"Now we hope for a chance to pepper these devilish Dutch
     traders. They have salted us too long. We know where their
     booty is stored. And we know also where the young girls live
     who wear gold chains."

Under these circumstances the governor was compelled to yield. He appointed six commissioners to confer with the same number of the English. The parties met at Governor Stuyvesant's residence on his farm or bouwerie, at eight o'clock in the morning of August 27th. The terms were speedily settled, for the English would enforce any demands which they were disposed to make. There were twenty-three articles of agreement, entering into many details. The substance was that New Netherland passed over entirely to the English. The Dutch retained their property. If any chose to leave the country they could do so. The ships of the Dutch merchants could, for the six months next ensuing, trade freely with the Netherlands, as heretofore. The people were to be allowed liberty of conscience in divine worship and church discipline. No Dutchman should be impressed to serve in war against any nation whatever. All the inferior civil officers were allowed to continue in office until the next election, when they would be required to take the oath of allegiance to the king of England.

The next day was Sunday. These articles were therefore not ratified until eight o'clock Monday morning. It was agreed that within two hours after the ratification, "the fort and town called New Amsterdam, upon the island of Manhatoes," should be delivered up. The military officers of the fort, and the soldiers were to be permitted to march from their intrenchments with their arms, drums beating and colors flying.

Colonel Nicholls took possession of the government. He changed the name of the city from New Amsterdam to New York, in honor of the Duke of York, the brother of the King of England. The fort was called fort James. Colonel Nicholls became the deputy governor for James, the Duke of York, in administering the affairs of the extended realms which the British government had thus perfidiously seized. We regret to say, but history will bear us out in the assertion, that there is no government in Christendom whose annals are sullied with so many acts of unmitigated villany as the government of Great Britain.

Colonel Nicholls immediately sent an armed force up the river, to take possession of fort Orange; and another to the Delaware, to unfurl the English flag over New Amstel. The name of fort Orange was changed to fort Albany, the second title of the Duke of York. Three frigates were sent to the Delaware. The severest punishment was denounced against the Dutch and Swedes there, should they make any resistance. The same terms were offered them which were granted to the people at New Amsterdam.

The command of this expedition was entrusted to Sir Robert Carr. Notwithstanding the sacred stipulations into which Carr had entered, he trampled them all beneath his feet. Governor Stuyvesant writes,

     "At New Amstel, on the South river, notwithstanding they
     offered no resistance, but demanded good treatment, which
     however they did not obtain, they were invaded, stript bare,
     plundered, and many of them sold as slaves in Virginia."

This testimony is corroborated by a London document, which says,

     "From the city and the inhabitants thereabout were taken one
     hundred sheep, thirty or forty horses, fifty or sixty cows
     and oxen, between sixty and seventy negroes, the brew-house
     still-house and all the material thereunto belonging. The
     produce of the land, such as corn, hay, etc., was also
     seized for the king's use, together with the cargo that was
     unsold, and the bills of what had been disposed of, to the
     value of four thousand pounds sterling.

     "The Dutch soldiers were taken prisoners, and given up to
     the merchant-man that was there, in payment for his
     services; and they were transported into Virginia to be
     sold. All sorts of tools for handicraft tradesmen, and all
     plough gear, and other things to cultivate the ground, which
     were in store in great quantity, were likewise seized,
     together with a sawmill ready to set up, and nine sea buoys
     with their iron chains.

     "Even the inoffensive Menonists, though thoroughly
     non-combatant from principle, did not escape the sack and
     plunder to which the whole river was subjected by Carr and
     his co-marauders. A boat was dispatched to their settlement,
     which was stripped of everything, even to a very nail."

At New Amsterdam, Colonel Nicholls paid more respect to the terms of the treaty. Citizens, residing there, were not robbed of their private property. But the gentlemen of the West India Company, in Holland, found all their property mercilessly confiscated. Colonel Nicholls seized on everything upon which he could lay his hand. He seemed anxious to eradicate every vestige of the former power. This property was sold at auction that it might thus be distributed among a large number of individual owners. The Colonel shrewdly imagined that he might thus interest all these persons in the maintenance of the new power.

History has but one voice, and that of the severest condemnation, in reference to these transactions on the part of the English government. Mr. O'Callaghan writes:

     "Thus was fitly consummated an act of spoliation which, in a
     period of profound peace, wrested this province from the
     rightful owners, by violating all public justice and
     infringing all public law. The only additional outrage that
     remained was to impose on the country the name of one
     unknown in history, save as a bigot and a tyrant, the enemy
     of religious and political freedom wherever he ruled. New
     Netherland was accordingly called New York."

Hon. Benjamin F. Butler, in his outline of the State of New York writes, "In the history of the royal ingrates by whom it was planned and for whose benefit it was perpetrated, there are few acts more base, none more characteristic."

Mr. Brodhead, in his admirable History of the State of New York, says,

     "The flag of England was, at length, triumphantly displayed
     where for half a century that of Holland had triumphantly
     waved; and from Virginia to Canada, the king of Great
     Britain was acknowledged as sovereign. Whatever may have
     been its ultimate consequences, this treacherous and violent
     seizure of the territory and possessions of an unsuspecting
     ally, was no less a breach of private justice than of public
     faith. It may indeed be affirmed that, among all the acts of
     selfish perfidy which royal ingratitude conceived and
     executed, there have been few more characteristic and none
     more base."

Thus the Dutch dominion in North America passed forever away. I cannot refrain from quoting the just tribute to the Dutch government contained in Mr. Brodhead's History. "Holland," he writes,

     "has long been the theme for the ridicule of British
     writers; and even in this country the character and manners
     of the Dutch have been made the subjects of an unworthy
     depreciation. Yet, without undervaluing others, it may
     confidently be claimed that, to no nation in the world is
     the Republic of the West more indebted than to the United
     Provinces, for the idea of the confederation of sovereign
     States; for noble principles of constitutional freedom; for
     magnanimous sentiments of religious toleration; for
     characteristic sympathy with subjects of oppression; for
     liberal doctrines in trade and commerce; for illustrious
     patterns of public integrity and private virtue, and for
     generous and timely aid in the establishment of
     independence. Nowhere among the people of the United States
     can men be found excelling in honesty, industry, courtesy or
     accomplishment, the posterity of the early Dutch settlers of
     New Netherland."

Soon after the surrender, Governor Stuyvesant was recalled to Europe to vindicate his conduct. The severest charges were brought against him. He addressed to the States-General an "Account of the Circumstances preceding the surrender of New Netherland." It was a triumphant vindication of his conduct. But the unfortunate are rarely treated with justice. The pride of Holland was deeply touched by the loss of its North American possessions. Governor Stuyvesant soon returned to New York, and lived in much seclusion in his spacious house on his farm, until he died, in the year 1672. The governor's remains were entombed at his chapel in the Bouwery, now St. Mark's Church.

There were two roads which led from the fort at the Battery, to the northern part of the island. One of these followed along the present line of Broadway to what is now the Park, which was at that time a large unenclosed open field far out of town called the Common. The road then wound along by the southeastern side of the common and by the line of Chatham street and the Bouwery out to Harlaem. This became eventually the "Old Post Road" to Boston. Governor Stuyvesant's Bouwery consisted of many acres of land. The farm embraced the land in the region of Third avenue and Thirteenth street. In the spring of 1647, a pear tree was planted upon this spot, which was long known as "Stuyvesant's pear tree." For more than two centuries it continued to bear fruit. In its latter years, this venerable relic of the past was cherished with the utmost care. It presented many touching indications of its extreme old age. In its two hundred and twentieth year it bloomed for the last time. "Since the fall of the tree," writes Mr. Stone, "a promising shoot from the ancient stock has taken its place, and shows a hardy vigor which may yet enable it to rival its progenitor in age."

In the year 1665, the year which followed the capture of the city, war broke out between England and Holland. It was then generally expected that the States of Holland would make an attempt to recover the lost territory of New Netherland. It was rumored that De Ruyter, one of the Dutch Admirals, had actually set sail, with a large squadron, for New York. The rumor caused great commotion in the city. The national spirit of the Dutch residents was roused to intensity. De Ruyter had indeed sailed with the object of recapturing the province.

Colonel Nicholls was a man of great energy. He immediately commenced with all vigor, the work of repairing the crumbling fortifications, and of erecting new ones. But he found none to co-operate heartily with him, save the few English soldiers, whose bayonets held the conquered province in subjection. A meeting of all the Dutch inhabitants was called to ascertain the tone of public sentiment, and to endeavor to inspire the community with some enthusiasm for the defence.

But no enthusiasm was elicited. The Dutch were not at all unwilling that their countrymen should come back and reclaim their own. Even to defend themselves from the humiliation of conquest, by their English assailants, they had not been willing to submit to a bombardment. Much less were they now willing to subject themselves to the horrors of war, when the flag of Holland was approaching for their deliverance. They did not venture however, openly to oppose the ruler whom the fortunes of war had set over them, or to express sympathy for the success of the approaching fleet, which might be pronounced treason, and might expose them to severe punishment.

They contented themselves with manifesting entire indifference, or in offering sundry excuses. They very sensibly assumed the ground that they were a feeble defenceless colony, far away in the wilderness, entirely unable to cope with the forces which the great maritime powers of England or Holland might send against them. When an English fleet opened the portholes of its broadsides upon their little village, they could do nothing but surrender. Should a fleet from Holland now anchor in their waters they must let events take their natural course.

Colonel Nicholls, as governor, had gifts of honor and opulence in his hands. As was to have been expected, there were a few Dutch citizens who were eager to gratify the governor by co-operating with him in all his plans. This number, however, was small. The great mass of the citizens assumed an air of indifference, while, in heart, they longed for the appearance of the Dutch fleet in such strength as to render resistance impossible.

But either the storms of the ocean, or some other engagements, arrested the progress of the squadron, until after the rupture between England and Holland was temporarily healed. Colonel Nicholls remained in command at New York about four years. His administration was as popular as could reasonably have been expected under the circumstances. He gradually relaxed the severity of his rule, and wisely endeavored to promote the prosperity of the colony. The conquest had retarded the tide of emigration from Holland, and had given a new impulse to that from England. The Dutch gradually became reconciled to his rule. They enjoyed all the rights and immunities which were conferred upon any of the subjects of England in her American colonies. Out of respect to the governor they organized two militia companies, the officers of which were from the most distinguished of the Dutch citizens, and they received their commissions from him.

In August of 1668, Colonel Nicholls, at his own request, was recalled, and he returned to England. The Dutch did not love him, for they never could forget the circumstances under which he had conquered their province. But he had won their respect. As he embarked for the shores of England the great body of the citizens complimented him by a respectful leave-taking.

Colonel Nicholls was succeeded in the government of the province, by Colonel Francis Lovelace. He was an English officer of respectable abilities, and of worthy character. Under his sway, New York for five years, until 1673, enjoyed prosperity and peace. New agitations then took place.

The peace, of which we have spoken, between England and Holland, was of but transient duration. In 1672 war was again declared by England. The conflict which ensued was mainly upon the ocean. New York had so grown since its conquest by the English, and could so easily be reinforced by almost any number of men from populous New England, that the Dutch did not think that there was any chance of their then being able to regain the colony. They, however, fitted out a fleet of five ships, to cruise along the coast of North America, destroy the English, and inflict such injury upon any and all of the English colonies as might be in their power.

Governor Lovelace had no idea that any Dutch ships would venture through the Narrows. He made no special effort to strengthen the defences of New York. Early in February he went to Westchester county, to visit at the residence of his friend Mr. Pell. This was quite a journey in those days. The command of the fort was entrusted, during his absence to Captain John Manning.

A vessel entered the port, bringing the intelligence that a Dutch fleet had been seen off the coast of Virginia, sailing in the direction of New York. This created great commotion. A dispatch was sent, in the utmost haste, to the governor, summoning his return. He promptly mustered, for the defence, all the forces he could raise in the city and neighboring counties, and soon five hundred armed men were parading the streets of New York.

It proved a false dream. No enemy appeared. The troops were disbanded. They returned to their homes. The community was lulled into a very false sense of security. In July, the governor again was absent, on a visit to Connecticut. On the 29th of July the Dutch fleet appeared at Sandy Hook, and, learning from some of the inhabitants of Long Island, whose sympathies were still cordially with the fatherland, that the city was entirely defenceless and could easily be taken, ventured to try the experiment. They had not approached the bay with any such design. They had supposed their force entirely inadequate for so important a capture. The fleet quietly sailed up the bay and, as the English fleet had done but a few years before, anchored opposite the Battery, and turned their broadsides towards the city.

Colonel Manning sent a hurried despatch to the governor, who could by no possibility return for several days, and fluttered about in the attempt to beat up recruits. But no recruits were forthcoming. The sight of the flag of Holland, again triumphantly floating in the harbor, was joyful to many eyes.

The great majority of the people, in the city and in the country, were of Dutch descent. Consequently the recruiting parties which were raised, were in no mood to peril their lives in defence of the flag of England. Indeed it is said that one party of the recruits marched to the Battery and deliberately spiked several of the guns, opposite the City-hall.

It was a most singular revolution of the wheel of fortune. Captain Manning had but fifty soldiers within the fort. None of these were willing to fight. One-half of them were such raw recruits that captain Manning said that they had never put their heads over the ramparts. A few broadsides from the Dutch fleet would dismount every gun in the fort, and put to flight all the defenders who should survive the volley. This was alike obvious to the assailants and the assailed.





CHAPTER XV.—THE FINAL SURRENDER.

     The Summons.—The Bombardment.—Disembarkation of the Land
     Force.—Indecision of Captain Manning.—The
     Surrender.—Short Administration of the Dutch.—Social
     Customs.—The Tea Party.—Testimony of Travellers.—Visit to
     Long Island.—Fruitfulness of the Country.—Exploration of
     Manhattan Island.

The Dutch ships, having anchored and prepared themselves for the immediate opening of the bombardment, a boat was sent on shore with a flag of truce, to demand the surrender of the city. At the same time a boat was sent by Colonel Manning, from the fort to the ships. The boats passed each other without any interchange of words. Colonel Manning's boat bore simply the message to the Dutch Admirals, "Why do you come in such a hostile manner to disturb his Majesty's subjects in this place?" As England and Holland were then engaged in open war, one would hardly think that such an inquiry was then called for. When Colonel Nicholls came to New Amsterdam with his English fleet, the two nations were in friendly alliance. Such a question then would have been very appropriate.

The boat from the Dutch fleet bore a flag of truce at its stern, and was accompanied by a trumpeter, who asked for the English officer in command and presented the following message to Colonel Manning:

     "The force of war, now lying in your sight, is sent by the
     High and Mighty States-General and his serene Highness the
     Prince of Orange, for the purpose of destroying their
     enemies. We have sent you therefore, this letter, together
     with our trumpeter, to the end that, upon the sight hereof,
     you surrender unto us the fort called James, promising good
     quarter; or by your refusal we shall be obliged to proceed,
     both by land and water, in such manner as we shall find to
     be most advantageous for the High and Mighty States."

Captain Manning returned an answer simply acknowledging the receipt of the message, and informing the Dutch Admirals that he had already dispatched officers to communicate with him. He promised upon the return of those messengers to give a definite reply to his summons.

The Dutch Admirals, Benckes and Evertson, were not disposed to waste any time in parleying. They probably remembered the circumstances under which the province of New Netherland had been wrested from them by its present possessors, and they rejoiced that the hour of retribution had thus unexpectedly come.

They therefore sent back word that their batteries were loaded and shotted and ready to open fire; that one half hour and one half hour only, would be granted for deliberation; that immediately upon the arrival of the boat at the fort the half hour glass would be turned up; and that if, when its last sands fell, the white flag of surrender were not raised upon the fort, the bombardment would be commenced.

The last sands fell and no white flag appeared. Instantly the thunder of a cannon echoed over the bay, and a storm of iron hail came crashing upon the frail fort, killing and wounding a number of men. Volley after volley succeeded without any intermission. Captain Manning made no attempt to return the fire. He and his powerless garrison hurried to places of safety, leaving the ramparts to be ploughed up and the barracks to be battered down without any resistance.

While this cannonade was going on, the Dutch Admirals manned their boats with a land force of six hundred men, and they were disembarked upon the shore of the island without encountering any foe. The little band of English soldiers was powerless, and the Dutch inhabitants were much more disposed to welcome their countrymen as deliverers than to oppose them as enemies. These Dutch troops were armed with hand grenades and such other weapons as were deemed necessary to take the place by storm. Rapidly they marched through the fields to the Common, now called the Park. It was, as we have mentioned, nearly a mile north from the fort.

Here they formed in column to march upon the town, under their leader, Captain Colve. The English commander, Captain Manning, sent three of his subordinate officers, without any definite message, to Captain Colve, to talk over the question of a capitulation. It would seem that Captain Manning was quite incompetent for the post he occupied. He was bewildered and knew not what to do. As his envoys had no proposals to make, two of them were detained and held under the Dutch standard, while the third, Captain Carr, was sent back to inform the English commander that if in one quarter of an hour the place were not surrendered, it would be taken by storm. In the meantime the troops were put upon the march.

Captain Carr, aware of the indecision of Captain Manning and of the personal peril he, as an Englishman, would encounter, with six hundred Dutch soldiers sweeping the streets, burning with the desire to avenge past wrongs, did not venture back into the town with his report, but fled into the interior of the island. The troops pressed on to the head of Broadway, where a trumpeter was sent forward to receive the answer to the summons which it was supposed had been made. He speedily returned, saying that the commander of the fort had, as yet, obtained no answer from the commissioners he had sent to receive from the Dutch commander his propositions.

Captain Colve supposed that he was trifled with. Indignantly he exclaimed "They are not to play the fool with us in this way, forward march." With the beat of drums and trumpet peals and waving banners his solid columns marched down the Broadway road to the little cluster of about three hundred houses, at the extreme southern point of the island. An army of six hundred men at that time and place presented a very imposing and terrible military array. In front of his troops the two commissioners who had been detained, were marched under guard.

As they approached the fort, Captain Manning sent another flag of truce to the Dutch commander, with the statement that he was ready to surrender the fort with all its arms and ammunition, if the officers and soldiers were permitted to march out with their private property and to the music of their band. These terms were acceded to. The English troops, with no triumphal strains, vacated the fort. The Dutch banners soon waved from the ramparts, cheered by the acclaim of the conquerors.

Captain Manning was, in his turn, as severely censured by the people of the English colonies in America, and by the home government, as Governor Stuyvesant had been on the day of his misfortune. English pride was grievously mortified, that the commandant of an English fort should allow himself to be fired upon for hours without returning a shot.

The unfortunate captain was subsequently tried by court-martial for cowardice and treachery. He was condemned. His sword was broken over his head and he was declared incompetent forever to hold any station of trust or authority under the government. Governor Lovelace was condemned for neglect of duty. He received a severe reprimand, and all his property was confiscated to the Duke of York.

The victorious Dutch commanders appointed Captain Colve as governor of recaptured New Netherland. With great energy he commenced his rule. The name of New York was changed to New Orange, and fort James became fort Hendrick. Work was immediately commenced upon the fortifications, and large sums of money were expended upon them, so that within two months they were deemed so strong that it was thought that no English fleet would dare to venture within range of their guns. The whole city assumed the aspect of a military post. Nearly every citizen was trained to arms. The Common, now the Park, was the parade ground where the troops were daily drilled. It was very firmly resolved that the city should not again surrender without the firing of a gun.

The municipal institutions were all re-organized to conform to those of the fatherland. This second administration of the Dutch was of but short duration. On the 9th of January, 1674, but about three months after the re-capture of the city, a treaty of peace was signed between England and Holland. The sixth article of this treaty read as follows,

     "Whatsoever countries, islands, ports, towns, castles or
     forts have been taken on both sides, since the time that the
     late unhappy war broke out, either in Europe or elsewhere,
     shall be restored to the former lord or proprietor in the
     same condition they shall be in when peace itself shall be
     proclaimed."

Several months however transpired before the actual re-surrender of the city to the English. On the 10th of November 1674, a little more than one year after the capture of the city by the Dutch, this change took place. Mr. David V. Valentine writes:

     "This event was not distasteful to the great body of the
     citizens, whose national sentiment had, in a measure, given
     way before the obvious advantages to their individual
     interests of having a settled authority established over
     them, with the additional privilege of English institutions
     which were then considered of a liberal tendency."

In conclusion, we have but a few words to say respecting the manners and customs in the thriving little village of New York, in these primitive days. People were then, to say the least, as happy as they are now. Food was abundant, and New York was far-famed for its cordial hospitality. Days of recreation were more abundant than now. The principal social festivals were "quilting," "apple paring" and "husking." Birthdays, christenings, and marriage anniversaries were also celebrated with much festivity. Upon most of these occasions there was abundant feasting. Dancing was the favorite amusement, with which the evening was almost invariably terminated. In this busy community the repose of the night was necessary to prepare for the labors of the ensuing day. The ringing of the nine o'clock bell was the signal for all to retire.

A mild form of negro slavery existed in those days. The slaves danced to the music of their rude instruments in the markets. The young men and maidens often met on the Bowling green and danced around the May pole. Turkey shooting was a favorite amusement, which usually took place on the Common. New Year's Day was devoted to the interchange of visits. Every door was thrown open, and all guests were welcome, friends as well as strangers, as at a Presidential levee. This custom of olden time has passed down to us from our worthy Dutch predecessors. Dinner parties were unknown. But tea-parties, with the ladies, were very common.

"To take tea out," writes Mr. William L. Stone, in his interesting History of New York,

     "was a Dutch institution, and one of great importance. The
     matrons, arrayed in their best petticoats and linsey
     jackets, home-spun by their own wheels, would proceed on the
     intended afternoon visit. They wore capacious pockets, with
     scissors, pin-cushion and keys hanging from their girdle,
     outside of their dress; and reaching the neighbor's house
     the visitors industriously used knitting needles and tongues
     at the same time. The village gossip was talked over;
     neighbors' affairs settled, and the stockings finished by
     tea-time, when the important meal appeared on the table,
     precisely at six o'clock.

     "This was always the occasion for the display of the family
     plate, with the Lilliputian cups, of rare old family china,
     out of which the guests sipped the fragrant herb. A large
     lump of loaf sugar invariably accompanied each cup, on a
     little plate, and the delightful beverage was sweetened by
     an occasional nibble, amid the more solid articles of
     waffles and Dutch doughnuts. The pleasant visit finished,
     the visitors donning cloaks and hoods, as bonnets were
     unknown, proceeded homeward in time for milking and other
     necessary household duties.

     "The kitchen fire-places were of immense size large enough
     to roast a whole sheep. The hooks and trammels sustained
     large iron pots and kettles. In the spacious chimney-corners
     the children and negroes gathered, telling stories and
     cracking nuts by the blazing pine-knots, while the
     industrious vrows turned the merry spinning-wheel, and
     their lords, the worthy burghers, mayhap just returned from
     an Indian scrimmage, quietly smoked their long pipes, as
     they sat watching the wreaths curling above their heads. At
     length the clock with its brazen tongue having proclaimed
     the hour of nine, family prayers were said, and all retired,
     to rise with the dawn."

In the summer of 1679, but five years after the final accession of New Netherland by the English, two gentlemen from Holland, as the committee of a religious sect, visited the Hudson river, to report respecting the condition of the country, and to select a suitable place for the establishment of a colony. They kept a minute journal of their daily adventures. From their narrative one can obtain a very vivid picture of New York life two hundred years ago.

On Saturday, the 23d day of September, they landed at New York, and found it a very strange place. A fellow passenger, whose name was Gerritt, and who was on his return from Europe, resided in New York. He took the travellers to the house of one of his friends, where they were regaled with very luscious peaches, and apples far better than any they had seen in Holland. They took a walk out into the fields and were surprised to see how profusely the orchards wore laden with fruit. They took up lodgings with the father-in-law of their fellow-traveller, and in the evening were regaled with rich milk. The next day was Sunday.

"We walked awhile," they write,

     "in the pure mountain air, along the margin of the clear
     running water of the sea, which is driven up this river at
     every tide. We went to church and found truly there a wild
     worldly people. I say wild, not only because the people are
     wild, as they call it in Europe, but because most all the
     people who go there, partake somewhat of the nature of the
     country; that is peculiar to the land where they live."

The preacher did not please them. "He used such strange gestures and language," writes one of them, "that I think I never in my life heard anything more miserable. As it is not strange in these countries, to have men as ministers, who drink, we could imagine nothing else than that he had been drinking a little this morning. His text was Come unto me all ye, etc.; but he was so rough that the roughest and most godless of our sailors were astonished.

     "The church being in the fort, we had an opportunity to look
     through the latter, as we had come too early for preaching.
     The fort is built upon the point formed by the two rivers,
     namely the East river, which is the water running between
     the Manhattans and Long Island, and the North river, which
     runs straight up to fort Orange. In front of the fort there
     is a small island called Nut Island. Around the point of
     this vessels must sail in going out or in, whereby they are
     compelled to pass close by the point of the fort, where they
     can be flanked by several of the batteries. It has only one
     gate and that is on the land side, opening upon a broad lane
     or street, called the Broadway."

They went to church again in the afternoon. "After preaching," they write,

     "the good old people with whom we lodged, who, indeed if
     they were not the best on all the Manhattan, were at least
     among the best, especially the wife, begged we would go with
     their son Gerrit, to one of their daughters who lived in a
     delightful place and kept a tavern, where we would be able
     to taste the beer of New Netherland. So we went, for the
     purpose of seeing what was to be seen. But when we arrived
     there we were much deceived. On account of its being, to
     some extent, a pleasant spot, it was resorted to on Sundays
     by all sorts of revellers and was a low pothouse. It being
     repugnant to our feelings to be there, we walked into the
     orchard, to seek pleasure in contemplating the innocent
     objects of nature. A great storm of rain coming up in the
     evening, we retraced our steps in the dark, exploring our
     way through a salt meadow, and over water upon the trunk of
     a tree."

On Thursday the 26th, our two travellers, at two o'clock in the afternoon, crossed East river to visit Long Island. The fare in the ferry-boat, which was rowed across, was three stivers, less than half a cent of our money, for each person. They climbed the hill and walked along through an open road and a little woods to "the first village, called Breukelen, which has a small and ugly little church in the middle of the road." The island was then mostly inhabited by Indians. There were several flourishing farms in the vicinity of Brooklyn, which they visited and where they were bountifully regaled with milk, cider, fruit, tobacco and "first and most of all, miserable rum, brought from Barbadoes, and which is called by the Dutch kill devil."

The peach orchards were breaking down beneath the burden of luscious fruit. They often could not step without trampling upon the peaches, and yet the trees were full as they could bear. Though the swine were fattened upon them, still large numbers perished upon the ground. In the evening they went on to a place called Gouanes, where they were very hospitably entertained. It was a chill evening, and they found a brilliant fire of hickory wood crackling upon the hearth.

"There had already been thrown upon it," they write,

     "a pail full of Gouanes oysters, which are the best in the
     country. They are large, some of them not less than a foot
     long, and they grow, sometimes ten, twelve and sixteen
     together, and are then like a piece of rock. We had for
     supper a roasted haunch of venison which weighed thirty
     pounds, and which he had bought of the Indians for fifteen
     cents. The meat was exceedingly tender and good and quite
     fat. We were served also with wild turkey, which was also
     fat and of a good flavor, and a wild goose. Everything we
     had was the natural production of the country. We saw lying
     in a heap, a hill of watermelons as large as pumpkins. It
     was late at night when we went to rest, in a Kermis bed, as
     it is called, in the corner of the hearth, alongside of a
     good fire."

     "The next morning they threaded their way through the
     forest, and along the shore to the extreme west end of the
     island, where fort Hamilton now stands. They passed through
     a large plantation, of the Najack Indians, which was waving
     with corn. A noise of pounding drew them to a place where a
     very aged Indian woman was beating beans out of the pods
     with a stick, which she did with amazing dexterity. Near by
     was the little cluster of houses of the dwindling tribe. The
     village consisted of seven or eight huts, occupied by
     between twenty and thirty Indians, men, women and children.

     "These huts were about sixty feet long and fifteen wide. The
     floor was of earth. The posts were large limbs of trees,
     planted firmly in the ground. The sides were of reeds and
     the bark of trees. An open space, about six inches wide, ran
     along the whole length of the roof, for the passage of
     smoke. On the sides the roof was so low that a man could not
     stand under it.

     "They build their fire in the middle of the floor, according
     to the number of families which live in the hut; not only
     the families themselves, but each Indian alone, according as
     he is hungry, at all hours morning, noon and night. They lie
     upon mats with their feet towards the fire. All in one
     house, are generally of one stock, as father and mother,
     with their offspring. Their bread is maize, pounded by a
     stone, which is mixed with water and baked under the hot
     ashes.

     "They gave us a small piece when we entered; and although
     the grains were not ripe, and it was half-baked and coarse
     grains, we nevertheless had to eat it, or at least not throw
     it away before them, which they would have regarded as a
     great sin, or a great affront. We chewed a little of it with
     long teeth, and managed to hide it so that they did not see
     it.

     "On Wednesday a farmer harnessed his horse to a wagon and
     carried them back to the city. The road led through the
     forest and over very rough and stony hills, making the ride
     quite uncomfortable. Passing again through the little
     village of Breukelen, they crossed the ferry and reached
     home about noon. On Friday they took an exploring tour
     through the island of Manhattan. Their pleasant description
     is worth transcribing.

     "This island is about seven hours distance in length, but it
     is not a full hour broad. The sides are indented with bays,
     coves and creeks. It is almost entirely taken up, that is
     the land is held by private owners, but not half of it is
     cultivated. Much of it is good woodland. The west end, on
     which the city lies, is entirely cleared, for more than an
     hour's distance, though that is the poorest ground; the best
     being on the east and north side. There are many brooks of
     fresh water running through it, pleasant and proper for man
     and beast to drink; as well as agreeable to behold,
     affording cool and pleasant resting places, but especially
     suitable places for the construction of mills, for though
     there is no overflow of water, it can be used.

     "A little east of New Harlaem, there are two ridges of very
     high rocks, with a considerable space between them,
     displaying themselves very majestically, and inviting all
     men to acknowledge in them the grandeur, power and glory of
     the Creator, who has impressed such marks upon them. Between
     them runs the road to Spuyt den Duyvel. The one to the
     north is the most apparent. The south ridge is covered with
     earth on its north side, but it can be seen from the water
     or from the mainland beyond to the south. The soil between
     these ridges is very good, though a little hilly and stony.
     It would be very suitable, in my opinion, for planting
     vineyards, in consequence of its being shut off on both
     sides, from the winds which would most injure them; and it
     is very warm. We found blue grapes along the road, which
     were very good and sweet, and as good as any I have tasted
     in the fatherland.

     "We went from the city, following the Broadway, over the
     valley or the fresh water. Upon both sides of this way there
     were many habitations of negroes, mulattoes and whites. The
     negroes were formerly the slaves of the West India Company.
     But, in consequence of the frequent changes and conquests of
     the country, they have obtained their freedom, and settled
     themselves down where they thought proper, and thus on this
     road, where they have grown enough to live on with their
     families. We left the village called Bowery on the right
     hand, and went through the woods to Harlaem, a tolerably
     large village situated directly opposite the place where the
     northeast creek and the East river come together. It is
     about three hours' journey from New Amsterdam."

From the account which these gentlemen give, the morals of the people certainly do not appear to have been essentially better than now. They passed the night at the house of the sheriff. "This house was constantly filled with people all the time drinking, for the most part, that execrable rum. He had also the best cider we have tasted. Among the crowd we found a person of quality, an Englishman, named Captain Carteret, whose father is in great favor with the king. The king has given his father, Sir George Carteret, the entire government of the lands west of the North river in New Netherland, with power to appoint as governor whom he pleases.

     "This son is a very profligate person. He married a
     merchant's daughter here, and has so lived with his wife
     that her father has been compelled to take her home again.
     He runs about among the farmers and stays where he can find
     most to drink, and sleeps in barns on the straw. If he
     conducted himself properly, he could be, not only governor
     here, but hold higher positions, for he has studied the
     moralities and seems to have been of a good understanding.
     But that is all now drowned. His father, who will not
     acknowledge him as his son, allows him yearly as much only
     as is necessary for him to live on."

Saturday morning they set out from Harlaem village to go to the northern extremity of the island.