When visiting the old Delhis it is a good plan to drive again through the City and to leave it by the Delhi Gate. Humáyun's tomb, an early and simple, but striking, specimen of Moghal architecture, is reached at a distance of four miles along the Mathra road. Outside the City the road first leaves on the left side the ruined citadel of Firoz Sháh containing the second Aşoka pillar. North and south of this citadel the town of Firozábád once lay. It ended where the Puráná Kila' or Old Fort, the work of Sher Sháh and Humáyun, now stands, a conspicuous object from the road about three miles from Delhi. The red sandstone gateway very narrow in proportion to its height is a noble structure, and within the walls is Sher Sháh's mosque. The fort and mosque are the last important works of the second or Tughlak period. Hindus call the site of the Old Fort, Indarpat. If any part of Delhi has a claim to antiquity it is this, for it is alleged to be one of the five "pats" or towns over which the war celebrated in the Mahábhárata was waged. A recent cleaning of part of the interior of the fort brought to light bricks belonging to the Gupta period. From Humáyun's tomb a cross road leads to the Gurgáon road and the Kutb. But the visitor who has seen enough of buildings for the day may proceed further down the Mathra road and reach the headworks of the Agra Canal at Okhla by a side road. The view looking back to Delhi up the Jamna is fine.

The Kutb Minár.—Starting for the Kutb from Humáyun's tomb (page 207) the Dargáh of the great Chistí saint and political intriguer, Nizám ud dín Aulia, is passed on the left. He died in 1324 A.D. Just at the point where the cross road meets the Gurgáon road is the tomb of Safdar Jang, the second of the Nawáb Wazírs of Oudh. He died after the middle of the eighteenth century, and the building is wonderfully good considering that it is one of the latest important monuments of the Moghal period. Six miles to the south of Safdar Jang's tomb the entrance to the Kutb Minár enclosure is reached. The great Kuwwat ul Islám mosque of Kutbuddín Aibak (page 204) was constructed out of the materials of a Jain temple which stood on the site. Evidence of this is to be found in the imperfectly defaced sculptures on the pillars. An iron pillar nearly 24 feet in height dating back probably to the sixth century stands in the court. The splendid column known as the Kutb Minár (page 205), begun by Kutbuddín and completed by his successor Shams ud dín Altamsh, was the minaret of the mosque from which the mu'azzin called the faithful to prayer. The disappointment that may be felt when it is seen from a distance is impossible on a nearer view. Its height is now 238 feet, but it was formerly surmounted "by a majestic cupola of red granite." Close by is the Alai Darwaza, a magnificent gateway built by Alá ud dín Tughlak in 1310, about 90 years after the Minár was finished. Five miles east of the Kutb are the cyclopean ruins of Tughlakábád (page 206).

Delhi past and present.—The Delhi of Aurangzeb was as much a camp as a city. When the Emperor moved to Agra or Kashmír the town was emptied of a large part of its inhabitants. It contained one or two fine bazárs, and nobles and rich merchants and shopkeepers had good houses, set sometimes in pleasant gardens. But the crowds of servants and followers occupied mud huts, whose thatched roofs led to frequent and widespread fires. In that insanitary age these may have been blessings in disguise. "In Delhi," wrote Bernier, "there is no middle state. A man must either be of the highest rank or live miserably.... For two or three who wear decent apparel there may always be reckoned seven or eight poor, ragged, and miserable beings." The ordinary street architecture of modern Delhi is mean enough, and posterity will not open an eyelid to look at the public buildings which its present rulers have erected in the city. But at least the common folk of Delhi are better housed, fed, and clad than ever before. It is now a clean well-managed town with a good water supply, and it has become an important railway centre and a thriving place of trade. Since 1881 the population has steadily increased from 173,393 to 232,837 in 1911. In 1911-12 the imports into Delhi City from places outside the Panjáb amounted to 9,172,302 maunds. There are some fifteen cotton ginning, spinning, and weaving mills, besides flour mills, iron foundries, two biscuit manufactories, and a brewery. The city is well supplied with hospitals including two for women only. Higher education has been fostered by S. Stephen's College in charge of the Cambridge Missionary brotherhood. The Hindu college has not been very successful. Delhi has had famous "hakíms," practising the Yúnáni or Arabic system of medicine, which is taught in a flourishing school known as the Madrasa i Tibbiya.

Imperial Darbárs.—In this generation the plain to the north of the Ridge has been the scene of three splendid darbárs. When on 1st January, 1877, Queen Victoria assumed the title of Empress of India (Kaisar i Hind) it seemed fitting that the proclamation of the fact to the princes and peoples of India should be made by Lord Lytton at the old seat of imperial power. On 1st January, 1903, Lord Curzon held a darbár on the same spot to proclaim the coronation of King Edward the VIIth. Both these splendid ceremonies were surpassed by the darbár of 12th December, 1911, when King George and Queen Mary were present in person, and the Emperor received the homage of the ruling chiefs, the great officials, and the leading men of the different provinces. The King and Queen entered Delhi on 7th December, and in the week that followed the craving of the Indian peoples for "darshan" or a sight of their sovereign was abundantly gratified. None who saw the spectacles of that historic week will ever forget them.

Early History.—Practically we know nothing of its history till Mahmúd conquered the Panjáb and put a garrison in a fort at Lahore. Henceforth its history was intimately connected with Muhammadan rule in India. Whether north-western India was ruled from Ghazní or from Delhi, the chief provincial governor had his headquarters at Lahore. In the best days of Moghal rule Agra and Lahore were the two capitals of the Empire. Lahore lay on the route to Kábul and Kashmír, and it was essential both to the power and to the pleasures of the Emperors that it should be strongly held and united to Delhi and Agra by a Royal or Bádsháhí Road. The City and the Suburbs in the reign of Sháhjahán probably covered three or four times the area occupied by the town in the days of Sikh rule. All round the city are evidences of its former greatness in ruined walls and domes.

The Civil Station.—The Anárkalí gardens and the buildings near them mark the site of the first Civil Station. John Lawrence's house, now owned by the Rája of Punch, is beyond the Chauburjí on the Multán Road. The Civil Lines have stretched far to the south-east in the direction of the Cantonment, which till lately took its name from the tomb of Mian Mír, Jahangír's spiritual master. The soil is poor and arid. Formerly the roads were lined with dusty tamarisks. But of late better trees have been planted, and the Mall is now quite a fine thoroughfare. The Lawrence Hall Gardens and the grounds of Government House show what can be done to produce beauty out of a bad soil when there is no lack of water. There is little to praise in the architecture or statuary of modern Lahore. The marble canopy over Queen Victoria's statue is however a good piece of work. Of the two cathedrals the Roman Catholic is the better building. The Montgomery Hall with the smaller Lawrence Hall attached, a fine structure in a good position in the public gardens, is the centre of European social life in Lahore. Government House is close by, on the opposite side of the Mall. Its core, now a unique and beautiful dining-room with domed roof and modern oriental decoration, is the tomb of Muhammad Kásim Khán, a cousin of Akbar. Jamadár Khushál Singh, a well-known man in Ranjít Singh's reign, built a house round the tomb. After annexation, Henry Lawrence occupied it for a time, and Sir Robert Montgomery adopted it as Government House. It is now much transformed. Beyond Government House on the road to the Cantonment are the Club and the Panjáb Chiefs' College, the only successful attempt in Lahore to adapt oriental design to modern conditions.

The Indian City.—In its streets and bazárs Lahore is a truly eastern city, and far more interesting than Delhi, so far as private buildings are concerned. In public edifices it possesses some fine examples of Moghal architecture. Every visitor should drive through the town to the Fort past Wazír Khán's mosque. Under British rule the height of the city wall has been reduced by one-half and the moat filled in and converted into a garden. Wazír Khán's mosque founded in 1634 by a Panjábí minister of Sháhjahán, is a noble building profusely adorned with glazed tiles and painted panels. The Golden Mosque was constructed 120 years later about the same time as Safdar Jang's tomb at Delhi. The palace fort, built originally by Akbar, contains also the work of his three successors. The Shísh Mahal or Hall of Mirrors, which witnessed the cession of the Panjáb to the Queen of England, was begun by Sháhjahán and finished by Aurangzeb. The armoury contains a curious collection of weapons. The Bádsháhí Mosque opposite with its beautiful marble domes and four lofty minarets of red sandstone was founded in 1673 in the reign of Aurangzeb. The cupolas were so shaken by an earthquake in 1840 that they had to be removed. Mahárája Ranjít Singh used the mosque as a magazine. In the space between it and the Fort he laid out the pretty orange garden known as the Huzúrí Bágh and set in it the marble báradarí which still adorns it. Close by are his own tomb and that of Arjan Dás, the fifth Guru.

Buildings outside Lahore.—The best example of Moghal architecture is not at Lahore itself, but at Shahdara across the Ráví. Here in a fine garden is the Mausoleum of Jahángír with its noble front and four splendid towers. It enshrines an exquisite sarcophagus, which was probably once in accordance with the Emperor's wish open to the sunlight and the showers. Near by are the remains of the tombs of his beautiful and imperious consort, Nur Jahán, and of her brother Asaf Khán, father of the lady of the Táj. Another building associated with Jahángír is Anárkali's tomb beside the Civil Secretariat. The white marble sarcophagus is a beautiful piece of work placed now in most inappropriate surroundings. The tomb was reared by the Emperor to commemorate the unhappy object of his youthful love. Half-a-mile off on the Multán road is the Chauburjí, once the gateway of the Garden of Zebunnissa a learned daughter of Aurangzeb. The garden has disappeared, but the gateway, decorated with blue and green tiles, though partially ruined, is still a beautiful object. On the other side of Lahore on the road to Amritsar are the Shalimár Gardens laid out by Sháhjahán for the ladies of his court. When the paved channels are full and the fountains are playing, and the lights of earthen lamps are reflected in the water, Shalimár is still a pleasant resort.

The Museum in Anárkalí contains much of interest to Indians and Europeans. The "house of wonders" is very popular with the former. It includes a very valuable collection of Buddhist sculptures. Opposite the museum is the famous Zamzama gun (page 187).

Growth of Lahore. As the headquarters of an important Government and of a great railway system Lahore has prospered. Owing to the influx of workers the population has risen rapidly from 157,287 in 1881 to 228,687 in 1911. The railway alone affords support to 30,000 people, of whom 8000 are employed in the workshops.

Amritsar (31.38 N., 74.53 E.) is a modern town founded in the last quarter of the sixteenth century by the fourth Guru, Rám Dás, on a site granted to him by Akbar. Here he dug the Amrita Saras or Pool of Immortality, leaving a small platform in the middle as the site of that Har Mandar, which rebuilt is to-day, under the name of the Darbár Sáhib, the centre of Sikh devotion. The fifth Guru, Arjan Dás, completed the Har Mandar. Early in the eighteenth century Amritsar became without any rival the Mecca of the Sikhs, who had now assumed an attitude of warlike resistance to their Muhammadan rulers. Once and again they were driven out, but after the victory at Sirhind in 1763 they established themselves securely in Amritsar, and rebuilt the temple which Ahmad Sháh had burned. Ranjít Singh covered the Darbár Sáhib with a copper gilt roof, whence Englishmen commonly call it the Golden Temple. He laid out the Rám Bágh, still a beautiful garden, and constructed the strong fort of Govindgarh outside the walls.

Trade and Manufactures.—Amritsar lies in a hollow close to a branch of the Upper Bárí Doáb Canal. Waterlogging is a great evil and accounts for the terrible epidemics of fever, which have occurred from time to time. The population has fluctuated violently, and at the last census was 152,756, or little larger than in 1881. Long before annexation the shawl industry was famous. The caprice of fashion a good many years ago decreed its ruin, but carpet weaving, for which Amritsar is still famous, fortunately did something to fill the gap. Amritsar has also been an entrepôt of trade with other Asiatic countries. It has imported raw silk from Bokhára, and later from China, and woven it into cloth. It has dealt in China tea, but that is a decreasing trade, in opium from Afghánistán, and in charas from Central Asia. There is a considerable export of foreign piece goods to Kashmír and the N. W. F. Province.

Multán (30.1 N., 71.3 E.), though now the smallest of the four great towns of the Panjáb, is probably the most ancient. It is very doubtful whether it is the fortress of the Malloi, in storming which Alexander was wounded. But when Hiuen Tsang visited it in 741 A.D. it was a well-known place with a famous temple of the Sun God. Muhammad Kásim conquered it in 712 A.D. (page 166). It was not till the savage Karmatian heretics seized Multán towards the end of the tenth century that the temple, which stood in the fort, was destroyed. It was afterwards rebuilt, but was finally demolished by order of Aurangzeb, who set up in its place a mosque. Under the Moghals Multán was an important town, through which the trade with Persia passed. Its later history has already been noticed (pages 183 and 186).

The Fort contains the celebrated Prahládpurí temple, much damaged during the siege in 1848, but since rebuilt. Its proximity to the tomb of Baháwal Hakk, a very holy place in the eyes of the Muhammadans of the S.W. Panjáb and Sindh, has at times been a cause of anxiety to the authorities. Baháwal Hakk and Bába Faríd, the two great saints of the S.W. Panjáb, were contemporaries and friends. They flourished in the thirteenth century, and it probably would be true to ascribe largely to their influence the conversion of the south-west Panjáb to Islám, which was so complete and of which we know so little. The tomb of Baháwal Hakk was much injured during the siege, but afterwards repaired. Outside is a small monument marking the resting place of the brave old Nawáb Muzaffar Khán. Another conspicuous object is the tomb of Rukn ud dín 'Alam, grandson of Baháwal Hakk. An obelisk in the fort commemorates the deaths of the two British officers who were murdered on the outbreak of the revolt. A simpler epitaph would have befitted men who died in the execution of their duty.

Trade and Manufactures.—Though heat and dust make the climate of Multán trying, it is a very healthy place. The population rose steadily from 68,674 in 1881 to 99,243 in 1911. The chief local industries are silk and cotton weaving and the making of shoes. Multán has also some reputation for carpets, glazed pottery and enamel, and of late for tin boxes. A special feature of its commerce is the exchange of piece goods, shoes, and sugar for the raw silk, fruits, spices, and drugs brought in by Afghán traders. The Civil Lines lie to the south of the city and connect it with the Cantonment, which is an important military station.

Pesháwar (34.1 N., 71.35 E.) is 276 miles from Lahore and 190 from Kábul. There is little doubt that the old name was Purushapura, the town of Purusha, though Abu Rihan (Albiruni), a famous Arab geographer, who lived in the early part of the eleventh century, calls it Parsháwar, which Akbar corrupted into Pesháwar, or the frontier fort. As the capital of King Kanishka it was in the second century of the Christian era a great centre of Buddhism (page 164). Its possession of Buddha's alms bowl and of yet more precious relics of the Master deposited by Kanishka in a great stupa (page 203) made it the first place to be visited by the Chinese pilgrims who came to India between 400 and 630 A.D. Hiuen Tsang tells us the town covered 40 li or 6¾ miles. Its position on the road to Kábul made it a place of importance under the Moghal Empire. On its decline Pesháwar became part of the dominions of the Durání rulers of Kábul, and finally fell into the hands of Ranjít Singh. His Italian general Avitabile ruled it with an iron rod. In 1901 it became the capital of the new N. W. F. Province.

The Town lies near the Bára stream in a canal-irrigated tract. On the north-west it is commanded by the Bála Hissár, a fort outside the walls. The suburbs with famous fruit gardens are on the south side, and the military and civil stations to the west. The people to be seen in the bazárs of Pesháwar are more interesting than any of its buildings. The Gor Khatrí, part of which is now the tahsíl, from which a bird's-eye view of the town can be obtained, was successively the site of a Buddhist monastery, a Hindu temple, a rest-house built by Jahángír's Queen, Nur Jahán, and the residence of Avitabile. The most noteworthy Muhammadan building is Muhabbat Khán's mosque. Avitabile used to hang people from its minarets. The Hindu merchants live in the quarter known as Andar Shahr, the scene of destructive fires in 1898 and 1913. Pesháwar is now a well-drained town with a good water supply. It is an entrepôt of trade with Kábul and Bokhára. From the former come raw silk and fruit, and from the latter gold and silver thread and lace en route to Kashmír. The Kábulí and Bokháran traders carry back silk cloth, cotton piece goods, sugar, tea, salt, and Kashmír shawls.

Simla (31.6 N., 77.1 E.) lies on a spur of the Central Himálaya at a mean height exceeding 7000 feet. A fine hill, Jakko, rising 1000 feet higher, and clothed with deodár, oak, and rhododendron, occupies the east of the station and many of the houses are on its slopes. The other heights are Prospect Hill and Observatory Hill in the western part of the ridge. Viceregal Lodge is a conspicuous object on the latter, and below, between it and the Annandale race-course, is a fine glen, where the visitor in April from the dry and dusty plains can gather yellow primroses (Primula floribunda) from the dripping rocks. The beautiful Elysium Hill is on a small spur running northwards from the main ridge. Simla is 58 miles by cart road from Kálka, at the foot of the hills, and somewhat further by the narrow gauge railway.

History.—Part of the site was retained at the close of the Gurkha war in 1816, and the first English house, a wooden cottage with a thatched roof, was built three years later. The first Governor General to spend the summer in Simla was Lord Amherst in 1827. After the annexation of the Panjáb in 1849 Lord Dalhousie went there every year, and from 1864 Simla may be said to have become the summer capital of India. It became the summer headquarters of the Panjáb Government twelve years later. The thirty houses of 1830 have now increased to about 2000. Six miles distant on the beautiful Mahásu Ridge the Viceroy has a "Retreat," and on the same ridge and below it at Mashobra there are a number of European houses. There are excellent hotels in Simla, and the cold weather tourist can pay it a very pleasant visit, provided he avoids the months of January and February.

Srínagar (34.5 N., 74.5 E.), the summer capital of the Mahárája of Kashmír, is beautifully situated on both banks of the river Jhelam at a level of 5250 feet above the sea. To the north are the Hariparvat or Hill of Vishnu with a rampart built by Akbar and the beautiful Dal lake. Every visitor must be rowed up its still waters to the Násím Bágh, a grove of plane (chenâr) trees, laid out originally in the reign of the same Emperor. Between the lake and the town is the Munshí Bágh, in and near which are the houses of Europeans including the Residency. The splendid plane trees beside the river bank, to which house boats are moored, and the beautiful gardens attached to some of the houses, make this a very charming quarter. The Takht i Sulimán to the west of Srínagar is crowned by a little temple, whose lower walls are of great age. The town itself is intersected by evil-smelling canals and consists in the main of a jumble of wooden houses with thatched roofs. Sanitary abominations have been cleansed from time to time by great fires and punished by severe outbreaks of cholera. The larger part of the existing city is on the left side. The visitor may be content to view the parts of the town to be seen as he is rowed down the broad waterway from the Munshí Bágh passing under picturesque wooden bridges, and beside temples with shining metal roofs and the beautiful mosque of Sháh Hamadán. On the left bank below the first bridge is the Shergarhí with the Mahárája's houses and the Government Offices. Opposite is a fine ghát or bathing place with stone steps. Between the third and fourth bridges on the right bank is Sháh Hamadán's mosque, a carved cedar house with Buddhist features, totally unlike the ordinary Indian mosque. The stone mosque close by on the opposite side, built by Mir Jahán, was seemingly rejected by Muhammadans as founded by a woman, and is now a State granary. The Jama Masjid is on the north side, but not on the river bank. The tomb of the great king, Zain ul Ábidín, is below the fourth bridge, which bears his name. In the same quarter are the storehouses of the dealers in carpets and art wares and the Mission School. The last should be visited by anyone who wishes to see what a manly education can make of material in some respects unpromising.

CHAPTER XXX

Kaithal (Karnál), 29·5 N.—76·2 E. Headquarters of subdivision and tahsil. Population 12,912. A town of great antiquity. Kaithal is a corruption of Kapisthala—the monkey town, a name still appropriate. Timúr halted here on his march to Delhi. Was the headquarters of the Bhais of Kaithal, who held high rank among the Cis-Sutlej Sikh chiefs. Kaithal lapsed in 1843.

Karnál, 29·4 N.—76·6 E. Headquarters of district. Population 21,961. On Delhi—Kálka Railway. Till the Western Jamna Canal was realigned it was most unhealthy, and the Cantonment was given up in 1841 on this account. The health of the town is still unsatisfactory. Trade unimportant.

Kasauli (Ambála), 30·5 N.—76·6 E. Small hill station overlooking Kálka. Height 6000 feet. The Pasteur Institute for the treatment of rabies is at Kasauli, and the Lawrence Military School at Sanáwar, three miles off.

Pánipat (Karnál), 29·2 N.—76·6 E. Headquarters of tahsíl. Population 26,342. On Delhi—Kálka Railway. An important place in Hindu and Muhammadan times (pages 172 and 179). Local manufactures, brass vessels, cutlery, and glass.

Pihowa (Karnál), 29·6 N.—76·3 E. A very sacred place on the holy stream Sarusti.

Rewárí (Gurgáon), 28·1 N.—76·4 E. Headquarters of tahsil. Population 24,780. Junction of main line and Rewárí—Bhatinda branch of Rájputána—Málwa Railway. Trade in grain and sugar with Rájputána.

Rúpar (Ambála), 30·6 N.—76·3 E. Headquarters of subdivision and tahsíl. Population 6935. Exchange market for products of Hills and Plains. Headworks of Sirhind Canal are at Rúpar.

Sirsa (Hissár), 29·3 N.—75·2 E. Headquarters of subdivision and tahsil. Population 14,629. Sirsa or Sarsútí was an important place in Muhammadan times. Deserted in the great famine of 1783 it was refounded in 1838. On the Rewárí—Bhatinda Branch of the Rájputána—Málwa Railway. Has a brisk trade with Rájputána.

Thanesar (Karnál), 29·6 N.—76·5 E. See pages 165 and 168. Noted place of pilgrimage. Headquarters of a tahsíl. Population 4719. The old Hindu temples were utterly destroyed apparently when Thanesar was sacked by Mahmúd in 1014. There is a fine tomb of a Muhammadan Saint, Shekh Chillí.

(b) Jalandhar Division.

Aliwál, 30·6 N.—75·4 E. Scene of Sir Harry Smith's victory over the Sikhs on 28th January, 1846.

Dharmsála (Kángra), 32·1 N.—76·1 E. Headquarters of district. On a spur of the Dhauladhár Range. A Gurkha regiment is stationed here. The highest part of Dharmsála is over 7000 feet, and the scenery is very fine, but the place is spoiled as a hill station by the excessive rainfall, which averages over 120 inches. In the earthquake of 1905, 1625 persons, including 25 Europeans, perished.

Fázilka (Ferozepore), 30·3 N.—74·3 E. Headquarters of sub-division and tahsíl. Population 10,985. Terminus of Fázilka extension of Rájputána—Málwa Railway, and connected with Ludhiána by a line which joins the Southern Panjáb Railway at Macleodganj. A grain mart.

Ferozepore, 30·6 N.—74·4 E. Headquarters of district. Population 50,836 including 26,158 in Cantonment. (See page 245.)

Ferozesháh (Ferozepore), 30·5 N.—74·5 E. The real name is Pherushahr. Sir Hugh Gough defeated the Sikhs here after two days' hard fighting on Dec. 21-22, 1845.

Jalandhar, 31·2 N.—75·3 E. Headquarters of district. Population 69,318, including 13,964 in Cantonment. The Cantonment lies four miles to the S.E. of the native town and three miles from the Civil Lines. (See page 241.)

Jawála Mukhí (Kángra), 31·5 N.—76·2 E. Celebrated place of Hindu pilgrimage with a famous temple of the goddess Jawálamukhí, built over some jets of combustible gas.

Kángra, 30·5 N.—76·2 E. Headquarters of tahsíl. Ancient name Nagarkot. The celebrated temple and the fort of the Katoch kings of Kángra were destroyed in the earthquake of 1905. (See pages 168, 171, 183.)

Ludhiána, 30·6 N.—75·5 E. Headquarters of district. Population 44,170. The manufacture of pashmína shawls was introduced in 1833 by Kashmírís. Ludhiána is well known for its cotton fabrics and turbans (p. 152).

Mudkí (Ferozepore), 30·5 N.—74·5 E. The opening battle of the 1st Sikh War was fought here on 18th December, 1845.

(c) Lahore Division.

Batála (Gurdáspur), 30·5 N.—75·1 E. Headquarters of tahsíl. Population 26,430. Chief town in Gurdáspur district on the Amritsar—Pathánkot Railway. Cotton, silk, leathern goods, and soap are manufactured, and there is a large trade in grain and sugar. The Baring Anglo-Vernacular High School for Christian boys is a well-known institution.

Dalhousie (Gurdáspur), 33·3 N.—75·6 E. A well-known hill station at height of 7687 feet, 51 miles N.W. of Pathánkot, from which it is reached by tonga. The Commissioner of Lahore and the Deputy Commissioner of Gurdáspur spend part of the hot weather at Dalhousie. It is a very pretty and healthy place, with the fine Kálatop Forest in Chamba close by, and is deservedly popular as a summer resort.

Gujránwála, 32·9 N.—74·1 E. Headquarters of district. Population 29,472. An active trade centre. Ranjít Singh was born, and the tomb of his father, Mahán Singh is, at Gujránwála.

Kasúr (Lahore), 31·8 N—74·3 E. Headquarters of tahsíl in Lahore. Population 24,783. Between Raiwind and Ferozepore on N.W. Railway, and has direct railway communication with Amritsar. A very ancient place and now an active local trade centre.

Nankána-Sáhib (Gujránwala), 31·6 N.—73·8 E. In south of Gujránwála district on Chichoki—Shorkot Railway. Venerated by Sikhs as the early home of Bába Nának.

Siálkot, 32·3 N.—74·3 E. Headquarters of district. Population 64,869, of which 16,274 in Cantonment. A very old place connected with the legendary history of Raja Sáliváhan and his two sons Púran and Rája Rasálu. (See also page 165.) The Cantonment is about a mile and a half from the town. Siálkot is an active trade centre. Its hand-made paper was once well known, but the demand has declined. Tents, tin boxes, cricket and tennis bats, and hockey sticks, are manufactured.

Tarn Táran (Amritsar), 31·3 N.—74·6 E. Headquarters of tahsíl. Population 4260. On Amritsar—Kasúr Railway. The tank is said to have been dug by Guru Arjan and it and the temple beside it are held in great reverence by the Sikhs. The water is supposed to cure leprosy. The leper asylum at Tarn Táran in charge of the Rev. E. Guilford of the Church Missionary Society is an admirable institution. Clay figures of this popular missionary can be bought in the bazár.

(d) Ráwalpindí Division.

Attock (Atak), 32·5 N.—72·1 E. The fort was built by Akbar to protect the passage of the Indus. In the river gorge below is a whirlpool between two jutting slate rocks, called Kamália and Jamália after two heretics who were flung into the river in Akbar's reign. The bridge which carries the railway across the Indus still makes Attock a position of military importance. Population 630.

Bhera (Sháhpur), 32·3 N.—72·6 E. Headquarters of tahsíl. Population 15,202. A very ancient town which was sacked by Mahmúd and two centuries later by Chingiz Khán. Has an active trade. The wood-carvers of Bhera are skilful workmen. Woollen felts are manufactured.

Chilianwála (Chelianwála) (Gujrát), 32·7 N.—73·6 E. Famous battlefield (page 187).

Gujrát, 32·3 N.—74·5 E. Headquarters of district. Population 19,090. An old place, famous in recent history for the great battle on 22 February, 1849 (page 187). Has a brisk local trade.

Hasn Abdál (Attock) 33·5 N.—72·4 E. On N.W. Railway. Shrine of Bába Walí Kandahárí on hill above village. Below is the Sikh shrine of the Panja Sáhib, the rock in which bears the imprint of Bába Nának's five fingers (panja).

Jhelam, 32·6 N.—73·5 E. Headquarters of district and an important cantonment. Population 19,678, of which 7380 in cantonment. Has only become a place of any importance under British rule. Is an important depot for Kashmir timber trade.

Kálabágh (Mianwálí), 32·6 N.—71·3 E. Population 6654. Picturesquely situated below hills which are remarkable for the fantastic shapes assumed by salt exposed on the surface. The Kálabágh salt is in favour from its great purity. The Malik of Kálabágh is the leading man in the Awán tribe.

Katás (Jhelam), 32·4 N.—72·6 E. A sacred pool in the Salt Range and a place of Hindu pilgrimage. The tears of Şiva weeping for the loss of his wife Satí formed the Katáksha pool in the Salt Range and Pushkar at Ajmer.

Khewra (Jhelam), 32·4 N.—73·3 E. In Salt Range five and a half miles N.E. of Pinddádankhán. The famous Mayo Salt Mine is here.

Malot (Jhelam), 32·4 N.—72·5 E. Nine miles W. of Katás (see above). Fort and temple on a spur of the Salt Range. Temple in early Kashmir style (Archaeological Survey Reports, Vol. v. pp. 85-90).

Mankiála (Manikyála) (Ráwalpindi), 33·3 N.—74·2 E. A little village close to which are the remains of a great Buddhist stúpa and of a number of monasteries (page 202).

Murree (Marrí) (Ráwalpindi), 33·5 N.—73·2 E. Hill Station near Kashmír road on a spur of the Himálaya—height 7517 feet—39 miles from Ráwalpindí, from which visitors are conveyed by tonga. The views from Murree are magnificent and the neighbourhood of the Hazára Galís is an attraction. But the climate is not really bracing. The summer headquarters of the Northern Army are at Murree, and before 1876 the Panjáb Government spent the hot weather there. The Commissioner and Deputy Commissioner of Ráwalpindí take their work there for several months.

Murtí (Jhelam), 32·4 N.—72·6 E. In Gandhála valley on bank of Katás stream. Remains of a Buddhist stúpa and of a Jain temple. (Archaeological Survey Reports, Vol. II. pp. 88 and 90.)

Ráwalpindí, 33·4 N.—73·7 E. Headquarters of district and division, and the most important cantonment in Northern India. Population 86,483, of which 39,841 in Cantonment. It owes its importance entirely to British rule. Large carrying trade with Kashmír. Contains the N.W. Railway Locomotive and Carriage works and several private factories, also a branch of the Murree brewery. There is an important arsenal. The Park, left fortunately mainly in its natural state, is an attractive feature of the cantonment.

Rohtás (Jhelam), 32·6 N.—73·5 E. Ten miles N.W. of Jhelam on the far side of the gorge where the Kahá torrent breaks through a spur of the Tilla Range. Fine remains of a very large fort built by the Emperor Sher Sháh Surí.

Sakesar (Sháhpur), 31·3 N.—71·6 E. Highest point of Salt Range, 5010 feet above sea level. The Deputy Commissioners of Sháhpur, Mianwálí, and Attock spend part of the hot weather at Sakesar.

Sháhdherí (Ráwalpindí), 33·2 N.—72·5 E. On the Hazára border and near the Margalla Pass. Site of the famous city of Táxila (Takshasilá). See pages 161, 165, and 204. Excavation is now being carried out with interesting results.

Táxila. See Sháhdherí.

(e) Multán Division.

Chiniot (Jhang), 31·4 N.—73·0 E. Headquarters of tahsíl. Population 14,085. A very old town near the left bank of the Chenáb. Famous for brasswork and wood-carving. The Muhammadan Khoja traders have large business connections with Calcutta, Bombay, and Karáchí. Fine mosque of the time of Sháhjahán.

Kamália (Lyallpur), 30·4 N.—72·4 E. Population 8237. An old town. Cotton printing with hand blocks is a local industry. The town should now prosper as it is a station on the Chichoki—Shorkot Road Railway and irrigation from the Lower Chenáb Canal has reached its neighbourhood.

Lyallpur, 31·3 N.—73·9 E. Fine new Colony town. Headquarters of district. Population 19,578. Large wheat trade with Karáchí, and has a number of cotton ginning and pressing factories.

Montgomery, 30·4 N.—73·8 E. Headquarters of district. Population 8129. May become a place of some importance with the opening of the Lower Bárí Doáb Canal. Hitherto one of the hottest and dreariest stations in the Panjáb, but healthy.

Pákpattan, 30·2 N.—73·2 E. Headquarters of tahsíl. Population 7912. On Sutlej Valley Railway. Anciently known as Ajodhan and was a place of importance. Contains shrine of the great Saint Faríd ul Hakk wa ud Dín Shakarganj (1173-1265). Visited by Timúr in 1398. There is a great annual festival attracting crowds of pilgrims, who come even from Afghánistán. There is great competition to win eternal bliss by getting first through the gate at the entrance to the shrine.

II. Panjáb Native States.

Baháwalpur, 29·2 N.—71·5 E. Capital of State on N.W. Railway 65 miles south of Multán. Population 18,414. There is a large palace built by Nawáb Muhammad Sadík Muhammad Khán IV in 1882.

Barnála (Patiála), 32·2 N.—75·4 E. Headquarters of Anáhadgarh Nizámat on Rájpura-Bhatinda branch of N.W. Railway. Population 5341. For the famous battle see page 179.

Bhatinda (Patiála), 30·1 N.—75·0 E. Also called Govindgarh. Old names are Vikramagarh and Bhatrinda. Historically a place of great interest (page 167). Fell into decay in later Muhammadan times. Is now a great railway junction and a nourishing grain mart. The large fort is a conspicuous object for many miles round. Population 15,037.

Brahmaur, 32·3 N.—76·4 E. The old capital of Chamba, now a small village. Has three old temples. One of Lakshana Deví has an inscription of Meru Varma, who ruled Chamba in the seventh century.

Chamba, 32·3 N.—76·1 E. Capital of State picturesquely situated on a plateau above right bank of Ráví. Population 5523. The white palace is a conspicuous object. There is an excellent hospital and an interesting museum. The group of temples near the palace is noteworthy (page 201). That of Lakshmí Naráyan perhaps dates from the tenth century. The Ráví is spanned at Chamba by a fine bridge.

Chíní (Bashahr), 31·3 N.—78·2 E. Headquarters of Kanáwar near the right bank of Sutlej. Elevation 9085 feet. Was a favourite residence of Lord Dalhousie. There is a Moravian Mission Station at Chíní.

Kapúrthala, 31·2 N.—75·2 E. Capital of State. Contains Mahárája's palace. Population 16,367.

Malerkotla, 30·3 N.—75·6 E. Capital of State. Population 23,880.

Mandí, 31·4 N.—76·6 E. Capital of State. Population 7896. On the Biás, 131 miles from Pathánkot, with which it is connected by the Pathánkot—Palampur—Baijnáth road. There is a fine iron bridge spanning the Biás. It is a mart for trade with Ladákh and Yárkand.

Nábha, 30·2 N.—76·1 E. Capital of State. Population 13,620, as compared with 18,468 in 1901. Founded in 1755 by Hamír Singh (page 277). Since irrigation from the Sirhind Canal has been introduced the environs have become waterlogged and the town is therefore unhealthy.

Náhan, 30·3 N.—77·2 E. Capital of Sirmúr State. Elevation 3207 feet. Population 6341. There is a good iron foundry at Náhan.

Patiála, 30·2 N.—76·3 E. Capital of State. Population 46,974. On Rájpura-Bhatinda Branch of N.W. Railway. Contains fine gardens and modern buildings. The old palace is in the centre of the town. Patiála is a busy mart for local trade.

Pattan Munára (Baháwalpur), 28·1 N.—70·2 E. There are the ruins here of a large city and of a Buddhist monastery. They are situated in the south of the State five miles east of Rahím Yár Khán Station.

Sangrúr (Jínd), 30·1 N.—75·6 E. Became the capital of Jínd State in 1827. Population 9041. On Ludhiána—Dhurí—Jakhal Railway.

Sirhind (Patiála), 30·4 N.—76·3 E. Properly Sahrind. On N.W. Railway. Population 3843. The idea that the name is Sir-Hind = head of India is a mistake. An old town of great importance in Muhammadan period (pages 177 and 180). The ruins extend for several miles. There are two fine tombs known as those of the Master and his Disciple dating probably from the fourteenth century.

Suí Vehar (Baháwalpur), 29·2 N.—71·3 E. Six miles from Samasata. Site of a ruined Buddhist stúpa. An inscription found at Suí Vehár belongs to the reign of Kanishka (page 164).

Uch (Baháwalpur), 29·1 N.—71·4 E. On the Sutlej near the point where it joins the Chenáb. Consists now of three villages. But it was in early Muhammadan times a place of great importance, and a centre of learning. It is still very sacred in the eyes of Musalmáns.

III. North West Frontier Province.

(a) Districts.

Abbottábád, 34·9 N.—73·1 E. Headquarters of district and a cantonment with four battalions of Gurkhas. Population 11,506. At south end of Orash Plain 4120 feet above sea level. Appropriately named after Captain James Abbott (page 299).

Bannu. See Edwardesábád.

Cherát (Pesháwar), 33·5 N.—71·5 E. Small hill sanitarium in Pesháwar near Kohát border, 4500 feet above sea level.

Dera Ismail Khán, 31·5 N.—70·6 E. Headquarters of district and a cantonment. Population 35,131, including 5730 in cantonment. The Powinda caravans pass through Dera Ismail Khán on their march to and from India.

Dungagalí (Hazára), 34·6 N.—73·2 E. Small sanitarium, elevation 7800 feet, in Hazára Galís, two miles from Nathiagalí. Moshpurí rises above it to a height of 9232 feet.

Edwardesábád (Bannu), 33·0 N.—70·4 E. Headquarters of Bannu district and a cantonment. Founded by Lieutenant (afterwards Sir Herbert) Edwardes in 1848. Population 16,865. It is unhealthy owing to the heavy irrigation in the neighbourhood.

Fort Lockhart (Kohát), 33·3 N.—70·6 E. Important military outpost on Samána Range, elevation 6743 feet. Saragarhí, heroically defended by twenty-one Sikhs in 1897 against several thousand Orakzais, is in the neighbourhood.

Kohát, 33·3 N.—71·3 E. Headquarters of district and a cantonment. Population 22,654, including 5957 in Cantonment. On Khushálgarh—Thal Branch of N.W. Railway.

Mansehra (Hazára), 34·2 N.—73·1 E. Headquarters of tahsíl. The two rock edicts of Aşoka are in the neighbourhood (pages 163 and 202).

Nathiagalí (Hazára), 34·5 N.—73·6 E. Summer headquarters of Chief Commissioner of N.W.F. Province in Hazára Galís. Elevation 8200 feet. It is a beautiful little hill station. Míran Jáni (9793 feet) is close by, and on a clear day Nanga Parvat can be seen in the far distance.

Naushahra (Pesháwar), 34 N.—72 E. Population 25,498, including 14,543 in cantonment. On railway 27 miles east of Pesháwar. Risálpura, a new cavalry cantonment, is in the neighbourhood.

Shekḥbudín, 32·2 N.—70·5 E. Small hill station on Níla Koh on border of Dera Ismail Khán and Bannu districts. Elevation 4516 feet. It is on a bare limestone rock with very scanty vegetation and is hot in summer in the daytime. Water is scarce. The Deputy Commissioners of Bannu and Dera Ismail Khán spend part of the hot weather at Shekḥbudín.

Thal (Kohát), 33·2 N.—70·3 E. Important military outpost at entrance of Kurram Valley. Terminus of Khushálgarh—Thal branch of N.W. Railway.

Thandiání (Hazára), 34·1 N.—73·2 E. Small hill station in Galís sixteen miles N.E. of Abbottábád. Elevation about 8800 feet. A beautifully situated place chiefly resorted to by residents of Abbottábád and Missionaries.

(b) Agencies and Independent Territory.

Ali Masjid (Khaibar), 34·2 N.—71·5 E. Village and fort in Khaibar, 10¼ miles from Jamrúd. Elevation 2433 feet.

Ambela (Indep. Territory), 34·2 N.—72·4 E. Pass in Buner, which gave its name to the Ambela campaign of 1863 (page 191).

Chakdarra (Dír, Swát, and Chitrál), 34·4 N.—72·8 E. Military post to N.E. of Malakand Pass on south bank of Swát River.

Chitrál, 35·5 N.—71·5 E. A group of villages forming capital of Chitrál State. There is a small bazár.

Jamrúd (Khaibar), 34 N.—71·2 E. Just beyond Pesháwar boundary at mouth of Khaibar. Terminus of railway. 10½ miles west of Pesháwar. There is a fort and a large sarai. Elevation 1670 feet.

Landí Kotal (Khaibar), 34·6 N.—71·8 E. 20 miles from Jamrúd. Fort garrisoned by Khaibar Rifles at highest point of Khaibar route. Elevation 3373 feet. Afghán frontier 6 miles beyond.

Malakand (Dír, Swát, and Chitrál), 34·3 N.—71·6 E. Pass leading into Swát Valley from Pesháwar district.

Míram Sháh (N. Wazíristán), 33·6 N.—70·7 E. Headquarters of North Wazíristán Agency in Tochí Valley 3050 feet above the sea.

Parachinár (Kurram), 33·5 N.—70·4 E. Headquarters of Kurram Agency and of Kurram Militia. Climate temperate. Population 2364.

Wána (S. Wazíristán), 37·2 N.—69·4 E. Headquarters of South Wazíristán Agency. In a wide valley watered by Wána Toi. There is much irrigation and the place is unhealthy, though the elevation of the Valley is from 4300 to 5800 feet.

IV. Kashmír and Jammu.

Báramúla, 34·1 N.—74·2 E. Situated at the point where the Jhelam gorge ends and the Vale of Kashmír begins. Travellers who intend to go to Srínagar by water board their house boats here. There is an excellent poplar-lined road from Báramúla to Srínagar and a bad road to Gulmarg.

Chilás, 35·4 N.—74·2 E. See page 323.

Gulmarg, 34·1 N.—74·4 E. S.W. of Srínagar. It is a favourite hot weather resort of Europeans. The Mahárája has a house here. The forest scenery is beautiful, especially on the way to the limit of trees at Khilanmarg. Good golf links on beautiful turf.

Gurais, 34·7 N.—74·8 E. A beautiful valley drained by the head waters of the Kishnganga. It lies between Bandipura and the Burzil Pass on the road to Gilgit.

Hunza, 36·4 N.—74·7 E. (See page 323.) Hunza is a group of villages. The Rajá's (or Tham's) fort, Baltit castle, at an elevation of 7000 feet is splendidly situated in full view of Rakaposhi, distant 20 miles. It is overhung by the enormous mass of snow peaks said to be called in the language of the country Boiohaghurduanasur (the peak of the galloping horse).

Islámábád, 33·4 N.—75·1 E. About 40 miles by river from Srínagar, near the point where the Jhelam ceases to be navigable. Achabal and Mártand are easily visited from Islámábád, and it is the starting point for the Liddar Valley and Pahlgam. It is a dirty insanitary place.

Jammu, 32·4 N.—74·5 E. Capital of the Jammu province and winter residence of the Mahárája. Connected with Siálkot by rail. Situated above the ravine in which the Tawí flows. At a distance the white-washed temples with gilded pinnacles look striking. The town was once much more prosperous than it is to-day.

Leh, 34·2 N.—77·5 E. Capital of Ladákh. On the Indus 11,500 feet above sea-level. The meeting place of caravans from India and Yárkand. The Central Asian caravans arrive in Autumn, when the bazár, in a wide street lined with poplars, becomes busy. The Wazír Wazárat has his headquarters here, and there is a small garrison in the mud fort. The old palace of the Gyalpo (King) is a large pile on a ridge overhanging the town. There are Moravian and Roman Catholic missions at Leh.

Mártand, 33·4 N.—75·1 E. Remains of a remarkable temple of the Sun god three miles east of Islámábád (pages 166 and 201).

Payer (erroneously Payech). Nineteen miles from Srínagar containing a beautiful and well-preserved temple of the Sun god, dated variously from the fifth to the thirteenth century (page 202).

Punch, 33·4 N.—74·9 E. Capital of the jágír of the Rája of Punch, a feudatory of the Kashmír State. 3300 feet above sea level. There is a brisk trade in grain and ghí. Decent roads connect Punch with Ráwalpindí and Urí on the Jhelam. Cart Road into Kashmír. Kashmírís call the place Prunts and its old name was Parnotsa.

Skardo, 35·3 N.—75·6 E. Old capital of Báltistán. 7250 feet above sea-level. In a sandy basin lying on both sides of the Indus, and about five miles in width. A tahsíldár is stationed at Skardo.

Table I. Tribes of Panjáb (including Native States) and N.W.F. Province[1].