The Louvre has been so often described in works of so many different natures, descending the different grades from histories to pamphlets, that I shall not fatigue my readers with a too detailed review of its wonders, but endeavour to give them some impression of its grandeur, with as little prolixity as possible. I have already, in the historical sketch of Paris, touched upon its foundation, and the various epochs at which the different parts of the building were erected, and certainly let any one place himself in the middle of the grand court, and behold the four sides, and see if he can call to mind any thing equal to it, take it, for its all in all; I am well aware that there is rather a redundancy of ornament to satisfy the purest taste, and in that respect there is undoubtedly a deviation from perfection, but the approach is sufficiently near to excite the warmest admiration. Each side is 408 feet, and although there is a degree of uniformity, taken en masse, preserved, with two of the façades particularly, yet on examination the ornaments are found to be different, each side requires much close study after a coup-d'œil has been taken of the whole, and the more it is inspected, the more beautiful will it be found; the statues and different devices are by five different sculptors, the most celebrated of their day, the order of the pillars is generally corinthian, but there are some, which are composite. The external façades are by no means burthened with ornament, the north and western sides being perfectly plain, the south side has a noble effect, and faces the quay, having plenty of room to admit of its being properly viewed and justice rendered to its noble range of forty corinthian pilasters; this is by Perrault, as well as the eastern side, which is certainly one of the finest specimens of modern architecture that can be imagined.
A grand colonnade composed of 28 coupled corinthian columns has the most splendid effect, the basement story being perfectly simple, whilst the central mass of the building which forms the gateway is crowned by a pediment of stones, each 52 feet in length and three in thickness; all is vast, all is grand about this noble front, which is justly the admiration of every architectural connoisseur, no matter from what part of the world he may come.
Of the interior volumes might be said, I must first, after conducting my reader to the great door on the southern side of the building, direct his attention to the grand staircase, which is of a most splendid character, as to design, and consistently beautiful as to execution. The visiter after passing by a small room filled with very old paintings enters a larger when the grand gallery extends before him, which is unrivalled in the world, being above a quarter of a mile in length, and 42 feet in width, filled with paintings, principally from the old masters, but of them I will treat in a future chapter; it contains 1406 pictures some of them being of immense size. We will now pass on for the moment to the other apartments. The bed-room of Henry IV must arrest our attention, and the eye naturally falls on the alcove where his bed was placed, the oak carving, and gilded mouldings have been preserved exactly in the same state that they were when he died. We next proceed to a suite of rooms containing paintings of the Spanish, French, Flemish, and Italian schools; others devoted to drawings; of the latter there are 1293. Another range of apartments is on the ground floor and called the Museum of Antiquities, containing statues and various specimens of sculpture, in all 1,116 objects. Other suites of rooms are appropriated to Egyptian, Greek, and Roman antiquities, and in some of the apartments are objects of great value; that the amount of real worth of the contents of the Louvre must be incalculable, one casket alone of Mary de Medicis is estimated at several thousand pounds, and there are many articles equally costly. One portion of the building is devoted to every thing that concerns naval architecture and an immense variety of marine objects, with a number of curious models. The Louvre may be entered on presenting the passport, every day, and new wonders and beauties may be discovered at each visit, although they be repeated for months together.
We now pass on westward, and enter the Place du Carrousel, so called from Louis XIV having held a grand tournament there in 1662, but it was not then so extensive as at present. The triumphal arch erected by Napoleon in 1806, first strikes the eye a beautiful monument composed of different coloured marbles, of works in bronze with figures, and devices relative to war, and commemorative of the campaigns of the French army in 1805; all the different parts are admirable from the exquisite manner of their execution. On our left is the grand picture-gallery of the Louvre, communicating with the Tuileries, on the right, the same description of building exists in part, but is not yet completed. Before us spreads the extended dimensions of the palace of the Tuileries; with all deficiences it must be admitted that it is a noble pile, and has a grand, though heavy imposing air, the height of the roof is certainly a deformity, but we will enter the grand court-yard, which is separated from the Place du Carrousel by a handsome railing with gilt spear-heads, and then pass under the palace, and view the façade on the garden side, where the sameness of the building is relieved by a handsome colonnade in the centre, adorned with statues, vases, etc.; the wings also have a fine effect, they are more massive than the body of the building, which although not a beauty as respects the edifice in general, yet the execution of all the different parts is admirable in the identical detail; having a fair share of ornament not injudiciously disposed, situated as the Palace is seen, at the end of a splendid garden, it has a most striking and beautiful effect.
The interior contains many apartments which are, as might be expected, exceedingly handsome, one termed the Galerie de Diane is 176 feet long by 32 broad, it is of the time of Louis XIII, and rich in gilding and paintings, but generally the furniture is not so magnificent as might be imagined; those occupied by the Duke of Orléans are an exception; being very splendid. Amongst the numerous objects ofvertu which here abound is the large solid silver statue of Peace, presented to Napoleon by the city of Paris after the treaty of Amiens. The pictures are generally by the most eminent French artists. The Salle des Maréchaux contains the portraits of the living Marshals of France; Soult, Molitor, and Grouchy are the only remaining, whose names figured in the campaigns of Napoleon; on the whole it may be remarked that the apartments generally in the Tuileries are not equal in point of extent and decoration, to the saloons of many of the nobility of Paris. When the King is absent, the Palace may be viewed by applying to M. le Commandant du Château des Tuileries, and the same is the case with the apartments of the Duke of Orleans.
The gardens present a most agreeable aspect, although too stiff and formal to be in good taste, yet the mélange of noble high trees, wide gravel walks, marble basins, beautiful fountains, the most classic statues, beds of flowers, ornamental vases, and the commanding view to the Triumphal Arch, certainly form an ensemble which produces the most delightful sensation; in fact, I never enter them, such is the cheering effect upon me, without having but one unpleasant feeling, and that is, to think that I have not time to go there oftener, and pass hours amongst such charming scenes. To view the number of sweet merry looking children, with their clean and neat bonnes (nursery maids), all playing so happily together, enlivens the heart, then the retired walks between the dense foliage in the heat of summer invites the mind to meditation. The exquisitely beautiful statues are also most interesting objects of study, and I recommend them particularly to the attention of the visiter. On the northern side of the gardens, extends the handsome Rue Rivoli, with its noble colonnade; at No. 48, is the Hôtel des Finances, a spacious building covering a large extent of ground, containing several courts, with offices, and splendid apartments for the Minister. We shall now cross the Rue Rivoli, and take the Rue des Pyramides, also having an arcade all through the Rue St. Honoré, and facing us rises the noble church of St. Roch (vide page 97). The entrance is approached by a flight of steps, which have witnessed some sanguinary scenes, when Napoleon poured forth the iron hail of his artillery upon the opposing force which was there posted; again, in 1830, on the same spot, the people made a firm resistance against the gendarmerie of Charles X. The portal has two ranges of columns of corinthian and doric orders, the interior, although plain, has a fine appearance, heightened by the effect produced by many handsome monuments to illustrious characters who have been buried here, amongst the rest, Corneille; painting as well as sculpture has lent its aid in decorating this church, as it contains some fine pictures. The Royal Family attend here, and the music is very fine, but generally there are such crowds that it is difficult to enter. At No. 13 in the Rue d'Argenteuil, behind St. Roch, in 1684, Corneille died. A black slab in the court-yard bears an inscription and the bust of the poet.
Returning to the Rue St. Honoré, we proceed westward, and pass by the Rue Marché St. Honoré on our right, in which is a most commodious market. Pursuing our course we look down the Rue Castiglione, which communicates with the Rue Rivoli, and the Place Vendôme; it is remarkably handsome, and has a fine colonnade, at the corner is a fountain, which is plainer than they usually are, and a little farther to the west, at No. 369, is the Assomption (vide page 96). This church formerly belonged to a convent of nuns, styled Les Dames de l'Assomption, the remains may be perceived in the Rue Neuve du Luxembourg, and are now occupied as barracks. It was completed in 1676. It contains some interesting pictures. A chapel is contiguous, dedicated to St. Hyacinthe, which was erected in 1822. Continuing to follow the Rue St. Honoré, we cross the Rue Royale, displaying the fountains of the Place de la Concorde to our left, and the Madeleine on our right, we enter the Rue Faubourg St. Honoré, in which are many most superb hôtels, amongst the rest, the British Ambassador's, formerly the Hôtel Borghèse, occupied by the Princess Pauline, sister of Bonaparte; the next hôtel is that of the Baroness Pontalba, and is one of the most splendid in Paris, which the visiter must not fail to remark. We next come to the Palais de l'Elysée Bourbon, erected in 1718, and afterwards purchased and occupied by Madame de Pompadour, since when it has had many masters, amongst the rest, Murat, Napoleon, the Emperor of Russia, the Duke of Wellington, and the Duke de Berri, but it now belongs to the crown, and combines an appearance of splendid desolation, with a variety of associations, that cause us to muse on the fall of the great. The library which is over the council chamber was fitted up by Madame Murat, in the most exquisite style, as a surprise for her husband after his return from one of his campaigns; it next became the bed-room of Maria Louisa, and the birthplace of the daughter of the Duke and Duchess de Berri. Here also is shown the bed-room, and bed in which Napoleon last slept in Paris, after the battle of Waterloo. The building itself is handsome, and though not large, has an elegant appearance, some of the apartments are very splendid, but now having a solitary aspect. The garden, which is large, contains some noble trees, and is laid out in the Italian style. To see this Palace, apply for admission to M. l'Intendant de la Liste civile.
Facing the Elysée Bourbon, is the Hôtel Beauveau, in the Place Beauveau, occupied by the Neapolitan Ambassador. Still proceeding westward we come to the church St. Philippe du Roule, which was completed in 1784. It has but very little ornament, but is an exceedingly chaste production, the columns of the portico are doric, and those of the interior are ionic. It contains several good pictures. Nearly opposite is a handsome building with tuscan columns, and is used as stables for the King, and also a receptacle for his carriages. A short distance farther on is the Hôpital Beaujon, founded by the banker of that name in 1824, a handsome and well arranged building, having an air of health and cheerfulness; it contains 400 beds, and the situation is particularly salubrious, and so well ordered that the inspection of it will afford much gratification to the visiter. The Chapelle Beaujon, opposite, is by the same founder as the hospital, and may be considered as belonging to it.
We must now travel back as far as the British Ambassador's, and facing is the Rue d'Aguesseau, in which is the Episcopal Chapel, entirely appropriated to the English protestant worship, a building well adapted in every respect to the purposes for which it was erected. A few steps farther we turn to the right, which will bring us to the Rue de la Madeleine, in which we shall find the Chapelle Expiatoire, built over the spot where Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette were buried, immediately after their execution, and the interior is adorned by their statues; their remains were afterwards removed to St. Denis. This chapel is one of the most elegant and interesting monuments in Paris, it is in the form of a cross, with a dome in the centre. A short distance eastward, is the Collége Royal de Bourbon, No. 5, Rue St. Croix, which was built for a Convent of Capuchins, in 1781. It consists of a doorway in the centre, with columns, and two pavilions at the ends, one of which was the chapel of the convent, but is now the church St. Louis, a plain building of the doric order, but decorated by some fine fresco paintings, and four large pictures of saints, painted in wax. From hence we may take the Rue Joubert, opposite, and proceed until we arrive at the Rue de la Victoire, formerly called the Rue Chantereine, where resided Napoleon after his Italian campaign, and from hence went forth to strike the coup d'état which dissolved the government on the 18th Brumaire. The house was built for the famous dancer Guimard, then passed to Madame Talma, who sold it to madame Beauharnais, afterwards the Empress Joséphine, who added the pavilion at the nearer end. Bertrand inhabited this mansion a short time after his return from St. Helena, at present it is untenanted, and undergoing repair; it belongs to the widow of General Lefebvre Desnouettes. In the garden is a bust of Napoleon, which certainly possesses no great merit. If disposed to extend our walk, we may proceed northward to the Rue de Clichy and there find a prison for debtors, in an airy, healthy situation, which is satisfactory information for some of our prodigal countrymen, too many of whom, I regret to say, have been, and are still, inhabitants of this building, which contains from 150 to 200 persons. In returning we will amuse ourselves in wandering about many of the streets of the Chaussée-d'Antin, both right and left, which have in them some most beautiful houses decorated with statues and the most elaborate carve-work. On returning to the Boulevards by the Madeleine, as we pass along we notice the Hôtel des Affaires Etrangères, or residence of the Minister of Foreign Affairs, corner of the Rue Neuve-des-Capucines, formerly belonging to Marshal Berthier, we then proceed to the eastward, and turn down the Rue Neuve St. Augustin, which will bring us to the point where the streets La Michodière and Port Mahon meet, at the beautiful Fontaine de Louis-le-Grand, with the statue of a Genius striking at a dolphin, with consistent ornaments extremely well executed.
A matter of fact chapter, more useful than amusing; advice to Englishmen visiting or sojourning at Paris; several serviceable establishments recommended; hints as to management and economy.
Although I have already afforded my readers a transient glance at the Champs-Élysées on entering Paris, yet so charming a spot must not be passed over altogether in so hurried a manner; possessing as it does so many attractions for the happy portion of the Parisians, which do not only consist of its fine vistas of high trees, its broad walks, flowing fountains, etc., but a wide open space is left, where the people recreate themselves with athletic games, whilst in other parts there are swings, merry-go-rounds, shows, music, dancing, and every variety of amusement that can afford pleasure to those who are merrily inclined. Franconi has also a Theatre here for the display of horsemanship during the summer, which is extremely well conducted, and constantly filled. The prices are from 1 to 2 francs. In the south-western portion of the Champs-Élysées, is a quarter called Chaillot, in which is situated, at No. 78 bis, the Chapelle Marbœuf, where protestant service is regularly performed every Sunday. At No. 99 is Sainte Perine, a refuge for persons above 60 with small incomes, who by paying 600 francs a year, are comfortably provided for, or by depositing a certain sum at once, on entering. It was formerly a monastery, and can accommodate 180 men and women. The church of St. Pierre is a little farther on, in which there are a few pictures, and the choir is of the 15th century. There are a great number of very handsome houses about the Champs-Elysées; which is a favourite neighbourhood with the English, and it is an agreeable vicinity, on account of its airy position, its picturesque appearance, and affording pleasure in viewing the numbers who crowd there for the purpose of enjoyment, and with the determination to enjoy. It is also a fashionable resort for pedestrians, equestrians, and carriages, and whilst I am dilating on the attractions of the Champs-Elysées, I must not omit to direct the attention of my readers to the very delightful establishment which Doctor Achille Hoffman has formed in the Avenue Fortuné, which is called the Villa Beaujon, uniting within its interior every object desirable for health, comfort, and pleasure.
This establishment has been formed by the Doctor on such a system, as to render it in every respect a cheerful and agreeable residence for boarders; hence every rational and intellectual amusement is provided within its walls, a piano, and instruments for forming a quartetto, a billiard room, newspapers, periodical works, baths, etc., alternately present the inmates with a fund of amusement: possessing also the greatest advantage in having Madame Hoffman at the head of the establishment, who from the good society she has been accustomed to frequent, and her mental qualifications, is enabled, by her conversation, ever to cause the hours to pass most pleasantly with the residents of the Villa, to whose comforts, and wants, she pays the most unremitting attention, and unites the advantage of speaking English. Doctor Hoffman is willing to receive any patients except such as may be afflicted with either contagious complaints, or with mental alienation, and to attend them upon the homœpathic principles, in which he has attained considerable celebrity, having for many years practised upon that system with the greatest success. The apartments are fitted up in a style of elegance which at once convinces the spectator of the good taste of the director, and although they are numerous, each has its peculiar attraction, either in the view from the windows, or from the internal arrangement: but the quality which is most recommendable in this establishment, is the peculiar care which has been devoted to every minutia which can in any degree tend to comfort, and particularly for that season when it is most required, having by the means of two immense calorifères, so contrived that the whole house is warmed by a pure air, which is introduced from the garden, and conveyed not only into every apartment, but also to the staircases, corridors, and even into the closets, the degree of heat being regulated exactly to the grade desired; thus a person may pass a whole winter in this little Elysium, without ever feeling any of its baneful effects, which is a great desideratum for persons of delicate health, or having the slightest tendency to consumption, to whom the most powerful enemies are cold and damp, two intruders who are never permitted to enter under any pretext the Villa Beaujon.
For the pedestrian the greatest treat is afforded, as the neighbourhood consists of a most numerous variety of delightful walks, and for those who desire to enjoy the beauties of nature, without fatigue, the most favourable opportunity is offered, a terrace having been formed at the summit of the premises which commands a panoramic view for fifteen leagues round, comprehending within its circle an immense variety of villages, châteaux, hills, wood, water, and every description of picturesque scenery. There is also a garden prettily arranged, and kept in the nicest order, with kiosques and a jet d'eau, in fact there is no attraction omitted which could possibly contribute towards rendering the Villa a most desirable residence for every season; the charge is moderate, and the treatment in every respect the most liberal, the Doctor being in such a position that emolument is not an important object. Amongst other advantages which the establishment possesses, is that of always having one English servant. The situation which has been selected by the Doctor for his residence, is not only the most agreeable but considered decidedly one of the most healthy round Paris, as the few houses which are immediately around it are of the better order and environed by gardens, therefore the purity of the air is untainted by smoke or any effluvia arising from closely inhabited cities; indeed in that instance Paris has a great advantage over London, on account of wood being the principal fuel burnt in the former, and coal in the latter, hence Paris seen from a height, every object is visible from the clearness of the atmosphere, whilst London under the same circumstances is capped by a murky sort of cloud by which the greater part of the city is generally obscured.
Although the French capital is above three degrees south of the English, yet the former is colder in the winter, only that it is dryer, consequently more wholesome and the cold weather is of much shorter duration, as the springs are always finer and forwarder than in England, which is proved by the vegetables being much earlier in Paris, peas being sold cheap about the streets on the 20th or 25th of May, and other leguminous crops in proportion. The autumns are often very fine, generally, indeed, I have known the month of November to be quite clear and sunny, but of latter years the summers have been wet. The English in most instances have their health better in France than in England, which is considered to arise from several different causes; the lower and even some of the middle classes in London and other large towns are much addicted to drinking quantities of porter and ale, which are not so accessible in Paris or in any town in France; hence after a time they accustom themselves to the light wines of the country, and with the higher classes of English the case is nearly similar, as they renounce port, sherry, and Madeira, for Burgundy, Bordeaux, etc., and as a draught wine even good ordinaire, but a grand point is to obtain it of the best quality, proportioned to the price; perhaps there is not a town in the world where there are so many persons who sell wine as in Paris, but as there is a great deal of quackery and compounding practised, I must caution my countrymen not to purchase at any house to which they are not particularly recommended. I shall therefore advise them to give the preference to the old established house of Meunier, which has existed ever since 1800, now conducted by Messrs. Debonnelle et Guiard; I have myself long dealt there, as also my friends, and have ever found their prices the most reasonable, and the qualities unexceptionable; their tarif comprehends all descriptions of wine, and the charges in proportion, commencing on so moderate a scale that they are attainable to the most modest purse, and as there is no description of known wine which they do not possess, of course some there are at very high prices; the same case may be stated of their liqueurs, of which they have every variety. In this establishment persons may either be accommodated with a single bottle, or may purchase by the pipe, as they carry on an extensive wholesale business; their great warehouses are at Bercy which is the grand dépôt for the wine merchants of Paris. This is one of those houses to which I have before alluded as having, although nearly in the centre of the city, a delightful garden, and in the present instance quite a little aviary of canary and other birds, which is open to the street, situated No. 22, Rue des Saints-Pères, Faubourg St. Germain. The present proprietors were clerks in the house as long back as 1810, and have never since been absent from the business, which has been considerably augmented by their extreme attention and civility to their customers, and the reputation which they have acquired for keeping good articles, and vending them at fair prices.
As a great object of my work is to render it as serviceable as possible to my readers, I must not omit some cautionary remarks upon the tradespeople of Paris; an opinion has generally existed of their predisposition to overcharge the English, and in a great many instances it has been the case, when they first came over to France; an idea existed that they were extremely rich, and a bad feeling prevailed of making the wealthy pay: even amongst their own country people, they do the same, it is a common phrase with them, "Il est riche, alors faites-lui payer," "He is rich, so make him pay," and that system of calculating the weight of a person's means and making the charge, accordingly, is still followed in a degree; even the government have in some measure encouraged the practice, no doubt from a good motive, which has prompted them at certain periods to enforce regulations, that some articles should be sold for less to the poor, such as bread, and other necessaries of life. Another circumstance caused the French to continue their impositions upon the English, their having been duped by the latter, and in many instances to a considerable amount, as amongst the crowds who came over, were many persons who were not very scrupulous with respect to paying their debts, to whom the French willingly gave credit, the English name at that period having stood extremely high in the estimation of the French, but having sustained several losses on account of their too great facility in giving credit, they determined to make such of the English as they could attract, pay a portion towards what they had been mulcted by their runaway country-people. The French are not alone in that respect, as some of the fashionable tailors in London charge an immense price for their coats, because they say they only get paid for two out of three, therefore they make those pay dearly for such as do not pay at all.
The system now is rather better in Paris, so many shopkeepers having adopted the plan of selling at "Prix fixe" as they call it, which means fixed prices, from which they seldom or ever depart; but then there is a great difference with regard to the value of the articles in which they deal, some shops being infinitely cheaper than others, I therefore have been at considerable pains to discover those who conduct their business in an honourable manner and shall give my readers the benefit of my researches. With respect to provisions there certainly is a difference with regard to the quarters, which are the more or the less fashionable, the former being somewhat dearer than the latter, but there is a proportionate difference with regard to the quality, and therefore in some instances the higher priced articles are the cheapest in the end; for instance, M. Rolland, of No. 363, Rue St. Honoré, sells none but the very best meat; certainly in some of the obscurer parts of the town, and in the markets it is to be had cheaper; but the quality far inferior. I have heard the English complain of the meat not being so good in Paris as it is in London, but if they dealt with M. Rolland they could not in justice make the remark, he is always the possessor of the ox which is exhibited on Shrove Tuesday, and which weighed the last time nearly 4,000lbs; he retains a well executed portrait of it, which he shows to his customers, but he has often beasts approaching that weight, as about a dozen every year are fatted by the Norman graziers for the prize, and he is the principal purchaser; his other meat is proportionately fine, therefore I fancy that a good manager will find that economy is promoted by dealing with M. Holland in preference to any one who may sell at a nominally lower price.
Now that economy is on the tapis, I must endeavour to enlighten my reader as much on that head as I can, by giving him all the advantage of my own experience in the art, and as I am an old practitioner, I have the vanity to flatter myself that my advice on that score may count for something. On quitting England I advise my readers to disburthen themselves of all their clothes, except such as are absolutely requisite for travelling, and then on arriving at Paris to order those of which they may stand in need; indeed for myself, when I return to England I always provide a good stock of habiliments, convinced that the cloth procured in France is so much more durable than that obtained in England, and the workmen being paid much less, you have a superior article in France for a lower charge. As to the difference of fashion or cut, I leave that to be decided by a committee of dandies of the two countries, and to prevent my readers from getting into bad hands, I recommend them at once to M. Courtois, aux Montagnes Russes, No. 11, Rue Neuve-des-Petits-Champs, facing the Rue Vivienne, there the stranger is sure of being fairly treated with regard to the worth of the commodity, the solidity and neatness of the execution, and punctuality in the fulfillment of his engagements. The difference of prices between a fashionable London and Parisian tailor is immense, the former will make you pay 7l. 7s. for a coat of the best cloth, whilst M. Courtois only charges 100 francs (4l.) for the same article, equal in every respect, and furnishes every other description of clothing on equally moderate terms.
I shall now bid my reader to doff his hat, and obtain one that will sit so lightly on his brow, that he will scarcely be conscious that his head is covered, of which I had experience under circumstances rather ludicrous than otherwise. I entered a glover's shop with my mind I suppose occupied with divers meditations, and like a true uncourteous Englishman forgot to take off my hat to the Dame de Comptoir, as she is styled, but having obtained what I sought, in the act of departing I took up a hat which was on the counter, not dreaming that I had already one upon my head, but as I was making my obeissance to the mistress of the shop, she observed, very archly, that she should have thought Monsieur might be satisfied with having a hat on his head, without requiring to have one in his hand; surprised at finding myself absolutely committing a robbery, I made the best excuses the subject would admit, and retired after having furnished a subject of amusement for Madame, for Monsieur whose hat I had so illegally appropriated to myself, and to some pretty laughing-looking demoiselles who were ensconced behind a counter. These aerial hats are to be procured of M. Servas, No. 69, Rue Richelieu, who is the inventor, and for which he has received a medal from a scientific society, they are of so light and elastic a nature, that they do not cause the slightest pressure upon the brow, nor leave that unsightly mark upon the forehead, that is often a great annoyance to those gentlemen who object to having a stain upon the blanche purity of that feature, and as those who are tenacious in that respect must naturally be so with regard to the form and the material of which their hat is composed, they may rest assured on that point they will be suited in those of M. Servas, which have long had an acknowledged superiority and celebrity on that account, his establishment having for upwards of 30 years been famed under the firm of Coquel and Quesnoy, which by the ingenuity of his recent invention he has considerably augmented.
As I am now on a chapter devoted to usefulness, I must recommend my readers to get well and comfortably shod, particularly if they have any intention of visiting the monuments and antiquities I have described, for which purpose they must procure their shoes in Paris, the leather being prepared in such a manner as to render it infinitely more soft and flexible than it is in England, consequently one can walk twice the distance, without tiring, in French shoes, than one can in English; hence with the former all the tortures of new shoes are never felt, being fully as easy as an old pair of the latter, and for this purpose no one can better supply the article desired, than M. Deschamps, No. 14, Galerie d'Orléans, Palais-Royal, who stands so high in the estimation of my countrymen, that he is obliged to go to London twice a year to supply their demands. An attention to comfort in this respect is to me so essential, that in returning to England I always provide myself with a plentiful stock of boots and shoes, although not to the same degree that one of our celebrated tragedians practised this precaution, having furnished himself with thirty-six pair to the no small amusement of the Dover custom-house officers when they overhauled his luggage. One of the great advantages of the French shoes is that the upper leather never cracks nor bursts, and indeed I have not only found the material better, but also the workmanship. M. Deschamps has acquired much celebrity for the very elegant manner in which his shoes for balls and soirées are executed, after a system of his own, which have now become the fashion in all the saloons in Paris. Perhaps my readers may think I have devoted too much space to this subject, but being a great pedestrian, it is one of peculiar importance, to me (and it is so natural to judge every one by one's self), and in order to see all the interesting little bits of architectural antiquity, which are so numerous in Paris, the visit must be performed on foot, as it is sometimes requisite to go into little courts and alleys where no carriage can possibly enter; besides an antiquarian must peep and grope about in places where a vehicle would only be an incumbrance.
Whilst my memory is on, or, as some people would say, whilst my hand is in, I must not forget to recommend the stationer's shop, No. 159, Rue St. Honoré, next door to the Oratoire, as it is presumable that my readers, who intend to sojourn a while at Paris, must want to pay some visits, consequently will need visiting cards, with which they will provide themselves at the above establishment on terms so reasonable as quite to surprise a Londoner; also the visiter must write, and will here find an assortment of sixty different descriptions of English metal pens of Cuthbert's manufacture, and every variety of stationary that can be desired, and the manner in which they get up cards and addresses, with regard to the neatness of the engraving, printing, and quality of the card, is really surprising, for the price; whilst the mistress receives her customers with so much politeness, that having been once, is sure to prove the cause for other visits, when any of the articles in which she deals are required; and punctuality in the execution of the orders received is a quality to be met with in her, and in good truth, I cannot say much for the Parisians in general on that score, and one great cause is that they have too much business, and far more than they can attend to in a proper manner.
In the same street, at No. 416, is an establishment of which the English ought to be informed, being that of M. Renault, wherein good cutlery is to be obtained at very moderate prices; there is every variety that can be desired, either for the table or other purposes, all of the finest description; his shop is situated in the quarter most convenient for the English, being that in which they so frequently reside.
As health is a desideratum which is requisite for the pursuit of every occupation, and particularly for such as mean to enjoy Paris to its full extent, which will require a considerable degree of exercise, I must recommend the visiter a chymist and druggist on whom he may rely, where he may find the means of re-establishing any relaxation of strength or other malady to which all human nature is ever prone. There are innumerable establishments of this nature in Paris, and especially of those who announce English medicines, but the one which I have understood as possessing such as are truly genuine both in French and English pharmacy, is that of M. Joseau, and as a testimony of confidence in the respectability of his establishment, it has been made the chief depository of a medicine entitled the Copahine Mége, so particularly recommended by the Royal Medicine Academy of France, who have voted their thanks to the author, and granted him a patent for fifteen years, having proved so efficacious where patients have by their excesses deteriorated their health, and in fact, in all cases of blennorrhagies. M. Joseau may be also useful to my countrymen, who are in the habit of riding much on horseback, in providing them with belts of his own invention, which are made of India rubber, and in general use with the French cavalry. The establishment of M. Joseau is situated at No. 161, corner of the Rue Montmartre, and of the Gallery Montmartre, Passage Panorama, where my countrymen will be sure of meeting with the most assiduous attention, both from himself and his assistants, and that whatever they may require in his department will be of the best description, and at the most moderate prices; I know of no business whatever in which there is such an immense difference in the charges both in London and Paris, that it appears to me that chemists and druggists make you pay ad libitum, without having any fixed system, therefore I never enter any of their shops without I have had them particularly recommended.
Before I quit this chapter of shreds and patches, although of solid utility, a very useful establishment must be introduced to my readers, belonging to Messrs. Danneville, No. 16, Rue d'Aguesseau, Faubourg St. Honoré, facing the Protestant Chapel, consisting of every description of earthenware and crockery, on a very extensive scale, with a very quiet exterior, the premises having more the appearance of warehouses than shops; the assortment is quite of a multitudinous description, including vessels of the cheapest and most useful nature, at the same time containing numbers of superior articles, wherein extreme taste is displayed. The concern has been a long time established, and is quite in the centre of the quarter which such numbers of English choose for their residence; the proprietors are civil, quiet, unassuming people, and their articles exceedingly reasonable.
Novel introductions of different branches of industry.—Recent inventions.—Extensions of commerce in various departments.—Establishments of several new descriptions of business, now flourishing, and formerly unknown.
The commerce of Paris has now extended to so vast a scale, that it has become an immense entrepòt for all the productions and manufactures of France; the foreign merchant now feels that in visiting Paris he shall there find the cheapest, the choicest, and the most extensive assortment of all that the nature of the country, aided by art, is able to produce; he is aware that he need not repair to Lyons, to Lille, Rouen, or other manufacturing districts, for their respective articles, for which they are famed, as he knows that in the great emporium of the Continent, all that the ingenuity of man can produce will there be found. Independent of that advantage, there are many branches of industry confined to Paris, first invented within its walls, improved, and wrought to a state of perfection, which is unrivalled in any other capital, and affording employ to an immense number of hands, from the multitude of ramifications into which these branches diverge; so that Paris once principally celebrated as a city of pleasure and gaiety, still retaining that reputation, is now also renowned for its extraordinary manufactures, and the curious and splendid specimens of art and ingenuity emerging from its numerous ateliers, and which would require an extent far beyond the limits of this work, to give a just and accurate review of their merits; but some there are which being of a nature totally novel in the annals of commerce, and having merely been introduced within the last few years, we shall devote some space to their description in order to afford our readers an idea of their beauty and utility.
Amongst the various articles of the above description, none perhaps occupy a more prominent position for beauty, taste, and ingenuity, than the extraordinary variety displayed in what is termed fancy stationary, the fabrication of which is now extended to such a degree, as to have become an important branch of the commerce of Paris. Its introduction is but of recent date, as in the reign of Charles X all the paper required for notes, letters, dispatches, etc., was procured from England, on account of its extreme superiority over that of France; the Court never using any other, the example was followed not only by the major part of the French nobility, but by all foreigners of distinction who happened to be sojourning at Paris, hence the importation of paper from England was to a considerable amount. But when Louis Philippe came to the throne, he with his usual policy observed, that paper of French manufacture was good enough for his purposes, it was therefore adopted at the Court, and the noblesse and gentry, following in the same line, that encouragement was afforded to their countrymen, that engendered the idea of rendering their own paper so tasteful and elegant that now the affair is quite reversed, and England takes from France an immense quantity of this beautiful manufacture, which employs even artists of talent for designing the elegant and fanciful devices which ornament their envelopes, with their enclosures of various sizes and forms, in which the arts of drawing, painting, gilding, stamping, etc., combine to render them so pretty and so gay, that one feels loath to destroy any of these ornamental epistles, however trifling their import; the subjects of the devices are as various as those which they are intended to illustrate, history, the heathen mythology, religion, friendship, a more tender passion, etc., are all allegorically or emblematically represented, in the fancy stationary, offering the writer the means of choosing a subject consistent with the text of his letter, as an invitation to dinner is designated by paintings of pheasants, game, etc., to a soirée dansante, the note is adorned by couples waltzing, etc., to a whist party, the cards and players are introduced, and if to tea, the cups and saucers of gilded and glowing hue, bedeck the gay margin; so that before a word is written in the letter, it foretells its errand.
There are very many who have gradually contributed their talents to this branch of industry, but it is M. Marion who may be considered the inventor, he having availed himself with the most effect of their abilities, and concentrated their respective merits, in which he has displayed much perseverance, taste, and judgment, as also in the manner in which he has organised this branch of commerce, and promoted its extension. At his establishment at No. 14, Cité-Bergère, will be found a most extensive assortment of fancy stationary, comprehending every description of variety that the most fertile imagination could depict, the prices of ordinary paper commencing at the very humble price of six sheets for a sou, and according to the degree that it is ornamented, gradually rising to 25 francs a sheet. M. Marion has also an establishment in London, at No. 19, Mortimer Street, Cavendish Square, exactly on a similar plan as that in Paris, containing an equal variety of specimens of this new branch of art.
When the visiter has a half hour to spare, he would not find it thrown away in visiting the establishment of Madame Merckel, she having found the means of applying the phosphorus and chemical matches, which she has invented, to such a number of purposes, and of introducing them in so curious and ingenious a manner into divers articles, calculated both for utility and ornament, that her manufactory might be considered quite a little museum; amongst a variety of pretty things, I was first struck with a time-piece which acts as an alarum, and not only answers the purpose of awakening you at any hour which you may desire, but a little figure representing a magician, at the instant strikes a magic mirror, by which means the taper he holds is ignited, and with all possible grace, he presents you with a light just as you open your eyes. A night lamp next attracted me, which represented Mount Vesuvius, and the means by which it is lighted, proceeds from an enormous dragon emitting fire from his throat; this article is equally useful as a paper press. Another night lamp I found particularly elegant, though perfectly simple, consisting merely of a gilded branch, gracefully carved into a sort of festoon, from which was suspended a little lamp of most classic form. The inkstands consist of an indescribable variety, displaying all kinds of contrivances, some so portable as easily to go into the pocket, and containing instantaneous light on touching a spring, with pens, ink, seal and wax. Amongst the endless number of paper presses is one with a blacksmith, who, when light is required, strikes the anvil and fire appears; abundance of cigar stands with matches are arranged after a variety of whimsical methods, some of them very tasteful, and having quite an ornamental effect. Fortunately, Madame Merckel has in a great degree met with the reward her ingenuity merits, receiving the greatest encouragement from the public, and not only having had a patent granted her to protect her inventions, but she has also been presented with medals from three scientific Societies. As her prices are as various as the objects are numerous, every purse may be accommodated, as there are some as low as a sou, whilst there are others which rise as high as twenty pounds, the charge elevating according to the degree of ornament or utility. It appears surprising that a business which was not known until within the last few years should have risen to such importance, as Madame Merckel not only transmits her merchandise to every town in France, but also to the principal cities throughout Europe. The manufactory is No. 24, Rue du Bouloi, in the Cour des Fermes; there is besides a similar establishment in London, at No. 30, Edmund Place, Aldersgate Street, which is entirely furnished by Madame Merckel, possessing the same varied assortment, and undertaking to execute the same extent of supply.
How very simple are some descriptions of inventions, and how very simple one is apt to think one's self in not having before thought of that which appears so trifling and easy when once known. So it is with a sort of portable desk, invented by M. Tachet, for which he has procured a patent; it needs no table nor any kind of support, as the student places it under him, and his own weight keeps it perfectly firm and steady; the plane (on which he writes or draws) being attached to the part on which he sits, rises before him, capable of accommodating itself to such elevation as may be desired; its principal utility is for sketching from nature, but as females could not make use of this desk in the same manner as men, M. Tachet has also such as are adapted to their accommodation, the base lying on the lap, and fastened by a band round the waist, which keeps it perfectly firm. M. Tachet has also devoted much time and attention in forming a collection of angular and carved pieces of wood, shaped and finished with extreme neatness, describing almost every form that can well be imagined, and composed of such wood as has been so well seasoned that it can never warp, either ebony, box, pear-tree, or indeed of every different country which produces the hardest woods; they are particularly used by engineers and architects, for drawing plans or elevations of buildings, as every curve or angle of any dimensions which can be required, may be traced by these curved and angular rulers. In French, on account of the form resembling that of a pistol, the curved pieces are called pistolet, which comprehends a complete set, and great demands for them come from England. At the establishment of M. Tachet will also be found almost every article that is required by the artist, and it is in fact the only house in Paris where there is any certainty of procuring real English colours, as there are so many counterfeits of them exposed in almost all the colour-shops in Paris, with the names and arms upon them of some of the most eminent English colour manufacturers. But I can assure my countrymen that those they obtain from M. Tachet are genuine, and that they may deal with him in the same confidence as they would with what we call a true Englishman; he has likewise a most complete collection of mathematical instruments; his shop is situated at No. 274, Rue St. Honoré, at the bottom of the court-yard, and although it has not so brilliant an appearance as many establishments of the same nature, it is not the worse for its quiet exterior, but on the contrary, the same articles will be found with him at a more moderate charge than they ever can be procured of his dashing rivals.
Another branch of industry which has risen into extreme importance latterly is that of producing such exquisitely beautiful objects in cut glass, for which the establishment of Messrs. Lahoche-Boin and Comp. has for many years been celebrated, and ever conspicuous on account of its glass staircase, but I should be afraid to trust myself with beginning to describe the multitude of tasteful and elegant articles assembled in this exhibition (for it is really much more worthy of being so called than many that bear the name), lest I should be inveigled into too much prolixity. Into many of their richly wrought services of glass, gold is so happily introduced, that the two brilliant substances seem to sparkle in rivalry of each other, and the deeper tone of bronze sometimes lends its aid and heightens the effect of both. Glass is now appropriated to a variety of purposes, formerly never thought of, as balustrades, the handles of locks and plates to doors, instead of brass, and a number of other objects; indeed from this establishment there is always emanating something new, and for the beauty of the works which they displayed at a national exhibition of specimens of art and industry, they were awarded the gold medal. Amongst other articles which attract the attention in their splendid collection, are some of the most magnificent china vases, painted by talented artists in that department, also services of Sèvres porcelain for the table, in the taste of times past; others of glass, gilded and elaborately carved, which style was also much in vogue with our ancestors; some likewise of a more simple description but always possessing a degree of elegance which excites admiration. The proprietors of this concern are merchants of respectability, and besides furnishing the Royal Family of France, and several of the courts of Europe, they have transactions with most parts of the world, charging themselves with the execution of orders for any country, and requiring the remuneration of a very moderate commission. The establishment of Messrs. Lahoche-Boin and Comp. is at Nos. 152, 153, Palais-Royal, and the carriage entrance, No. 19, Rue de Valois. This is one of those houses in Paris (of which doubtless there are many) where the stranger may feel every confidence that he will meet with none but the most honourable treatment.
For those of my countrymen who like to proceed to the fountain head, and obtain articles from the manufacturer himself, instead of purchasing them of the shopkeeper who vends them at a higher price, I would recommend a visit to the establishment of M. Vincent, which is in fact like a little town, the number of warehouses, workshops, offices, etc., on the premises, amounting to no less than 84. In this manufactory an endless variety of articles are produced, consisting of every description of knick-knackery, if I may be allowed the term, as snuff-boxes, cigar-cases, memorandum books, souvenirs, bon-bon boxes, tablets, tooth-picks, card and needle-cases, pocket mirrors, housewives, paper presses, port-crayons, rulers, seals, musical snuff-boxes, etc., etc. The above articles being executed in every possible variety that can be imagined, of tortoise-shell, ivory, or mother of pearl, inlaid with gold and silver in the richest and most elaborate manner, miniature frames of every description, composed of fancy woods, with chased circles, metal gilt, stamped tortoise-shell, bronze and of every sort of material adapted for the purpose, albums and pocket-books in great variety, dressing-cases both for ladies and gentlemen, tea caddies, work-boxes, and an infinity of articles too numerous to recapitulate, for some of which patents have been obtained. It is from this establishment that most of the showy shops in Paris, who deal in articles of the same nature, are provided, hence much economy is effected by purchasing of M. Vincent, the profit of the shopkeeper being saved by procuring the object from the manufacturer. Tradesmen who come to Paris from London, would find their interest in applying to this establishment, where they could obtain the goods they require of the descriptions stated, at considerably more advantageous terms than from other quarters. I will cite one article which will prove how very low are the charges compared to what we are accustomed to in London; the musical mechanism of a snuff-box, 10 francs (eight shillings) playing two airs, rising gradually in price to 90 francs, or about 3l. 12s. playing six tunes, which of course can be afterwards set in any description of box which the purchaser chooses, of gold, silver, or tortoise-shell, as fancy directs. All other articles sold by M. Vincent are equally reasonable. His residence is No. 4, Rue de Beauce, at the corner of the Rue de Bretagne, near the Temple, certainly not in a very desirable neighbourhood, but manufactories are seldom carried on in the most agreeable vicinities.
An art which has been recently brought to an astonishing degree of perfection in Paris, is that of dyeing, cleaning, scouring, and restoring almost all descriptions of habiliments; this has been effected by M. Bonneau, but not until he had visited the principal manufacturing towns, and had passed many years in studying the art scientifically, aided by persevering researches into the depths of chymistry, to which he is indebted for being able to perform that which has not until now been accomplished. I have seen instances of a soiled, faded, cashmere shawl, almost considered beyond redemption, committed to his charge, and reappear so resuscitated that the owners could scarcely believe it was the same dingy, deplorable-looking affair they had sent a fortnight before. The same power of restoring is effected upon all descriptions of satin, even that of the purest white, which, although so soiled as to be of a dirty yellow colour, is brought forth perfectly clean and with all its original lustre; with silks, merinos, gros de Naples of the tenderest tints, the process adopted is equally successful; blonde, guipure, and all descriptions of lace, no matter how discoloured, are restored to their original whiteness. With the apparel of men, the same advantages are obtained, silk, cashmere, velvet, and other waistcoats that many would throw aside as totally spoiled, or too shabby to be worn any longer, by being sent to M. Bonneau, are returned, having the appearance of being quite new. His establishment, at No. 17, Rue Lepelletier, just facing the French Opera, is well known to many English families; but having heard so much of the wonders he performed in reviving the lost colours of the elaborate borders of ladies' cashmeres, and rendering them their pristine brilliance, I determined to visit his premises, upon which he carried on his operations, in the Rue de Bondy, No. 40. I there found everything conducted upon a most methodical system of regularity and order, each room was appropriated to its peculiar department, and heated and ventilated by a certain process, and that which does M. Bonneau much honour, is, that all is so arranged, with the utmost consideration for the health of his work-people, by taking care that they shall be kept as dry as possible, and that a proper degree of warmth and air shall be admitted into every chamber. When required, M. Bonneau sends his men to clean furniture at persons' houses, which would be rather incommodious to remove. When any article is sent to him, the bearer is informed what day it will be completed, and is sure not to be deceived, and he has an apartment so arranged for preserving whatever is confided to him, from any injury which might be caused by moths or other insects.
Amongst those articles for which France used to depend upon England, but wherein the case is reversed by England taking from France, is that of pencil-cases, in which small pieces of lead are inserted, and emitted or withdrawn at pleasure; numbers of these formerly were sent from London and Birmingham to Paris, but recently M. Riottot has invented and obtained a patent for a pencil-case which has a little elastic tube of tempered steel placed at the end which is used, and into which the lead is inserted, and tightly held within it, so that there is no risk of breaking, either in the act of fixing in the lead, or from its afterwards shaking, the steel tube operating as a spring, retains it so firmly that it remains, even whilst writing with it, perfectly immoveable; these are arranged in gold or silver cases, more or less ornamental as may be required, and are found so infinitely more serviceable than those on the former principle, that as they are becoming more known in England, the demand for them continues to increase. The term by which they are designated, is Porte Crayon à Pince élastique; their advantages are such as tend to economy, as they are neither liable to fall out nor break, besides the convenience of their never moving about whilst one is using them, to which the previous system was constantly liable. M. Riottot has also an assortment of pens and pen-holders, either plated or of silver or gold, richly chased or simple, with a variety of seals and other articles; he likewise retains a stock of lead, properly prepared for inserting into the pencil-cases. His address is at No. 27, Rue Phélippeaux, Passage de la Marmite, Escalier A, completely in the quarter of Paris inhabited by the operatives, surrounded by workshops of different descriptions, not exactly calculated for very delicate ladies.
For the benefit of a little purer air, we will quit the working mechanics' rendez-vous, and take a lounge in the Palais-Royal, and as soon as we breathe a little freely, we will examine the engraved seals of M. Leteurtre-Maurisset, No. 33, Galerie d'Orléans, which, from the extreme delicacy of the execution, are objects well worth attention; his talents in this department have obtained him the distinction of being engraver to the Chamber of Deputies and to the royal museums; some of his specimens of armorial bearings, his designs for stamping impressions, in relief and heraldric devices, are extremely clever; he engraves on stones of different descriptions, with equal accuracy and on any kind of metal, as plates for visiting cards, etc., and whatever he undertakes he executes in the most perfect manner, that the nature of the work will admit. As he is attached to his profession, however trifling the order he may receive, he enters into it with the same zest as if it were of the first importance, of course it is engraving subjects for seals in which he finds the most pleasure, as it is in those that he has the greatest scope for the display of his abilities, and seldom fails to excel.
Although the progress which France has made in almost every branch of industry is most extraordinary, yet none is so striking as the advance which has been effected in cutlery, as I well remember when I first came to France, it was a common joke amongst the English, when speaking of the rarity of an object, to observe that it was as scarce as a knife in France that would cut, its appearance also was as dull as its edge, soon however their cutlery, with their ideas, began to brighten, and to sharpen; but even as recently as 1830, they were still so outshone by England, that if it was known that you were going from Paris to London, with the intention of returning, every lady asked you to bring her a pair of scissors, every man a pair of razors, and by all medical friends you were assailed to bring them over lancets or other machines for cutting and maiming human flesh; thanks to the genius, talents, and perseverance of M. Charrière, one is no longer troubled with such commissions, he having improved every description of surgical instruments to such a degree of perfection, that now many of our English surgeons provide themselves from his establishment on returning to England; not only has M. Charrière produced every variety of instrument used by our faculty, but he has invented several others, which have merited and obtained the thanks of his country, with letters and medals from several scientific societies. Even foreigners from all parts of Europe, from America, and from the East, are now becoming acquainted with the utility of his inventions, which are already well known in London and Edinburgh, and will soon be as much in demand in England as they are now in France. Some idea may be formed of how far M. Charrière has raised this branch of industry, when it is stated that but a few years since, the whole number of workmen occupied in this department was but 30 and now he alone employs 150! M. Charrière in fact possesses one quality which generally ensures success, a passion for his art; he is not to be regarded simply as a vender of cutlery, but as one possessing a scientific knowledge of his profession, and as a mechanic of considerable talent. To recapitulate all his inventions, with their respective merits, and the approbatory letters that he has received from different academical institutions, would half fill my little volume; suffice it to say that he is the only person in his business, to whom has ever been awarded the gold medal; besides which, the Royal Academy of Sciences have presented him with 1800 francs, for the improvement he has effected in surgical instruments. There is scarcely a disease and certainly not a single operation that can be performed on the human frame, for which M. Charrière has not the requisite materials in the utmost perfection, even for the fabrication of artificial noses; and for one invention he merits the gratitude of all mothers, the biberon, a machine for the purpose of supplying an infant with milk, when circumstances prevent the mother from affording that nourishment. This instrument is so contrived that the part which meets the lips is in point of texture exactly the same as that which nature provides, uniting an equal degree of softness and elasticity, that the child takes to the substitute, with the same zest as if it were the reality. I have known instances where the lives of children have been saved by this machine, the parents declaring to me that such was the case, and that they considered that every mother ought to be provided with so useful an instrument. The address of M. Charrière is No. 9, Rue de l'Ecole-de-Médecine. A variety of cutlery is kept of as perfect a description as those articles for which he has attained so high a celebrity.
It has generally in modern days been a reproach to France, that she has been rather lax in regard of religious matters; what there may be in the hearts of the inhabitants of that or other countries I shall not presume to give an opinion, but can only say that I find the churches in Paris, both protestant and catholic, always during service time nearly full, and many to overflowing. Not only that, but the French are much attached to holy associations, hence the prints of our Saviour, the Virgin, and the Saints, have a most inexhaustible sale; I need give my readers no greater proof than recommending them to visit the establishment of M. Dopter, No. 21, Rue St. Jacques, they will there find amongst his immense collection of engravings and lithographies, the portrait of every saint that ever was heard of, an innumerable variety of religious subjects for which there is a most extensive and incessant demand. Some of these are stamped and illuminated in a most splendid manner, and I verily believe there is scarcely a subject connected with the christian religion, of which M. Dopter has not a representation; his establishment is therefore known throughout all France, and many parts of Europe, to which he transmits numbers of his publications.
He likewise has a most useful assortment of maps and geographical illustrations, with portraits of celebrated characters, particularly those connected with the campaigns and adventures of Napoleon, as also his battles, and remarkable events of his life, as well as a great diversity of historical subjects, landscapes, academical studies, etc., etc.; M. Dopter is also the inventor of the new style of covers for binding, of which the present volume is a specimen, having them of an innumerable variety of patterns, and of every size likely to be demanded.
It has often struck me that maps were very incomplete, in consequence of their not being capable of giving the degrees of elevation of hills or mountains except in a very inefficient manner; the same idea, I suppose, actuated M. Bauerkeller, and induced him to invent those maps in relief, which are now becoming so generally demanded, as giving such an accurate illustration of the surface of a country, which is most beautifully exemplified in many of his specimens, but most particularly in that of Switzerland; every object having a degree of elevation proportioned to the reality, and coloured in a great measure similar to the subject intended to be represented, thus the snow-capped mountains of Switzerland have their white summits distinctly expressed, their blue lakes, their green meadows, grey rocks, etc., given with such fidelity, that a person obtains a most perfect notion of regions he may never have an opportunity to visit. This system of forming maps or plans upon embossed paper, is peculiarly applicable to cities, as the public buildings appear to such advantage, and M. Bauerkeller has already executed those of London, Paris, St. Petersburg, Vienna, New York, the city of Mexico, Hamburg, Basle, a Panorama of the Rhine from Coblentz to Mayence, besides several other cities and countries, and there is no doubt that in a short time the whole of Europe and many other distant districts will be illustrated in the same manner, as he is constantly adding to his collection which already excites the highest interest. M. Bauerkeller's plan of executing charts, maps, or views in relief, can be equally produced either upon velvet, silk, or leather, for the illustration of a diversity of subjects which can be applied to an innumerable variety of purposes, as shades for lamps, men's caps, slippers, reticules, stands for decanters, screens, etc., etc.; already he has extended his connexions to such a degree that he receives applications from all parts of Europe and America for different articles in which his invention is introduced. Some of his works which were displayed at the national exhibition excited universal admiration, and obtained him a medal; he has also been granted a patent for fifteen years. This invention is not only valuable in having rendered maps more ornamental, but it assists the study of geography; by the objects being rendered so much more distinct, it increases the interest and consequently makes a deeper impression on the memory; in fact, the numerous advantages to be derived from this system of giving plans in relief may be easily imagined, but are too long to be described. A specimen of the art will be found at the beginning of this work: M. Bauerkeller's address is No. 380, Rue St. Denis, Passage Lemoine.
Amongst the number of inventions which are constantly emanating from the brain of man, I know of few which unite more ingenuity, utility, and simplicity than that of M. Martin (gun-maker at No. 36, Rue Phélippeaux), relative to the improvement of every description of gun that is impelled by percussion. According to the system he has introduced, and for which he has obtained a patent, all the inconvenience to which the sportsman is subjected in priming is entirely obviated, as instead of having to place the percussion cap with one's fingers, so disagreeable in very cold weather, it is at once effected by the act of cocking, and the gun may be fired from 80 to 100 times, always as it were priming itself, as the number of percussion caps required are introduced through the butt, and conducted to the point desired. The method of inserting the percussion caps is perfectly easy; pressing a little button or nut at the bottom of the butt causes a plate to open, when two spiral wire-springs must be taken out, as also a moveable tube, from the interior of the gun, and the latter filled with percussion caps, which must be poured into fixed tubes which communicate with the anvil; they may contain from 40 to 50 each; when this number is introduced replace the spiral wire-springs which press the percussion caps exactly, regularly and successively as they are needed to the point desired, then fasten in the springs with the little hook attached for that purpose, lastly replace the moveable tube and shut the plate at the bottom of the butt. This process is executed in a far shorter time than it can be described. The immense advantage of this invention may not appear at the first view; but when it is considered how much more rapid may be the fire of an army in consequence of the time gained, which would be occupied in priming, the power it will give them over an enemy must be evident, and there is no doubt but that in a very short time they will be universally adopted. All such of my countrymen who come to Paris I would recommend to call on M. Martin; he will give them every possible explanation on the subject in the most obliging manner, and also give them practical evidence of the manner in which it operates.
However deficient the French were until a very few years since in almost every thing which relates to mechanics, yet in some articles they have now made such rapid strides, that it becomes a question whether they will not surpass us, if we do not exert the same energy in the spirit of improvement with which they have been recently actuated. Formerly the inferiority of French pianos to ours was most evident, and perhaps, generally speaking, I should still say it was the case, but there are a few manufacturers, the tone of whose instruments is superb; of such a description are those of M. Soufleto. It is really surprising how he has been enabled, in a small upright piano, to produce the force and depth of tone which he has found the means of uniting in comparatively so small a volume, the bass having absolutely the power and roundness of an organ; but that part of an instrument which most frequently fails, is that which is composed of the additional keys or the highest notes, which are apt to be thin and wiry, but with Mr. Soufleto's pianos it is not the case, the tone being soft and full, with a proportionate degree of force with the rest of the instrument. His merit has been duly acknowledged, having not only received the King's patent, but having been twice presented with medals, and appointed manufacturer to the Queen. As most English families who come to Paris for the purpose of residing or sojourning for a certain time, are desirous of hiring or purchasing a good piano, I can assure them that such they will find at M. Soufleto's, No. 171, Rue Montmartre, and that his terms are extremely moderate in consideration of the excellence of his instruments.
I am sure my readers will approve of my directing their attention to the establishment of M. Richond, styled the Phœnix, No. 17, Boulevard Montmartre, near the Rue Richelieu. They will there find such a splendid assortment of time-pieces, as constitutes a most beautiful sight, equally gratifying to the artist and the amateur, many of the subjects being perfectly classic, and exhibiting the tastes and costumes of different ages; some of these magnificent time-pieces are adorned with figures, either bronze or gilded, representing historical characters, after the designs of the first masters, which are most admirably executed, and indeed there is such a variety of subjects, that one might pass hours in the shop, deriving the greatest pleasure from the examination of so many interesting subjects. It is also a satisfaction to know that the works of M. Richond's time-pieces are equal to their external beauty. In fact it is a house that has been long established and has ever supported a good name, having a considerable connexion, not only throughout France, but in foreign countries, particularly with England, and is by far the most recommendable of any in Paris in that line of business. Every object has the price marked upon it, which is always adhered to, and the charges are as moderate as could possibly be expected from the superiority of the articles over those which are sold in so many other shops in Paris; some time-pieces there are which of course amount to a high price, consistent with their splendour. There is a stamp fixed by government upon the internal works of each time-piece, to prove that it is verified as being of the best quality. M. Richond undertakes, at his own risk, the conveyance of time-pieces to London which have been purchased at his shop, and warrants them against any accident which may happen to the works in travelling, having a correspondent in London who is in the same business, and is commissioned to execute any repairs which may be requisite.