The Illuſtrious and Learned Columna has, by obſerving what ⁵⁰Inſects did uſually feed on, make Conjectures of the Nature of the Plants. But I ſhould not ſo readily adventure upon it on that account, as to its wholſomneſs: For tho' indeed one may ſafely eat of a Peach or Abricot, after a Snail has been Taſter, I queſtion whether it might be ſo of all other Fruits and Herbs attack'd by other Inſects: Nor would one conclude, the Hyoſcyamus harmleſs, because the Cimex feeds upon it, as the Learned Dr. Lyſter has diſcover'd. Notice ſhould therefore be taken what Eggs of Inſects are found adhering to the Leaves of Sallet-Herbs, and frequently cleave ſo firmly to them, as not eaſily to be waſh'd off, and ſo not being taken notice of, paſſing for accidental and harmleſs Spots only, may yet produce very ill effects.

Grillus, who according to the Doctrine of Tranſmigration (as Plutarch tells us) had, in his turn, been a Beaſt; diſcourſes how much better he fed, and liv'd, than when he was turn'd to Man again, as knowing then, what Plants were beſt and moſt proper for him: Whilſt Men, Sarcophagiſts (Fleſh-Eaters) in all this time were yet to ſeek. And 'tis indeed very evident, that Cattel, and other πανφαγα, and herbaceous Animals which feed on Plants, are directed by their Smell, and accordingly make election of their Food: But Men (beſsides the Smell and Taſte) have, or ſhould have, Reaſon, Experience, and the Aids of Natural Philoſophy to be their Guides in this Matter. We have heard of Plants, that (like the Baſilisk) kill and infect by ⁵¹looking on them only; and ſome by the touch. The truth is, there's need of all the Senſes to determine Analogically concerning the Vertues and Properties, even of the Leaves alone of many Edule Plants: The moſt eminent Principles of near the whole Tribe of Sallet Vegetables, inclining rather to Acid and Sowre than to any other quality, eſpecially, Salt, Sweet, or Luſcious. There is therefore Skill and Judgment requir'd, how to ſuit and mingle our Sallet-Ingredients, ſo as may beſt agree with the Conſtitution of the (vulgarly reputed) Humors of thoſe who either ſtand in need of, or affect theſe Refreſhments, and by ſo adjuſting them, that as nothing ſhould be ſuffer'd to domineer, ſo ſhould none of them loſe their genuine Guſt, Savour, or Vertue. To this end,

The Cooler, and moderately refreſhing, ſhould be choſen to extinguiſh Thirſt, attemper the Blood, repreſs Vapours, &c.

The Hot, Dry, Aromatic, Cordial and friendly to the Brain, may be qualify'd by the Cold and Moiſt: The Bitter and Stomachical, with the Sub-acid and gentler Herbs: The Mordicant and pungent, and ſuch as repreſs or diſcuſs Flatulency (revive the Spirits, and aid Concoction;) with ſuch as abate, and take off the keenneſs, mollify and reconcile the more harſh and churliſh: The mild and inſipid, animated with piquant and brisk: The Aſtringent and Binders, with ſuch as are Laxative and Deobſtruct: The over-ſluggish, raw, and unactive, with thoſe that are Eupeptic, and promote Concoction: There are Pectorals for the Breaſt and Bowels. Thoſe of middle Nature, according as they appear to be more or leſs Specific; and as their Characters (tho' briefly) are deſcrib'd in our foregoing Catalogue: For notwithſtanding it ſeem in general, that raw Sallets and Herbs have experimentally been found to be the most ſoveraign Diet in that Endemial (and indeed with us, Epidemical and almoſt univerſal) Contagion the Scorbute, to which we of this Nation, and moſt other Ilanders are obnoxious; yet, ſince the Naſturtia are ſingly, and alone as it were, the moſt effectual, and powerful Agents in conquering and expugning that cruel Enemy; it were enough to give the Sallet-Dreſſer direction how to chooſe, mingle, and proportion his Ingredients; as well as to ſhew what Remedies there are contain'd in our Magazine of Sallet-Plants upon all Occaſions, rightly marſhal'd and skilfully apply'd. So as (with our ⁵²ſweet Cowley)

We have ſaid how neceſſary it is, that in the Compoſure of a Sallet, every Plant ſhould come in to bear its part, without being over-power'd by ſome Herb of a ſtronger Taſte, ſo as to endanger the native Sapor and vertue of the reſt; but fall into their places, like the Notes in Muſic, in which there ſhould be nothing harſh or grating: And tho' admitting ſome Diſcords (to diſtinguiſh and illuſtrate the reſt) ſtriking in the more ſprightly, and ſometimes gentler Notes, reconcile all Diſſonancies, and melt them into an agreeable Compoſition. Thus the Comical Maſter-Cook, introduc'd by Damoxenus, when asked πως εσις αυτοις ονμφονια; What Harmony there was in Meats? The very ſame (ſays he) that a Diateſſaron, Diapente, and Diapaſon have one to another in a Conſort of Muſic: And that there was as great care requir'd, not to mingle ⁵³Sapores minime conſentientes, jarring and repugnant Taſtes; looking upon him as a lamentable Ignorant, who ſhould be no better vers'd in Democritus. The whole Scene is very diverting, as Athenæus preſents it; and to the ſame ſenſe Macrobius, Saturn. lib. I. cap. I. In ſhort, the main Skill of the Artiſt lies in this:

As our ⁵⁴Paradiſian Bard introduces Eve, dreſſing of a Sallet for her Angelical Gueſt.

Thus, by the diſcreet choice and mixture of the Oxoleon (Oyl, Vinegar, Salt, &c.) the Compoſition is perfect; ſo as neither the Prodigal, Niggard, nor Inſipid, ſhould (according to the Italian Rule) preſcribe in my Opinion; ſince One may be too profuſe, the Other ⁵⁵over-ſaving, and the Third (like himſelf) give it no Reliſh at all: It may be too ſharp, if it exceed a grateful Acid; too Inſulſe and flat, if the Profuſion be extream. From all which it appears, that a Wiſe-Man is the proper Compoſer of an excellent Sallet, and how many Tranſcendences belong to an accompliſh'd Sallet-Dreſſer, ſo as to emerge an exact Critic indeed, He ſhould be skill'd in the Degrees, Terms, and various Species of Taſtes, according to the Scheme ſet us down in the Tables of the Learned ⁵⁶Dr. Grew, to which I refer the Curious.

'Tis moreover to be conſider'd, that Edule Plants are not in all their Taſtes and Vertues alike: For as Providence has made us to conſiſt of different Parts and Members, both Internal and External; ſo require they different Juices to nouriſh and ſupply them: Wherefore the force and activity of ſome Plants lie in the Root; and even the Leaves of ſome Bitter-Roots are ſweet, and è contra. Of others, in the Stem, Leaves, Buds, Flowers, &c. Some exert their Vigour without Decoction; others being a little preſs'd or contus'd; others again Raw, and beſt in Conſort; ſome alone, and per ſe without any σκενασια, Preparation, or Mixture at all. Care therefore muſt be taken by the Collector, that what he gathers anſwer to theſe Qualities; and that as near as he can, they conſiſt (I ſpeak of the cruder Salleting) of the Oluſcula, and ex foliis pubeſcentibus, or (as Martial calls them) Prototomi rudes, and very tendereſt Parts Gems, young Buds, and even firſt Rudiments of their ſeveral Plants; ſuch as we ſometimes find in the Craws of the Wood-Culver, Stock-Dove, Partridge, Pheaſants, and other Upland Fowl, where we have a natural Sallet, pick'd, and almoſt dreſs'd to our hands.

I. Preparatory to the Dreſſing therefore, let your Herby Ingredients be exquiſitely cull'd, and cleans'd of all worm-eaten, ſlimy, canker'd, dry, ſpotted, or any ways vitiated Leaves. And then that they be rather diſcreetly ſprinkl'd, than over-much ſob'd with Spring-Water, eſpecially Lettuce, which Dr. ⁵⁷Muffet thinks impairs their Vertue; but this, I ſuppoſe he means of the Cabbage-kind, whoſe heads are ſufficiently protected by the outer Leaves which cover it. After waſhing, let them remain a while in the Cullender, to drain the ſuperfluous moiſture: And laſtly, ſwing them altogether gently in a clean courſe Napkin; and ſo they will be in perfect condition to receive the Intinctus following.

II. That the Oyl, an Ingredient ſo indiſpenſibly and highly neceſſary, as to have obtain'd the name of Cibarium (and with us of Sallet-Oyl) be very clean, not high-colour'd, nor yellow; but with an Eye rather of a pallid Olive green, without Smell, or the leaſt touch of rancid, or indeed of any other ſensible Taſte or Scent at all; but ſmooth, light, and pleaſant upon the Tongue; ſuch as the genuine Omphacine, and native Luca Olives afford, fit to allay the tartneſs of Vinegar, and other Acids, yet gently to warm and humectate where it paſſes. Some who have an averſion to Oyl, ſubſtitute freſh Butter in its ſtead; but 'tis ſo exceedingly clogging to the Stomach, as by no means to be allow'd.

III. Thirdly, That the Vinegar and other liquid Acids, perfectly clear, neither ſowre, Vapid or ſpent; be of the beſt Wine Vinegar, whether Diſtill'd, or otherwiſe Aromatiz'd, and impregnated with the Infuſion of Clove-gillyflowers, Elder, Roſes, Roſemary, Naſturtium, &c. inrich'd with the Vertues of the Plant.

A Verjuice not unfit for Sallet, is made by a Grape of that Name, or the green immature Cluſters of moſt other Grapes, preſs'd and put into a ſmall Veſſel to ferment.

IV. Fourthly, That the Salt (aliorum Condimentorum Condimentum, as Plutarch calls it) deterſive, penetrating, quickning (and ſo great a reſiſter of Putrefaction, and univerſal uſe, as to have ſometimes merited Divine Epithets) be of the brighteſt Bay grey-Salt; moderately dried, and contus'd, as being the leaſt Corroſive: But of this, as of Sugar alſo, which ſome mingle with the Salt (as warming without heating) if perfectly refin'd, there would be no great difficulty; provided none, ſave Ladies, were of the Meſs; whilſt the perfection of Sallets, and that which gives them the name, conſiſts in the grateful Saline Acid-point, temper'd as is directed, and which we find to be moſt eſteem'd by judicious Palates: Some, in the mean time, have been ſo nice, and luxuriouſly curious as for the heightning, and (as they affect to ſpeak) giving the utmoſt poinant and Relevèe in lieu of our vulgar Salt, to recommend and cry-up the Eſſential-Salts and Spirits of the moſt Sanative Vegetables; or ſuch of the Alcalizate and Fixt; extracted from the Calcination of Baulm, Roſemary, Wormwood, Scurvy-graſs, &c. Affirming that without the groſs Plant, we might have healing, cooling, generous, and refreſhing Cordials, and all the Materia Medica out of the Salt-Cellar only: But to ſay no more of this Impertinence, as to Salts of Vegetables; many indeed there be, who reckon them not much unlike in Operation, however different in Taſte, Cryſtals, and Figure: It being a queſtion, whether they at all retain the Vertues and Faculties of their Simples, unleſs they could be made without Colcination. Franciſcus Redi, gives us his Opinion of this, in a Proceſs how they are to be prepar'd; and ſo does our Learned ⁵⁸Doctor (whom we lately nam'd) whether Lixivial, Eſſential, Marine, or other factitious Salts of Plants, with their Qualities, and how they differ: But ſince 'tis thought all Fixed Salts made the common way, are little better than our common Salt, let it ſuffice, that our Sallet-Salt be of the beſt ordinary Bay-Salt, clean, bright, dry, and without clamineſs.

Of Sugar (by ſome call'd Indian-Salt) as it is rarely us'd in Sallet, it ſhould be of the beſt refined, white, hard, cloſe, yet light and ſweet as the Madera's: Nouriſhing, preſerving, cleanſing, delighting the Taſte, and preferrable to Honey for moſt uſes. Note, That both this, Salt, and Vinegar, are to be proportion'd to the Conſtitution, as well as what is ſaid of the Plants themſelves. The one for cold, the other for hot stomachs.

V. That the Muſtard (another noble Ingredient) be of the beſt Tewksberry; or elſe compos'd of the ſoundest and weightieſt Yorkſhire Seed, exquiſitely ſifted, winnow'd, and freed from the Husks, a little (not over-much) dry'd by the Fire, temper'd to the conſiſtence of a Pap with Vinegar, in which ſhavings of the Horſe-Radiſh have been ſteep'd: Then cutting an Onion, and putting it into a ſmall Earthen Gally-Pot, or ſome thick Glaſs of that ſhape; pour the Muſtard over it, and cloſe it very well with a Cork. There be, who preſerve the Flower and Duſt of the bruiſed Seed in a well-ſtopp'd Glaſs, to temper, and have it freſh when they pleaſe. But what is yet by ſome eſteem'd beyond all theſe, is compos'd of the dried Seeds of the Indian Naſturtium, reduc'd to Powder, finely bolted, and mixt with a little Levain, and ſo from time to time made freſh, as indeed all other Muſtard ſhould be.

Note, That the Seeds are pounded in a Mortar; or bruis'd with a poliſh'd Cannon-Bullet, in a large wooden Bowl-Diſh, or which is moſt preferr'd, ground in a Quern contriv'd for this purpoſe only.

VI. Sixthly, That the Pepper (white or black) be not bruis'd to too ſmall a Duſt; which, as we caution'd, is very prejudicial. And here let me mention the Root of the Minor Pimpinella, or ſmall Burnet Saxifrage; which being dried, is by ſome extoll'd beyond all other Peppers, and more wholſom.

Of other Strewings and Aromatizers, which may likewiſe be admitted to inrich our Sallet, we have already ſpoken, where we mention Orange and Limon-peel; to which may alſo be added, Jamaica-Pepper, Juniper-berries, &c. as of ſingular Vertue.

Nor here ſhould I omit (the mentioning at leaſt of) Saffron, which the German Houſewives have a way of forming into Balls, by mingling it with a little Honey; which throughly dried, they reduce to Powder, and ſprinkle it over their Sallets for a noble Cordial. Thoſe of Spain and Italy, we know, generally make uſe of this Flower, mingling its golden Tincture with almoſt every thing they eat; But its being ſo apt to prevail above every thing with which 'tis blended, we little incourage its admittance into our Sallet.

VII. Seventhly, That there be the Yolks of freſh and new-laid Eggs, boil'd moderately hard, to be mingl'd and maſh'd with the Muſtard, Oyl, and Vinegar; and part to cut into quarters, and eat with the Herbs.

VIII. Eighthly, (according to the ſuper-curious) that the Knife, with which the Sallet Herbs are cut (eſpecially Oranges, Limons, &c.) be of Silver, and by no means of Steel, which all Acids are apt to corrode, and retain a Metalic reliſh of.

IX. Ninthly and Laſtly, That the Saladiere, (Sallet-Diſhes) be of Porcelane, or of the Holland-Delft-Ware; neither too deep nor ſhallow, according to the quantity of the Sallet Ingredients; Pewter, or even Silver, not at all ſo well agreeing with Oyl and Vinegar, which leave their ſeveral Tinctures. And note, That there ought to be one of the Diſhes, in which to beat and mingle the Liquid Vehicles; and a ſecond to receive the crude Herbs in, upon which they are to be pour'd; and then with a Fork and a Spoon kept continually ſtirr'd, 'till all the Furniture be equally moiſten'd: Some, who are huſbands of their Oyl, pour at firſt the Oyl alone, as more apt to communicate and diffuſe its Slipperineſs, than when it is mingled and beaten with the Acids; which they pour on laſt of all; and 'tis incredible how ſmall a quantity of Oyl (in this quality, like the gilding of Wyer) is ſufficient, to imbue a very plentiful aſſembly of Sallet-Herbs.

The Sallet-Gatherer likewiſe ſhould be provided with a light, and neatly made Withy-Dutch-Basket, divided into ſeveral Partitions. Thus inſtructed and knowing in the Apparatus; the Species, Proportions, and manner of Dreſſing, according to the ſeveral Seaſons you have in the following Table.

It being one of the Inquiries of the Noble ⁵⁹Mr. Boyle, what Herbs were proper and fit to make Sallets with, and how beſt to order them? we have here (by the Aſſiſtance of Mr. London, His Majeſty's Principal Gard'ner) reduc'd them to a competent Number, not exceeding Thirty Five; but which may be vary'd and inlarg'd, by taking in, or leaving out, any other Sallet-Plant, mention'd in the foregoing Liſt, under theſe three or four Heads.

But all theſe ſorts are not to be had at the very ſame time, and therefore we have divided them into the Quarterly Seaſons, each containing and laſting Three Months.

Note, That by Parts is to be underſtood a Pugil; which is no more than one does uſually take up between the Thumb and the two next Fingers. By Faſcicule a reaſonable full Grip, or Handful.

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[Transcriber's Note: The following tables have been modified from their original layout. The left-most columns are converted to "section headers", the column headers have been reproduced above each of these new sections, and a horizontal rule added above them to better visually indicate the restructuring. As you can see from following the link to the image of the table, the original structure is very wide.]

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Farther Directions concerning the proper Seaſons for the Gathering, Compoſing, and Dreſſing of a Sallet.

A nd Firſt, as to the Seaſon both Plants and Roots are then properly to be Gather'd, and in prime, when moſt they abound with Juice and in Vigour: Some in the Spring, or a little anticipating it before they Bloſſom, or are in full Flower: Some in the Autumnal Months; which later Seaſon many prefer, the Sap of the Herb, tho' not in ſuch exuberance, yet as being then better concocted, and ſo render'd fit for Salleting, 'till the Spring begins a freſh to put forth new, and tender Shoots and Leaves.

This, indeed, as to the Root, newly taken out of the Ground is true; and therefore ſhould ſuch have their Germination ſtopt the ſooner: The approaching and prevailing Cold, both Maturing and Impregnating them; as does Heat the contrary, which now would but exhauſt them: But for thoſe other Eſculents and Herbs imploy'd in our Compoſition of Sallets, the early Spring, and enſuing Months (till they begin to mount, and prepare to Seed) is certainly the moſt natural, and kindly Seaſon to collect and accommodate them for the Table. Let none then conſult Culpeper, or the Figure-flingers, to inform them when the governing Planet is in its Exaltation; but look upon the Plants themſelves, and judge of their Vertues by their own Complexions.

Moreover, in Gathering, Reſpect is to be had to their Proportions, as provided for in the Table under that Head, be the Quality whatſoever: For tho' there is indeed nothing more wholſome than Lettuce and Muſtard for the Head and Eyes; yet either of them eaten in exceſs, were highly prejudicial to them both: Too much of the firſt extreamly debilitating and weakning the Ventricle, and haſtning the further decay of ſickly Teeth; and of the ſecond the Optic Nerves, and Sight it ſelf; the like may be ſaid of all the reſt. I conceive therefore, a Prudent Perſon, well acquainted with the Nature and Properties of Sallet-Herbs, &c. to be both the fitteſt Gatherer and Compoſer too; which yet will require no great Cunning, after once he is acquainted with our Table and Catalogue.

We purpoſely, and in tranſitu only, take notice here of the Pickl'd, Muriated, or otherwiſe prepared Herbs; excepting ſome ſuch Plants, and Proportions of them, as are of hard digeſtion, and not fit to be eaten altogether Crude, (of which in the Appendix) and among which I reckon Aſh-keys, Broom-buds and Pods, Haricos, Gurkems, Olives, Capers, the Buds and Seeds of Naſturtia, Young Wall-nuts, Pine-apples, Eringo, Cherries, Cornelians, Berberries, &c. together with ſeveral Stalks, Roots, and Fruits; Ordinary Pot-herbs, Anis, Ciſtus Hortorum, Horminum, Pulegium, Satureia, Thyme; the intire Family of Pulſe and Legumena; or other Sauces, Pies, Tarts, Omlets, Tanſie, Farces, &c. Condites and Preſerves with Sugar by the Hand of Ladies; tho' they are all of them the genuine Production of the Garden, and mention'd in our Kalendar, together with their Culture; whilſt we confine our ſelves to ſuch Plants and Eſculenta as we find at hand; delight our ſelves to gather, and are eaſily prepar'd for an Extemporary Collation, or to Uſher in, and Accompany other (more Solid, tho' haply not more Agreeable) Diſhes, as the Cuſtom is.

But there now ſtarts up a Queſtion, Whether it were better, or more proper, to Begin with Sallets, or End and Conclude with them? Some think the harder Meats ſhould firſt be eaten for better Concoction; others, thoſe of eaſiest Digeſtion, to make way, and prevent Obſtruction; and this makes for our Sallets, Horarii, and Fugaces Fructus (as they call 'em) to be eaten firſt of all, as agreeable to the general Opinion of the great Hippocrates, and Galen, and of Celſus before him. And therefore the French do well, to begin with their Herbaceous Pottage, and for the Cruder, a Reason is given: