and cattle, were scattered about the plain,
grazing in the midst of plenty. Our own animals were given
frequent opportunities to eat, and again and again we rejoiced
over the beauty. Of course it was not such a surprise and
wonder as it was when such a view first burst upon our sight,
but it pleased and delighted us ever. On the east was a
snow-capped peak, and here we were in the midst of green
fields of grass and wild flowers, in the softest climate of an
early spring. These strong contrasts beat anything we had ever
seen. Perhaps the contrast between the great snow mountain and
the hot Death Valley was greater in point of temperature, but
there the heat brought only barrenness, and of the two the
snow seemed the more cheerful. Here the vegetation of all
sorts was in full balance with the balmy air, and in
comparison the snow seemed a strange neighbor. It was quite a
contrast to our cold, windy March in Wisconsin, and we wonder
if it is always summer here. We were satisfied that even if we
could get no further we could live in such a land as this. The
broad prairie doubtless belonged to the United States, and we
could have our share and own a little piece of it on very easy
terms, and raise our own cattle and corn. If the people were
all as kind as those we had met we were sure at least of
neighborly treatment. I have endeavored to write this just as
it seemed to us then and not clothe the impressions with the
cover of later experience. The impressions we then daily
received and the sights we saw were stranger than the wildest
fiction, and if it so strikes you, my friendly reader, do not
wonder.
As we came over the hills we could see a village near the
southern base and it seemed quite near us. It was a new and
strange sight to us as we approached. The houses were only one
story high and seemed built of mud of a gray color, the roofs
flat, and the streets almost deserted. Occasionally a man
could be seen, sometimes a dog, and now and then an Indian,
sitting with his back to the house. The whole view indicated a
thinly populated place, and the entire absence of wagons or
animals was a rather strange circumstance to us. It occurred
to us at first that if all the emigrants were gone our
reception might be a cool one in this city of mud. One thing
was in its favor and that was its buildings were about fire
proof for they had earthen floors and flat roofs.
We rested half an hour or so just outside, and then
ventured down the hill into the street. We met an American
almost the first man, and when we asked about a suitable
camping place, he pointed out the way and we marched on. Our
strange appearance attracted the attention of the children and
they kept coming out of the houses to see the curious little
train with Old Crump carrying the children and our poor selves
following along, dirty and ragged. Mrs. Bennett's dress hardly
reached below her knees, and although her skirts were fringed
about the bottom it was of a kind that had not been adopted as
yet in general circle of either Spanish-American or good
United States society. The shortness of the dress made the
curious raw-hide moccasins only the more prominent, and the
whole make-up of the party was a curious sight.
We went down the hill a little further to the lower bottom
to camp, while the barefooted, bareheaded urchins followed
after to get a further look at the strangers. Before we
selected a suitable place, we saw two tents and some wagons
which looked like those of overland travelers, and we went
toward them. When within fifty yards two men suddenly came to
their feet and looked at our little party approaching as if in
wonder, but at twenty steps they recognized Bennett and came
rushing forward. "My God! It's Bennett" said they,
and they clasped hands in silence while one greeted Mrs.
Bennett warmly. The meeting was so unexpected they shed tears
and quietly led the way back to camp. This was the camp of
R.G. Moody and H.C. Skinner, with their families. They had
traveled together on the Platte and became well acquainted,
the warmest of friends, and knowing that Bennett had taken the
cut off, they more than suspected he and his party had been
lost, as no sight of them had come to their eyes. They had
been waiting here six weeks in order to get some reliable
news, and now Mr. Bennet answered for himself. Rogers and I,
belonging to another party, were of course strangers.
Leaving them to compare notes, Rogers and I took charge of
Old Crump, the oxen, and the mule, unpacked them, and arranged
camp under a monstrous willow tree. Bennett and his wife were
taken into Mr. Moody's tent, and an hour or so later when Mrs.
Bennett appeared again, she had her face washed clean, her
hair combed, and a new clean dress. It was the first time we
had found soap, and the improvement in her looks and feelings
was surprising. Bennett looked considerably cleaned up too,
and appeared bright and fresh. The children had also been
taken in hand and appeared in new clothes selected from the
wardrobe of the other children, and the old dirty clothes were
put in process of washing as soon as possible.
Supper came, and it was so inviting. There was real bread
and it looked so nice we smiled when it was offered to us.
Mrs. Bennett broke pieces for the children and cautioned them
not to eat too much. It did seem so good to be among friends
we could talk with and be understood. After supper was over
and the things cleared away we all sat down in a circle and
Bennett told the story of where he had been these many days on
the cut off that was to shorten the trail. Mr. Moody said he
had about given the party up and intended to start up the
coast to-morrow. The story was so long that they talked till
they were sleepy and then began again after breakfast, keeping
it up till they had a good outline of all our travels and
tribulations. This Mr. R.G. Moody, his wife and daughter, Mrs.
Quinby, and son Charles, all lived in San Jose and are now
dead. H.C. Skinner was a brother-in-law of Moody and also
lived a long time in San Jose, but himself, son and one
daughter, are now dead.
Rogers and I now took the pack-saddle we had borrowed of
Mr. French to use on our trip to Death Valley and return, and
carried it to the saloon on the east side of the plaza, where
we were to place it if we got back safely, and delivered it to
the man in charge, with many thanks to Mr. French for his
favors to us, and sent him word that we would always remember
him and be ready to do him a similar or equal favor if ever we
were able. We considered him a good benevolent man, and such
he proved to be when he offered us fat oxen, good beans, and
any other thing we needed. He told the people in the house who
we were, which no doubt influenced them kindly in our favor
when we arrived.
At the saloon there was a large room with tables in it and
gambling going on actively. Money changed hands very rapidly,
drinks at the bar were frequent, and the whole affair moved
forward with the same regularity as any mercantile business.
The door stood wide open and any one could come and go at his
pleasure. Quite a number of black-eyed, fair looking women
circulated among the crowd, and this, to us, seemed quite out
of place, for we had never seen women in saloons before. We
watched the game awhile to see some losing and some gaining,
the result being quite exciting; but as neither of us had any
money, we could not have joined in the game had we been so
disposed; so we looked on awhile and then took a seat on the
ground outside of the house.
Here we talked over our chances of getting to the mines.
All the clothes we had were on our backs and feet and those
were the poorest of the poor. We had no money. I had the
little black-eyed mule, and Rogers had the watch Arcane had
given him. Mr. Moody had said it was 500 miles to San
Francisco, and 150 miles further to the mines, so that after
the hard travel of a year we were still a long way off from
the place we started for.
We could not see any way to make a living here. There was
no land cultivated, not a fence, nothing to require labor of
any kind. The valley was rich enough and produced great crops
of grass, and the cattle and horses we had seen grazing seemed
to be about all the use they put it to. It looked as if the
people must live principally on meat. I thought if we could
manage to get a little provision together, such as flour and
beans, that I could pack there on the mule, and I was pretty
sure I could find game that would be better meat than we had
lived on during the last two months on the desert.
We looked around to see if we could find something to do to
earn a little for a start, but were not successful. In our
walk about this city of mud we saw many things that seemed
strange to us. There were more women than men, and more
children than grown-up people, while the dogs were plenty. At
the edge of the town, near the river were some grape vines
fenced in with living willows, interlaced in some places with
dry vines. The Indians moved very moderately around and no
doubt had plenty of beef to eat, with very few wants to
provide for. We noticed some few people paying for small
things at the stores with small money. The women all dressed
much alike. The dress was of some cheap material, sandals on
feet, and a kind of long shawl worn over the head and thrown
over the shoulder. There seemed to be neither hoops nor
corsets in their fashions. The men wore trousers of white
cotton or linen, with a calico shirt, sandals, and a broad
rimmed snuff colored hat. The Indians and their wives went
bareheaded.
Near the end of the street we came to a boarding house and
went in and sat down in the empty room. Soon a man came in,
better dressed than ourselves, and much to our surprise it was
one of the old Death Valley travelers, the Rev. J.W. Brier
whom I last saw in his lone camp in the desert, discoursing to
his young sons on the benefits of an early education. I know
the situation struck me very strangely, with death staring
them in the face and he preaching!
We had a long talk about the hard journey we had each
experienced. As his party had not waited they had come through
ahead of us. He said himself and Mr. Granger had started a
boarding house when they arrived, and had been doing a good
business. He said that as long as the emigrants continued to
come he could get along very well. We asked him if there was
any chance for us to work and get money to get some provisions
to help us on the way to the mines. He said he could give work
to one of us hauling water for the house with oxen and cart,
and the one who could manage oxen was the man. I was an ox
driver and so told him I would take his team and cart and set
out with the work. He said he could pay fifty dollars a month,
and I accepted the offer quickly as I saw it was a good chance
to build up my exhausted strength and flesh.
I turned the little mule out in the hills near by, and
began my work. It was not hard, for the boarders were thinning
out. The natives did not patronize this hotel very much, but
grub disappeared pretty fast at my corner of the table, for my
appetite began to be ravenous. There was not much variety to
the food and very few luxuries or delicacies, which were hard
to obtain on such a bare market, but all seemed satisfied with
the food, and to me it tasted extra good.
Rogers went back to the old camp and helped them there, and
I often went over after dark, when my work was done. Moody and
Skinner had been active in trying to get Mr. Bennett ready to
go up the coast with them. Bennett had sold his repeating
rifle and with the proceeds and the help of his friends had
got another ox, making two yoke for him. They fixed up a wagon
for him, and yokes enough could be found where people had
traded off their oxen for horses. Provisions enough had been
gathered by Moody and Skinner for them all, and Rogers would
go along with the party to help them with the teams.
I was left alone after they started, and it was my idea to
quit when I had worked a month, and if my mule staid with me,
to start for the mines even if I went alone. The majority of
the male inhabitants of this town had gone to the mines, and
this accounted for the unusual proportion of women. We learned
that they would return in November, and then the gambling
houses would start up in full blast, for these native
Californians seemed to have a great natural desire to indulge
in games of chance, and while playing their favorite game of
monte would lay down their last reale (12-1/2 cents) in the
hope of winning the money in sight before them on the
table.
As the boarding house business got dull I was taken over to
a vineyard and set to work, in place of hauling water. The
entire patch was as green as a meadow with weeds, and I was
expected to clean them out. I inquired of Brier how he came to
get hold of this nice property, and he said that during the
war the soldiers had taken possession of this piece of ground,
and had their camp here, so he considered it was government
land, and therefore had squatted on it and was going to hold
it, and pay for it as regular government land, and that he
already considered it his own, for said he, "I am an
American, and this is a part of the public domain."
"All right," said I, "I will kill weeds for
you, if you wish, when I have time to spare, and you don't
want the oxen worked at any other work ".
I could see every day that I was improving in health and
weight and would soon become myself again, able to take the
road to the mines. When about two weeks of my time had expired
two oldish men came to the house to stop for a few days and
reported themselves as from Sacramento, buying up some horses
for that market. Thus far they had purchased only six or
eight, as they had found the price too high to buy and then
drive so far to a market to sell again. They had about decided
to go back with what they had and undertake some other kind of
business. I thought this would be a pretty good chance for me
to go, as I would have company, and so went to Brier and
Granger and told them what I would like to do, and that with
their permission I would quit and go on with them. They
readily consented, for their money was coming in rather slow,
and they paid me twenty five dollars for half a month's work.
This made me feel pretty rich and I thought this would give me
food enough to reach the mines.
Having two or three days to get ready in, I began doing the
best I could. I found an old saddle tree which had been thrown
away, and managed to fix it up so I could use it. I also found
an old gun some traveler had left, and with a little work I
fitted the breech of that to my own gun which was broken, and
had been roughly tied together with strips of raw-hide. I now
had a good sound gun if it was not very handsome. I bought a
Spanish blanket, not so wide as ours, but coarse and strong,
and having a hole in the center through which to put the head
and wear it as a garment in case of storm, or at night. I went
to a native store and bought a supply of carné seca
(dried beef) and some crackers, put some salt in my pocket and
was now provisioned for another trip. I found my mule in the
hills back of town, not far from where I left her, and the
rest and good feed had made her look better and feel better,
as well as myself.
The drovers had found two other men who wanted to go with
them and help drive the horses for their board. I put my
blanket on under the saddle, packed my little sack of meat and
crackers on behind, and when I was in the saddle with my gun
before me I considered I was pretty well fixed and able to
make my way against almost anything. I said to myself that the
only way now to keep me from getting to the gold mines was to
kill me. I felt that there was not a mountain so high I could
not climb, and no desert so wide and dry that I could not
cross it. I had walked and starved and choked and lived
through it, and now I felt so strong and brave I could do it
again—any way to reach the gold mines and get some of
the "dust."
I had not much idea how the gold from the mines looked.
Everybody called it gold dust, and that conveyed an idea to me
that it was fine as flour, but how to catch it I did not know.
I knew other people found a way to get it, and I knew I could
learn if any body could. It was a great longing that came to
me to see some of the yellow dust in its native state, before
it had been through the mint.
At the last meal I took at the house there were only a few
at the table. Among them was a well dressed Californian who
evidently did not greatly fancy American cooking, but got
along very well till Mrs. Brier brought around the dessert, a
sort of duff. This the Californian tasted a few times and then
laid down his spoon saying it was no bueno, and some other
words I did not then understand, but afterward learned that
they meant "too much grease." The fellow left the
table not well pleased with what we generally consider the
best end of a Yankee dinner, the last plate.
While here I had slept in a small store room, where I made
my pallet out of old rags and blankets. While I was looking
round for material to make my bed I came across a bag partly
full of sugar, brought from Chili. It was in very coarse
crystals, some as large as corn. There were some other
treasures end luxuries there that perhaps I was expected
guard. I however had a sweet tooth and a handful or so of the
sweet crystals found their way into my pocket.
I bade Mr. Brier and the rest good bye and rode away to
join my company.
[Leaving the little party whose wanderings we have followed
so closely, safely arrived in Los Angeles, their further
history in California will be taken up later on, and this
narrative will go back to points when the original party was
broken up and trace the little bands in their varied
experience. It will be remembered that the author and his
friends, after a perilous voyage down Green River, halted at
the camp of the Indian chief, Walker, and there separated, the
Author and four companions striking for Salt Lake, while
McMahon and Field remained behind, fully determined to go on
down the river.
The story of these two men is told by McMahon in the
following interesting letter.]
Dear Manley:—
Yours requesting me to give you a synopsis of the history
of incidents, experience, and observations of our mutual
friend, Richard Field and myself, from the time you, John
Rogers, Alfred Walton, and the Hazelrig brothers left us at
the camp of the generous old chief Walker on the west bank of
the river near the mouth of the "great seven days
cañon" is at hand.
You no doubt distinctly, and with pleasure, remember that
unbroken friendship which existed among us up to the time of
our separation and that we parted warm and tried friends.
Well, after you and your companions had left us we set to
work to prepare the canvas for the continuation of the voyage
down the river. We drilled holes through the sides of the
"Pilot"—you, I have no doubt remember which
that was, yours and mine, in which we took so many fearful
risks, and "No. 2," so that we might in case of
necessity lash the two together. After a day or two Field lost
courage and finally determined to go no further down the
river. Walker in the meantime had repeated his friendly
warnings appertaining to the great danger in going further
down the river. You will remember what he had told us about it
before you left us.
You know that I was the biggest coward of the whole seven;
but I assumed courage and told Field that I would go down the
river alone; and, for a time, I thought I would do so; but
after some reflection I concluded that, perhaps, discretion
was the better part of valor, and reluctantly gave it up. We
now decided to follow you, or to take some other unknown route
and try to make our escape out of this most perilous
condition.
We then set about, as you had done, to trade with Walker
for a pony or two, and after much dickering Field succeeded in
getting the, afterwards famous, big, old, sore-backed mule.
You may not remember him, but I do; and, notwithstanding his
sore back, he made pretty good beef. I, with pins, needles,
thread, a pocket-knife, a handkerchief, etc., succeeded in
getting a very nice, round, three-year-old, iron-gray
pony.
After making pack-saddles, and getting almost ready to
start, we were, through Walker's kindness and persuasiveness,
overcome, and consented to go with him, feeling confident that
we would not starve to death while with him. We did not now
have Manley with his long experience, and his old rusty, but
always trusty, rifle as a sure defence against possible hunger
and starvation.
The old chief, and, in fact, the whole tribe, seemed
pleased when we consented to go with them. Preparations were
now made, and all except the horses and four head of cattle,
was conveyed across the river in the two canoes which were
lashed together, while the horses and cattle were forced to
swim to the other side where we camped for the night. Next
morning the clever old chief had two good horses fitted up in
good style for Field and I, which we rode all of the nine days
that we remained with the band, while our own run with the
herd. Our baggage was carried on some of the chief's
pack-horses. We were, in fact, his honored guests, as will
hereafter appear.
All were soon mounted and off to the buffalo fields, Walker
having informed us that he intended going up into the buffalo
country on the head-waters of Grand River where he would
remain until snow fell, when he would go to Salt Lake City, or
vicinity.
Leaving the river, we set out across a not entirely barren
plain, for there was much sage-brush, and several varieties of
cactus. Towards evening we came close up to the foot of a
range of rugged, rocky mountains, where we found water and
camped for the night. Field and I usually pitched our little
muslin tent somewhere near our friends where we could sleep
without fear of man or beast, for I think some one of the reds
was always on guard.
All went well for four or five days, when we all got
entirely out of food except a few ounces of flour which we had
hidden away for a possible emergency. During the following two
days and nights all were entirely without food except the two
little children, whom you no doubt remember. We gave their
mother a little flour now and then which she mixed with a
little milk which one of the cows afforded, for the little
ones. These Indians did not seem to suffer for want of food;
even when we were starving, they appeared happy and contented;
and one young fellow would sing all day long while we were
starving. Daring the second day of starvation and hard
traveling over hot and barren deserts, the Indians killed a
wild-cat and two small rabbits. We got nothing. You will
remember that all the arms of the seven men were lost in the
river when the canoes were sunk, except your rifle and my
double barreled shot-gun and revolver, so that Field and I had
only the one gun, and neither of us knew anything about
hunting. When we camped, one of the boys brought over to our
tent a quarter of the cat, which was more than a fair share of
the whole supply, as twenty-two of them had only the two
little rabbits and three quarters of the unfortunate cat. We
boiled and boiled and boiled that cat's hind leg, but never
got it done. We waited as long as we possibly could, gave up
in despair and put a little flour into the broth to thicken
it, and drank it. It was not good, but much better the meat of
the cat. That cat and the rabbits were all the twenty-four of
us had to eat, after fasting two days, until late in the
evening of the next day.
My people were religious, and when I was young the family
was wont to observe fast days, but never did we have any such
long fasts as these were. In the afternoon of the next day the
old chief left the caravan and went on ahead of the train
toward a chain of mountains, first giving some directions to
the band, and taking one son with him. When we arrived in a
small cañon in the edge of the mountains we found them
with a fine mountain sheep which they had killed and brought
down to the dim, little-used trail where we camped; and after
we had set up our little tent as usual, a short distance away
from our friends, one of the young men brought to us about one
fourth of the sheep, while the twenty-two Indians had the
rest.
You know that a good-sized mountain sheep would make a fair
supper for twenty-four people, even though they had been
starving three or four days; but this was a small one, and I
think Field and I ate about half of the quarter. The
twenty-two Indians soon devoured the three-fourths and all of
the soft viscera, including the stomach and intestines, after
which some of the boys came to our tent while we were stuffing
our, what had been for several days empty, stomachs. We
offered them part of our bounteous supply of mutton, having
much more than we could eat; but no, they would not touch it
until we were filled full, when they accepted what was left,
and soon stowed it away. All were now pretty well filled up
once more.
The next day was spent without food, traveling over rough
mountains. Within a pass, late in the afternoon, we crossed
the fresh trail of some other band of roving red-skins, and
Walker suspected who they were, and went into camp early. The
Indians had killed nothing that day, but I had killed a small
rabbit which, unfortunately for it, came in my way during the
day. This we offered to the women for themselves and the
little children; but they positively refused to accept it,
insisting that they did not want it or need it, and that the
small supply of milk from the cow was quite sufficient for the
little ones, and the others spurned the offer to divide so
little a thing, so we had it all to ourselves.
It appeared that these people were accustomed to go for
long periods without food, and with little apparent
inconvenience; but Field and I began to feel as I suppose Dr.
Tanner felt after a few days' fasting, and began to wish that
the old chief would get hungry and kill one of his large, fat
steers, but he still held them in reserve.
Early the next morning, now nine days from the time we had
left the river, the old chief took two of the young men and
left camp, as we afterwards learned, to go in search of the
Indians whose trail we had crossed the evening before. Some
time in the early part of the night, one of the young men
returned and informed us that they had found the wandering
tribe, and that we were to go back to their trail and follow
it to their camp up in a Southeast direction, Walker and one
of the young men having remained with their new-found
friends.
Field and I both felt greatly disappointed in not being
able to proceed north; and in the meantime we had become very
tired of the society of these people, notwithstanding the fact
that they were exceedingly clever; but we were almost starved
to death, and had about come to the conclusion that we would
be obliged to make some change. We were still on the east side
of, and considerable distance from the river, and probably not
more than one hundred, or one hundred and twenty miles from
the place where we parted from you.
The chief had sent particular instructions for us to go
with the tribe; but, after canvassing the whole situation, we
decided to part company with our good friends, proceed
northward, and try to reach Fort Bridger or some other
settlement in the northwest, and so informed them, and
requested the boys to bring in our mule and horse, which they
did after failing to induce us to go with them.
Bright and early the next morning, they all, even the
polygamous wives and little children, in apparent sorrow, bade
us good-bye, and were off, leaving us alone with our two poor,
lonely, four-footed companions, who were very anxious to
follow the band of horses. After the rather melancholy parting
we arranged our packs, and about ten o'clock started out on
what then seemed, and afterwards proved, to be a perilous
voyage through deserts, and over rough mountains. To avoid a
high range of mountains, our course was for a time northeast
but, after passing that range we bore to the northwest.
The days were quite warm, but the nights were cold. During
the first day we killed and ate one small rabbit, and this,
with a few seed buds gathered from wild rose bushes,
constituted two days' rations. On the third we did not have
even the rabbit or rose seed buds, but late in the afternoon
we found some small red berries, similar in appearance to what
I, in my childhood, knew and relished as Solomon's seal
berries. I being a natural coward, and fearing that they might
poison me, did not eat any of them, but generously allowed my
good friend to eat them all.
We had now been almost entirely without water for two days
and nights. When night came on we picketed our animals in a
grass plot and lay down near them to see that they did not get
tangled in the ropes and hurt, or that some red skin, not
having the fear of the Lord in his heart, did not come and
take them away. About ten o'clock my companion began to
complain of pain in his stomach and bowels, and was soon
vomiting at a fearful rate; so violently, indeed, that I was
apprehensive that he might die. If I had had an emetic I would
have given it to him to have assisted nature in pumping those
devilish little red berries out of him, for I felt quite sure
that they were the cause of his illness. Perhaps it was
fortunate that there was no medecine at hand, for if there had
been I might have killed him with it.
He suffered most intensely, and soon became very thirsty,
and, there being no water within many miles of us, he appealed
to me to bleed one of the animals and let him drink the blood;
I refused: he insisted; I again refused: he commanded; I still
refused. He swore, and called me almost everything except a
good Christian; he even expressed the wish that I, his friend,
might be sent to a certain place where the heat is most
intense, and the fire is never quenched.
At about eleven o'clock, when his pains were most severe, a
dark cloud, the first we had seen for months, came over us,
and a little rain began to fall, when I at once opened our
little camp kettle and turned the lid upside down, and into
both kettle and lid there fell perhaps two or three
teaspoonfuls of pure water, every drop of which I gave to the
sufferer, whereupon he expressed thanks for another God-send,
and at once apologized for bestowing unmerited abuse on me. He
afterwards often asserted that he believed that the little
rain-cloud was sent by God for his special benefit, and that
the water caught from that cloud was the sweetest and best
that he had ever tasted. I did not doubt the latter half of
the above statement, but I did have some doubt about the truth
of the former half when I called to mind the scene which
followed my refusal to bleed the horse. Whether the small
quantity of water gave him much relief, or not, I do not know,
but I do know that he soon became better and slept some while
I watched. He was quite feeble next morning when I put him on
the old sore-backed mule, where he rode most of the time for
the next four days, while the little horse carried our
baggage, and I led the way as usual, on foot.
For four days from the time Field ate the little red
berries we did not have a drop of water except the two or
three teaspoonfuls which the stingy cloud left to save the
life of the "berry-eater." We were still on the
desert, or in the mountains east of the river, traveling hard
during the day, and burning up with fever in the night. There
was plenty of drying grass in places, but our poor animals
could not eat it any longer, for they, too, were burning up
for want of water. Oh, how much I did wish that we had some
camels from Arabia, which could have gone so much longer
without water, and traveled so much faster.
On the morning of the third day of starvation, we
determined to change our course, and, if possible, reach the
river once more. Bearing to the left over a high, barren range
of rocky mountains, and down into a plain of sand, sage brush,
and cactus. During the afternoon I shot a small rabbit, not
much larger than a rat, which we carried until night, then
broiled and tried to eat it, not because our appetites craved
it, but hoping that it might strengthen and sustain us, at
least a little while longer. We were, however, so nearly
burned up that there was not a sufficient flow of saliva to
moisten the little bits of broiled meat in the mouth. Late
that afternoon we fancied that our fast failing brute
companions scented water, or that they instinctively knew that
it was not far away. They would raise their heads, and extend
their noses as if smelling, while their physical force and
energy seemed renewed, and they certainly traveled faster.
That night we ate the little, as before stated, more as a
duty than as a pleasure. There was some green grass round
about where we camped, or, more properly speaking, where we
lay, for we did not erect our little tent,—but the poor
starving animals did not eat a bite of it, but stood over us
as if in sympathy with us in our deplorable condition. We rose
before the sun, being somewhat rested and refreshed, for the
night had been cool, and took up our line of march, I, as
usual, in the lead, then came the old mule guided by its
precious owner, and lastly, the faithful little horse with the
pack on his still quite round back;—on over the still
dry and barren plain we went, without a Moses, cloud, or
pillar of fire to lead us.
About ten o'clock, through the hot glimmer of the
down-pouring rays of the sun, we saw what appeared, and
afterwards proved, to be a clump of cottonwood trees. Our
hopes and courage were renewed, for we well knew the
cottonwood usually grows near flowing water. There was no
beaten pathway, no signs of animal life, no quails, no manna
in that desert; but on we went, almost without a halt, and at
one o'clock reached the cottonwood grove, immediately on the
bank of the great river down which we had floated in our
canoes more than a month before. On reaching the bank of the
river we recognized objects which we had seen while on our way
down.
We remembered that both men and horses might be
water-foundered, and that self-preservation is said to be the
first law of nature; but it was difficult to prevent the
famishing brutes from plunging into the river. We allowed them
to take only a small quantity at first, and each of us took
only a small cupful; then after a little time all took more,
and the thirst was soon quenched. We were surprised to find
how little water it took to satisfy the raging thirst of four
days of continued fasting. The animals, after taking
comparatively small quantities, seemed satisfied, and went off
in search of grass.
We now had an abundance of water, but we well knew that
water alone would not sustain life very long: therefore our
next, and most serious business was to determine how to
prolong our lives. According to our map, our recollections of
different objects, and present appearances we were now a
little above the mouth of the Uinta river which comes in from
the northwest, all of which proved true. Our little map
pictured Fort Uinta on the Uinta river about one hundred miles
from where we were; but whether or not there were any human
beings there, we did not know, and in order to determine we
must cross this great river and travel a hundred miles, and
this seemed a perilous undertaking for us in our present
starving condition; but after being refreshed by plenty of
good water we determined to undertake it, hoping that good
fortune might attend us.
After a little rest, the animals with grass, we packed up,
and after Field had put on his, once serviceable, life
preserver he mounted the old mule behind the small pack and
started to swim across the river. He took the lead in this
instance for three reasons: first, we thought that the mule,
being much older than the horse, had probably had more
experience and therefore might be a much better swimmer; then
Field had the advantage in having the life preserver; but the
last, and most potent, reason was my fear of getting drowned.
It was understood that I was to remain on shore and be ready
to assist him if necessary, or until he had safely landed on
the other side.
In he went, and the trusty old mule was swimming
faithfully, and had reached the middle of the river, when
Field, as he afterwards told me, to hurry the mule, gave a
gentle jerk on the bridle, when, to his utter astonishment,
the mule made a complete somerset backwards plunging Field,
the pack, and himself entirely under the water, except his
heels which appeared above the water as his head went under.
In a moment Field popped up and, after shaking his head as a
swimmer will do after taking a plunge, cast about to take his
bearings, or to determine just where he was, and began to
paddle with his hands, much as he did when the canoes were
upset on the river, or somewhat after the style of a swimming
dog. On coming to the surface, the mule cast a glance at the
still living, but unloaded portion of his cargo, then made a
bee line for the shore which he had so recently left. While
Field continued to paddle and float down the river, I
dismounted and followed along the bank, trying to encourage
him to renewed efforts to float ashore. Finally he passed
behind a clump of willows out of sight; but soon I heard him
call for help and on going a little further down, found him
stuck fast in the mud. I waded waist deep into that mud, and
literally dragged him out, almost a mile below his starting
point.
As we were struggling in this muddy swamp, Field said he
wondered why some of this superfluous water was not
distributed over those dry deserts from which we had so
recently come. I told him, politely, that I thought that a man
of his age, ability, opportunities, and nationality, (you know
he was quite proud of being an Englishman) ought to know why
the moisture was not so distributed, and that I was too
illiterate to enlighten him on that point, but that, when
opportunity offered, he might consult some one who knew more
of natural science than I did. I informed him that I had an
idea that if any considerable portion of the water of that
river had been distributed over that desert that we would not
have had the experience of the last fifteen days, whereupon he
very plainly intimated that I did not have much sense, or, in
other words, he called me a d----d fool.
After reaching solid ground and resting for a little while,
we returned to the place from which he had started out on his
perilous voyage, and where I had hastily left my horse. We
found the horse and mule quietly grazing with their packs on
their backs. The faithful old mule had the appearance of
having been wet, but was now almost dry, yet not so dry,
internally, as he had been several days before.
What shall we do now? We are perhaps two hundred or more
miles from any white settlement. We do not know that Fort
Uinta is occupied. Shall we make another attempt to cross the
river? I asked my brave friend if he was willing to again
mount the mule and make another attempt, when he again
exclaimed, "You must be a d-----d fool!" I then,
pretending to have a little courage, asked him if he would
follow provided I would lead, whereupon he declared most
emphatically that under no conditions would he again attempt
to swim across that river. I had not had his experience, but
fear of being drowned was quite sufficient to prevent me from
undertaking the perilous task, more especially after
witnessing his failure.
Well, what next? We could not depend upon fishing and
hunting, for we had no fish-hooks, nor means of catching fish,
and not more than a dozen loads of shot, and a little powder;
so the matter of slaying one of our animal friends was now
seriously debated, and, after thoroughly canvassing the whole
situation, it was most reluctantly determined that, however
hard, this must be done. No doubt our starving condition at
that particular time had some weight in making this
decision.
Then the question was, which of the animals shall be
sacrificed? The mule was quite thin, and probably tough, while
the little horse was young, and, notwithstanding the many days
it had, with all of us, starved and traveled without water,
was still quite plump and round, and probably tender, or, at
the worst, not so tough as the poor old docile mule; so, at
length we decided to kill the innocent little creature, jerk
his flesh, pack it on the mule, and thereby try to save our
own lives, for a time at least, and endeavor to reach some
place of safety.
The matter of slaying the horse was determined by casting
lots, neither being willing to perform that melancholy, but
now absolutely necessary, act. It fell to my lot, and that was
one of, if not the most revolting act in my whole life's
experience, for I had, probably, become as strongly attached
to that little horse as man ever becomes attached to animal. I
most reluctantly took the bridle in my left hand, my revolver
in my right, stood directly in front of the poor,
unsuspecting, innocent creature with the murderous pistol
close to, and a little above a line extending from eye to eye,
and fired. When the smoke of the powder had cleared off a
little, I saw at my feet the quivering, dying body. I
staggered off a few steps and sat down, sick at heart.
Field walked several steps away, and turned his back upon
the scene until after the fatal shot had been fired; then,
after some little time, he entered upon his share of the
enforced duty, and, after having removed a portion of the
skin, cut off some slices of flesh and brought them to a fire
I had started. We broiled and ate a little of it, not through
desire or relish for it, but from a sense of duty, knowing
that our lives depended upon it.
It is said that for many years Dr. Franklin refrained from
eating flesh, having an idea that it was wrong to slay and eat
the flesh of other creatures; but that he changed his mind,
and his diet, too, after having seen large fish devour small
ones. I strongly suspect that if the doctor had been with us,
or in a like condition, even before his conversion, he would,
more than likely have taken a little flesh, even though it had
been a piece of his own favorite horse.
I said we only ate a little at first: I only ate a little
for two reason; first, I did not relish the food; second, I
had heard of persons being killed by eating too much after
fasting for a long time, and I had no desire to commit suicide
just then. Field ate too much. Night came on, work was
suspended, and we retired. The poor old lone, and, no doubt,
now lonely, mule, having filled himself with grass, came up
near the now terribly-mutilated remains of his late companion,
and looked on as Field continued his bloody work. Field, with
an expression of sorrow, said, "If that mule could reason
and look forward to the time when his body might be in a like
condition as that of this horse, he would, no doubt, take to
his heels, bid us a final farewell, and seek other
society." But, fortunately for us, he did not know that
he was to be held in reserve for our future security. He was
securely tied up every night from that time until the day he
was slain for our salvation.
Early in the night following that eventful day, my
companion began to complain much as he had done on the night
after he had eaten the little red berries; but there was no
lack of water now, no need of a special rain-cloud. I got up,
heated water in our little camp kettle, applied hot cloths to
his aching belly, and did everything else that either of us
could think of for his relief. The pain was intense, and we
feared that he would surely die, and earnestly prayed all the
rest of the night that he might be relieved, and get well.
Towards morning most violent vomiting came on, which continued
for thirty hours, or more. He was not able to walk for three
days, and during that time I nursed him, finished jerking the
meat, and built a raft of some partly rotten logs, which I
found in the vicinity, on which we floated across the river,
on the fourth day after our arrival here. I also looked to the
welfare of the mule, and prepared some bags in which to carry
our jerk. Manley, I am sure that you know the meaning of the
term "jerk" so that a definition of the word is not
at all necessary.
The old logs of which the raft was made were remnants of
log cabins, a number of which had been built and occupied more
than half a century before, but by whom I do not know. Field
remarked that the finding of these old rotting logs there was
another "God send," as we then had neither ax,
hammer, nor any tool of iron with which to cut down a tree. I
bound these logs together with long strips cut from the hide
of the dead horse. Paddles and poles were also provided. The
mule was with difficulty driven across the river.
When the raft was landed on the west bank, the mule packed,
and all about ready to start, I took the long strip of
raw-hide from the raft and tied one end of it around the
mule's neck, mounted Field on the mule behind the large pack,
which made the whole outfit look quite comical indeed. Before
leaving the other side of the river I had discovered that the
saddle girth was not very strong, so I cut a wide belt from
the hide of the lately slaughtered horse and fitted it to the
saddle as a girth, knowing that the pack, now containing all
of our goods and a supply of more than a bushel of jerk, would
be quite bulky, if not heavy, and more difficult to keep on
the back of a mule than it is for the camel to maintain his
hump on his back. This girth afterwards made us two or three
pretty substantial meals, as did also the long strip of green,
wet hide, one end of which I had tied round the mule's neck,
allowing it to drag for a long distance through the hot dry
sand.
All being ready, I, as usual, took the lead with my shot
gun, which I always carried, but with which I seldom killed
anything, on my shoulder. The old mule followed with his high,
towering pack, and Field almost hidden behind. It was noon,
but we did not stop for dinner, but simply reached into one of
the great bulging sacks, took out a piece of jerk and ate it
as we went marching on; no more trouble now about cooking.
Late in the afternoon we reached Uinta river, and, as my
two-legged companion had grown very tired of the back of the
four-legged one, we went into camp early. Our objective point
was Fort Uinta, where we hoped to find military. We could not
risk turning the mule loose at night, and the long strip of
raw-hide was designed and used to secure him, and yet to
afford him liberty to graze while we slept. As you will see a
little further on, both girth and lariat were used for a
purpose not anticipated.
The second, third, fourth, and fifth days came and went,
and we were trudging on, up the Uinta, through a mostly very
barren country, with some little rich and fertile land. We saw
signs of Indians often, but no Indians. There was much
cottonwood, but little other timber. We saw some fish in the
river which we coveted, but could not get. The main course of
this river is from north-west to south-east. We traveled most
of the way to the fort on Indian trails, some of which were
much worn, but mostly at some much earlier period. Of course
we had plenty of good water, and food, such as it was. Field
did not walk two miles during those five days, but seemed to
be fattening fast. I sometimes thought he might be just a
little lazy, but I never told him so, for I realized that he
had recently had a severe tussel with death.
Early in the morning of the sixth day we arrived at the
abandoned old fort. There were only three log buildings, and
they were in the shape of three sides of a hollow square, with
port-holes on the outer faces of the buildings, and doors
entering each of them from the hollow square or court. Facing
the vacant side of the court, the port-hole from which I shot
the wolf on the night after we had killed the mule, would be
on right hand side. We were unable to determine whether this
fort had been constructed and occupied by Americans or
Mexicans, but, from its apparent age, we were inclined to the
opinion that it was Mexicans. It had not been occupied for,
probably, three or four years. Some little farming had been
done immediately around the fort. Surrounding the fort is a
large body of fine, fertile land which I have no doubt has
long since been occupied by mormons, or other enterprising
people.
Having no means of subsistence here we soon decided to push
on towards Fort Bridger, and, after resting a few hours set
out following the larger fork of the river which comes almost
directly from the north. We now believed that we were almost,
if not exactly, due south of Fort Bridger. The river is small,
and very crooked; we crossed it many times within three days,
and, at the end of that time, found ourselves in the mouth of
a rocky cañon, and after struggling for one whole day,
we came to where the steep, high, stone walls closed the
little river in on both sides, rendering it impossible for us
to proceed any further.
We were now nearly out of food; the jerk was almost gone. A
council was held, and it was decided that we should return to
the fort and take chances of being rescued, or scalped by some
roving band of reds, or starving to death. We at once set out
on our return, full of disappointment and melancholy
forebodings.
The next day found us without food: and now came into use
the long, narrow strip of raw-hide which first bound together
the old, rotting logs of which the raft was made, then to
secure the mule of nights. It was now almost as hard as bone,
and nearly round, having been dragged through the hot sand
while it was yet green and wet, closed up like a hollow tube
with sand inside. Two or three yards of it at a time, was cut
into pieces about five inches long, the hair singed off, the
sand scratched out, and these pieces were dropped into our
camp kettle and cooked until the whole formed one mass of
jelly or gluten which was, to us, quite palatable. When the
lasso had all been thus prepared and eaten, the broad girth
which had served so well in holding the pack-saddle on the
mule's back, was cleaned, cooked, and eaten. These substitutes
for jerk sustained us very well till we again arrived at the
fort.
Another consultation was now held, and the question
was—what shall we do now? We were again, apparently, at
the starting point of another long, enforced fast. Our path
seemed hedged in. The prospect was, indeed, very gloomy. Our
only reasonable hope for even the temporary prolongation of
our lives was centered in our ever faithful, and always
reliable old mule. We revolted at the idea of killing and
eating him, but the last bit of the girth was gone. After
canvassing the whole situation over and over, again and again,
we finally, but most reluctantly decided to kill the mule, and
preserve all the soft parts, even the skin with all of its old
scars, and then gather in whatever else we could find, and
stay here until spring, or until good fortune might afford us
some means escape; till some Moses might come and lead us out
of this wilderness, notwithstanding the fact that we had not
borrowed any jewelry which we had failed to return.
There were signs of wolves in that vicinity, and it was
decided that the mule be slain about ten paces distant and
directly in front of one of the port-holes of the fort, with
the idea that wolves might smell the blood and come there and
subject themselves to being shot, and thereby afford us a
chance to increase our stock of winter supplies in the form of
wolf steak, or jerk. Accordingly the victim was lead to the
spot indicated, and there slain in the same manner, and with
quite as much reluctance on the part of the slayer, as on the
occasion of the sacrifice of the little horse, more than three
weeks before. The body was skinned, cut up, and all taken
within the building, nothing being left except the blood which
had been spilled on the ground, and which was intended to
attract wolves or, possibly, bears or other animals.
My now only living associate ridiculed the idea of killing
wolves, and insisted that the flesh could not be eaten,
stating the fact that even hogs would not eat the dead body of
a dog, and insisted that a dog was only a tamed wolf. I
reminded him of a cat which had been eaten. He finally agreed
that, if I killed a wolf, he would get up and dress it, but
said most emphatically that he would not sit up and watch for
it; so he went to bed, that is, rolled himself up in a blanket
on the ground in front of a good fire inside of the fort, and
went to sleep, while I sat with my rather untrustworthy double
barreled shot-gun protruding through the port-hole in full
view of the spot before indicated. The night was clear, and
the moon was shining in full splendor. It was probably eleven
o'clock; Field had been snoring for a long time, when I heard
something in the tall, dry grass, and soon a large,
brownish-gray wolf came into full view, with head up,
apparently sniffing, or smelling, and cautiously approaching
the fatal spot. When he reached it, and began to lick up the
blood which was still on the surface of the ground, standing
with his left side toward the fort, and in full view, I took
deliberate aim, and fired, and he fell upon the ground without
making any considerable noise.
The tired, sleeping man was aroused by the report of the
gun, and rushed into the room where I was in great excitement,
thinking, perhaps, that some enemy had appeared, and had just
then commenced to bombard the fort; but when I explained to
him that I had simply killed a wolf, he ran out towards it,
and, arriving close to it, the wounded creature rose up on its
hind feet and growled quite vigorously, which seemed to
frighten Field as much as did the noise of the gun. He dashed
back to the fort, and, after having time to recover from his
speechless condition, abused me most fearfully for having told
him that I had killed a wolf. I then went out and put a load
of shot into the wolf's head, and found that my first charge
had passed through and broke both of its fore legs near the
body. Field was so thoroughly frightened that I could not
induce him to approach the dead animal for some time, and I do
believe that that wolf haunted him as long as I knew him, for
he seemed never to forget it. After dressing it by the light
of the moon assisted by a torch, we retired. On viewing the
plump body next morning Field exclaimed, "That's another
God-send!" and notwithstanding his opinion that wolf
could not be eaten, he found that wolf to be the best food we
had eaten since we had assisted Walker and his tribe in eating
the mountain sheep.
The French may eat their horses, but I do not want more
horse flesh. The old mule made fair but quite coarse beef.
While out on this little pleasure(?) excursion we ate horse,
mule, wolf, wild-cat, mountain sheep, rose seed buds,
raw-hide, a squirrel, fatty matter from the sockets of the
mule's eyes and the marrow from his bones; but that ham of
wild-cat was certainly the most detestable thing that I ever
undertook to eat. The marrow from the mule's bones was a real
luxury.
We now had a pretty good stock of food, such as it was, but
not enough to carry us through the winter on full rations;
therefore we determined to try to add to it by hunting. One
was to go out and hunt while the other would remain at home:
we now had undisputed possession of the fort and it was our
home. Field took the first day's outing while I occupied my
time in drying and smoking meat. Late in the evening he
returned, tired and worn out, having seen nothing worth
shooting.
Next day came my turn to hunt. I took a lunch, as he had
done, consisting of jerked mule. I did not tell him so, but I
had determined to make an excursion up the river to a point
where we had seen some fresh trails and deer tracks some days
before. When I was putting up my lunch my friend intimated
that I was taking a very large amount for one lunch, but I
told him that I might stay out late and that I did not intend
to starve. I went, stayed all day, all night, and part of the
next day, and returned as he had done, tired and discouraged,
not having seen anything worth bringing in. In the evening of
the first day out I found a trail which appeared to have been
used daily by deer going to and from the river.