Mr. and Mrs. Brier had some pretty hard struggles to get
along, and everyone of this party has ever been loud in praise
of the energy and determination of the brave little woman of
the Brier mess. All agreed that she was by far the best man of
the party. She was the one who put the packs on the oxen in
the morning. She it was who took them off at night, built the
fires, cooked the food, helped the children, and did all sorts
of work when the father of the family was too tired, which was
almost all of the time. They all said that he, like other
ministers, had fallen out with any work but that of the
tongue, and seemed perfectly willing for some one else to do
the work. Mrs. Brier had the sympathy of everyone, and many
would have helped her if they could. She waited on her big
husband with untiring zeal, and still had time to care for the
children with all of a mother's love. It seemed almost
impossible that one little woman could do so much. It was
entirely to her untiring devotion that her husband and
children lived. Mr. Brier had but little sympathy or help from
any one but her. Some were quite sarcastic in their remarks
about the invalid preacher who never earned his bread by the
sweat of his brow, and by their actions showed that they did
not care very much whether he ever got through or not. They
thought he ought to have asserted his manliness and taken the
burden on himself, and not lean upon his delicate and trusting
wife as he seemed to do. All are sure that it is to his
faithful wife the Rev. J.W. Brier owed his succor from the
sands of that desert.
Looking back on the scenes of that day, the way the selfish
dispositions of people were made manifest is almost
incredible. Every one seemed to think only of saving his own
life, and every spark of human sympathy and kindness seemed
extinguished. A man would drink the last cup of water even if
his neighbor choked.
This camp was the same one which the Author mentions in his
narrative, to which Rogers and himself crept so silently and
carefully at night to ascertain whether the occupants were
friends or foes. They were much pleased to find it was Capt.
Doty of the Jayhawkers and his mess who had remained behind to
dry the flesh of an ox they had killed when it could travel no
longer. The others had gone on ahead, following the trail,
leaving these to follow. They staid here two days, and it was
while waiting here that the Rev. J.W. Brier came up as before
related, and they all went on together when they moved.
Nearly every man had carried a gun in the early days of the
expedition, hoping to kill game, and to be well armed in case
of attack by Indians or enemies, but they began to find that
they were useless encumbrances, and first one and then another
would throw away his fire-arms as a burden too great for a
weary man to bear. There was no game, and the poor weak men
hardly deemed their own lives worth defending against an enemy
when a day or two of lack of water would end the matter of
life at any rate.
As they slept they dreamed the most tantalizing dreams of
clear, rippling brooks of water; of wading knee deep in the
most beautiful of ponds; of hoisting the old moss-covered
bucket from some deep old well; of breaking and eating great
white loaves of bread; of surrounding the home table with its
load of steaming beans and bacon, fragrant coffee and
delicious fried cakes. With such dreams of comfort, they awoke
to realize more fully the terrors of their dry and swollen
throats, the discomfort of empty stomachs. Water and food were
the great riches of life to them then. Had piles of
twenty-dollars pieces been on the one hand and a bucket of
cold water on the other there is no doubt of the choice that
would have been made.
Seven or eight miles from this place were two branches to
the trail. One led into the mountains toward the snow, and the
other still bore southerly. They could see that some other
party who had no oxen to drive had taken the more northerly
route, which seemed to lead more directly in the direction of
the mines of California. Those who came later, with animals
thought it would be folly to try to cross the deep snow they
could see on the mountains before them and concluded that it
would be safer to the south of the snow line, braving the
danger of scarcity of water, rather than to perish in the
snow. Capt. Doty was willing to attempt the northern branch of
the trail if the others so decided, but the general feeling
was in favor of the more plain and open trail which led away
from the snows. It is known that this Northern branch led over
what is known as Walker's Pass, coming out at the Kern
River.
Taking then the southern branch, the party passed through a
range of low mountains, and then the country before them
seemed quite level for a hundred miles.
They expected they would find much difficulty on account of
water, as their experience had taught them that it was very
scarce in such locations, but this trail when they came to
follow it led them for eight or ten miles over a level piece
of high land that looked as if it might have slid down from
the high mountain at some day long past, and this easily
traveled road brought them at last to the top of a steep hill,
down which they went and found near the bottom, a small weak
stream of water, but no grass, and but little fuel of any
kind. (This was the same camp at which Rogers and the Author
overtook the advance party.) Here they killed an ox, which
made a good meal for all, and not much remained over, for many
had no oxen and were getting out of all sorts of provisions.
They depended much on the generosity of their fellow
travelers. Many of them stood back, and waited till those who
owned the food were satisfied, and were very grateful when
they were invited to take even the poorest morsels.
They could count the oxen and make a pretty close guess of
how many days they could live in this way, even with the best
probable fortune favoring them, and to the best of them there
was but little hope, and to those who were dependent it seemed
as if the fate of Fish and Ischam might be theirs almost any
day. When the Author conversed with them at this camp he found
them the first really heart-broken men he had ever seen. Some
were men of middle age who had left good farms that gave them
every need, and these they had left to seek a yellow phantom,
and now there were yellow phantoms of a different sort rearing
their dreadful forms all about them. They called themselves
foolish gold hunters to forsake a land of plenty for a chance
to leave their bones in a hot desert. More eyes than one
filled with tears, and hopes in more than one breast vanished
to almost nothing. More than one would gladly have placed
himself back where he could have been assured of the poorest
fare he ever saw upon his farm, for bread and water would have
been an assurance of life, of which there seemed to be really
but little expectation here.
When they left this camp in the cañon the trail was
between two high rocks, rising like walls on each side. In one
place they were so near together that an ox could hardly
squeeze through. In a very short time they came to a bunch of
willows growing out in the open ground. The little bunch or
grove was forty or fifty feet in diameter, and in the center
was a spring of water. The center of the clump had been
cleared out, making a sort of corral of bushes, enclosing the
spring. On the outside there was quite a little growth of
grass, which was a fortunate thing for their poor beasts.
Away in the distance, rising up a little against the
western sky they could see mountains with snow on them, and it
seemed as if it were a journey of five or six days to reach
them, but the good water and the grass bolstered up their
spirits wonderfully for there was present relief and rather
better prospects ahead. They were pretty sure that the wide
plain held no water. Everything that would hold the precious
drink was filled, and the best preparations made for what they
believed was to be the final struggle for life. They rested
one day and prepared for the very worst that might before
them. Early in the morning when they could see plainest, they
looked across the expanse before them and really it did not
seem quite so barren, hot and desolate as the region they had
passed, and they talked and hoped that this would be the last
desert they must cross and that Los Angeles lay just beyond
the sunny ridge they could dimly see ahead. There were some
tears that more than one would not live to answer roll call on
the other side, but it was the last hope, and worth an
earnest, active trial.
Early in the morning, much refreshed, they started on again
with rather sober faces. That night one man insisted on
sleeping with his clothes and boots all on, for he said if he
died he wanted to die in full dress. Another day and some
thought they could see trees on the mountains ahead of them,
and this renewed their courage greatly. In the middle of the
day they suffered greatly with the heat and the dry air seemed
to drink up every bit of moisture from everybody. When they
killed an ox they saved the blood and ate it. The intestines,
cleaned with the fingers, made food when roasted on the fire,
and pieces of hide, singed and roasted, helped to sustain
life. The water was nearly all gone. Only power of will and
strength of body had kept any. Capt. Asa Haines sat down one
day and said he could go no farther, but his comrade, L.D.
Stephens, who had kept a little rice, a little tea, and a dry
crust of bread for time of need, took a little water in a cup
and made some soup which he forced his friend to eat and soon
he revived and was able to move on again. That was true
friendship.
The next night Stevens himself awoke and seemed perishing
with thirst. He crawled over to Doty's bed and begged for just
one sup of water, Doty in the goodness of his heart, took his
canteen from under his head divided the last few drops with
him and the death which threatened him was held off. Capt.
Doty found it necessary to talk very seriously to those who
mourned and talked of failing. He never gave up in the least.
He encouraged all to make every step they could and know no
such word as fail. When they said that death would be easier
than life, he told them so, but that life was possible if they
only willed it, and a better life than had been theirs. And so
he kept them encouraged and kept them putting one foot before
the other, pointing out the ever lessening distance to the
mountain before them. He appealed to their manhood. "Be
men," said he, "Be brave and courageous, and you
have more strength than you believe." Thus by example and
words he proved to be a true captain to his little band.
Their water was all gone, every drop, and still the
foot-hills seemed far away. The supply of meat ran out. Tom
Shannon killed an ox, and when those who had cattle had taken
some, the others who had none were told to divide the rest.
There was no water to dress or cook it, but it helped to
sustain life. Entrails, bones, sinews, bits of hide and
everything was used. One man was seen with an ox horn, burning
the end in the fire and gnawing away at the softened portion.
It was something terrible to see human beings eating what the
dogs would cast aside. One man saw some moist looking earth on
the shady side of a bunch of brush and he dug down and got a
handful of it, from which he tried to suck the moisture. He
failed, and the bad taste of the earth made him suffer more
than before. Many bones of horses and cattle now appeared
along the trail. They seemed to have been there a long time,
and some were partly decayed. On this waterless stretch one of
their number, a Frenchman, wandered off, searching for water
in little hollows or puddles, and never came back to camp. He
was supposed to be dead, but ten years afterward some
surveyors found him in a Digger Indian camp.
An idea how selfish men will get under such circumstances
may be gained by relating that on one occasion when an ox was
killed the liver was carried to the brave little Mrs. Brier
for herself and children, and she laid it aside for a few
moments till she could attend to some other duties before
cooking it. Darkness coming on meanwhile, some unprincipled,
ungallant thief stole it, and only bits of offal and almost
uneatable pieces were left to sustain their lives. That any
one could steal the last morsel from a woman and her children
surpasses belief, but yet it was plain that there was at least
one man in the party who could do it. No one can fully
understand or describe such scenes as this unless he has
looked into just such hungry looking, haggard eyes and faces,
a mixture of determination and despair, the human expression
almost vanishing, and the face of a starving wolf or jackal
taking its place. There are no words to paint such a state of
things to him who has never seen and known.
But there were true men, true, charitable hearts in that
little band. Though death stared them in the face they never
forgot their fellow men. As they slowly crawled along many
would wander here and there beside the trail and fall behind,
especially the weaker ones, and many were the predictions that
such and such a one would never come up again, or reach the
camp. Then it was that these noble souls, tired almost beyond
recovery themselves, would take water and go back to seek the
wandering ones and give them drink and help them on. More than
one would thus have perished in the sands but for the little
canteen of water carried back by some friend. Only a swallow
or two would often revive their failing strength and courage,
and with slow step they would move on again. How much good a
crust of bread would have done such a poor creature. Bread
there was none—nothing but the flesh of their poor oxen,
wasted and consumed by days of travel and lack of food till it
had no goodness in it. Even the poor oxen, every night seemed
to be the end of their walking; every morning it was feared
that that would be the last time they would be able to rise
upon their feet.
Already five or six days had passed since they left the
camp at the willows where they had their last supply of water,
and still they were on the desert. The journey was longer than
they had expected, partly owing to the slow progress they had
made for there were frequent stops to rest or they could not
move at all. The mountains seemed nearer every day, and the
trees were outlined more plainly each morning as they started
out. Capt. Doty used every circumstance to encourage them. He
would remark upon the favorable signs of water in the hills
before them, and the hope that there might be some game to
provide better meat than that of starving oxen. Thus he
renewed their hope and kept alive their courage. He must have
had a great deal of fortitude to hide his own sad feelings,
for they must as surely have come to him as to any one, and to
keep up always an air of hope, courage, and determination to
succeed. If he had been a man of less spirit and good judgment
it is very probable that many more would have been left by the
wayside to die.
About this point the trail which had been growing fainter
and fainter, seemed to vanish entirely. One could move in
almost any direction to right or left as he chose, and because
of this, previous travel had doubtless scattered and thus left
no trail. It was thought best that this company should spread
out and approach the mountains in as broad a front as possible
so as to multiply the chances of finding water, and so they
started out in pairs, some to the right and some to the left,
each selecting the point where water seemed most probable.
Tom Shannon and a companion were one of these pairs. Tom
was one of the few who still stuck to his gun, for he felt
that it might save his life sometime. He and his companion
separated about a mile, each looking at all points that showed
the least sign of water. Suddenly a jack rabbit started from a
bush, the first game Shannon had seen for more than a month.
He pulled the rifle on him as he was making some big bound and
had the good luck to nearly split his head open. Rushing up to
his game he put his mouth to the wound and sucked the warm
blood as it flowed, for it was the first liquid he had seen;
but instead of allaying his fearful thirst it seemed to make
it worse and he seemed delirious. A little way up the gulch he
saw a rock and a green bush and steered for it, but found no
water. He sat down with his back to the rock, his rifle
leaning up near by, pulled his old worn hat over his eyes, and
suffered an agony of sickness. He realized that life was
leaving his body, and there he sat with no power to move and
no desire to make an effort. It seemed as if he could see
plain before him all the trail from where he sat, back over
all the deserts, mountains and rivers to the old place in
Illinois. He entirely forgot the present, and seemed
unconscious of everything but the pictures of the past. The
mind seemed growing freer from its attachment to the body and
at liberty to take in his whole past life, and bright scenes
that had gone before. How long he sat thus he knows not. His
companion was fortunate in finding water, and when he had
refreshed himself he set out to find poor Tom of whom he could
see nothing. Going toward where he heard the shot he followed
on till he saw him at the rock, almost doubled up, with his
face concealed by his hat. "O! Tom!" said he, but
there came no answering motion, and going nearer he called
again and still no answer and no sign. Poor Tom had surely
passed on to the better land, thought he, and salvation was so
near. He approached and lifted the hat rim. There was a
movement of the eyes, a quivering of the muscles of the face,
and a sort of semi-unconscious stare such as precedes
approaching dissolution.
Quickly holding back his head he poured water between his
lips from his canteen and it was swallowed. Then a little
more, and then some more, and life seemed coming back again
into a troublesome world, bringing pain with it, and the
consciousness of a suffering body. After a time he felt better
and was helped to his feet, and together they went to the
water hole where they made a fire and cooked the rabbit which
was the first savory meat they had tasted for a long time. Tom
felt better and told his companion how he felt after tasting
the warm rabbit's blood, and how he had nearly gone off into
the sleep of death.
"If you had been a little longer finding me,"
said Tom, "I should soon have been out of this sad
world." They fired a signal gun, looked down at the bones
of the rabbit, drank more water, and gradually felt new life
coming to them. The mountains seemed more fertile, and there
was brush and grass near by, timber farther up, and still
higher a cap of snow extending far along the range, both north
and south. Towards night on this eventful day the scattered
travelers began to come slowly into camp attracted by the guns
and the smoke of the fire made by those who first found the
water. Some were nearly as far gone as Tom Shannon was, and
great caution had to used in giving them water on their empty
stomach. One man named Robinson became so weak before he got
near camp that his companions placed him on the back of one of
the animals and a man walked on either side to catch him if he
fell off. When they got within a mile of the water he insisted
that he was strong enough to take care of himself and not be
watched every minute, and they relaxed their vigilance. He
soon fell off, and when they went to him he refused to be put
back on the animal again or to walk any farther. "Just
spread my blankets down," said he, "and I will lie
down and rest a little and after a while I will come along
into camp." So they left him and pushed on to water, and
when they were a little refreshed went back to him with water,
and to help him to come in, but when they came to him they
found him dead. He did not seem to have moved after he had
lain down. He did not seem so bad off as Shannon was when he
lay down, and probably a few swallows of water at that time
would have saved his life. It seemed sad indeed, after so much
suffering and striving to get along, that he should die within
a mile of water that would have saved his life. If he had
possessed a little more strength so that the spark of life
could have remained a little longer, the cooling moisture from
the canteen would have revived it, and a little rest would
have placed him on his feet again. They had no tools to dig a
grave, not even a knife for they had left every weight in
camp, so they covered him closely in his blankets and sadly
returned to their friends. They had all along hoped that the
Frenchman who had wandered away would come in, but he never
came. There were several water holes scattered around at this
point which seemed to be a sort of sunken place in the hills,
and quite large brush could be obtained for fire, and grass
for the oxen. Those who had been good hunters and had thrown
away their rifles as useless burdens, now began to look at
hills before them and think that game might be found in them,
as well as water. There were only one or two guns in the whole
party, They thought that this must surely be the edge of the
great desert they had crossed, and only the snow range before
them could be the obstacle that separated them from Los
Angeles.
One day from here would bring them to the edge of the snow,
and they debated as to the best course to pursue. Some of them
were fearful they could not cross the snow with the oxen, for
it seemed to be quite deep. The best place to cross seemed
directly west of them. South was a higher peak, and to the
north it was surely impassible. There seemed to be a faint
sign of a trail from this point towards the lowest point in
the snow mountains. There were some bones of cattle around the
springs which they thought was an indication that in years
gone by there had been some traveling on this trail. There
surely would be water in the snow which could be got by
melting it, and on the whole it seemed best to make the
attempt to cross at the lowest place. There were no signs of
travel except the trail which had not been used in years, not
signs of civilization except the bones.
Starting from the water holes which showed no signs of
having been used for several years, their next camp was, as
they had calculated, on the edge of the snow where they found
plenty of dry juniper trees for fire. and of course plenty of
water. Here they killed an ox and fed the hungry so that they
were pretty well refreshed. This was an elevated place and
they could look back over the trail across the desert for,
what seemed to them, a hundred miles, and the great dangers of
their journey were discussed. Said one of them to Tom
Shannon:—"Tom, you killed the first game we have
come across in two months. Even the buzzards and coyotes knew
better than to go out in into the country where the cursed
Mormon saint sent us numbskulls." Another said that while
they had been seeking a heaven on earth they had passed
through purgatory, or perhaps a worse place still nearer the
one from which sulphurous fumes arise, and now they hoped that
there might be a somewhat more heavenly place beyond the snow.
One who had been silent seemed awakened by inspiration and
spoke in impromptu lines somewhat as follows, as he pointed
out to the dim distance:—
Some even confessed the desperate thoughts that had come to
their minds when they were choking and starving. We have
mentioned four of the train who had perished beside the trail
and it will be remembered that one party of eleven started out
on foot before the wagons were abandoned by the rest of the
party. Nothing was heard of these for seven years, but long
afterward nine skeletons were found at the remains of a camp,
and the other two were afterward seen in the gold fields. When
spoken to about this party, they burst into tears and could
not talk of it. So it is known that at least thirteen men
perished in the country which has well been named Death
Valley.
People who have always been well fed, and have never
suffered from thirst till every drop of moisture seemed gone
from the body, so they dare not open their mouth lest they dry
up and cease to breathe, can never understand, nor is there
language to convey the horrors of such a situation. The story
of these parties may seem like fairy fables, but to those who
experienced it all, the strongest statements come far short of
the reality. No one could believe how some men, when they are
starving take on the wild aspect of savage beasts, and that
one could never feel safe in their presence. Some proved true
and kind and charitable even with death staring them in the
face, and never forgot their fellow men. Some that seemed
weakest proved strongest in the final struggle for
existence.
Early next morning before the sun rose they started to
cross the snow, leaving their comrade Robinson behind, rolled
up in his blankets, taking his everlasting sleep so far as the
troubles of this world are concerned. What the day would bring
forth very few could have any idea. Go on they must, and this
direction seemed most promising. If the snow should prove hard
enough to hold up the oxen they could probably cross before
night, but if compelled to camp in the snow it was a doubtful
case for them.
The snow held them as they advanced on it, but grew a
little softer as the sun got higher. The tracks of both men
and animals were stained with blood from their worn-out feet.
When they turned the summit they found more timber and the
ravine they followed was so shaded that the force of the sun
was broken, and they really did not suffer very much from
slumping through the snow, and so got safely over. Not far
below the snow they found a running brook of clear, sweet
water, with willows along the banks and trees on the hills,
the first really good water for a month or two. This is the
same camp where Rogers and his companion ate their meal of
quail, hawk and crow a few days before, and these travelers
knew by the remains of the little camp fire that they were
following on the trail of the two men who had gone before.
This place was so great an improvement on the camps of the
past that all hands began to talk and act more rational as
hope dawned more brightly on them. Those who had guns branched
off to search for game, but found they were too weak for that
kind of work, and had to sit down very often to rest. When
they tried to run they stumbled down and made very poor
progress.
Capt. Doty, Tom Shannon and Bill Rude sat down to rest on a
bold point above the creek. While there three wild horses came
along within easy range, and thinking they would form better
meat than the oxen each man picked his animal and all fired
simultaneously, bringing them all to the ground. This seemed a
piece of glorious luck, and all rushed in like wolves lifter a
wounded animal. It was not very long before each had a chunk
of meat in his hand, and many a one did not stop from eating
because it was not cooked. Such declared they never ate
anything so delicious in all their lives before, and wondered
why horses were not used as food instead of hogs and cattle.
As they satisfied their ravenous appetites they ate more like
beasts than like men, so nearly were they starved, and so
nearly had their starving condition made them fall from their
lofty estate.
As they passed on down this cañon they found it very
brushy and on the dry leaves under the wide-spreading trees
they saw signs of bear and perhaps other animals. There were
some swampy places where it was grassy, and into these the
cattle rushed with great eagerness for the food they had so
long suffered for. Some of Mr. Brier's cattle went in, and in
tramping around for food sank deep into the mud and could not
be coaxed out again. Mrs. Brier threw clubs at them but they
did not seem inclined to pay much attention to her attacks so
she was forced to go in after them herself, and in so doing
also sank into the mud and could not get out without
assistance. All this time her reverend husband sat outside on
the hard ground at a safe distance, but did not offer any
help. Probably if an extended and learned lecture on the
effects of gravitation would have done any good he would have
been ready with prompt and extended service to one whom he had
promised to love and cherish.
About this time L.D. Stevens came along and seeing the
condition of the unfortunate woman, at once went to her
assistance and helped her to dry land. Brier himself never
made a move nor said a word. Stevens looked terribly cross at
him and remarked to his companions that if the preacher
himself had been the one stuck in the mud he would have been
quite inclined to leave him there for all of helping him.
The cañon grew narrow as they descended, and the
brush thicker, so that to follow the bed of the stream was the
only way to get along. The cattle seemed to scent a bear and
stampeded in terror through the brush in various directions,
all except one which was being led by a rope. They tried to
follow the animals in a desperate effort to recover them and a
few blankets they had upon their backs, but could only make
slow progress. Tom Shannon and two others found a fresh bear
track and determined to follow it awhile in the hope of having
revenge on the cause of their mishap with the oxen. They took
their blankets and kept the trail till night when they camped,
but were at so great an elevation that a snowstorm came with
six inches of snow so they could no longer follow the
track.
They were very hungry and on the way back came across some
wild cherries which had dried perfectly dry as they hung on
the bushes. These they picked and ate, cracking the seeds with
their teeth, and declaring them to be the best of fruit. Good
appetites made almost anything taste good then. They got back
to the creek next day pretty nearly starved, and with neither
a bear nor runaway oxen to reward them for their two days'
hard work.
Wood and water were plenty, but grass was scarce and their
ox had to live on brush and leaves, but this was infinitely
better than the stunted and bitter shrubs of the desert. They
came out of the brush at last into the open bottom land where
the brook sank out of sight in the sand, and sage brush
appeared all about. From this on, over the elevated point
which projected out nearly across the valley, their experience
and emotions in coming in sight of vast herds of cattle
feeding on rolling grassy hills, or reclining under great oak
trees scattered over the more level lands, were much the same
as came to the Author and his party when the same scene was
suddenly opened to them. Signs of civilization and of plenty
so suddenly appearing after so many weeks of suffering and
desolation was almost enough to turn their heads, and more
than one of the stout-hearted pioneers shed tears of joy. Only
a few days before and they could scarcely have believed it
possible to find a spot so lovely.
But to hungry, more than half starved men, points of
artistic beauty and sober reflections over the terrors of the
past found little place, and their first thought was to
satisfy the cravings of hunger which were assuredly none the
less when they beheld the numerous fat cattle all around them.
There was no one to ask or to buy from and to kill and eat
without permission might be wrong and might get them into
difficulty, but one might as well ask a starving wolf to get
permission to slay and eat when a fat lamb came across his
path as to expect these men to take very much time to hunt up
owners. When life or death are the questions that present
themselves men are not so apt to discuss the right or wrong of
any matter.
Tom Shannon and a couple of others did not wait long at any
rate, but crawled down the creek bed till they were opposite a
few fine animals and then crept up the bank very near to them.
Two or three shots rang out and as many fine cattle were
brought down. The live cattle ran away and the hungry men soon
had the field to themselves. Much quicker than can be told the
men had fat pieces of meat in their hands which they devoured
without cooking. The men acted like crazy creatures at a
barbacue—each one cut for himself with very little
respect for anyone. The boldest got in first and the more
retiring came in later, but all had enough and gradually
resumed more human actions and appearance.
They had hardly finished their bloody feast when they saw a
small squad of men on horseback advancing toward them, and as
they came near it was quite plain that they were all armed in
some way. All had lassoes at their saddles, some had
old-fashioned blunderbusses, and nearly every one had a
macheta or long bladed Spanish knife. As the horsemen
drew near they formed into something like military order and
advanced slowly and carefully. It was pretty evident they
thought they were about to encounter a band of thieving
Indians, but as they came closer they recognized the strangers
as Americans and passed the compliments with them in a rather
friendly manner.
Some of the Jayhawkers had been in the Mexican War and
understood a few words of Spanish, and by a liberal use of
signs were able to communicate with the armed party and tell
them who they were, where they were going, and the unfortunate
condition in which they found themselves. The men did not seem
angry at losing so few of their cattle, and doubtless
considered themselves fortunate in not suffering to the extent
of some hundreds as they did sometimes by Indian raids, and
invited the whole party down to the ranch house of the San
Francisquito Rancho of which this was a part. Arrived at the
house the ranch men brought in a good fat steer which they
killed and told the poor Americans to help themselves and be
welcome. This was on the fourth day of February, 1850.
The whole party remained here to rest themselves and their
oxen for several days, and were royally entertained by the
people at the ranch. They talked over the plans for the
future, and considered the best course to pursue. They thought
it would be wise to keep their oxen for these would now
improve in flesh, and as they had no money with which to buy
food they might still rely on them in further travels. The
best oxen had survived, for the failing ones were selected to
be killed when they were forced to have food. The weaker of
their comrades had perished in the desert, and the remainder
of the train consisted of the strongest men and the strongest
oxen, and there seemed to be no question but that they could
all live in this country where grass and water were both
abundant, and every sign of more or less wild game.
Those of the company who had no cattle made their way
directly to Los Angeles, and from thence to the coast from
which most of them reached San Francisco by sailing vessel.
Those who had no money were given a passage on credit, and it
is believed that all such debts were afterwards honestly
paid.
Capt. Doty made a proposition to buy out the oxen of some
who had only one or two, giving his note for them payable in
San Francisco or anywhere up north they might chance to meet,
and many of them accepted and went to the coast. In this way
Doty secured oxen enough to supply one for each of those who
decided to go with him. They decided to use them for pack
animals to carry their blankets, and to proceed slowly toward
the mines, killing game, if possible, and permitting their
animals to graze and improve in condition as they moved.
There must have been from twenty-five to forty people
gathered at the ranch. Among them was the Rev. J.W. Brier who
seemed to want to impress it on the new California friends
that he was the man of all others to be honored. The ranchman
was a good Catholic, and Brier tried to make him understand
that he, also, was very devout. He said, and repeated to him
very often—"Me preacher," but he did not
succeed very well in impressing the good Californian with the
dignity of his profession, for he could talk no Spanish and
was not highly gifted in sign language.
When they went away they had no way to reward their good
friends who had been friends indeed to them. They could only
look their thanks and express themselves in a very few words
of Spanish. "Adios Amigos," said they to the
scantily clothed travelers as they set out on their way to the
mines.
They followed down the course of the river that flowed
through the valley, the Santa Clara River, and knew that it
would take them to the sea at last. Before they reached the
mission of San Buena Ventura, near the sea, they ran out of
meat again, for they had failed to find game as they had
expected, and Capt. Asa Haynes took the chances of killing a
Spanish cow that looked nice and fat. They camped around the
carcass and ate, and smoked the meat that was left. While thus
engaged two horsemen approached, and after taking a good look
at the proceedings, galloped off again. When the party arrived
at the Mission they were arrested and taken before the alcalde
to give an account of their misdeeds. They realized that they
were now in a bad fix, and either horn of the dilemma was bad
enough. They could not talk Spanish; they had no money; they
had killed somebody's cow; they were very hungry; they might
be willing to pay, but had no way of doing it; they did not
want to languish in jail, and how to get out of it they could
not understand. Luck came to them, however, in the shape of a
man who could speak both English and Spanish, to whom they
told their story and who repeated it to the alcalde, telling
him of their misfortunes and unfortunate condition, and when
that officer found out all the circumstances he promptly
released them as he did not consider them as criminals. The
cow was probably worth no more than ten dollars.
At Santa Barbara they found a chance to trade off some of
their oxen for mares, which were not considered worth much,
and managed the barter so well that they came out with a horse
apiece and a few dollars besides, with which to buy grub along
the road. They depended mostly on their guns for supplying
them with food. They supposed they were about three hundred
miles from San Francisco, and expected to meet with but few
people except at the Missions, of which they had learned there
were a few along the road. At these there was not much to be
had except dried beef. However, they managed to use the guns
with fair success, and at last arrived safely at Stockton
where they sold some of their horses for more than double what
they cost, and with a small number of horses they packed on to
the gold mines.
Those of the party who went to Los Angeles managed in one
way or another to get through on schooners, and many of them,
after a year or two of hard work, made some money and returned
to their homes in Illinois. It is hardly necessary to add that
they did not return via Death Valley.
Some years afterward the members of this party who had
returned to their Eastern homes formed themselves into an
organization which they called the Jayhawkers' Union,
appointed a chairman and secretary, and each year every one
whose name and residence could be obtained was notified to be
present at some designated place on the fourth day of February
which was the date on which they considered they passed from
impending death into a richly promising life. They always had
as good a dinner as Illinois could produce, cooked by the
wives and daughters of the pioneers, and the old tales were
told over again.
One part of the program was the calling of the roll, and
such reports and letters as had come to hand. The following is
a list of the members of the party so far as can be
ascertained, as gathered from recollections and from the
reports of the meetings of the reunions.
The following named were living, so far as known, in
1893:—John B. Colton and Alonzo C. Clay, of Galesburg,
Ill., Luther A. Richards, of Woodhull, Ill., Chas. B. Mecum,
of Ripley, Iowa, John W. Plummer, of Tulon, Ill., Edward
Bartholomew, Urban P. Davidson, John Crosscup and L. Dow
Stephens, of San Jose, California, Harrison Frans and Thomas
Shannon, of Los Gatos, Cal., J.W. Brier and wife, Lodi, Cal.,
three children of Mr. Brier.
The following are supposed to be dead:—Ann Haines,
Knoxville, Ill., Sidney P. Edgerton, formerly of Blair,
Nebraska, Thomas McGrew, John Cole, Wm. B. Rude, Wm. Robinson
and Alex. Palmer, of Knoxville, Ill., Marshall B. Edgerton,
late of Galesburg, Ill. Wm. Ischam, of Rochester, N.Y.,
Mr.---- Fish, of Oskaloosa, Iowa, John L. West, Aaron Larkin,
Capt. Edwin Doty and Brien Byram, of Knoxville, Ill., Mr.----
Carter, of Wisconsin, Geo. Allen, Leander Woolsey and Chas.
Clark, of Henderson, Ill., Mr. ---- Gretzinger, of Oskaloosa,
Iowa, and a Frenchman whose name is unknown.
There were some others connected more or less with the
party at some part of the trip, but not coming in with the
Jayhawker organization. So far as learned, their names are as
follows:—John Galler, Jim Woods and Jim Martin of Miss.,
Ed Croker of N.Y., David Funk, Mr. Town, Henry Wade, wife and
three children, Nat Ward, John D. Martin, of Texas, Old
Francis, a Frenchman, Fred Carr and Negro "Joe,"
from Miss.
There were a great many reports about finding rich mines
about this time, and these stories have been magnified and
told in all sorts of ways since then, and parties have
returned to try to find the great riches.
Among the Jayhawkers were two Germans who could speak but
little English and probably for this reason, kept apart from
the remainder of the party.
One day, after the wagons were abandoned these German
fellows were marching along alone with their packs on their
backs in the warm sun, suffering very much for want of water
and food, when one of them sat down on a hill-side in pretty
nearly absolute despair, while the other man went down into a
ravine hoping to find a puddle of water in the rocky bottom
somewhere, though it was almost a forlorn hope. All at once he
called out to his partner on the hill—"John, come
down here and get some of this gold. There is a lot of
it." To this poor John Galler only
replied:—"No, I won't come. I don't want any gold,
but I would like very much to have some water and some
bread." And so they left the valuable find and slowly
walked on, pulling through at last with the rest of them, and
reaching Los Angeles.
The man who found the gold went to the Mission of San Luis
Rey and started a small clothing store, and some time
afterward was killed. John Galler settled in Los Angeles and
established a wagon shop in which he did a successful
business. He was an honest, industrious man and the people had
great confidence in him. He often told them about what his
partner had said about finding the gold in the desert, and the
people gave him an outfit on two or three occasions to go back
and re-locate the find, but he did not seem to have much idea
of location, and when he got back into the desert again things
looked so different to him that he was not able to identify
the place, or to be really certain they were on the same trail
where his companion found the gold.
The Author saw him in 1862 and heard what he had to say
about it, and is convinced that it was not gold at all which
they saw. I told him that I more than suspected that what he
saw was mica instead of gold and that both he and his partner
had been deceived, for more than one man not used to gold had
been deceived before now. "No sir!" said he, "I
saw lots of gold in Germany, and when I saw that I knew what
it was." The Author went back over that trail in 1862 and
sought out the German on purpose to get information about the
gold. He could not give the name of a single man who was in
the party at that time, but insisted that it was gold he saw
and that he knew the trail.
The Author was able to identify with reasonable certainty
the trails followed by the different parties, but found no
signs of gold formation except some barren quartz, and this
after an experience of several years in both placer and quartz
mines. So honest John Galler's famous placer mine still
remains in the great list of lost mines, like the Gunsight
Lead and other noted mines for which men have since prospected
in vain.
Alexander Combs Erkson was one of the pioneers of 1849,
having left the state of Iowa in the month of May, when he
assisted in organizing a company known as the "Badger
Company" at Kanesville, the object being mutual
assistance and protection. This company joined the Bennett
party mentioned so prominently in this history, at the
Missouri, and traveled with them or near them to the
rendezvous near Salt Lake where the new company was organized
for the southern trip taken by the Death Valley party, the
Jayhawkers and others. As the experience of Mr. Erkson was in
some respects different to that of the parties mentioned, he
having taken a different route for a part of the way, it was
thought best to embody it in this history. The following was
dictated to the editor of this book, and as Mr. Erkson died
before the written account could be revised by him, it is the
best that can possibly be obtained.
"We arrived at the Mormon camp near Salt Lake, Salt
Lake City, in the month of August. Several of us went to work
getting out lumber for Brigham Young while we were waiting and
resting. The mormons all advised us not to undertake to go on
by the northern route, and as the travelers gathered at this
point they canvassed the situation. We used our teams when we
were at work for Brigham and assisted in building a dam across
a cañon where he intended to build a woolen mill. I
earned about a hundred dollars by my work, which was paid to
me in ten-dollar pieces of a gold coin made by the Mormons.
They were not like the U.S. coins. I remember one side had an
eye and the words—"Holiness to the Lord."
We entered into an agreement with Capt. Hunt, a Mormon, to
pilot us through, and turned all our gold into that company,
thus bringing none of the Mormon gold with us. We went on with
the company as has been related in the foregoing pages, till
we arrived at Mt. Misery, so named by us, when we took the
back track, while Mr. Manley and the others went on as they
have related. We had meetings by the light of a greenwood
fire, and the matter was talked up in little knots of people,
and then some one would get up and speak. One J.W. Brier, a
preacher, was the principal blower. 'You are going wrong!'
said he, We should go west, and in six weeks we will be loaded
with gold!'
Hunt got a little confused at a place called Beaver
Meadows, or Mountain Meadows, and thought perhaps he could
find a new road. Several men were sent out to look, and some
of us in camp played ball for amusement while we were waiting.
Hunt's men came back and said there were no prospects of a new
road, and he said he knew the southern route and believed it
would be safe to go that way.
He told us that we must decide the next day. When we came
to the road where we were to separate he filed off on his road
and the others filed off on their road and then came back with
their whips in their hands. I had filed in after Hunt, and
they tried to convince me that I was very wrong. A Mr. Norton
of Adrian, Mich., promised Mrs. Erkson a horse to ride if she
would go, and so I left Hunt and turned in on the other road,
the hindmost wagon. This is going back a little with the
history and bringing it up to Mt. Misery. On my way back from
Mt. Misery I climbed up on a big rock and inscribed the
date—Nov. 10, 1849.
In our journey we came to what is called 'The rim of the
Basin,' and traveled along on that a distance till we came to
the Santa Clara River and saw where the Indians had raised
corn and melons. We followed on down that stream and found our
teams gradually failing. Noting this we decided to overhaul
our loads and reject a lot of things not strictly necessary to
preserve life. I know I threw out a good many valuable and
pretty things by the roadside. I remember six volumes of
Rollin's Ancient History, nicely bound, with my name on the
back, that were piled up and left. We followed along near the
Santa Clara River till it emptied into the Virgin River. It
was somewhere along here that we first saw some Yucca trees.
The boys often set fire to them to see them burn.
The Virgin River was a small stream running on about the
course we wanted to travel, and we followed this course for
thirty or forty miles. We found plenty of wood and water and
mesquite. After awhile the river turned off to the left, while
we wanted to keep to the right, so we parted company there. We
heard of a river beyond which they called the 'Big Muddy' and
we went up a little arroyo, then over a divide to some table
land that led us down to the Big Muddy. We made our wagons as
light as possible, taking off all the boards and stakes we
could possibly get along without. Wm. Philipps and others were
placed on short allowance. They had an idea that I had more
provisions in my wagon than I ought to have, but I told them
that it was clothing that we used to sleep on. I divided among
them once or twice. When we reached the Muddy we stopped two
or three days for there was plenty of feed. It was a narrow
stream that seemed as if it must come from springs. It was
narrow between banks, but ran pretty deep, and a streak of fog
marked its course in the morning. We understood it was not
very far from where we left the Virgin River to the Colorado,
some said not more than fourteen miles and that the Colorado
turned sharply to the south at that point. Mr. Rhynierson and
wife had a child born to them on the Virgin River, and it was
named Virginia.
It was a gloomy trip the whole time on the Muddy. I lost
three or four head of cattle, all within a day and a night.
Mrs. Erkson walked to lighten the load, and would pick all the
bunches of grass she saw and put them on the wagon to feed the
oxen when we stopped. I let them pass me and stopped and fed
the cattle, and slept ourselves. It was said that we ran great
risks from Indians, but we did not see any. I had at this time
only two yoke of oxen left.
We overtook the party next morning at nine o'clock, having
met some of them who were coming back after us. All were
rejoiced that we had come on safely. Here I met Elisha Bennett
and told him my story. He said he could sell me a yoke of
oxen. He had a yoke in J.A. Philipps' team and was going to
take them out. He said nothing in particular as to price. I
said that I wanted to see Mr. Philipps and talk with him about
the matter, for he had said Bennett should not have the
cattle. I went over to see him and spoke to him about
Bennett's cattle and he told me they had quarreled and I could
have them, and so we made a bargain. I gave twenty dollars for
the cattle, the last money I had, and as much provisions as he
could carry on his back. They were making up a party to reach
the settlements at the Williams ranch, and I made arrangements
for them to send back provisions for us. About thirty started
that way—young men and men with no families with
them.
I got along very well with my new team after that. It was
about forty miles from water to water, and I think we camped
three times. At one place we found that provisions had been
left, with a notice that the material was for us, but the
red-skins got the provisions. We struck a spring called-----,
a small spring of water, and a child of some of the party died
there and was buried.
We then went more nearly south to find the Mojave River,
for we hoped to find water there. It was very scarce with us
then, We had one pretty cold day, but generally fine weather,
and to get along we traveled at night and a party struck the
Mojave. Here there was some grass, and the mustard was
beginning to start up and some elder bushes to put forth
leaves. I picked some of the mustard and chewed it to try to
get back my natural taste. Here the party divided, a part
going to the left to San Bernardino and the remainder to the
right to Cucamunga. I was with the latter party and we got
there before night.
Rhynierson said to one of the party—'Charlie, you had
better hurry on ahead and try to get some meat before the
crowd comes up.' Charlie went on ahead and we drove along at
the regular gait which was not very fast about these times. We
saw nothing of Charlie and so I went to the house to look for
him and found him dead drunk on wine. He had not said a word
to them about provisions. That wine wrecked us all. All had a
little touch of scurvy, and it seemed to be just what we
craved. I bought a big tumbler of it for two bits and carried
it to my wife. She lasted it at first rather gingerly, then
took a little larger sup of it, and then put it to her lips
and never slopped drinking till the last drop was gone. I
looked a little bit surprised and she looked at me and
innocently asked—'Why! Haven't you had any?' I was
afraid she would be the next one to be dead drunk, but it
never affected her in that way at all. We bought a cow here to
kill, and used the meat either fresh or dried, and then went
on to the Williams, or Chino ranch. Col. Williams was glad to
see us, and said we could have everything we wanted. We wanted
to get wheat, for we had lived so long on meat that we craved
such food. He told us about the journey before us and where we
would find places to camp. Here we found one of the Gruwells.
We camped here a week, meeting many emigrants who came by way
of Santa Fe.
We went on from here to San Gabriel where we staid six
weeks to rest and recuperate the cattle. In the good grass we
found here they all became about as fat as ever in a little
while. Here the party all broke up and no sort of an
organization was kept up beyond here. Some went to Los
Angeles, some went on north, trading off their cattle for
horses, and some went directly to the coast. We went to the
Mission of San Fernando where we got some oranges which were
very good for us. There is a long, tedious hill there to get
over. We made up ten wagons. By the time we reached the San
Francisquito Ranch I had lost my cattle. I went down to this
ranch and there met Mr. and Mrs. Arcane getting ready to go to
San Pedro. We came north by way of Tejon pass and the Kern
River, not far from quite a large lake, and reached the mines
at last. I remember we killed a very fat bear and tried out
the grease, and with this grease and some flour and dried
apples Mrs. Erkson made some pretty good pies which the miners
were glad to get at a dollar and even two dollars
apiece."
Mr. Erkson followed mining for about a year and then went
into other business until he came to Santa Clara Valley and
began farming near Alviso. He has been a highly respected
citizen and progressive man, He died in San Jose in the spring
of 1893.