Cabul, September 25th, 1839.

“I am just on the eve of re-entering Cabul from a visit to Bamean, a singular place on the other side of the Hindoo-koosh, celebrated for its idols and caves.  It has amply repaid a march of 106 miles and back again.  I never saw a more singular place, and never enjoyed myself more: we crossed several high ridges between 11 and 13,000 feet, but so poor is the flora that I have only added 200 species to my catalogue, now amounting to 1200 species instead of 2,400 as I fully expected.  But I must say I was as much pleased at the acquisition of a genuine Salmo in the Bamean river (which is a tributary of the Oxus,) as at any thing.

“Unfortunately we were so hurried, that I had only one afternoon and that an unfavourable one, for indulging in my fishing propensities: the chief fish seems to come very near the English trout, and so far as I can judge, is not found on this side the Himalaya.  The other fish of these rivers are a fine Schizothorax or Oreinus, allied to the Adoee, a flat-headed Siluroid, a loach, and a small Cyprinus.  This is a singular country, quite unlike any thing I have seen, and as distinct from the Himalaya in its vegetation, etc. as can well be imagined.  Generally it is very barren, and after travelling over so much of the country I have yet seen only three parts of it decently cultivated.  It is reported to be rich in minerals.

“But it will never bear comparison with Hindoostan.  It is however capable of much improvement.  It consists of a succession of barren valleys, divided from each other by barren ridges, and is generally deficient in the great fertilizer of all things—water.  There is scarcely an indigenous tree in the whole country, and generally very few cultivated ones, except about Cabul, although they have poplars and willows well suited to the climate.  It has been subjected to so much misrule that the natives have become indifferent to its improvement, (if they ever felt alive to any such interest.)  The Zoology is very poor, quite at zero.  There is a species of Ibex, an Ovis, and a Capra, which from the frequency of their heads and horns about sacred places and gateways of towns, must be common; but I have never seen more than a portion of one fresh specimen of the sheep.  Furs are brought from the Hindoo-koosh, but are all too mutilated to be of any use, except to a Zoologist with antiquarian eyes: one Jerboa.  Hares are rather common in some parts, and about here there is a Lagomys.  Of birds there are but few, but as the vegetation is chiefly vernal, these creatures may perhaps be abundant.  The game birds are quail, three species of partridge, a huge Ptarmigan?  Pterocles of Loodianah.  The fauna is richest in Saurian reptiles, and of these one might make a very good collection.  I have only seen two snakes, and both are I believe lost.”

                                 Mirzapore: April 26th, 1841.

“Request --- to refrain from abusing compound microscopes.  Why should not compound and simple microscopes each have their merits?  Valentine, who is a great authority, and an unrivalled dissector, says, the simple lens must be suspended.  I only wish I could dissect with a compound microscope: what things might not one get access to.  The simple lens is quite useless with opaque objects; it only does for transmitted light.  Now dissections of opaque objects have been too much neglected.  How odd it is that all improvements are ridiculed at first.

“I enclose a bit of Sphagnam, a curious moss, with curious incomplete spiral cells in the leaves.  I dare say it will bear preservation in Canada balsam.  I have received a new microscope, a queer-looking thing, very portable; one object glass of a quarter inch focus, by Ross; two eye-pieces magnifying linearly 200 to 300 times.  I have put it up, but I am not well enough to decide on its merits.  Now that I have arranged all my things, I am literally frightened at the work I have to do.

“I am quite annoyed at the idea that German artists make better microscopes than English.  I was aware that the lenses were better, but otherwise I imagined that any comparison would be vastly in our favour.  I am curious to know the price, and where to apply for one, as your account makes me quite ashamed of mine.  Who knows what a fine penetrating power of 1100 may not disclose.  I am very much pleased with your idea of anointing cuts with nitrate of silver; this hint I will bear in mind.

“I enclose the first list of fish, No. 2, not that it is of much use.—What nonsense it is to collect without knowledge.

All the above from the Indus, at Shikarpore.

(I send this list as all the specimens are not lost, and some are among the plants.  Most of the species are, I think, distinct, and when they have appeared to me not to be so, I have generally noted it on the spot.

The mountain forms are very distinct, the mouth being under the snout, or head, the intestines long, peritoneum covered with a black pigment.  These forms commence at Dadur, 800 feet above the sea: this stream abounds in rapids.

Gurmab is 1,100 feet.  Quettah, 5,600 feet.  Lora river, 3,600 feet.  Urghundab, 3,600 feet.

These lists may be of some small use compared with Burnes’s collection.  To a certain extent they may be useful as showing the preponderance, etc. of certain forms.  You may rely on my distinctions between Cyprinidæ, Siluridæ, and Percidæ.)

“To-morrow I will send the other list of specimens No. 3, which will I hope reach you; of all the fish in these parts, the Sir-i-Chushme and Cabul river Oreinus travels farthest up.  I have caught it at nearly 11,000 feet in the Helmund river.  Then come loaches, and the beautiful trout-like Opsarion; other Cyprinidæ ascend 2,000 or 3,000 feet, the Mahaseer scarcely more.  Above that, come the genuine mountain forms.

* * * * *

                    Memorandum on return from Afghanistan.

“As I considered on my arrival at Peshawur in December 1839, that a great deal remained to be done, I obtained permission to remain another season in Affghanistan.  I immediately mentioned my wishes of travelling to General Avitabili, who strongly advised me not to attempt leaving Peshawur in any novel direction, as the whole of his district was much disaffected.  Soon afterwards I heard of an expedition being on the point of leaving Jallalabad for Kooner, and I determined on joining it.  I re-traversed the Khybur Pass alone, and arrived at Jallalabad just in time to go in the advance.  I was present at Pushut, 18th January 1840; and on the return of the force I remained behind with Captain Macgregor.  In February 1840 I accompanied Captain Macgregor to Chugur-Serai, and thence to Otipore or Chugur-Serai-Balu on the immediate frontier of Kaffiristan, and through his influence I was enabled to remain there, and to increase my materials in an extremely interesting direction.  I remained about Otipore for some weeks, making arrangements for penetrating into Kaffiristan and little Cashgur, and in daily expectation of being joined by the late Capt. E. Connolly; all my plans, which first seemed to promise success, were completely frustrated by the disturbances which broke out in Bajore, consequent on Meer Alum Khan’s absence at Jallalabad.  Capt. Connolly barely escaped with his life from the hands of the Momauds.  Meer Alum Khan found on his return towards his government that he could not leave Chugur-Serai, and at last, circumstances threatened so much around Otipore and Chugur-Serai, that Meer Alum Khan insisted on my leaving Otipore and on returning with him to Jallalabad.  I did not leave a moment too soon, for shortly after, Syud Hoshin turned Otipore by crossing the hills to the north of Deogul, and very soon possessed himself of Otipore.  Meer Alum and I reached Jallalabad in safety, having been attacked once on the road.

“I remained at Jallalabad a few days, and was driven thence to Khaggah by the necessity of obtaining medical aid.  I reached Khaggah in a high fever, and was confined to my bed for six weeks: during my severe illness, I experienced the greatest kindness and attention from Dr. Thomson and Dr. Andrew Paton, of the H. C. European Regt.

“Early in July I proceeded to Cabul for change of air, and as soon as I recovered a little strength, started to join Lieut. Sturly, who was surveying on the Toorkistan frontier.  I met that Officer at Syghan the day he left to prosecute his surveys, which had been interrupted by the Kamard disturbances: he was recalled to Syghan, in consequence of heavier and more serious disturbance.

“I returned to Cabul, as I found it impossible to proceed beyond Syghan, and then waited with impatience for a season that would enable me to cross the Punjab without great risk to my still debilitated constitution.

“My establishment of collectors consisted of unintelligent Affghans, who were particularly prone to abrupt abscondings, and my supplies of materials and carriage very limited.

“The botanical collection is as extensive as could be expected from the nature of the country and the climate.  It is in excellent order, consisting of about 1500 species, and a great number of duplicates.  This collection has been formed on the principles which have guided me on former travels.  Those principles I conceive to require the collection of every form in numbers, and in various localities, so that the geographical limits of each may be estimated, and the examination be open.  They also require information as to habitat, locality, climate, whether the plants are gregarious or not, and whether they contribute to giving peculiar features to the country.  I do not hesitate to say that this collection contains almost all the plants that existed in flower or fruit along the line of march of the army between Cabul and Syghan, about Chugur-Serai, Otipore, and Pushut, and in the neighbourhood of Khaggah.

“The extent over which it was formed is about 1,600 miles, and on the variety of geographical position a considerable part of its value depends.  If the plants between Cabul and Peshawur are less rich, as my journeys between those cities always occurred at unfavourable seasons, the deficiency has been lessened by my friend Dr. Ritchie.

“The Ornithological portion of the collection, consists of about 350 specimens, is in good order, and contains many objects of interest, valuable for throwing some light on the geographical distribution of birds.

“To the fish of the various tracts I paid considerable attention, but owing to the difficulties of travelling and of climate, the collection has suffered severely.  At Shikarpore I made an extensive collection of the fish of the Indus.  I had collected most of the fish of the river, of the Bolan Pass, of the streams of Quettah, and of the Urghundab, near Candahar, unfortunately I relied too much on the preservative powers of alcohol.  Subsequently I took the additional precaution of preserving skins separately; and it is to these which amount to about 150 specimens, that the collections are chiefly limited.  The collections contain the fish of the Cabul river, between its source near Sir-i-Chushme, and Peshawur, of the Helmund at an altitude of 11,500 feet, of the Bamean river, and of the Chenab, Ravee, and Sutledge.

“This collection is particularly interesting, as showing that while the plants, quadrupeds, and birds of the southern and northern declivities of the Kohi-Baba, the continuation of the Hindoo-koosh, are much alike, yet that a total difference exists in their fish.

“Lord Keane, and Sir Willoughby Cotton, left me in complete possession of my own time, a great kindness due no doubt to the considerate instructions of Lord Auckland, but for which I was not the less grateful.

“I always found Sir Alexander Burnes very considerate and very willing to forward my views, and put me in possession of information.  The late Dr. Lord also showed himself anxious to assist me in my duties, and very kindly asked me to join the Mission to Toorkistan, so suddenly put an end to by a suspected outbreak in Kohistan.

“To Captain Macgregor I was under great obligations during the whole time I continued in his district.  Through his influence I was enabled to remain at the outer borders of Kaffiristan; and that deservedly warm respect which he was held in by all the chiefs, would, I am confident, have gained me access into Kaffiristan, and towards Cashgur, at any less unsettled period.  I have seen Captain Macgregor in the closet and in the field, and I cannot sufficiently express the respect with which I have had cause to regard him in both situations.

“Captain Sanders, of the Bengal Engineers, was always eager to swell my stock of materials, and during periods of occasional indisposition, I relied almost entirely on him.  Captain Sanders had also made for me a collection of plants between Candahar and Herat, which, I regret to say, was nearly entirely destroyed in crossing one of the rivers on that route.

“It is to Dr. Ritchie, of the Bombay Medical Service, the companion of the justly celebrated Major Pottinger, during his return from Herat via Jhomunna, that the Botanical collections are mostly indebted.  Dr. Ritchie not only placed unreservedly at my disposal a very interesting collection made on that journey, but also a larger one made between Peshbolak and Peshawur.  Both these are of considerable value, the one shows that the Affghan forms prevail as far as Herat on both sides of the Paropamisus, the other shows that Affghanistan, even in its hottest parts, has a majority of European forms.  To the contents of these collections, notes of the localities are also added, enhancing their value very considerably.  I may be excused for adding, that Dr. Ritchie is acquainted with route surveying; in this and his knowledge of Botany, he possesses two valuable requisitions of a traveller.

“Dr. Grant, of the Bombay Medical Service, formerly in Medical charge of Dr. Lord’s Mission, liberally presented me with an excellent series of specimens from the valley of Syghan.

“While I am beyond measure indebted for Zoological collections, to Captain Hay, of the European Regiment.”

“The following notes addressed to Emanuel Fernandez, plant collector at Malacca, may perhaps be useful as containing instructions for the collection and transmission of plants and seeds.  They are perhaps worthy of insertion on other grounds, as an example of the painstaking, and patient manner in which Mr. Griffith made his wishes known to the persons employed by him in his pursuits.”

To Emanuel Fernandez.

“I have received the open box of seeds, and the large case of plants, per ‘Tenasserim.’  The Ebool seeds were coming up, the dried plants are in good order, and are of very good kinds.

“Before you put in the palms and fruits with other collections, you should see that they are quite dry, as otherwise they rot and injure the dried plants.  When you send up more fruits, etc. put them into open rattan baskets, so that they may be aired.

“I send a list of palms and rotans wanted very much, and two more glazed cases for seeds: water the earth inside a day before closing the boxes and sending them off to Singapore.  Whenever you get any good seeds, dry them, and put them in a letter, directed to me.  Seeds spoil by being kept, particularly if kept among wet fruits and dried plants.

“If you can get flower-pots in Malacca buy two or three dozen, and whenever you get seeds sow them in a pot, and keep them, until you have enough pots filled to occupy one of the cases, then put mould between the pots, and sow more seeds in this mould, fasten the lid down and send off the box to Singapore.”

                                        May 30th, 1843.

“The cases of plants, etc. have arrived: the fresh plants were nearly all dead.

“You planted them very well, and cleverly, but some how or other the lids of the boxes were nailed down, and so the plants died; because plants will not live without light.

“Some of the Ebool seeds have sprouted, one Lanjoot arrived alive, and also the Pakoo Galowe.

“I will send soon two glazed cases, in which you may put plants as before, and seeds of palms, or any good plants: sow them in the same manner, and three or four days before the cases are despatched water the earth and plants moderately; then screw down the lid, when the plants, if they have rooted in the earth, will not die, because the glass admits light to them.  But to be sure of the plants having rooted, you must keep the cases with you for three weeks, and if any plants are sickly, take them out and put in others.

“I send a list: when your next despatch arrives, I will increase your pay.  If you send plenty of seeds, etc. often, that is once a month or six weeks, I will keep you in my service even if I do not come back to Malacca.

“I also send a box with a large bottle in it of spirits of wine, this is for monkey cups (Nepenthes).  Take the finest ones you can get of all sorts, and put them in the bottle, leaves and all, do not squeeze them into the bottle, then send it to me.”

“I send two empty glazed cases for plants: when these reach you, fill them with moist earth and plant in them ripe fresh seeds of the following palms * * *  You need not wait until you have obtained all, but such only as you can get at once; but remember when you have got ripe seeds of any kind to sow them in the case.  Take care the earth is not too wet.  The seeds you sent, sown in an open box, came up, and we have now six or seven live Ebools, etc.

“Send me up some ripe fruits and seeds of the Epoo, those you sent were not ripe.  If you can get any ripe ones, also sow some with the palm seeds.”

                                  Calcutta: March 26th, 1844.

“When you prepare Rotangs do not cut off the stalk of the leaf close to the stem, but six inches from it, and do not cut off the thorns, but tie all up in mats or gunny bags: at the same time send the leaves of each dried in paper like other plants and flowers, all with names written plainly in English and Malay.

“Send live plants according as you receive boxes for them.”

“Whenever you find ripe fruits or seeds, dry them in the sun, and then send them to the Post Office for despatch in paper bags.  Sow palm seeds in open boxes as you did before, the Ebool having come up.”