35. Limon, Limonia, citrea mala; exceedingly refreſhing, Cordial, &c. The Pulp being blended with the Juice, ſecluding the over-ſweet or bitter. See Orange.

36. Mallow, Malva; the curl'd, emollient, and friendly to the Ventricle, and ſo rather Medicinal; yet may the Tops, well boil'd, be admitted, and the reſt (tho' out of uſe at preſent) was taken by the Poets for all Sallets in general. Pythagoras held Malvæ folium Sanctiſimum; and we find Epimenides in ²²Plato at his Mallows and Aſphodel; and indeed it was of old the firſt Diſh at Table: The Romans had it alſo in deliciis, ²³Malvæ ſalubres corpori, approved by ²⁴Galen and ²⁵Dioſcorides; namely the Garden-Mallow, by others the Wild; but I think both proper rather for the Pot, than Sallet. Nonius ſuppoſes the tall Roſea, Arboreſcent Holi-hocks, that bears the broad Flower, for the beſt, and very ²⁶Laxative; but by reaſon of their clammineſs and Lentor, baniſhed from our Sallet, tho' by ſome commended and eaten with Oyl and Vinegar, and ſome with Butter.

Mercury, Bonus Henricus, Engliſh Mercury, or Lapathum Unctuoſum. See Blitum.

37. Melon, Melo; to have been reckon'd rather among Fruits; and tho' an uſual Ingredient in our Sallet; yet for its tranſcendent delicacy and flavor, cooling and exhilarating Nature (if ſweet, dry, weighty, and well-fed) not only ſuperior all the Gourd-kind, but Paragon with the nobleſt Productions of the Garden. Joſ. Scaliger and Caſaubon, think our Melon unknown to the Ancients, (which others contradict) as yet under the name of Cucumers: But he who reads how artificially they were Cultivated, rais'd under Glaſſes, and expos'd to the hot Sun, (for Tiberius) cannot well doubt of their being the ſame with ours.

There is alſo a Winter-Melon, large and with black Seeds, exceedingly Cooling, brought us from abroad, and the hotter Climates, where they drink Water after eating Melons; but in the colder (after all diſpute) Wine is judg'd the better: That it has indeed by ſome been accus'd as apt to corrupt in the Stomach (as do all things elſe eaten in exceſs) is not deny'd: But a perfect good Melon is certainly as harmleſs a Fruit as any whatſoever; and may ſafely be mingl'd with Sallet, in Pulp or Slices, or more properly eaten by it ſelf, with a little Salt and Pepper; for a Melon which requires Sugar to commend it, wants of Perfection. Note, That this Fruit was very rarely cultivated in England, ſo as to bring it to Maturity, till Sir Geo. Gardner came out of Spain. I my ſelf remembring, when an ordinary Melon would have been ſold for five or ſix Shillings. The ſmall unripe Fruit, when the others are paſt, may be Pickl'd with Mango, and are very delicate.

38. Mint, Mentha; the Anguſtifolia Spicata, Spear-Mint; dry and warm, very fragrant, a little preſs'd, is friendly to the weak Stomach, and powerful againſt all Nervous Crudities: The gentler Tops of the Orange-Mint, enter well into our Compoſition, or are grateful alone (as are alſo the other ſorts) with the Juice of Orange, and a little Sugar.

39. Muſhroms, Fungi; By the ²⁷Orator call'd Terræ, by Porphyry Deorum filii, without Seed (as produc'd by the Midwifry of Autumnal Thunder-Storms, portending the Miſchief they cauſe) by the French, Champignons, with all the Species of the Boletus, &c. for being, as ſome hold, neither Root, Herb, Flower, nor Fruit, nor to be eaten crude; ſhould be therefore baniſh'd entry into our Sallet, were I to order the Compoſition; however ſo highly contended for by many, as the very principal and top of all the reſt; whilſt I think them tolerable only (at leaſt in this Climate) if being freſh and skilfully choſen, they are accommodated with the niceſt Care and Circumſpection; generally reported to have ſomething malignant and noxious in them: Nor without cauſe; from the many ſad Examples, frequent Miſchiefs, and funeſt Accidents they have produc'd, not only to particular Perſons, but whole Families: Exalted indeed they were to the ſecond Courſe of the Cæsarian Tables, with the noble Title Βρωμα θεων, a Dainty fit for the Gods alone; to whom they ſent the Emperor ²⁸Claudius, as they have many ſince, to the other World. But he that reads how ²⁹Seneca deplores his loſt Friend, that brave Commander Annæus Serenus, and ſeveral other gallant Perſons with him, who all of them periſh'd at the same Repaſt; would be apt to ask with the ³⁰Naturaliſt (ſpeaking of this ſuſpicious Dainty) Quæ voluptas tanta ancipitis cibi? and who indeed would hazard it? So true is that of the Poet; He that eats Muſhroms, many time Nil amplius edit, eats no more perhaps all his Life after. What other deterring Epithets are given for our Caution, Βαρη πνιγοεντα μυκητων, heavy and choaking. (Athenæus reporting of the Poet Euripides's, finding a Woman and her three Children ſtrangl'd by eating of them) one would think ſufficient warning.

Among theſe comes in the Fungus Reticularis, to be found about London, as at Fulham and other places; whilſt at no ſmall charge we ſend for them into France; as we alſo do for Trufles, Pig-nuts, and other ſubterraneous Tubera, which in Italy they fry in Oyl, and eat with Pepper: They are commonly diſcovered by a Naſute Swine purpoſely brought up; being of a Cheſsnut Colour, and heady Smell, and not ſeldom found in England, particularly in a Park of my Lord Cotton's at Ruſhton or Rusbery in Northampton-ſhire, and doubtleſs in other ³¹places too were they ſought after. How these rank and provocative Excreſcences are to be ³²treated (of themſelves inſipid enough, and only famous for their kindly taking any Pickle or Conditure) that they may do the leſs Miſchief we might here ſet down. But ſince there be ſo many ways of Dreſſing them, that I can incourage none to uſe them, for Reaſons given (beſides that they do not at all concern our ſafer and innocent Sallet Furniture) I forbear it; and referr thoſe who long after this beloved Ragout, and other Voluptuaria Venena (as Seneca calls them) to what our Learned Dr. Lyſter ³³ ſays of the many Venomous Inſects harbouring and corrupting in a new found-out Species of Muſhroms had lately in deliciis. Thoſe, in the mean time, which are eſteemed beſt, and leſs pernicious, (of which ſee the Appendix) are ſuch as riſe in rich, airy, and dry ³⁴Paſture-Grounds; growing on the Staff or Pedicule of about an Inch thick and high; moderately Swelling (Target-like) round and firm, being underneath of a pale ſaffronish hue, curiouſly radiated in parallel Lines and Edges, which becoming either Yellow, Orange, or Black, are to be rejected: But beſides what the Harveſt-Months produce, they are likewiſe rais'd ³⁵Artificially; as at Naples in their Wine-Cellars, upon an heap of rank Earth, heaped upon a certain ſuppoſed Stone, but in truth, (as the curious and noble ³⁶Peireſky tells us, he found to be) nothing but an heap of old Fungus's, reduc'd and compacted to a ſtony hardness, upon which they lay Earth, and ſprinkle it with warm Water, in which Muſhroms have been ſteeped. And in France, by making an hot Bed of Aſſes-Dung, and when the heat is in Temper, watering it (as above) well impregnated with the Parings and Offals of refuſe Fungus's; and ſuch a Bed will laſt two or three Years, and ſometimes our common Melon-Beds afford them, beſides other Experiments.

40. Muſtard, Sinapi; exceeding hot and mordicant, not only in the Seed but Leaf alſo; eſpecially in Seedling young Plants, like thoſe of Radiſhes (newly peeping out of the Bed) is of incomparable effect to quicken and revive the Spirits; ſtrengthening the Memory, expelling heavineſs, preventing the Vertiginous Palſie, and is a laudable Cephalick. Beſides it is an approv'd Antiſcorbutick; aids Concoction, cuts and diſſipates Phlegmatick Humours. In ſhort, 'tis the moſt noble Embamma, and ſo neceſſary an Ingredient to all cold and raw Salleting, that it is very rarely, if at all, to be left out. In Italy in making Muſtard, they mingle Limon and Orange-Peel, with the Seeds. How the beſt is made, ſee hereafter.

Naſturtium Indicum. See Creſſes.

41. Nettles, Urtica; Hot, dry, Diuretic, Solvent; purifies the Blood: The Buds, and very tender Cimae, a little bruiſed, are by ſome eaten raw, by others boil'd, eſpecially in Spring-Pottage, with other Herbs.

42. Onion, Cepa, Porrum; the beſt are ſuch as are brought us out of Spain, whence they of St. Omers had them, and ſome that have weigh'd eight Pounds. Chooſe therefore the large, round, white, and thin Skin'd. Being eaten crude and alone with Oyl, Vinegar, and Pepper, we own them in Sallet, not ſo hot as Garlick, nor at all ſo rank: Boil'd, they give a kindly reliſh; raise Appetite, corroborate the Stomach, cut Phlegm, and profit the Aſthmatical: But eaten in exceſs, are ſaid to offend the Head and Eyes, unleſs Edulcorated with a gentle maceration. In the mean time, as to their being noxious to the Sight, is imputable only to the Vapour riſing from the raw Onion, when peeled, which ſome commend for its purging and quickning that Senſe. How they are us'd in Pottage, boil'd in Milk, stew'd, &c. concerns the Kitchin. In our cold Sallet we ſupply them with the Porrum Sectile, Tops of Leeks, and Eſchalots (Aſcalonia) of guſt more exalted, yet not to the degree of Garlick. Or (by what of later uſe is much preferr'd) with a Seed or two of Raccombo, of a yet milder and delicate nature, which by rubbing the Diſh only, imparts its Vertue agreeably enough. In Italy they frequently make a Sallet of Scalions, Cives, and Chibbols only ſeaſon'd with Oyl and Pepper; and an honeſt laborious Country-man, with good Bread, Salt, and a little Parſley, will make a contented Meal with a roaſted Onion. How this noble Bulb was deified in ³⁷Egypt we are told, and that whilſt they were building the Pyramids, there was ſpent in this Root ³⁸Ninety Tun of Gold among the Workmen. So luſhious and tempting it ſeems they were, that as whole Nations have ſubſiſted on them alone; ſo the Iſraelites were ready to return to Slavery and Brick-making for the love of them. Indeed Hecamedes we find preſents them to Patroclus, in Homer, as a Regalo; But certainly we are either miſtaken in the Species (which ſome will have to be Melons) or uſe Poetick Licence, when we ſo highly magnify them.

43. Orach, Atriplex: Is cooling, allays the Pituit Humor: Being ſet over the Fire, neither this, nor Lettuce, needs any other Water than their own moiſture to boil them in, without Expreſſion: The tender Leaves are mingl'd with other cold Salleting; but 'tis better in Pottage. See Blitum.

44. Orange, Arantiæ (Malum aureum) Moderately dry, cooling, and inciſive; ſharpens Appetite, exceedingly refreſhes and reſists Putrefaction: We ſpeak of the Sub acid; the ſweet and bitter Orange being of no uſe in our Sallet. The Limon is ſomewhat more acute, cooling and extinguiſhing Thirſt; of all the Οξυβαφα the best ſuccedaneum to Vinegar. The very Spoils and Rinds of Orange and Limon being ſhred and ſprinkl'd among the other Herbs, correct the Acrimony. But they are the tender Seedlings from the Hot-Bed, which impart an Aromatic exceedingly grateful to the Stomach. Vide Limon.

45. Parſnep, Paſtinaca, Carrot: firſt boil'd, being cold, is of it ſelf a Winter-Sallet, eaten with Oyl, Vinegar, &c. and having ſomething of Spicy, is by ſome, thought more nouriſhing than the Turnep.

46. Peaſe, Piſum: the Pod of the Sugar-Peaſe, when firſt beginning to appear, with the Husk and Tendrels, affording a pretty Acid, enter into the Compoſition, as do thoſe of Hops and the Vine.

47. Peper, Piper, hot and dry in a high degree; of approv'd Vertue against all flatulency proceeding from cold and phlegmatic Conſtitutions, and generally all Crudities whatſoever; and therefore for being of univerſal uſe to correct and temper the cooler Herbs, and ſuch as abound in moiſture; It is a never to be omitted Ingredient of our Sallets; provided it be not too minutely beaten (as oft we find it) to an almoſt impalpable Duſt, which is very pernicious and frequently adheres and ſticks in the folds of the Stomach, where, inſtead of promoting Concoction, it often cauſes a Cardialgium, and fires the Blood: It ſhould therefore be groſly contus'd only.

Indian Capſicum, ſuperlatively hot and burning, is yet by the Africans eaten with Salt and Vinegar by it ſelf, as an uſual Condiment; but wou'd be of dangerous conſequence with us; being ſo much more of an acrimonious and terribly biting quality, which by Art and Mixture is notwithſtanding render'd not only ſafe, but very agreeable in our Sallet.

Take the Pods, and dry them well in a Pan; and when they are become ſufficiently hard, cut them into ſmall pieces, and ſtamp 'em in a Mortar to duſt: To each Ounce of which add a Pound of Wheat-flour, fermented with a little Levain: Kneed and make them into Cakes or Loaves cut long-wiſe, in ſhape of Naples-Biſcuit. Theſe Re-bake a ſecond time, till they are Stone-hard: Pound them again as before, and ferce it through a fine Sieve, for a very proper Seaſoning, inſtead of vulgar Peper. The Mordicancy thus allay'd, be ſure to make the Mortar very clean, after having beaten Indian Capſicum, before you ſtamp any thing in it elſe. The green Husks, or firſt peeping Buds of the Walnut-Tree, dry'd to Powder, ſerve for Peper in ſome places, and ſo do Myrtle-berries.

48. Perſley, Petroſelinum, or Apium hortenſe; being hot and dry, opens Obſtructions, is very Diuretic, yet nouriſhing, edulcorated in ſhifted warm Water (the Roots eſpecially) but of leſs Vertue than Alexanders; nor ſo convenient in our crude Sallet, as when decocted on a Medicinal Account. Some few tops of the tender Leaves may yet be admitted; tho' it was of old, we read, never brought to the Table at all, as ſacred to Oblivium and the Defunct. In the mean time, there being nothing more proper for Stuffing, (Farces) and other Sauces, we conſign it to the Olitories. Note, that Perſley is not ſo hurtful to the Eyes as is reported. See Sellery.

49. Pimpernel, Pimpinella; eaten by the French and Italians, is our common Burnet; of ſo chearing and exhilarating a quality, and ſo generally commended, as (giving it admittance into all Sallets) 'tis paſs'd into a Proverb:

But a freſh ſprig in Wine, recommends it to us as its moſt genuine Element.

50. Purslain, Portulaca; eſpecially the Golden whilſt tender, next the Seed-leaves, with the young Stalks, being eminently moiſt and cooling, quickens Appetite, aſſwages Thirſt, and is very profitable for hot and Bilious Tempers, as well as Sanguine, and generally entertain'd in all our Sallets, mingled with the hotter Herbs: Tis likewiſe familiarly eaten alone with Oyl and Vinegar; but with moderation, as having been ſometimes found to corrupt in the Stomach, which being Pickl'd 'tis not ſo apt to do. Some eat it cold, after it has been boil'd, which Dr. Muffet would have in Wine, for Nouriſhment.

The Shrub Halimus, is a ſort of Sea-Purſlain: The newly peeping Leaves (tho' rarely us'd) afford a no unpleaſant Acidule, even during winter, if it prove not too ſevere.

Purſlain is accus'd for being hurtful to the Teeth, if too much eaten.

51. Radiſh, Raphanus. Albeit rather Medicinal, than ſo commendably accompanying our Sallets (wherein they often ſlice the larger Roots) are much inferior to the young Seedling Leaves and Roots; raiſed on the ³⁹Monthly Hot-Bed, almoſt the whole Year round, affording a very grateful mordacity, and ſufficiently attempers the cooler Ingredients: The bigger Roots (ſo much desir'd) ſhould be ſuch as being tranſparent, eat ſhort and quick, without ſtringineſs, and not too biting. Theſe are eaten alone with Salt only, as carrying their Peper in them; and were indeed by Dioſcorides and Pliny celebrated above all Roots whatſoever; inſomuch as in the Delphic Temple, there was Raphanus ex auro dicatus, a Radish of ſolid Gold; and 'tis ſaid of Moſchius, that he wrote a whole Volume in their praiſe. Notwithſtanding all which, I am ſure, the great ⁴⁰Hippocrates utterly condemns them, as Vitioſoe, innatantes ac aegre concoctiles. And the Naturaliſt calls it Cibus Illiberalis, fitter for Ruſtics than Gentlemens Tables. And indeed (beſides that they decay the Teeth) experience tells us, that as the Prince of Phyſicians writes, It is hard of Digeſtion, Inimicous to the Stomach, cauſing nauſeous Eructations, and ſometimes Vomiting, tho' otherwiſe Diuretic, and thought to repel the Vapours of Wine, when the Wits were at their genial Club. Dioſcorides and ⁴¹Galen differ about their Eating; One preſcribes it before Meals, the latter for after. Some macerate the young Roots in warm milk, to render them more Nouriſhing.

There is a Raphanus ruſticanus, the Spaniſh black Horſe Radish, of a hotter quality, and not ſo friendly to the Head; but a notable Antiſcorbutic, which may be eaten all the Winter, and on that account an excellent Ingredient in the Compoſition of Muſtard; as are alſo the thin Shavings, mingled with our cold Herbs. And now before I have done with this Root, for an excellent and univerſal Condiment. Take Horſe-Radiſh, whilſt newly drawn out of the Earth, otherwiſe laid to ſteep in Water a competent time; then grate it on a Grater which has no bottom, that ſo it may paſs thro', like a Mucilage, into a Diſh of Earthen Ware: This temper'd with Vinegar, in which a little Sugar has been diſſolv'd, you have a Sauce ſupplying Muſtard to the Sallet, and ſerving likewiſe for any Diſh beſides.

52. Rampion, Rapunculus, or the Eſculent Campanula: The tender Roots eaten in the Spring, like thoſe of Radiſhes, but much more Nouriſhing.

53. Rocket, Eruca Spaniſh; hot and dry, to be qualified with Lettuce, Purcelain, and the reſt, &c. See Tarragon.

Roccombo. See Onions.

54. Roſemary, Roſmarinus; Soverainly Cephalic, and for the Memory, Sight, and Nerves, incomparable: And tho' not us'd in the Leaf with our Sallet furniture, yet the Flowers, a little bitter, are always welcome in Vinegar; but above all, a freſh Sprig or two in a Glaſs of Wine. See Flowers.

55. Sage, Salvia; hot and dry. The tops of the Red, well pick'd and waſh'd (being often defil'd with Venomous Slime, and almoſt imperceptible Inſects) with the Flowers, retain all the noble Properties of the other hot Plants; more eſpecially for the Head, Memory, Eyes, and all Paralytical Affections. In ſhort, 'tis a Plant endu'd with ſo many and wonderful Properties, as that the aſſiduous uſe of it is ſaid to render Men Immortal: We cannot therefore but allow the tender Summities of the young Leaves; but principally the Flowers in our cold Sallet; yet ſo as not to domineer.

Salſifax, Scorzonera. See Vipergraſs.

56. Sampier, Crithmum: That growing on the Sea-Cliffs (as about Dover, &c.) not only Pickl'd, but crude and cold, when young and tender (and ſuch as we may Cultivate, and have in our Kitchin-Gardens, almoſt the Year round) is in my Opinion, for its Aromatic, and other excellent Vertues and Effects againſt the Spleen, Cleanſing the Paſſages, ſharpning Appetite, &c. ſo far preferrable to moſt of our hotter Herbs, and Sallet-Ingredients, that I have long wonder'd, it has not been long ſince propagated in the Potagere, as it is in France; from whence I have often receiv'd the Seeds, which have proſper'd better, and more kindly with me, than what comes from our own Coaſts: It does not indeed Pickle ſo well, as being of a more tender Stalk and Leaf: But in all other reſpects for compoſing Sallets, it has nothing like it.

57. Scalions, Aſcalonia, Cepæ; The French call them Appetites, which it notably quickens and ſtirs up: Corrects Crudities, and promotes Concoction. The Italians ſteep them in Water, mince, and eat them cold with Oyl, Vinegar, Salt, &c.

58. Scurvy-graſs, Cochlearia, of the Garden, but eſpecially that of the Sea, is ſharp, biting, and hot; of Nature like Naſturtium, prevalent in the Scorbute. A few of the tender Leaves may be admitted in our Compoſition. See Naſturtium Indicum.

59. Sellery, Apium Italicum, (and of the Petroſeline Family) was formerly a ſtranger with us (nor very long ſince in Italy) is an hot and more generous ſort of Macedonian Perſley, or Smallage. The tender Leaves of the Blancht Stalk do well in our Sallet, as likewiſe the ſlices of the whiten'd Stems, which being crimp and ſhort, firſt peel'd and ſlit long wiſe, are eaten with Oyl, Vinegar, Salt, and Peper; and for its high and grateful Taste, is ever plac'd in the middle of the Grand Sallet, at our Great Mens Tables, and Prætors Feaſts, as the Grace of the whole Board. Caution is to be given of a ſmall red Worm, often lurking in theſe Stalks, as does the green in Fennil.

Shallots. See Onion.

60. Skirrets, Siſarum; hot and moiſt, corroborating, and good for the Stomach, exceedingly nouriſhing, wholſome and delicate; of all the Root-kind, not ſubject to be Windy, and ſo valued by the Emperor Tiberius, that he accepted them for Tribute.

This excellent Root is ſeldom eaten raw; but being boil'd, ſtew'd, roaſted under the Embers, bak'd in Pies, whole, ſliced, or in pulp, is very acceptable to all Palates. 'Tis reported they were heretofore ſomething bitter; See what Culture and Education effects!

61. Sorrel, Acetoſa: of which there are divers kinds. The French Acetocella, with the round Leaf, growing plentifully in the North of England; Roman Oxalis; the broad German, &c. but the beſt is of Green-Land: by nature cold, Abſterſive, Acid, ſharpning Appetite, aſſwages Heat, cools the Liver, ſtrengthens the Heart; is an Antiſcorbutic, reſiſting Putrefaction, and imparting ſo grateful a quickneſs to the reſt, as ſupplies the want of Orange, Limon, and other Omphacia, and therefore never to be excluded. Vide Wood-Sorrel.

62. Sow-thiſtle, Sonchus; of the Intybus-kind. Galen was us'd to eat it as Lettuce; exceedingly welcome to the late Morocco. Ambaſſador and his Retinue.

63. Sparagus, Aſparagus (ab Aſperitate) temperately hot, and moiſt; Cordial, Diuretic, eaſie of Digeſtion, and next to Fleſh, nothing more nourishing, as Sim. Sethius, an excellent Phyſician holds. They are ſometimes, but very ſeldom, eaten raw with Oyl, and Vinegar; but with more delicacy (the bitterneſs firſt exhauſted) being ſo ſpeedily boil'd, as not to loſe the verdure and agreeable tenderneſs; which is done by letting the Water boil, before you put them in. I do not eſteem the Dutch great and larger ſort (eſpecially rais'd by the rankneſs of the Beds) ſo ſweet and agreeable, as thoſe of a moderate ſize.

64. Spinach, Spinachia: of old not us'd in Sallets, and the oftner kept out the better; I ſpeak of the crude: But being boil'd to a Pult, and without other Water than its own moiſture, is a moſt excellent Condiment with Butter, Vinegar, or Limon, for almoſt all ſorts of boil'd Fleſh, and may accompany a Sick Man's Diet. 'Tis Laxative and Emollient, and therefore profitable for the Aged, and (tho' by original a Spaniard) may be had at almoſt any Season, and in all places.

Stone-Crop, Sedum Minus. See Trick-Madame.

65. Succory, Cichorium, an Intube; erratic and wild, with a narrow dark Leaf, different from the Sative, tho' probably by culture only; and for being very bitter, a little edulcorated with Sugar and Vinegar, is by ſome eaten in the Summer, and more grateful to the Stomach than the Palate. See Endive.

66. Tansy, Tanacetum; hot and cleanſing; but in regard of its domineering reliſh, ſparingly mixt with our cold Sallet, and much fitter (tho' in very ſmall quantity) for the Pan, being qualified with the Juices of other freſh Herbs, Spinach, Green Corn, Violet, Primrose-Leaves, &c. at entrance of the Spring, and then fried browniſh, is eaten hot with the Juice of Orange and Sugar, as one of the moſt agreeable of all the boil'd Herbaceous Diſhes.

67. Tarragon, Draco Herba, of Spaniſh Extraction; hot and ſpicy: The Tops and young Shoots, like thoſe of Rochet, never to be ſecluded our Compoſition, eſpecially where there is much Lettuce. 'Tis highly cordial and friendly to the Head, Heart, Liver, correcting the weakneſs of the Ventricle, &c.

68. Thiſtle, Carduus Mariæ; our Lady's milky or dappl'd Thiſtle, diſarm'd of its Prickles, is worth eſteem: The young Stalk about May, being peel'd and ſoak'd in Water, to extract the bitterneſs, boil'd or raw, is a very wholſome Sallet, eaten with Oyl, Salt, and Peper; ſome eat them ſodden in proper Broath, or bak'd in Pies, like the Artichoak; but the tender Stalk boil'd or fry'd, ſome preferr; both Nouriſhing and Reſtorative.

69. Trick-Madame, Sedum minus, Stone-Crop; is cooling and moiſt, grateful to the Stomach. The Cimata and Tops, when young and tender, dreſs'd as Purſelane, is a frequent Ingredient in our cold Sallet.

70. Turnep, Rapum; moderately hot and moiſt: Napus; the long Navet is certainly the moſt delicate of them, and best Nouriſhing. Pliny ſpeaks of no fewer than ſix ſorts, and of ſeveral Colours; ſome of which were ſuspected to be artificially tinged. But with us, the yellow is preferr'd; by others the red Bohemian. But of whatever kind, being ſown upon the Hot-bed, and no bigger than ſeedling Radiſh, they do excellently in Compoſition; as do alſo the Stalks of the common Turnep, when firſt beginning to Bud.

And here ſhould not be forgotten, that wholſome, as well as agreeable ſort of Bread, we are ⁴²taught to make; and of which we have eaten at the greateſt Perſons Tables, hardly to be distinguiſh'd from the beſt of Wheat.

Let the Turneps firſt be peel'd, and boil'd in Water till ſoft and tender; then ſtrongly preſſing out the Juice, mix them together, and when dry (beaten or pounded very fine) with their weight of Wheat-Meal, ſeaſon it as you do other Bread, and knead it up; then letting the Dough remain a little to ferment, faſhion the Paſte into Loaves, and bake it like common Bread.

Some roaſt Turneps in a Paper under the Embers, and eat them with Sugar and Butter.

71. Vine, Vitis, the Capreols, Tendrels, and Claſpers (like thoſe of the Hop, &c.) whilſt very young, have an agreeable Acid, which may be eaten alone, or with other Sallet.

72. Viper-graſs, Tragopogon, Scorzonera, Salſifex, &c. tho' Medicinal, and excellent againſt the Palpitation of the Heart, Faintings, Obſtruction of the Bowels, &c. are beſides a very ſweet and pleaſant Sallet; being laid to ſoak out the bitterneſs, then peel'd, may be eaten raw, or Condited; but beſt of all ſtew'd with Marrow, Spice, Wine, &c. as Artichoak, Skirrets, &c. ſliced or whole. They likewiſe may bake, fry, or boil them; a more excellent Root there is hardly growing.

73. Wood-Sorrel, Trifolium acetoſum, or Alleluja, of the nature of other Sorrels.

To all which might we add ſundry more, formerly had in deliciis, ſince grown obſolete or quite neglected with us: As among the nobleſt Bulbs, that of the Tulip; a Root of which has been valued not to eat, but for the Flower (and yet eaten by miſtake) at more than an hundred Pounds. The young freſh Bulbs are ſweet and high of taſte. The Aſphodil or Daffodil; a Sallet ſo rare in Heſiod's Days, that Lobel thinks it the Parſnep, tho' not at all like it; however it was (with the Mallow) taken anciently for any Edule-Root.

The Ornithogalons roaſted, as they do Cheſtnuts, are eaten by the Italians, the wild yellow eſpecially, with Oyl, Vinegar, and Peper. And ſo the ſmall tuberous Roots of Gramen Amygdaloſum; which they alſo roaſt, and make an Emulſion of, to uſe in Broaths as a great Reſtorative. The Oxylapathum, us'd of old; in the time of Galen was eaten frequently. As alſo Dracontium, with the Mordicant Arum Theophraſti, which Dodonæus teaches how to Dreſs. Nay, divers of the Satyrions, which ſome condited with Sugar, others boil'd in Milk for a great Nouriſher, now diſcarded. But what think we of the Cicuta, which there are who reckon among Sallet Herbs? But whatever it is in any other Country, 'tis certainly Mortiferous in ours. To these add the Viola Matronalis, Radix Lunaria, &c. nay, the Green Poppy, by most accounted among the deadly Poyſons: How cautious then ought our Sallet-Gatherers to be, in reading ancient Authors; leſt they happen to be impos'd on, where they treat of Plants, that are familiarly eaten in other Countries, and among other Nations and People of more robuſt and ſtrong conſtitutions? beſsides the hazard of being miſtaken in the Names of divers Simples, not as yet fully agreed upon among the Learned in Botany.

There are beſsides ſeveral remaining, which tho' Abdicated here with us, find Entertainment ſtill in Foreign Countries: As the large Heliotrope and Sun-flower (e're it comes to expand, and ſhew its golden Face) which being dreſs'd as the Artichoak, is eaten for a dainty. This I add as a new Diſcovery. I once made Macaroons with the ripe blanch'd Seeds, but the Turpentine did ſo domineer over all, that it did not anſwer expectation. The Radix Perſonata mounting with their young Heads, Lyſimachia ſiliquoſa glabra minor, when freſh and tender, begins to come into the Sallet-Tribe. The pale whiter Popy, is eaten by the Genoueſe. By the Spaniards, the tops of Wormwood with Oyl alone, and without ſo much as Bread; profitable indeed to the Stomach, but offenſive to the Head; As is alſo Coriander and Rue, which Galen was accuſtom'd to eat raw, and by it ſelf, with Oyl and Salt, as exceedingly grateful, as well as wholſome, and of great vertue againſt Infection. Pliny, I remember, reports it to be of ſuch effect for the Preſervation of Sight; that the Painters of his Time, us'd to devour a great quantity of it. And it is ſtill by the Italians frequently mingled among their Sallets. The Lapatha Perſonata (common Burdock) comes now and then to the beſt Tables, about April, and when young, before the Burrs and Clots appear, being ſtrip'd, and the bitterneſs ſoaked out, treated as the Chardoon, is eaten in Poiverade; Some alſo boil them. More might here be reckon'd up, but theſe may ſuffice; ſince as we find ſome are left off, and gone out, ſo others be introduc'd and come in their room, and that in much greater Plenty and Variety, than was ever known by our Ancestors. The Cucumber it ſelf, now ſo univerſally eaten, being accounted little better than Poyſon, even within our Memory, as already noted.

To conclude, and after all that has been ſaid of Plants and Salleting, formerly in great eſteem, (but ſince obſolete and quite rejected); What if the exalted Juice of the ancient Silphium ſhould come in, and challenge the Precedency? It is a ⁴³Plant formerly ſo highly priz'd, and rare for the richneſs of its Taſte and other Vertues; that as it was dedicated to Apollo, and hung up in his Temple at Delphi; So we read of one ſingle Root brought to the Emperor Nero for an extraordinary Preſent; and the Drug ſo eſteem'd, that the Romans had long before amaſs'd a quantity of it, and kept it in the Treaſury, till Julius Cæſar rob'd it, and took this away, as a thing of mighty value: In a word, it was of that Account; that as a ſacred Plant, thoſe of the Cyrenaic Africa, honour'd the very Figure of it, by ſtamping it on the Reverſe of their ⁴⁴Coin; and when they would commend a thing for its worth to the Skies, Βατ-ου σιλφιον, grew into a Proverb: Battus having been the Founder of the City Cyrene, near which it only grew. 'Tis indeed conteſted among the Learned Botanoſophiſts, whether this Plant was not the ſame with Laſerpitium, and the Laſer it yields, the odoriferous ⁴⁵Benzoin? But doubtleſs had we the true and genuine Silphium (for it appears to have been often ſophiſticated, and a ſpurious ſort brought into Italy) it would ſoon recover its priſtine Reputation, and that it was not celebrated ſo for nothing extraordinary; ſince beſsides its Medicinal Vertue; it was a wonderful Corroborater of the Stomach, a Reſtorer of loſt Appetite, and Maſculine Vigour, &c. and that they made uſe of it almoſt in every thing they eat.

But ſhould we now really tell the World, that this precious Juice is, by many, thought to be no other than the ⁴⁶Faetid Aſſa our nicer Sallet-Eaters (who yet beſtow as odious an Epithet on the vulgar Garlick) would cry out upon it as intolerable, and perhaps hardly believe it: But as Ariſtophanes has brought it in, and ſufficiently deſcrib'd it; ſo the Scholiaſt upon the place, puts it out of Controverſy: And that they made uſe both of the Leaves, Stalk, (and Extract eſpecially) as we now do Garlick, and other Hautgouts as nauſeous altogether. In the mean time, Garcius, Bontius, and others, aſſure us, that the Indians at this day univerſally ſauce their Viands with it; and the Bramins (who eat no Fleſh at all) inrich their Sallets, by constantly rubbing the Diſhes with it. Nor are ſome of our own ſkilful Cooks Ingnorant, how to condite and uſe it, with the Applauſe of thoſe, who, ignorant of the Secret, have admir'd the richneſs of the Guſt it has imparted, when it has been ſubſtituted inſtead of all our Cipollati, and other ſeaſonings of that Nature.

And thus have we done with the various Species of all ſuch Eſculents as may properly enter the Compoſition of our Acetaria, and cold Sallet. And if I have briefly touch'd upon their Natures, Degrees, and primary Qualities, which Intend or Remit, as to the Scale of Heat, Cold, Drineſs, Moiſture, &c. (which is to be underſtood according to the different Texture of their component Particles) it has not been without what I thought neceſſary for the Inſtruction of the Gatherer, and Sallet-Dreſſer; how he ought to chooſe, ſort, and mingle his Materials and Ingredients together.

What Care and Circumſpection ſhould attend the choice and collection of Sallet Herbs, has been partly ſhew'd. I can therefore, by no means, approve of that extravagant Fancy of ſome, who tell us, that a Fool is as fit to be the Gatherer of a Sallet as a Wiſer Man. Becauſe, ſay they, one can hardly chooſe amiſs, provided the Plants be green, young, and tender, where-ever they meet with them: But ſad experience ſhews, how many fatal Miſtakes have been committed by thoſe who took the deadly Cicutæ, Hemlocks, Aconits, &c. for Garden Perſley, and Parſneps; the Myrrhis Sylveſtris, or Cow-Weed, for Chaerophilum, (Chervil) Thapſia for Fennel; the wild Chondrilla for Succory; Dogs-Mercury inſtead of Spinach: Papaver Corniculatum Luteum, and horn'd Poppy for Eringo; Oenanthe aquatica for the Paluſtral Apium, and a world more, whoſe dire effects have been many times ſudden Death, and the cause of Mortal Accidents to thoſe who have eaten of them unwittingly: But ſuppoſing ſome of thoſe wild and unknown Plants ſhould not prove ſo deleterious and ⁴⁷unwholſome; yet may others of them annoy the Head, Brain, and Genus Nervoſum, weaken the Eyes, offend the Stomach, affect the Liver, torment the Bowels, and diſcover their malignity in dangerous and dreadful Symptoms. And therefore ſuch Plants as are rather Medicinal than Nouriſhing and Refreſhing, are ſtudiouſly to be rejected. So highly neceſſary it is, that what we ſometimes find in old Books concerning Edules of other Countries and Climates (frequently call'd by the Names of ſuch as are wholſome in ours, and among us) miſlead not the unskilful Gatherer; to prevent which we read of divers Popes and Emperors, that had ſometimes Learned Phyſicians for their Maſter-Cooks. I cannot therefore but exceedingly approve of that charitable Advice of Mr. Ray ⁴⁸(Tranſact. Num. 238.) who thinks it the Intereſt of Mankind, that all Perſons ſhould be caution'd of advent'ring upon unknown Herbs and Plants to their Prejudice: Of ſuch, I ſay, with our excellent ⁴⁹Poet (a little chang'd)