Nancy shut the door of her apartment behind
her, and slipped out into the dimly
lit corridor. From her sitting-room came a
burst of concerted laughter, the sound of
Betty’s sweet, high pitched voice raised in sudden
protest, and then the echo of some sort of
a physical struggle; and Caroline took the piano
and began to improvise.
“They won’t miss me,” Nancy said to herself,
“I must have air.” She drew a long breath
with a hand against her breast, apparently to
relieve the pressure there. “I can’t stay shut
up in a room,” she kept repeating as if she were
stating the most reasonable of premises, and
turning, fled down the two flights of stairs that
led to the outside door of the building.
The breath of the night was refreshingly cool
upon her hot cheeks, and she smiled into the
darkness gratefully. Across the way a row of
brownstone houses, implacably boarded up for
the summer, presented dull and dimly defined
50
surfaces that reflected nothing, not even the
lights of the street, or the shadow of a passing
straggler. Nancy turned her face toward the
avenue. The nostalgia that was her inheritance
from her father, and through him from a long
line of ancestors that followed the sea whither
it might lead them, was upon her this night, although
she did not understand it as such. She
only thought vaguely of a strip of white beach
with a whiter moon hung high above it, and the
long silver line of the tide,—drawing out.
“I wish I had a hat on,” she said. There was
a night light in the chemist’s shop at the corner,
and the panel of mirror obligingly placed
for the convenience of the passing crowd, at the
left of the big window, showed her reflection
quite plainly. She was suddenly inspired to
take the soft taffeta girdle from the waist of
her dark blue muslin gown, and bind it turban-wise
about her head. The effect was pleasingly
modish and conventional, and she quickened her
steps—satisfied. There was a tingle in the air
that set her blood pleasantly in motion, and
she established a rhythm of pace that made her
feel almost as if she were walking to music.
Insensibly her mind took up its responsibilities
51
again as the blood, stimulated from its temporary
inactivity, began to course naturally
through her veins.
“There is plenty of beer and ginger ale in
the ice-box,” she thought, “and I’ve done this
before, so they won’t be unnaturally disturbed
about me. Billy wanted to take Caroline home
early, and Dick can go on up-town with Betty,
without making her feel that she ought to leave
him alone with me for a last tête-à-tête. It will
hurt Dick’s feelings, but he understands really.
He has a most blessed understandingness, Dick
has.”
She had the avenue almost entirely to herself,
a silent gleaming thoroughfare with the
gracious emptiness that a much lived in street
sometimes acquires, of a Sunday at the end of
an adventurous season. It was early July, the
beginning of the actual summer season in New
York. Nancy had never before been in town so
late in the year, nor for that matter had Caroline
or Betty, but Betty’s interest in the affairs
of the Inn was keeping her at Nancy’s side,
while Caroline had just accepted a secretarial
position in one of the big Industrial Leagues
recently organized by women for women, that
52
would keep her in town all summer. Billy and
Dick, by virtue of their respective occupations,
were never away from New York for longer
than the customary two weeks’ vacation.
“My soul smoothed itself out, a long cramped
scroll,”—her conscience placated on the score of
her deserted guests, Nancy was quoting Browning
to herself, as she widened the distance between
herself and them. “I wonder why I
have this irresistible tendency to shake the people
I love best in the world at intervals. I am
such a really well-balanced and rational individual,
I don’t understand it in myself. I
thought the Inn was going to take all the nonsense
out of me, but it hasn’t, it appears,” she
sighed; “but then, I think it is going to take the
nonsense out of a lot of people that are only
erratic because they have never been properly
fed. I guess I’ll go and have a look at the old
place in its Sunday evening calm. Already it
seems queer not to be there at nine o’clock in
the evening, but I don’t really think there are
people enough in New York now on Sundays to
make it an object.”
Nancy’s feet turned mechanically toward the
arena of her most serious activities. Like most
53
of us who run away, she was following by instinct
the logical periphery of her responsibilities.
The big green latticed gate was closed against
all intruders. Nancy had the key to its padlock
in her hand-bag, but she had no intention of
using it. The white and crimson sign flapped
in the soft breeze companionably responsive to
the modest announcement, “Marble Workshop,
Reproductions and Antiques, Garden Furniture,”
which so inadequately invited those
whom it might concern to a view of the petrified
vaudeville within. Through the interstices
of the gate the courtyard looked littered and
unalluring;—the wicker tables without their
fine white covers; the chairs pushed back in a
heterogeneous assemblage; the segregated columns
of a garden peristyle gaunt against the
dark, gleamed a more ghostly white than the
weather-stained busts and figures less recently
added to the collection. It seemed to Nancy
incredible that the place would ever bloom again
with lights and bouquets and eager patrons,
with her group of pretty flower-like waitresses
moving deftly among them. She stared at the
spot with the cold eye of the creator whose
54
handiwork is out of the range of his vision, and
the inspiration of it for the moment, gone.
“I feel like Cinderella and her godmother
rolled into one,” she thought disconsolately. “I
waved my wand, and made so many things
happen, and now that the clock has struck,
again here I am outside in the cold and dark,”—the
wind was taking on a keener edge, and
she shivered slightly in her muslins—“with
nothing but a pumpkin shell to show for it.
Hitty says that getting what you want is apt
to be unlikely business, and I’m inclined to
think she’s right.”
It seemed to her suddenly that the thing she
had wanted,—a picturesque, cleverly executed
restaurant where people could be fed according
to the academic ideals of an untried young
woman like herself was an unthinkable thing.
The power of illusion failed for the moment.
Just what was it that she had hoped to accomplish
with this fling at executive altruism?
What was she doing with a French cook in
white uniform, a competent staff of professional
dishwashers and waitresses and kitchen
helpers? How had it come about that she
owned so many mounds and heaps and pyramids
55
of silver and metal and linen? What was
this Inn that she had conceived as a project so
unimaginably fine? Who were these shadow
people that came and went there? Who was
she? Why with all her vitality and all her
hungry yearning for life and adventure
couldn’t she even believe in her own substantiality
and focus? Wasn’t life even real enough
for a creature such as she to grasp it,—if it
wasn’t—
She saw a figure that was familiar to her
turn in from the avenue, a tall man in an Inverness
with a wide black hat pulled down
over his eyes. For the moment she could not
remember who he was, but by the time he had
stopped in front of the big gate, giving utterance
to a well delivered expletive, she knew
him perfectly, and stood waiting, motionless,
for him to turn and speak to her. She was sure
that he would have no recollection of her. He
turned, but it was some seconds before he addressed
her.
“Doubt thou the stars are fire,” he said at
last, with a shrug that admitted her to the companionship
of his discomfiture. “Doubt thou
the sun doth move, doubt truth to be a liar, but
56
never doubt that your favorite New York restaurant
will be closed on a Sunday night.”
“Oh! is it your favorite New York restaurant?”
Nancy cried, her heart in her throat.
“It’s mine, you know, my—my favorite.”
“So I judged, or you wouldn’t be beating
against the gate so disconsolately.” It was too
dark to see his face clearly, but Nancy realized
that he was looking down at her quizzically
through the darkness.
“Do you really like this restaurant?” she persisted.
“In some ways I like it very much. The food
is quite possible as you know, very American in
character, but very good American, and it has
the advantage of being served out-of-doors. I
am a Frenchman by adoption, and I like the
outdoor café. In fact, I am never happy eating
inside.”
“The surroundings are picturesque?” Nancy
hazarded.
The stranger laughed. “According to the
American ideal,” he said, “they are—but I do
admit that they show a rather extraordinary
imagination. I’ve often thought that I should
like to make the acquaintance of the woman,—of
57
course, it’s a woman—who conceived the notion
of this mortuary tea-room.”
“Why, of course, is it a woman?”
“A man wouldn’t set up housekeeping in—in
Père Lachaise.”
“Why not, if he found a really domestic-looking
corner?”
“He wouldn’t in the first place, it wouldn’t
occur to him, that’s all, and if he did he couldn’t
get away with it. The only real drawback to
this hostelry is, as you know, that they don’t
serve spirits of any kind. I’m accustomed to a
glass or two of wine with my dinner, and my
food sticks in my throat when I can’t have it,
but I’ve found a way around that, now.”
“Oh! have you?” said Nancy.
“Don’t give me away, but there’s a man
about the place here whose name is Michael,
and he possesses that blend of Gallic facility
with Celtic canniness that makes the Irish so
wonderful as a race. I told my trouble to Michael,—with
the result that I get a teapot full
of Chianti with my dinner every night, and no
questions asked.”
“Oh! you do?” gasped Nancy.
“You see Michael is serving the best interests
58
of his employer, who wants to keep her patrons,
because if I couldn’t have it I wouldn’t be there.
He couldn’t trouble the lady about it, naturally,
because it is technically an offense against the
law. Come, let’s go and find a quiet corner
where we can continue our conversation comfortably.
There’s a painfully respectable little
hotel around the corner here that looks like the
Café L’avenue when you first go in, but is a
place where the most bourgeoise of one’s aunts
might put up.”
“I—I don’t know that I can go,” said Nancy.
“There’s no reason why you shouldn’t, you
know. My name is Collier Pratt. I’m an artist.
The more bourgeoise of my aunts would introduce
me if she were here. She’s a New Englander
like so many of your own charming relatives.”
“How did you know that?” Nancy asked, as
she followed him with a docility quite new to
her, past the big green gate, and the row of
nondescript shops between it and the corner
of Broadway.
“I was born in Boston,” Collier Pratt said a
trifle absently. “I know a Massachusetts product
when I see one. Ah! here we are.”
He led her triumphantly to a table in the far
corner of the practically empty restaurant,
waved away the civilities of a swarthy and
somewhat badly coordinated waiter, and pulled
out her chair for her himself.
“Now, let me have a look at you,” he said;
“why, you’ve nothing on but muslin, and you’re
wearing your belt for a turban.”
“A sop to the conventions,” Nancy said,
blushing burningly. She was not quite able yet
to get her bearings with this extraordinary
man, who had assumed charge of her so cavalierly,
but she was eager to find her poise in
the situation. “I ran away, and I thought it
would look better to have something like a
hat on.”
“Looks,” said Collier Pratt, “looks! That’s
New England, always the looks of a thing, never
the feel of it. Mind you I don’t mean the look
of a thing, that’s something different again.”
“Yes, I know, the conventional slant as opposed
to the artistic perspective.”
“Good! It isn’t necessary to have my remarks
followed intelligently, but it always adds
piquancy to the situation when they are.
Speaking of artistic perspective, you have a
60
very nice coloring. I like a ruddy chestnut hair
with a skin as delicately white and pink as
yours.” He spoke impersonally with the narrowing
eye of the artist. “I can see you either
in white,—not quite a cream white, but almost,—against
a pearly kind of Quakerish background,
or flaming out in the most crude,
barbaric assemblage of colors. That’s the advantage
of your type and the environment you
connote—you can be the whole show, or the
veriest little mouse that ever sought the protective
coloring of the shadows.”
“You aren’t exactly taking the quickest way
of putting me at my ease,” Nancy said. “I’m
very much embarrassed, you know. I’d stand
being looked over for a few minutes longer if
I could,—but I can’t. I’m not having one of my
most equable evenings.”
“I beg your pardon,” Collier Pratt said.
For the first time since she had seen his face
with the light upon it, he smiled, and the smile
relieved the rather empiric quality of his habitual
expression. Nancy noticed the straight
line of the heavy brows scarcely interrupted by
the indication of the beginning of the nose, and
wondering to herself if it were not possible
61
for a person with that eyebrow formation to
escape the venality of disposition that is popularly
supposed to be its adjunct,—decided affirmatively.
“I’m not used to talking to American girls
very much. I forget how daintily they’re accustomed
to being handled. I’m extremely anxious
to put you at your ease,” he added quietly.
“I appreciate the privilege of your company on
what promised to be the dullest of dull evenings.
I should appreciate still more,” he bowed,
as he handed her a bill of fare of the journalistic
proportions of the usual hotel menu,
“if you would make a choice of refreshment,
that we may dispense with the somewhat pathological
presence of our young friend here,” he
indicated the waiter afflicted with the jerking
and titubation of a badly strung puppet. “I advise
Rhine wine and seltzer. I offer you anything
from green chartreuse to Scotch and soda.
Personally I’m going to drink Perrier water.”
“I’d rather have an ice-cream,” Nancy said,
“than anything else in the world,—coffee ice-cream,
and a glass of water.”
“I wonder if you would, or if you only think
it’s—safer. At any rate I’m going to put my
62
coat over your shoulders while you eat it. I
never leave my rooms at this hour of the night
without this cape. If I can find a place to sit
out in I always do, and I’m naturally rather
cold-blooded.”
“I’m not,” said Nancy, but she meekly allowed
him to drape her in the folds of the light
cape, and found it grateful to her.
“Bring the lady a big cup of coffee, and mind
you have it hot,” Collier Pratt ordered peremptorily,
as her ice-cream was served by the
shaking waiter. “Coffee may be the worst
thing in the world for you, nervously. I don’t
know,—it isn’t for me, I rather thrive on it, but
at any rate I’m going to save you from the combination
of organdie and ice-cream on a night
like this. What is your name?” he inquired
abruptly.
“Ann Martin.”
“Not at my service?”
“I don’t know, yet.”
“Well, I don’t know,—but I hope and trust
so. I like you. You’ve got something they
don’t have—these American girls,—softness
and strength, too. I imagine you’ve never been
out of America.”
“I—I have.”
“With two other girls and a chaperon, doing
Europe, and staying at all the hotels doped up
for tourist consumption.”
Nancy was constrained to answer with a
smile.
“You don’t like America very much,” she
said presently.
“I like it for itself, but I loathe it—for
myself. My way of living here is all wrong. I
can’t get to bed in this confounded city. I can’t
get enough to eat.”
“Oh! can’t you?” Nancy cried.
“In Paris, or any town where there is a café
life one naturally gets fed. The technique of
living is taken care of much better over there.
Your concierge serves you a nourishing breakfast
as a matter of course. When you’ve done
your morning’s work you go to your favorite
café—not with the one object in life—to cram
a Châteaubriand down your dry and resisting
throat because he who labors must live,—but to
see your friends, to read your daily journals,
to write your letters, and do it incidentally in
the open air while some diplomat of a waiter
serves you with food that assuages the palate,
64
without insulting your mood. That’s what I
like about the little restaurant in the court
there. It’s out-of-doors, and you may stay
there without feeling your table is in requisition
for the next man. It’s a very polite little
place.”
“You didn’t expect to get in there to-night.”
“I had hopes of it. I’ve not dined, you see.”
“Not dined?” Nancy’s eyes widened in dismay.
“There’s no use for me to dine unless I can
eat my food tranquilly, in some accustomed corner.
Getting nourished with me is a spiritual,
as well as a physical matter. It is with all
sensitive people. Don’t you think so?”
“I suppose so. I—I hadn’t thought of it
that way. Couldn’t you eat something now—an
oyster stew, or something like that?”
“Nothing in any way remotely connected with
that. An oyster stew is to me the most barbarous
of concoctions. I loathe hot milk,—an
oyster is an adjunct to a fish sauce, or a
preface to a good dinner.”
“You ought to have something,” Nancy
urged, “even ice-cream is more nourishing than
mineral water, or coffee with cream in it.”
“I like coffee after dinner, not before.”
“If you only eat when it’s convenient, or the
mood takes you,” Nancy cried out in real distress,
“how can you ever be sure that you have
calories enough? The requirement of an average
man at active labor is estimated at over
three thousand calories. You must have something
like a balanced ration in order to do your
work.”
“Must I?” Collier Pratt smiled his rare
smile. “Well, at any rate, it is good to hear you
say so.”
She finished her ice-cream, and Collier Pratt
drank his mineral water slowly, and smoked innumerable
cigarettes of Virginia tobacco. The
conversation which had proceeded so expeditiously
to this point seemed for no apparent
reason, suddenly to become gratuitous. Nancy
had never before begun on the subject of the
balanced ration without being respectfully allowed
to go through to the end. She had not
been allowed to feel snubbed, but she was a little
bewildered that any conversation in which
she was participating, could be so gracefully
stopped before it was ended by her expressed
desire.
Collier Pratt took his watch out of his pocket,
and looked at it hastily.
“By jove,” he said, “I had entirely forgotten.
I have a child in my charge. I must be
about looking after her.”
“A child?” Nancy cried, astonished.
“Yes, a little girl. She’s probably sitting up
for me, poor baby. Can you get home alone,
if I put you on a bus or a street-car?”
“If you’ll call a taxi for me—” Nancy said.
She noticed that the check was paid with
change instead of a bill. In fact, her host
seemed not to have a bill of any denomination
in his pocket, but to be undisturbed by the fact.
He parted from her casually.
“Good-by, child,” he said with his head in the
door after he had given the chauffeur her street
number; “with the permission of le bon Dieu,
we shall see each other again. I feel that He is
going to give it to us.”
“Good-by,” Nancy said to his retreating
shoulder.
At her own front door was Dick’s big Rolls-Royce,
and Dick sitting inside of it, with his
feet comfortably up, feigning sleep.
“You didn’t think I’d go home until I saw
67
you safe inside your own door, did you?” he
demanded.
“Where’s Betty?” Nancy asked mechanically.
“I sent Williams home with her. Then he
came back here, and left the car with me.”
“You needn’t have waited,” Nancy said, “I’m
sorry, Dick, I—I had to have air. I had to get
out. I couldn’t stay inside a minute longer.”
“You need never explain anything to me.”
“Don’t you want to know where I’ve been?”
Dick looked at her carefully before he made
his answer. Then he said firmly.
“No, dear.”
“I might have told you,” she said, “if you had
wanted to know.” She felt her knees sagging
with fatigue, and drooped against the door-frame.
“Come and sit in the car, and talk to me for
a minute,” he suggested. “Do you good, before
you climb the stairs.”
He opened the car door for her ingratiatingly,
but she shook her head.
“I’ve done unconventional things enough for
one evening,” she said. “Unlock the door for
me. Hitty’ll be waiting up to take care of me.”
“What’s that queer thing you’re wearing?”
68
he asked her, as he held the door for her to pass
through, “I never remember seeing you wear
that before.”
Nancy looked down wonderingly at the folds
of the Inverness still swinging from her shoulders.
She had been subconsciously aware of
the grateful warmth in which she was encased
ever since she snuggled comfortably into the
depths of the taxi-cab into which Collier Pratt
had tucked her.
“No, I never have worn it before,” she said,
answering Dick’s question.
The activities of the day at Outside Inn began
with luncheon and the preparation for
it. Nancy longed to serve breakfast there, but
as yet it had not seemed practicable to do so.
Most of the patrons of the restaurant conducted
the business of the day down-town, but
had their actual living quarters in New York’s
remoter fastnesses,—Brooklyn, the Bronx or
Harlem. Nancy was satisfied that the bulk of
her patronage should be the commuting and
cliff dwelling contingent of Manhattanites,—indeed
it was the sort of patronage that from
the beginning she had intended to cater to.
Nancy did most of the marketing herself at
first, but Gaspard—the big cook—gradually
coaxed this privilege away from her.
“You see,” he said, “we sit—us together, and
talk of eating”—he prided himself on his use
of English, and never used his native tongue
to help him out, except in moments of great excitement.
“It is immediately after breakfast.
70
Yes! I am full of milk-coffee sopped with
bread, and you of bacon with eggs and marmalade.
We say, what shall we give to our
custom for its dinner and its luncheon? We
think sadly—we who have but now brushed
away the crumbs of breakfast—of those who
must sit down so soon to the table groaning
with viands. Therefore we say, ‘Market delicately.
Have the soup clear, the entrée light and
the salad green with plenty of vinegar.’ Even
your calories—they do not help us much. They
are in quantities so unexpected in the food that
weighs nothing in the scales. We say you shall
go to market and buy these things, and you go.
I stir and walk about, and grow restless for
my déjeuner, and when you return from market,
hungry too, we are not the same people
who had thought our soup should be clear, and
our entrée more beautiful than nutritious. If
I go to market myself late I am inspired there
to buy what is right, because by that hour I
have a proper relish and understanding of what
all the world should eat.”
“I know he is right,” Nancy said to Billy
afterward in reporting the conversation, “I
hate to admit it, but even my notion of what
71
other people should eat is colored by my own
relation to food. I never realized before how
little use an intellect is in this matter of food
values. I can actually get up a meal that according
to the tables is scientifically correct
that wouldn’t feed anybody if they were hungry.”
“One banana is equal to a pound and three-quarters
of steak,” Billy misquoted helpfully.
“The trouble is that it isn’t,” Nancy said, “except
technically.”
“You can’t eat it and grow thin.”
“You can’t eat it and grow fat unless it happens
to be the peculiar food to which you are
idiosyncratic.”
“If that’s really a word,” Billy said, “I’ll overlook
your trying it out on me. If it isn’t you’ll
have to take the consequences.” He went
through the pantomime of one preparing to do
physical violence.
“Oh! it’s a word. Ask Caroline.” Nancy’s
eyes still held their look of being focussed on
something in the remote distance. “The trouble
with all this dietetic problem is that the individual
is dependent on something more than
an adjustment of values. His environment and
72
his heredity play an active part in his diet
problem. Some people can eat highly concentrated
food, others have to have bulk, and so
on. You can’t substitute cheese and bananas
for steak and do the race a service no matter
what the cost of steak may soar to. You can’t
even substitute rice for potatoes.”
“Not unless your patronage is more Oriental
than Celtic.”
“Healthy people have to have honest fare of
about the type to which their environment has
accustomed them, but intelligently supervised,—that’s
the conclusion I’ve come to.”
“You may be right,” Billy said, “my general
notion has always been that everybody ate
wrong, and that everybody who would stand
for it ought to be started all over again. I
wouldn’t stand for it, so I’ve never looked into
the matter.”
“People don’t eat wrong, that’s the really
startling discovery I’ve made recently. I mean
healthy people don’t.”
“I don’t believe it,” said Billy; “the way people
eat is one of the most outrageous of the
human scandals. I read the newspapers.”
“The newspapers don’t know,” Nancy said;
73
“the individual usually has an instinctive working
knowledge of the diet that is good for him,
and his digestional experiences have taught him
how to regulate it to some extent.”
“How do you account for the clerk that orders
coffee and sinkers at Child’s every day?”
“That’s exactly it,” Nancy said. “He knows
that he needs bulk and stimulation. He’s handicapped
by his poverty, but he gets the nearest
substitute for the diet that suits him that he
can get. If he could afford it he would have a
square meal that would nourish him as well as
warm and fill him.”
“I don’t see but what this interesting theory
lets you out altogether. Why Outside Inn, with
its foxy table d’hôte, if what’s one man’s meat
is another man’s poison, and natural selection
is the order of the day?”
“Outside Inn is all the more necessary to the
welfare of a nation that’s being starved out by
the high cost of living. All I need to do is to
have a little more variety, to have all the nutritive
requirements in each meal, and such
generous servings that every patron can make
out a meal satisfying to himself.”
“Everybody knows that all fat people eat all
74
the sweets that they can get, and all thin people
take tea without sugar with lemon in it.”
“These people aren’t healthy. That’s where
the intelligent supervision comes in.”
“What do you intend to do about them?”
“Watch over them a little more carefully.
Regulate their servings craftily. Be sure of
my tables. I have lots of schemes. I’ll tell you
about them sometime.”
“Sometime,—for this relief much thanks,”
murmured Billy; “just now I’ve had as much
of these matters as I can stand. I don’t see how
you are going to run this thing on a profit,
though.”
“I’m not,” Nancy said, “I’m losing money
every minute. That fifteen thousand dollars is
almost gone now, of course. Billy, do you think
it would be perfectly awful if I didn’t try to
make money at all?”
“I think it would be a good deal wiser. I’ll
raise all the money you want on your expectations.”
“All right then. I’m not going to worry.”
Billy looked down into the courtyard from
the room up-stairs in which they had been talking.
Already the preparations for lunch were
75
under way. The girls were moving deftly
about, laying cloths and arranging flower vases
and silver.
“Can I get right down there and sit down at
one of those tables and have my lunch,” Billy
inquired, “or do I have to go out of the back
door and come in the front like a regular customer?”
“Whichever you prefer. There’s Caroline
coming in at the gate now.”
“Well, then, I know which I prefer,” Billy
said, swimming realistically toward the stairs.
“You are getting fat, Billy,” Caroline informed
him critically after the amenities were
over, and the meal appropriately begun. “You
ought to watch your diet a little more carefully.”
“No,” Billy said firmly, “I don’t need to watch
my diet, I’m perfectly healthy, and therefore
my natural cravings will point the way to my
most judicious nourishment. Nancy has explained
all to me.”
“That’s a very interesting theory of
Nancy’s,” Caroline said, “but I don’t altogether
agree with it.”
“I do,” said Billy, then he added hastily, “but
76
I agree with you, too, Caroline. You are to
all other women what moonlight is to sunlight,
or I mean—what sunlight is to moonlight. In
other words—you are the goods.”
“Don’t be silly, Billy.”
“There’s only one thing in all this wide universe
that you can’t say to me, Caroline, and
‘don’t be silly, Billy,’ is that thing,—express
this same thing in vers libre if you must say
it! Look at the handsome soup you’re getting.
What is the name of that soup, Molly?”
He smiled ingratiatingly at the little waitress,
who always beamed at any one of Nancy’s
particular friends that came into the restaurant,
and made a point of serving them if she
could possibly arrange it.
“Cream of spinach,” she said, “it’s a special
to-day.”
“Beautiful soup so rich and green,” Billy began
in a soulful baritone, “waiting in a hot
tureen. Where’s mine, Molly?”
“Dolly’s bringing your first course, sir.”
Billy gazed in perplexity at the half of a delicious
grapefruit set before him by the duplicate
of the pretty girl who stood smiling deprecatingly
behind Caroline’s chair.
“Where’s my soup, Dolly?” Billy asked with
a thundering sternness of manner.
“I’m sorry, sir,” Dolly began glibly, “but the
soup has given out. Will you be good enough
to allow the substitution of—”
“That’s a formula,” Billy said. “The soup
can’t be out. We’re the first people in the dining-room.
Go tell Miss Nancy that I will be
served with some of that green soup at once, or
know the reason why.”
The two waitresses exchanged glances, and
went off together suppressing giggles, to return
almost immediately, their risibility still causing
them great physical inconvenience.
“Intelligent supervision, she says.” Dolly
exploded into the miniature patch of muslin
and ribbon that served her as an apron.
“She says that’s the reason why,” Molly contributed,—following
her sister’s example.
“Nancy doesn’t serve soup to a fat man if she
can possibly avoid it. That’s part of her theory,”
Caroline explained. “There’s no use making a
fuss about it, because you won’t get it.”
Billy sat looking at his grapefruit for some
seconds in silence. Then he began on it slowly.
“Well, I’ll be damned,” he said.
Nancy was learning a great many things
very rapidly. The practical application of her
theories of feeding mankind to her actual experiments
with the shifting population of New
York, revolutionized her attitude toward the
problem almost daily. She had started in with
a great many ideas and ideals of service, with
preconceived notions of balanced rations, and
exact distribution of fuel stuffs to the human
unit. She had come to realize very shortly, that
the human unit was a quantity as incalculable
in its relation to its digestive problems as its
psychological ones. She had believed vaguely
that in reference to food values the race made
its great exception to its rule of working out
toward normality; but she changed that opinion
very quickly as she watched her fellow men
selecting their diet with as sure an instinct for
their nutritive requirements as if she had
coached them personally for years.
From the assumption that she lived in a
world gone dietetically mad, and hence in the
process of destroying itself, she had gradually
come to see that in this phase of his struggle
for existence, as well as in every other, the instinct
of man operated automatically in the direction
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of his salvation. This new attitude in
tie matter relieved her of much of her responsibility,
but left her not less anxious to do what
she could for her kind in the matter of calories.
She was, as she had shown in her treatment of
Billy, not entirely blinded by her growing predilection
in favor of the doctrine of natural
selection.
Every day she had Gaspard make, in addition
to his regular table d’hôte menu, dozens of
nutritive custards, quarts of stimulating broths
and jellies and other dishes containing the maximum
of easily digested and highly concentrated
nutriment, and these she managed to
have Molly or Dolly or even Hildeguard—the
Alma Tadema girl—introduce into the luncheon
or dinner service in the case of those patrons
who seemed to need peculiarly careful nourishing.
Let a white-faced girl sink into a seat
within the range of Nancy’s vision,—she always
ensconced herself in the doorway screened
with vines at the beginning of a meal,—and she
gave orders at once for the crafty substitution
of invalid broth for soup, of rich nut bread for
the ordinary rolls and crackers, of custards or
specially made ice-cream for the dessert of the
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day. No overfed, pasty-faced man ever escaped
from Outside Inn until an attempt at
least had been made to introduce a portion of
stewed prunes into his diet; and all such were
fed the minimum of bread and other starchy
foods, and the maximum of salad and green
vegetables. Nancy had gluten bread made in
quantities for the stouter element of her patronage,
and in nine cases out of ten she was
able to get it served and eaten without protest.
Some of her regular patrons began to change
weight gradually, a heavy man or two became
less heavy, and a wraithlike girl now and then
took on a new bloom and substantiality. These
were the triumphs for which Nancy lived. Her
only regret was that she was not able to give
to each her personal time and attention, and establish
herself on a footing with her patrons
where she might learn from their own lips the
secrets of their metabolism.
She was not known as the proprietor of the
place. In fact, the management of the restaurant
was kept a careful secret from those who
frequented it and with the habitual indifference
of New Yorkers to the power behind the throne,
so long as its affairs were manipulated in good
81
and regular order, they soon ceased to feel any
apparent curiosity about it. Betty, who sometimes
rebelled at remaining so scrupulously incognita,
defiantly took the limelight at intervals
and moved among the assembled guests with an
authoritative and possessive air, adjusting and
rearranging small details, and acknowledging
the presence of habitués, but since her attentions
were popularly supposed to be those of a
superior head waitress, she soon tired of the
gesture of offering them.
Nancy’s intention had been to allow the restaurant
to speak for itself, and then at the climactic
moment to allow her connection with it
to be discovered, and to speak for it with all
the force and earnestness of which she was
capable. She had meant to stand sponsor for
the practical working theory on which her experiment
was based, and she had already partially
formulated interviews with herself in
which she modestly acknowledged the success
of that experiment, but the untoward direction
in which it was developing made such a revelation
inexpedient.
There was one regular patron to whom she
was peculiarly anxious to remain incognita.
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Collier Pratt made it his almost invariable
habit to come sauntering toward the table in
the corner, under the life-sized effigy of the Vênus
de Medici, at seven o’clock in the evening,
and that table was scrupulously reserved for
him. To it were sent the choicest of all the
viands that Outside Inn could command. Michael
was tacitly sped on his way with his teapot
full of claret. Gaspard did amazing things
with the breasts of ducks and segments of
orange, with squab chicken stuffed with new
corn, with filets de sole a la Marguery. Nancy
craftily spurred him on to his most ambitious
achievements under pretense of wishing her
own appetite stimulated, and the big cook, who
adored her, produced triumph after triumph
of his art for her delectation, whereupon the
biggest part of it was cunningly smuggled out
to the artist. From behind her screen of vines
Nancy watched the fine features of her quondam
friend light with the rapture of the gourmet
as be sampled Gaspard’s sauce verte or
Hollandaise or lifted the glass cover from the
mushrooms sous cloche and inhaled their delicate
aroma.
“I wonder if he finds our food very American
83
in character, now,” she said to herself,
with a blush at the memory of the real southern
cornbread and candied sweet potatoes that were
offered him in the initial weeks of his patronage.
Gaspard still made these delicacies for
luncheon, but they had been almost entirely
banished from the dinner menu. Afternoon
tea at the Inn was famous for the wonderful
waffles produced with Parisian precision from
a traditional Virginian recipe, but Collier Pratt
never appeared at either of these meals to criticize
them for being American.
One night during the latter part of July
Betty had a birthday, and according to
immemorial custom Caroline and Nancy and
Dick and Billy helped her to celebrate it at one
of the old-fashioned down-town hotels where
they had ordered practically the same dinner
for her anniversaries ever since they had been
grown up enough to celebrate them unchaperoned.
Caroline’s brother, Preston, had made
a sixth member of the party for the first two or
three years, but he had been located in London
since then, in charge of the English office of his
firm, to which he had been suddenly appointed
a month after he and Betty, who had been
sweethearts, had had a spectacular quarrel.
Nancy stayed by the celebration until about
half past nine, and then Dick put her into a
taxi-cab, and she fled back to her responsibilities
as mistress of Outside Inn, agreeing to
meet the others later for the rounding out of
the evening. As she drew up before the big
85
gate the courtyard seemed practically deserted.
The waitresses were busy clearing away the
few cluttered tables left by the last late guests,
and in one sheltered corner a man and a girl
were frankly holding hands across the table,
while they whispered earnestly of some impending
parting. The big canopy of striped awning
cloth had been drawn over the tables, as the
rather heavy air of the evening bad been punctured
occasionally by a swift scattering of rain.
Nancy was half-way across the court before she
realized that Collier Pratt was still occupying
his accustomed seat under the shadow of the
big Venus. She had not seen him face to face
or communicated with him since the day she
had looked him up in the telephone book and
sent his cape to him by special messenger. She
stopped involuntarily as she reached his side,
and he looked up and smiled as he recognized
her.
“You’re late again, Miss Ann Martin,” he
said, rising and pulling out a chair for her opposite
his own. “I think perhaps I can pull the
wires and procure you some sustenance if you
will say the word.”
“I’ve no word to say,” Nancy said, “but how
86
do you do? I’ve just dined elsewhere. I only
stopped in here for a moment to get something—something
I left here at lunch.”
“In that case I’ll offer you a drop of Michael’s
tea in my water glass.” He poured a tablespoonful
or so of claret from the teapot into
the glass of ice-water before him, and added
several lumps of sugar to the concoction, which
he stirred gravely for some time before he offered
it to her. “I never touch water myself.
This is eau rougie as the French children drink
it. It’s really better for you than ice-cream and
a glass of water.”
“And less American,” Nancy murmured with
her eyes down.
“And less American,” he acquiesced blandly.
Nancy sipped her drink, and Collier Pratt
stirred the dregs in his coffee cup—Nancy had
overheard some of her patrons remarking on
the curious habits of a man who consumed a
pot of tea and a pot of coffee at one and the
same meal—and they regarded each other for
some time in silence. Michael and Hildeguard,
Molly and Dolly and two others of the staff of
girls were grouped in the doorway exactly in
Nancy’s range of vision, and whispering to one
87
another excitedly concerning the phenomenon
that met their eyes.
“The little girl?” Nancy said, trying to ignore
the composite scrutiny to which she was being
subjected, by turning determinedly to her companion,
“the little girl that you spoke of—is she
well?”
“She’s as well as a motherless baby could
be, subjected to the irregularities of a life like
mine. Still she seems to thrive on it.”
“Is she yours?” Nancy asked.
“Yes, she’s mine,” Collier Pratt said, gravely
dismissing the subject, and leaving Nancy half
ashamed of her boldness in putting the question,
half possessed of a madness to know the
answer at any cost.
“I’ve discovered something very interesting,”
Collier Pratt said, after an interval in which
Nancy felt that he was perfectly cognizant of
her struggle with her curiosity; “in fact, it’s
one of the most interesting discoveries that I
have made in the course of a not unadventurous
life. Do you come to this restaurant often?”
“Quite often,” Nancy equivocated, “earlier in
the day. For luncheon and for tea.”
“I come here almost every night of my life,”
88
Collier Pratt declared, “and I intend to continue
to come so long as le bon Dieu spares me my
health and my epicurean taste. You know that
I spoke of the food here before. The character
of it has changed entirely. It’s unmistakably
French now, not to say Parisian. Outside of
Paris or Vienna I have never tasted such soups,
such sauce, such delicate and suggestive flavors.
My entire existence has been revolutionized by
the experience. I am no longer the lonely and
unhappy man you discovered at this gate a
short month ago. I can not cavil at an America
that furnishes me with such food as I get in
this place.
“Man may live without friends, and may live without books.
But civilized man can not live without cooks,”
Nancy quoted sententiously.
“Exactly. The whole point is that the cooking
here is civilized. Oh! you ought to come
here to dinner, my friend. I don’t know what
the luncheons and teas are like—”
“They’re very good,” Nancy said.
“But not like the dinners, I’ll wager. The
dinners are the very last word! I don’t know
89
why this place isn’t famous. Of course, I do
my best to keep it a secret from the artistic
rabble I know. It would be overrun with them
in a week, and its character utterly ruined.”
“I wonder if it would.”
“Oh! I’m sure of it.”
“What is your discovery?” Nancy asked.
Collier Pratt leaned dramatically closer to
her, and Nancy instinctively bent forward
across the tiny table until her face was very
near to his.
“Do you know anything about the price of
foodstuffs?” he demanded.
“A little,” Nancy admitted.
“You know then that the price of every commodity
has soared unthinkably high, that the
mere problem of providing the ordinary commonplace
meal at the ordinary commonplace
restaurant has become almost unsolvable to the
proprietors? Most of the eating places in New
York are run at a loss, while the management
is marking time and praying for a change in
conditions. Well, here we have a restaurant
opening at the most crucial period in the history
of such enterprises, offering its patrons
the delicacies of the season most exquisitely
90
cooked, at what is practically the minimum
price for a respectable meal.”
“That’s true, isn’t it?”
“More than that, there are people who come
here, who order one thing and get another, and
the thing they get is always a much more elaborate
and extravagant dish than the one they
asked for. I’ve seen that happen again and
again.”
“Have you?” Nancy asked faintly, shrinking
a little beneath the intentness of his look. “How—how
do you account for it?”
“There’s only one way to account for it.”
“Do you think that there is an—an unlimited
amount of capital behind it?”
“I think that goes without saying,” he said;
“there must be an unlimited amount of capital
behind it, or it wouldn’t continue to flourish
like a green bay tree; but that’s not in the nature
of a discovery. Anybody with any power
of observation at all would have come to that
conclusion long since.”
“Then, what is it you have found out?”
Nancy asked, quaking.
“My discovery is—” Collier Pratt paused for
the whole effect of his revelation to penetrate
91
to her consciousness, “that this whole outfit is
run philanthropically.”
“Philanthropically?”
“Don’t you see? There can’t be any other
explanation of it. It’s an eleemosynary institution.
That’s what it is.”
Nancy met his expectant eyes with a trifle
of wildness in her own, but he continued to
hold her gaze triumphantly.
“Don’t you see,” he repeated, “doesn’t everything
point to that as the only possible explanation?
It’s some rich woman’s plaything. That
accounts for the food, the setting,—everything
in fact that has puzzled us. Amateur,—that’s
the word; effective, delightful but inexperienced.
It sticks out all over the place.”
“The food isn’t amateur,” Nancy said, a little
resentfully.
“Nothing is amateur but the spirit behind it,
through which we profit. Don’t you see?”
“I’m beginning to see,” Nancy admitted,
“perhaps you are right. I guess the place is
run philanthropically. I—I hadn’t quite realized
it before.”
“What did you think?”
“I knew that the—one who was running it
92
wasn’t quite sure where she was coming out,
but I didn’t think of it is an eleemosynary institution.”
“Of course, it is.”
“It’s an unscrupulous sort of charity, then,”
Nancy mused, “if it’s masquerading as self-respecting
and self-supporting. I—I’ve never approved
of things like that.”
“Why quarrel with a scheme so beneficent?”
“Don’t you care?” Nancy asked with a catch
in her voice that was very like an appeal.
He shook his head.
“Why should I?” he smiled.
“Then I don’t care, either,” she decided with
an emphasis that was entirely lost on the man
on the other side of the table.