Nov. 2nd.—I thought it best to set off, although it was raining heavily. Our course lay in an E. direction up the Karam for about two hours, when it diverged: it thence after passing through some heavy jungle continued up the steep bed of the now dry Dailoom; it next diverged again about 2 P.M., when we ascended a small hill; it continued thence through heavy jungle chiefly bamboo, until we descended in an oblique manner on the Laee-panee, about a mile up which we found our halting place. The whole march occupied, including a few halts, seven hours; and as the pace was pretty good for six full hours, I compute the distance to be about fifteen miles. Hill Flora recommenced in the bamboo jungle; two fine species of Impatiens and several Urticeæ making their appearance; Camellia axillaris and some fine Acanthacea: the best plant was a species of Aristolochea. The latter part of the day was fine, and the elephants with grain from Suddiyah arrived.
Nov. 3rd.—Passed the forenoon in ascending the hill opposite our encampment: it is of no great height, but like all the others very steep. To the N.W. of this has occurred a large slip, but long previous to this time; on it two or three Phæniceous palms may be found. Pandanus still occurs. The hill was barren of Botany, excepting a few ferns towards base.
Nov. 4th.—Left Laee-panee at 9½ A.M., and reached the encampment at 3½ P.M. Our course diverged almost immediately from the last encampment, and we ascended for some time up the bed of a torrent. The first hill we ascended occupied an hour, and the remainder of the day’s journey consisted of ascents and descents along the most difficult path imaginable. All the hills are very steep, and the paths when they wind round these, are very difficult; a slip would cause a dangerous fall. About 1 P.M. we reached two or three houses constituting a village.
From this, one has a fine view of the plains, and of the B. pooter near its exit from the hills: it is much intersected by islets covered with jungle. Leeches are not very numerous. Dundoons or sand flies very annoying. I have gathered plenty of plants, especially ferns. Wallichia continues; Wulfenia obliqua, and a Companula were the best. At our halting place I found the fruits of Sedgwickia in abundance. Passed two or three streams. Found the flowers of a large Loranthus, or rather its very large flowers on the ground. They are eaten by the natives, but the acidity is unpleasant, owing to its being mixed with a bitter; the flowers are two inches long: tubo 4 angulato, basi-coccinescenti, laminis viridibus interstibus carneis, coccineo lineatis præsenti transverse, antheris syngenesis. Sarcocordalis, common.
Nov. 5th.—Left at half-past 8, and reached extensive kheties (cultivated fields) with dispersed houses at about 1 P.M. This place is called Dilling. Our route consisted of the same fatiguing marching: we passed over some hills, from which we had fine views. The first gave us a fine sight of the Patkaye mountains, {31} S.E. of Upper Assam, which reach apparently a great height. The second, of the plains of Assam. The exact summits of all the hills are covered with a coarse spicate Saccharum. On one we met with a Melampyracea. The Botany is improving greatly; two species of Viola, two fine Cyrthandraceæ occurring. I also noticed Sedgwickia again, and got abundance of ferns, a Buddleia, and a fine Amaranthacea. Halted on a cleared ground immediately under the Red mountain so plainly seen from Jingsha. There is now no appearance of water-falls on it, but there are several white spots owing to slips: the brink or brim of this hill is woody, but there is a considerable space covered only with short grass. The strata are inclined at an angle of 45°. I here got two or three fine mosses. All the Mishmees have the idea, that on some hills at least rain is caused by striking trees of a certain size with large stones, some hills are again free from this charm; it was ridiculous to hear them call out not to throw stones whenever we approached one of these rainy hills. The people appear to get dirtier the farther we advance. I saw plenty of snow on two high peaks, and had a peep of the Lohit beyond Brahma Koond. Wallichia continues, as well as Bambusa, Saccharum Megala. The kheties are either of rice or Cynosurus or Zea. Tobacco is not cultivated, but left to take care of itself. Buddleia Neemda and wild plantain continue, the latter is probably a distinct species; leaves subtis glauco niveis. Pandanus continues. The name of the Red mountain before alluded to, is Thu-ma-thaya, the rivulet at its base is Tus-soo-muchee. Tus-soo Dee-ling is the name of the place; a large mountain bearing N.N.E., is Sun-jong-thaya. It is obvious that Dee-ling must be of some extent, as my site does not agree with that of Wilcox. The view to the E. is entirely limited to Thu-ma-thaya, and to the N.N.E., by Sun-jong-thaya; no B. pooter is visible, nor is Ghaloom’s house. The snow collects on the Thu-ma-thaya this month: the clearings for cultivation on the declivities of Thu-ma-thaya are called Chim-bra: the houses, although at great distances from the village, are called Yeu.
Nov. 6th.—We arrived at our halting place after a march of seven hours, over a most difficult and fatiguing road: we skirted throughout the whole time the base of the huge Thu-ma-thaya; I never saw a worse road, if road it may be called—part of it lay over places where a false step or slip would be very dangerous, if not fatal. We came suddenly on the B. pooter; but as the place was not a good one for crossing, we prepared to go a little higher up the stream, and though the distance we had to go was not above 100 yards, yet as the river side was impracticable, it became necessary to ascend and descend by a most difficult path where a slip would have precipitated one into the river sixty or seventy feet below. What rendered this passage most difficult and dangerous, was the jungle which, while it caused you to stoop, at the same time concealed your footing. It is one of the characteristics of Mishmees, that they sooner risk their necks than take the trouble of cutting down underwood.
We have scarcely passed Thu-ma-thaya, so that the distance we have travelled in a direct line from Deeling must be very small. The stream of the Lohit is not forty yards broad, but the bed is about sixty. It has the appearance of great depth, and roars along amidst rocks in some places in fine style. I here picked up some small branches of an elm, very like U. virgata: the tree was too late to reach fruit. I also gathered a fine Acanthacea, and some good ferns. The north bank of the Lohit here has the same structure as the south at the Koond, and is perpendicular. The water of the Lohit is certainly much cooler than any of the mountain streams. Vast blocks of rock, of many sorts, lie strewed on the south side; one in particular is quartzose, remarkable for the indentations on its surface. I here gathered some mosses, and a good Marchantiacea, very nearly allied to Octoskepos, but culiculate. Pandanus still continues, as also Marlea, Wallichia, Caryota, and Pentaptera. Passed several streams, and a pretty fall, the water falling down a cliff almost perpendicular, about 100 feet high. The Mishmees use the fibres and reti of Caryota as an ornament to their baskets, from which it likewise keeps the rain. Wild plantain continues. Our encampment is on a fine bed of sand.
Nov. 7th.—Rain throughout the night at intervals, and sharp cold in the morning; we left at 9 A.M. and arrived at our encampment about 12 P.M. The first part of our march was very difficult, it in fact consisted of crossing a precipice overhanging the Lohit; the difficulty was increased by the slipperiness occasioned by the rain; no one could pass some of the places unless aided by ratans fixed to trees, etc. We came to the Sung river about 12 noon, but were delayed some time in building a bridge. This river appears to me to be in some places fordable, but the Mishmees say that it is not; the water is beautifully clear. The first cane suspended bridge occurs here; I did not fancy it, although I observed the Mishmees cross, the passage taking barely half a minute. Throughout the whole time the Mishmees use their legs and arms, to accelerate or determine their progress; the inclination caused by the weight is slight. I preferred one of our own erection, about 100 yards distant from it. The height is not great over the river, and the width is perhaps thirty yards. The Bourra crossed after some delay; we were then obliged to make two halts: we followed the Sung down to its mouth, which is barely 200 yards: its bed is rocky; at its junction there is a large bay formed, on the N. side of which is a fine sand bank. The Lohit there runs nearly N. and S., and is excessively violent in its course, certainly ten miles an hour. The scenery is pretty, but no hills of great height are seen to any extent. This is the most romantic spot I have seen in my course of travels as yet. We forded the bay about its centre, and encamped on the sand: the path we are to follow is said to be above, and very difficult. We here gathered some fine ferns and a Bleteoid Orchidea. A Gentianacea likewise occurred. The Tapan Gam, on my inquiring, said, that Wilcox passed by the upper path, the Lohit at that time running under the cliff which forms one side of the bay. {33} The course of the river, he says, has since changed by the occurrence of a large slip, principally of mica slate.
Nov. 8th.—The commencement of our march to-day was up a hill, the ascent, as in all the other cases, being very steep. From its summit we could see Dilling in a horizontal distance extremely near. We then proceeded skirting the hill, and descended subsequently to the O. rivulet, which is of no size. We then ascended another considerable height, and found ourselves on the site of Ghaloom’s old dwelling. The situation was delightful; to the N.E., a high range was visible, which is covered with snow, the pines on the lower parts of the ridge standing out, in fine relief. To the N. was a noble peak bare at its summit, on which snow rests during some months, its centre being prettily marked out with numerous patches of cultivation. To the N. again the Tid-ding might be seen foaming along the valleys; the hills are evidently improving in height and magnificence of scenery. We reached this at 12 o’clock, our march having lasted five hours. We thence descended crossing a small stream at the base of the hill, on which Ghaloom’s former house stood, called the Dhaloom Basee.
I thence proceeded over some nasty swampy ground with a few low elevations until we reached Ghaloom’s, which we did about 2 P.M. A small spot was allotted to us some distance from the village, on which we erected our huts. Ghaloom changed his residence to this place, owing to the death of two of his people, which was attributed to the unhealthiness of the former site; but as might be expected from the nature of the place he has chosen, he has suffered very severely from fever since his removal. As soon as our huts were built, Ghaloom and his brother Khosha visited us, preceded by the hind quarter of a pig. Their appearance is somewhat better than the ordinary run of Mishmees, but they are just as dirty. Khosha is a little man, with a mahogany-coloured wrinkled face. Great attention was paid by their attendants to all they said, and Khosha himself is evidently the Demosthenes of the Mishmees. When interrupted, he commanded silence in an authoritative way. Krisong was not present. Khosha declares that Rooling, the Mezhoo chief, is nobody, and that Wilcox gave him his present unknown to them. The acquisitions in Botany consisted of some fine Cyrtandraceæ, a Cymbidium, and some ferns. One of these Cyrtandraceæ is very singular: the runners are long, producing one stem with a very small terminal leaf, and a very large flower. Afterwards this leaf enlarges, becomes a large cordate Begonioid one, bearing from its bosom apparently one or two Siliquæ; Pandanus Bambusa continue. The fine Quercus is common, Megala, Podomolia, Triumfetta, Siegesbeckia. Cynoglossum, Callicarpa, Urena, Rottlera and several other low tropical forms continue. The Cymbidioid has pollena 4, incumbentia postice aliquoties minore, glandula nulla?
Nov. 9th.—Halted. Went to the suspension bridge over the Lohit, which is about 60 yards across, or double the length of the one we crossed on the 7th. The passage by Mishmees takes two, or two minutes and a half, requiring continued exertion the whole time, both by hands and feet, as above described. Both banks are very steep, yet the natives are so confident of safety, that of this bridge only one cane is trustworthy. Bathed in the river, which is very cold and deep, but comparatively quiet.
Nov. 10th.—Went to the Lohit, gathered Cymbidium giganteum, two or three ferns, and a Rafflesia in its several stages. I have not however yet seen the perfectly expanded flower, the natives do not know it, although it must be a sufficiently striking object, the alabastri before expansion are about the size of an orange. Went to Ghaloom’s house, which is of great length, built of bamboos, raised high from the ground, divided into about twelve compartments, and containing 100 men, women, and children.
Nov. 11th.—Left for Khosha Gams; crossed the Lohit on a raft, and left its banks at noon. Followed the river for some distance, and then diverged towards the N.W. and reached Khosha at 3 P.M., the march owing to the heat was very fatiguing. Found very few plants; noticed a flower of a Ternstrœmiacea nearly allied to the genus Camellia, cor. rotat. lacin. reflexis, albis fauce carnea. stam. 00, epipet. anther. erectis-apice dehiscent, and of a large Hibiscus; the Cælogyne of the Koond was also found. Two species of Castaneæ occur in these woods, one with very stout thorns to its cupula, and not eatable fruit; the other has long slender prickles, and its fruit about the size of an acorn, is eatable, and not at all disagreeable. On all the hills of any height with grassy tops Compositæ are among the most striking forms. Areca parva continues, Pentaptera, and Fici continue. Saccharum Megala very abundant and fine. Cupuliferæ are becoming more abundant. The roofs of the houses which are built of bamboo, are covered with the leaves of the Marantaceous genus—capitulis densis lateralibus culmis I-foliosis. Buddleia N’eemda and Callicarpa continue.
Want of means forms the only limit to the number of wives of a Mishmee. A rich man who has at his disposal numerous cattle, etc, will give 20 mithuns; {35} but the wife appears to bring with her slaves, etc. as a return. A poor man will get a wife for a pig. Whatever the number of wives may be, each will have a separate khetee, (field) and each khetee has a separate granary. All the wives live in the same house; in fact, one house forms the village. Theft is punished by a fine inflicted by a meeting of all the Gams; if the fine is not paid, or the offender refuses to pay, he is slain in a general attack. Murder is punished in the same way, but by a heavier fine: adultery against the consent of the husband, or at least elopement, is punished by death; if with the consent of the husband, the delinquent is fined. There appears to be no regular law of succession: the favourite son succeeding without reference to age.
Nov. 12th.—I went out for plants, and descended to the Paeen rivulet, which is of small size: followed up its course some way, and then returned over a low hill to Khosha’s. The guide who was some distance behind, came up with a Rafflesia bud. I returned with him, and saw it to perfection; he likewise succeeded in tracing the roots to a gigantic Cissus, the fruit of which I have before observed is eatable, and not unlike a greengage. I returned home loaded with this undescribed genus: I found likewise a fine Buddleia, and Menispermum, with some rare Compositæ, among which was an arborescent Eupatorium and a gigantic thistle, a Prunus in flower and fruit, and a neat Liparis, Calamus, Tree-fern, Tupistra, Pandanus, were likewise observed, and a beautiful Viburnum, Corol sterilibus, 4 phyllis, foliis niveis carneo venosis: petal fertil calyptratis, deciduis, intus cæruleo tinctis: staminibus cyaneis, ovariis pallide cæruleis, stigmatib. carnosis.
Nov. 13th.—Opposite Khosha’s, or rather his granaries to the E. is a high mountain excessively steep, only partially clothed with trees, and with stunted ones at its summit, which in December and the colder months is covered with snow: this they call Thaya-thro.
Khosha positively refuses to take me any farther into the interior, and Krisong begs that I won’t come and see him. It is obvious that they are under great fear of other tribes. Khosha says, he should be attacked by all the Mishoos or Mizhoos, were he to conduct me any farther now, and that very probably the Lamas would attack him likewise. He says the only chance of success in penetrating to Lama, is to send previously a present of salt, (about a seer) to all the chiefs, and request their leave, without which preparatory donation, they would cut up any messengers he might send. He offers to do this at any time, and to let me know the result. He declined taking me to the Chibong Gam, a few days’ journey up the Diree, although the man is a relation of his own, and a Deboro Mishmee. It is obvious that there is no chance of getting further at present, nor would it be fair even if one could bribe them. He says no reliance whatever is to be placed on Rooling, the Mizhoo who deceived Wilcox, and whom he represents to be an underhand person. I tried to overcome his scruples by assuring him that I only wanted to go as far as Rooling, but he declines taking me. He says I may go any where to the west of this, but to the north he dare not conduct me. I shall therefore go to Premsong to-morrow, and if that is not a favourable place, return forthwith to Ghaloom’s, and thence to Deeling to botanise on Thuma-thaya.
Nov. 14th.—Proceeded to Premsong’s, which we reached in less than two hours. Our march was in a westerly direction across a hill of some elevation: the remainder of it was over kheties and level ground. The plants evidently increase in interest as we advance in the interior, Compositæ and Labiatæ being most numerous. A large tree occurs not uncommonly, which is either a Birch or a Prunus, most probably from the venation of its leaves, the latter; the bark is exactly like that of a Birch. Close to Premsong’s I gathered a Clematis, Valerian and a fine Botrychium, a Carex and a Cuscuta. The mountain on the base of which Premsong’s house is situated, is a very high one; it is the one that is so striking from Ghaloom’s old site: it is named Laimplan-thaya; its summit, which is a high peak, is very rugged, partially clothed with vegetation, in which, as in all the others of the same height autumnal tints are very distinct. Thai-ka-thaya is a smaller peak to the S.S.W. of Premsong’s house. One of my Mishmee Dowaniers tells me that the Mishmee (Coptis) teeta Khosha gave me last evening, is cultivated near his native place; its flower buds are just forming and are enclosed in ovate concave squamæ. The leaves are of a lively green, not unlike those of some ferns, but at once to be distinguished by the venation; it is very evident that the Mishmees know nothing about the period of its flowering, as they told me it flowered in the rains, at the same time as the dhak flowers in Assam; the radicles are numerous, tawny yellowish, the rhizomata are rugged tortuous, the bark and pith are of yellow orange colour, the woody system gamboge: this is the same in the petioles: it tinges the saliva yellow. It is a pure intense bitter of some permanence, but without aroma: it is dried over the fire, the drying being repeated three times. Judging from it in its fresh state, the test of its being recently and well dried is the permanence of the colors. The Bee flowers during the rains: its flower, (on dit) is white and small; they pretend that it is very dangerous to touch, causing great irritation; both Coptis teeta, and Bee, are found on high hills on which there is now snow; one of them, the Ummpanee or Moochee, is accessible from hence in three days.
The Mishmee name for the Teeta, is Yoatzhee; of Bee, Th’wee; Ghe-on is the Mishmee name for the smelling root, which the Assamese call Gertheon. The smell of this is a compound of Valeriana and Pastinaca; it is decidedly aromatic, and not at all disagreeable, it is white inside and abounds in pith, but has scarcely any taste.
Yesterday evening I visited Khosha’s house, which is of immense length, and considerably longer, though not so high from the ground as Ghaloom’s: it is divided into upwards of twenty apartments, on the right hand side of the passage are ranged the skulls of the cattle Khosha has killed, including deer and pigs; on the other side are the domestic utensils, the centre of the floor is occupied by a square earthen space for fire-place: the bamboos, of which the floor is composed being cut away. From the centre of each room over the fire-place, hangs a square ratan sort of tray, from which they hang their meat or any thing requiring smoke; their cooking utensils are, I believe, confined to one square stone vessel, which appears to answer its purpose remarkably well. The women appear to have no shame; they expose their breasts openly, which from their dirty habits by no means correspond with the exalted character of the sex. On hills to the N.E. of Khosha’s first residence, forests are very visible, descending far down the sides.
On an open spot a little distance from Premsong’s, there is a fine view of the course of the Lohit, and of the more remote (now) snowy ranges. The hills beyond this exactly answer to Wilcox’s description, being very high, and all descending as it were unbroken to the Lohit.
Went out for about two hours over a tolerably level portion of the hill, covered with Artemesia; found abundance of interesting plants, Crawfurdia campanulacea, a Clematis, Acer, Prunus, Camellia axillaris, Cyathea, Myrica, Rhus, Sedgwickia, Polygala, Galium: and a beautiful very fragrant climbing Composita.
Great part of the side of the hill is covered with a small hard bamboo, which forms excellent walking sticks. An Urticea foliis peltatis, was among the novelties. The Paeen Panee forms the nearest ravine. The Polygonum, paniculis densissimis, is a certain indication of some elevation. I observed Calamus, and Torenia asiatica. There is likewise a large Mimoseous plant, which we found in fruit.
Nov. 15th.—Spent the greater part of the day attempting to reach the summit of Laim-planj-thaya, but my guide did not know the way. We ascended for upwards of four hours, slowly of course, but were still a long way from its summit. The face of the mountain is entirely occupied by woods, with but little underwood. Found abundance of plants, chiefly ferns, only saw 4 Orchideæ, of which 2 were in flower. The novelties were a Polygonatum, Camellia, and Quercus lamellata.
I observed no less than 5 Araliaceæ, of which I succeeded in getting 4: an Acer, probably that from Brahma Koond: and several incertæ. Near Premsong’s the varnish tree was shewn to me, it is obviously a species of Rhus. The Assamese name of the varnish plant is Ahametta Gas. I took specimens of it in fruit.
They obtain the juice by ringing, and the only two specimens I observed were evidently well drained: no preparation is required for the varnish; and it is applied one day, the next day is hard; it has a fine polish, and is of an intense black. It is the same probably with two small trees I had previously seen in Capt. Charlton’s garden at Suddyah. Kydia continues; a fine Palm, caudex 8-10-pedali; it probably belongs to the genus Wallichia? Camellia is only found towards the top; the Polygonatum also does not descend far. I saw also species of an undescribed Bucklandia, likewise one specimen which had been damaged: the capituli pluriflori. Towards the middle a small bamboo becomes plentiful; the lower joints, from which no branches proceed, are armed with a verticillus of spines. I did not observe Pandanus, but it is used for constructing large mats: Megala continues, but not up the hill.
Nov. 16th.—Attempted to ascend Laim-planj-thaya by the Paeen rivulet which proceeds from the centre, but after proceeding about half an hour we found our progress effectually stopped by a water-fall, the sides of the stream being so precipitous as to render all idea of clambering over, or proceeding round ridiculous. Gathered two or three rare ferns, and a pretty Lobelia. On our return through the open grassy parts near Premsong’s, we found a fine Choripetalum and Crawfurdia campanulacea, beautifully in flower; the flower is rose-coloured. Anthistiria arundinacea, the same Sambucus found at Suddya, Solanum 10 dentatum, a Kydia and Torenia continue.
Nov. 17th.—Left and returned to Khosha’s, as we were all out of rice, and it was impossible to get anything in Premsong’s absence. The march on return occupied us about two hours, but the path was so excessively slippery, owing to the grass not being cut away on either side and to the dry weather and heat, that our progress was very slow. Noticed Lactuca exalata and a Rottlera on the road; more snow has fallen on the hills E.N.E. The descent on returning, owing to the slippery state of the roads, was more fatiguing than the ascent. Hedychium angustifolium I also observed on the road.
I have as yet observed the following grains used by the Mishmees. 1st, Oriza, rice; variety of this called Ahoo Da; 2nd, a species of Eleusine, Bobosa; 3rd, Zea Mays, Gorm dan; 4th, Panicum Panicula nutanti, densa clavata. 5th, Konee, Chenapodium sp. panicula simili.
The Mishmee names are as follow: Dan-khai rice; khai hoo, bobosa, Mdo.-zea, or Maize, Ma-bon-konee-yo Chenopodium; Thenna, a kind of Polygonum; Hubra-Aloo, Ghee-kuchoo-shoom, Sweet potato; Gaihwan, Plantain; Puhee Dhoonhwa, Tobacco. They likewise cultivate Sesamum.
Nov. 18th.—Found more of the Rafflesiacea on low hills along the Paeen; it was attached to the roots of the same species of Cissus, on which it was found before. {40} I also gathered a Euonymus and a fine Engelhardtia. The hairs of the fruits of Engelhardtia create a disagreeable itching. All the Mishmees decline shewing me the road a foot in advance of this place. I tried every way I could think of, to overcome their objections, but to no purpose. They have so little regard for truth, that one cannot rely much on what they say: I begin to think that it is all owing to the Tapan Gam, who I suspected was insincere in his professions.
Nov. 19th.—Yesterday evening Premsong arrived, he is a man about 35, the best looking of all the Gams: but has rather a cunning Jewish face. The brandy I gave him made him at first wonderfully obliging, for he seemed disposed to enter into my views. This morning however he came with Khosha and Tapan, by whom it was at once obvious that he has been overruled; not only will he not take me to the Lama Dais (plains,) but he won’t even shew me the road to Truesong’s, a Digaroo, whose village is only distant about five days’ journey. Premsong I know wishes to go, induced by the promise of 200 Rs. but he is afraid of incurring the displeasure of Khosha, etc. I shall therefore return towards Deeling, and devote a few days to botanising on Thuma-thaya.
Nov. 20th.—Returned to Ghaloom’s: gathered the Martynia, finely in flower, and observed the Rafflesiacea along the banks of the Lohit.
Nov. 21st.—Halted at Ghaloom’s, the Rafflesiacea is found all about, anth. bilocular, apice poro-gemino dehiscent, pollen simplex, materie viscosa cohærenti, ovula antitropa, tegumento unico. Made every arrangement with Premsong. According to this Gam we are to go up the Diree, and then cross over high mountains, leaving the Lohit entirely. He says the Lamas wear trowsers, socks and shoes, and that they dress their hair a la mode Chinoise; their houses are built on posts, and raised from the ground: they erect forts like the Chinese, and have plenty of fire-locks. They have also abundance of cattle, consisting of about seven kinds, but no Mithuns; and three sorts of Horses, which alone they use as beasts of burden. Their staple food is Ahoodan. The Mithun of the Mishmees appears to me intermediate to a certain degree between the Bison and the wild Bull; their head is very fine, and as well as the horns that of a Bull, but their neck and body have, so to say, the same awkward conformation as those of the buffalo. I have not seen a large living one; the largest head I saw was three feet from tip to tip of the horns, the diameter of the forehead being probably about one-third of the above.
Nov. 22nd.—Returned to Loong Mockh. I cannot reconcile Wilcox’s description of Ghaloom’s old site with the reality, because the scenery is decidedly fine, embracing the Tidding, and the (in comparison with the near surrounding hills) gigantic Laim-planj-thaya, which from this presents the appearance of a vast cone with a peaked summit. Premsong’s village is obviously at a considerable elevation. Found another Acrostichum, a Bolbophyllum, a rare Aristolochia foliis palmatis, 7 lobis, subtus glaucis; sapor peracerbus, floribus siphonicis. The Huttaya I have not seen: it occurs at a greater distance in the mountains than I have been. In addition to the plants I have gathered, Asplenium nidus it very common. Tradescantia and Camelina both occur; Ricinus also occurs, the Mishmees do not however put it to any use; Melica latifolia is common on some of the hills. Anthistiria arundinacea occurs in abundance. Likewise a small Areca and Chloranthus.
It is at Ghaloom’s old site that these hills commence putting on an interesting appearance, those previously seen, excepting however Thuma-thaya, being entirely covered with tree jungle; but beyond this site, the lower spaces unoccupied by jungle become much more numerous. The Mishmee word for bitter, is Khar. Query—why should not the name of the plant Coptis teeta, be changed to Coptis amara, although the species of the genus Coptis are probably all bitter? Sauraussa and Bombax both occur at Ghaloom’s, as well as Pentaptera; Sesamum is used for oil.
I should have mentioned the top of the hill, surmounted in going immediately from Loong Panee towards Ghaloom’s, is occupied almost entirely by a species of Fraxinus.
On my arrival at Ghaloom’s on the 20th, I found that the coolies had played me the same trick as they had done previously, though not to such an extent. Instead of each man having 20 days’ provisions, scarcely one had more than 5 or 6: as they had 20 days’ given them in addition to that they would require on the road, it is obvious they must have thrown much away. Were all the Gams disposed to take one to Lama, it could not be done with Assamese coolies and, above all, Seerings or Ahooms are the very worst; and although often good sized men, they are very deficient in strength. Nagas and Mishmees are the best, then Kamptees.
I gave before leaving a packet of salt to Premsong, according I suppose to their own custom of proceeding. Yesterday he went to Roomling, Krisong’s eldest son, and gained his consent. I mention this to shew how active he is. He is a friend of the Dupha’s, {42} and to my surprise, told me he saw Capt. Hannay at Hookhoom, who gave him a jacket, and tried to induce him to shew him the road to Suddiya. He is certainly the best of all the Gams, and appears to be very liberal.
Nov. 23rd.—Arrived at Deeling after a tedious march of 8 hours: we did not traverse the two cliffs near the Lohit, but pursued a longer, but more commodious cattle path: our Mishmees, however, preferred the shorter one. Gathered Sabia, Martynioidea, Alsophila, Menispermum at Paeen in fine flower. At Ghaloom’s old site a large Euphorbia fol obovatis, ramis 4 angulato-alatis occurs, and Cymbydium giganteum in fine flower. En route hither I noticed the following; Bauhinia, Hoya, Urtica gigas, Mucuna, Curculigo, Panax, foliis supra-decompositis, Dalbergia, Laurus, Abroma, Lactuca exaltata, Uncaria, Siegesbeckia, Megala, Podo-Molee, and a species subscandent of bamboo, internodiis vix cylindricis, gracilibus; this is of great use where it occurs, in assisting one’s ascent and descent.
Nov. 24th.—Left about 11 for Thuma-thaya: we first descended the Dissoo ravine, then up a very steep hill, the top of which was cultivated, then descended and crossed another stream, the remainder of our march consisting almost entirely of an uninterrupted steep ascent: during our progress we gained partial views of the Plains and the Naga Hills, but on crossing a high ridge on which I observed Betula Populus? Rhododendrum arboreum, the view to the East and West was very fine. That to the W. embracing the greater part of the plains about Suddiya and the Abor Hills, stretching along to S.W. the more distant Naga Hills. The Lohit could be traced for an immense way, the Dihong, Dibong, Digaroo, Dihing were all partially visible. To the N.E. Thegri-thaya was finely seen, then some rugged peaks among which Laim-planj was conspicuous. It embraced the course of the Lohit, at least its right bank, ridge surmounting ridge: the loftier ones tipped with snow; and lastly it was closed by a huge wall, all covered with snow, especially its peaks, stretching away to the N. From this we descended to Yen, where, as usual, I took up my quarters in a granary. During the latter portion of the journey, I gathered a Passiflora? Lobelia two species, a Scitaminea, Spiræa, and a curious aromatic plant, pedunculis bracteæ adnatis, bracteis, coloratis, petal videis.
Codonopsis, etc. Dicksonia, stipitibus atris 3 canaliculatis, frondibus amplis, 10 pedalibus; in fine fructification; this is the same with the Manmoo plant. I observed likewise an arborescent Sambucus, a Bonnaya, a huge Begonia: Coix was seen cultivated.
Nov. 25th.—Spent the day in botanising. Gathered Adamia, some fine ferns, a bamboo, spiculis dense congestis, bracteis scariosis interspersis, and Schizosfachyum, Nees ab E. etc.
Another and much finer species of the Fumariaceous genus, I found on Laim-planj, Deutzia, a rare Quercus, a fine species of Antonia, (Br.) in fruit, a Bartramia, Trematodon, Neckera, etc., noticed a fruit something similar to that of Combretum, allis 2 maximis, 2 minimis: cotyledonibus hæmisphæricis.
Saurauja, Prunus: 3 species of Aralia, Castanea, Quercus, etc. A species of Panicum is here cultivated; the Assamese know it by the name Cheena, 3 species of Polygonatum, including that from Laim-planj, one foliis carnosis oppositis. 2 species of Begonia, making altogether six. The Amaranthacea of Deeling is here found extensively, it often assumes the form of a climber of considerable size. Musa farinosa grows to a great size, 20 to 25 feet. Bambusa in flower has stems about two inches in diameter. Sterculia flowers were observed on the ground. In the afternoon it rained slightly. This is the coldest place I have visited on these hills: in the evening and earlier parts of the night there is a very cold draught down Thuma-thaya.
The Anthistiria found on the more elevated portions of these hills, is probably different from that of the plains. Urticea are here found in abundance.
Nov. 26th.—This morning the atmosphere being beautifully transparent, very high land plentifully sprinkled with snow was visible to the N.W. by W., and to the N.W. a slight peep of the Himalayas was gained. Started at 9, and commenced the ascent; we arrived at our halting place at 11½. The greater part of the march was a steep ascent through dry woods, the ground being very slippery owing to the leaves. Bucklandia occurs in abundance and of a large size, and attains a much greater height than Sedgwickia: found many interesting plants and a small Conifera, probably an Araucaria or a Taxus.
I continued the ascent until about 12, but the scene had totally changed; the whole face of the mountain on the S. side being entirely destitute of trees, and in many places quite naked. The ascent was not very difficult, and occupied a little more than an hour. This acclivity is chiefly occupied by Graminea, all past flowering, all adhering very firmly to the rock, which is quartzose and greyish blue outside, excessively angular: Gentianeæ 2: a beautiful Campanula, Hypericum, Viburnum, Spiræa, Bryum Neckera, Pteris, Scabiosa, some Compositæ, one or two Vaccinioidea, and a curious shrubby Rubiacea evidently a Serissa, were observed. The top, which represents a ridge, is partially wooded, the trees being the continuation or rather termination of the jungle that covers the whole northern face of the mountain. Here I saw Bucklandia, a Pomacea, Crawfurdia, Deutzia, Cynaroidea, Viburna 2, some ferns. Brachymeum, Neckera, Lichens several: a Caryophyllea and a Berberis.
All these were somewhat stunted. The various views were beautiful, embracing a complete panorama, but unfortunately obscured towards Lama by trees. The Lohit was seen extensively from the Koond to Ghaloom’s, and to the plains to an immense distance. The whole range of Abor Hills and a great portion of the Naga, some of which appeared very high, were likewise seen: to the S.E. high ridges not far distant and covered with snow, limited the view; slight snow was visible on the peak seen from Suddiya. The descent was very tedious owing to the excessive slipperiness of the grass: it was dangerous, because a slip would have frequently dashed you to pieces, and in all cases would have hurt one severely.
Nov. 27th.—Descended to Yen: near our halting place we gathered a fine Pomacea arborea in fruit: a Symplocos, and observed Wallichioideæ and Calamus. The plants of the greatest interest gathered were an Acer, an Epilobium, a Hoya grandiflora, Eurya, Hypericum, a fine Arundo, Bucklandia: Cotoneaster microphylla, a Sabia, Coriaria, Abelia? a rare Dipodous Orchidea of the same genus as a dwarf plant of the Cossiya Hills. Rhododendron, scandesent Eleodendron.
The ascent for the greater part is a steep wooded ridge; the first change indicated or induced by elevation is the diminution of the size in the trees, and the frequent occurrence of a Betulus? out of flower. Proceeding onward one comes to a ridge, the S.E. declivity of which is nearly naked, the opposite being wooded with shrubs, Viburnum, Conaria, Mespilus, Pomacea, Rhododendron, Rubiacea Serissa, Cupulifera and some Compositæ occur. Then Arbutus Vaccinium; Nardus: Filix cano-tomentosa, Lycopodium; Dicranum atratum; one or two Hypna, a Bryum, and Neckera fusca. Descending slightly from thence the ridge is observed to be wooded on both sides; it is at the termination of this that we halted. The ascent is continued up a rock, and the whole of the mountain is, excepting the ravines, covered with Graminea, Cyperacea, Filix cano-tomentosa, etc. but the Ericoidea are not so fine. The grasses of the summit are two Andropogons: an Arundo Festucoidea, Panicum, Isachne, Nardus ceasing below, it is towards this that Crepis? and Campanula are common.
The Ceratostemmata are found towards the summit, none descend any distance, except one of Roxburgh’s; they are all generally epiphytes. Orchidea become more common towards the halting place; beyond this I observed only two past flowering, one Habenaria, and a Malaxidea; the others are two Cælogyne, a Dipodious Orchidea, labelli ungue sigmoideo very common, a Bolbophyllum, and a few ditto epiphytes out of flower, one terrestrial Bletioidea is common in some places. At our halting place, I observed an arborescent Araliacea, a Cissus, an Acanthacea and a Laurinea. A little below, Pandanus occurs here and there, and attains a large size, the largest in fact I have ever seen. Castanea occurs about half way up, it is that species with rigid compound spines to the cupula. I gathered also a fine Geastrum, but the specimens are lost. Bucklandia occurs extensively; it is a distinct species owing to its many flowered capitula; Sedgwickia comes into play towards Yen, where Bucklandia appears to become scarce: a large Vitex floribus roseo-purpureis is the most conspicuous tree of all, it ceases towards the summit; Cyathea I observed only above half way. Camellia axillaris occurs below, but I missed the Laim-planj plant. I may here observe that almost all plants with red flowers, at least in this quarter, are acid: the Assamese always appear to expect this, the proofs are Loranthus, Ceratostemma, and Begonia, in which red is generally a predominant colour.
Antrophyllum I noticed about Yen; towards Yen, I diverged from the path to visit the place whence the stones are procured, which the Mishmees use as flints for striking lights: this stone is found on the S. Western face of the mountain: the stones or noduli are frequently sub-crystalline, and are imbedded in a sort of micaceous frangible rock: they are very common, of very different sizes, with glassy fracture; the best are hard; the bad easily frangible, their weight is great. The inclination of this bed is considerable; overlying it at an inclination of 45°, is the grey quartzose rock which forms the chief part, and perhaps nearly the whole, of the mountain. The Mishmee name for the noduli is Mpladung.
In the jungle at Yen occurs a huge Palm evidently Caryota, foliis maximis supra decompositis; the diameter of the trunk is 1½ to 2 feet. It is said to die after flowering: the natives use the central lax structures as food. The Yen Gam promises to send me specimens to-morrow. The Palms I have hitherto seen are Wallichia, one or two Calami: Wallichioidia trunco 5-10 pedali, and a Phænicoidea, but this I only saw at the foot of the mountains near Laee Panee, and the small Areca common about Negrogam. The name of the large Palm in Assamese is Bura Sawar. All the plants common to these and the Cossiya mountains, with one or two exceptions, flower much earlier here, those being all past flowering which I gathered in flower on the Cossiya hills in November last. This is owing to the greater cold, and the consequent necessity for the plants flowering at an earlier and warmer period.
A species of ruminant, or, according to the native account, a species of Pachydermata called the Gan Pohoo, occurs on Thuma-thaya. At the summit of the mountain the ground was in one place rooted up, the Mishmees said, by this animal, which they describe as a large Hog, but which I should rather take to be a kind of Deer.
Nov. 28th.—Returned to Deeling. At the commencement of the principal descent we gathered Betula and another Cupulifera, both moderately sized trees. Anthestina arundinacea, is about this place very common, and an Andropogon, Culmis ramosis which I had previously brought from the Abor hills. About half way down by a present of kanee (opium), I succeeded in getting the arborescent vitex, which is the most striking tree of all when in flower. Lost sight altogether of Bucklandia, nor did I observe Sedgwickia. Gathered at the foot of Thuma-thaya a Cælogyne in flower, allied to C. Gardneriana; Alsophila is common towards the base.
In the evening the Yen Gam came up according to his promise with the gigantic Palm, with male inflorescence, it is a Caryota; he likewise brought Sarcocordalis, Rafflesiacea, and a curious pubescent Piper. He also added the female flowers of another Palm, which, according to him, is another species of Sawar, or Caryota: the inflorescence is of an orange yellow. A tree with the habit of Pterospermum occurs on Thuma-thaya, low down Habenaria uniflora on rocks in the Dirsoo Panee, or river; Kydia occurs about Yen, but not higher.
Nov. 29th.—Reached Laee Panee after a march of five hours; and without Assamese coolies, it might be done in three. I noticed below Deeling, but still at a considerable elevation, Crawfurdia campanu lacea, Adamea, Engelhardtia, Vitex speciosa, and Magnolia in the order in which they are thus given, Quercus, cupulis echinatis occurs comparatively low down, Castanea ferox still lower, Dracæna comes into view towards the base. At the village first reached in the ascent there is a Meliaceous Azedarach looking tree.
At our old halting place, and which is near Deeling, another Ahum-metta Ghas was shewn me. This attains, I am told, a large size: it is not very unlike in habit a Melanorrhæa, and its young leaves are tinged with red, the mature ones are coriaceous. I have not seen it in flower; the juice, at least from small branches, is not very abundant, and at first is of a whitish colour; it is, on dit, after drying that it assumes the black tint; at any rate it is excessively acrid, for one of my servants who cut it incautiously, had his face spoilt for a time: the swelling even after four days had elapsed was considerable. With this as well as the Rhus they dye the strings of the simple fibres of Sawar, which they all wear below the knee: if not properly dried these strings cause some inflammation: the strings are ornamental, light, and when worn in small numbers graceful, but when dozens are employed, and all the upper ones loose, they deform the figure much; some of the women, perhaps anxious to restrain the protuberance of their calves, tie two or three lightly across the calf.
At Nohun, near Deeling, Cocoloba aculeata, baccis cyaneis occurs here the same as at Mumbree in the Cossiya hills, and at Suddiya.
Nov. 30th.—Halted. Put all the grain into the Tapan Gam’s hands, amounting to 60 maunds. In the evening received as a present a long sword from Premsong. Found a fine Impatiens and a shrub coming into flower, Calyce æstiv. valvato? Stamen 4, connectivo ultra antheras longe producto, ovarium adnatum, foliis oppositis, exstipulatis. Meyenia coccinea, finely in flower. An arborescent Urticea (Bæhmeria?) foliis subtus candidis is common.
Dec. 1st.—Reached the Tapan Gam’s after a sharp march of four hours. We are not yet quite at the foot of the hills. Gathered en route 4 new Acanthaceæ, not previously met with on this trip, among which is a beautiful Eranthemum. At Laee Panee one of my people brought me a fine Aristolochia, very nearly allied to that from Ghaloom’s, but at once distinct by its ferruginous pubescence, Antrophyum, and a Polypodium not before met with were among the acquisitions. The Tapan Gam has behaved very handsomely for a Mishmee, having killed a hog, and given five kuchoos of beautiful rice, and feasted my people. Found two snakes, which inhabit the inside of bamboos. Color superne brunneo-cinereus, margines squamarum nigri, gula nigra, fascicula subtus antea alba, postice lutescens.
Noticed Jenkinsia near Laee Panee, and some gigantic specimens of Pentaptera, the Hool-look of the Assamese, the timber of which is used for large canoes; and Lagerstræmia grandiflora occurs on the banks of the Kussin Panee.
Revisits the Tea Localities in the Singphoo and Muttack Districts, Upper Assam.
Dec. 2nd.—Returned to Jingsha via Kussin Panee, or river, and Karam Panee, the march being a tolerably easy one. Found along the steep banks of the former a fine Meniscium, frondibus 6-8 pedalibus, and an arborescent Polypodium, caudice 12-15 pedali, partibus novellis densissime ferrugineo-tomentosis; frondibus subtus glauco-albidis. The caudex is altogether similar in structure to that of Alsophyla, equally furnished with strong black bristly radicles towards its base.
Dec. 3rd.—Left for Husa Gam’s about 9, and arrived at the village which is on the Kampai of the Singfos, Tup-pai of the Mishmees about 4½ P.M. The first part of our march was to the E. up the Karam, we then traversed for a long way heavy jungle in a S. direction, and then came on the dry bed of the Kampai, up which we ascended to the village. Found a Ruellioidea, Cyananthus, mihi. Oom of the Assamese, with which the Kamptees dye their black blue cloths. Noticed an arborescent Araliacea inermis, foliis supra decomposita; panicule patentissima. The Husa Gam treated us very handsomely forming a striking contrast with the Mishmees; he declares positively that no tea exists in this direction; I shall therefore proceed direct from Luttora to Beesa. Roxburghia occurred on the route. The village is on the left bank of the river: the direction from Jingsha’s being about N.W.
Dec. 4th.—Reached Luttora after an easy march of three hours and a half, for the most part along an excellent path. We passed the following villages en route Chibong, Wakon, Mtarm, and Mcyompsan: three of which are of some size; none however so large as Nsas. This is the largest Singfo village I have seen, and probably contains 400 people. This village and all the others are situated on high ground, the ascent from the Kampai being probably 70 feet. The country consists of level, apparently good soil, with here and there broadish ravines in which bamboos are abundant. Cultivation is common, and of considerable extent. On a similar eminence is situate Luttora, and it has been well chosen, for on both sides that I approached it, the ascent is steep and capable of being easily defended; the south side is bounded by the Ponlong Panee, which runs into the Tenga Panee. If any ascent it is an easy one, and must be to the westward; to the north, there is a small stream, but neither this, Ponlong or Tenga are any thing but mere rills, which may be easily leaped over in the dry seasons. Our route from Nsas was to the W. of south. No stockades appear to exist in this quarter.
Luttora is not so large as Nsas; formerly the Luttora Gam was the chief of all this soil, but he has been partly deserted by two bodies of men who have respectively chosen Nsas and Htan-tsantan.
The Gam visited me in the evening at our halting place on the Ponlong; he is a large, coarse, heavy-looking man, nearly blind, and excessively dirty. He proposed of himself to me, to become the Company’s ryott in accordance with the wish, he said, of the Dupha Gam; but when I told him he ought to send or go to the Suddiya Sahib, or Political Agent, he said he wanted to see the Dupha first: he was accompanied by a very loquacious oldish man, who had just returned from Hook-hoom, to which place he had gone with the Dupha. They left apparently not much pleased at my being empty handed.
Dec. 5th.—Left at 6½, reached the Muttack Panee about 8½, having come through much heavy bamboo jungle; we then ascended the dry bed of the Muttack, and ascended after some time the Minaboom. This was most tedious, as we continued along the ridge for two hours; we then commenced our descent, but did not reach the Meera Panee much before 1 P.M. Down this we came here, and then along some curious chasms in the sandstone, and encamped about 3. The difference of soil between the Minaboom and the Mishmee hills is most obvious; on the N.E. declivity there is much soil; but on the opposite side little but rounded stones which supply the place of soil, and in places we saw nothing but sandstone conglomerate? or indurated soil with many boulders imbedded in it, and a blackish greasy clay slate; while on the Mishmees, on the contrary, all is rock, hard and harsh to the touch; or where loose stones do occur on the face of the hills, they are all angular. The vegetation of sandstone is likewise far more varied; and that of the Meera Panee district, abounds in ferns, among which is Polypodium Wallichianum. The Tree-fern of Kujing I observed in the Muttack, Sedgwickia in Minaboom, two Magnoliaceæ, one bracteis persistent, induratis, and a Dipterocarpus. The chief vegetation of the ridge consists of grasses, among which bamboo holds a conspicuous place. A Begonia was common along the Muttack. The Meera Panee would well repay a halt of two or three days.
At our halting place we met four Burmese, despatched by the Maum, {51} who has arrived at Beesa on a visit to the Luttora Gam.
Dec. 6th.—Reached Beesa after a sharp march of six hours. Our course lay at first down the Meera Panee; here I observed more of the Polypodium Wallichianum, which is common throughout the Singfo hill country, and appears to be used as grog, at least the juice of the petioles. We then diverged to the westward through heavy jungle, and the remainder of our march consisted of uninteresting dense jungle, water-courses, and excessively low places. Observed Sabia in some of the jungles; the only interesting plants gathered were an Impatiens and two or three Acanthaceæ. About 2½ P.M. we came on the Noa Dihing, which is now nearly dry, the water having flowed into the Kamroop. No boat, not even a dak boat, can come near Beesa. It is obvious that this river here never presented any depth, both banks being very low; the bed consists of small hard boulders.
Dec. 7th, 8th.—Halted at Beesa.
Dec. 9th.—Started for the Naga village, at some distance, and
Dec. 10th.—Left for Kujoo or Khoonlong, which we reached about 1, after a march of five hours. At 10, we arrived at Dhoompsan or Thoompsa, a large village with extensive cultivation. The remainder of our march was through heavy jungle, many parts of which were very low, and crowded with a fierce Calamus. The higher parts abound in a Dipterocarpus, and two Castaneæ. I found many fine ferns, all of which however we collected last year. Chrysobaphus, not uncommon. Apostasia rare.
Dec. 11th.—Visited the tea in the old locality at Nigroo. No steps have been taken towards clearing the jungles, except perhaps of tea. The Gam tells me, that the order for clearing was given to Shroo, Dompshan, and Kumongyon, Gams of three villages near the spot. Noticed Dicksonia en route, so that we must have passed it last year. Æsculus also occurs here.
Dec. 12th.—Arrived at Kugoodoo after an easy march of two hours and a half. At 12, went to see the tea which lies to the S.S.W. of the village, and about ten minutes’ walk to the W. of the path leading to Negrogam, and which for the most part runs along an old bund road. After diverging from this road we passed through some low jungle, which is always characterised by Calamus Zalaccoideus; and then after traversing for a short time some rather higher ground, came on the tea. This patch is never under water; there is no peculiarity of vegetation connected with it. It runs about N. and S. for perhaps 150 yards by 40 to 50 in breadth. The Gam had cleared the jungle of all, except the larger trees and the low herbaceous underwood, so that a coup d’œil was at once obtained, and gave sufficient evidence of the abundance of the plants, many of which were of considerable size, and all bore evidence of having been mutilated. They were for the most part loaded with flowers, and are the finest I have seen in the Singfo country. Young buds were very common, nor can I reconcile this with the statement made by the Gam, that no young leaves will be obtainable for four months. From the clearing, the plants are exposed to moderate sun; it is perhaps to this that the great abundance of flowers is to be attributed. The soil, now quite dry at the surface, is of a cinereous grey; about a foot below it is brown, which passes, as you proceed, into deeper yellow; about four feet deep, it passes into sand. No ravines exist, and mounds only do about a few of the larger trees. The soil as usual is light, friable, easily reduced to powder, and has a very slight tendency to stiffness.
Dec. 13th.—Left for the Muttack: our course lay through dense jungle, principally of bamboo, and along the paths of wild elephants; these beasts are here very common. We halted after a march of seven hours on a small bank of the Deboro; the only plant of interest was my Cyananthus in flower.
Dec. 14th.—Continued through similar jungle along the Deboro; bamboo more frequent. About 2 P.M. we left the undulating hillocks, and the jungle became more open. At 4, we reached Muttack, but had still to traverse a considerable distance before we halted at Kolea Panee. We crossed the Deboro en route; no particular plant was met with. I shot two large serpents, Pythons; one 8, and the other 10 feet long. The Kolea Panee is of some width, but is fordable.
Dec. 15th.—After marching for about seven hours, halted at a small village. The country passed over was, like most of this part of Muttack, open, consisting of a rather high plain covered with grasses, T. sperata, Saccharum, and Erianthus, with here and there very swampy ravines; the soil is almost entirely sandy, light at the surface; the yellow tint increasing with the depth, which is considerable. Crossed the Deboro by a rude wooden bridge. I found no particular plants en route.
Dec. 16th.—Reached Rangagurrah, after a march of about an hour: and halted for the day.
Dec. 18th.—Started to visit Sedgwickia at the wood, where we found it in February last. Reached the spot, which is at least ten miles from Rangagurrah, in two hours and a half. The trees had evidently not flowered last year; many of the buds were of some size, and such contained flower buds, each capitula being in addition enveloped in three bracteæ densely beset with brown hair. The natives assured me, it will flower about April, or at the sowing of halee. When we before found it, the buds were all leaf buds, which at once accounts for the non-appearance of flowers. Gathered Sabia in the Sedgwickia wood. The Major {53} arrived before I got back.
Dec. 20th.—Revisited the tea locality of Tingrei, which we reached after a five hours’ march. The portion of it formerly cleared is now quite clean: all the plants, and they are very abundant, have a shrubby shady appearance; the branches being numerous, so that the first aspect is favourable. But one soon detects an evident coarseness in the leaves, the tint of which is likewise much too yellow; altogether their appearance is totally unlike that of teas growing in their natural shade. That part, and the more extensive one which we first visited in February last, is now clearing; almost all the large trees have been felled, and all the underwood removed. The branches, etc. are piled in heaps and set fire to, much to the detriment of the plants: all the tea trees likewise have been felled. My conviction is, that the tea will not flourish in open sunshine; at any rate, subjection to this should be gradual. Further, that cutting the main stem is detrimental, not only inducing long shoots, but most probably weakening the flavour of the leaves. It appears to me to be highly desirable, that an intelligent superintendent should reside on the spot, and that he should at least be a good practical gardener, with some knowledge of the science also.
Dec. 24th.—Reached Suddiya. The country passed through was, for the first two days, of the same description as before; i.e. rather high grassy plains with belts of jungle, and intervening low very swampy ravines. The soil precisely the same as that of the tea localities. The last march was, with the exception of Chykwar, through low damp dense jungle.