Uckfield (43½ m.) old church was pulled down in the early nineteenth century, and its successor is of no interest. An old stone house in front of the "King's Head" was once the village lock-up. A picturesque outcrop of the Hastings sandstone around a small lake forms a beauty spot of local fame: it is within the demesne of "The Rocks" on the west of the town.
[An alternative route to Lewes could be taken from Uckfield through the best part of the Ouse valley; nearly half-way and on the right is Isfield ("Eyefield"), the church is interesting.]
The road now bears south-east to High Cross and then by Halland to East Hoathly (48¼ m.). The church here has the Pelham buckle as a dripstone. Note the Norman piscina. In five miles the little hamlet of Horsebridge is reached. We are now in the Cuckmere valley.
[One mile short of this a round of four miles could be made via The Dicker to Mickleham Priory and Hailsham. The Priory is now a farmhouse; the position of the chapel is shown by some arches built into the wall. The interior has a fine cowled fireplace and Early English crypt. The gatehouse is the only complete portion of the Priory buildings. Permission must be obtained to view the interior.]
The Eastbourne road crosses the Cuckmere and turns sharp to the right before reaching the railway.
Hailsham (55½ m.). The fine pinnacled tower of the church shows up well above the roofs of the old market town, which, however, has little to show the visitor and is not particularly picturesque. The immediate surroundings of the road are tame until we enter the woodlands, which surround the route almost to Polegate (58½ m.). We now have fine views of the Downs on our right front though Willingdon to Eastbourne (63 m.).
LONDON TO SEAFORD BY EAST GRINSTEAD AND LEWES
This route follows the Brighton road through Croydon to Purley (12½ m.). Here we bear south-east and follow the Eastbourne road through suburban but pleasant Kenley and Whyteleafe to Caterham (17½ m.). The North Downs are crossed between Gravelly hill (Water Tower) and Marden Castle, followed by a long descent to Godstone (20 m.), built around a charming green with a fine old inn ("Clayton Arms") on the left. A lane at the side of the inn leads to the interesting church and almshouses. The direct road onwards, runs over Tilburstow Hill (500 feet), but the better route bears left and passes Godstone station, rejoining the old road at Springfield (23 m.).
[At Blindley Heath a road bears left to Lingfield, a pretty village with an interesting church, once collegiate. Note misererie seats and choir screen (fifteenth century). Tombs of the 1st, 2nd and 3rd Lord Cobhams and other interesting tombs and brasses.]
At Fellbridge, just past the Horley road, we enter Sussex and, after a short rise and fall, arrive at East Grinstead (30 m.). This is one of the pleasantest towns of the Weald, with many old houses here and there in the High Street. The church, though of imposing appearance from a distance, is, on closer acquaintance, disappointing; the fabric dating from 1790. Note an iron tomb slab (1570). Not far from the church is the Jacobean Sackville College. Here the celebrated Father Neale was warden for twenty-five years. (In barely two miles from the centre of the town a lane leads over the railway to the right in 1/3 mile to the picturesque ruins of Brambletye.)
Forest Row (33 m.), on the river Medway. The road now climbs steadily between woods to Wych Cross (35 m.). Grand views south and west. This is one of the finest passes over the Forest Ridge and the peculiar characteristics of the Hastings sands are here seen to the best advantage. These high sandy moors, covered with glorious stretches of bracken and heather, here and there clothed in dense growths of oak and beech, with occasional distinctive clumps of Scots fir and beneath all a thick tangle of bramble, a perfect sanctuary of wild life, are more reminiscent of Radnor or Galloway than of the south country.
The right-hand road is taken at the fork and there follows a long coast down to Danehill, where the Lewes road bears left to Sheffield Green (40 m.).
[A road to the left would bring us in 2 miles to Fletching, where the forces of Simon de Montfort started on their march to Mount Harry and subsequent victory of Lewes. The village is the centre of a delightful neighbourhood and is delightful in itself, not only for the charm of its surroundings, but for its quaint and attractive architecture of the humbler sort. The Early English church has been well restored and beautified by the Earl of Sheffield, whose estate lies to the west. Gibbon the historian lies in the Sheffield mausoleum. Note the old glass in the small lancet windows; this was buried in the churchyard during some forgotten trouble and discovered and replaced during the restoration. Several old helmets and gauntlets with the crest of the Nevill's are hung in the north transept. A small brass should be noticed; the inscription refers to a local worthy, P. Devot, who took part in the Cade rebellion.]
Sheffield Park on the left is full of fine timber; at the end we cross the Ouse and the railway and keep straight forward to Chailey (43½ m.) with occasional views ahead of the Lewes Downs. Passing Chailey potteries on the left the road calls for no comment until we pass Cooksbridge station and draw near the Downs.
Offham (48 m.). Lewes (50 m.). There is a choice of routes to Seaford; that passing Southease (54 m.) enters Newhaven and crosses the Ouse there. The alternative road crosses the river in Lewes, runs under Mount Caburn and going through Beddingham (51¼ m.) bears right.
South Heighton (55½ m.).
Seaford (59 m.).
THE BRIGHTON ROAD
This classic fifty-two miles, the scene of many records in coaching, running, cycling and walking, is the shortest way from London to the sea, but not by any means the most interesting either for the lover of nature or the tourist of an antiquarian turn. Distances are reckoned from Westminster Bridge ("Big Ben"). After Kennington comes a two-mile ascent from Brixton to Streatham and then a fairly level stretch to Croydon (10 m.), Whitgift Hospital (1596), Archbishop's Palace, fine rebuilt church. We now enter the chalk country and pass through suburban Purley to Merstham (18 m.).
[Reigate (2 m. right). Large Perpendicular church. The town is pleasant and picturesque but rapidly becoming suburban.]
The road drops between spurs of the North Downs to Redhill (20 m.); a busy railway junction. Thence over Earlswood Common.
Horley (24¾ m.). Interesting church; note yews in churchyard. Lowfield Heath. Three miles from Horley we pass into Sussex and shortly reach Crawley (29¼ m.). Decorated church. Note the quaint lines on one of the roof beams. Mark Lemon lived at Vine Cottage in the village.
[The tiny village of Worth, south of the East Grinstead road and nearly 3 miles from Crawley, should be visited for the sake of its unique Saxon church, the only one remaining which is complete in its ground plan. Notice the typical band of stones supported by pillars which runs round the building; also the curious double font; pulpit dated 1577 and ancient lych-gate. On the north side of the church is a "Devil's Door." The exorcized spirit passed out this way at the sacrament of Baptism.]
We now enter the forest zone. Note the fine retrospect when approaching Pease Pottage (31¼ m.).
[On the left is Tilgate Forest, which is continued by Worth Forest, whence many lovely and lonely paths lead to Horstead Keynes and West Hoathly, whose church has a land-mark spire visible for many miles. Underneath the tower will be seen two iron grave slabs. Within the church notice the Geometrical windows and the triple sedilia. The village is picturesque and well placed, and the local "lion"—"Great upon little," an effect of denudation, is well known. The village is much nearer the Seaford road at Wych Cross, but from the present route we have the advantage of seven miles of woodland otherwise unexplored.
On the right from Pease Pottage, in the recesses of St. Leonard's Forest, and two miles from the main route, is Holmbush Beacon Tower. This should be visited for the sake of the magnificent woodland views; in the distance are the south Downs visible from Butser Hill behind Portsmouth to the hills surrounding Lewes. Hindhead, Blackdown, Leith Hill, the North Downs and the Hampshire Heights are all visible on a clear day.
We are here in a remote district, the haunt of legend and folk-lore almost unequalled in the south. Here St. Leonard put an end to the career of a fierce and fiery dragon, but not before the saint was grievously wounded, and where his blood fell now grow the lilies of the valley, common here but nowhere else in the neighbourhood. Headless horsemen, who have an unpleasant habit of sharing the benighted traveller's steed; witches and warlocks; white-ladies and were-wolves are in great plenty, and the normal inhabitants of the forest must have a fervent appreciation of the high noon and the hours of daylight.]
The two miles south of Pease Pottage are the highest on the road culminating at Handcross, 504 feet (33½ m.). The road now descends the steep and dangerous Handcross Hill.
[At the foot of the hill, half mile right, is Slaugham ("Slaffam") with a Decorated church, old font and brasses.]
Bolney Common (37½ m.) in lovely surroundings. The church has early Norman, or as some authorities declare, Saxon features. The Norman south door, covered by a wooden porch dating from the eighteenth century, should be noticed.
[Cuckfield ("Cookfield") 3 miles left, amidst beautiful scenery, with a fine Early English church commanding a glorious view. Note monuments and handsome reredos. Cuckfield Place is the original of "Rookwood," but has been "improved" out of its ancient character. The Jacobean gate house still stands unrestored at the end of the avenue. Close by is Leigh Pond, a fine sheet of water.]
Albourne Green (42 m.), for Hurstpierpoint (1 m.), beautiful views of the South Downs which we now ascend to Pyecombe (45½ m.).
Preston (49½ m.).
Brighton (front 51½ m.).
THE HORSHAM ROAD
At Kennington Church we leave the Brighton Way and pass Clapham Common, Tooting and Merton to Cheam (11¼ m.) Ewell and Epsom (14½ m.) The Downs and Race-course are up to the left.
Ashtead.
Leatherhead (18½ m.). This little town has some picturesque streets, but is rapidly becoming suburban. The Perpendicular church contains interesting windows. The scenery now greatly improves and becomes beautiful after passing Mickleham, a pretty village with a Transitional church.
Norbury Park, on the right, is one of the most charming places in Surrey. Box Hill (590 feet), which may easily be ascended from the well-placed Burford Bridge Hotel, is on the left. The road, river and rail run through a deep cleft in the North Downs forming the Mole valley and facing the sandstone hills of the Weald. In the shallow depression between the two ranges lies Dorking (23¼ m.). The town is pleasant but has nothing of much interest for the visitor. It is for its fine situation from a scenic point of view and as a convenient headquarters from which to explore the best of Surrey that it will be appreciated. The rebuilt parish church is imposing and stands on the site of the ancient Roman Stane Street. We leave the town by South Street and proceed to Holmwood, from which Leith Hill may be visited, though there are more direct and much finer routes from Dorking.
Capel (28¾ m.). We are now in quiet wealden scenery and there is nothing of special interest until we cross the Sussex boundary, about half a mile beyond the railway bridge. Kingsfold (31½ m.). We now bear left and again 1½ miles farther by Warnham Pond, with memories of Shelley.
Horsham (36 m.). This prosperous and pleasant county centre makes a good halting place. The Early English and Perpendicular church is worth a visit, although practically rebuilt in the middle of the last century. The fine proportions and spacious and lofty interior will at once strike the visitor. Notice the altar tomb of Thomas de Braose (1396), Lord Hoo (1455), Eliz. Delves (1645), and a brass of Thomas Clerke (1411). Also the ancient font. The old "Causeway," which leads to the church from Carfax, as the centre of the town is called, should be more popular with artists than it is. The wonderful colour of some of the Horsham roofs will be noticed; this is due to the local stone with which the older roofs are covered. It seems a pity from an aesthetic point of view that the quarries are no longer used. The great weight of the covering had another advantage, it made for sturdy building and honest workmanship. Horsham no longer has the artificial importance of returning members to Parliament (at one time, two; and as lately as 1885 one), but is now merged in the western division of Sussex, of which district it shares with Midhurst the position of chief agricultural and commercial centre. The town is also becoming residential as East Grinstead, on the other side of the county, has already done.
THE SHOREHAM ROAD
The high road from Horsham skirts Dene Park, which is quite open and commands fine views of the town and the surrounding Weald. To the right may be discerned the buildings of Christ's Hospital and Southwater Station (38½ m.).
Burrell Arms (41½ m.). A halt must be made to view the scanty remains of Knepp Castle, a one time stronghold of the de Braose family. Close by is a beautiful lake, the largest sheet of water in the south of England. The road now bears south-east. To the right and close to the Adur is West Grinstead. The church, partly Norman, should be seen. Note the two naves. The old oak seats bear the names of the farms to whose occupants they have from time immemorial belonged. Behind the altar of the north nave is an aumbry, and in the roof above is a cover once used for suspending the canopy over the Host. There are several interesting monuments including two altar tombs in the Burrell chantry with fine fifteenth century brasses. Note the font, an old stone coffin, foliated lancets, fragments of old stained glass and some remains of ancient frescoes. The rectory is a good specimen of Elizabethan building. West Grinstead House, once the home of the Carylls, friends of Pope, "This verse to Caryl, Muse, is due," Rape of the Lock. The poem is said to have been written under the shade of "Pope's Oak" in the park.
[Cowfold, 3 miles east, is chiefly remarkable for the Carthusian Monastery dedicated to St. Hugh. Its spire is a landmark for many miles. This has been the home of exiled French monks since 1877. Visitors are very courteously shown over the greater part of the building, which is of much interest and contains several venerated relics brought from the monastery of the Grand Chartreuse. The magnificent brass to Nelond, Prior of Lewes, in the parish church should also be seen.]
We now continue south-east and cross the railway to Shoreham. The tall spire seen on the left is St. Hugh's Monastery (above). Partridge Green station (44¼ m.), Ashurst (46¼ m.), with an Early English church. At the top of every rise we are rewarded with glorious views of the Downs crowned by Chanctonbury Ring.
Steyning (49¼ m.).
Bramber (50¼ m.).
New Shoreham (54¼ m.).
THE WORTHING ROAD
As above to the Burrell Arms. The route runs south and then south-west to Dial Post (43¼ m.), and so with striking views ahead through Ashington (46¼ m.) to Washington (48¼ m.).
Findon (51 m.).
Broadwater (54¼ m.).
Worthing (55½ m.).
THE ARUNDEL—CHICHESTER ROAD
This route leaves the Horsham road nearly two miles south of the village of Kingsfold.
Warnham (33¼ m.). The district is the scene of Shelley's childhood and youth. The poet was born at Field Place, about 1½ miles south on the right of the road.
Broadbridge Heath (35¼ m.).
Five Oaks (39 m.). We now join the Roman "Stane Street" from London Bridge to Chichester.
Billingshurst (40¾ m.). Norman and Perpendicular church. Note fine oak panelled ceiling.
[Across the Adur valley, 2½ miles west is the interesting church at Wisborough Green. The situation is delightful and the antiquarian interest more than ordinary. Kemble identifies the mound on which the church is built as being the site of a temple dedicated to Woden (Wisc or "Wish"). Restoration brought to light early Norman (perhaps Saxon) remains in this late Norman church. The chancel is Early English. Notice the tower walls inside. There are some ancient frescoes, a stoup, and other interesting details.]
Adversane (42¾ m.).
Pulborough (46 m.).
Bury (50¾ m.).
Arundel (55¼ m.).
To Chichester at 1¾ m. past Bury turn S.W.
Balls Hut Inn (56½ m.).
Chichester (62 m.).
THE CHICHESTER ROAD VIA GUILDFORD AND MIDHURST
This route follows the Portsmouth Road from Westminster through Wandsworth and over Putney Heath to Kingston (12 m.). Here we bear left past the King's stone and then by way of the river bank through Thames Ditton to Esher (16 m.), then by the famous "Ripley Road" over Fairmile Common and through Street Cobham (19½ m.).
Ripley (23¾ m.).
Guildford (29¾ m.). A prosperous and good-looking old town in danger of becoming smug and suburban; the steep and picturesque High Street, however, keeps its old time amenities. The ruins of the castle keep may be seen south of the High Street. Abbott's Hospital (1619), the Guildhall with projecting clock (1683); St. Mary's church, Norman and Early English. Note paintings in north chapel. St. Nicholas' Church has been mostly rebuilt. Our road turns left just beyond the Wey bridge and passes under the ruins of St. Catherine's Chapel on the left. At Shalford (30¾ m.), bear right to Godalming (34¼ m.) in the centre of a lovely country. Here is a large cruciform church, Norman and Early English, with interesting brasses and pulpit.
Milford (35 m.). A long rise follows to Brookstreet (39¼ m.) and a dangerous drop just beyond. Haslemere (43 m.). Although the scenery is very beautiful on all sides of this once remote hamlet, the late nineteenth century saw a colonization of the slopes of Hindhead, with the attendant outbreak of red brick, which has almost completely spoilt the neighbourhood. Branch excursions may be made towards the Hampshire border and to Chiddingfold country. We cross the Sussex boundary one mile south of the town and are immediately in the lonely and very lovely Blackdown country. A climb follows to Kingsley Marsh and a steep descent to Fernhurst (46¼ m.).
[Blackdown, the highest point in Sussex (918 feet) can be easily reached from here, the distance is about two miles in each direction with woodland most of the way. The view from the summit is magnificent in every direction. Aldworth, where Tennyson died, is on a spur of the hill slightly east of north.]
Henley (48½ m.). A picturesque hamlet below the road commanding magnificent views of Blackdown. A steep descent, then a road through lovely woodlands brings us to Midhurst (51 m.).
Cocking (54 m.). Steep hills.
West Dean (57½ m.).
Chichester (63 m.).
LONDON TO EASTBOURNE BY OXTED AND HEATHFIELD
Only slow trains, with possible change of carriage, by this route; the Eastbourne expresses run by Three Bridges and Lewes. After Croydon the long ascent between the northern slopes of the Surrey Downs extends to Woldingham Tunnel. Wide views and retrospect of the Downs. Oxted (20 m.) (church and village right).
Edenbridge (25 m.).
Hever.
Cowden. The line crosses the Kent water and enters Sussex. Ashurst (Infant Medway right). Eridge (35½ m.) (a good centre from which to explore north-east Sussex). Rotherfield. Mayfield (scenery reminiscent of Devon). Hailsham (49¾ m.) for Hurstmonceux. Polegate. Eastbourne (57 m.).
LONDON TO SEAFORD BY EAST GRINSTEAD AND LEWES
(To Oxted above.) Lingfield (picturesque village and well-known racing headquarters.) West Hoathly (34 m.). (Ashdown Forest left). Horsted Keynes. Newick. Lewes (50¼ m.). Newhaven (56½ m.). Seaford (59 m.).
LONDON TO BRIGHTON BY REDHILL AND THREE BRIDGES
This is the line of the fast expresses, and in the summer one of the busiest 50 miles of railway in the kingdom. Croydon. Purley. Merstham. Redhill (20½ m.). Express Trains pass to the left of this station (fine views). Horley. Gatwick (race-course, right). A long climb over the Forest Ridge followed by a drop to the Ouse viaduct (St. Saviour's College, Ardingley, left). Hayward's Heath (37¾ m.) (a suburban growth). Wivelsfield. Burgess Hill (Ditchling Beacon, left front). Hassocks (43½ m.) (Clayton Tunnel). Preston Park. Brighton (50½ m.).
LONDON TO SHOREHAM AND WORTHING
Sutton (15 m.) (an outlier of villadom). Ewell. Epsom (18½ m.). Ashtead. Leatherhead (22¾ m.). The scenery rapidly improves and before reaching Box Hill Station attains much beauty. Dorking (26¾ m.). Holmwood (31¾ m.) (Leith Hill, right, conspicuous by its tower). Capel. Horsham (40¼ m.). Christ's Hospital (left). Southwater. West Grinstead (Chanctonbury Ring, right). Henfield (52¾ m.). The Adur valley is followed to Steyning and Bramber. New Shoreham (60¼ m.). Worthing (64¾ m.).
LONDON TO ARUNDEL AND CHICHESTER
(To Horsham above.) Billingshurst (46 m.). Pulborough (junction for an alternative route to Chichester via Midhurst). Views (left) of the long escarpment of the Downs. Villages on the Arun (right). Amberley Castle (left) and (exceedingly fine) Arundel Castle (right). Arundel (59¼ m.). Ford. Barnham. Chichester (70½ m.).