We lay at anchor off Hong-Kong until the eleventh of July, when received orders to proceed over to Macào, and join our consort there. I was out of the ship when the orders came, and of course knew nothing about them; had spent the evening on board H. M. S. S. Minden, where I occupied the state-room of an absent officer, an acquaintance. The next morning, whilst breakfasting, my attention was directed, through the port, to some unusual movement on board our ship; such as a boat being dispatched to the Cleopatra, sending aloft topgallant yards, and unshipping the companion ladder. This last movement was decisive. Sailing orders must be on: and bringing my meal to a hasty conclusion, got on board to find the messenger shipped, and all hands heaving away at the capstan. Soon we had sail on, and I did not get on board a minute too soon to secure a passage to Macào.
After reaching that port, and concluding the business for which we had been summoned, received permission to exchange our rolling and pitching in the outer roads, for the snug and quiet anchorage in the Typa; and our old pleasant trips to the shore were again resumed: rambles along the Governor's Road, and over the hills, filling up the afternoons of "liberty days," and suppers at "Frank's"—Hotel—at night adding considerably to the amount of monthly mess bills.
The arrival of the mail was always an event with us; and this month—August—it reached Macào unusually early, having been received on the eighth day: just fifty-eight days from New-York. I do not know what we would have done without this mail, the anticipation of its arrival keeping our minds occupied, and the business of answering letters and mailing them filling up the monthly intervals. We closed our correspondence in the last week of the month, expecting dates from home during the first week of the next.
Whilst we lay in the Typa had strong indications of a Ty-foong, but it passed over with some bad weather, high winds, and squalls. Felt perfectly secure at our anchorage, but used the precaution of bending the sheet-cables, sending down yards, and housing topgallant-masts. As it was, had considerable of a blow, and the Ty-foong ravaged the coasts in our vicinity.
The Ty-foong of the East is synonymous with the hurricane or tornado of the West Indies, as the monsoon may be said to assimilate with the trade-winds of the opposite hemisphere; but this "strong wind" blows with even more violence, and has a circular motion. Ships have had their masts bodily twisted out of them, and many, more unfortunate, have been ingulfed in the maelstrom created by its fury. From its veering so suddenly to every point of the compass, the usual precautions against ordinary gales afford but little protection. A heavy, boding swell precedes, to give notice of the dreaded Ty-foong. The aquatic birds, with natural instinct, take wing and fly before its approach; whilst on shore the air is filled with insects in constant motion. So indicative, indeed, is this flight of insects, that the Chinese call them Ty-foong Bugs.
The inhabitants predicate the recursion of these storms by numerous other signs, and are prompt to take every precaution to avoid their effects. At Macào, upon this occasion, the proprietors of the "Tanka" and "pull away" boats drew them on shore, some distance from the landing, and close to the houses. In these, the boat folk, men, women, and children, stowed themselves away, prepared to weather the Ty-foong. The walls of the dwellings on the Praya forming a good lee, they lashed their boats as well as they were able, and secured the bamboo coverings. Not a boatman could be prevailed upon to launch his craft for love or money. Some of them, indeed, from the habit of their profession, would say, "Suppose have give ten, twelve dollar, so;" but if you appeared for an instant to incline to their extortionate demand, they would at once change their tune, and shaking both head and tail,—please to remember that Chinese boatmen have tails to their heads,—cry out, with deprecatory gestures, "Ei-yah! how can make walkee? my tinkee can catchee too muchee Ti-fung!" and then slide back beneath their bamboo shelter, with a decisive "No can!"
The season when Ty-foongs generally prevail in these latitudes,—and it is only within a few degrees upon these coasts that they rage,—is between July and October, inclusive of those months. They form a serious impediment to the navigation of the China Sea, almost amounting to its obstruction at this period; for the inducement must be great to encounter such a risk. H. B. M. ship Hastings experienced a severe one late in October, and the new American clipper ship "Witchcraft," came into Victoria harbor on the third of December, 1851, having encountered a strong Tyfoong in 142° east, which carried away all her topmasts, and jib-boom, narrowly escaping going down. Both these vessels were caught unexpectedly, neither expecting to find Ty-foongs in the latitudes in which they were at that season of the year.
Ty-foong passed—Pleasant Season—Theatrical Exhibition—The Macàense—Philharmonic Society—Italian Opera—Awaiting Orders for Home—Thoughts of Home and Friends—Idea suggested by the Setting Sun—Poetry—Maladie de Pays—Its effects upon the Swiss—A Remedy—My own Experience—And manner of Cure.
The symptoms of the Ty-foong having passed over, and all fears of its recurrence at an end, time went pleasantly by at Macào. The temperature was most delightful, this season being certainly the most agreeable in this part of China, a number of foreign residents from Canton and Hong-Kong adding to its gayety.
The Portuguese officers, aided by the citizens, got up for our amusement a theatrical exhibition, at the old rooms formerly occupied by the Philharmonic Society. The representations were very good, and the accommodations for the audience excellent. Saw the elité of Macào at these performances, and must say the Macàense are not without a goodly share of female beauty, although it is not apparent upon all occasions, for the decline of the place has affected the finances of the families, and their pride will not allow them to exhibit their poverty upon common occasions, not that there was any evidence of it here, for the ladies were all richly as well as tastily dressed.
It is perhaps not generally known that opera once flourished in Macào. An Italian company, who had carried their "sweet voices" around the world, once made these walls vocal with the music of Donnizetti, Bellini, and others of their great maestros, and "Lucia di Lammermoor" lamented her lost love, and the amiable Amina sobbed forth her somnambulic sorrows for her false lover, upon these very boards.
The performance given upon this occasion was not in opera, but dramatic, something about the troubles of a Jew—not le Juif Errant—although this member of his tribe was off and on sufficiently to have given him a claim to this title.
An interval, filled up by promenading to some pretty good music, was succeeded by a funny farce, which sent the audience laughing to their beds.
We awaited here the arrival of the Commodore, whom we had heard was to bring us our release, and send us home immediately upon his reaching the station. Had not a full view of the part of the horizon from which the flagship might be expected to emerge, but many were the glasses directed to the mouth of the Typa, from which a glimpse of the ocean could be gained, and the quarter-masters of each watch were repeatedly ordered to keep a good look-out. The fact was, we were getting tired of China, and despite all the kind favors showered upon us, longed for home:
And thoughts of home and dear ones there, would intrude, and strong desires once more to tread the soil of that loved native land, and to press the hands of early and long-tried friends, could not be entirely repressed, although not altogether just to "those we had here."
But we had been now nearly two years absent. Two years on shipboard is a long, a very long time—try it if you doubt—and had seen nearly all that was worthy of observation within our reach. Seas of immense extent rolled between us and our homes, and the circumference of the globe had to be traversed ere we could expect to meet our friends. No wonder then that we so ardently desired to be allowed to point our prow towards the West, or watching the retiring beams of the setting sun, envied that orb the privilege that action gave, of kissing eyelids and gazing into eyes, on which we were wont to gaze "lang syne," nor under the influence of such thoughts that we should give them vent in this manner:
I have before explained the causes which operated upon me to produce such effects as above, and hope the reader, if ever he or she should have been afflicted in either of the ways I have mentioned, will at least tolerate the method of alleviation.
This "maladie-de-pays" is a horrible sensation, worse than sea-sickness, I ween, and I can fully sympathize with the poor Swiss, who are said to have fallen victims to it in the armies of Napoleon. He should have allowed pens, ink, and any quantity of writing paper; they might have relieved their minds by scribbling. Music is also said to be a capital cure, although the "Ranz des Vaches" did not succeed; but I judge from the cheerful countenances of those of their countrymen who are in the habit of parading our streets with a hand organ and monkey, and enlivening us with the air of
For myself I have only experienced the malady twice. The first attack occurred, when with a heart rather more tender than at the present writing, I was left amongst a parcel of strange inquisitive boys, at a boarding-school in the country, at what then appeared to my unsophisticated mind away "'tother side of yonder;"—I shall never forget, although I may laugh at it now, the feeling of utter desolateness that came over me, or how low sank my little heart, even to the very soles of my stockings, when the Dominie, whose face was fast forgetting the smiles it had worn in my good parents' presence, inquired in a tone half hypocritical, half ironical: "What does the young gentleman want now?" and I blubberingly answered, "I—want—to—go—go—home." I recovered from that attack with the aid of counter irritation by the application of birch, and emollients in the shape of scribbling verses to the metre of "dulce—dulce domum." The effects of the second are now before the reader, from which I opine he is the greatest sufferer, and this is dispersed by music, for the "retreat" has just been beaten, and I shall turn in.
Haul up all standing—Boat Races—Interest in the sport—Excitement general—Arrangements—Jockeyism—Regatta—Preparations—The Start—The Race—The Result—Launch and First Cutter—Race described con-amore—Suggestion of an Old Salt—Satan and Sailors.
But I must cease my digressions, lest my sickness become epidemic, and extend to my readers, in which event I should fear they would not be "at home" to me. To continue:
To fill up the time, and give some relaxation to the men, had boat races between the different crews in the "Typa."
It was surprising to see with what interest the sailors entered into the sport, and the excitement produced by the contests; bets ran high amongst them, and Tattersalls, previous to the great St. Leger Stake, could not produce a greater scene of excitement than did our top-gallant forecastle and forward gangways, during the preparations for a race; the claims of different candidates for an oar would be carefully canvassed, and the coxswains became, for the nonce, men of vast importance, for upon their ipse dixit in selecting the crews, the success of the boats was thought mainly to depend. Then the non-combatants had their favorite boats and men, and their suggestions would be strongly urged.
The enthusiasm even extended to the officers, and produced an excitement as deep, if not so loud, upon the quarter deck and poop. Sums were raised amongst them, and set up as prizes for the crew of the winning boat, and suppers on shore, and segars in hand, hung upon the success of the second or third cutters—the first cutter and the launch.
Every plan known to experienced boatmen was resorted to; every unnecessary impediment that could offer the slightest obstruction removed; the bottoms of the boats, after having been well scraped, were secretly greased, and the pintals of the rudder carefully oiled, the weight of the oars well calculated, and the trim of the boats arranged by placing breakers of water fore, aft, or amidships, as it was thought their weight might be required to give a proper balance.
The oars, too, were carefully overhauled, scraped, pointed, and newly leathered; the rowlocks, in which they were to be placed, arranged, and nothing that skill or experience could suggest, was neglected to secure success.
Preparation for the race.—The hour big with fate to the crews of the second and third cutters approached. One bell in the afternoon watch had been struck, and preparations commenced. The respective crews having taken the lightest kind of a dinner, divested themselves of all unnecessary clothing, tied handkerchiefs around their heads, and making their belts taut around their bodies, stood by, ready for a call. The boats, their oars all in, and extra ones secured handily to the gunwales, in case of accident, with a coxswain in each, lay at either of the booms,—second cutter on starboard, third on the port side; and the arrangement was that they should both lay upon their oars and await the signal, which was to be the dropping of a handkerchief by the umpire, who was first to see that neither had the advantage. A few minutes before two bells, the boatswain's mate piped away the crews, and they descended into their respective boats by the booms.
The start.—After being seated, and having peaked their oars by way of a salute, the order was given to "let fall;" splash went their oars into the water, and anxiety was depicted upon every countenance. "Take your stations"—"Back your oars, third cutters"—"Steady there, second cutters," were the orders given and repeated with only an alteration in the titles of the boats, as the crew of each with a natural impulse strove to prevent the other from stealing a length upon them; from this impatience it was found impossible to make their position exactly relative; but at last the handkerchief was dropped, and off they shot with the velocity of arrows from a bow, the second cutter having the advantage of half a length in the start.
The race.—The distance to be rowed was one mile and a half to a stake boat, round that, and back. The prize, a bag containing sixty-four dollars, suspended from an oar in the stake boat. The second cutter having the start, kept the distance open between her and her competitor (now extended a full length), which pulled up steadily in her wake; the coxswain of the leading boat dexterously anticipating all his pursuer's efforts to pass, and keeping him dead in his wake until they had shot over half the distance between the ship and the stake boat, when, by a desperate effort, the third cutter appeared to leap bodily out of the water, her oars quivering like the wings of a bird, from the impulse given by those muscular arms. Side by side, their oars almost overlapping, they dashed like the wind towards the prize. Now came the tug—a single tarpauling would at one moment have covered them both and retained its position, so steadily did they pull; it was apparently a tie, when an unusual movement was observed on board the third cutter.
The result—This was caused by the breaking of the bow oar, which snapping short off, dropped into the water, and fouled the starboard oars; not an instant was spent in shipping another, but the advantage had been lost. The second cutter, with her full power, shot ahead, rounded the stake boat and led the way back; her opponent recovering from the accident, and following so closely, that the two appeared like one boat of unusual length as they approached; but the struggle was unequal. Two third cutters, unable to stand the additional labor, gave out. The flag was hauled down from the fore as the second cutter passed the line, and the third, contending to the last, came in about three boats' lengths astern.
The next race was between the launch and the first cutter; the launch, a heavy boat, called by sailors the "Purser's Gig," pulling sixteen oars; first cutter, a fast craft, with a crack crew, pulling just eight. This was the race of the Regatta, and excited much interest. Various were the opinions as to the result, and to use a phrase of the turf, "bets were even;" not that any serious amounts of money were risked, for that would have been "contra bonos mores;" but several suppers and sundry boxes of segars hung on the balance.
Both the boats were put in capital order, and the crews of both were sanguine of success. The launchers depended upon the power they possessed in a double bank of oars; the first cutters upon the qualities and lightness of their boat. Impelled by these hopes, they started. I happened to be in the launch; we took the lead after a fair start, and led the cutter around the stake boat, a distance of more than a mile; but that which had given the launch a great advantage on the first stretch, proved a serious drawback on her return, the prevalence of a very high wind, which increasing, kicked up a tremendous sea, and causing her to roll and pitch, very much deadened her headway. Gradually the first cutter crawled up; gallantly the launchers contested the space they had gained. "Give way, lads! give way, they're gaining on us!" and the oars bent like willows in the hands of the hardy launchers; but in vain this expenditure of strength; one half of it was lost in a heavy lurch, which sent the starboard oars glancing in the sunbeams, dripping salt tears from their blades into the exulting wave, and nearly unseating the men. Like the Giselle, the agile cutter skips alongside. "Pull steadily now, men!" "Pull with a will!" It is vain; side by side we plunge, but the cutter evidently gains; a glimpse of blue sky is apparent at the back of her steerer; it increases; the slanting beams of the setting sun shines full in our eyes. It is noticed by the crew—sailors are superstitious, and their hopes sink with the sun; "But it will rise again! Give way, boys, give way! we'll beat them yet!" Again they put forth all their power, and the bow oars nearly touch. But the wind increases, the sea rises, a heavy swell knocks us back from the vantage we had gained. The third cutter, buoyant as a cork, perches an instant on the crest of a wave, and then rushes down its opposite side with a cheer from its crew. The race was to the swift, but "the battle was not to the strong;" the "Purser's Gig" was distanced.
But, if the launch had been beaten, its crew were not conquered, and the coxswain, old Andrews, captain of the forecastle, who, with a picked crew, would have undertaken to have pulled the boat across his own maelstrom, offered his whack—the sum to his credit on the purser's books, on his discharge,—against a plug of tobacco,—upon the issue, in moderately smooth water; whilst I, with others, had not lost confidence in the strong arms that impelled the "purser's gig;" although I did not incline to make one of her crew in a contest in which old A. proposed to beat the devil, on his own lake of fiery brimstone, with his favorite launch; but A. was excited by the race, and had got a tot of a mixture which assimilated to that "fire water," and forgot that his boat was not framed of asbestos; besides, I fear he held his satanic majesty slightly in contempt from the nautical notion that he possesses power over sailors no more within his dominions.
Effects of the Race—Suppers and their effects—The stuff that Dreams are made of—A Scrape in the Typa—Again at Whampoa.
Some suppers had to be ordered, and somebody had to eat them. Suppers are spiritless affairs without wine—nay! I deny the soft impeachment,—no pun is meant! And wine came forth at the bidding. Some one observes,
Let him but whisper the name of one "familiar" of any shade, complexion, or color within the corridors of Francisco Diaz's mansion for thirsty men, in Macào; and lo! it appears!
His house is haunted; there are bottle imps therein. Suppers were eaten at which epicures had not lingered; wine gulped down which would not have inspired Anacreon, and segars smoked that Sir Walter Raleigh might have relished! Apropos of segars—I should have said cheroots—Manillas scent the Indian air, Havanas have few lips to greet them in the East. Cheroots, then; who is there amongst the masculine dwellers of the land of "musquitoes and myrtle," that affects not the gentle cheroot? soft in its fragrance as the sigh of love! cheering in its effects as the presence of woman in the hour of pain! seducing in its influence as the eye of beauty! And whence gains the cheroot its magical properties? Look back, if you please, to chapter twelfth of this moving tale, and there you have it fully explained. It comes from the hand of woman! the same that presented the apple to Adam, and the pitcher to Abraham, who in falling or fainting, in laughing or weeping, still infuses the sweetness and acidity that makes the lemonade of life, and in mixing the ingredients "gives it all its flavor!"
"Let the toast be dear woman!" "Hallo, old fellow, thought you were asleep. Had something of a nightmare, eh? Been mumbling away as if the supper didn't agree with you." "Well, your toast, with all the honors, and then to bed." "Agreed."
"Let us go on board ship," proposed a seasoned mate, "the fast boat shoves off at ten." "Agreed, agreed again," was chorused round the table, and "one bottle more" of sparkling champagne being called for, "success to the launch" was drank, and then a majority of the party sought the boat, gained the ship, and turned in. "Let the toast be dear woman," danced through my brain upon sparkling beams of champagne, and the vibration of the nettles in the clews of my hammock plainly said or sung—
And I had a dream, which was "all a dream." With Byron in his waking "Dream," "I saw two beings in the hue of youth," and like his lovers, they were "standing upon a hill," and "both were young, and one was beautiful." I do not know how in fitting words to tell my dream. But as it was similar to his, oh that I could with his language, without the imputation of plagiarism, set down what crossed my sleeping mind. Besides, I have a dread of offending some readers in these transcendental times, when lectures on mysterious subjects are given to married ladies only, whose faces would tingle at the mere mention of one of those English classics, from whose fount flowed "the well of English undefiled." But to my dream. It was the age of early manhood, boyhood still lingering on the face of a being who filled my mind until it formed a part of myself. The being described as beautiful, oh beautiful as an angel was she! was by his side. Love, full, passionate love, brimmed over in her dark black eye, darker, more dazzling than the gazelle's, which was reflected back from his dark orbs, which took their brightest brilliancy from hers. Over her cheek the rosy god had spread his crimson mantle, and in the dimples of her chin the mischievous boy had found a lurking-place. They walked and talked, and in what phrase? Truly they knew not themselves! and yet each word, each glance, each touch, had a meaning perfectly intelligible. Time passed, but what was time to them, they saw nothing of his beard, heard not the rustling of his ancient wings, his scythe was hidden. The heavens are overcast, thunder rolls above them, and the lightning's glare makes the black fringes of the heavy cloud more funereal. A shadow, heavy, dense, material, interposes, and the boy seeks for his fair companion—but she is gone: "Got to see the hammocks up! six bells, come turn out," "rouse and bitt," "show a leg in a purser's stocking." "Zounds, how he sleeps," "where, where, oh where is my hammock boy?" who appeared at my call, and whom I wished at the gangway, that I might have slept on. But turn out I must now—and so turned out my dream.
Other races were upon the tapis. The launchers, like brave old Taylor, would not stay beaten, and demanded another trial; they offered to oppose any thing, from the Captain's gig, down to the dingui—they even wanted to challenge the boats of the whole squadron, and old A., the coxswain, in the true spirit of Rhoderick Dhu, exclaimed, "Come one, come all," but the regatta was put a stop to, by orders to get out of the Typa, and the men commenced "mud-larking," as they termed it. The Typa is filling up so rapidly that we never could get out now without a scrape, and the senior officer perhaps thought it better we should move before we had formed a bar with our beef bones.
So out of the Typa again we got, poised our wings in the outer harbor, and took flight for Whampoa again, and settled down in our old resting place in the "Reach," on the 11th of October. From here I took another trip to Canton, made a few purchases, as I then supposed it would be our last opportunity. Heard there of an extensive fire which had raged near the factories, in which over five hundred houses had been destroyed. A fire in Canton is a serious affair, and from the ideas of fatalism which the Chinese entertain, is much dreaded by foreign residents.
Our stay at Whampoa was not marked by any incidents worth noticing, and it is only to keep up the chronological character of my journal, that the trip is introduced.
Anson's Bay—Hong-Kong again—P. & O. Company's hulk takes fire—Escape of Captain's wife—Toong-Koo Bay—Piracy—Fire at Macào—Wolf again at Whampoa—Amateur Theatricals at Canton—Melancholy musings.
From Whampoa, came down the river to Anson's Bay and anchored; here held communication with our consort, which went up to the "Reach" to take our place.
Anson's Bay is just outside of the Bogue, and from our anchorage had a fine view of the Forts, some eight or nine being in sight. Tiger Island was also conspicuous, and the formation of a tiger's head quite apparent.
From Anson's Bay took our departure for Hong-Kong, where moored ship on the 19th October.
On the 20th, at about 5 P. M., the Peninsular and Oriental Company's hulk "Fort William," used for storing coal and opium, took fire and burned until 10 o'clock that night, when the fire was got under. Our crew assisted, with buckets from the ship, nearly all of which they managed to lose. The Captain's wife, who lived on board the hulk, had a narrow escape, having to be lowered out of the stern ports.
From Hong-Kong over to Macào, where obtained permission to go into Toong-Koo Bay for the purpose of calking, preparatory to our long voyage home, upon which we now hoped to be ordered daily; the rolling in the Roads preventing the possibility of effecting it at Macào.
Toong-Koo Bay is in the Cap-sing-moon passage, and about thirty miles from Hong-Kong. The British fleet rendezvoused here during the war with China.
Were anchored near Sam-sah Island, where tents were pitched and the sick placed in them. Every morning one watch was permitted to go on shore to wash their clothes, &c., until relieved by the other watch, so that there was always a little colony on the island. It was otherwise uninhabited.
Strolling over the island, came upon the ruins of a house and some human bones, and ascending a hill had a splendid view of the bay and surrounding islands. These appeared innumerable, like icebergs in the Antarctic circle, cutting up the bay into intricate channels, and as barren, if not as cold, as those ice islands. Pirates are plentiful in this neighborhood, and one morning, at daylight, Afouke, our fast boatman, brought on board two Chinamen, whom he had picked up swimming. They were badly wounded, and stated that about three o'clock that morning, as they were fishing, they were boarded by pirates, who threw fire-balls amongst them, burning them badly, and forcing them to leap into the water to save their fives, and then took possession of their boats. These waters are infested with pirates, who ostensibly pursue the avocation of fishermen, until an opportunity opens to catch men. The English navy did a great deal towards extirpating them, until their government took away the "head money," and now but few expeditions are fitted out; although doubtless the junior officers are as anxious for the service as ever.
The calking completed, reported ourselves at Macào; but no Commodore appearing, and our coppers being worn out, went over to Hong-Kong to get them repaired. Here we got a mail and news from home which was cheering, and increased our desire to start.
Went through a round of dinners at Hong-Kong, exchanging civilities with officers and citizens, but began to get tired of this kind of thing; like the schoolboy, wanted to go home!
At this time the government of Macào changed again, Cardozo being recalled, and Gruimaraens, commander of the corvette "Don Jooa," superseding him, his ex-Excellency departed for Lisbon in the return mail steamer, not much regretted, I understood.
A powder boat laying almost under our bows was robbed, the powder removed, and its keeper carried away, without exciting any attention; so silently was the act performed.
As we were leaving for Macào, the clipper ship Witchcraft came in, disabled, as I have recorded in a previous chapter.
Whilst at Macào, this time, a very extensive fire occurred, amongst China houses near the Bazaar. About thirty were destroyed, and a great many goods. A silk merchant's loss was considerable. So frightened was the fellow, that he removed his goods into a house that was afterwards burned, his own shop escaping; literally "jumping out of the frying-pan into the fire."
On the nineteenth of December, ordered again to Whampoa, to relieve our consort, and protect American interests from that imaginary wolf, the rebellion. Christmas day passed by there gloomily, and the new year commenced unprofitably.
Went up to Canton, to witness a theatrical performance, by amateurs, and was delighted. The room was well fitted up, and the appointments excellent. The play was, "The Schoolfellows,"—a beautiful little drama, by Douglas Jerrold, I believe; and it was admirably cast. Mr. Murray as Tom Drops—a good-hearted, liquor-loving vaut-rien—was inimitable. He was waiter and hostler to a village inn; and the scene in which he, upon wine being called for by a customer, produces, condemns, and consumes, a bottle of the "black seal" was the perfection of acting, the different phases of ebriety were well portrayed, and in the course of the play, additional red patches appeared upon his face, to show the effects of his habits.
Box and Cox was the after-piece; and Mr. Clavering as Mrs. Bouncer, was the very beau-ideal of a landlady, "fair, fat, and forty." The prologue was excellent, and well delivered, and the amateur company had just reason to be proud of their performance.
Having been favored with a copy of the opening address, I transcribe it. Of course, it loses much from the effect given by its composer in its delivery.
The Stanfield and Grieve, upon whose names the happy alliteration is made, are supposed to be celebrated English scene painters. But although the scenery meets with disparagement in the prologue, yet it was very superior; and the interior of the old schoolhouse, with the names of the boys cut into the oaken pannels of the door, and on which Jasper points out to Horace their initials intertwined, was a perfect picture.
Having gone thus far, I cannot omit a notice of Mr. Benjamin Sears' impersonation of the aged schoolmaster, Cedar. The dignity and simplicity of the character combined, was rendered by him in such a manner as almost to bring back those forgotten tears, drawn forth in olden times by that masterpiece of acting of Harry Placide's, in Grandfather Whitehead.
"Our Ladies," who required so much practice "to look modest," had become perfect in that requisite before the upraising of the curtain; and the young gentlemen cast in those characters sustained them with much tact, and knowledge of the demeanor of well-bred ladies: so much so, indeed, that after they had got through their parts, they were added, still in character, to the galaxy of "decorations before the curtain;" and the only faux pas I noticed was by "Marion," who, in being led to her seat in the dress circle, was about to take an unladylike step ever an obstruction, which her (?) innate modesty checked with the impulse.
After the performance, all the characters attended a fancy dress ball in their stage costume; and the pseudo ladies found partners in every dance, and won many hearts by their grace and beauty.
Had also a performance in the "Reach," by the crew of H. B. M. steamer Salamander. The larboard side of the forecastle was allotted to them; and they gave a drama "adapted to their stage," by one of their number called the "Smuggler," which they produced with good effect. The performance was, as they gave out, "under the distinguished patronage of the American and Her Majesty's officers."
But in spite of all these distractions, our delay was barely supportable; and watching the course of the muddy river, the following lament was penned:
Commodore arrives at last—Preparations for a Start—Delay—Washington's Birthday—The Clipper Challenge—Prisoners from her—Homeward Bound!—Reflections on Leaving—Case of Small-Pox—Second visit to Anger.
The flag-ship being now daily expected, we unmoored, and came down to Macào, awaiting her arrival in the outer Roads. Lay there, rolling, with occasional trips on shore, until the fourth of February, when the Commodore's broad pendant hove in sight. He anchored in the roads: and after we had reported, ordered us, by signal, to accompany him to Hong-Kong. Here we anchored, and remained until the squadron were all assembled, when we were ordered back to Macào, to take in provisions for the voyage home, and remove the invalids from the hospital. This accomplished, we returned again to the rendezvous, to receive our final orders, which were to relieve us from duty on the station, and send us home!
Were delayed by the investigation of a mutiny on board the American clipper ship Challenge, the ringleaders being then in custody in the Hong-Kong jail, and the case before the United States Consul.
Washington's birthday came round again whilst we remained in the harbor of Hong-Kong, and was celebrated by our squadron, the guns of which made quite a noise in the ears of the descendants of those who had once denounced him as a rebel.
Took an opportunity to look at the "Challenge." She is an immense vessel, 243 feet long, with 43 feet beam, and over 2,000 tons burthen, but so beautifully proportioned as not to appear above 1,200. Her spars are immense, and she spreads a cloud of canvas. Depend upon it, she will not belie her name, but with any kind of a chance, is destined to make a voyage, which she may confidently challenge the navies of the world to beat!
On the twenty-fifth of February, the prisoners from the Challenge were sent on board, six in number; and at 6 bells P. M. got up anchor, and fired a parting salute, which was returned by the Commodore, gun for gun. Exchanged cheers with the squadron, made an evolution in the harbor, by way of "salaam," and then stood out, with studding-sails set, homeward bound!
There is a sort of unexpressed concern, a kind of shock, that sets one's heart ajar at leaving even the most unpleasant people and places, says one who ought to know, for he had travelled much, and I could not help agreeing with him, as we took our departure: There was but little to regret in leaving China. I had formed few ties there. The places and people (with but few exceptions), if not unpleasant, were at least indifferent. Yet I must admit this unexpressed and inexpressible concern, as our vessel glided out of the harbor of Hong-Kong, towards home.
But we had a long passage before us, and much water to sail through, ere we reached our homes. The China and the Java seas had to be traversed ere the Straits of Sunda gave us a passage to the Indian Ocean, whose bosom we had to plough until the southern point of Africa passed, the Atlantic could be pressed by our keel;—and then not the Ocean of our hemisphere: for many degrees of longitude must be tracked, before we could set them down as West; and the imaginary "Line" divided us from the Northern Ocean, in which lay our port.
Took our departure from the "Ladrone Islands" at 8 o'clock on the night of the twenty-fifth, and the next day at meridian, we had made 128 miles on a S. S. West course. Weather fine; beautiful, easy sailing, with the wind abeam.
On the twenty-seventh, wind hauled ahead, and we only got eighty-eight miles out of the ship in the last twenty-four hours; and for the last two days of February had a dead beat—a thing altogether unlooked for in the China Sea at this season.
On Thursday, eleventh of March,—sea time,—at meridian, we were thirteen miles south of the Line, in long. 107° 22' 55'' east; being the third time of our "crossing" it. A few days previous to this a case of small-pox had broken out, one of the prisoners having contracted the disease in Hong-Kong, where it had been raging to some extent. This was rather a serious matter in a small and crowded ship at sea; but he, being placed in the lee quarter boat, and a strong N. E. monsoon then prevailing, after a while recovered, no contagion having been communicated to the ship's company.
The Island of Saint Barbe was passed on the morning of the last date. It is a beautiful island, uninhabited, and as near the line as can be.
On St. Patrick's day, 17th. March, came to anchor at Anger, where we stopped for a supply of water and wood. I have described this place in an earlier chapter, and on landing found the town without much change. The Banyan tree still there, with the Dutch flag above it, and the string of half clad Malays on their usual walk between it and the Bazaar. The former mansion of the Governor had been destroyed by fire, and a new Governor had been installed, who occupied the house formerly used as a hotel. He was absent on official duty, but his Secretary did the honors of reception.
Naturally looking round for our old friend, the Dutch landlord, found him in a smaller house, his only customer; had expected to have heard that he had fallen a victim to his love for "schnapps," but here he was as blooming as ever, and as much addicted to his national liquor—certainly gin appeared to have agreed with him.
Took possession of his quarters at once, and ordered a supper, of which some slap-jacks was the only dish eatable. Composed ourselves for the night, on a mattress hauled from his own bed, with expectation of a more comfortable breakfast, which, with the addition of eggs, and the omission of slap-jacks, was a fac-simile of the evening meal.
There was one thing peculiar about the eggs, which I would recommend be introduced into the United States, viz., to have the date of the time in which they were laid marked upon the shell, as he had, only proposing that the marker be sworn as to the correctness of the date; in which case the Dutchman would have perjured himself, I fear.
Had a splendid bath, by favor of the Secretary, in the Governor's bath-house, which was large enough to swim in, and constantly supplied with fresh water by the same aqueduct that brings it to the shipping. Our compradore gave us a treat of mangusteens, delicious fruit, and then the cornet being hoisted at the fore, the signal for sailing, repaired on board, having spent twenty-four hours very pleasantly again at Anger.
No Musquitoes at Anger—The Land of the East—A Sketch—Advantages of Anger—Dolce-far-Niente—Island of Java—Batavia—Bantam—Comparison between Anger and Singapore.
A peculiarity about Anger is, that there are no musquitoes there, and very few of the noxious vermin that destroy the romance of tropical climes. It does very well in poetry, to pen, in pretty phrase, the query of your acquaintance with the