but they are more than poetically "emblems of deeds that are done in their clime," and gastric derangement from the former fruit, with cutaneous affections from the sweet-scented vine, are not the only proofs of a change in the properties of the Garden of Eden. "Latet anguis in herba," of the most inviting natural lawn, and of its gayest flowers, truly has the poet said, "the trail of the serpent is over them all." The East is called the "land of the sun," and justly too, for he reigns supreme there, and if you defy his power, soon brings you to your senses, or rather deprives you of them, by a coup de soleil. Evading his beams you seek the covert of a grateful shade, where the spreading palm, with parasol-like leaves, forms romantic shelter, the cocoa-nut in its triple cluster hanging invitingly in its crotch; away high up upon its straight and graceful stem, birds of magnificent plumage are flitting from tree to tree, making the grove vocal with their notes; monkeys, mischievous, but not considered dangerous, dance overhead upon the boughs, and with comic antics provoke a smile. With gentle breezes wafting perfumes such as Gouraud never was gladdened with in his most happy ambrosial dreams, and glimpses of the blue sky, seen partially through the waving foliage, which gently moves with a composing sound, reminding you that "Heaven is above all," you close your eyes, about to sink into the arms of the "twin sister" of that mysterious deity, who bears you thither, when—wiss-s-rattle, crack—down comes a cocoa-nut, denting the ground within two inches from whence you had just jerked your happy head, which had it hit would have transferred you from the arms of one "twin" to the other; and a malicious monkey scampers off chattering and grinning, as if he had performed a feat worthy of his prototype—man!
"Oh know you the land of the orange and myrtle?" where the Thug crawls cautiously with his strangling cord, and the tiger welcomes you with his feline fangs!
But Anger—please pronounce it softly, as if written thus, Anjeer—Anger is not so bad as described in the foregoing sketch; as I have stated, there are no musquitoes there, and you are not much troubled with those bumping, buzzing bugs, who "put out the light, and then put out their light." Lizards crawl over the walls and ceilings, but they are harmless, and catch flies. I do not know how it is, and it may be thought a strange taste, but I rather affection the lizard. His frugal habits, his unobtrusive manners, and that cunning blink of his bright black eyes, have taken away that aversion which is a natural sentiment towards that species of animals "which crawl upon the belly;" and upon the whole, must confess I consider him, despite his ugly tail, a very proper domestic animal; more so than many other gluttonous pets.
Tigers, it is true, are said to prowl about at night, seeking something to devour, but I never encountered one, else I might not have been here to write about them. Crocodiles infest the stream that winds around and about the Malay houses. But they do not appear to hold them in dread, for I have seen men, women, children and crocodiles in the same water, and at the same time. That they, the crocodiles, are not converts to Malthus, is pretty apparent, from the number of tender infants they permit to be added to the census of the Malay population.
Upon the whole, there was something about Anger peculiarly pleasing to me; whether that it had been the "first of Eastern lands" I had trodden upon, or there could have been any thing conducive to the "dolce-far-niente" feeling in its atmosphere, but I felt as if I could have laid back and smoked segars in Mynheer's porch for the remainder of my days—
Don't know how long the feeling would have lasted had I indulged it ad libitum; but I certainly did enjoy the few hours passed there in a kind of dreamy abstraction, which approached the pleasure of the opium-eater's reverie.
The Island of Java, sometimes called "Great," on account of Balie having once been called by the same name, is nearly five hundred miles in length, and a place of considerable importance in the commercial world; that part of it occupied by the Dutch, producing coffee, rice, and "straits produce." Batavia, the principal settlement, is a city of considerable importance, only about sixty miles by land from Anger, a communication being kept up by post between the two places. It is described as a very populous and beautiful city, but of a climate, at certain seasons, deadly to Europeans. The Governor-General of the Dutch possessions in the East Indies, resides at Batavia, and it is the dépôt of the Dutch trade. It is well known that the English possessed themselves of this place after the provinces had declared war against Great Britain, and lost more men during its short occupancy, by disease, than by the casualties of war. Bantam is also neighboring to Anger, with which a post route is also kept up; it was once a place of considerable importance, but has fallen into decay, Batavia obtaining its trade, and rising upon its ruins.
Anger itself, from its advantageous position in the Straits of Sunda, with an enterprising population, might become a place of considerable importance, and rival in time its neighbor, Sincapore, in the Straits of Malacca. It is now the stopping place for nearly every vessel passing through these Straits for water and provisions, and there is nothing to prevent its becoming an emporium for the products of this fertile Island, excepting the short-sighted policy of the Dutch, who wishing to centre all the trade at Batavia, force the merchantmen to a sickly city for the pepper, coffee, rice, &c., raised upon it. Nothing is allowed to be exported from Anger, and when we wished to procure some coffee for use on board ship, found it only could be obtained in an underhand manner. If the English when they took possession of the island, had but made a settlement and retained this point, they would have found it greatly to their advantage, even more profitable than Sincapore.
Pass through Sunda Strait—H. B. M. S. Rattler—Catch the Trades—A learned opinion on Diaries—Extracts from Diary—Isle of France—Its Romance—Bourbon—Mauritius—Cape of Good Hope—Description—Trouble in getting in—Table Bay and Mountain.
In passing through the Straits, after leaving Anger, H. B. M. screw propeller "Rattler" went up on her way to China. Did not envy her officers, nor feel at all inclined to exchange with them.
Ran out of the Straits with a fine leading wind, taking our departure from Java-Head at early daylight on the morning of the 19th of March; struck the "trades" at once, and held them to the 28th, when had made 1550 miles.
The distance run, by log, from Hong-Kong to Anger, was just nineteen hundred forty-five and three-fourth miles, making us at that time exactly three thousand four hundred and ninety-six on our way home. This was done in a little over thirty days, including stoppage.
The learned Baron of Verulam has said: "It is a strange thing in sea voyages, when there is nothing to be seen but sea and sky, that men should make diaries, and omit them in land travel, as if chance were fitter to be registered than observation." Now I have made my diary, both at sea and on shore, and copy from it:
At Sea, Sunday, April 11th, 1852.—Have now run down to the southward of the Island of Madagascar, and are in the same longitude, having passed the Isle of France, or the "Mauritius," and Bourbon safely. Hurricanes prevail off these islands, but we have only had one small blow. Last Sunday caught a shark, about seven feet and a half long. Some of the men ate part of him.
Beautiful "Isle of France," degraded into Mauritius by the Dutch in honor of their Stadtholder Maurice, but made celebrated by the pen of Bernardin St. Pierre, as the scene of the life, loves and "fate of Paul and Virginia, and consecrated by their tomb!" Creative power of genius, thus to constitute an insignificant island, far, far away amongst the distant waves of the Indian Ocean, a shrine to which pilgrims shall resort in honor of true and young and ill-starred love!
Bourbon, too, the Island of Rëunion—happy nomenclature—has also pleasant associations connected with its name.
Madagascar, however, from its importance, is worthy of a passing notice. It is one of the largest islands known. It covers, in the Indian Ocean, the spaces between latitudes 12° and 25° degrees south, and the longitudes 43° and 51° east of London; at a close calculation, has been found to fill up a superficies of over two hundred thousand square miles;—equal in extent to the Pyrenean peninsula, composed of Spain and Portugal. It has been but little explored; but treaties have been made with its reigning powers by both Great Britain and the United States.
Monday, April 19th.—At sea, in latitude 35° 13', about one degree south of the Cape. Have been prevented from making entries in diary by rough weather, and heartily joined the schoolmaster in his wish, that "if Britannia ruled the waves, she would bring them more parallel to the 'Line!'"
Sunday, April 25th, 1852.—Are now off the Cape of Good Hope, called by its discoverer, Diaz, Cabo Tormentoso, or the Tormenting Cape, from the storms he encountered in its latitude. And well was it named, too, in our case; for here we are, with a wind right in our teeth, trying to beat up to Table Bay, and chasseeing to the Cape, as if to a stationary partner.
Just sixty days from China, and have run by reckoning seven thousand one hundred and forty-five miles,—our course giving us five thousand one hundred and ninety-four and one-half miles from Anger.
On Friday night last, while becalmed off Cape Algulhas, caught a number of very fine fish on the Algulhas banks. One kind was called "Cape Salmon;" another species was known at Cape Town by the name of "King Clip."
On last Sunday, had made our calculations to be in Cape Town on the ensuing Tuesday, from the fine wind we had; but if we get in by next Tuesday, shall consider ourselves fortunate. Can appreciate the situation of Mynheer Vanderdecken now, and his anxiety to forward letters by passing vessels. Shall take advantage of the steamer for England, at Cape Town, to forward some myself; which have hopes will be more fortunate in reaching their destination than the dispatches of the Flying Dutchman, passing there, as they will, through the Colonial Post Office.
The Cape of Good Hope is not the most extreme point of Southern Africa, the before-mentioned Algulhas extending farther into the Southern Ocean. Cape Town is to the westward of the Cape, upon an indentation called Table Bay. But I will now resume my diary, as we are approaching a place proper for it to be kept, according to the learned Lord Bacon. The next date is,
Southern Atlantic Ocean, May 3d, 1852.—Since last entry have been into Table Bay, for water, and have been on shore at Cape Town. Are now, as above, in latitude 30° 24' south, with the wind dead aft, heading up the Atlantic for home: and from our last departure, begin to say at last, "We're homeward bound!"
On Monday last, April 26th, came to anchor in Table Bay about 5 P. M., having spent that and the previous day in trying to get in.
The approach to Cape Town is interesting; Table Mountain, with its extensive flat top, forming a prominent feature.
Before you round the point, which shuts in the anchorage, and excludes a view of the town, leaving only the heavy brow of this mountain visible, you pass along a coast composed of a long sloping hill in the proportions of a lion couchant. It extends eastwardly and westwardly, and the "Lion's Head" is first seen as you approach from the eastward. Upon the mount called thus, is a large rock, very similar in appearance to the outlines of a sculptured lion, of the Egyptian style of carving. The hill gradually diminishing, makes a good representation of the mane and hinder parts of a reposing lion; on what is distinguished as "the Rump," is a signal station: along the part forming the flanks are distributed beautiful country-seats: rounding "the Rump," the town is visible, with Table Bay, and shipping.
Table Bay in itself is not very imposing; is a bad roadstead, and vessels intending to make any stay at the colony, go round to Simon's Bay, which is a safe roadstead within the larger one called False Bay. Numerous windmills along the shore are remarkable objects, and prove the scarcity of water to grind the corn. It is a feature in the economy of Southern Africa, that streams, which are torrents at one season, become almost dry beds in the other.
Table Mountain, with the well laid out town at its base, flanked by "Devil's Peak" and "Lion's Head," makes a majestic, natural frame to a beautiful landscape. This singular mountain, before whose noble proportions the works of man sink into insignificance,—his dwellings appearing, from its summit, mere ant-hills,—is 3,582 feet above the level of the ocean; and for one thousand or more feet from its top descends on the north-east side perpendicularly, whilst the flat appearance of its lengthened surface completes the resemblance to the piece of furniture from which it receives its soubriquet.
The long even line, cutting the sky at right angles, was very pretty to look at while I was there. But a few weeks after, when Æolus spreads "the cloth," and invites the winds to a feast, then let the mariner, whose vessel may be caught in the bay beneath, beware. Forth from their revels they rush over its precipitous sides, and ships become their play-things, and man their prey!
Land at Cape Town—Hotels and Widows—Drive to Constantia—Description of Drive—Price of Wine—Manumission of Slaves—Seasons at the Cape—The Town through a Microscope, &c. &c.
Landed at Cape Town on a fine jetty, which projects some distance into the bay. This, with another about a mile above, are the only landing places. Stopped at "Parke's Hotel," at its head. This is kept by a widow lady, and a spruce dandy of a mulatto superintends its internal arrangements in the capacity of steward. There are two other hotels,—"The Masonic," and "Welch's,"—and a club-house. I believe all the houses of entertainment here have widows at their head—Sam Weller's injunction needed here—"Parke's" I know to be; "Welch's," I think, is; and two "Widows," at least in name, being man and wife with that appellation, spread forth the good things at "The Masonic;" and I have heard there are no bereavements there.
After a fine bath,—my first care in every port,—took a stroll through the town. There is at the head of the street, on which the hotel was situated, a splendid wide avenue, planted with rows of majestic oaks, their branches meeting overhead. This extends over one mile; on one side of it is the Governor's Palace and grounds, cut off from vulgar feet by a moat, or walled ditch, and accessible by a small drawbridge from the avenue. Opposite is a Botanical Garden.
With a party from the ship, hired a splendid barouche and team, and drove out to "Constantia," about thirteen miles, where the wine is made. It is a most beautiful drive, lined on either side by English country-houses, with surrounding grounds, intersected by broad avenues, smooth roads and walks, with green lawns spreading out around them, covered with close-clipped oak trees.
The drive was rather dusty, which somewhat detracted from its pleasure; but a shower of rain opportunely coming up, made the return more agreeable.
Passed through a number of villages, among them Wynberg,—a nourishing, pretty place. Saw a great number of school-houses and churches; but taverns, "licensed to sell spirituous liquors," as appeared upon their signs, were most numerous on this road. A small chapel was being built, which, from its dimensions, supposed to be of the established church, and no increase of congregation expected.
Visited the Vinery of S. Van Renen & Co., High Constantia. Was well received, although the coachman drove us to the wrong place; and we handed him a letter addressed to a Mr. Colyin, a neighbor, thinking it to be his place.
The grape season was over: wine had been all pressed and stowed away. They gather the grape in March, but it is allowed to become almost a raisin on the stem before it is plucked. Tasted these wines; found them sweet and luscious, too much so for my palate. This peculiar flavor is caused by the condition of the grape when pressed.
Prices of Constantia in Cask.
Copied from a Table on the Card of S. Van Renen & Co.
| 19 Gallons. | 10 Gallons. | 5 Gallons. | ||
| Pontac Constantia, | £14 | £8 | £5 | |
| Frontignac | " | 10 | 6 | 4 |
| White | " | 9 | 5 | 3 |
| Red | " | 9 | 5 | 3 |
M. Van Renen, whom we found on the premises, after exhibiting the different wines, took us over the place, and showed us a collection of the different aborigines of South Africa, in statuary. There were Kaffirs, Hottentots, Fingoes, Betjouanas, and Boschmen. M. V. deprecated the abolition of slavery as a great injury to the agriculturists and vine-growers of the colony. They can get no one to perform any continuous labor, and whilst at one time his establishment kept eighty able-bodied men at work, would find it difficult to get three now whom they could depend upon. Living in a climate where clothing beyond the demands of decency is scarcely needed, and where the products of labor for two days will support the careless negro for one week, naturally improvident, he takes no heed for the morrow, and becomes lazy, idle, and intemperate; and when he can be persuaded to work, with the prospect of high wages, wherewith to purchase that necessary stimulus which has already nearly deprived him of his capacities, as soon as he can obtain them he rushes to the grog shop, from whence he may not be expected to return until his wants compel him again to his intermittent labor.
The colonists, especially the agricultural part of them, complain bitterly of hasty legislation in depriving them of slave labor. They had offered to submit to a gradual manumission, so that by degrees they might be able to supply the place of the negro operatives, but the English government would set them free at once, and the result has been injurious to the freedman and ruinous to the farmer. Was told that land could be purchased about Constantia at the low rate of one shilling the acre, altogether owing to the inability to procure labor to cultivate it; and to bring about this state of things here and elsewhere, some £20,060,000 was expended!
Returning from Constantia, our spanking team of four well proportioned iron grays, attracted considerable attention. It ought to have, for the expense of its hire was two pounds ten shillings. Stopped at the "Crown Inn," upon the road, for refreshments, and on handing a ragged little urchin a shilling for his voluntary service of standing at the door of our barouche, on starting off were saluted by a hiss for our generosity. A greater douceur was expected from the drivers of such a magnificent turnout.
The road, a greater part of it, was a turnpike, very even and smooth; paid toll, one shilling. Drove through an avenue of large oak trees, their topmost branches meeting overhead, to the extent of one fourth of a mile, forming a fine shade in summer. The seasons, of which there are but two, winter and summer, are reversed in Southern Africa; July being a cool month, and Christmas coming in midsummer at the Cape.
Returned to dinner at the hotel at seven o'clock, and ate some splendid Cape mutton. The caudal arrangements of the sheep at the Cape bear a great similarity to those at Shanghae.
After supper set out for a walk, in which were disappointed by a shower. It rains only in the winter season here, but heavy dews in the summer make up this deficiency of nature's nourishment, and the colony is carpeted with herbage of the most delicious fragrance, so that the paths of the colonists may then be said to be strewn with flowers.
The winters at the Cape are extremely mild; no snow falls there; and if at night ice is formed, it does not long withstand the rays of the sun. The season corresponds in its general features with our autumn. In the interior the winters are said to be more severe, and streams are sometimes frozen over.
Although it was the first winter month, in M. Van Renen's orange grove at Constantia, the trees were so laden with the Hesperian fruit, that their limbs were bent to the ground and many broken. Saw there also, pomegranates, liquots, rose apples, and a variety of tropical fruits, some ready to pluck, others in different stages of ripening.
Up betimes the next morning for a walk through Cape Town. Streets wide and clean, principally paved or macadamized. No banquettes; porches project in front of the houses, covering the trottoir, and pedestrians are forced into the middle of the street. That Hibernian must have been an emigrant to Cape Town, who remarked that "the middle of the street was the best side of the way."
The houses, however, present a fine appearance externally; they are usually about three stories in height, and being stuccoed, are painted in imitation of free-stone. Their tops are flat, to which their occupants repair to spend the remainder of the evening after their late dinners. There is a freshness about the place which is quite reviving after many days at sea, and was particularly pleasant to us, who had seen nothing but filthy Chinese towns for two years and upwards; Hong-Kong having been the nearest approach to a civilized community we had visited during the cruise, and even there the "long-tailed pig-eyed Celestial" predominated.
The parade ground is an extensive oblong space running along the strand, with a ditch dividing it from Strand-street. It has a border of a double row of fine flowering trees, and must be a delightful place for a stroll on a summer evening.
The Commercial Exchange and Library rooms are upon it, fronting the principal street; and back of the Exchange is a rough brick and mortar pillar to mark the spot where Sir J. Herschell, the astronomer, made his observations.
Near the parade ground, and facing it, are the barracks, manned at that time by women, their husbands, the soldiers, having been shipped off to Kaffir land. By the way; a terrible accident had occurred a few weeks before our arrival, to her Britannic Majesty's steamer Berkenhead, employed in transporting troops up the coast, to the war. She struck upon "Point Danger," and going down almost immediately, four out of five hundred of those on board were drowned.
I was told that only about eighty men had been left to garrison the town, and that a panic had lately been gotten up, from fears of a rising of the colored population. The lazy negroes, whom England, in her mistaken philanthropy, had liberated, not being compelled to work, chose to rob and steal.
The Custom-house, an unpretending building, with the letters and numerals G. IV. R. over its portals, is also on Strand-street, fronting the "Parade."
Early on the last morning ashore took a walk to the new market on the outskirts of the town, where the wholesale farmers bring their produce by teams drawn by from ten to fifteen yoke of oxen. These animals are the most suitable beasts for draught I have ever seen. With their long legs they get over the ground nearly as fast as a horse, in a walk, and, when required, go off in a fine, easy, and not ungraceful trot. They bring in immense loads, and come a great distance, over mountainous ways. The wagons they draw resemble those known as the Conestoga, on many of which noticed a projection astern something like a poop, serving as a sleeping cabin for the owners and drivers. In meeting these teams on the road, one at first imagines them to be a drove of beeves, but is soon undeceived by the crack of the lash—"long as the maintop-bowline"—striking against the side of a lagging bullock.
The new market is walled in, with gateways at either side to admit these teams, which, when they enter, and the wagon has been placed in a line with others, are outspanned, that is, detached; and form an immense herd in front of the wagons, the line of which, with the wall of the market place, make a complete corral.
The reason why I call these farmers wholesale, is, that all the produce brought by them is disposed of by lot to the highest bidders, according to "rise and fall" by auctioneers, who regularly attend for this purpose.
Met a number of this gentry hurrying to their duties on my return, having been too early to witness the auction. Hucksters receive their supplies in this manner, which they retail to the citizens—an extra tax, I should suppose, upon the honest burghers, from whose pockets must eventually be drawn the amount paid as commission to the auctioneers.
Settlement of Cape Town—Its productions—The Kaffir War—Latest dispatches—Cause of the Rebellion—Description of the Kaffir by the Traveller—Opinion of him by the Resident—Authority of prominent men—Observatory, &c.
Within larger limits I would willingly indulge in a more extended description of Southern Africa, which is set down by geographers as the "Cape Region;" but as each day now diminishes our cruise, so does each chapter deprive me of space for digression, and I must confine myself to the Cape Colony, or more properly speaking, to Cape Town and its environs.
The town is in latitude 33° 55' 30'' south, and as the Observatory has been decided to be in longitude 18° 29', and is distant three miles and a quarter from the town, due east, it would be placed 18° 25' 45'' east longitude.
The Cape of Good Hope, which is not the extremity of Southern Africa, as some geographers have it—"Lagullas" protruding further into the Indian Ocean—was discovered by Bartholomew Diaz in 1486, who gave it the name of the "Tormenting Cape," as previously stated, which was afterwards changed into its present title by the far-seeing Emanuel, and the hopes he then entertained of his navigators reaching the rich shores of the far "Inde," were made good by Vasco de Gama, eleven years after its discovery. The Dutch made their settlement here in 1652, of which they were deprived by the English in 1795, who afterwards restored it to them by treaty at Amiens, in 1802. Eventually it was ceded to Great Britain in 1815. The colony is quite extensive, and would be very productive but for numerous local causes which impede its growth. One of these has been named in the system of labor; but the most important impediment is want of unanimity amongst the settlers themselves. The Dutchman clinging to his ancient customs and habits, which are an abomination in the eyes of the Englishman; and the natives having been once subjected to the tender mercies of the white man, not understanding the use of freedom, or the benefits of self-government, live literally from "hand to mouth," in constant dread of recapture, and being forced, under the eyes of intelligent masters, to properly support themselves.
But even with these drawbacks the colony may be said to be flourishing, and when the Kaffir war is ended, and the Kat River rebellion put down, numerous fertile valleys will be open to the squatter, and contribute from their luxuriant bosoms bountiful supplies of wealth to the colony.
The principal productions of the Cape are grain of all kinds, and the grapes from which the Constantia wines are made. The specimen of wheat which I saw, was certainly superior to any I had ever seen in the United States, and an intelligent merchant there informed me that it is considered the best in the world. From the number of pounds he said it would weigh to a bushel, and its clean large grain, should think it the most profitable to the grower.
When we were at the Cape, the Kaffir war was dragging its slow length along. The troops had been pushed into Kaffraria, and the latest news from the scene of operations appeared in the Government Gazette, published by authority on the 22d April, 1852. Dispatches had been received from camp up to the 4th of that month. Major-General the Hon. George Cathcart, with the local rank of Lieutenant-General, having superseded Sir Harry G. W. Smith, was in command. The campaign was on the Kei, and Lieutenant-Colonel Eyre, 73d regiment, following a spoor of cattle, had captured 1,220 head of Gaika cattle, mostly cows, and fifteen horses.
He had several skirmishes with the enemy, who came forth in considerable numbers to protect their herds. Major Armstrong's passage of the Kei, and charge, is spoken of in warm terms of commendation. In this affair the Kaffirs numbered about 500, of whom 100 were mounted. The gallant Major's command, including himself, was 100; with these he crossed the river under a heavy fire, and dispersed five times his number.
A general order had been published at head-quarters, King William's Town, dated 6th April, 1852, in which the Commander-in-Chief congratulates the army on the prospect of a speedy termination of the war, and states that the troops then occupied every stronghold in the Amatolas, and it was impossible the enemy could retain a footing, so closely was he pursued in every direction. Notwithstanding this cheering announcement, I fear this Kaffir war will resemble in its pursuance and general features our Florida campaigns, although the officers engaged in it will receive more credit than our own; and if their duties are arduous in chasing the Hottentots over mountains, and through rugged defiles, yet they have the advantage of a healthy field of operations, and can bivouac on the mountain ridge, or amongst the green valleys, whilst our troops had to seek their damp beds amidst the miasmatic everglades, or more pestiferous marsh. Again, the Kaffirs do occasionally make a stand, and some very severe actions have taken place between them and the British troops.
This war was caused by a rebellion of a portion of the Hottentots of the Kat River settlement, at Fort Beaufort, and the Theopolis Missionary establishment, in Albany. It is supposed to have originated because of the application of stringent vagrant laws, and from apprehensions of being again forced into slavery. It is carried on on the eastern frontier of the country. The above are the surmised causes, but there are thought to have been other motives. A representative from one of the eastern districts, stated in his place in the Legislative Council, that he considered the rebellion to be a national movement, that all the documents found in the rebel camps were exhortations to stand up in the defence of their nation. "General Orders" had been found which had been scattered over a country 500 miles in extent, and these call upon the colored men to unite and drive the white men into the sea, "of which they are the scum."
Sir Andrew Stockenstrom, from the Kat River settlement, called the rebellion "a Riddle," and the Hon. John Montague, Secretary to Government, ascribes the hostile feelings of the Hottentots, to an idea that they are to be made slaves. One gentleman asks in relation to the subject: "What do we know of the rebellion? Why it was only the other day that an officer of the Government was brought to Cape Town, a prisoner for rebellion!"
A commission, appointed by her Majesty the Queen, consisting of Major Hogge and Mr. Owen, had not then commenced their investigations.
There were some Kaffirs in Cape Town, sent in as witnesses, but did not see them. The following is Barrow's description of this people: "They are tall, robust, and muscular, and distinguished by a peculiar firmness of carriage. Some of them were six feet ten inches, and so elegantly proportioned that they would not have disgraced the pedestal of the Farnese Hercules." Further on, he states: "The natives of Kaffraria, if taken collectively, are perhaps superior, in point of figure, to the inhabitants of any other country on earth; they are indeed exempt from many of those causes which, in civilized society, tend to debilitate and impede the growth of the human body. Their diet is perfectly simple, their exercise conducive to health, and the air they breathe salubrious. Strangers to the licentious appetites which frequently proceed from a depraved imagination, they cheerfully receive the bounteous gifts of nature, and when night sways her ebon sceptre o'er the scene,
After that read the opinions held of them in Cape Town. I make the extracts from the published debates of the Legislative Council of the colony, in assembly there. The Secretary to Government says: "We have before us the most remarkable fact, that hundreds of these people on the frontier, who had lived with the farmers, many of them ten or twelve, and even a greater number of years, suddenly, and without the smallest provocation, turned round and murdered them, or turned them out of their houses with hardly a rag upon them, destroyed their property, and walked over to the enemy." Hardly a man who speaks of them, that does not complain of their pilfering propensities; the farmers grievously as regards their sheep.
There were at one time some 800 rebels at Fort Hare; a great number were allowed to depart. Some 3 or 400 were thrown into a regiment and armed; 50 only of the 800 were convicted. This black regiment became so dangerous, after all the confidence bestowed upon them, that their officers would not go out with them, fearing more to be shot by their own men than the enemy. Shortly after they were found sending ammunition in large quantities to the rebels, and had to be disbanded. One of the members of the Council contended that the Kaffir and the Hottentot (they appeared, indeed, to make little distinction between them) are not to be purchased with favors, or conciliated by constitutional privileges; in his own forcible language, "I feel that no man of experience with regard to the Kaffir and Hottentot, will come to such a conclusion. Like the wild fox, they may, indeed, accept your favors and concessions, but it is only to await a more favorable opportunity of seizing their prey."
Mr. Godlonton, from those provinces, asserted that idleness had been the bane and ruin of the colored classes of the colony, and in the eastern provinces has led to rebellion, anarchy, robbery, and murder.
To prove that I have not made my assertions in a previous page, in regard to the condition of the colored population, and the little benefit conferred upon them by emancipation, hastily and without authority, I quote the opinions of many of the best informed men of the colony, which have the greater weight as coming from persons whose positions placed them above the power of petty prejudices.
A Mr. Stegman gives in evidence that a portion of the Hottentots who went from Cape Town, were in communication with the rebels in the field, and at one time hesitated whether they should use their arms against them, or her Majesty's troops.
Mr. Cock stated, in debate, that within his own knowledge, there was a general fear of the colored races in the eastern districts of the Cape Colony, and he fears that the seeds of disaffection, if not rebellion, are deeply sown within their breasts, and that, if they saw any probability that her Majesty's troops would be subdued, they would at once go over to the rebels; and after asking what has brought this state of things about—what led to the war on the frontier—the desolation of some of the finest districts—desecration of their homesteads, and the spilling of the best blood of the colonists—attributes it to the want of a firm and efficient government.
In relation to the Hottentots enrolled in the Western provinces, it is stated that when they went into the field under Colonel Mackinnon, and were attacked near the Amatola, they were saved from destruction by the interposition of the seventy-third regiment.
A gentleman, who is called a "native foreigner," thus expresses himself: "I know the Hottentot character well, as well as any man in the colony. I am a colonist born, and I believe from my soul, that it will be the most dangerous experiment ever made to allow these men to vote under a franchise amounting to universal suffrage."
The Secretary of Government stated: "We had nearly a rebellion here (at Cape Town), amongst the same class of colored people as those at the East, and although the panic had partially subsided, the hostile disposition of that class against the whites had assuredly not." So much for the fidelity of, and the confidence reposed in, the colored classes of the Cape Colony.
The population of the Cape is heterogeneous; composed of Dutch, English, French, Germans, Malays, Hottentots, emancipated Slaves, Betjouanas, Fingoes, and others coming under the name of native foreigners; which, I take it, means the same as the West India word "creole"—one born of European parents in a colony. The Dutch, as being the earliest settlers, are most numerous, of those laying claims to white blood; but all the power is in the hands of the English, of course, who are too quick-witted for the phlegmatic "Boer," the term they apply to the Hollander. After the French and Germans, a small proportion, and the few Malays now left, comes the Hottentot—the Aborigine. With them are enumerated the other colored races, as having the mark of degradation stamped by the Almighty upon the first-born of mankind. The "emancipated slaves," having, with a few exceptions, originally sprung from that race, have been but little raised in the scale of humanity, during their term of servitude to the Dutch.
Wished much to have visited the celebrated Observatory, but understood its interior had been destroyed by fire, a few weeks before. There are many constellations seen at the Cape not visible elsewhere.
Was disappointed also in examining the Library; I wanted to overhaul the celebrated Cape Records, said to be interesting.
A Death on board—Our Freight—Extracts from Diary—St. Helena and Napoleon—The Trades—Poetical idea of a starry Telegraph—Good Sailing.
One of the invalids, whom we were bringing home from the squadron, died and was buried at Cape Town. Poor fellow, he was never destined to see his native land again. His disease, consumption, with the usual tendency of that complaint, made rapid advances as we drew near land. He had resigned himself to die, and his repeated wish was that we might reach the Cape before he should breathe his last; that he might feel assured of resting in consecrated ground. He was of the Catholic faith, and had his wish, for a priest of his religion attended his remains to their last resting-place, where the seagull swoops, on the shores of the "stormy Cape."
On leaving the Cape, our ship presented the appearance of a vessel engaged by naturalists to bring home specimens; and the botanical department was represented by boxes containing specimens of sugar-cane placed in the quarter, stern boats, and on the poop. Monkeys, belonging to the men, made a menagerie on the booms. Others of the genus simia were stationed in the tops; an aviary composed of cockatoos, Cape parrots, Java sparrows, minas, &c., was dispersed through different messes; whilst indigenous animals, such as rats, mice, cockroaches and ants, had their appropriate haunts.
Fifth of May.—"Rolling down to St. Helena," as the sailors' song has it. Have passed the latitude of Angra Pequena, on the African coast, where Martin Diaz the Portuguese navigator erected a cross, and gave it the additional title of Santa Cruz. This emblem is said to have been lately overthrown by an English merchant captain. I can imagine the Goth, bloated with beer, and vomiting forth strange oaths!
May the 10th.—Still heading for St. Helena, which calculate on making within three days. Have caught the "trades," but indeed have had winds answering their purpose ever since we left the Cape, having had them generally aft.
On the 13th of May at 10 h. 30 m. made the loom of the Island of St. Helena, bearing N. N. E. per compass, passed it about thirty miles to windward, just twelve days and a half from the Cape, within the average passage.
Helena, lone hermit of the ocean, saddened by the memory of Napoleon, its involuntary hermit. But the dead lion no longer reposes there; his remains have been transferred to one of his own splendid monuments in unfaithful but now penitent Paris; and the spirit of prophecy must have prompted the pen of Byron to write, long before the event took place—
May 19th.—In latitude 8° 50' south, 19° 33' west longitude, approaching the line; have had fine trades; now getting light; weather warm, and fine; for the last few days summer clothing in demand.
Sunday, 23d of May.—Trade wind still holds on; three sail in sight; one passed across our bows bound to the southward and westward, and showed Dutch colors.
Thursday, 27th May, 1852.—Crossed the line last night in about longitude 34° west; are now in the northern Atlantic, and fairly in our own hemisphere; have hit the same day of the month to cross it, in returning; going out the 26th of February, 1850, and coming back the 26th of May, 1852. What has passed in the interval! Is it not faithfully recorded on these pages?
Are now looking out for the N. E. trades, and have symptoms of soon getting them. With luck shall make our port within a month from present date.
Tuesday, June 1st.—Within this month expected to be detached; for the last few days have encountered calms and squalls, line weather, and have not made much progress; got no observation yesterday; last night at half past eleven the master took a lunar, which put us in 3° 17' north latitude. Whilst writing have struck a fine breeze, which we hope will soon carry us out of the doldrums.
Third of June.—Latitude 7° 1' north; have caught the trades at last; after coquetting for several days, these winds, so constant when caught, have consented to fill our sails, and we are now careering along, knocking off hourly nine knots of the distance which divides us from our homes. It is pleasant sailing, too, in these trades, and when you once strike them, you feel secure of their continuance up to a certain parallel. All you have to do is to set your sails, studding-sails, royals, moonsails and sky-scrapers, if you carry them; keep them full, and let your vessel go dancing along, day after day, without handling a brace. Seamanship may take a spell below, for your ship will almost sail herself!
Saw the northern or polar star last night for the first time, a few degrees above the horizon, peeping at us with its twinkling eye, as much as to say, welcome home! Hailed it as a link connecting us with our native land. How many eyes of persons dear to us, look upon that star, when they think of us. Its appearance suggests the following idea: